Kohala | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

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October 15, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Lapakahi State Historical Park

Lapakahi (“single ridge”) State Historical Park is the archaeological site of the remains of a traditional Hawaiian fishing community. It was believed to have been inhabited about 600-700-years ago (1300s.)

Lapakahi was a place of the maka‘āinana, the fishermen and farmers. They worked to sustain the resources and support their families.

The rolling hills and gulches sheltered this cove from the strong Kohala wind. The sea was rich in food and the soil nurtured their crops. Black stone walls and thatched roofs soon appeared on the landscape.

As the village prospered, the families moved inland to grow their crops of kalo (taro) and ‘uala (sweet potato). Families along the shore (makai) traded fish for kalo from the uplands (mauka).

Pa‘akai (“salt from the sea” – for seasoning and preservative for food) was taken mauka while olonā plants were brought makai to make nets and fishing line. A trail curbed with stones connected mauka and makai and the people of Lapakahi travelled this trail exchanging the resources of the land and sea.

Parts of this former village have been partially restored but most of the rocky walls and remains are original. Today, this 265-acre State Park is the site of an ancient Hawaiian settlement located along the shoreline of the North Kohala coastline.

A self-guided tour takes visitors over marked trails (with a free guide brochure) and leads them through several acres of this historic village.

Highlighted sites include house sites and a canoe halau (long house); runs through a game area where visitors can try spear throwing, ‘ulu maika (disc rolling) and konane (checkers); and leads to a fishing shrine and salt pans along the rocky shoreline.

Lava stone walls formed the lower portion of the homes and shelters built here. Wooden poles supported the pili grass roofs and walls. Trees, bushes, grass and rocks were all used as food sources or utensils for building, cooking or fishing.

In 1979, the nearshore waters were added to the Marine Life Conservation District (MLCD) system under DLNR. Within Koaiʻe Cove are two small beaches consisting of coral rubble (there is no sand beach). The cove provides the easiest access to the water.

The nearshore bottom is mostly boulders and lava fingers with some coral. The cove’s northern portion has some good coral growth close to shore, but coral and fish are most abundant in the southern portion. Considerable marine life is also found around the outcropping of rocks to the right of the cove’s center.

There is a remarkable diversity of fish species within the MLCD, as nearly all nearshore species typical of the North Kohala coast are represented. During the winter, humpback whales are frequently spotted just offshore.

Near the entrance to the park is an educational display of implements used by the ancient villagers. Pick up the guide brochure and take the self-guided tour through the marked trails at your convenience.

The Park is located on the northwestern coast of Hawaiʻi; Lapakahi is about 12 miles north of Kawaihae. Take Hwy 270 north from Kawaihae to Lapakahi State Historical Park. The park entrance is on the left side of the highway, and marked with a sign. Parking is available at the end of the road. (Lots of information here from DLNR.)

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Reconstructed hale (house) at the village of Lapakahi

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April 26, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Bond Historic District

The Bond Historic District is in the rural, agricultural area south of the town of Kapaʻau, North Kohala, on the Island of Hawaiʻi.

The buildings are grouped in three sections – The Bond Homestead (established in 1841 by Boston missionary Reverend Elias Bond,) Kalāhikiola Church (completed in 1855) and Kohala Seminary (Kohala Girl’s School – complex founded in 1872.)

The Reverend and Mrs. Bond sailed with the Ninth Company of Missionaries from Boston and settled at Kohala, Hawai‘i. Bond arrived in Honolulu in May of 1841. They were then assigned to Kohala.

Reverend Isaac Bliss, an elderly missionary in Kohala, had already completed the main house of what is known as the Bond Homestead compound when Bond arrived in Kohala in June 1841.

To provide employment to the people in the region and support his church and schools, Reverend Bond founded Kohala Sugar Company, known as “The Missionary Plantation,” in 1862.

Reportedly, by 1885, Bond, who gave all his dividends and profits beyond his living expenses to the Board of Missions, was their largest single contributor. The plantation was shut down in 1973.

The heart of the Bond District is the Bond Homestead located in makai portion of the property. The Homestead consists of two residential buildings, one doctor’s office and several out buildings. The buildings contain many historic furnishings and artifacts dating from 1844.

The area is described in an 1849 account (in ‘The Island World of the Pacific’) as follows: “It stands in the center of an area of some five or six acres, enclose with a neat stone wall, and having a part of it cultivated as a garden, adorned with flowering shrubs and trees, as the pineapple, guava, acacia, mimosa, tamarind, kukui, mulberry, geranium, banana, Pride of China, sugar cane, etc.”

“The house is thatched with long leaves of the hala-tree (Pandanus), and has a very pretty, neat appearance, in connection with that tasteful keeping of the walks and grounds, like the pictures we have of thatched cottages and rural scenes of Old England.”

Kalāhikiola Church is located on a gently sloping site in the middle section of the property. The structure was a rectangular building made of lava rock walls.

Kalāhikiola (“the life-bringing sun” or “the day bringing salvation”) is the name of a small hill on the side of the Kohala Mountain; the name goes back to the time of the arrival of the first Christian missionaries. ‘Ōhi‘a timbers from forests on the hill were used in building the church; so when the church was consecrated on October 11, 1855 it was appropriately given the name Kalāhikiola.

In 2006, an earthquake severely damaged the building. In the restoration, the congregation decided to remove the stone walls entirely, shore and brace the building, and erect new walls of reinforced concrete, which was then plastered and scored with mortar lines to resemble the church’s original exterior.

The Kohala Girl’s School was Reverend Bond’s last major undertaking. For 30-years prior to the 1874 founding of the Kohala Girl’s School, Reverend Bond ran a boarding school for boys. His decision to build a separate facility to educate native Hawaiian women in Christian living and housekeeping was made in 1872.

The Kohala Seminary (Kohala Girl’s School) is located mauka of Kalāhikiola Church; it consists of six wood frame buildings scattered over approximately 3 acres.

The main residence building is a generally rectangular two-and-one-half story structure; the building was constructed in 1874 and was used as dormitory and classroom space. In 1955, the school stopped functioning.

In addition to the missionary work and founding and operating the school, the Bonds had 11-children born in Hawai‘i.

The District is listed on both the State of Hawai’i and the National Registers of Historic Places.

Many years ago, I had the good fortune to have been able to tour the Bond Homestead with Lyman Bond, great grandson of Reverend Elias Bond. It was a wonderful experience to have a descendent relate stories of the people and the place.

My brother-in-law, Paul Morgan, while studying architecture, did extensive review of the Kohala Girls School structures; he gave me a tour of the Girls School.

New Moon Foundation acquired acreage in and around the Bond Historic District. The purchase agreement included covenants specifying that real property located in the Bond Homestead is of historic significance and should be preserved and protected.

The buildings have been restored and put into education adaptive reuse; the site is now known as the Grace Center of the Kohala Institute at ‘Iole. Kohala Institute’s effort in restoring Grace Center was recognized by the Historic Hawai‘i Foundation with a 2017 Historic Preservation Honor Award.

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Grace Institute at Iole

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A Kohala Seminary student poses with her ukulele in this 1912 photo

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Damage to Kalahikiola Church in 2006 earthquake

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Kalahikiola Church-after restoration-(MasonArchitects)

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October 3, 2018 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Puakea

Patrick Kirch has convincingly argued that Polynesians may not have arrived to the Hawaiian Islands until at least AD 1000, but expanded rapidly thereafter. The initial settlement in Hawai‘i is believed to have occurred from the southern Marquesas Islands. (Rechtman)

The earliest date range for permanent settlement in Kohala (AD 1300) was obtained from Koai‘e, a coastal settlement where subsistence primarily derived from marine resources. According to Tomonari-Tuggle, these resources were probably supplemented by small-scale agriculture. (Rechtman)

“(O)ne of the most obvious settlement forms along the leeward coast [of Kohala] is the houselot, a low-walled rectangular compound with an interior house platform” which is likely a historic habitation pattern established in the early nineteenth century.” (Tomonari-Tuggle; Rechtman)

There was also “the massive field system [the Kohala field system] which sweeps across the leeward slopes of Kohala [and] reaches the coast [at the northern end]”. The Kohala field system once stretched from the shore to the inland edge of the mountain forest.

The field system was characterized by low walls oriented cross-slope to block the prevailing winds with mauka/makai trails demarcating the narrow strips of field areas. (Tomonari-Tuggle; Rechtman)

Traditional land use patterns saw a rapid shift after the Māhele in 1848. At this time, land ownership was defined by grants and awards by the king (Kamehameha III) to the chiefs and other retainers.

By 1850, laws were enacted under which commoners could also own land (kuleana) if they could prove that they actually occupied those lands. The Māhele paved the way for land to be sold to foreigners. (Rechtman)

On July 18, 1873, Princess Ruth, granted to Henry Christiansen several parcels of land including in North Kohala. (Kohala Corp v State) He started a sheep ranch, apparently calling it Puakea Ranch.

Christiansen also planted some sugar cane, the milling of which was apparently not too successful with the crude equipment of that time. (Henke)

Dr. James Wight acquired the Puakea Ranch lands about 1875 and continued with the sheep ranch (having a herd of about 7,000 head of the Merino breed).

In about 1886, Wight imported two Maltese jacks at a cost of $1,400 and he was probably one of the first men to breed mules in Hawaii.

Sheep herding suffered due to various factors and cattle were substituted for the sheep in the 1880s; there were few or no sheep left after 1890.

Two Shorthorn bulls were imported from California and bred to the native cattle and Shorthorn blood predominated on Puakea Ranch till 1901, although some Hereford blood was introduced as early as 1889.

During the next twenty years Hereford blood gradually replaced the Shorthorns. At the time, beef had little value and many cattle were sold as work oxen for the cane fields. Wight died in 1905, and the ranch was operated by trustees of his estate. (Henke)

Nearby was Pu‘uhue, a cattle ranch was started about 1880; James Woods then being the owner and manager. Pu‘uhue had 4,000-5,000 cattle at that time, which roamed over much of the Puakea section on a rental arrangement.

At about 1906, Puakea and Pu‘uhue merged into what was called Puakea Ranch. These combined ranches ran from the sea to an elevation of about 4,000 feet and had a total area of about 25,000 acres and about 5,000 Herefords, 350 light horses and 10 Berkshire sows. Good Hereford bulls as well as females were imported from time to time.

Cattle were marketed from two years of age to about five (about 450 to 650 pounds dressed weight). About 500 to 600 were shipped to Honolulu annually (loaded at Kawaihae), with an additional 180 slaughtered on the ranch for consumption in the Kohala district.

In about the 1940s Parker Ranch purchased Puakea Ranch (and later sold portions that were subsequently developed into the Puakea Ranch subdivision, along the Kohala Coast).

OK, that’s the ‘ranch’ side of ‘Puakea’; Puakea Planting Company ran the sugar planting and production.

“There was filed for record at the Registrar’s office today a document transferring one-half interest in the Puakea Planting Co. situated in the Kohala District, owned by Mrs Eliza V Mackenzie, to Howard R. Bryant, for the sum of $16,025.”

“Mrs Mackenzie and Howard R. Dry–Bryant formed the Puakea Planting Company about five years ago, and started the growing of cane on the lands owned by Dr. James Wight. … The cane grown on this property is ground at the Hawi Mill.”

“There are some five or six thousand acres of land suitable for cane cultivation and it is the intention of the Puakea Planting Co to enlarge as soon as the water reaches the land.”

“The Kohala planters and the Kohala Ditch Company have been dickering for the past row moths regarding terms of which water is to be delivered, but a settlement of all differences has now practically been reached.” (Evening Bulletin, September 10, 1904)

Later, “Articles of incorporation were filed by the Puakea Plantation Co., Ltd., of Kohala, Hawaii. The incorporators with the offices held are as follows: John Hind, president; W. S. May, vice president; H. R. Bryant, treasurer; A. Mason, secretary, and Robert Hall, director. “

“The company has taken over the planting interests of what was heretofore known as the Puakea Planting Company and which are situated on the lands belonging to the estate of James Wight just above Mahukona.”

“The advent of the Kohala ditch has brought out a greater development of these lands and the present corporation will raise in the neighborhood of 4000 tons of sugar annually, after two or three years’ development. “

“The present output of sugar on the planting interests taken over is something about 900 tons. Henry Waterhouse Trust Co., Ltd., organized the company.” (Hawaiian Gazette, May 28, 1907)

The ditch was conceived of by John Hind who, with the financial help of Sam Parker and the irrigation knowledge of JT McCrosson and MM O‘Shaughnessy, formed the Kohala Ditch Company.

They hired Japanese laborers for wages of seventy-five cents to a dollar and a half a day to construct the twenty-one mile long ditch from the headwaters of the Kohala valleys to Puakea Plantation (in upland Kukuipahu Ahupua‘a).

The ditch ran through miles of ridge terrain, valleys, and forty-four tunnels. Seventeen laborers died during the construction of the Kohala Ditch. It carried twenty million gallons of water a day at the outset, with a projected maximum of seventy million gallons a day, to the sugar fields and ranch lands of North Kohala. (Rechtman)

In the 1930s, the Kohala Sugar Company was expanded by the consolidation of smaller plantations under the agency of Castle & Cooke (Puakea, Niuli‘i, Halawa, Hawi and Kohala Sugar). In 1975, Castle & Cooke closed Kohala Sugar. (Wilcox)

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June 10, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kamehameha Takes A Walk

“The subject of interest which engrossed attention this week, was the question of the location of the second statue of Kamehameha the Conqueror, which we were officially (or rather Royally) informed is designed for Kohala, and very rightly so, as this was his birth-place.”

“At the request of the Governess, who has recently been paying us a visit, a committee was selected to decide upon the site upon which the statue shall be erected upon its arrival.”

“This committee, consisting of twenty-four members, met on the 22d, at the Court-house, in Kapaau, to discuss the question of location. Among the members were the following foreigners: Messrs. Vida, Woods. Chapin, Kenton, Holmes, Atkins, Smith, Sheldon, Ewart, and others who did not put in an appearance.”

“The native members consisted of the Police Magistrate, who acted as chairman, native lawyers, and sugar planters. Various locations were suggested and their claims and advantages warmly advocated.”

“Among others, the respected birth-place of the grand old King, near Kohala Plantation, called Halaula; Hapuu, near Halawa. where he was raised, and his favorite dwelling place, on the bluff near which he stood and marshalled the fleet of war canoes for the expedition which resulted in the final conquest of Maui; and Niulii, at the Eastern end of the District.”

“It was finally decided by an almost unanimous vote, that the statue shall be placed at a point nearly central of the District, on an elevation in the land of Ainakea, near the Government road, and almost equidistant from the Star Mill and that of Kohala Plantation.”

“If placed on a high pedestal it can there be seen front a long distant in every direction.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, March 31, 1883)

Initially, “On the grounds of the Ainakea school, near by, is a statue of the first Kamehameha.” (Anglo-American Magazine, September 1901)

Later, attempts were made to relocate the Kohala statue. “Kaniho presented an amendment providing $500 for the removal of the statue of Kamehameha from its present location in Kohala to the Court house yard. He said the statue was now in a neighborhood where nobody lived and the people of Kohala had petitioned for its removal as they had to deck it with wreaths.”

“Lewis opposed the scheme saying the statue was in a school yard where children could see it and would always be reminded who their great chief was.”

“Chillingworth asked if the statue was not on the birth place of Kamehameha, and replied that It was ten
miles distant.”

“Aylett disputed the statement, saying he was present when the statue was unveiled and it was said at that time that this was Kamehameha’s birth place.”

“Keliinoi moved an amendment to move the statue to Lahaina. Pulaa said the statue had already traveled a good deal; when it was on the way out it fell overboard and when recovered the statue was minus an arm.”

“‘If the money appropriated the statue will be on the move again,’ he said. Both Home Rulers and Republicans voted in favor of the removal.”

“‘The birth place of Kamehameha was in Kohala,’ said Pulaa. ‘I was not there, but my grandmother told me so.’”

“Kealawaa said the statue should not be disturbed. ‘It is not right to remove the statue,’ said he, ‘what is placed there should remain. It is just like this building. It should not be moved.’ Kaniho and Oili talked some more but the interpreter did not consider their remarks worth translating.”

“The motion lost 13 to 12.” (Hawaiian Gazette, July 3, 1903)

A year later, the newspaper noted in a page 1 headline, “Kamehameha To Take A Walk.”

“Kamehameha I’s statue in Kohala is going to be moved, not out of the district but to a position where it may be seen by the visitor.”

“By a relocation of the main road, involving a deep cut through a hill, the statue has been left out of sight of the passing way farer.”

“It is proposed therefore to remove it from its old site in front of the schoolhouse to a position in front of the courthouse.”

“As the statue is Territorial property the Board of Supervisors of Hawaii county asked the permission of the Superintendent of Public Works for Its removal. Mr. Holloway has compiled with the request.”

“The Kohala statue is the original. It was sunk at sea near Cape Horn in the vessel bringing it out from Europe.”

“After a replica, from the sculptor’s mould, had been procured to set up in Honolulu the original was fished out of the depths, brought to the islands and set up in Kohala, amidst the scenes of the great monarch’s earlier military exploits.” (Sunday Advertiser, March 24, 1904)

“To Move Statue Of Kamehameha – Relocation Of Main Road In Kohala Bars Attraction From View Of Visitors. The statue of Kamehameha the Great in Kohala is going to be moved to a position where It can be seen by visitors.”

“By a relocation of the main road the statue is cut off from the observance of wayfarers. The Public Works Department has granted the Hawaii Supervisors the right to move the attraction.” (Hawaiian Star, March 25, 1907)