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June 21, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Lelia Byrd

Within ten years after Captain Cook’s contact with Hawai‘i in 1778, the Islands became a favorite port of call in the trade with China.  The fur traders and merchant ships crossing the Pacific needed to replenish food supplies and water.

The maritime fur trade focused on acquiring furs of sea otters, seals and other animals from the Pacific Northwest Coast and Alaska.  The furs were mostly sold in China in exchange for tea, silks, porcelain and other Chinese goods, which were then sold in Europe and the US.

A triangular trade network emerged linking the Pacific Northwest coast, China and the Hawaiian Islands to Britain and the United States (especially New England).

One such boat was the Lelia Byrd.  Between 1803 and 1805, she crossed the Pacific three times (over 20,000-miles of open ocean,) including numerous journeys up and down the American coastline from the Columbia River to Guatemala.

The Lelia Byrd was fitted out at Hamburg by Captain Richard J Cleveland of Salem, Massachusetts – he liked the boat: “Having … purchased a new boat, we took the first favorable opportunity to proceed down the river, and … put to sea on the 8th of November, 1801, in company with a dozen sail of ships and brigs … The superiority of sailing of the Lelia Byrd was soon manifest, as, at the expiration of four hours, but two of the number that sailed with us were discernible from the deck, having been left far astern.”  (Cleveland)

June 21, 1803 marked an important day in the history of Hawaiʻi land transportation and other uses when the Lelia Byrd, an American ship under Captain William Shaler (with commercial officer Richard Cleveland,) arrived at Kealakekua Bay with two mares (one with foal) and a stallion on board.

Before departing to give these gifts to Kamehameha (who was not on the island to accept them,) the captain left one of the mares with John Young (a trusted advisor of the King, who begged for one of the animals.)  “This was the first horse that ever trod the soil of Owhyhee (Hawaiʻi,) and caused, amongst the natives, incessant exclamations of astonishment.”  (Cleveland)

Shaler and Cleveland then departed for Lāhainā, Maui to give the mare and stallion to King Kamehameha I.  “When the breeze sprang up, though at a long distance from the village of Lahina (Lāhainā,) we were boarded by Isaac Davis … Soon after, a double canoe was seen coming towards us; and, on arrival alongside, a large, athletic man, nearly naked, jumped on board, who was introduced, by Davis, as Tamaahmaah (Kamehameha,) the great King.”

“Desirous of conciliating the good opinion of a person whose power was so great, we omitted no attention which we supposed would be agreeable to him. … after walking round the deck of the vessel, and taking only a very careless look of the horses, he got into his canoe, and went on shore.”  (Cleveland)

“Davis remained on board all night, to pilot us to the best anchorage, which we gained early the following morning, and, soon after, had our decks crowded with visiters to see the horses. The people … expressed such wonder and admiration, as were very natural on beholding, for the first time, this noble animal.”

“The horses were landed safely, and in perfect health, the same day, and gave evidence, by their gambols, of their satisfaction at being again on terra firma. They were then presented to the King, who was told, that one had been also left at Owhyhee for him. He expressed his thanks, but did not seem to comprehend their value.”  (Cleveland)

While Kamehameha “remarked that he could not perceive that the ability to transport a person from one place to another, in less time than he could run, would be adequate compensation for the food he would consume and the care he would require,” Hawaiʻi had a new means of transportation (as well as a work-animal to help control the growing cattle population (gifts from Captain Vancouver in 1793.))  (Cleveland)

Cleveland and Shaler left and continued trading between China and America.  “A few days after my departure for Canton, Mr. Shaler sailed from thence, bound to the coast of California, where he arrived without accident. He had been on that coast but a few weeks, and had disposed of but a small amount of cargo, when, unfortunately, the ship struck on a shoal, and beat so heavily, before getting off, as to cause her to leak alarmingly.  (Cleveland)

(T)o have attempted to reach the Sandwich Islands, while they could hardly keep the ship afloat in smooth water, would have been highly imprudent. There seemed, then, to be no other alternative, than to go to one of the desert islands in the neighbourhood, land the cargo, and heave the ship out, or lay her on shore.  (Cleveland)

The tide did not ebb sufficiently to enable them to come to the leaks by laying her on shore; and in attempting to heave her keel out, she filled and sank. Fortunately, the water was so shoal as not to cover the deck; and she was again pumped dry. It was now evident, that they could not make such repairs as would allow them to prosecute the voyage; and to stop the leaks sufficiently, to enable them to reach the Sandwich Islands, seemed to be the only way to avoid the total loss of the property.    (Cleveland)

The repairs they were able to make, were done in so imperfect a manner, as would have made it unjustifiable to attempt any other passage, than one, where they might presume on good weather and a fair wind all the way, like the one contemplated. With these advantages, however, it was not without incessant labor at the pumps, that they were able to reach the Sandwich Islands in 1804.  (Cleveland)

An attempt to repair the ship, with the very inadequate means which were available here, was discouraging, from the great length of time it would require.  No foreign vessel was procurable, to return to the coast with the cargo. To freight a ship with it to China, would have been easy; but then it would be transporting it to where the loss on a resale would be very heavy.  (Cleveland)

In this dilemma, it was decided, as a choice of difficulties, to barter with Tamaahmaah the Lelia Byrd for a little vessel of thirty or forty tons, which had been built on the island.  (Cleveland)

This was a negotiation of greater magnitude than the King had ever before participated in; and the importance of which was sensibly felt by him.  (Cleveland)

Kamehameha was open to negotiation; he saw the benefit of the new style of boat coming to the islands and started to acquire and build them.  The first Western-style vessel built in the Islands was the Beretane (1793.)  Through the aid of Captain George Vancouver’s mechanics, after launching, it was used in the naval combat with Kahekili’s war canoes off the Kohala coast.  (Thrum)

Encouraged by the success of this new type of vessel, others were built.  The second ship built in the Islands, a schooner called Tamana (named after Kamehameha’s favorite wife, Kaʻahumanu,) was used to carry of his cargo of trade along the coast of California.  (Couper & Thrum, 1886)

According to Cleveland’s account, Kamehameha possessed at that time twenty small vessels of from twenty to forty tons burden, some even copper-bottomed.  (Alexander)

The king’s fleet of small vessels was hauled up on shore around Waikiki Bay, with sheds built over them. One small sloop was employed as a packet between Oahu and Hawaii. Captain Harbottle, an old resident, generally acted as pilot.  (Alexander)

Shaler exchanged “Lelia Byrd,” with Kamehameha for the Tamana and a sum of money to boot.  (Alexander)  The cargo was received into his store, and when the schooner was ready it was all faithfully and honorably delivered to the person appointed to receive it.   (Cleveland)

Mr. George McClay, the king’s carpenter, put in a new keel, and nearly replanked the Lelia Byrd in Honolulu Harbor. She afterwards made two or three voyages to China with sandalwood.  (Alexander)

In 1809, the village of Honolulu, which consisted of several hundred huts, was then well shaded with cocoanut-trees. The king’s house, built close to the shore and surrounded by a palisade, was distinguished by the British colors and a battery of sixteen carriage guns belonging to his ship, the “Lily Bird” (Lelia Byrd), which lay unrigged in the harbor.  (Campbell; Alexander)

Kamehameha kept his shipbuilders busy; by 1810 he had more than thirty small sloops and schooners hauled up on the shore at Waikīkī and about a dozen more in Honolulu harbor, besides the Lelia Byrd.  (Kuykendall)  Later, the Lelia Byrd finally sank near Canton.  (Alexander)

The image shows the Lelia Byrd.

© 2025 Hoʻokuleana LLC

Filed Under: Economy, Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks Tagged With: John Young, Richard Cleveland, Hawaii, Lelia Byrd, Kamehameha, Horse, William Shaler

May 28, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Keōpūolani Sails to Lāhainā

On the arrival of the American missionaries in April 1820, all the chiefs were consulted respecting the expediency of their establishment in the islands. Some of the chiefs seemed to doubt; but Keōpūolani without hesitation approved their proposals.    (Keōpūolani Memoir)

Keōpūolani welcomed them. As the highest ranking ali‘i of her time, her embracing of Christianity set a crucial seal of approval on the missionaries and their god.  (Langlas & Lyon)

Keōpūolani was the daughter of Kīwalaʻo. Kīwalaʻo was the son of Kalaniʻōpuʻu by Kalola (sister of Kahekili.)  Her mother was Kekuiapoiwa Liliha, Kīwalaʻo sister.  She was aliʻi kapu of nī‘aupi‘o (high-born – offspring of the marriage of a high-born brother and sister or half-brother and half-sister.)

Her ancestors on her mother’s side were ruling chiefs of Maui; her ancestors on her father’s side were the ruling chiefs of the island of Hawai‘i.  Keōpūolani’s genealogy traced back to Ulu, who descended from Hulihonua and Keakahulilani, the first man and woman created by the gods.

In the year 1822, while at Honolulu, she was very ill, and her attention seems to have been then first drawn to the instructions of the missionaries.  (Anderson)

On April 27, 1823, the Second Company (First Reinforcements) arrived in the Islands. On board were missionaries Reverend Artemas Bishop and Mrs. Bishop, Dr. Abraham Blatchley and Mrs. Blatchley, Mr. Levi Chamberlain, Mr. James Ely and Mrs. Ely, Mr. Joseph Goodrich and Mrs. Goodrich, The Reverend William Richards and Mrs. Richards, The Reverend Charles S. Stewart and Mrs. Stewart, and Miss Betsey Stockton.

In May 1823, Keōpūolani and her husband Hoapili expressed a desire to have an instructor connected with them. They selected Taua, a native teacher sent by the church at Huaheine, in company with the Rev.William Ellis, to instruct them and their people in the first principles of the Gospel, and teach them to read and write. (Memoir)

Keōpūolani requested, as did the king and chiefs, that missionaries might accompany her. As Lāhainā had been previously selected for a missionary station, the missionaries were happy to commence their labors there under such auspices.  (Keōpūolani Memoir)

Liholiho (King Kamehameha II) was the son of Kamehameha and Keōpūolani. Like his father, Liholiho had loved foreign ships; over time he had collected a sizable fleet of Western vessels, which, with guns and training by the foreigners, were a major asset in unifying and maintaining his kingdom across the islands.

Liholiho purchased Cleopatra’s Barge and her cargo for 1.07-million pounds of sandalwood, worth $80,000 at the time.  On January 4, 1821, King Liholiho took formal possession of Cleopatra’s Barge, appointing his personal secretary, Frenchman Jean-Baptiste Rives, as temporary captain. That ship was to take Keōpūolani to Lāhainā.

“On the 26th of May [1823] we heard that the barge was about to sail for Lahaina, with the old queen and princes; and that the queen was desirous to have missionaries to accompany her; and that if missionaries would consent to go, the barge should wait two days for them.”

“A meeting was called to consult whether it was expedient to establish a mission at Lahaina. The mission was determined on, and Mr. [Stewart] was appointed to go: he chose Mr. [Richards] for his companion, who was also appointed the next day. On the 28th we embarked on the mighty ocean again, which we had left so lately.” (Betsey Stockton)

As noted in Rev Stewart’s book of his time in Hawaii “The Cleopatra’s Barge, at sea, May 30, 1823. On Wednesday, the 28th, Mr and Mrs Richards, [Harriet Stewart] and myself, [Betsey Stockton] and [Stewarts’ son Charles – born at sea on the way to the Islands], with William Kamahoula, and Mr. [Elisha] Loomis, who makes the voyage to see us established at our station, embarked with the queen Keopuolani for Maui.”

“Our designation was so unexpected, and departure so sudden, that we had scarce leisure to turn a thought on the separation about to take place from our fellow laborers, or to cast a glance of anticipation at the possible trials that might await us, in a distant and solitary district of the islands.”

“The topsails of the barge had long been unfurled as a signal for sailing, before we had completed our preparations, and the last package was scarcely secured, before the farewell hymn and benedictions of our friends were sounding in our ears, and we hurried to the open bosom of the Pacific.”

“Left to the deliberate contemplation of our position, we almost trembled at the responsibility resting upon us, and at the arduous duties in prospect. Every thought was exquisitely awake to the life on which we had now actually entered.”

“Months indeed had passed since we bade adieu to our country, home, and friends; but during a voyage of 18,000 miles, we had still been surrounded by those we loved; and for the last few weeks, though on heathen shores, we had been calmly reposing in the bosom of a band of intelligent and affectionate Christians, without a participation of their labors and their cares. …”

“We were fully alive to the contrast; and, in the anticipation of the privations and trials, by which we believe the work in which we are engaged must be accomplished, we could scarce refrain exclaiming, ‘Farewell ease – farewell comfort – farewell every wordly joy.’”

“But with these feelings there was no mingling of despondency. No, in the kind providence of God, every circumstance attending our situation is too auspicious to admit the indulgence of any unbelieving fear of the ultimate success of our enterprise.

“We had been on board scarce an hour, before the polite and kind attention of those under whose immediate and express patronage we had embarked, made us almost forget that we were not still in the bosom of beloved friends. …”

“[I]n the evening, while a splendid moon gave a softened beauty to the receding promontories of Oahu, and brought to light the distant shores of Molokai and Lanai, overtopped by the loftier heights of Maui …”

“Previous to our embarcation, we had but little opportunity to judge, from personal intercourse, of the degree of civilization to which the chiefs have attained in minor points, and were somewhat surprised at the ceremonious attentions paid us.”

“Immediately on reaching the vessel, we were informed that the after-cabin was appropriated exclusively to-our use; though there were not less than two hundred persons on board, many of them high chiefs, with their particular friends; …”

“… and we had hardly cleared the harbor, when the steward waited on us, to know what we would order for dinner, and at what hour it should be served.

“Mr [Anthony] Allen had sent us a fine ready-dressed kid, with some melons, for our passage; and Mrs [Hiram] Bingham had kindly prepared coffee and other refreshments; but our table has been so regularly and comfortably spread, that our basket of cold provisions remains untouched.”

“This attention is the more noticeable, because the trouble is entirely on our account, all the natives eating their favorite dishes on their mats on deck. Kalaimoku [Kalanimōku], from courtesy, very politely took his seat with us the first time we sat down. to, meal, but excused himself from partaking of the dinner, by saying that he had eaten above.”

“There was something also in the attentions of the king to his mother, when leaving Honolulu, that had a pleasing effect on our minds. This venerable old lady was the last person that came on board.”

“After we had reached the quarter-deck of the barge, she appeared on the beach, surrounded by an immense crowd, and supported by Liholiho in a tender and respectful manner.”

“He would let no one assist her into the long-boat but himself; and seemed to think of nothing but her ease and safety, till she was seated on her couch, beneath an awning over the main hatch.”

“The king continued to manifest the utmost affection and respect for her till we got under way; and, apparently from the same filial feelings, accompanied us fifteen miles to sea, and left the brig in a pilot-boat, in time barely to reach the harbor before dark.” (Charles Stewart)

“On their passage [Keōpūolani] told [the missionaries] she would be their mother; and indeed she acted the part of a mother ever afterwards. On the evening of Saturday, the clay of their arrival, she sent them as much food, already cooked, as was necessary for their comfort at the time, and also for the next day, which was the Sabbath.”

“In the morning of the 31st, we all came on deck, and were in sight of land. In the middle of the day we came to anchor; the gentlemen left the vessel to see if they could obtain a house, or any accommodations for us. They returned in a few hours with Mr. Butler, an American resident, who had kindly offered us a house.”  (Betsey Stockton)

“Immediately on their arrival, [Keōpūolani] requested [the missionaries] to commence teaching, and said, also, ‘It is very proper that my sons (meaning the missionaries) be present with me at morning and evening prayers.’”

“They were always present, sung a hymn in the native language, and when nothing special prevented, addressed through an interpreter the people who were present, when Taua, or the interpreter, concluded the service with prayer.” (Keōpūolani Memoir)

“In the afternoon our things were landed, and we took up our residence in Lahaina. We had not seen a tree that looked green and beautiful since we left home, until we came here.” (Betsey Stockton)

On April 24, 1873, while serving as Sheriff on Maui, William Owen Smith (a son of missionary Lowell Smith) planted Lāhainā’s Indian Banyan to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the first Protestant mission in Lāhainā. 

© 2025 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: General, Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance, Missionaries / Churches / Religious Buildings, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks Tagged With: Lahaina, Hoapili, Charles Stewart, Keopuolani, Betsey Stockton, Haaheo O Hawaii, Cleopatra's Barge, 2nd Company, Second Company, Hawaii, Missionaries

May 7, 2025 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Kawaihae Harbor

Kawaihae is also generally referenced as Pelekane, which means ‘British,’ possibly named after the Young and the Davis families who lived there (when Isaac Davis (born in Pembrokeshire, Wales) died in 1810, his friend and co-advisor to Kamehameha, John Young (an Englishman born in Liverpool,) looked after Davis’ children.)

The vicinity around what is now Kawaihae Harbor (“the water of wrath”) has been the scene of many important events, from the killing of Kamehameha’s rival and cousin, Keōua in 1791, to interactions with foreign visitors, including Captain George Vancouver of Great Britain, Otto von Kotzebue of Russia, and dignitaries from France, the United States and other nations.

Kamehameha had a house here.  Following his death in 1819 and the succession of Liholiho to rule as Kamehameha II, Kawaihae served as the initial Royal Center for Liholiho, who sought consolidation of his forces and consecration of his leadership role, there.  (Kelly)

When the Pioneer Company of the American Protestant missionaries arrived the next year, they first stopped at Kawaihae; this is where the missionaries first learned that the kapu system had been abolished and heiau were destroyed.

Kawaihae’s position as the center of inter-island trade and transport on northwest Hawai‘i is detailed in a description published in the Merchant’s Magazine and Commercial Review in 1858:

“Kawaihae is a small village in the bay of the same name in the western shore of Hawaii…It derives its importance from being the port of the rich and extensive grazing uplands of Waimea, one of the finest agricultural districts of the islands, which has not yet developed its full resources.”

“Forty or fifty whale ships have annually visited this port for the last few years, to procure salted beefs and Irish potatoes, which are considered the finest produced in the islands.“

Features of the village in 1861 were described by Charles de Varigny, the secretary of the French Consulate in Honolulu (who later served Kamehameha V as finance minister and minister of foreign affairs.)

Varigny observed how much of the village was given over to its commercial functions: “The village consists chiefly of a single large wooden structure which serves as a country store and warehouse for the products of the district. Around the shop are clustered several makeshift buildings providing annexes for further storage.”

“A small wharf serves for the departure and landing of travelers. At a short distance from shore floats an old stripped-down vessel, its melancholy hull balancing at anchor and providing storage for products arriving from Honolulu.” (pacificworlds)

Over time, Kawaihae and Waimea (up the hill) developed a synergistic relationship.  The area was a canoe landing area, whether for commerce or combat.  (This is where Maui’s chief Kamalālāwalu landed in his assault against Lonoikamakahiki’s Hawaiʻi forces (Lono won.))  But Kawaihae’s presence was really focused on commerce as a landing site.

A 1914 map of Kawaihae Village shows a concentration of development along the shoreline; the uplands of the Kawaihae region remained undeveloped pasture land.

During WWII war years (1941-1945,) Kawaihae’s role as the shipping outlet for Waimea was intensified.  Troops were shipped in and out through Kawaihae. At the southern end of the bay, in Kawaihae 2, amphibious landing exercises were conducted and military emplacements were set up in the area of Puʻukohola Heiau.

The war in the Pacific had been over less than a year when on April 1, 1946, an earthquake off the Aleutian Islands caused a tsunami that devastated the Hawaiian Islands.  Although no lives were lost at Kawaihae, its effects wiped out commercial fishing activity there and it was reported that the tsunami “…was the beginning of the end for the Kawaihae Fishing Village. People left.”  (Cultural Surveys)

The old landing had been destroyed in the 1946 tsunami and the one built in 1937 had proven unsafe in high seas. By the 1950s, the need for improved harbor facilities at Kawaihae was apparent.

The Kawaihae Deep-Draft Harbor project was authorized by the US Congress in 1950; to be constructed were: “an entrance channel 400 feet wide, approximately 2,900 feet long, and 40 feet deep; a harbor basin 1,250 feet square and 35 feet deep; and a breakwater with a maximum crest elevation 13 feet above low water and approximately 4,400 feet long, of which 3,200 feet would be protected with heavy stone revetment.”

The harbor was created by dredging part of an extensive coral reef which extended 4,000-feet seaward and ran along the shore more than a mile south of Kawaihae town; the reclaimed reef area created a coral flat peninsula that extends approximately 1,000-feet makai (seaward) of the piers across the natural reef, forming a beach along the south harbor boundary and terminating at the outer breakwater.

The harbor’s construction was hailed as an “economic shot in the arm,” for sugar planters in the Kohala region of the island would no longer had to ship their crops overland to Hilo or to Kailua-Kona. The harbor would serve military needs as well. The Army was about to acquire a 100,000-acre training site nearby and could unload supplies at Kawaihae Harbor.  (Cultural Surveys)

At the completion of construction in 1959 (officially dedicated on October 5, 1959,) the Kawaihae facilities included an inter-island terminal, mooring areas, and a large harbor basin with a wide entrance channel.  Harbor modifications in 1973 widened the entrance channel and enlarged the basin (a little over 71-acres.)

The South Kawaihae Small Boat Harbor entrance channel and 850-foot West breakwater was constructed as part of Operation Tugboat and completed in December 1970.  As part of Project Tugboat, the Army used conventional high explosives to blast an 830-foot entrance channel, 120-feet wide/12-feet deep and a 200 by 200-foot turning basin.

(“Project Tugboat” was conducted by the Army’s Nuclear Cratering Group; perhaps because of this, some suggest nuclear explosives were used to clear the small boat harbor.  However, twelve 10-ton charges of an aluminized ammonium nitrate slurry explosives (placed 36-feet deep and 100 to 120-feet apart) were used; they were meant to simulate the yield of a nuclear explosion, but were not radioactive.)

After years of delay, it was recently announced that a project to improve the eastern portion of Kawaihae Small Boat Harbor is moving forward.  Among the improvements are a 445-foot long floating dock, as well as a 47-foot-long access ramp, gangway and 25 berthing stalls. Later a paved access road and new water system is planned.

© 2025 Hoʻokuleana LLC

 

Filed Under: General, Place Names, Prominent People, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks, Economy Tagged With: Kamehameha, Liholiho, Kamehameha II, John Young, South Kohala, Kawaihae, Puukohola, Pelekane, Hawaii, Hawaii Island, Isaac Davis

April 30, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Lei Sellers

“Hawaiians have a very attractive custom of decorating themselves with floral or other leis on any eventful occasion. The usage is readily noticed by all new comers, or passing strangers, and its predominance at the steamer dock, on departures, give a lasting favorable impression as parting friends are seen bedecked … as a ‘bon voyage’ decoration.”

“At least this is the principal feature into which this national custom has gradually drifted, the origin of which is to be accredited to King Kalakaua in the early part of his reign”. (Thrum 1922)

“Sometime during the mid-nineteenth century the demand for leis reached a point where it became profitable to make and sell leis. The demand came not only from the burgeoning non-Hawaiian population, but from natives as well.”

“By the turn of the century, the lei industry was well established in Honolulu. Hawaiian lei sellers–generally women–were visible on the sidewalks of Downtown Honolulu in the area of Hotel, Maunakea, and Kekaulike Streets.”

“They sat on mats with their flower baskets beside them and their leis hanging on nearby trees or buildings. Later, in the 1920s, they sat at small tables, making and selling their leis.”

“‘I was maybe about ten, eleven years old, when I was at Maunakea Street with [my grandmother] …. Most of the lei sellers did not have a name for their business. They were outside on the sidewalk in the front of [established] businesses …. We had tables. We had like a long board with nails on it . Then we just put our leis on [it], hanging down .’” (Sandra Santimer)

“The flower gardens at this time were mainly in Nu‘uanu and Palama. Lei sellers picked what they could from their own yards and neighborhoods. They rarely purchased flowers but when they did, it was from backyard growers, not commercial nurseries.”

“‘We have to get up five o’clock in the morning …. We used to pick [flowers] every morning before we go to school. We soak it down, keep it cool, then we come home and we string it up … . And we worked hard for so cheap.’” (Moana Umi)

“November 1927 marked the beginning of Matson Navigation Company’s luxury liner service between California and Honolulu, which increased tourism. Steamer days occurred more frequently and the lei-selling industry continued to grow.”

“On steamer days these Downtown lei sellers and others, who came from all parts of the island, went down to the waterfront. Customers bought leis to bedeck arriving or departing passengers. The most common leis were maile (made thick with multiple vines), white and yellow ginger, carnation, rose, and haku leis.”

“Also popularized at this time was the crepe paper lei, particularly the yellow, resembling the ‘ilima flower. Overseas passengers purchased them as souvenirs.” (UH Oral History)

“Since California authorities placed their ban on all plants and most products of Hawaii, excluding them from being brought in to the State for fear of insect pests, the floral profusion in the lei market and at steamer departures has been greatly modified …”

“… but the spirit and activities in the observance of the custom of decorating departing friends and guests finds its expression in paper leis. At first this was confined to the yellow ilima, and proved a very successful substitute of more durable quality.”

“This led to the adoption of other and variegated colors, for gayety rather than an imitation floral product; crepe paper furnishing the material.” (Thrum 1922)

“‘They were good sellers then, … the seeds [seed leis] and crepe paper leis. Because they always wanted to keep them and take ‘em back as souvenirs. That, we did quite a bit, although the work that was involved in it was quite a bit of work. But then, those days, money had a lot of value.’”

“‘So even if the leis were supposed to be sold as twenty-five cents, if you couldn’t sell it at twenty-five cents, you went down to two for twenty-five cents just so you made some money. You see, but your labor didn’t count.’” (Gail Burgess)

“According to Hawai’i Tourist Bureau estimates in 1931, there were 200 Hawaiian lei sellers in the territory. As large numbers of lei vendors gathered on steamer days, competition intensified. Pushing, shoving, and rushing customers were common.”

“In this environment, lei sellers became familiar with marketplace competition. As one seller shouted out the prices of her leis, others countered with similar or lower prices. At times arguments arose, but when the day’s selling ended, the lei sellers gathered and socialized as friends.” (UH Oral History)

“‘That’s where we opened, we opened [on] the waterfront. And was good. We all sit down, string our leis. My mother was there, too. And she’d make food and call everybody. Everybody eating raw fish …. Oh, and they used to enjoy that.’”  (Sophia Ventura)

“By 1933, the number of lei sellers and the intensity of their competition necessitated regulation. Most agreed on the need, and a set of rules and regulations was adopted with the formation of the first lei sellers’ association.”

Police Chief WA Gabrielson called a meeting of the more than 100 Honolulu lei sellers, “The chief suggested that the lei sellers form an organization among themselves for their protection and to preserve the Hawaiian tradition of the lei as well as put a stop to public criticism of some lei sellers’ activities.” (SB, May 10, 1933)

As a result, “prices became stabilized and the old-time ‘mobbing’ of potential purchasers was virtually eliminated.”  “Five dollar fines will be imposed upon members of the Hawaiian Lei Sellers association who violate the organization’s rule prohibiting mobbing of prospective customers”. (SB, Aug 8, 1933)

“[F]urther regulatory measures were suggested – and adopted” … “all male vendors” were barred from the waterfront. “At the same time a further regulation was voted which would bar minors below the age of [16].” (Adv, June 27, 1933) 

That did not fully end peaceful interactions between the sellers … “Lady lei sellers indulged in fist fight on famous pier 11 and visited jail via emergency hospital route.  One was lei-ed up, you know.”  (Adv, Aug 13, 1933)

“As jobs grew scarce in the 1930s, the industry attracted more women seeking a livelihood for themselves and their families. Requiring no initial funding and no labor other than that provided by family, lei selling became a viable means of support.”

“During World War II, a majority of lei sellers acquired war jobs. … Some occasionally sold leis at nightclubs. Others, despite the diminishing tourist trade, retained their lei businesses on a full-time basis. They concentrated on the military clientele.”

During the WWII war years, leis were not the only thing these lei makers made – with growing demand for camouflage material, many of Hawai‘i’s lei makers supported the war effort by weaving camouflage netting.

“Camouflage workers included soldiers, lei makers, artists and fishing net weavers, each group with skills to contribute to the challenge of hiding military equipment from the enemy.  Even Hawaiian language scholar Mary Kawena Pukui was hired to be a part of the camouflage work.” (Denby Fawcett, Civil Beat)

“No boats came in”, so a “lot of the lei sellers at that time didn’t have a job. You know, there was no more. And the lei sellers were all mostly elderly people. … [my mother] went get jobs for the lei sellers to come into work camouflage.”

“[M]y mother went and asked to have the lei sellers to work in the camouflage for the army. That’s how they had all the lei sellers go. … Majority of the lei sellers from the boat all worked camouflage.” (Martina Macalino, UH Oral History)

“The Army figured lei sellers with their nimble fingers and understanding of texture and shape already had the needed skills for weaving scraps of fabric into camouflage nets. Fish net makers joined in to make the netting on which the lei makers wove dyed burlap strips.” (Denby Fawcett, Civil Beat)

“As part of the war effort from 1941–1943, [Mary] Kawena [Pukui] served as forelady of a camouflage unit in Waikïkï, under the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, working with the lei ‘garland’ makers, whose job was to weave burlap strips into chicken wire for moveable covers for coast artillery, airplanes and trucks.” (Honolulu Rosies)

“The introduction of commercial aviation in 1945 drew some lei sellers to the airport. Lei selling continued in Waikiki and at nightclubs around town, but ceased on Downtown Honolulu streets when it was outlawed in the 1950s. As airplanes overtook ocean-going passenger lines as the mode of travel to the Islands, waterfront sales also dwindled.”

“The first location of the airport lei sellers was on Lagoon Drive near Nimitz Highway. Leis were hung in the back of old trucks converted into lei stands.”

“‘[We] had all these jalopies. No more electricity over there. Just a dark road and don’t even have street lights. What we have is gas lanterns. We hang it onto the stand. This is how it started. Just by experience, ‘Oh, let’s take a chance.’” (Harriet Kauwe)

“‘The navy used to have a boat [seaplane] by the name of the Mars. That boat used to bring in good, good business for us lei sellers at the airport …. That plane used to come in about two or three times a week. When they go out, oh, we used to make tremendous business.’”  (Irene Sims)

“The site was a very prosperous one and news traveled quickly to other sellers. The group grew until there were about a dozen trucks along Lagoon Drive. (The line-up order was important, as it was on the waterfront, and as it is today. The first ones in line seem to attract more customers.) This closed group of lei vendors established themselves as the airport lei sellers.”

“In 1952 the Hawai‘i Aeronautics Commission invited fifteen lei sellers to move into territory-built thatched huts located on Lagoon Drive at the entrance to the airport. Lei sellers fondly recall the huts, described by some as a Hawaiian village.”

“‘The old folks were told, ‘We’ll take you off the road, build grass huts for you, and it’ll be pleasant surroundings to sell leis.’ … It was very nice. I liked the grass huts. … Lagoon Drive in the ‘50s was good business.’”  (Maile Lee)

“‘Well, one had to sit in the back. And then, in the front where you sell, only one person could sit. … We had a small little … pune‘e in the back there, where you can sit or if you’re tired, you can lie down …. And a chair outside for whoever is working outside. It was not too much room. That’s why everybody had to stay in the house in the back to string [leis].’” (Bessie Watson)

“‘Everybody came. ‘Cause then, my brother and them would play music. They started to play in the back [of the thatched huts] …. So, that’ll get all the tourists. You know, they hear the music. From in the front, when the buses used to stop, [they] take pictures, they all go in the back …. Pretty soon, everybody’s dancing …. That was really nice over there.’” (Lillian Cameron)

“When a new airport was built in 1962, the lei sellers made another move.  The thatched huts were replaced by a single wooden building constructed near the main terminal. In this decade, rapid economic growth due largely to tourism increased revenues and brought steady business.”

“In 1978, the lei sellers moved to their present airport location, a concrete structure housing twelve lei stands. While family members still provide help, many non-Hawaiians–primarily Filipinas–now work at the airport stands.”

“As the Islands’ visitor industry grew, so did the lei industry. The business acumen of the lei seller paralleled this growth. As the lei business developed from its humble, uncomplicated beginnings into a sophisticated one, the lei seller developed into the business person of today.” (Lots here is from a summary in a UH Oral History project on lei sellers.)

© 2025 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: Economy, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks Tagged With: Hawaii, Lei Sellers, Hawaiian Lei Sellers Association

April 26, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Shipwrecks at Holoikauaua (the Pearl and the Hermes)

Holoikauaua (literally, Hawaiian monk seal that swims in the rough) is an atoll now known as Pearl and Hermes.  Its modern name reflects the twin wrecks of British whalers, the ‘Pearl’ and the ‘Hermes,’ lost in 1822.

Holoikauaua is a large oval coral reef with several internal reefs and seven sandbar/islets above sea level along the southern half of the atoll. The land area is just under 100-acres (surrounded by more that 300,000-acres of coral reef) and is 20-miles across and 12-miles wide.

The highest point above sea level is about 10-feet. The islets are periodically washed over when winter storms pass through.  Its estimated age is 26.8-million years.

As American and British whalers first made passage from Hawai‘i to the seas near Japan, they encountered the low and uncharted atolls of the NWHI. There are 52 known shipwreck sites throughout the NWHI, the earliest dating back to 1822 – the Pearl and the Hermes.

During the night of April 26, 1822, these British whaling ships ran aground almost simultaneously.  The 327-ton Pearl (with Capt. E. Clark) grounded into a sandy coral groove, pressing its wooden keel into the sediment, while the smaller 258-ton Hermes (with Capt. J. Taylor) hit the hard sea bed.

The British whaler ‘Pearl’ was originally built as an American ship in Philadelphia at least as early as 1805. At some time after that, the ship may have been captured by the French during the aftermath of the Quasi-war and renamed La Perla.

She was subsequently taken by the British privateer Mayflower and from there put into service in the British South Seas whaling industry out of London.

The two ships had been making a passage from Honolulu to the newly discovered Japan Grounds, a track which took them through the uncharted Northwestern Hawaiian Islands.

The Pearl and the Hermes (wrecked to the west of the Pearl) are the only known British South Sea whaling wreck sites in the world.

The Hermes was not cradled by the reef, but disintegrated as she pounded across the sharp reef. The Pearl, sailing close by and striking the reef only a few minutes later, was more fortunate. She seems to have lodged firmly in place in a deeper groove with her stern seaward, and then she broke up more gradually over time.

Ship’s carpenter James Robinson commented in a letter to his mother, “When the vessel (Hermes) struck she was thrown on her beam end and being endangered by the masts falling – but God ordained it otherwise.”

The combined crews (totaling 57) made it safely to one of the small islands and were castaway for months with what meager provisions they could salvage.

Using salvaged timbers and other parts of the lost ships, one of the carpenters on board the Hermes, James Robinson, supervised the building of a small 30-ton schooner named ‘Deliverance’ on the beach.

Before launching the beach-built rescue vessel, the castaways were rescued by a passing ship.

Though most of the crew elected to board the rescue ship, Robinson and 11 others were able to recoup some of the financial losses from the wrecks by sailing the nearly finished Deliverance back to Honolulu, and eventually selling her there for $2,000.

From there, Robinson went on to found the highly successful James Robinson and Company shipyard in 1827 (the first shipyard at Honolulu) and became an influential member of the island community (his descendants became a well-known island family and his fortune founded the Robinson Estate.)  (This family is different than the Robinson’s associated with Niʻihau.)

In 2004, NOAA divers in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands came across the two whaling vessel wreck sites at Pearl and Hermes Atoll.

The wreck of the Pearl lies seaward of the reef crest, but in the proximity of the surf zone, the Hermes site was to the west of the Pearl.

Artifacts were found at the sites, however they are quite deteriorated.  Large iron try pots (for rendering the whale blubber into oil,) blubber hooks, anchors, brick and iron ballast pieces and fasteners were found around each site.

Cannons (four from the Hermes and two from the Pearl) and numerous cannon balls indicate the nature of hazards faced during early 19th century whaling voyages to the Pacific.

© 2024 Hoʻokuleana LLC

Filed Under: Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks Tagged With: Hermes, Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, Papahanaumokuakea Marine National Monument, Pearl, James Robinson, Hawaii

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