General | Page 219 | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

July 12, 2017 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Polar Bears

Polar bears are found across the Arctic. Polar bears do not live in Antarctica – penguins do (penguins almost exclusively live in the Southern Hemisphere.)

Polar bears are most abundant in areas with annual sea ice and productive ringed seal populations. There are five nations with polar bears: US (Alaska,) Canada, Russia, Greenland (Kingdom of Denmark) and Norway.

People often see illustrations of penguins and polar bears together, but this does not happen in the wild.

In fact, the word Arctic comes from the Greek word for bear, and Antarctic comes from the Greek meaning the ‘opposite of the Arctic’ or ‘opposite of the (great) bear.’ (Polar Bear International)

Polar bears are very strong swimmers, and their large front paws, which they use to paddle, are slightly webbed. Some polar bears have been seen swimming hundreds of miles from land – though they probably cover most of that distance by floating on sheets of ice.

Polar bears live in one of the planet’s coldest environments and depend on a thick coat of insulated fur, which covers a warming layer of fat. Fur even grows on the bottom of their paws, which protects against cold surfaces and provides a good grip on ice.

The bear’s stark white coat provides camouflage in surrounding snow and ice. But under their fur, polar bears have black skin—the better to soak in the sun’s warming rays. (National Geographic)

Click HERE for a link to a Polar Bear Tracker Map.

Whoa … wait, this isn’t about those polar bears …

This is about Hawai‘i’s semi-pro football team called the ‘Honolulu Polar Bears.’ (They were also and later known as the Hawaiian Vacation Team and, ultimately, the Honolulu Bears.)

Semi-professional football thrived on the islands for years, as early as the early-1920s. (Franks) Island semi-pro football existed in the 1930s. (Cisco)

In pre-WWII, the semi-pro Hawaii Senior Football League consisted of the University of Hawaii, the Na Aliʻis, the Healani Maroons and the Honolulu Bears. (UH played semipro teams to fill out their schedule.) (Ardolino)

“The (UH) Deans (later, the Rainbows) have always been the team to beat in the Honolulu Senior Football League. With but two exceptions the local championship has gone either to the Town Team or the University.” (Ka Palapala, 1932)

Doyle Nave, “star passer (and Rose Bowl star) on the Southern California grid squad the last two years (went to Honolulu) to coach and play on the Honolulu Polar Bears, a professional grid squad.” (LA Times, September 25, 1940)

Another notable Bear was Jackie Robinson, who had played two years at UCLA where he became the only athlete in school history to letter in four sports (football, baseball, basketball, and track.) Francis J Brickner signed him to the team.

However, he quit school with one semester to go to pursue an athletic career full-time. Finding that mainland pro teams had no place for African-American players, Robinson responded positively to Brickner’s offer of $100 per game. (GoldenRankings)

Robinson left for Hawaiʻi on September 11, 1941 to play for the Honolulu Polar Bears semi-professional football team. “FJ (Brick) Brickner, manager of the Hawaiian semipro team …”

“… has guaranteed the ex-Bruins full round-trip transportation, all expenses for two months and a job in a defense industry in return for six scheduled games with other Honolulu teams.” (LA Times, September 12, 1941)

There, Robinson worked part-time on a construction job near Pearl Harbor. The Bears won 2-games, Robinson played quarter back, half back, and returned punts.

However, an injured ankle hampered his performance, and the Bears won only two games. When the team closed its season on December 3 by losing to Healani 19-13, rain and wind limited the crowd to 550. On December 5, 1941, Jackie sailed for California. (GoldenRankings)

Hawai‘i’s first professional sports franchise debuted in 1946. The Hawaiian Warriors were members of the Pacific Coast Football League – rival to the National League and the All-American Conference.

Ben Dillingham formed the Hawaiian Athletic Corporation, modeled after the successful Green Bay Packer program, selling stock at $10 a share to Hawai‘i fans, giving fans ownership of the team.

On December 5, 1947, Honolulu Stadium was host to the last game in league history – Hawai‘i romped San Francisco 45-7 before a small crowd of 6,000. (Cisco)

(On April 15, 1947 Jackie Robinson started at first base for the Brooklyn Dodgers in their opening-day game against the Boston Braves. In so doing, he became the first African-American to play in the major leagues since an abortive attempt at integration in 1884. (Schwarz))

(Playing football was not Robinson’s only sports experience in Hawaiʻi; immediately following the 1956 Worlds Series (that the Dodgers lost to the Yankees,) on October 12, 1956, the Dodgers went on a Japan exhibition tour.)

(Along the way, Robinson and the Dodgers stopped for pre-tour exhibitions in Hawaii with games against the Maui All-Stars, the Hawaiian All-Stars and the Hawaiian champion Red Sox. (Jackie Robinson died on October 24, 1972 at the age of 53.))

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July 11, 2017 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Oldest Living Object

“The school was opened at Punahou, July 11th, 1842, with fifteen scholars in attendance that day. During the first year there were thirty-four pupils, of whom fifteen were boarders, their ages varying from seven to twelve.”

“It was in that year (1842) that some of the pupils planted the old tamarind tree, which still stands in front of the ‘Rice Building.’” (Punahou Jubilee, 1891)

At the time of planting the tree was a seedling, about a year old. It descended from trees first brought to Hawai‘i in 1797 that were planted by Don Francisco de Paula Marin in Pauoa Valley. The species quickly became a favorite of early settlers and was planted on many old homesteads. (Punahou)

The tamarind tree is the oldest living object on the Punahou School campus. In those days, morning and evening student work supplied the school with corn and vegetables for the table. (Punahou)

“In the old time there was hardly less sunshine in the life at Punahou than at present. Nor was moral culture given in those times to the neglect of physical training.”

“The pupils were taught to labor; and their work brought good returns. Sometimes the labor was irksome; and boylike some of them would exclaim of the institution ‘Punahou-hoe-hoe.’”

“Sometimes the fruit produced was too carefully kept; and the refrain was ‘Bananas rot, which I have not.’ While the mission were obliged to practice strict economy, and were hardly able to bear the expense of starting the school, there were not the means to teach the manual arts, as there are hardly now the requisite means for such a purpose.” (Punahou Jubilee, 1891)

In 1941, Punahou prepared for its first centennial celebration; a Centennial Committee was formed. Great Great Granddaughter of Hiram and Sybil Bingham, Lydia Sutherland (my mother,) a graduate of the 1941 centennial class, served as the Student Chairman of the Centennial Committee.

“One hundred years ago a hot and tired woman, Sybil Bingham, bent under an unrelenting sun to pick up stones and pile them on a wall. She was doing her share of the work on a school for her children and the children of her fellow missionaries to the Sandwich Islands.”

“The whole story of the past century carries with it a message which we can take to heart. Faith attended the beginning of Punahou, faith that through knowledge might come understanding and from understanding a finer life. That same faith has led Punahou through the years, guiding its development, expansion and activity.” (The Friend, June 1, 1941)

“The occasion demands, however, a double vision. One looks backward over the past and gathers up the history of what has happened. To this man responds by honoring those who have labored so meritoriously and by giving heed to the lessons of success and failure experience teaches.”

“The other vision looks forward. It peers into the dark and unknown future, building into it a pathway upon which human beings may tread. Quite wisely have Punahou’s leaders looked both ways.” (The Friend, June 1, 1941)

“One Hundred Years, the Story of an Era, as this centennial pageant has been named, will be presented on a massive stage 175 feet long and 50 feet deep, which will he built on Alexander Field at Punahou School.” (The Friend, June 1, 1941)

One centennial event was in memory (and recognition of) the school’s tamarind tree – the Tamarind Derby, a centennial event that paid homage to the tamarind tree.

The Tamarind Derby was a gardening contest. It featured seedlings from the great tree that were distributed to Centennial attendees. Planted throughout O‘ahu, the seedlings were to be later measured to see who had grown the largest tree in one year’s time. (Punahou74)

The elementary children then brought out the year-old tamarind seedlings and placed them on the former Bingham Hall (1883 – 1959) lanai for sale while tamarind punch was served. (Punahou)

Those who bought the trees also bought the opportunity to compete in the “Tamarind Derby Race.” Entry was guaranteed for each registered seedling planted on the island of Oahu before July 31.

Annual tree inspections would be held for five years and prizes awarded to both the purchaser and the school’s Living Endowment fund for the best trees. A final inspection would be held in 1951 with $2,500 paid to Living Endowment in the name of the owner the winning tree.

But no derby winners would ever be named. With the bombing of Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941 more pressing matters came to occupy the minds of Hawai‘i’s people. (Punahou)

The derby was called off. On September 1, 1942 Dr. Shepard wrote to all derby entrants: “At the Centennial Celebration you kindly purchased a tamarind tree which was registered for the Tamarind Derby.”

“One of the conditions of the competition was that a written report be filed at the Punahou School office between May 1 and June 30, 1942, stating that the tree was ready for inspection. Since no one filed such report and since war conditions hinder or interfere so much with inspections, it has been decided to call off the race.”

“While we regret this necessity, we are pleased to announce that the Steward of the Race (Walter F. Dillingham) is contributing funds in addition to the $265.00 realized from the sale of trees to purchase $1,500.00 in War Bonds to be credited to the Scholarship Fund of Punahou School. We hope that this provision will be satisfactory to all who entered the Race.” (Punahou)

Punahou was quickly converted to wartime service. Immediately following the attack on Pearl Harbor, because a follow-on air attack was considered possible, Army Corps of Engineers Honolulu district engineer Lieutenant Colonel Theodore Wyman Jr moved his office from the Alexander Young Hotel to a preselected, less conspicuous location: the Tuna Packer’s Cannery at Kewalo Basin.

Realizing the vulnerability of the cannery, the district engineer sought a new headquarters location away from the coast. Faced
with the district’s increased construction work load, he needed a facility where he could immediately resume engineering operations.

The commanding general of the U.S. Army assumed the role of military governor. Shortly after midnight, only 18 hours after the Pearl Harbor attack, Wyman moved his headquarters to Punahou School.

A library room became the district engineer’s office; the reading room, the administrative office; the cleared book area was converted to sleeping spaces; and the basement became a temporary officers’ mess. The remaining district officers were set up in other buildings on campus. (Fitzgerald; HJH)

About two weeks after the attack, the small Pleasanton Hotel, across Punahou Street from the school, was rented to provide a larger mess and accommodations for military families prior to their evacuation to the Mainland. (Fitzgerald; HJH)

The tamarind tree still stands on the Punahou Campus, between Alexander Hall and Mamiya Science Center. (Punahou)

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Tamarind tree on left, at School’s first building, which was shaped like an ‘E’-Punahou

Tamarind Tree-Oldest Living Thing at Punahou-Punahou

Punahou-Girls-Court-of-the-E-Building-1877

President Arthur Hauck with several grounds employees, harvesting tamarind pods during the 1920s-Punahou

Seedling purchase tags from the 1941 -Tamarind Tree Derby Race’-Punahou

Dedication ceremony for the tamarind tree bench, a gift from the Class of 1941 for the Centennial celebrations-Punahou

Punahou School, Photograph attributed to Charles Burgess-1866-E bldg to left-Old School Hall right

Punahou Centennial Plaque-Hawaiian Historical Society

LSY-Punahou_Centennial_Committee

1940 Punahou Cheer’g Squad

July 7, 2017 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

John Thomas Waterhouse

John Thomas Waterhouse “was born in Berkshire, England, in 1816, and went to school at Wood House Grove boarding school in 1825. The school was a Methodist preacher’s son’s school. I attended that until I was 13 years of age.” He became a businessman.

“I will tell you how the spirit of trade first came upon me. A man was allowed to come on the play ground once a week, Saturdays, to sell notions, etc. I used to invest my little money in sundries which I bought from this man, and sell them again to my playmates during the week at an advance, on credit.”

“Well, I had made a little money, and had heard of the United States, and concluded to cross the Atlantic to (the US.) I had become infatuated with reading the life of John Jacob Astor, and I started out from England, April, 1833, with a determination to become a John Jacob Astor”. (Hawaiian Gazette, September 24, 1889)

Later, his father “was asked if he would head all of the missions of the South Pacific … and he said, ‘All right. I will take the position if I can take all of my family with me.’ Well, he had ten children and some of them were already married, so they all went down to Australia, where he had a Methodist Mission”. (Waterhouse)

Waterhouse “was in business in Hobert Town, Tasmania, for ten years, owning a large number of vessels, and I was a very active man in business there.”

“I had very poor health and was recommended to go to Honolulu, in the Sandwich Islands. Well, I went there in one of my own vessels and purchased the property where I now live.”

“That was in 1851, and from San Francisco I travelled backward and forward a great deal and improved very much in health, and I wish to say right here that the Sandwich Islands are really as fine islands as you can find anywhere in any part of the Pacific, and are known as the ‘Paradise of the Pacific.’” (Hawaiian Gazette, September 24, 1889)

He “started a general merchandise store (JT Waterhouse and Company) here in Honolulu. Had quite a few stores. … (He) was very fond of animals but he wanted to turn this to his benefit so he brought in a camel and he put it in the back yard of the store and if anybody bought so much merchandise, they were allowed to see the camel.”

“He used to make trips every year to England to buy merchandise and one night he had a dream of a carpet – a design on a carpet – so when he went to England, he had that made and he brought them back and sold them as “Waterhouse Dream Carpets” and they sold like hotcakes.”

“He also brought this lokelani (rose) pattern here – in china – and his friends there said, ‘Oh, what’s the good of bringing that cheap china to the Islands?’ He said, ‘I think it could go.’ And it did.” (Waterhouse)

He, “was very fond of animals but he wanted to turn this to his benefit so he brought in a camel and he put it in the back yard of the store and if anybody bought so much merchandise, they were allowed to see the camel.” (Waterhouse)

“There being no recognized coinage indigenous to the Hawaiian Islands, in 1862. JT Waterhouse began issuing tokens redeemable only at his facilities.”

“About the size of a silver dollar, they were of ‘white metal,’ one side bearing a portrait of King Kamehameha IV, the other bearing a beehive with the words ‘John Thomas Waterhouse, Importer’ encircling it, and the words ‘Hale Maikai’ (good house) below the beehive. The tokens were worth fifty cents at Waterhouse’s establishments. (HABS)

“(W)hen he went across the United States on a trip back to England, he noticed that Chicago was a very booming town and Cedar Rapids was a very booming town. He wanted to buy some property in one of the towns and he considered buying some property on Michigan Boulevard in Chicago but he couldn’t decide which town he should invest in, so he tossed a coin and it came out Cedar Rapids.” (Waterhouse)

He was “the owner of some of the finest blocks and most desirable property in and around Cedar Rapids, such as the ‘Waterhouse Block,’ ‘Grand Hotel,’ considerable residence property in the city, and residence with thirty-five acres northwest of city limits, etc.” (History of Linn County)

He owned several pieces of property in the downtown area, among them buildings on Queen Street, retail stores on King and Fort Streets, and a warehouse on Merchant Street. In addition, he was referred to as a “collector of halls,” being the owner of the Lyceum and Olympic Halls, which he lent for lectures and assemblies. (HABS)

“One time, when he thought the taxes were getting too high, he wrapped himself in English rags – so the story goes – and refused to pay his taxes. And so then he went away, back to England, and moved back to England himself but his family were left here.”

“He went back to England and he rented an estate somewhere in England and everything was going fine until the fox hunting season arrived and then they drove the hounds over his grounds and he was so furious he sold everything and came back to the Islands.” (Waterhouse)

“His personal success has been brilliant. His signal achievements spurred emulation, enriched the country and benefitted all. As a business man was a marvel.”

“In Hawaii he found opportunities and made the most of them. Mr. Waterhouse from a small beginning reached the top of the ladder commercially. In the wider field of the business arenas of the United States or Europe he could not but have become a conspicuous figure.”

“His matchless energy and rare abilities stamped him as a man in a million. … Mr Waterhouse is very wealthy. His fortune is estimated at several millions. He is one of the heaviest tax-payers in Honolulu; has investments in California and New York and owns much property at Cedar Rapids, la. He practically created that town.”

“Of the four children living two his sons, John and Henry, conduct the large establishment of JT Waterhouse; while the third son, William, is now in Cedar Rapids, where he manages his father’s affairs, and conducts the leading hotel that flourishing city, which included his father’s possessions. Their daughter, the wife Hon HW Rice, is a resident of Kauai.” (Hawaiian Star, January 5, 1895) He died at his home in Nuʻuanu on January 8, 1895.

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John Thomas Waterhouse-Token

July 4, 2017 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Independence Day

Today, Americans celebrate the anniversary of the signing of America’s Declaration of Independence.

Independence Day celebrates the adoption of the Declaration of Independence on July 4, 1776, declaring independence from the Kingdom of Great Britain.

However, the freedoms, rights and privileges we share because of this event continue to be protected by the sacrifices of many men and women across the globe; we honor and celebrate their service, as well.

At the time of the signing of the Declaration of Independence, the American Revolutionary War was already underway (1775-1783.)

Drafted by Thomas Jefferson between June 11 and June 28, 1776, the Declaration of Independence is the nation’s most cherished symbol of liberty and Jefferson’s most enduring monument.

The political philosophy of the Declaration was not new; its ideals of individual liberty had already been expressed by John Locke and the Continental philosophers.

What Jefferson did was to summarize this philosophy in “self-evident truths” and set forth a list of grievances against the King in order to justify before the world the breaking of ties between the colonies and the mother country.

Fifty-six men from each of the original 13 colonies signed the Declaration of Independence – they mutually pledged “to each other our lives, our fortunes and our sacred honor.”

Nine of the signers were immigrants, two were brothers and two were cousins. Eighteen of the signers were merchants or businessmen, 14 were farmers and four were doctors. Twenty-two were lawyers and nine were judges.

The average age of a signer was 45. Benjamin Franklin was the oldest delegate at 70; the youngest was Thomas Lynch Jr of South Carolina at 27.

The British captured five signers during the war. Edward Rutledge, Thomas Heyward and Arthur Middleton were captured at the Battle of Charleston in 1780. George Walton was wounded and captured at the Battle of Savannah; Richard Stockton was incarcerated at the hands of British Loyalists.

Eleven signers had their homes and property destroyed. Francis Lewis’s New York home was razed and his wife taken prisoner. John Hart’s farm and mills were destroyed when the British invaded New Jersey, and he died while fleeing capture.

Fifteen of the signers participated in their states’ constitutional conventions, and six – Roger Sherman, Robert Morris, Benjamin Franklin, George Clymer, James Wilson and George Reed – signed the US Constitution.

Here are some other brief Revolutionary War highlights (and some other July 4 events:)

1775
March 23 – Patrick Henry’s “Give me liberty or give me death” speech
April 18 – The rides of Paul Revere and William Davis
April 19 – Minutemen and redcoats clash at Lexington and Concord “The shot heard round the world”
June 17 – Battle of Bunker Hill (Boston) – the British drive the Americans
Throughout the year, skirmishes occurred from Canada to South Carolina

Initially, fighting was through local militias; then, the Continental Congress established (on paper) a regular army on June 14, 1775, and appointed George Washington as commander-in-chief.

The development of the Continental Army was a work in progress, and Washington used both his regulars and state militia throughout the war.

1776
January 15 – Thomas Paine’s ‘Common Sense’ challenged the authority of the British government and the royal monarchy
March 17 – the British evacuate Boston

1777
April 26 – Sybil Ludington (16 years old) rode through upstate New York to warn militia that British troops were raiding and burning Danbury, Connecticut

Ultimately, on September 3, 1783, the war ended with the signing of the Treaty of Paris. The treaty document was signed by John Adams, Benjamin Franklin and John Jay (representing the United States) and David Hartley (a member of the British Parliament representing the British Monarch, King George III).

On June 21, 1788, the US Constitution was adopted (with all states ratifying it by that time.)

John Adams, Thomas Jefferson and Charles Carroll were the longest surviving signers of the Declaration of Independence. Adams and Jefferson both died on July 4, 1826, the 50th anniversary of the Declaration of Independence; Carroll was the last signer to die – in 1832 at the age of 95.

“As is apt to be the case wherever on earth or at sea there are Americans, Independence Day was celebrated. At Honolulu, Saturday, July 4, 1818 …”

“… there was a dinner provided by Mr. Warren, at which were about twenty white men and the principal chief of the island, Bokee. There were a number of appropriate toasts drunk to American Independence. The day and evening were spent in mirth and harmony.” (Hunnewell)

On July 4, 1894, the Republic of Hawai‘i was established at Ali‘iōlani Hale; Sanford B. Dole became its first president.

July 4, 1913 – Duke Kahanamoku established three new West Coast records in swimming, winning the 50-yard, 440-yard and 220-yard races in a San Francisco regatta.

“He started in five events, won them all, established new records and, besides this, won the last lap of the relay race, which of necessity gave him another victory, though in this he was aided by his other three mates.” (San Francisco Call, July 6, 1913)

Following statehood of Hawaiʻi, the new flag of the United States of America, containing a union of 50 stars, flew for the first time at 12:01 am, July 4, 1960, when it was raised at the Fort McHenry National Monument in Baltimore, Maryland.

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Declaration of Independence

June 30, 2017 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Canoeing Nāpali in 1845

“The full moon was flooding with its light the grand mountains, the valley and the bay. Not a sound broke the stillness save the gentle splashing of the waves as they broke on the beach. A short walk brought me to the house where the crew of my canoe were sleeping.”

“At was with some difficulty that I roused them up, and got them to move along. … After a delay of an hour and a half, we shoved off through the surf and directed our course toward Waimea.”

“A light breeze sprang up, and the houses and beach of Hanalei were soon lost in the distance. The coast which we were passing was too dim for us to distinguish objects on shore, but as I had ridden past it shortly before, I did not particularly regret this.”

“The sun was just rising when we reached the point where the great Palis or precipices begin. These precipices are one of the grandest wonders of the Islands, but the danger of examining them on the passage deters many persons from visiting them.”

“There are those who will travel by land sixty miles around rather than sail these fifteen by canoe, and I was warned not to try. But with me curiosity was stronger than caution.”

“I must confess that when we passed the last landing, and were fairly entering on the dangerous part, I felt a little timid, for if any accident should happen, there was no help for us. The rocks rose perpendicularly from the water without any landing place, and if upset, the only hope would be the chance of being picked up by some passing canoe.”

“In fact a canoe making the passage was capsized a few days before and her cargo lost. The natives, however, are so expert that they have little or no fear at such times; the canoe was soon righted, and the man’s escape with his life was considered hardly worth talking about.”

“We had not sailed far along the pali, when we came near sharing a similar fate. By some careless maneuver of the natives, the out-rigger, which serves to balance the canoe, rose clear out of the water. In a moment more, if all hands had not thrown their weight on that side, we should have been in the sea. …”

“As the canoe passed on, the cliffs grew more and more lofty. The sea was smooth and there being no wind, our passage was pleasant, giving us an opportunity to examine the varying appearances of the pali. The sea was dashing up against the base of the precipice, and roaring through the caves, which have been worn by the constant action of the waves.”

“The summit of the mountain took the most wild and fantastic shapes. Sometimes sharp spires shot up hundreds of feet, and again a rounded battlement would present its front like a turreted citadel of feudal days, and then a deep valley but a few rods wide might be seen, shut in by steep walls.”

“It is no wonder that the natives give credence to the wild legends which are connected with various points of this range.”

“A few of these I will relate as they were repeated to me, while we sailed along, and served to beguile the tediousness of the voyage. As the canoe was passing a rock that seemed blackened by volcanic fires, the captain gave orders to stop, and to paddle close in to the rocks.”

“As we drew near, he pointed out an arch large enough to admit a small canoe. The water within, being confined, was agitated so that I did not care to venture in, but went near enough to see that it was a kind of volcanic chimney.”

“Its inner walls showed the effects of the mighty fires, and from an aperture on the top of the bluff, the light came straggling down, giving the place a weird look.”

“The tradition is that Pele came to these Islands from some foreign land, that Kauai was the first island that she visited, and that she landed at the very spot that I have just described. She tried the foundations of the Island, to ascertain if there was a sufficient quantity of food to be obtained, and this pit or chimney is the place where she descended.”

“She commenced her operations, but soon found that the water was in too close proximity for her convenience. For she and old Neptune were deadly enemies, and in their contests exhibited the fiercest rage, to the destruction of all who might be involved in it. Not liking this situation, she moved on from island to island, till she finally settled on Hawaii.”

“In another place two small, upright rocks are called “the children,” who, it is said, wandered up to the heights, and there perished from thirst, were deified, and became objects of worship.”

“When we had passed about two-thirds of the pali we came to a little bay making in between two arms or points of land, on the shore of which we noticed several canoes, and a few miserable huts.”

“As the morning was well advanced, I consented that the men should land to refresh themselves with rest and food, and while they were doing this I strolled around to see the place. It would answer well for a place of detention, for there is no visible way of ingress or egress except by water, and yet there is a way for those who have sufficient nerve to brave the danger.”

“As we came along, I had noticed a sort of ladder placed against the face of the cliff, for the purpose of reaching the heights above. A native presented himself as a guide, and I let him lead the way. Starting off, I had no doubt that I was going to ascend the ladder at once, but I had taken but a few steps before I found myself halting and reconnoitering.”

“The way which had appeared so easy, now showed itself full of danger. The path has been excavated by the natives with their rude tools, from the face of an overhanging cliff. It is not a level, but is formed like a gouge turned edgewise, so that one’s hold is very precarious.”

“It is also too low to dmit of any other than a stooping posture, and I was obliged to shuffle along with the utmost caution. My guide seemed quite at home, as he stood upright outside of me, with his body projecting beyond the surface of the cliff, and encouraged me on.”

“I had taken off my shoes, and by degrees had worked myself two-thirds past, when I rested for a survey. There I was, my chief support a little projecting stone, not sufficient to afford a hold for my whole foot, and my hands clinging with a death grasp to the rock, and in this situation overhanging a gulf, that was foaming and boiling, as the surf broke over the rocks some sixty or seventy feet below me, and which would have proved my death place, if I had made the least mistake or slip.”

“I had strong curiosity to go forward, but discretion prevailed, and I returned. I was then told that few white men had gone as far as I had, and that none had ever passed up the ladder. Taking a less dangerous standpoint, I took occasion to examine the ladder. It is made of trunks of two cocoanut trees, one of which stands against the cliff, and the other out from it, like planting the side of a ladder against a house.”

“The outer stick is well secured with ropes, and is the only means of communication between above and below. The natives pass up by it, even with a load, as unconcerned as if passing by the best bridge. It is surprising to see even the children pass it free and unconcerned, as if on level ground. I can only wonder that there is not an accident every day.”

“A few rods back from the beach rise the cliffs, in some places perpendicular for 500 feet, forming an amphitheater. Along the base on one side are ranged the houses, which form a striking contrast with the black mass of rock rising behind them.”

“All their food comes from above, where it is said there is a fine valley (Nualolo,) which the feet of white men have never profaned. Here, shut out from all intruders, they live in peace and happiness, such as it is—pleasure today—borrow no thought for tomorrow.”

“When His Majesty passes around the island, he stops here for a part or the whole of the night, to see an exhibition of fire works, got up for his entertainment. It consists in throwing light poles, which have been set on fire, from a lofty peak (Kamaile) overlooking the sea. If skillfully thrown, they will go along distance, making a pretty show. The natives sometimes take a large bird, and set it off with some burning substance attached to it.”

“This little bay is the gathering place for canoes passing between Waimea and Hanalei, as well as for those that go over to the island of Niihau, which can be seen here at a distance of about 25 miles.”

“Having spent about an hour at this place, we again took our seats in the canoe, and continued our voyage towards Waimea. Our company was now increased to four canoes, ours being the largest, and there was something of a contest as to which should lead, but I believe that when so inclined, we could distance the others. The three other canoes were bound for Niihau. “

“One of them was quite small, containing only three persons, a man and two women, who handled their paddles like professional rowers.”

“The top of the canoe was covered with mats firmly secured, with openings left just large enough to admit their bodies, but at best it was a slight affair to stand the rough seas in the channel.”

“As we were passing by a very high bank, I noticed the figure of a native sketched upon it. This was very distinct, its limbs, its brown skin and a white cloth wrapped around its loins, and reminded me of rocks found at home, which had been marked by the Indians. I was quite surprised when a shrill whistle and a beckoning movement of one arm dispelled the illusion. It was a young native who was standing against the face of the rock, watching us.”

“After paddling five or six hours, including stops, we passed the further extremity of the Palis in safety, and the whole appearance of the land immediately changed—from lofty and fantastic peaks and precipices to a barren, uninteresting sand beach, on which we tried to land for water, but found the surf too heavy. … “

“Meanwhile there was not a breath of wind, the sun was pouring down his scorching rays, and the sea like a mirror reflected them with blinding intensity. The men, however, seemed perfectly indifferent as to the length of the voyage.”

“For an hour we had a most disagreeable sail along a monotonous sand flat. At last we came in sight of the cocoanut trees near Waimea, and I urged the men, but in vain. Suddenly a strong wind arose.”

“The sea was soon running very high and covered with white-caps, and every few minutes it broke over us, half filling the canoe. … It having become dangerous to proceed, I ordered that the canoe should be beached, which was done with difficulty and danger, but we were safe. Waimea was nine miles away, and the distance had to be walked.

“About 4 o’clock p. m. I arrived, tired and hungry, at the hospitable residence of Rev. S. Whitney, the missionary of this station, where a most cordial welcome, a good bath and a warm supper did much to refresh me.”

“I had been twelve hours in the canoe, where I could neither lie down nor sit up with any degree of comfort, and as I had expected to be at Waimea to breakfast, I had not brought any food with me except a few dry crackers.”

“Besides, after the wind rose and particularly in getting ashore, I was wet through. But after a good night’s rest I rose quite refreshed. After breakfast Mr. Whitney showed me his vineyard, which is the best on this island.”

“The first plants were introduced by the Russians.” (The information here is completely from an account made by Gorham D Gilman, canoeing across the Nāpali Coast of Kauai, August 19, 1845.)

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