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May 18, 2019 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

‘Īao

Some might feel the point of establishing a State Monument at ‘Īao Valley is to call attention to the much-photographed ‘Īao Needle – it was traditionally known as Kūkaemoku (literally ‘broken excreta.’)

The 1,200-foot-tall ‘Īao Needle (“cloud supreme”) is a basaltic core that remained after the valley’s heavy rainfall washed away the weaker stones surrounding it.

Actually, what people see is a bump on a side-ridge on the right-side of ʻIao Valley with a large protrusion that sticks up on top; it looks like a ‘needle’ of rock, but really isn’t (it’s part of the ridge).

Rainfall from Pu‘u Kukui, the summit of West Maui – at nearly 5,800-feet in the back of ‘Īao Valley, has an average annual rainfall of 364-inches per year.

Of course, this natural feature is interesting and important; but here are some other pieces of history that make ‘Īao even more important in the history of Hawai‘i.

First, the distance past.

From the highest peak of Pu‘u Kukui to the shoreline of Kahului Bay, the ahupua‘a (land division) of Wailuku was a favorite place of Ali‘i and a ruling center of Maui. ‘Īao Valley is part of the ahupua‘a.

For centuries, high chiefs and navigators from across the archipelago were buried in secret, difficult-to-access sites in the valley’s steep walls.

‘Iao Valley became a “hallowed burying place for ancient chiefs” and is the first place mentioned in the historical legends as a place for the secret burials of high chiefs. (Thrum)

Because this was sacred ground, commoners were not permitted to enter the valley, except for the Makahiki festival.

Some suggest the last burial was in 1736, with the burial of King Kekaulike.

Then, in the late-1780s into 1790, Kamehameha conquered the Island of Hawai‘i and was pursuing conquest of Maui and eventually sought conquer the rest of the archipelago.

At that time, Maui’s King Kahekili and his eldest son and heir-apparent, Kalanikūpule, were carrying on war and conquered O‘ahu.

In 1790, Kamehameha travelled to Maui. Hearing this, Kahekili sent Kalanikūpule back to Maui with a number of chiefs (Kahekili remaining on O‘ahu to maintain order of his newly conquered kingdom.)

After a battle in Hana, Kamehameha landed at Kahului and then marched on to Wailuku, where Kalanikūpule waited for him.

The ensuing battle was one of the hardest contested on Hawaiian record. The battle started in Wailuku and then headed up ‘l̄ao Valley – the Maui defenders being continually driven farther up the valley.

Kamehameha’s superiority in the number and use of the newly acquired weapons and canon (called Lopaka) from the ‘Fair American’ (used for the first time in battle, with the assistance from John Young and Isaac Davis) finally won the decisive battle at ‘Īao Valley.

Arguably, the cannon and people who knew how to effectively use it were the pivotal factors in the battle. Had the fighting been in the usual style of hand-to-hand combat, the forces would have likely been equally matched.

The Maui troops were completely annihilated, and it is said that the corpses of the slain were so many as to choke up the waters of the stream of ‘l̄ao – one of the names of the battle was “Kepaniwai” (the damming of the waters.)

Maui Island was conquered and its fighting force was destroyed – Kalanikūpule and some other chiefs escaped over the mountain at the back of the valley and made their way to O‘ahu (to later face Kamehameha, again; the next time at the Battle of Nu‘uanu in 1795.)

After the battle at ‘Iao, Kamehameha received Keōpūolani as his wife. Kamehameha left for Moloka‘i to secure it under his control, before proceeding to O‘ahu.

Then, in 1795, Kamehameha moved on in his conquest of O‘ahu.

Today, ‘Iao Valley State Monument is operated under DLNR’s State Parks system. It is at the end of ‘Iao Valley Road (Highway 32.) Free parking for Hawai‘i residents, $5 per car for others (open 7 am to 7 pm.)

A paved walking trail provides a scenic viewpoint of Kuka’emoku; a short paved loop trail meanders through an ethnobotanical garden adjacent to ‘Iao stream.

“‘lao stands without rival, as the loveliest spot in these tropical isles placed in the midsummer sea, or as Mark Twain has lovingly called it, ‘The loveliest fleet of islands that lie anchored in any Ocean’ …”

“… for seek throughout the four corners of the lands of the Kamehamehas, you will never find a place with such incomparable environment of lofty peaks, giant lehua trees, with blossoms of rosy hues glistening in the glare of the noonday sun, and deep canyons through which the mighty waters run down, as here in lao.” (Field)

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Iao Valley from Wailuku-1900s
Iao Valley from Wailuku-1900s
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Filed Under: Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance, Hawaiian Traditions, Place Names Tagged With: Keopuolani, John Young, Kamehameha, Kalanikupule, Hawaii, Isaac Davis, Maui, Iao Valley, Kepaniwai

April 30, 2019 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Hawaiian Dynasties

The Kamehameha Dynasty ruled for nearly a century from the late-1700s to the late-1800s, while the Kalākaua Dynasty ruled from 1874 to 1893.

Kamehameha Dynasty

Kamehameha I, Paiʻea, Kamehameha the Great (1758-1819)
Born in North Kohala on the Big Island, Kamehameha united all the major islands under one rule in 1810.

The king traded with foreign ships arriving in the islands and enlisted some of the foreigners into his service. During his reign, the export of sandalwood to the Orient brought about the ability for island chiefs to purchase merchandise from abroad.

Kamehameha II, Liholiho – (1796-1824)
The son of Kamehameha and his sacred wife Keōpūolani, Liholiho overthrew the ancient kapu system by allowing men and women of the court to eat at the same table. At the same time, he announced that the heiau (temples) should be destroyed with all the old idols.

Believing like his father that the islands were under the protection of Great Britain, Liholiho and his favorite wife Kamamalu traveled to England in May of 1824, where they were received by the government of King George IV. However, measles afflicted the royal party and Kamāmalu died on July 8 followed by Liholiho on July 14, 1824.

Kamehameha III, Kauikeaouli (1813-1854)
The younger brother of Liholiho had the longest reign in Hawaiian history. He was 10 years old when he was proclaimed king in 1825 under a regency with Ka‘ahumanu, his father’s favorite queen, as joint ruler.

Realizing the need for written laws to control growing problems brought about by increasing numbers of foreigners settling in the kingdom, the declaration of rights, called the Hawaiian Magna Charta, was issued on June 7, 1839. The rights of residents were repeated in the Constitution of 1840.

The Great Mahele (division), the first legal basis for land ownership in the kingdom, was enacted and divided the land between the king, his chiefs and others.

Kamehameha IV, Alexander Liholiho (1834-1863)
The nephew of Kauikeaouli, Alexander Liholiho was the son of Kekūanāoʻa and his wife Kīna‘u, the grandson of Kamehameha I, younger brother of Lot Kapuāiwa and elder brother of Victoria Kamāmalu.

He ascended to the throne after the death of his uncle in December of 1854. On June 19, 1856, he married Emma Rooke.

Concerned about the toll that foreign diseases were taking on his subjects, the king signed a law on April 20, 1859 that established a hospital in Honolulu for sick and destitute Hawaiians. He and Emma personally solicited funds to erect Queen’s Hospital, named in honor of Emma.

Kamehameha V, Lot Kapuāiwa (1830-1872)
Four years older than his brother Kamehameha IV, Lot would also rule for just nine years. In 1864, when it appeared that a new constitution could not be agreed upon, he declared that the Constitution of 1852 be replaced by one he had written himself.

Known as “the bachelor king,” Lot Kamehameha did not name a successor, which led to the invoking of the constitutional provision for electing kings of Hawai`i.

William Charles Lunalilo (1835-1874)
The grandson of a half-brother of Kamehameha I, Lunalilo was the son of Charles Kanaina and Kekauluohi, a sister of Kīnaʻu.

He defeated David Kalākaua in 1873 to become the first king to be elected (therefore, technically, not a part of the Kamehameha Dynasty, although he was related.) He offered many amendments to the Constitution of 1864, such as abolishing the property qualifications for voting.

Lunalilo died of tuberculosis on February 3, 1874, a little more than a year after his election. He became the first Hawaiian to leave his property to a work of charity, creating the Lunalilo Home, which accommodates elderly Hawaiians who are poor, destitute and infirm.

Kalākaua Dynasty

David Kalākaua (1836-1891)
After the death of Lunalilo, Kalākaua (married to Kapiʻolani) ran against and defeated the queen dowager, Emma. Kalākaua was the first king in history to visit the United States.

“The Merry Monarch” was fond of old Hawaiian customs, and he attempted to restore the people’s lost heritage – such actions gave rise to anti-monarchy movements, such as the Reform Party.

In 1887, Kalākaua signed the “Bayonet Constitution,” (signed under threat of an armed uprising) that stripped the king of most of his power and gave foreigners the right to vote. Kalākaua died while on a trip to San Francisco on January 20, 1891, leaving his younger sister Liliuokalani to ascend the throne.

Queen Lili‘uokalani, Lydia Kamakaʻeha Pākī (1839-1917)
Liliʻuokalani (married to John Owen Dominis and living at his mother’s home, Washington Place) inherited the throne from her brother, King Kalākaua, on January 29, 1891.

Two years later, a group composed of Hawaiian Nationals, Americans and Europeans formed a Committee of Safety seeking to overthrow the Hawaiian Kingdom, depose the Queen and seek annexation to the United States; the Queen was deposed on January 17, 1893.

Queen Lili‘uokalani flew the US flag over her personal residence, Washington Place, in 1917 to mourn and honor Hawaiians killed in World War I.

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Collage of Kamehameha and Kalakaua dynasties-HSA
Collage of Kamehameha and Kalakaua dynasties-HSA
Collage of images of Kamehameha and Kalakaua dynasties-HSA
Collage of images of Kamehameha and Kalakaua dynasties-HSA

Filed Under: Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance Tagged With: Kamehameha V, Queen Emma, Kaahumanu, Kauikeaouli, Kamehameha III, Keopuolani, Hawaii, Kamamalu, Queen Liliuokalani, Kalama, Kalakaua, Liholiho, Kapiolani, Kamehameha II, Lunalilo, Kamehameha, Kamehameha IV

April 13, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kalolopahū

For a period of five years from the time of Cook’s landing at Hawai‘i, the waters of the islands were busy with ships, some of which were “friendly” and others that were “bent on destroying men and governments”. (Kamakau)

In 1789, Simon Metcalf (captaining the Eleanora) and his son Thomas Metcalf (captaining the Fair American) were traders; their plan was to meet and spend winter in the Hawaiian Islands.

The Eleanora arrived in the islands first at Kohala on the island of Hawaiʻi. After a confrontation with a local chief, Metcalf then sailed to the neighboring island of Maui to trade along the coast. On February 1790, the Eleanora anchored off of Honua‘ula.

Kalola, the widow of Kalani‘ōpu‘u, was staying at Honua‘ula at the time of the arrival of the ship with her new husband Ka‘opuiki.

Captain Simon Metcalf anchored his trading ship the Eleanora off shore, probably at Makena Bay, to barter for necessary provisions.

“Ka‘opuiki was glad to go on board to trade for iron, muskets, and red cloth; but muskets were the objects he most desired. The people brought in exchange hogs, chickens, potatoes, bananas, and taro.”

“Night fell before they had finished their bargaining, and the next day Ka‘opuiki and others went out again to trade further; but the strangers were unfriendly and beat them off with ropes.”

“When Ka‘opuiki heard from the people of Honua‘ula about the small boat which it was customary to keep tied to the back of the ship, he determined to steal the boat at night.”

“At midnight when the guard on the skiff and the men of the ship were sound asleep, Ka‘opuiki and his men cut the rope without being seen from the ship. As they were towing it along, the guard awoke and called out to those on board the ship, but he was too far away to be heard; he was killed and his body thrown into the sea.”

“The boat was taken to Olowalu and broken up, and the iron taken for fishhooks, adzes, drills, daggers, and spear points.” (Kamakau)

Metcalf sailed to Olowalu but found that boat had been broken up for its nails. (Nails were treasured like gems in ancient Hawaiʻi; they were used for fishhooks, adzes, drills, daggers and spear points.)

Chiefess Kalola, knowing the explosive nature of the situation, declared a three-day kapu on all canoes approaching the Eleanora.

When the kapu was lifted and Kalola’s husband Ka‘opuiki returned only the stolen boat’s keel and the watchman’s stripped thighbones, an enraged Metcalfe invited the villagers to meet the ship, indicating he wanted to trade with them.

However, he had all the cannons loaded and ready on the side where he directed the canoes to approach. “(T)he ship opened fire and shot the people down without mercy, just as if they were creatures without souls. Even those who swam away were shot down.”

“John Young was an eyewitness on board the ship and has testified to the great number who were killed at this time. At noon that day the Eleanor sailed, and the people went out and brought the dead ashore, some diving down into the sea with ropes and others using hooks; and the dead were heaped on the sands at Olowalu.”

“Because the brains of many were oozing out where they had been shot in the head, this battle with the ship Eleanor and her captain was called “The spilled brains” (Kalolo-pahu).”

“It was a sickening sight, as Mahulu and others have reported it; the slaughtered dead were heaped upon the sand; wives, children, parents, and friends came to view and mourn over their dead; and the sound of loud wailing arose.” (Kamakau)

After the massacre, Metcalfe weighed anchor and sailed back to the island of Hawai’i.

This tragedy, termed the Olowalu Massacre, set into motion a series of events which left two Western seamen and a ship (the Fair American) in the hands of the ambitious Big Island chief Kamehameha.

John Young (off the Eleanora) and Isaac Davis (off the Fair American) befriended Kamehameha I and became respected translators and his close and trusted advisors. They were instrumental in Kamehameha’s military ventures and his ultimate triumph in the race to unite the Hawaiian Islands.

Several months after the massacre at Olowalu, Kalola watched the Great Battle of Kepaniwai from ʻIao Valley. Kamehameha stormed Maui with over twenty thousand men, and after several battles Maui troops retreated to ʻIao Valley.

Kalola escaped through the Olowalu Pass and down to Olowalu, where she boarded canoes for Molokai. On the island of Molokai Kalola became ill and they could not carry out their original intention of going to Oahu to join Kahekili.

Kamehameha followed Kalola to Molokai and asked Kalola for Keōpūolani (Kalola’s granddaughter) to be his queen. Kalola, who was dying, agreed to give Kamehameha Keōpūolani and her mother Kekuiʻapoiwa Liliha, if he would allow the girls to stay at her death bed until she passed.

Kamehameha camped on Molokai until Kalola died, and then returned to Kona with his high queen Keōpūolani. Later, both Liholiho (Kamehameha II) and Kauikeaouli (Kamehameha III) were sons born to Kamehameha and Keōpūolani.

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Filed Under: Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance, Prominent People, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks Tagged With: Keopuolani, John Young, Fair American, Simon Metcalf, Hawaii, Isaac Davis, Kamehameha, Maui, Liholiho, Kauikeaouli, Kepaniwai

May 12, 2018 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Death of Kekaulike

Maui’s King Kekaulike descended from Pi‘ilani (‘ascent to heaven’). The kings of Maui consolidated their strength, built up their armies and created a nation strong enough to threaten at times even the might of the powerful kings of Hawai‘i.

King Kekaulike and his children built an empire that enjoyed levels of power and prestige greater than any other royal family up until that point.

“Tradition speaks of Kekaulike’s return to Maui after a raid in Kohala, Hawaii, and while in Mokulau, Kaupo, Maui, Kekaulike was preparing for another raid on Waipio and Hāmākua.”

“He was suddenly stricken with fits or huki. Thus was derived the name of the High Chiefess Kamakahukilani. Kahunas or doctors were summoned to attend the sick King. In consultation they decided he could not be cured.”

“On the King learning his case was hopeless he summoned the High Chiefs, Ministers of State, and Counsellors to his presence, and declared his son Kamehamehanui (uncle to Kamehameha I) to be his successor.”

“The latter, a Prince of the royal house of Maui through his father Kekaulike, and also of the royal house of Hawaii through his mother Kekuiapoiwanui, the daughter of Keaweikekahialiiokamoku, King of Hawaii, and the tabued Queen Kalanikauleleiaiwi.”

“After this declaration, word was brought to the King that Alapainui was in Kohala, Hawaii, preparing to come to war with Maui.
When Kekaulike heard this, he immediately ordered his fleet of war canoes ‘Keakamilo’ and set sail for Wailuku. His wives, his children, high chiefs, ministers of state and counsellors accompanied him.”

“Others of his retinue traveled overland to a place called Kapaahu, where the King’s canoes landed at the cave of Aihakoko in Kula.”

“The chiefs then prepared a manele or palanquin to carry the sick King overland and at a place called Kalekii the King expired, which happened in 1736.”

“The High Chiefs being in fear of Alapainui coming to do battle with them, immediately performed the sacred ceremonies of Waimaihoehoe due their sovereign and decided to take the royal remains to ‘lao.”

“They again embarked, landing at Kapoli in Ma‘alaea, thence to Pu‘uhele, along the route relays of high chiefs bearing the remains of their beloved sovereign to Kihahale …”

“… at Ahuwahine they rested, thence to Loiloa, where the royal remains were placed in Kapela Kapu o Kakae, the sacred sepulchre of the sovereigns and the blue blood of Maui’s nobility. (Lucy Kalanikiekie Henriques)

“‘lao is the famous secret cave of (the island of) Maui. It is at Olopio close to the side of the burial place of Kaka’e and Kalahiki (‘Kalakahi’ in original).”

“The main entrance is said to be under water, the second opening on a steep precipice on the left [hema] side. This was the famous cave in the old days.”

“There were (laid) all the ruling chiefs who had mana and strength, and the kupua, and all those attached to the ruling chiefs who were famous for their marvelous achievements.”

“There were several hundred in all who were buried there. The first of all the well-known chiefs to enter the famous cave of ‘lao was Kapawa, a famous chief of Waialua, O‘ahu, and the last was Kalanikuikahonoikamoku (The-chief-standing-on-the-peak-of-the-island).”

“In the year 1736 the last of them died and no one now alive knows (the entrance to) the secret cave of lao.” (Kamakau; Tengan)

In the late-1780s, into 1790, Kamehameha I conquered the Island of Hawai‘i and was pursuing conquest of Maui and eventually sought conquer the rest of the archipelago.

In the early-1790s, Maui’s King Kahekili (son of Kekaulike) and his eldest son and heir-apparent, Kalanikūpule, were carrying on war and conquered Kahahana, ruler of O‘ahu.

By the time Kamehameha the Great set about unifying the Hawaiian Islands, members of the Kekaulike Dynasty were already ruling Maui, Molokai, Lāna‘i , O‘ahu, Kauai and Ni‘ihau.

In 1790, Kamehameha travelled to Maui. Hearing this, Kahekili sent Kalanikūpule back to Maui with a number of chiefs (Kahekili remained on O‘ahu to maintain order of his newly conquered kingdom.)

Kekaulike’s son, Kamehamehanui lost Hana, which was isolated from the rest of Maui.

Kamehameha then landed at Kahului and marched on to Wailuku, where Kalanikūpule waited for him. This led to the famous battle ‘Kepaniwai’ (the damming of the waters) in ‘Iao Valley (which Kamehameha decisively won.)

Maui Island was conquered by Kamehameha and Maui’s fighting force was destroyed – Kalanikūpule and some other chiefs escaped and made their way to O‘ahu (to later face Kamehameha, again; this time in the Battle of Nu‘uanu in 1795.)

There the war apparently ends with some of Kalanikūpule’s warriors pushed/jumping off the Pali. When the Pali Highway was being built, excavators counted approximately 800-skulls, believed to be the remains of the warriors who were defeated by Kamehameha.

The Kekaulike Dynasty was a powerful line that ruled multiple islands. Although they lost to Kamehameha, it should also be remembered that Kamehameha’s own mother, the Chiefess Keku‘iapoiwa II, was a Maui chiefess, and the Kekaulike lineage continued through the leadership of the future leaders of Hawai‘i.

Kamehameha’s wives of rank were chiefesses of Maui. These were Keōpūolani, Ka‘ahumanu, Kalākua-Kaneiheimālie and Peleuli. Keōpūolani, granddaughter of Kekaulike, was the mother of the Kamehameha II and Kamehameha III.

Others from this Maui lineage include King Kaumuali‘i (of Kauai,) Abner Pākī (father of Bernice Pauahi Bishop,) Kuakini, Keʻeaumoku II and Kalanimōkū. (Art by Brook Parker.)

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Kekaulike-Brook Parker
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Maui Nui
Maui Nui
Kaahumanu-(HerbKane)
Kaahumanu-(HerbKane)
'John Adams' Kuakini, royal governor or the island of Hawai'i, circa 1823
‘John Adams’ Kuakini, royal governor or the island of Hawai’i, circa 1823
George Cox Kahekili Keʻeaumoku II (1784–1824) served as a military leader, and then became a convert to Christianity and Royal Governor of Maui
George Cox Kahekili Keʻeaumoku II (1784–1824) served as a military leader, and then became a convert to Christianity and Royal Governor of Maui
Abner Pākī (c. 1808–1855) was a member of Hawaiian nobility. He was a legislator and judge, and the father of Bernice Pauahi Bishop-1855
Abner Pākī (c. 1808–1855) was a member of Hawaiian nobility. He was a legislator and judge, and the father of Bernice Pauahi Bishop-1855
William Pitt Kalanimoku (c. 1768–1827) was a High Chief who functioned similar to a prime minister of the Hawaiian Kingdom
William Pitt Kalanimoku (c. 1768–1827) was a High Chief who functioned similar to a prime minister of the Hawaiian Kingdom
Mahiole_of_Kaumualii,_1899- Kaumualiʻi (c. 1778 – May 26, 1824) was the last independent Aliʻi Aimoku (King of the islands) of Kauaʻi and Niʻihau
Mahiole_of_Kaumualii,_1899- Kaumualiʻi (c. 1778 – May 26, 1824) was the last independent Aliʻi Aimoku (King of the islands) of Kauaʻi and Niʻihau
Lydia Namahana Piʻia (c. 1787–1829) was one of the Queen consorts at the founding of the Kingdom of Hawaii. She was sister of Queen Kaahumanu
Lydia Namahana Piʻia (c. 1787–1829) was one of the Queen consorts at the founding of the Kingdom of Hawaii. She was sister of Queen Kaahumanu
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King_Kahekili_Approaching_Discovery_off_Maui-(HerbKane)

Filed Under: Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance Tagged With: Kamehamehanui, Kekaulike, Kalakua, Kalanikupule, Hawaii, Kahekili, Kuakini, Piia, Maui, Maui Nui, Kaahumanu, Kalanimoku, Keopuolani, Paki

April 24, 2017 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Betsey Stockton Arrives in the Islands

“On the 24th (of April, 1823), we saw and made Hawaii (Owhyhee). At the first sight of the snow-capped mountains, I felt a strange sensation of joy and grief. It soon wore away, and as we sailed slowly past its windward side, we had a full view of all its grandeur.”

“The tops of the mountains are hidden in the clouds, and covered with perpetual snow. We could see with a glass the white banks, which brought the strong wintry blasts of our native country to our minds so forcibly, as almost to make me shiver. But it was not long before objects that were calculated to have a chilling effect of another kind, were brought to our sight.”

“Two or three canoes, loaded with natives, came to the ship: their appearance was that of half man and half beast—naked—except a narrow strip of tapa round their loins. When they first came on board, the sight chilled our very hearts. The ladies retired to the cabin, and burst into tears; and some of the gentlemen turned pale : my own soul sickened within me, and every nerve trembled.”

“Are these, thought I, the beings with whom I must spend the remainder of my life! They are men and have souls was the reply which conscience made. We asked them where the king was at Hawaii, or Oahu? They said at Oahu.”

“We informed them that we were missionaries, come to live with them, and do them good. At which an old man exclaimed, in his native dialect, what may be thus translated—‘That is very good, by and by, know God.’”

“This beginning of missionary labours seemed very encouraging; and in a short time our unpleasant feelings were much dissipated, and we conversed with them freely, through the boys, who were our interpreters. We gave them old clothes; and in return they gave us all the fish they had caught, except one large one, which we bought.”

“They remained with us until our boat went on shore, and brought us some potatoes, taro, and cocoanuts, which were very refreshing to us after a voyage of five months; part of which time we had no other diet than meat and bread.”

“I brought my little boy on deck (she was caring for the new-born child of the Stewarts, born on the way to the Islands), who was two weeks old; some of them took him in their arms, and in ecstasy exclaimed, aroha maitai—very great love to you; and kissed him.”

“The last expression of affection we could have dispensed with very well; but we have to become all things to all men, that we may gain some. They then bid us many arohas, and took their departure.”

“On Saturday, the 10th of May, we left the ship, and went to the mission enclosure at Honoruru. We had assigned to us a little thatched house in one corner of the yard, consisting of one small room, with a door, and two windows—the door too small to admit a person walking in without stooping, and the windows only large enough for one person to look out at a time.”

“Near us was another of the same kind, occupied by Mr. R, and opposite one much larger, where Mr. B. and E. resided. Next to them stood another small one, in which Mr. Ellis, of the London Mission Society resided; and in the mission house (which at home would be called small) there were Messrs. Bingham, Thurston, Loomis, Harwood, Goodrich, Blatchley and Chamberlain.”

“The family all eat at the same table, and the ladies attend to the work by turns. Mrs. Stewart and myself took each of us a day separately. I found my time fully occupied during our stay at Oahu, which I was not sorry for.”

“Had I been idle, I should not in all probability have been so happy in my situation as I was. I was obliged to stay within the enclosure all the time, except on the Sabbath, when I went to church, which was a few rods off: and in the morning early I went three or four times, with Mr. Stewart, to Mr. Allen’s (another former slave), about one mile and a half from home, for milk.”

Mr. Allen was very kind to me, and seemed happy to see one of his own country people. I think he told me he had resided on the island twenty years, and had never before seen a coloured female.”

“His wife is a native woman, but very pleasant, and to all appearance innocent. The first time I visited her she presented me with a very handsome mat, and appeared happy to see me. They are in good circumstances, and friendly to the mission. I regretted leaving them very much.”

“On the 26th of May we heard that the barge was about to sail for Lahaina, with the old queen and princes; and that the queen was desirous to have missionaries to accompany her; and that if missionaries would consent to go, the barge should wait two days for them.”

“A meeting was called to consult whether it was expedient to establish a mission at Lahaina. The mission was determined on, and Mr. S. was appointed to go: he chose Mr. R. for his companion, who was also appointed the next day. On the 28th we embarked on the mighty ocean again, which we had left so lately.”

“In the morning of the 31st, we all came on deck, and were in sight of land. In the middle of the day we came to anchor; the gentlemen left the vessel to see if they could obtain a house, or any accommodations for us. They returned in a few hours with Mr. Butler, an American resident, who had kindly offered us a house.”

“In the afternoon our things were landed, and we took up our residence in Lahaina. We had not seen a tree that looked green and beautiful since we left home, until we came here.”

“The water, too, is very good, and the house one of the best that I have seen on the island.—It is the same that Dr. Holman had while he was in this country. Mr. B. was very kind to us, and did ever thing in his power to make us comfortable.”

“His wife is a half-breed, and one of the prettiest women I have seen on the island. She understands English, but will not speak it. The next day, being the Sabbath, the gentlemen went down to the village in the morning, and preached by an interpreter.”

“The people were very attentive, and requested that their instruction might begin the next day; and accordingly the following day it did begin. Mr. Pitt dined with us the 2d of the month.”

“After dinner he said to the missionaries very politely, ‘I wish you much joy on the island of Mowee.’ He is a pleasant and sensible man, and the most influential of any on the islands: he favours the mission. The next morning Mr. Loomis and Mr. Butler accompanied him to Oahu, and left us with the natives and Mrs. Butler: William staid with the old Queen, so that we were quite alone.”

“Near the last of June I had another attack of the pain in my breast, with a little spitting of blood. At the time I was seized, we were without a lancet, or any means of obtaining one, except from a ship that had just come into the harbour.”

“Mr. P. sent to it and got one, and Mr. R. bled me. In a few minutes I was relieved, but was not able to leave the place until the 24th, when a brig came in sight.— Supposing it to have the deputation on board, I walked to the beach, and arrived just in time to see his royal highness land, amidst hundreds.”

“He appeared very well at the time, but we found soon after that he was in a frolic, and had left Oahu without its being known where he was going. The day previous to his arrival a schooner came in quest of him; and the day after, his own barge came, with two of his queens—he has four.”

“In his manners he is quite a gentleman. He reads and writes well. We regret very much that he is given to drink. He says he is afraid of the fire and has made several attempts to refrain, but has been unsuccessful.”

“The 29th was the Sabbath. I went in the morning with the family to worship: the scene that presented itself was one that would have done an American’s heart good to have witnessed. Our place of worship was nothing but an open place on the beach, with a large tree to shelter us: on the ground a large mat was laid, on which the chief persons sat.”

“To the right there was a sofa, and a number of chairs; on these the missionaries, the king, and principal persons sat. The kanakas, or lower class of people, sat on the ground in rows; leaving a passage open to the sea, from which the breeze was blowing.”

“Mr. R. addressed them from these words, ‘It is appointed unto all men once to die, and after death the judgment.’ Honoru acted as interpreter: the audience all appeared very solemn.”

“After service the favourite queen called me, and requested that I should take a seat with her on the sofa, which I did, although I could say but few words which she could understand. Soon after, biding them aroha I returned with the family.”

“In the afternoon we had an English sermon at our house: about fifty were present, and behaved well. In the morning one of the king’s boys came to the house, desiring to be instructed in English.”

“Mr. S. thought it would be well for me to engage in the work at once. Accordingly I collected a proper number and commenced. I had four English, and six Hawaiian scholars. This, with the care of the family, I find as much as I can manage.”

“July 3d,—In the afternoon I went, with a number of the natives, to purchase pine apples. After walking through Taro patches and water, we came to the pine apples, which appeared very handsome.”

“They grow on the edge of a pond of water; the fruit generally bangs in the water- one or two on a bunch—sometimes only one—which grows straight up on the bush. I obtained two apples, and seven plants, and returned home before night.”

“4th—In the morning, Mr. S. returned from prayers, with Mr. Ellis, the London missionary, who had just arrived from Oahu, on his way to Hawaii. I was very much disappointed to see him without receiving letters from America.”

“When we left Honoru, two vessels were expected ; one from New York, and the other from Boston. I often visited the beach to watch for sails: the vessel at last arrived, but brought me no letters. Oh may I be taught, to be submissive at all times.” (All from Betsey Stockton Journal; Christian Advocate)

Betsey, a former slave, was an American Protestant missionary to Hawai‘i. On the trip to Maui, she and the others joined Keōpūolani, former wife of Kamehameha and mother to two kings – Liholiho and Kauikeaouli.

Under the former traditional kapu, Keōpūolani was the highest-ranking person in the Islands; as a slave, Betsey Stockton wasn’t considered a person, rather property. The missionaries accepted her into the mission and was the first single-person to participate in the mission.

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Filed Under: Missionaries / Churches / Religious Buildings, Prominent People Tagged With: Betsey Stockton, Lahaina, Hawaii, Missionaries, Maui, Charles Stewart, Keopuolani

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