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March 12, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Entering Honolulu Harbor

There are certain things you should not or cannot do into the wind.

Tradewinds blow from the Northeast, the channel into Honolulu Harbor has a northeasterly alignment. Early ships calling to Honolulu were powered only by sails.

The entrance to the harbor was narrow and lined on either side with reefs.

Ships don’t sail into the wind.

Given all of this, Honolulu Harbor was difficult to enter.

The first European entry of Honolulu Harbor is credited to Captain Brown of the British schooner Jackal, accompanied by Captain Gordon in the sloop tender Prince Lee Boo.

They called the harbor “Fair Haven” which may be a rough translation of the Hawaiian name Honolulu (it was also sometimes called Brown’s Harbor.)

Following this, boats either anchored off-shore, or they were pulled, warped or tracked into the harbor (this was done with canoes; or, it meant men and/or oxen pulled them in.)

This might take eight double canoes with 16-20 men each, working in the pre-dawn calm when winds and currents were slow. Otherwise you had to contend with tradewinds blowing out of the harbor.

It was a narrow with reefs, but it was the only deep water harbor in the central Pacific.

In 1816 (as stories suggest,) Richards Street alignment was the straight path used by groups of men, and later oxen, to pull ships through the narrow channel into the harbor.

(Later, downtown’s Richards Street was named for a man who had a store on the street selling luggage to tourists.)

A few years after, in 1825, the first pier in the harbor was improvised by sinking a ship’s hull near the present Pier 12 site.

In 1854 the first steam tug was used to pull sail-powered ships into dock against the prevailing tradewinds.

Between 1857 and 1870, about 22-acres of reef and tideland was filled through a combination of fill and dredging, forming the “Esplanade” between Fort and Merchant Streets.

This created the area where Aloha Tower and Aloha Tower Marketplace are now located (prior to this, the waterfront was near Queen Street.)

In 1889, the Honolulu Harbor was described as “nothing but a channel kept open by the flow of the Nuʻuanu River.” In 1890-92 the channel was widened and deepened by dredging.

A channel 200 feet wide by 30 feet deep was dredged for about 1,000-feet through the sand bar which had limited depth to as shallow as 18 feet, restricting entry of the largest ocean vessels.

A series of new piers were constructed at the base of Richards Street in 1896, at the site of Piers 17 and 18 in 1901 (to accommodate sugar loading) and then at Piers 7 and 12 in 1907.

Today, Honolulu Harbor continues to serve as Hawai‘i’s commercial lifeline to the rest of the world.

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Honolulu Harbor-Ships pulled by canoes-Henry Walker-1843
Honolulu Harbor-Ships pulled by canoes-Henry Walker-1843
Honolulu_Harbor-Choris-1822
Honolulu_Harbor-Choris-1822
View_of_Honolulu_Harbor_and_Punchbowl_Crater._(c._1854)
View_of_Honolulu_Harbor_and_Punchbowl_Crater._(c._1854)
Honolulu_Harbor-USS_Dolphin-(Massey)-1826
Honolulu_Harbor-USS_Dolphin-(Massey)-1826
Honolulu_Harbor_Kotzebue-Map-1816
Honolulu_Harbor_Kotzebue-Map-1816
Honolulu-South_Shore-Pearl_Harbor-to-Diamond_Head-Kotzebue-1817-portion-400
Honolulu-South_Shore-Pearl_Harbor-to-Diamond_Head-Kotzebue-1817-portion-400
Honolulu_Harbor_to_Diamond_Head-Wall-Reg1690-1893
Honolulu_Harbor_to_Diamond_Head-Wall-Reg1690-1893
Honolulu Harbor Light - Harbor Wink -DAGS Honolulu (1887) GoogleEarth-1869
Honolulu Harbor Light – Harbor Wink -DAGS Honolulu (1887) GoogleEarth-1869

Filed Under: Economy, Place Names, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks Tagged With: Hawaii, Esplanade, Honolulu Harbor, Historic Maps

March 4, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Diamond Head Lighthouse

Diamond Head serves as a landmark as ships approach Honolulu Harbor from the west side of Oʻahu.

With the increase of commerce calling at the port of Honolulu, a lookout was established in 1878 on the seaward slopes of Diamond Head for spotting and reporting incoming vessels.

The first attendant, John Peterson from Sweden and known as “Lighthouse Charlie,” spotted incoming vessels through a telescope.

In 1893, ‘SS Miowera’ ran aground at Diamond Head prompting the Hawaiian legislature to recommend a lighthouse be established at Diamond Head. Then, ‘China’ ran aground, finally causing construction of an iron tower to begin.

A 40’ open frame tower was constructed at Honolulu Iron Works. In 1898, the Hawaiian legislature deemed the lighthouse tower should be masonry, not skeletal iron.

Its light was first lit on July 1, 1899. The light had a red sector to mark dangerous shoals and reefs. (As an aside, the first lighthouse in the Pacific was built on Maui in 1840; the first in Honolulu in 1869.)

In 1904, a floor was added to the tower, 14’ above ground level. Windows were placed in 2 existing openings in the tower walls and telephone lines were installed in the tower.

However, over a decade later, cracks were noted in the structure, compromising the tower’s integrity. In 1917, funds were allocated for constructing a fifty-five-foot tower of reinforced concrete on the original foundation.

The old tower was replaced with the modern concrete structure, which strongly resembles the original tower.

One notable difference is that the old tower had an external staircase that wrapped partway around the tower, whereas the new tower houses an internal, cast-iron, spiral stairway.

In 1921, a light keeper’s home was built nearby. A keeper occupied the dwelling for just three years, as the station was automated in 1924.

In 1939, the light station was turned over to the Coast Guard.

During World War II, a small structure was built on the seaward side of the tower and a Coast Guard radio station was housed in the keeper’s dwelling.

Following the war, in 1946, the radio station was moved to its present site in Wahiawa. The dwelling was remodeled and has since been home to the Commanders of the Fourteenth Coast Guard District.

The Diamond Head light was built 147 feet above sea level and can be seen as far away as 18 miles. It has the intensity of 60,000 candlepower. To warn vessels of the reefs off of Waikiki Beach, a red sector shows.

Fully automatic, its 1,000-watt electric lamp continues to guide ships to O‘ahu and is among the best-known lighthouses in the world.

In 1980, the Diamond Head Lighthouse was placed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Besides continuing its nightly vigil noting the land and reefs off Diamond Head, the lighthouse also serves as one end of the finish line for the biennial Transpac Yacht Race, which starts 2,225 nautical miles away from Point Fermin, at the southern edge of Los Angeles, California.

While at DLNR, I had the opportunity to attend a reception hosted by Admiral Sally Brice-O’Hara, then-Commander of the 14th Coast Guard District at the Diamond Head Lighthouse. Yes, the location and view from this site is one of the best in Hawaiʻi.

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Diamond Head Lighthouse
Diamond Head Lighthouse
Diamond_Head_Lighthouse-steel_frame (temporary posting Ok’d by Lighthousefriends-com)
Diamond_Head_Lighthouse-steel_frame (temporary posting Ok’d by Lighthousefriends-com)
Diamond_Head_Lighthouse-early (temporary posting Ok’d by Lighthousefriends-com)
Diamond_Head_Lighthouse-early (temporary posting Ok’d by Lighthousefriends-com)
Diamond Head Lighthouse-Babcock
Diamond Head Lighthouse-Babcock
Diamond-Head-Lighthouse
Diamond-Head-Lighthouse
Diamond Head Light, Oahu Island -1960
Diamond Head Light, Oahu Island -1960
DiamondHeadLightHouse
DiamondHeadLightHouse
Diamond_Head_Light
Diamond_Head_Light
Diamond Head Light guards the south shore of Oahu at that noted landmark east of Waikiki Beach, guarding the approaches to Honolulu Harbor. The old keeper's house is the official residence of the Commandant of the Coast Guard's 14th District.
Diamond Head Light guards the south shore of Oahu at that noted landmark east of Waikiki Beach, guarding the approaches to Honolulu Harbor. The old keeper’s house is the official residence of the Commandant of the Coast Guard’s 14th District.
Diamond Head Light guards the south shore of Oahu at that noted landmark east of Waikiki Beach, guarding the approaches to Honolulu Harbor. The old keeper's house is the official residence of the Commandant of the Coast Guard's 14th District.
Diamond Head Light guards the south shore of Oahu at that noted landmark east of Waikiki Beach, guarding the approaches to Honolulu Harbor. The old keeper’s house is the official residence of the Commandant of the Coast Guard’s 14th District.
Diamond_Head_Lighthouse-Transpac_Finish
Diamond_Head_Lighthouse-Transpac_Finish

Filed Under: Economy, General, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks Tagged With: Diamond Head Lighthouse, Honolulu Harbor, Coast Guard, Hawaii, Diamond Head

February 28, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Fort Kekuanohu

Russians arrived in Hawaii in 1804 on ships associated with the Russian-American Fur Trading Company stationed at what is now Sitka, Alaska, to obtain fruit, vegetables and meat.

During this timeframe, Hawai‘i served as an important provisioning site for traders, whalers and others crossing the Pacific.

On O‘ahu, in 1815, Kamehameha I granted Russian representatives permission to build a storehouse near Honolulu Harbor.

But, instead, directed by the German adventurer Georg Schaffer (1779-1836,) they began building a fort and raised the Russian flag.

They built their blockhouse near the harbor, against the ancient heiau of Pākākā and close to the King’s complex. There are reports that the Russians used stones from Pākākā in building their facility.

As a side note, Pākākā was the site of Kauai’s King Kaumuali‘i’s negotiations relinquishing power to Kamehameha I, instead of going to war, and pledged allegiance to Kamehameha, a few years earlier in 1810.

When Kamehameha discovered the Russians were building a fort (rather than storehouses) and had raised the Russian flag, he sent several chiefs, along with John Young (his advisor,) to remove the Russians from Oʻahu by force, if necessary.

The Russian personnel judiciously chose to sail for Kauai instead of risking bloodshed. On Kauai, there they were given land by Kauai’s King Kaumuali‘i; the Russian Fort Elizabeth was built soon after on Kaua‘i.

The partially built blockhouse at Honolulu was finished by Hawaiians under the direction of John Young and mounted guns protected the fort.

Its original purpose was to protect Honolulu by keeping enemy or otherwise undesirable ships out. But, it was also used to keep things in (it also served as a prison.)

By 1830, the fort had 40 guns mounted on the parapets all of various calibers (6, 8, 12 and probably a few 32 pounders.) Fort Kekuanohu literally means ‘the back of the scorpion fish,’ as in ‘thorny back,’ because of the rising guns on the walls. In 1838 there were 52 guns reported.

The fort protected Honolulu Harbor and also housed a number of administrative functions, including many years of service as Honolulu’s police headquarters. The first courts of the islands were held here until a new courthouse was built in 1853, adjacent to the fort.

Barracks, Officers’ quarters, the Governor’s House, prison cells, a guardhouse and several powder magazines were inside the 340-by-300-foot long, 12-foot high and 20-foot thick walls. The main entrance faced mauka, up Fort Street.

The fort’s massive 12-foot walls were torn apart and the fort dismantled in 1857 and used to fill the harbor to accommodate an expanding downtown.

Fort Street is one of the oldest streets in Honolulu and is named after this fort. Today, the site of the old fort is the open space called Walker Park, a small park at the corner of Queen and Fort streets (also fronting Ala Moana/Nimitz.)

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No._1._View_of_Honolulu._From_the_harbor._Burgess-(c._1854)
No._1._View_of_Honolulu._From_the_harbor._Burgess-(c._1854)
Louis_Choris_-_'Vue_du_port_hanarourou'-Port_of_Honolulu-1816
Honolulu_Fort_by_George_Henry_Burgess,_c._1857
Honolulu_Fort_by_George_Henry_Burgess,_c._1857
Fort of Honolulu-John_Colburn-visited Honolulu twice during the voyage-July 8-23, 1837 and May 31-June 10, 1839
Fort of Honolulu-John_Colburn-visited Honolulu twice during the voyage-July 8-23, 1837 and May 31-June 10, 1839
Interior_of_the_Fort,_Honolulu_Harbor-1830s-1840s
Interior_of_the_Fort,_Honolulu_Harbor-1830s-1840s
Honolulu_Fort_(PP-36-5-001)-1837
Honolulu_Fort_(PP-36-5-001)-1837
Honolulu Waterfront-Fort-Prison-Judiciary
Honolulu Waterfront-Fort-Prison-Judiciary
Dr. Thomas T. Waterman inspecting old cannon from the old Fort, Honolulu.-PP-37-4-008
Dr. Thomas T. Waterman inspecting old cannon from the old Fort, Honolulu.-PP-37-4-008
Canon from Honolulu Fort (Kekuanohu) (1816) which was demolished 1857.
Canon from Honolulu Fort (Kekuanohu) (1816) which was demolished 1857.
Fort_Elizabeth-visualization-Molodin-portion-400
Fort_Elizabeth-visualization-Molodin-portion-400

Filed Under: Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance, Buildings Tagged With: Hawaii, Fort Kekuanohu, Russians in Hawaii, Honolulu Harbor, Kaumualii, Kamehameha, Russian American Company

February 15, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Honolulu, 1810

This reconstructed map (from Bishop Museum Press,) reportedly a reasonably accurate depiction of Honolulu in 1810, is based on three documents:

John Papa ʻĪʻī recorded the location of trails and various sites in Honolulu between 1810 and 1812 in his “Fragments of Hawaiian History;” a sketch map made by lieutenant Charles Malden of HBMS Blonde in 1825; and a government road map of 1870.

The map notes locations of uses in 1810 with subsequent road alignments as of 1870 – the present day street alignments are generally similar to the 1870 road alignments.

They say a picture is worth a thousand words. For me, maps and pictures capture moments in time and, in doing so, tell us stories. I love maps, especially old ones, because of the stories they tell.

This map tells lots of stories. Here are highlights on some.

The first thing that jumps out at you is the timeframe and location of the map – 1810 in Honolulu.

As you will recall, 1810 marks the ultimate unification of the Hawaiian Islands.

It was here, in 1810, at Pākākā (the point jutting into the harbor,) where negotiations between King Kaumuali‘i of Kaua‘i and Kamehameha I took place – Kaumuali‘i ceded Kauaʻi and Ni‘ihau to Kamehameha and the Hawaiian Islands were unified under a single leader.

This time and place marks the beginning of the unified islands. This location continues to be the center of commerce, government, finance, etc in the State.

A bit more history: Kamehameha I, who had been living at Waikiki since 1804, moved his Royal Center there in 1809. His immediate court consisted of high-ranking chiefs and their retainers.

Those who contributed to the welfare and enjoyment of court members also lived here, from fishermen and warriors to foreigners and chiefs of lesser rank. (Kamehameha’s home and surrounding support uses are noted with his name (adjoining Pākākā.))

In those days, this area was not called Honolulu. Instead, each land section had its own name (as noted on the map.)

There are reports that the old name for Honolulu was said to be Kou, a district roughly encompassing the present day area from Nuʻuanu to Alakea Streets and from Hotel to Queen Streets, which is the heart of the present downtown district.

Honolulu Harbor, also known as Kuloloia, was entered by the first foreigner, Captain William Brown of the English ship Butterworth, in 1794. He named the harbor “Fair Haven.”

The name Honolulu (meaning “sheltered bay” – with numerous variations in spelling) soon came into use.

As you can tell by the overlaying 1870 road map, it is obvious that following this timeframe, the fringe reefs noted on the map were filled in and land added to the water front. (In 1810, the waterfront was along the present Queen Street.)

Between 1857 and 1870 a combination of fill and dredging formed the “Esplanade” (not labeled on this map (because it’s over the reef) between Fort and Merchant Streets, creating the area where Aloha Tower is now located.)

In 1907, the reefs fronting the Kakaʻako area (on the right of the map) were filled in to make Fort Armstrong.

Fort Street, one of the oldest streets in Honolulu, was not named for Fort Armstrong; it was named after Fort Kekuanohu (aka Fort Honolulu,) constructed in 1816 by Kamehameha.

Today, the site of the fort is generally at the open space now called Walker Park, a small park at the corner of Queen and Fort streets (there is a canon from the old fort there) – (Ewa side of the former Amfac Center, now the Topa Financial Plaza, with the fountain.)

The left section of the map (where Nuʻuanu Stream empties into the harbor) identifies the area known as Kapuukolo; this is “where white men and such dwelt.”

Of the approximate sixty foreign residents on O‘ahu at the time, nearly all lived in the village, and many were in the service of the king.

Among those who lived here were Don Francisco de Paula Marin, the Spaniard who greatly expanded horticulture in Hawaiʻi, and Isaac Davis (Welsh,) friend and co-advisor with (John Young (British)) to Kamehameha. (The Marin and Davis homesites are noted on the map.)

The large yam field (what is now much of the core of downtown Honolulu) was planted to provide visiting ships with an easily-stored food supply for their voyages (supplying ships with food and water was a growing part of the Islands’ economy.)

This map, and the stories it tells, gives us a glimpse into Hawai‘i’s past.

Campbell-Honolulu-1810_map_over_GoogleEarth
Downtown_Honolulu-sites-uses_noted-1870_roads_in_red-Map-1810
Downtown_Honolulu_Map-1810

Filed Under: General, Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance, Hawaiian Traditions, Prominent People, Economy Tagged With: Don Francisco de Paula Marin, Honolulu Harbor, Kaumualii, Aloha Tower, Fort Armstrong, Hawaii, Historic Maps, Isaac Davis, Old Maps, Honolulu, Kamehameha, Downtown Honolulu, Fort Kekuanohu, Kakaako

January 2, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Marine Railway

“In September the Government granted to A. G. Benson, of New York, a contract to build a Marine Railway at Honolulu, to cost from $75,000 to $100,000, to take up ships of 800 tons burthen, in ballast. The monopoly was to continue for twenty years.”

“The site of the proposed railway, which was given by government to Benson, was at the foot of Maunakea street, now the fish market. But nothing was ever done, beyond signing the contract, it was understood for the want of funds”. (Saturday Press, April 22, 1882; Maly)

“Of the industries of Honolulu the operation of the Marine Railway is one of the most important in a variety of ways. It gives employment to much skilled labor, thus helping to keep a good class of people in the city. By a large consumption of shipbuilding material, the railway adds much directly to local trade”

“Its existence is a powerful inducement for shipping in these seas to call at this port for needed repairs; also for vessels trading between this and foreign ports to have works of renovation done here that, without such a convenience, they would require to go to San Francisco or elsewhere to have accomplished.”

“When it is considered that vessels while waiting for repairs are the means of circulating money from outside sources, in addition to the expenditure of the railway workmen’s wages in the shops, the importance of the work, in that respect alone, to the city needs no magnifying.”

“As a convenience for inter-island shipping, which was one of the main objects held in view by the projectors of the enterprise, the railway has been a boon of incalculable value. It would be needless to go into particulars to prove this manifest advantage of having such a work established in the chief port of the kingdom.”

“The Honolulu Marine Railway is a monument to the statesmanlike forethought, public spirit and enterprise of the Hon. Samuel G. Wilder.”

“In the year 1880 the Government of this kingdom, of which Mr. Wilder was Premier and Minister of the Interior, advertised in England, America, France and Sweden, for estimates from engineers for either a dry dock or marine railway at Honolulu.”

“Of all the responses received the estimates of Mr. Horace I. Crandall, forwarded through the Hawaiian Consulate of Boston, were accepted. In April, 1881, Mr. Crandall arrived here to make the necessary surveys.”

“After an examination of the harbor and its bottom he reported to the authorities that a stationary dry dock was impracticable, on account of the coral formation, that would form its floor, being so porous that it would be impossible to keep it dry, even at an enormous expense for pumping.”

“A floating dry dock was also out of the question on account of the circumscribed limits of the harbor. A marine railway was therefore decided upon by the Government, and Messrs. Wilder & Co. contracted to build it, the head of the firm having in the meantime retired from His Majesty’s Cabinet.”

“Of course, Mr. Crandall was selected as engineer, and in view of his record, particularly as a submarine engineer, it would indeed have been difficult to have found a better man.”

“In the year 1854, while living at New Bedford, Massachusetts, he invented an improved style of marine railway, since known as ‘Crandall’s Patent Marine Hallway.’”

“Up to the time he became known here, Mr. Crandall had built no less than twenty-three of these railways on the coasts of North and South America, from North Sydney in Nova Scotia to Buenos Ayres, Argentine Republic.”

“In addition to these works, he had built an important bridge on one of the Pacific Railway lines, and was for a time proprietary manager of a coal mine in Cape Breton, N. S.”

“He was also the author of many mechanical inventions of great utility, and is a relative of Mr. James Crandall, of the United States, the inventor of the famous and ingenious ‘Crandall’s Toys.’”

“The work of construction was begun on the railway on February 11th, 1882. A large amount of material for filling up the ground on the site being required, it was necessary to build a land railway from the spot to the base of Punchbowl.”

“This work was accomplished under the mechanical superintendence of Mr. James Lyle, who had been employed as foreman of the works.”

“He had been Mr. Crandall’s foreman, many years previous, in the construction of the Buenos Ayres marine railway, and also in later works of the same kind at other places.”

“Mr. Crandall came out in the same season from Canada, with a brigade consisting of two skillful divers, thirteen shipwrights accustomed to marine railway work, and one mechanical engineer. So expeditiously was the work forwarded that on the first day of January, 1881, the railway was ready for business.”

“The engines for the railway were made at Geo. Forester & Co.’s works. Liverpool, England, and all the wrought iron work, chains, etc., were made by Henry Wood & Co., Liverpool. Oregon forests provided the wood, the native woods being too heavy, as well as difficult to get and work.”

“The railway has a capacity for vessels of fifteen hundred tons with ballast. It cost in the neighborhood of one hundred thousand dollars to build.”

“Upon the completion of the railway it was leased for fifteen years from the Government by the Hon. Mr. Wilder. lie operated it successfully until Feb. of the present year, when, with the permission of the Government, he made a transfer of the lease to Messrs. Sorenson & Lyle, the latter having been superintendent of the works from the start.”

“Mr. Sorenson is the veteran master shipwright of this port, having been engaged in that business here for about 27 years. Many a gallant craft has he ‘hove down,’ when that was the only method in vogue here, and transformed from the condition or a more or less battered and fouled hulk to her original seaworthiness.”

“Mr. Lyle, his partner, has spent his whole life in shipyards and on dry-docks and marine railways. His father was a leading ship-builder in Nova Scotia, a country second to none for the class of wooden ships it sends forth, whoso sails speck every sea with whiteness.”

“Shipbuilding is therefore second nature to both members of the firm now operating the Honolulu Marine Railway.”

“Ample stocks of material are always at hand, and shipowners and masters sending vessels away from here for rehabilitation cannot possibly fare any better in obtaining the required services elsewhere.”

“Every facility is here provided for ship and boat building and repairing. As no slight guarantee to the safety of the works and the assurance of prompt service thereupon, the fact may be stated that from the beginning of operations to the present time there has been no mishap of any kind on the railway.”

“A thorough ship’s blacksmith, in the person of Mr. Hugh Munro, is employed at the works constantly, and his execution of any kind of ship’s forging cannot be excelled in workmanship. Then the Honolulu Iron Works can always, in an emergency, provide any ordinary metallic fittings of a ship, so that on the whole this port is exceedingly well equipped for repairing ships.”

A ‘Marine Railway’ “is an inclined railway, descending from a repairing shipyard into deep water. A heavy platform with high frames at the sides, called the cradle, slides upon series of rollers running in grooves in ironclad timber rails.”

“A system of chains connected with powerful steam winches is employed to let the cradle down into deep water and haul it up again. When the cradle is run out into a sufficient depth, the vessel to be hauled up is floated between the arms of the cradle.”

“Then a system of movable blocks, worked by cranks from the tops of the cradle frames, grasps the hull of the vessel, and the cradle and its burthen are drawn up high and dry.” (Daily Bulletin, August 14, 1885)

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Lyle and Sorenson’s 'Marine Railway'-north_end_of_Kakaako-1885
Lyle and Sorenson’s ‘Marine Railway’-north_end_of_Kakaako-1885
Marine Railway-Bertram
Marine Railway-Bertram

Filed Under: Economy, General, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks Tagged With: Hawaii, Honolulu Harbor, Marine Railway

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Images of Old Hawaiʻi

People, places, and events in Hawaiʻi’s past come alive through text and media in “Images of Old Hawaiʻi.” These posts are informal historic summaries presented for personal, non-commercial, and educational purposes.

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