Images of Old Hawaiʻi

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Ranch House

This place had a lot of owners and went by a lot of names; it even had two different street addresses (it stayed in the same place, but it is not clear when or why the address changed).

It started with Robert Hind and his dairy operation.  While it didn’t start with that name, more often than not it was called some derivation of the Ranch House.  The structure was remodeled at least twice (1951 and 1971). 

In 1918 Robert Hind started Kapahulu Dairy.  (Kelly)  In 1924, Hind purchased 2,090-acres and established the Hind-Clarke Dairy with John K Clarke. “Rancher and Cattleman To Import 100 Pure Bred Guernseys At Once Will Be Added To Stock Ready for Opening of Hind-Clarke Dairy”

“One hundred pure bred Guernsey milch cows for the Hind-Clarke dairy, which is to be opened for business in the Waialae district later in the summer, will arrive from San Francisco June 30, announces Robert Hind, rancher and dairyman, who returned from the mainland on the steamer Wilhelmina Tuesday.”

“‘These cows will produce the highest quality of milk, which will be of a rich color and of a taste for which the Guernsey is famous. The animals have the best kind of pedigrees and would be valuable additions to any dairy.’”

“The dairy already has 150 Holstein cows, which produce milk In quantity, and the coming herd will increase his herd to at least 250 milk producers.” (Star Bulletin, June 10, 1925)

The Hind-Clarke Dairy was a favored stop along the road, as noted in a 1930 visitor’s guide … “The Hind-Clarke Dairy, a short way ahead and to our left with a large sign over the entrance, is not to be passed unnoticed.”

“The dairy is a model of its kind and well affords an opportunity to see dairying in its most scientific form. The cottage cheese on sale is, perhaps, the most delicious you have ever tasted.”  (Cultural Surveys)

“And Hind-Clarke Dairy had this drive-in where they had their own ice cream parlor [Hind-Clarke Drive Inn]. And later on it got to be known as M’s Ranch House.” (‘M’ referencing Mona Hind Holmes, Robert’s daughter.)

“Until only recently it was still there, and they finally closed down. But it started out as a Hind-Clarke Dairy ice cream parlor, but people drove in there to buy ice cream.” (Yamaguchi Oral History)

The Hind Clarke Dairy operation occupied the area presently occupied by the ‘Āina Haina Shopping Center and ‘Āina Haina Elementary School.

It stretched into the valley and over the ridge (now the Hawaii Loa Ridge subdivision). Hind Clark Dairy also had a small zoo near the library site today; there was a zebra in a pen. (Archaeological Consultants)

The former cattle pasture was subdivided into lots to form a new residential community called ‘Āina Haina (which means “Hind’s land”).

A little-known fact, lost (for the most part) to history, is that the Hind-Clarke Drive Inn became the Six Star Drive Inn briefly (around 1945) before coming M’s Ranch House.   (Darren Conley)

A September 1, 1945 advertisement in the Star Bulletin stated, “Opening Today the Six Star Drive-in, Fountain Service, Sandwiches. A La Carte Menus, Open Daily… 5202 Kalanianaole Highway. Near the Hind-Clarke Dairy Under the management of Mona Hind and Harry Shingle”.

However, Harry’s participation soon ended with an announcement, “Notice is herby given that Harry Kusuhara, also known as Harry Shingle, is no longer connected with the Six Star Drive Inn located at 5202 Kalanianaole Highway … I have returned to General Contracting and Catering as of the 15th day of January 1946.” (SB, Jan 25, 1946)

Then, “Notice is hereby given that on the 16th of May, 1947, Mona Hind Holmes and Charles W Lucas Jr, entered into a copartnership doing business under the name of The Ranch House, operating, maintaining and conducting a restaurant at 5202 Kalanianaole Highway, Honolulu, TH.” (Advertiser, May 17, 1947)

“Originally opened as the ice cream drive-inn for the Hind-Clarke Dairy and creamery, it was converted into a full service dining restaurant after the Dairy was sold in 1946, and the valley was subdivided into residential lots.”

“We moved into Aina Haina in 1949, and as a child growing up, our favorite thing was to play ‘cowboys’. We could choose between riding our bikes over to Niu Valley and feeding Lani Moo in her corral, or riding our bikes to M’s Ranch House, and play in the covered wagon.”  (Navas, Territorial Airwaves)

In 1971, the restaurant was “renewed” and “has a new look so different and so handsome that we hasten to reassure its family of customers that inside the doors, the food, the services, the hospitality, and the informality are all as they were before – only nicer.”

The Ranch House was “completely redecorated and refurbished … with a new roof line new paint and signs – but still the basically unchanged ‘dining home’ of thousands of Island families … [and] prices did not go up after all the remodeling and redecorating.” (SB, Jan 10, 1971)

The Ranch House was demolished in 1991, and Longs Drugs was built and still occupies the site; the ice cream parlor, drive In, fountain, Alibi Cocktail Room, hearty meals, live music entertainment … and covered wagon are now gone.

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Punahou Taro Patch

“Long ago an aged couple dwelled near the present spring. At a time of drought and famine, the people were obliged to search the mountains for ti root and wild yams for food, and to trudge to Kamo‘ili‘ili to fill their calabashes with drinking water.”

“One night the old woman dreamed that a man appeared to her, to whom she complained bitterly about having to go so far for water, whereupon he said: “He wai no” (“There is water”) and told her that beneath the trunk of an old hala tree nearby she would find it.”

“She awoke her husband and told him the dream, but he made light of it. The next night he had a similar dream. The apparition directed him to go to the sea and catch some red fish, to roast them in ti leaves, reserving a part as an offering to the family deities, and then to pull up the old hala tree by the roots.”

“He awoke, and lo! it was a dream. But the impression it made on him was so strong that in the morning he hastened to carry out the directions which he had received, and when at last he pulled up the hala tree, water oozed out from beneath its roots.”

“He dug out the place, and thus formed the spring, which was named Kapunahou. A pond was formed below the spring, and by it were irrigated a dozen or more taro patches.” (Sterling and Summers)

Prehistorically and historically, the area of densest population in all the Hawaiian Islands was that flanking Waikīkī on the island of O‘ahu. Here the chiefs had their residences near the now famous beach and the offshore waters where conditions were ideal for their prized sport of surf riding.

A whaling captain, FD Bennett says that in Mānoa Valley yams were grown ‘chiefly for the supply of shipping.’ Menzies with Vancouver in 1792, described the plantations behind Waikīkī as ‘little fields planted with taro, yams, sweet potatoes, and the

cloth plant.’ (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

This in early times idyllic area was flanked by the great wet-taro lands of Mānoa, and the area between that valley and the sea which was one continuous spread of taro land and fishponds; by Pauoa, Nu‘uanu, Waiolani, Kapalama, and Kalihi. (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

Mānoa, due to its broad, well-watered valley, was probably settled early by the Hawaiians, who probably cleared much of the lower areas near streams for wetland taro cultivation.

“In upper Manoa the whole of the level land in the valley bottom was developed in broad taro flats . The terraces extended along Manoa Stream as far as there is a suitable land for irrigating.”

“Some of the lower portion of the old taro area, in land from the slightly elevated land south west of Rocky Hill, is now covered by streets and houses. But except for this, the extensive terrace area is still intact and could be replanted.”

“Most of it is under grass and unused. About 100 terraces are still being cultivated, but these do not constitute more than one tenth of the total area capable of being planted.”  (Sterling and Summers)

There was a famous terraced area below what is now the Punahou School campus. “Kauawaahila afterwards made some kalo patches [there], and people attracted by the water and consequent fertility of the place came and settled about ….”

“More and more kalo patches were excavated and the place became a thriving settlement. The spring became known as Ka Punahou, and gave its name to the surrounding place”. (Nakuina, Thrum 1892)

The first recorded landlord (Konohiki) of Kapunahou was Kame‘eiamoku, one of the twin supporters of Kamehameha I. This was in 1795.  The twins were originally Kamehameha’s guardians (Kahus) and later supported his rise to power.

In recognition of this support, Kamehameha gave Moanalua and Kapunahou to Kame‘eiamoku. Kameʻeiamoku died at Lahaina in 1802. Kapunahou passed on to his son, Ulumaheihei. Ulumaheihei was renamed Hoapili by Kamehameha I.

Hoapili lived at Kapunahou for, some twenty years and when Kamehameha I stayed at Waikīkī (1804-1811) he visited Hoapili there. Hoapili gave Kapunahou to his daughter, Liliha. This probably happened when Hoapili moved to Lahaina to become the Governor of Maui.

Liliha was married to Boki, the Governor of O‘ahu.  Shortly after this, Ka‘ahumanu, Queen Regent, became an ardent supporter of the missionaries who had arrived in 1820.

In 1829, she wished to give Hiram and Sybil Bingham a gift of land and consulted Hoapili. He suggested Kapunahou (although he had already given it to Liliha).

According to A. F. Judd, “Not unnaturally, Liliha demurred the proposal, but Boki consented. And Liliha’s resentment could avail nothing against the wish of her father, her husband, and the highest chief of the land.” The land was given to the Binghams, but by missionary rules, it was really given to the mission as a whole.

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Pacific Bakery and Hotel

Pacific Bakey operated at 19 Kalakaua in Hilo, then … “Rumors widely current in the city to the effect that the Pacific Bakery is planning to transfer its field of operations to a larger structure on the vacant lot at the corner of Kalakaua and Keawe streets, are not denied by the management, although it does not wish to make a statement until final action is taken.”

“From other sources, however, it is learned that a prominent local Japanese merchant is preparing to build a two-story structure on this ground fronting Keawe street”.

“The plans have been under contemplation for a number of months, it is said, but they appear nearer fruition now than ever before.” (Hilo Daily Tribune. Oct 19, 1921)

“[T]he new two-story structure at the corner of Keawe and Kalakaua streets, which will be known as the ‘Pacific Building,’ will be rushed to completion”.  (Hilo Daily Tribune, Jan 11, 1922)

“The main business site will be occupied by the Pacific Bakery and Restaurant, the entrance to be on the corner of Keawe and Kalakaua streets, this concern to utilize the entire lower floor fronting on Kalakaua street and extending back to the police station. On the Keawe side there will be four additional business rooms available”.

“The Pacific Bakery and Restaurant rooms will occupy a space … divided in three sections, to accommodate the bakery and restaurant feature, dining room, kitchen, and workroom. The kitchen will be equipped with electric washing machines and other modern equipment.”   (Hilo Daily Tribune, Jan 11, 1922)

“On the second floor of the Pacific building there will be located 24 large, airy, well-lighted rooms for the accommodation of the general public, in connection with which there will be hot and cold water bathrooms for ladies and gentlemen.”

“The water for the bathrooms will be heated from a large tank in the bakery and carried to the upper floor by asbestos covered pipes. The entrance to the upper floor will be located about the middle of the building on the Keawe street side.”    (Hilo Daily Tribune, Jan 11, 1922)

“N. K. Takahashi is proprietor of the hotel as manager of the restaurant and bakery, all of which give employment to 29 people, including bakers, waitresses, cooks and other hotel employes.” (Hilo Daily Tribune, Nov 2, 1922)

“In the basement of the new structure, which was designed by F. Arakawa, local architect and civil engineer, provisions are made for a cold storage plant in connection with the restaurant and bakery, In which may be stored meats, eggs, butter, vegetables and other perishable food products.”

“Among the promoters and principal owners of the new bakery, restaurant and rooming house are K. Takahashi, T. R. Saiki, Y. Hata, S. Murakami and S. Kawasaki, the latter having the contract for the construction work.” (Hilo Daily Tribune, Jan 11, 1922)

It is one of the first businesses that developed the concept of a sidewalk cafe in downtown Hilo.  In 1924 the Hilo Library was a tenant on the first floor and in 1929 a bakery moved in at the corner of Keawe Street.

In order to be profitable for owner, tenants and the islanders/tourists have tried to have diverse businesses as tenants – to be a place to shop, eat, sit and meet.

Keawe Street is covered with a canopy so shopkeepers put tables and chairs outside, provide free internet and allow people an open-air dining experience. While customers are eating or doing work, some with their pets alongside, others are playing a music and singing, and making new acquaintances. The general feeling is uplifting and community centered. (HHF)

During the war, in a survey of structures, the Pacific Building was identified as one of downtown Hilo’s “approved shelters”, noting, the “spacious hall upstairs … can easily accommodate at least 200 comfortably without utilizing the rooms themselves.”

The “Recommended evacuation to this shelter is as follows: All occupants of Theo. H Davies & Co, offices and warehouses. All concerns on Keawe St extending for Paul’s Beauty Shop to and including the five residences … and from the Style Center (on the lower Keawe side) to and including Economy Motors.” (Hilo Tribune Herald, Jan 18, 1942)

The Pacific Bakery & Hotel was listed in the 1949 business directory and served as a gathering place for people travelling on the railroad tracks from Hāmākua and Kona, allowing them overnight eating and resting place, and a library for entertainment, and access to other businesses on the first floor. The commercial property has upkept its image as a community gathering place. (HHF)

Pacific Bakery was dissolved on September 10, 1954. (Hilo Tribune Herald, Sep 30, 1954) Later, the upper floor room rentals were monthly, as well as used by visiting sports teams for overnight accommodations; then, commercial office rentals took over up and down stairs.  The 2-story reinforced concrete Pacific Building still stands at the corner of Keawe and Kalakaua.

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New Month

“The busiest time of the month for the [plantation] stores was ‘new month’ time.” (Stores and Storekeepers of Paia & Puunene, Maui, UH Manoa, Ethnic Studies Program)

“[Y]ou get the goods ahead of the following month. You pay one month later.” (Kenichi Itakura, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

“Generally starting between the twentieth and twenty-sixth of each month (exact dates varied with each store), a customer was allowed to charge goods from that date and was not required to pay for his purchase until the payday after next.”

“If, for example, new month began on June 25, and a customer charged something on June 24, he would have to pay for that purchase on the next payday – July 1.”

“However, if he waited until June 25 to charge that purchase, his payment was not due until August 1. Because of this advantage, customers generally waited for new month to begin and bought items such as rice and feed in large quantities.”

“The store became busier than usual during this time, and order takers and delivery boys needed extra help from other store employees.”  (Stores and Storekeepers of Paia & Puunene, Maui, UH Manoa, Ethnic Studies Program)

[An average family of, say, four people. How much goods would they buy in new month time?] “Oh, well, those years, you know, money value was low. They used to buy, let’s say, thirty, forty dollars. Thirty, forty dollars, you know how much grocery you have? One month supply, almost.”

“In the meantime, maybe, they run short of certain things, and then they’ll buy little by little. You go over that, you have to pay anyway. So, sometimes, they – you know, come balance for so many months.”  (Kenichi Itakura, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

“[I worked for] For MA Company [Maui Agricultural Company] … they had boys that go out and take orders. Oh, they had – I think I would say – good, about four of them. Some Japanese, and some other boys.”

“We went into the camps … around the twentieth of each month. We went to this individual names, and they gave us what they called a ‘new month order.’ And [for] that merchandise, we brought those bills in.” (John Perreira, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

“One guy takes orders. That’s all he does – take orders. New month time. After [new month time is over], he works inside. Put up orders. You know, whatever job it is. In addition to that, with some of the truck drivers and the boys that put up the orders, they had to unload the freight.”

“Freight all came from Kahului inside box cars. These cars were, oh gosh, they were good size. Locomotive go right into the building. No way of [the merchandise] getting wet. And they unload all that merchandise and stack ‘em. We carried quite a number of merchandise.”  (John Perreira, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

“They start, maybe, around the twentieth of the month.  That, they don’t bill you till the following month, see? So, they [the stores] get new month order. That’s when everybody buy because they don’t have to pay (until the following) payday.”

“You had big order. Yeah, big order. Maybe two trip you have to make. Of course, if you have ten bag rice on your pickup truck, that’ s all you can put. Ten bag plus the groceries, see? So, you have to come back and make another trip.”

“And Filipinos used to eat plenty of rice, so new month, that’s when you sell your biggest quantity of rice.  (Masakazu Shimoda, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

“Twentieth, then you don’t pay that payday, but the following payday. So, they all wait. (Chuckles) Nowadays, they don’t have that system. More cash and carry. But those days, new month, they all wait. Even the wholesaler used to do that. Same way. So, I used to help deliver.”

“When he goes to take order, well, [for example], he go to your house. ‘Nishimoto’ he put down on the bill – house number, what camp. And then, he start taking the order. On the bill, you have ‘Alabama Camp, house thirteen’.  You go deliver over there.”  (Masakazu Shimoda, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

“[For sales/deliveries other than New Month days,] we still have that – the sales is not big like that once a month [i.e., new month] one. That, gradually, they going buy everyday things or some other stuff. So, they just go and take order every day.”

“They go, maybe, this camp today. They alternate. Next, maybe, two day, they go different camp. So, maybe, they might have about four guys go out, take order. So, every day, it’s a different camp. They bringing order in, but. They make [i.e., gather] their own order, but I have to be ready with that big stuff.”

“Oranges, like that, come out from that crate, eh? Because plenty. Some of them rotten. (KI lowers voice.) They say, “Well, get ’em all, wash ’em all, and put in the counters,” see?  They used to fill up from there. We had to take care all that.”

“You know, potatoes come from Mainland – from Oregon or someplace. California side, too. Some used to get that eyes sticking out already. They would get too old, eh? We used to take off that, and then you can pile ’em up, put in the box, and put with the [other] potatoes.”

“The guy who take order. When they make [i.e., gather] their own order, see? So, lot of job.” (Kenichi Itakura, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

“Because after new month, [they] only [go out] every day, little by little. New month is 50 percent of their sales already. The rest of the days is just going out [and making] contact, [getting for the customers] few things what they missed [during] new month.

That old style. New month is a big thing.”

“I think, every store had the big sale. All the Japanese stores was doing the same system. New month sale. One would give twenty, next give twenty. If he give nineteen, then we come down nineteen, too [i.e., extending new month privileges beginning on the nineteenth of the month instead of the twentieth].”

“Of course, your big customer, maybe he used to buy fifty dollars worth. He say, ‘Give me new month.’ Naturally, you got to give new month, one day early but. (Masakazu Shimoda, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

“[I]f it’s your good customer – the one that buy big one. You don’t want to lose him, so you going to give. If not, he goes to a competitor, and he tell ’em, ‘Hey, give me new month.’”

“Sundays, don’t deliver. But when it came to new month, … he get so much order, we have to make the order [i.e., gather the merchandise] in the evening so he can start delivering early in the morning. If not, he cannot take order next day. Only delivery, yeah? Oh, he used to bring the big order in. New month. You take, maybe, get twenty Filipinos ordering twenty bag rice, that’s two trip already.” (Masakazu Shimoda, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

“[New month could be] One, two days ahead. Especially your good customers. Yeah. [the plantation get mad if you did that.] You not supposed to. But then, the customers don’t say, too. … you have to give, on the sly.” (Masakazu Shimoda, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

In 1980, the UH Manoa Ethnic Studies program conducted a number of oral histories from people who grew up and worked in the Paia-Pu‘unene area of Maui.  Those histories and the information concluded from them provide insight into the plantation store system.  All here is from that project report.

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Maui Agricultural Company

In 1922, “Maui Agricultural Company [MA Co] has the largest land holdings of any of the Maui plantations but in area planted to cane is second to Hawaiian Commercial and Sugar. … It is a Baldwin plantation and its fields extend from those of the Hawaiian Commercial Sugar Co and extend thence into Haiku and up into Makawao.”

“Hawaiian Commercial and Sugar Company or Puunene as it is so commonly called, was the plantation for which the late HP [Herny Perrine] Baldwin did perhaps more than any other, much as he did for his Paia plantation. The two went forward together after he acquired what is now Hawaiian Commercial and Sugar Company property.” (Maui News, Oct 10, 1922)

“[A]s one travels east along Hana Highway from the city of Kahului, two sugar mills can be seen among the cane fields which characterize central Maui. The first to come to view is Puunene Mill. Located two miles from Kahului, it is part of the Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar Company (HC&S). “ (Stores and Storekeepers of Paia & Puunene, Maui, UH Manoa, Ethnic Studies Program)

“The Maui Agricultural Company was a copartnership of corporations consisting of the two historic plantations, Haiku Sugar Co., founded in 1858 and Paia Plantation dating back to 1883, and five companies chartered in 1903, the date of the formation of the Maui Agricultural Co.”

“Previous to 1883 and back to 1870 the upper portions of the Paia lands comprised a plantation owned by Mr HP Baldwin, the manager, and Mr ST Alexander as partners under the firm name or Alexander & Baldwin.”

“In 1886 the Haiku Sugar Co absorbed the East Maui Plantation Company located at Kaluanui and in 1889 the Paia Plantation purchased the Grove Ranch Plantation Co., doing business at Grove Ranch or Pahulei.”  (Maui News, Oct 10, 1922)

“Two miles further along Hana Highway, on a hill, appears Paia Mill. … [P]rior to 1948 when the two companies merged, Paia Plantation was part of the Maui Agricultural Company (MA Company).”

“Less sprawling than neighboring Puunene Plantation, Paia Plantation consisted of six main camps housing approximately 6,000 people. Besides the main Paia Camp which consisted of smaller ‘subcamps’ near the mill, the other camps were at Kaheka, Hamakua Poke, Keahua, Pulehu, and Kailua.”  (Stores and Storekeepers of Paia & Puunene, Maui, UH Manoa, Ethnic Studies Program)

“Paia and Puunene were almost the same company. [Maui Agricultural Company [Paia] and Hawaiian Commercial and Sugar Company [Puunene] were both subsidiaries of Alexander and Baldwin.]” (Minoru Hayashida, Oral History)  “MA Company and HC&S was different company – sugar company … Then, they merged, came HC&S [in 1948].”  (Kenichi Itakura, Oral History)

In 1900 Alexander & Baldwin incorporated as an agency for sugar plantations such as Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar Company and Maui Agricultural Company, Ltd., an A&B creation. (Stores and Storekeepers of Paia & Puunene, Maui, UH Manoa, Ethnic Studies Program)

Henry “Harry” Alexander Baldwin, son of Henry Perrine Baldwin, was President and Manager of Maui Agricultural Company which consolidated the sugar plantations over in the Ha‘ikū, Hamakuapoko, and Hāli‘imaile areas. (Orr)

In 1906 Frank F. Baldwin succeeded his father Henry Perrine Baldwin as manager of HC&S; and became both president and manager in 1911, when his father died.

In 1908 HC&S and MA Company jointly organized East Maui Irrigation Company, Ltd to manage their ditch system and divide water between them.

In 1917 Maui Agricultural Company, Ltd. built the first distillery in the US for producing alcohol from molasses; the plantations vehicles operated on molasses alcohol instead of kerosene or gasoline during World War I. The company also grew corn which they grounded at their Ha‘ikū factory, supplying the Territory of Hawaii. (Orr)

“Another case of pioneering on the part or the MA Co, was its installation of a plant for the manufacture of fuel alcohol. This process was devised by JP Foster, factory superintendent. ln this way the company utilized its waste alcohol profitably, manufacturing enough motor fuel to run all of its tractors and other motor vehicles.”

“It Is now furnishing the fuel to its employes for cooking purposes. This Is being done because of the growing scarcity and increasing cost of wood as a fuel, the plantation always having furnished the latter to its workers.”

“It experimented as to the cost of the new fuel compared with oil and found it more economical. It now  furnishes the necessary stoves at a lower cost than other stoves could be bought and the fuel alcohol gratis.” (Maui News, Oct 10, 1922)

“One of the world’s largest plantations at the time, Puunene Plantation consisted of 33,000 acres, 16,000 of which were cane land in 1935.”

“In 1935, 7,600 employees and their families lived in the twenty-six camps that dotted the area.  Among the plantation camps stood four public schools, three Japanese-language schools, ten churches, one large hospital, twelve day nurseries, three theaters, and a gymnasium.”

Maui Agricultural Company, Ltd. once had a thriving pineapple department; in 1932 the department became a part of Maui Pineapple Company. In 1948 HC&S and Maui Agricultural Company merged, forming one of the largest sugar producers. The following year HC&S abandoned its Pu‘unene railroad for the new trucking era. (Orr)

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