Images of Old Hawaiʻi

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Pacific Bakery and Hotel

Pacific Bakey operated at 19 Kalakaua in Hilo, then … “Rumors widely current in the city to the effect that the Pacific Bakery is planning to transfer its field of operations to a larger structure on the vacant lot at the corner of Kalakaua and Keawe streets, are not denied by the management, although it does not wish to make a statement until final action is taken.”

“From other sources, however, it is learned that a prominent local Japanese merchant is preparing to build a two-story structure on this ground fronting Keawe street”.

“The plans have been under contemplation for a number of months, it is said, but they appear nearer fruition now than ever before.” (Hilo Daily Tribune. Oct 19, 1921)

“[T]he new two-story structure at the corner of Keawe and Kalakaua streets, which will be known as the ‘Pacific Building,’ will be rushed to completion”.  (Hilo Daily Tribune, Jan 11, 1922)

“The main business site will be occupied by the Pacific Bakery and Restaurant, the entrance to be on the corner of Keawe and Kalakaua streets, this concern to utilize the entire lower floor fronting on Kalakaua street and extending back to the police station. On the Keawe side there will be four additional business rooms available”.

“The Pacific Bakery and Restaurant rooms will occupy a space … divided in three sections, to accommodate the bakery and restaurant feature, dining room, kitchen, and workroom. The kitchen will be equipped with electric washing machines and other modern equipment.”   (Hilo Daily Tribune, Jan 11, 1922)

“On the second floor of the Pacific building there will be located 24 large, airy, well-lighted rooms for the accommodation of the general public, in connection with which there will be hot and cold water bathrooms for ladies and gentlemen.”

“The water for the bathrooms will be heated from a large tank in the bakery and carried to the upper floor by asbestos covered pipes. The entrance to the upper floor will be located about the middle of the building on the Keawe street side.”    (Hilo Daily Tribune, Jan 11, 1922)

“N. K. Takahashi is proprietor of the hotel as manager of the restaurant and bakery, all of which give employment to 29 people, including bakers, waitresses, cooks and other hotel employes.” (Hilo Daily Tribune, Nov 2, 1922)

“In the basement of the new structure, which was designed by F. Arakawa, local architect and civil engineer, provisions are made for a cold storage plant in connection with the restaurant and bakery, In which may be stored meats, eggs, butter, vegetables and other perishable food products.”

“Among the promoters and principal owners of the new bakery, restaurant and rooming house are K. Takahashi, T. R. Saiki, Y. Hata, S. Murakami and S. Kawasaki, the latter having the contract for the construction work.” (Hilo Daily Tribune, Jan 11, 1922)

It is one of the first businesses that developed the concept of a sidewalk cafe in downtown Hilo.  In 1924 the Hilo Library was a tenant on the first floor and in 1929 a bakery moved in at the corner of Keawe Street.

In order to be profitable for owner, tenants and the islanders/tourists have tried to have diverse businesses as tenants – to be a place to shop, eat, sit and meet.

Keawe Street is covered with a canopy so shopkeepers put tables and chairs outside, provide free internet and allow people an open-air dining experience. While customers are eating or doing work, some with their pets alongside, others are playing a music and singing, and making new acquaintances. The general feeling is uplifting and community centered. (HHF)

During the war, in a survey of structures, the Pacific Building was identified as one of downtown Hilo’s “approved shelters”, noting, the “spacious hall upstairs … can easily accommodate at least 200 comfortably without utilizing the rooms themselves.”

The “Recommended evacuation to this shelter is as follows: All occupants of Theo. H Davies & Co, offices and warehouses. All concerns on Keawe St extending for Paul’s Beauty Shop to and including the five residences … and from the Style Center (on the lower Keawe side) to and including Economy Motors.” (Hilo Tribune Herald, Jan 18, 1942)

The Pacific Bakery & Hotel was listed in the 1949 business directory and served as a gathering place for people travelling on the railroad tracks from Hāmākua and Kona, allowing them overnight eating and resting place, and a library for entertainment, and access to other businesses on the first floor. The commercial property has upkept its image as a community gathering place. (HHF)

Pacific Bakery was dissolved on September 10, 1954. (Hilo Tribune Herald, Sep 30, 1954) Later, the upper floor room rentals were monthly, as well as used by visiting sports teams for overnight accommodations; then, commercial office rentals took over up and down stairs.  The 2-story reinforced concrete Pacific Building still stands at the corner of Keawe and Kalakaua.

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New Month

“The busiest time of the month for the [plantation] stores was ‘new month’ time.” (Stores and Storekeepers of Paia & Puunene, Maui, UH Manoa, Ethnic Studies Program)

“[Y]ou get the goods ahead of the following month. You pay one month later.” (Kenichi Itakura, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

“Generally starting between the twentieth and twenty-sixth of each month (exact dates varied with each store), a customer was allowed to charge goods from that date and was not required to pay for his purchase until the payday after next.”

“If, for example, new month began on June 25, and a customer charged something on June 24, he would have to pay for that purchase on the next payday – July 1.”

“However, if he waited until June 25 to charge that purchase, his payment was not due until August 1. Because of this advantage, customers generally waited for new month to begin and bought items such as rice and feed in large quantities.”

“The store became busier than usual during this time, and order takers and delivery boys needed extra help from other store employees.”  (Stores and Storekeepers of Paia & Puunene, Maui, UH Manoa, Ethnic Studies Program)

[An average family of, say, four people. How much goods would they buy in new month time?] “Oh, well, those years, you know, money value was low. They used to buy, let’s say, thirty, forty dollars. Thirty, forty dollars, you know how much grocery you have? One month supply, almost.”

“In the meantime, maybe, they run short of certain things, and then they’ll buy little by little. You go over that, you have to pay anyway. So, sometimes, they – you know, come balance for so many months.”  (Kenichi Itakura, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

“[I worked for] For MA Company [Maui Agricultural Company] … they had boys that go out and take orders. Oh, they had – I think I would say – good, about four of them. Some Japanese, and some other boys.”

“We went into the camps … around the twentieth of each month. We went to this individual names, and they gave us what they called a ‘new month order.’ And [for] that merchandise, we brought those bills in.” (John Perreira, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

“One guy takes orders. That’s all he does – take orders. New month time. After [new month time is over], he works inside. Put up orders. You know, whatever job it is. In addition to that, with some of the truck drivers and the boys that put up the orders, they had to unload the freight.”

“Freight all came from Kahului inside box cars. These cars were, oh gosh, they were good size. Locomotive go right into the building. No way of [the merchandise] getting wet. And they unload all that merchandise and stack ‘em. We carried quite a number of merchandise.”  (John Perreira, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

“They start, maybe, around the twentieth of the month.  That, they don’t bill you till the following month, see? So, they [the stores] get new month order. That’s when everybody buy because they don’t have to pay (until the following) payday.”

“You had big order. Yeah, big order. Maybe two trip you have to make. Of course, if you have ten bag rice on your pickup truck, that’ s all you can put. Ten bag plus the groceries, see? So, you have to come back and make another trip.”

“And Filipinos used to eat plenty of rice, so new month, that’s when you sell your biggest quantity of rice.  (Masakazu Shimoda, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

“Twentieth, then you don’t pay that payday, but the following payday. So, they all wait. (Chuckles) Nowadays, they don’t have that system. More cash and carry. But those days, new month, they all wait. Even the wholesaler used to do that. Same way. So, I used to help deliver.”

“When he goes to take order, well, [for example], he go to your house. ‘Nishimoto’ he put down on the bill – house number, what camp. And then, he start taking the order. On the bill, you have ‘Alabama Camp, house thirteen’.  You go deliver over there.”  (Masakazu Shimoda, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

“[For sales/deliveries other than New Month days,] we still have that – the sales is not big like that once a month [i.e., new month] one. That, gradually, they going buy everyday things or some other stuff. So, they just go and take order every day.”

“They go, maybe, this camp today. They alternate. Next, maybe, two day, they go different camp. So, maybe, they might have about four guys go out, take order. So, every day, it’s a different camp. They bringing order in, but. They make [i.e., gather] their own order, but I have to be ready with that big stuff.”

“Oranges, like that, come out from that crate, eh? Because plenty. Some of them rotten. (KI lowers voice.) They say, “Well, get ’em all, wash ’em all, and put in the counters,” see?  They used to fill up from there. We had to take care all that.”

“You know, potatoes come from Mainland – from Oregon or someplace. California side, too. Some used to get that eyes sticking out already. They would get too old, eh? We used to take off that, and then you can pile ’em up, put in the box, and put with the [other] potatoes.”

“The guy who take order. When they make [i.e., gather] their own order, see? So, lot of job.” (Kenichi Itakura, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

“Because after new month, [they] only [go out] every day, little by little. New month is 50 percent of their sales already. The rest of the days is just going out [and making] contact, [getting for the customers] few things what they missed [during] new month.

That old style. New month is a big thing.”

“I think, every store had the big sale. All the Japanese stores was doing the same system. New month sale. One would give twenty, next give twenty. If he give nineteen, then we come down nineteen, too [i.e., extending new month privileges beginning on the nineteenth of the month instead of the twentieth].”

“Of course, your big customer, maybe he used to buy fifty dollars worth. He say, ‘Give me new month.’ Naturally, you got to give new month, one day early but. (Masakazu Shimoda, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

“[I]f it’s your good customer – the one that buy big one. You don’t want to lose him, so you going to give. If not, he goes to a competitor, and he tell ’em, ‘Hey, give me new month.’”

“Sundays, don’t deliver. But when it came to new month, … he get so much order, we have to make the order [i.e., gather the merchandise] in the evening so he can start delivering early in the morning. If not, he cannot take order next day. Only delivery, yeah? Oh, he used to bring the big order in. New month. You take, maybe, get twenty Filipinos ordering twenty bag rice, that’s two trip already.” (Masakazu Shimoda, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

“[New month could be] One, two days ahead. Especially your good customers. Yeah. [the plantation get mad if you did that.] You not supposed to. But then, the customers don’t say, too. … you have to give, on the sly.” (Masakazu Shimoda, Store and Storekeepers Oral History)

In 1980, the UH Manoa Ethnic Studies program conducted a number of oral histories from people who grew up and worked in the Paia-Pu‘unene area of Maui.  Those histories and the information concluded from them provide insight into the plantation store system.  All here is from that project report.

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Maui Agricultural Company

In 1922, “Maui Agricultural Company [MA Co] has the largest land holdings of any of the Maui plantations but in area planted to cane is second to Hawaiian Commercial and Sugar. … It is a Baldwin plantation and its fields extend from those of the Hawaiian Commercial Sugar Co and extend thence into Haiku and up into Makawao.”

“Hawaiian Commercial and Sugar Company or Puunene as it is so commonly called, was the plantation for which the late HP [Herny Perrine] Baldwin did perhaps more than any other, much as he did for his Paia plantation. The two went forward together after he acquired what is now Hawaiian Commercial and Sugar Company property.” (Maui News, Oct 10, 1922)

“[A]s one travels east along Hana Highway from the city of Kahului, two sugar mills can be seen among the cane fields which characterize central Maui. The first to come to view is Puunene Mill. Located two miles from Kahului, it is part of the Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar Company (HC&S). “ (Stores and Storekeepers of Paia & Puunene, Maui, UH Manoa, Ethnic Studies Program)

“The Maui Agricultural Company was a copartnership of corporations consisting of the two historic plantations, Haiku Sugar Co., founded in 1858 and Paia Plantation dating back to 1883, and five companies chartered in 1903, the date of the formation of the Maui Agricultural Co.”

“Previous to 1883 and back to 1870 the upper portions of the Paia lands comprised a plantation owned by Mr HP Baldwin, the manager, and Mr ST Alexander as partners under the firm name or Alexander & Baldwin.”

“In 1886 the Haiku Sugar Co absorbed the East Maui Plantation Company located at Kaluanui and in 1889 the Paia Plantation purchased the Grove Ranch Plantation Co., doing business at Grove Ranch or Pahulei.”  (Maui News, Oct 10, 1922)

“Two miles further along Hana Highway, on a hill, appears Paia Mill. … [P]rior to 1948 when the two companies merged, Paia Plantation was part of the Maui Agricultural Company (MA Company).”

“Less sprawling than neighboring Puunene Plantation, Paia Plantation consisted of six main camps housing approximately 6,000 people. Besides the main Paia Camp which consisted of smaller ‘subcamps’ near the mill, the other camps were at Kaheka, Hamakua Poke, Keahua, Pulehu, and Kailua.”  (Stores and Storekeepers of Paia & Puunene, Maui, UH Manoa, Ethnic Studies Program)

“Paia and Puunene were almost the same company. [Maui Agricultural Company [Paia] and Hawaiian Commercial and Sugar Company [Puunene] were both subsidiaries of Alexander and Baldwin.]” (Minoru Hayashida, Oral History)  “MA Company and HC&S was different company – sugar company … Then, they merged, came HC&S [in 1948].”  (Kenichi Itakura, Oral History)

In 1900 Alexander & Baldwin incorporated as an agency for sugar plantations such as Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar Company and Maui Agricultural Company, Ltd., an A&B creation. (Stores and Storekeepers of Paia & Puunene, Maui, UH Manoa, Ethnic Studies Program)

Henry “Harry” Alexander Baldwin, son of Henry Perrine Baldwin, was President and Manager of Maui Agricultural Company which consolidated the sugar plantations over in the Ha‘ikū, Hamakuapoko, and Hāli‘imaile areas. (Orr)

In 1906 Frank F. Baldwin succeeded his father Henry Perrine Baldwin as manager of HC&S; and became both president and manager in 1911, when his father died.

In 1908 HC&S and MA Company jointly organized East Maui Irrigation Company, Ltd to manage their ditch system and divide water between them.

In 1917 Maui Agricultural Company, Ltd. built the first distillery in the US for producing alcohol from molasses; the plantations vehicles operated on molasses alcohol instead of kerosene or gasoline during World War I. The company also grew corn which they grounded at their Ha‘ikū factory, supplying the Territory of Hawaii. (Orr)

“Another case of pioneering on the part or the MA Co, was its installation of a plant for the manufacture of fuel alcohol. This process was devised by JP Foster, factory superintendent. ln this way the company utilized its waste alcohol profitably, manufacturing enough motor fuel to run all of its tractors and other motor vehicles.”

“It Is now furnishing the fuel to its employes for cooking purposes. This Is being done because of the growing scarcity and increasing cost of wood as a fuel, the plantation always having furnished the latter to its workers.”

“It experimented as to the cost of the new fuel compared with oil and found it more economical. It now  furnishes the necessary stoves at a lower cost than other stoves could be bought and the fuel alcohol gratis.” (Maui News, Oct 10, 1922)

“One of the world’s largest plantations at the time, Puunene Plantation consisted of 33,000 acres, 16,000 of which were cane land in 1935.”

“In 1935, 7,600 employees and their families lived in the twenty-six camps that dotted the area.  Among the plantation camps stood four public schools, three Japanese-language schools, ten churches, one large hospital, twelve day nurseries, three theaters, and a gymnasium.”

Maui Agricultural Company, Ltd. once had a thriving pineapple department; in 1932 the department became a part of Maui Pineapple Company. In 1948 HC&S and Maui Agricultural Company merged, forming one of the largest sugar producers. The following year HC&S abandoned its Pu‘unene railroad for the new trucking era. (Orr)

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Forty Niner

Katsutaro Chagami was Issei (first generation) – born in Japan and emigrated to the Islands from 1885 to 1924 (when Congress stopped all legal migration). The term Issei came into common use and represented the idea of a new beginning and belonging.

The children of the Issei, like Richard Kiyoshi Chagami, were Nisei, the second generation in Hawaiʻi and the first generation of Japanese descent to be born and receive their entire education in America, learning Western values and holding US citizenship.

“When the Issei first arrived in Hawaii they lived in plantation villages or camps and preserved their way of life by only speaking Japanese. After 1900, a significant influx of picture brides to the islands created families that served as the basis for a flourishing Japanese population.”

“As the community grew, Buddhist temples, Japanese newspapers, and Japanese language schools were created. Most Japanese immigrants were plantation workers, but there were those who chose to take up a life of fishing as a means of sustenance and income.”

“Small fishing villages were known to crop up around coastal areas. Katsutaro and Kawayo Chagami [Richard Chagami’s parents], lived on the shores of Pearl Harbor in a small fishing village on what is currently the Aiea Bay State Recreation Area.” (Minatoishi and Gushiken; NPS)

“Katsutaro Chagami owned a sampan (a flat-bottomed fishing boat) that was moored at Kewalo Basin. His fishing endeavors called him away for two weeks at a time. Besides deep sea fishing, Katsutaro occasionally brought the boat home to take the family for rides to Ford Island (Mokuumeume) or around Pearl Harbor (Puuloa).”

“The Chagami family had erected an ebisu kotohira (fishing shrine) on their property, a sacred object the family would eventually take with them.”

“In 1940, Pearl Harbor terminated the leases on the fishing village and Katsutaro, Kawayo, and their 11 children were forced to look for other living accommodations.” (Minatoishi and Gushiken; NPS)

Richard Chagami (born on June 21, 1917) served in the Army along with his brother Henry. They served in Italy and France as part of the 442nd Regimental Combat Team during World War II.  During his service with the Army, Richard served as a cook.  (Minatoishi and Gushiken; NPS)

Upon the boys’ return, their parents purchased a lunch wagon from Elia Niau so the brothers could start a business together. The lunch wagon sold meals near the corner of Honomanu and Kamehameha Highway.

In the beginning, they served mostly banana splits, ice cream floats and sodas. The menu later changed to plate lunches, saimin and burgers. (Bernardo)

“The wagon was on their (Chagami’s) property. We used to hook up to their electricity and use their water to run the wagon. They were always really nice to us.”

“It was World War II, so there was rationing.  But because my father was a police officer who patrolled the Pearl City area, he always knew where to get the food.”

“I used to use a wheel barrel to carry the sodas and the burgers across the street. They loved our burgers and our bacon sandwiches.” (Solomon Niau, son of Elia Niau; Paragas) These were the two staples of the lunch wagon then, and they remain popular among many of the restaurant’s current patrons. (Paragas)

The wagon was named the “Forty Niner”. The name drew inspiration from the Gold Rush and alluded to the owner’s hopes that patrons would flock to the eatery much like adventurers converged on California.

“I guess my parents (including mom Elizabeth Johnson Niau) thought that if they bought the Forty Niner, people would rush in like they did during the 1949 Gold Rush.” (Solomon Niau, son of Elia Niau; Paragas)

The wagon gained a strong following from workers at the Aiea Naval Hospital, Pearl Harbor, and other adjacent military facilities. After the lunch wagon gained a substantial following, a free-standing, permanent restaurant was constructed. The Forty Niner establishment was completed in August of 1947. (Minatoishi and Gushiken; NPS)

Richard Chagami handled the daily operations while Henry handled the bookkeeping. Over the years, Chagami’s nine other siblings also helped out. (Bernardo)

Richard retired in 2006 and passed the historic building, and the recipes served in it, to new owner Wil Cordes III. “I knew there would be a lot of eyes on me,” Cordes says.

“People have been bringing their families, three, four generations already. They were going to know the menu and taste of the food better than I did.”

So, after a few months of much needed renovations – the kitchen had a single burner and no telephone – he reopened with Richard’s sister, Jennie Tsuchidana, still making the burgers, saimin dashi and all the original menu items. Before he passed in 2011, Richard would even stop by now and then: “He would just say, ‘taste good, taste good,’” Cordes says.

“Meanwhile, he and his wife, Karla, expanded the menu to breakfast with pancakes, waffles and French toast and rotating specials throughout the day.

Longtime diners can now dig into the Forty Niner pancakes – which Cordes says were the first to feature haupia sauce and macadamia nuts – banana French toast, chilaquiles with eggs and garlic chicken while sitting on the eatery’s original stools.  (Honolulu Magazine)

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“Take it all except the Cannon Club”

When the Vice-President of Kapiʻolani Community College visited the Army headquarters at Schofield Barracks in 1965 to ask for the former Fort Ruger lands, the general was said to have replied “Take it all except the Cannon Club.” (Cultural Surveys)

Whoa … we’ve already gotten waaay ahead of ourselves. Let’s look back.

In 1884, Diamond Head went from private royal ownership to government property. Under King Kalākaua, the Diamond Head crater and part of the surrounding lands were transferred from the estate of King Lunalilo to the Hawaiian government. In 1904, the US government acquired 729-acres of Diamond Head as public domain.

From 1904 until 1950, Diamond Head was closed to the public at large. During this period of exclusive occupation, significant construction occurred within the crater. Bunkers, communication rooms, storage tunnels and coastal artillery fortifications were built. (LRB)

Between 1909-1921, the Hawaiian Coast Artillery Command had its headquarters at Fort Ruger and defenses included artillery regiments stationed at Fort Armstrong, Fort Barrette, Fort DeRussy, Diamond Head, Fort Kamehameha, Kuwa‘aohe Military Reservation (Fort Hase – later known as Marine Corps Base Hawaiʻi) and Fort Weaver.

The forts and battery emplacements batteries were dispersed for concealment and to insure that a projectile striking one would not thereby endanger a neighbor.

Fort Ruger Military Reservation was established at Diamond Head (Lēʻahi) in 1906. The Reservation was named in honor of Major General Thomas H Ruger, a Civil War hero and, later, superintendent of the United States Military Academy at West Point.

The fort included Battery Harlow (1910-1943); Battery Birkhimer (1916-1943); Battery Granger Adams (1935-1946); Battery Dodge (1915-1925); Battery Mills (1916-1925); Battery 407 (1944); Battery Hulings (1915-1925); and Battery Ruger (1937-1943).

Also at Fort Ruger was the Cannon Club, a social club with a restaurant built in 1945 for the officers and their families at Fort Ruger and other military installations.

“It wasn’t the fanciest place on the island, but it was the sort of old-style officers’ club that crisply preserved the illusion that each guest there, for the evening at least, was important and deserved some extra attention.”

“It was a place where people said “Sir” and “Ma’am” a lot; where you got fruit cocktail and thick juicy slabs of Porterhouse or prime rib, along with buttery rolls and piping hot baked potatoes heaped with real bacon bits … or watch the grown-ups glide across a dance floor that was open to the balmy breezes and the lambent sky, keeping time to the strains of a live band.” (Cultural Surveys)

The conclusion of World War II and the advent of nuclear and missile warfare made the coastal batteries obsolete. Thus in December 1955 the majority of the Fort Ruger land was turned over to the State of Hawai‘i.

The club, however, could not keep up with the times. Under a 1987 federal law, military clubs had to be self-sustaining to remain open, and the Army had to close the Cannon Club in 1997 as a result. For a few years, there was hope that the restaurant could reopen under private contractors, but the funding for the project fell through. (Cultural Surveys)

In 2001, the State acquired the 7.8-acre property across from the Kapiʻolani Community College campus (which is situated on former Fort Ruger land.)

A few years later, the Board of Land and Natural Resources approved a direct lease of the Cannon Club site to the University of Hawaiʻi for the Culinary Institute of the Pacific (under KCC) that was executed in August 2004. (I was Chair of DLNR at the time.)

Kapiʻolani Technical School was established near the Ala Wai in 1946; their first program was food service. In 1965, programs were realigned to fit the UH community college system (it was then renamed Kapiʻolani Community College – and eventually relocated to its present campus on the mauka slopes of Diamond Head.)

The Culinary Institute of the Pacific was formed in 2000 as a UH Community College System-wide consortium. Its mission is to provide career, technical and cultural culinary education. It is a collaboration with the Culinary Institute of America (CIA).

The new 65-year lease enables “the university to develop new instructional and restaurant facilities for KCC’s Culinary Institute of the Pacific at Diamond Head.”

“The Culinary Institute will expand opportunities for current students, past graduates and industry professionals seeking advance degrees in the culinary arts and managerial positions.” (Governor Lingle; UH)

The UH, through KCC, is developing new certificate and degree programs in culinary arts to serve State needs for advanced culinary instruction and training. Currently, the Community Colleges offer two-year Associate of Science degrees or non-credit culinary arts programs.

Based at the former Cannon Club, the new programs serve the needs of students completing the two year degree, industry professionals requiring advanced culinary education, and students from outside Hawai‘i seeking training in Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine. (UH)

The Culinary Institute of the Pacific at Diamond Head is a state-of-the art, environmentally sustainable culinary campus that will include a signature restaurant open to the public, competition kitchen, demonstration theater, advanced Asian culinary lab, a patisserie classroom, imu pit and theme garden plots. (Restaurant Week) (The restaurant is opening in the fall of 2025.)

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