Images of Old Hawaiʻi

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Island Summits

He ‘Ohu Ke Aloha; ‘A‘ohe Kuahiwi Kau ‘Ole
Love is like mist; there is no mountaintop that it does not settle upon

“… as the sun shining in his strength dissipated the clouds, we had a more impressive view of the stupendous pyramidal Mauna Kea, having a base of some thirty miles, and a height of nearly three miles.  Its several terminal peaks rise so near each other, as scarcely to be distinguished at a distance.”

“These, resting on the shoulders of this vast Atlas of the Pacific, prove their great elevation by having their bases environed with ice, and their summits covered with snow, in this tropical region, and heighten the grandeur and beauty of the scene, by exhibiting in miniature, a northern winter, in contrast with the perpetual summer of the temperate and torrid zones below the snow and ice.”

“The shores along this coast appeared very bold, rising almost perpendicularly, several hundred feet, being furrowed with many ravines and streams. From these bluffs, the country rises gradually, for a few miles, presenting a grassy appearance, with a sprinkling of trees and shrubs.”

“Then, midway from the sea to the summit of the mountain, appeared a dark forest, principally of the koa and ʻōhia, forming a sort of belt, some ten miles in breadth-the temperate zone of the mountain.”  (Bingham at first sight of the Islands, 1820)

And when you think about high elevation places in the Hawaiian islands, of course you have to talk about that basic dichotomy between the lower elevation places where people live.

And in old times, the lower elevations would have been called the Wao Kanaka. Wao being a word that means “zone” and “Kanaka” being a person. So the Wao Kanaka is a zone in which people belong.

When you rise above that zone, you enter into a realm in which all of the living things there are not there because of human activity. They flourish as the result of the activity of the gods, or the Akua. And so that zone is called the Wao Akua. And the transition from Wao Kanaka to Wao Akua is not taken lightly.  (Gon)

The Islands’ peaks are considered the piko (summit or center of the land) and are considered sacred.  The places upon which clouds nestle are considered wao akua, the realm of the gods.  Clouds cover the actions of the gods while they walk the earth. The higher the piko, the closer to heaven, and the greater the success of prayers. (Maly)

Let’s look at Hawaiʻi’s peaks, the highest point on each Island as we move down the Island chain.

Niʻihau – Pānīʻau (1,281-feet)

Ni‘ihau was formed from a single shield volcano approximately 4.89-million years ago, making it slightly younger in age than Kaua‘i. It is approximately 70-square miles or 44,800-acres.  It’s about 17-miles west of Kauaʻi.

Pānīʻau, the island’s highest point, is 1,281-feet; approximately 78% of the island is below 500-feet in elevation.   Located inside Kauai’s rain shadow, Ni‘ihau receives only about 20 to 40-inches of rain per year.  Ni‘ihau has no perennial streams.  (DLNR)

Kauai – Kawaikini (5,243-feet)

Geologically, Kauai is the oldest of the main inhabited islands in the chain. It is also the northwestern-most island, with Oʻahu separated by the Kaʻieʻie Channel, which is about 70-miles long. In centuries past, Kauai’s isolation from the other islands kept it safe from outside invasion and unwarranted conflict.

Near the summit (Kawaikini) is Waiʻaleʻale; in 1920 it passed Cherrapunji, a village in the Khasi hills of India, as the wettest spot on Earth (recording a yearly average of 476-inches of rain.)

Oʻahu – Kaʻala (4,025-feet)

The Waiʻanae Mountains, formed by volcanic eruptions nearly four-million years ago, have seen centuries of wind and rain, cutting huge valleys and sharp ridges into the extinct volcano.  Mount Kaʻala, the highest peak on the island of Oʻahu, rises to 4,025-feet.

Today, only a small remnant of the mountain’s original flat summit remains, surrounded by cliffs and narrow ridges. It’s often hidden by clouds.

Molokai – Kamakou (4,961-feet)

The island was formed by two volcanoes, East and West, emerging about 1.5-2-million years ago.  The cliffs on the north-eastern part of the island are the result of subsidence and the “Wailua Slump” (a giant submarine landslide – about 25-miles long that tumbled about 120-miles offshore – about 1.4-million years ago.)

Kamakou is part of the extinct East Molokai shield volcano, which comprises the east side of the island.   It and much of the surrounding area is part of the East Maui Watershed partnership and the Kamakou Preserve.  A boardwalk covers part of the rainforest and bog to protect the hundreds of native plants, birds, insects and other species there.

Lānai – Lānaihale (3,337-feet)

The island of Lānai was made by a single shield volcano between 1- and 1.5-million years ago, forming a classic example of a Hawaiian shield volcano with a gently sloping profile.  (SOEST)  The island of Lānai is about 13-miles long and 13-miles wide; with an overall land area of approximately 90,000-acres, it is the sixth largest of the eight major Hawaiian Islands.

“At the very summit of the island, which is generally shrouded in mist, we came upon what Gibson (an early (1861) Mormon missionary to the islands) called his lake – a little shallow pond, about the size of a dining table.  In the driest times there was always water here, and one of the regular summer duties of the Chinese cook was to take a pack mule and a couple of kegs and go up to the lake for water.”  (Lydgate, Thrum)

Maui – Haleakalā (10,023-feet)

Haleakalā was thought to have been known to the ancient Hawaiians by any one of five names: “Haleakalā,” “Haleokalā,” “Heleakalā,” “Aheleakalā” and “Halekalā.” (Hawaiʻi National Park Superintendent Monthly Report, December 1939)

Haleakalā is best known in stories related of the demi-god Māui; he is best known for his tricks and supernatural powers. In Hawaiʻi, he is best known for snaring the sun, lifting the sky, discovering the secrets of fire, fishing up the islands and so forth.  (Fredericksen)

Kahoʻolawe – Lua Makika (1,477-feet)

Kahoʻolawe is the smallest of the eight Main Hawaiian Islands, 11-miles long and 7-miles wide (approximately 28,800-acres;) it is seven miles southwest of Maui.  The highest point on Kahoʻolawe is the crater of Lua Makika at the summit of Puʻu Moaulanui, which is about 1,477 feet above sea level.

Located in the “rain shadow” of Maui’s Haleakalā, rainfall has been in short supply on Kahoʻolawe.  However, nineteenth century forestry reports mentioned a “dense forest” at the top of Kahoʻolawe.  Historically, a “cloud bridge” connected the island to the slopes of Haleakalā.  The Naulu winds brought the Naulu rains that are associated with Kahoʻolawe (a heavy mist and shower of fine rain that would cover the island.)

Hawaiʻi – Mauna Kea (13,796-feet)

Nani Wale ʻO Mauna Kea, Kuahiwi Kūhaʻo I Ka Mālie (Beautiful is Mauna Kea, standing alone in the calm) expresses the feeling that Mauna Kea is a source of awe and inspiration for the Hawaiian people. The mountain is a respected elder, a spiritual connection to one’s gods.   (Maly)

A significant pattern archaeologists note in their investigations is the virtual absence of archaeological sites at the very top of the mountain. McCoy states that the “top of the mountain was clearly a sacred precinct that must, moreover, have been under a kapu and accessible to only the highest chiefs or priests.”  (Maly)

ʻĀina mauna, or mountain lands, reflects a term used affectionately by elder Hawaiians to describe the upper regions of all mountain lands surrounding and including Mauna Kea.  (Maly)

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Helen Keller

Helen Keller (1880–1968) became blind and deaf due to illness before she was two. At seven she began learning language through an alphabet spelled into her hand by her teacher, Anne Sullivan.

On March 3, 1887, Sullivan went to Keller’s home in Alabama and immediately went to work. She began by teaching six-year-old Keller finger spelling, starting with the word ‘doll,’ to help Keller understand the gift of a doll she had brought along. Other words would follow.

In 1890, Keller began speech classes at the Horace Mann School for the Deaf in Boston. She would toil for 25 years to learn to speak so that others could understand her.  Keller had mastered several methods of communication, including touch-lip reading, Braille, speech, typing and finger-spelling.

Polly Thompson was her assistant after the death of Sullivan in 1936. Thomson spent 46 years with Keller.  Mary Agnes (Polly) Thomson was born in Glasgow, Scotland on February 20, 1885. In 1913, Thomson came to the United States for a long visit to an uncle who worked as a shoe manufacturer in Swampscott, Massachusetts.

On October 20, 1914, Thomson joined the household as secretary, eventually becoming Keller’s companion and interpreter. Polly helped Helen to communicate with the world despite her blindness and deafness.

Thomson and Keller formed a tremendous bond. They traveled together all over the world and spent countless hours at home responding to correspondence. The pair also, however, settled into a mostly quiet life. They were happy to escape to their respective rooms after dinner to spend the night reading their books.

In 1937 Helen Keller received a request to speak before the Hawai’i legislature for the blind of Hawai’i.  Helen and Polly were already planning a trip to Japan so, she noted, “I shall comply, as the boat stops there for a day.”

“A long cablegram from Honolulu, where [our boat] is to stop for a day. I am to speak before the legislature, urging them to provide a Bureau of Welfare for the blind of Hawaii and an adequate appropriation, and arrangements are being made for me to give an informal talk to the Honolulu Lions at a luncheon.”

“The welcoming committee at Honolulu sent me a cordial ‘Aloha’ by wireless this afternoon. Three times an inquiry has been cabled from there whether I would permit a broadcast of my speech for the people on seven other islands beside Hawaii, and three times I have signified my consent.”

“Whatever the trouble may be, the nearness of Hawaii is now a thrilling reality. Polly is whetting my impatience to reach that Blest Isle by recalling the blue, blue mountains round Honolulu which she saw years ago on a world cruise.”

“We arrived at Honolulu 6 A.M [April 6, 1937]. I was hardly up when a Braille copy of the program for the day was brought to me. I noted that two extra meetings had been put in between that of the legislature and the Lions’ luncheon. That meant remarks to be made on the spur of the moment.”

“Polly and I were on deck at 7 A.M. A committee headed by Commander Todd, aide to the governor of Hawaii, and including representatives of the blind, the deaf and the Lions, welcomed us.”

“The leis – veritable living jewels to my enraptured touch – were heaped upon me until my dress was completely hidden. From Polly’s enumeration of colors they must have had a rainbow glory-white, red, pink, orange, gold.”

“Their blended fragrances intoxicated me-gardenia, pekokee (very much like the scented wisteria), plumeria, mock orange – so that I forgot the weight and the heat of the flowers on my neck. The music of ‘Aloha Oe’ was in every word spoken, every kindness shown, on my first visit to Honolulu.”

“As we drove through the wide, pleasant streets I knew by smell it was a garden city. … Senators Elsie Wilcox, Mrs Cudingham and WJ Heen escorted Polly and me to the governor’s office in the building which was formerly the royal palace. Governor Poindexter greeted us cordially.  I was touched to learn that he had come out of hospital for the occasion.”

“He told me the office used to be Queen Liliuokalani’s bedroom, and that the representatives met downstairs in the sometime throne room. I said I had read her pathetic story as a young girl, and told how I shed tears hearing that the Hawaiians had shut themselves up and wept after her abdication.”

“Again the view from the windows held Polly entranced, and I could imagine how Her Majesty’s eyes must have rested upon their soft, luxuriant greenness with a poet’s intense love.”

“From the office several representatives escorted Polly and me to the House, where we were to speak.”  She started her talk, “For the first time, I know the full meaning of Hawaii.” “Speaking through Miss Thomson, Miss Keller voiced a plea for adequate legislative appropriations for work among the blind of the territory.”

“The response was encouraging, and I am sure the blind of Hawaii will obtain the Bureau of Welfare they need. I felt handsomely complimented when the legislature passed a long resolution extending to me a welcome on behalf of the people of Hawaii.”

“It was very interesting to address a legislative body representing widely different groups on the island – Chinese, Japanese, Hawaiians, Portuguese and Anglo-Saxon.”

“I believe they are working out slowly but surely a solution of interracial problems. Hawaii is fortunate in a geographical situation that sets it somewhat apart from the fettering prejudices and rabid nationalism which retard endeavors to achieve permanent peace.”

“As Polly and I were coming out of the palace we were surrounded by a large crowd of schoolboys and girls, and I was asked to say a few words to them from the balcony.”

“Afterwards we were taken to the Territorial School for the Blind and the Deaf, and fresh leis were rained upon me by delegates from the Honolulu Junior League, the Japanese Junior League, the Hospital Social Service, the Chamber of Commerce and the students.”

“Then I learned what those works of art meant – the wreath weavers rising at dawn, picking masses of blossoms and spending hours threading them together petal by petal. What a lavish, colorful welcome to bestow upon a visitor! And I counted between twenty and thirty leis round my neck.”

“I am sorry that the blind and the deaf are taught in the same school. The combination method does not produce the best results. For it imposes a heavier burden upon those who teach two entirely different groups of handicapped, and it is not possible to give each group the special attention it requires.”

“But I was delighted to find the Territorial School in spacious grounds where the students can exercise freely and develop happily, with beauty calling to the eye or the ear in mountain, sea, bird songs and brilliant vegetation.”

“The luncheon with the Honolulu Lions and the Business and Professional Women’s Club took place at Fuller Hall. Before I spoke the orchestra, led by one of my sightless fellows, sent out deep, sweet vibrations that I could feel a long way off.”

“Our charming hostess was the governor’s daughter, Helen Poindexter. His Excellency placed his automobile at our disposal for a ride round Honolulu. It had grown quite hot, and I was glad when we stopped at the pineapple factory, where we enjoyed the coolest, most delicious pineapple juice I had ever tasted.”

“To my regret I found we did not have time to pay our respects to the active volcano, Kilauea, but we drove far enough into the mountains to be overpowered by their magnificence. Polly said they seemed to float in an ocean of unearthly blue, and the rounded green slopes were beyond description.”

“I felt the car zigzag up corkscrew roads between hibiscus hedges, groves of palm and bamboo, pineapple fields and homes built on the summit or near it for the fascinating view in every direction.”

“Mr Palmer, who teaches the deaf, was of the party. Between his wealth of legend, history and Hawaiian names liquid with vowels, Polly’s color-filled fingers and the smells that flooded my nostrils I received a Niagara of impressions which I have not yet formulated.”

“We got out to visit Queen Emma’s summer palace with its wide cool rooms. I was permitted to touch the enormous beds on which the natives sleep, the cradle of the queen’s heir, her sewing table and her mat-weaving loom.”

“Then we walked into the ‘grass hut’ or pavilion where the king sought refuge from the cares of state. It had many windows as well as dry grass between strong, smooth bamboo logs.”

“What romance it suggested – revelers under the tender dreaming evening sky, graceful slender hula dancers, the ukulele sending its wistful notes out over the sea until the stoutest hearts succumbed to the love spell!”

“We drove on to the great Pali, or cliff, where Laihahee towered majestically close by; and the masses of white surf beating against the rock caught a rainbow glory in the sun.”

“On the exposed side a furious blast buffeted the car. Its vibration, which caused the windows to rattle, was startlingly like the roar of Niagara Falls which I have visited several times. I was told that wind had turned over a number of automobiles.”

“As we returned down the mountain a sudden pungent whiff made my heart jump with delight – the fragrance of eucalyptus trees which mingles with all my memories of Los Angeles.”

“Miss Poindexter drove us to the dock. Reluctantly we said good-by to the warmhearted friends who had made the day a sunburst of hospitality and pleasure for us, but their Alohas cheered us with the knowledge that we would be welcome if we came back for a longer stay.”

“Although Polly and I could scarcely stand from fatigue we went on deck for a glimpse of the beautiful harbor and Laihahee. People were waving to the ship, singing, shouting, the very automobiles seemed to honk ‘Aloha!’ until we were a long way from the shore.”

“When we entered our hot stateroom and saw leis piled high on our beds we groaned – in fact, I could have screamed. I was so surfeited with sweet smells and crazy to stretch out, I simply threw the wreaths on the floor. I understood as I had never before the painful effect of a dazzling spectacle too prolonged upon the eyes of those who see.”

“While we were having dinner in bed two boxes were brought in filled with an odorous miscellany of flowers which I was about to send away when a Braille label caught my finger tips. These are some of the lovely flowers that grow in Hawaii. Territorial School For The Deaf And The Blind.”

“I found they had with Aloha thoughtfulness fastened a Braille card to each blossom, giving its name and colors … All night I dreamed that I was being smothered with sweetness, and this morning I ache every time I recall the leis pressing upon my shoulders.”

“With twitching fingers Polly has done her best to spell the endless pen-written Honolulu messages, and with hands quite as tired I have gone over the Braille Alohas. Now I am oppressed by the prospect of thank you letters I am to write to Governor Poindexter, the school and many others ….”

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kailua-Kona in 1819

The expedition sailed from Toulon on the 17th of September 1817 … “Finally, (they) arrived at Havre on the 15th, (November 1820) … The duration of the voyage was therefore three years and two months nearly”.

“The principal object of the expedition commanded by Captain Freycinet, was the investigation of the figure of the earth, and of the elements of terrestrial magnetism; several questions of meteorology had also been suggested by the Academy as worthy of attention.”

“Although geography certainly formed but a secondary object in the voyage, it was natural to anticipate that so many experienced and zealous officers, well provided with excellent instruments, would not circumnavigate the globe without making some valuable additions to the existing tables of latitude and longitude.” They came to the Islands in August 1819.

“On the 5th of April 1819, the Uranie sailed from Guam; she cast anchor at Owhyhee, the largest of the Sandwich Islands, on the 8th of August: on the 16th she touched at Mowhee; on the 26th at Woahoo; and on the 30th, finally quitted that Archipelago for Port Jackson”. (Arago)

“It was on the 6th of August that we discovered the island of Owhyhee: we were only a short distance from it; and the land, which we expected to see of a prodigious height, appeared to us as of very moderate elevation.”

“An island which recalled so many unpleasant recollections, necessarily excited our attention; and every one fixed his eye on it. On a sudden, the thick clouds separating, which covered its regularly formed sides and enormous base; Mowna Kah stood, majestically before us ….”

“Karakakooa harbour is spacious and safe; the high mountains which protect it from the winds which blow most generally, namely, Cape Kovvrovva to the north, and Cape – to the south, prevent the sea from ever being very rough. The beach is good, and some buildings, and two considerably projecting piers, offer a secure shelter for shipping.”

“Kayerooa is the largest, most important, and most populous town of Owhyhee … The town of Kayerooa is of considerable extent; but the houses, or rather the huts, are at such distances from each other …”

“… particularly on the descent of the hill, as not to be at all connected with the part in the plain, in which there are some small beaten paths, which may pass as tolerable representations of streets and alleys.”

“There are some houses built of stone, cemented with mortar; the others are made of thin deals, with mats or leaves of palm-trees, closely tied together and made impenetrable to wind and rain.”

“The roofs are in general covered with sea-weed, which makes them wonderfully strong; while they are also very durable, owing to a few beams closely fitted and fastened with cords of the plantain tree.”

“The huts of Owhyhee appear to me the best that we have seen since we have been in these semi-barbarous regions. Almost the whole of them have only one apartment, ornamented with mats, calebashes, and some country cloths.”

“In that room fathers, mothers, boys, girls, and sometimes even hogs and dogs, all sleep together pele-mele: there the mothers offer their daughters to strangers; there the children learn, almost as soon as they are born, what they ought scarcely to know when they are grown up …”

“Two or three buildings, as seen from the roads (anchorage), have a good appearance, and make one rather regret that they are, as it were, solitary in the midst of ruins.”

“The most considerable is a storehouse distinguished by its white front from the other huts; it belongs to the King, who uses it as a sort of repository, without venturing to confide his treasures to its keeping; these he buries in cellars.”

“The second edifice is a morai, situated at the end of a jetty, projecting into the sea; the third is a house belonging to one of the principal chiefs of Riouriou, who had address enough, when he quitted the town, to get it consecrated (tabooed) in order to protect it from intruders and thieves.”

“I was given to understand, that whoever should endeavour to enter it, would be instantly put to death, and that the owner of the house was a very cruel and powerful man. The northern part of the town may perhaps consist of a hundred huts, most of which are only about three or four feet high, and six long ….”

“On reaching the shore, there is a large dock-yard directly opposite, in which a vessel was building, of forty tons burden. Near it are some sheds, which shelter from the rain and wind a prodigious number of canoes, both single and double, remarkably handsome and well finished.”

“They are made by means of an instrument called in this country toe, which may be compared to a carpenter’s adze, though much smaller, and fit to be used by one hand.”

“Our cabinet-makers do not polish the most costly furniture better; and without planes or any of the tools employed by our workmen, those of Owhyhee are capable of competing with the best artisans of Europe.”

“The inside of the bottom of their boats, as far as the thwarts, is painted black, and polished till it becomes very bright, by means of a yellow flower which is found all over the island.”

“The largest canoe was a single one, seventy-two feet long, and three in its greatest breadth. The threads with which the planks were sewed o=together and with which the other parts of the canoes and their outriggers were connected, were twisted and fastened with wonderful skill.”

“After visiting a great number of the houses of Kayerooa, where these people, whose existence is so monotonous and so peaceful, repose from their indolent toils, I directed my steps towards the Governor’s hut, as he had asked me to visit him.”

“It is small, but very clean, and tolerably well furnished; containing rather a handsome bed, two wicker chairs, some Indian cushions, and a great number of mats. …”

“The town of Kayerooa is situated at the foot of a high mountain which protects the anchorage from the North and North-West winds. From this mountain, particularly from the nearest declivity, the inhabitants derive the greater part of their subsistence.”

“It is really melancholy to see the extensive plain which surrounds it on both sides, uncultivated and despised. I cannot conceive how a people so characteristically idle and indifferent can neglect so fertile a spot, which would at once enrich and save them great fatigue and suffering …”

“… a few days’ labour would provide them subsistence for several months; and two years’ perseverance would secure to them for ever those valuable gifts, of which, on the summit of mountains, a violent storm or some other catastrophe may so easily deprive them. …”

“Our botanist, whose zeal augments with the difficulty and fatigue he encounters, has walked over the best part of the heights above the town.”

“He assures us, that vegetation was very powerful there, and that it would be very easy to conduct into the plain, by means of shallow canals, the waters which fertilize these summits, and are entirely lost to the inhabitants, whose means of subsistence are entirely derived from the lands which adjoin the sea. …”

“We left Owhyhee on the 15th of August, at four in the morning, with a very light breeze, which, however, freshened up during the morning.”

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Ahuena_heiau_1816
Ahuena_heiau_1816

by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Largest Earthquake in Hawaiʻi

Magnitude 7.9, Kaʻū, Island of Hawaiʻi, April 2, 1868

On March 27, 1868, whaling ships at Kawaihae on the west coast of Hawaiʻi observed dense clouds of smoke rising from Mauna Loa’s crater, Mokuʻāweoweo, to a height of several miles and reflecting the bright light from the lava pit.

Slight shocks were felt at Kona on the west coast and Kaʻū on the flanks of the volcano.

On the 28th, lava broke out on the southwest flank and created a 15-mile flow to the sea. Over 300 strong shocks were felt at Kaʻū and 50 to 60 were felt at Kona.

At Kilauea, the surface of the ground quivered for days with frequent vigorous shocks that caused lamps, crockery and chairs to spin around as if animated.

One shock resembled that of a cannon projectile striking the ground under the proprietor’s bed, causing him to flee, according to the narrative published by C. H. Hitchcock in the Bulletin of the Seismological Society of America in 1912.

Between March 28, 1868 and April 11, over 2,000 distinct shocks were felt at Kona.

The main shocks struck on April 2, at 4:00 p.m., and again on April 4 at 12:30 a.m., the epicenter was located near Waiohinu.

“Thursday, April 2d, at a few minutes past four, p.m., the big earthquake occurred, which caused the ground around Kilauea to rock like a ship at sea. At that moment, there commenced fearful detonations in the crater, large quantities of lava were thrown up to a great height; portions of the wall tumbled in.”

“This extraordinary commotion, accompanied with unearthly noise and ceaseless swaying of the ground continued from that day till Sunday night, April 5th”. (Hawaiian Gazette, May 6, 1868)

A magnitude of 7 ¾ was estimated for this earthquake (by Augustine Furumoto in his February 1966 article on the Seismicity of Hawaii in the Bulletin of the Seismological Society of America) based on the extent of intensity reports.  (Instrumental recordings, the usual basis for computing magnitudes, were not available at this early date.)

The shock was felt throughout the islands, as far as Niʻihau about 350 miles away.

The ground rolled like a ship at sea and many walls tumbled down.

A landslide three miles long and thirty feet thick swept down the hill carrying trees, animals, and men.  Thirty-one people and thousands of cattle, sheep, horses and goats were killed in the one slide.

A tsunami struck the coast from Hilo to South Cape, being most destructive at Keauhou, Puna and Honuʻapo; 180 houses were washed away and 62 lives were lost to the wave alone.

A 10-foot-high wave carried wreckage inland 800-feet. Not a house survived at Honuʻapo. A stone church and other buildings were destroyed at Punaluʻu.

Maximum wave heights were 65 feet, the highest observed on Hawaiʻi to date.

At Keauhou (now Keauhou Landing) the water rose 35-50-feet destroying all the houses and warehouses and drowning 46 people. At Hilo, the height of the wave was about 10-feet, and at Kealakekua, 6-feet. The tsunami also was observed on Maui and Oʻahu. Also felt on Lānaʻi, Maui, Oʻahu, and Kauaʻi.

“The tidal wave was much greater than before stated. It rolled in over the tops of the cocoanut trees, probably sixty feet high, and drove the floating rubbish, timber, etc., inland a distance of a quarter of a mile in some places, taking out to sea when it returned, houses, men, women, and almost everything movable. The villages Punaluu, Ninole, Kawaa and Honuapo were utterly annihilated.”  (American Journal of Science, 1868)

This major earthquake caused 77 deaths (tsunami, 46; landslide, 31).

It knocked almost all wooden houses off their foundations in the Keiawa, Punaluʻu and Nīnole areas. In those areas, straw houses supported by posts in the ground reportedly were “torn to shreds.”

At Kaʻū, the more substantial houses and every stone wall were thrown down.

At Waiʻōhinu, a large stone church collapsed within 10 seconds of the onset of shaking. The shock “ruined” the few stone buildings in Hilo and shook down almost every wall. Brooks became muddy.

At Kealakekua, strong trees were bent backward and forward “like reeds in a storm.” Ground waves as much as 2-feet from ground to crest were observed at Kohala.

The motion was so violent at ʻUlupalakua that it was difficult for people to stand. Reports from Keaiwa and Kiolakaʻa suggest that vertical accelerations larger than 1g may have occurred (which means that the force of the earth pushing up on something is stronger than the force of gravity keeping it on the ground.)

Extensive surface effects were observed in the epicentral region. Ground fissures extended from Pahala to Kilauea. At Kahuku, a fissure about 5 kilometers long was reported. A volcanic eruption took place from that fissure a few days later, on April 7.

Along the Puna coast, the land subsided in places as much as 6-feet. At Kaimū, trees stood about 8-feet deep in sand and water. The plain at Kalapana sank about 6-feet, and water stood as much as 5-feet deep over 20 acres of formerly dry land.

Much of the information here is from USGS, with some noted from the diary and letters of Mrs. Sarah J. Lyman, wife of missionary David Layman in Hilo.

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Largest Earthquake in Hawaiʻi - Magnitude 7.9, Kaʻū, Island of Hawaiʻi, April 2, 1868-400
Largest Earthquake in Hawaiʻi - Machado
Largest Earthquake in Hawaiʻi – Machado

by Peter T Young 1 Comment

What a beautiful day for fishing …

In March 1865, Brigham Young (President of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints from 1847 until his death in 1877,) in a letter to King Kamehameha V, requested permission to locate an agricultural colony in Lāʻie. The king granted his request.

That year, Mormon missionaries (Francis Asbury Hammond and George Nebeker) purchased about 6,000-acres of the ahupuaʻa of Lāʻiewai to Lāʻiemaloʻo (in Koʻolauloa) from Mr. Thomas T Dougherty for the Mormon Church.  The missionaries hoped to create a gathering place for converts to their faith to settle in.

On April 5, 1882, King Kalākaua visited the village of Lāʻie as guest of honor for the ceremonial placement of four cornerstones for a new chapel being built by the Mormons.

The chapel remained until 1915 when the Hawaiʻi Temple was started and the chapel was moved. Unfortunately, the historic chapel burned down during renovations on July 11, 1940.

1945 saw the end of World War II. With the end came the return of the simple island life.

To replace the church they needed to raise funds.   After a few unsuccessful attempts at fundraising, the decision was made in 1947 to pull together a hukilau as a fundraising event. (PCC)

Hukilau (Huki = pull; lau = leaves, specifically, ki (ti) leaves) is a community fishing technique with long ropes, with dried ti leaves attached to frighten the fish.

The net was taken out and surrounds fish out in the water; then, the ends of the net are pulled into shore, corralling the fish.  The fish are either caught in the nets or picked up by hand.  This operation in the old days brought together men, women and children of the whole community.  (Maly)

A well-known expert fisherman, Hamana Kalili supplied the nets for fishing.  (Kalili is credited for starting the ‘shaka’ hand sign (but that is the subject of another story.))

Beatrice Ayer Patton (Mrs. George S Patton – her husband was stationed on Oʻahu during the mid-1920s) described Kalili as “a magnificent example of the pure Hawaiian. A man in his sixties, with white hair and a deeply carven face, he had the body and reactions of a teenager. He lived and fished on the windward side of the island”.  (Patton-Totten)

“… they would go out in the ocean, in a semicircle and pull the nets to shore, and that was the hukilau, part of it.  After the fish was all caught and so on, then they would go to the luau part.  And the luau, as you know, is a place where you can have lots of food, and have lots of entertainment.” (Roland Maʻiola “Ahi” Logan; Kepa Maly)

January 31, 1948, members of the Lāʻie Ward started the hukilau. (PCC)  A $5 fee was charged to enjoy the hukilau, food and hula show. Two hundred and fifty people arrived for the first fundraiser and the church raised $1,250.

Jack Owens enjoyed this Hukilau. That night, suffering sunburn, aches and pains, he was inspired to write this song. Introduced publicly at a Methodist lūʻau in Honolulu, it became an instant hit.  (Our Honolulu, Bob Krauss, Advertiser, April, 1998)

“So that became the Church fund raiser.  After the success of the first one.  That was done. … Hukilau gave the people of Lāʻie the impact of economic growth.  Next thing you knew, the ladies went into making crafts, the children were making coconut hats … the Hukilau was something that strengthened the people in the community.”  (Logan; Maly)

During that time, it was one of the most popular visitor attractions. To actually pull in the hukilau nets, feast on the lau lau and watch as the ʻama ʻama went swimming by was truly a Hawaiian activity. (PCC)  (The Hukilau continued to 1971.)

In 1959 students and faculty at the Church College of Hawaiʻi (BYU-Hawaiʻi) organized the “Polynesian Institute” (later renamed “Polynesian Panorama”) and took the show on the road.  Students performed first at the International Market Place, then put on larger performances in the Kaiser Hawaiian Dome in Waikīkī.

Two years of shuttling Church College students back and forth to Waikīkī for performances convinced decision-makers that a spirited, tourist-oriented Polynesian revue with a student cast was definitely marketable.

And although some argued that Lāʻie was too far from Honolulu, others insisted that the success of the hukilau demonstrated that they could draw audiences large enough to make the venture profitable.  (Webb)  Thus, the Polynesian Cultural Center was born.

Click HERE for a link to Owen’s Hukilau Song.

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