Images of Old Hawaiʻi

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

From Job to Job Around the World

In 1907, Alfred Charles Benson Fletcher graduated from the University of California, where he was a leading figure on the campus. He was editor of the Daily Californian, prominent in other affairs, and a member of the Golden Bear and Winged Helmet honor societies and the Psi Upsilon fraternity.

He decided to take a graduate course in the school of hard knocks and see the world on his nerve and native hardihood and made “a three-year trip … around the world, starting from San Francisco with only a five-dollar gold piece and earning [his] way.”

“[His] wanderings took [him] to Hawaii [and multiple other countries and boasted that his travels show] that it is possible to work one’s way around the world and do so with a considerable degree of comfort.”

“‘The loveliest fleet of islands that lie anchored in any ocean,’ were the words in which Mark Twain once described the Hawaiian group, and the time we spent in the ‘Paradise of the Pacific’ proved to be one of the most enjoyable periods of the trip.”

The following is a portion of his account of his experiences in Hawai‘i that he wrote in his book (of the same title as this summary) in 1916; his recollections give some insight into Hawai‘i at that time …

“‘What’s the trouble? Are you seasick or homesick?’ cordially inquired [Ralph J] Richardson, approaching a stranger who was hanging over the side of a ship bound for Honolulu.”

“‘Neither, my friend,’ I replied with a smile.”

“These were the initial sentences of a dialogue which was happily destined to continue for three years.”

He two were “starting out on a similar expedition – a trip around the world.” He and the friend he met onboard the SS Alameda out of San Francisco had “A combined wealth of less than ten dollars and the wide, wide world in front of us!”

“We agreed not to make any definite plans; we mapped out no itinerary, except the general one of around the world; we had no elaborate scheme of travel nor ideas of how we were to make our way, but decided to resign ourselves to chance and bang around, taking whatever came along.”

“My idea was to explore the earth before I was anchored by matrimony, and Richardson wanted to see all of this world before he went to the next. We set out not as tourists–that familiar species of humanity–but as two refined American tramps. …”

“The six days it takes to go to Honolulu from San Francisco were spent as such days are usually spent at sea, talking and reading in the morning, shuffle-board and other games in the afternoon, singing and spooning in the evening–on the whole a civilised trip. On the morning of the seventh day we arrived in the harbour of Honolulu.”

“After being amused by a group of native boys diving for coins thrown by all passengers except ourselves–who felt inclined to strip and join the divers – the ship was soon alongside and in a short time we were mingling with the cosmopolitan inhabitants on the streets of Honolulu.”

“The next day found each of us enrolled on the teaching staff of two different schools. We became school teachers! … Richardson affiliated himself with Mills Institute, a school under the control of the Hawaiian Board of the Congregational Church Missionary organisation.”

“I assumed the duties of teacher of the fourth and fifth grades in Iolani School, a parochial institution connected with Saint Andrew’s Cathedral …”.

“I have been surprised on many occasions at the ignorance displayed by people in the United States, and especially in the East, concerning the Territory of Hawaii.”

“They imagine that the natives are a half-clad race recently descended from cannibals, that Honolulu is a semi-civilised village of Hawaiian huts and that modern conveniences have not yet found their way to the islands.”

“Honolulu is a city of fifty thousand people, of whom a large number are Orientals and but a few thousand are Americans. … Honolulu is one of the most beautiful and up-to-date cities of its size under the American flag.”

“It was in this paradise that Richardson and I began our wanderings. During the recesses we had from our school duties we explored the island of Oahu, upon which Honolulu is situated, and became as familiar with it as the average man is with his own back yard.”

“We learned to ride the surf at Waikiki–the finest bathing beach in all the world. We climbed all the hills in the vicinity of Honolulu. We visited Diamond Head and its fortifications. We took a dip in the Kalihi swimming hole, and we explored the island from one end to the other.”

“Through the kindness of an American friend, we had at our disposal a summer cottage at Kaneohe, about twelve miles from Honolulu on the northern shore of the island. … It was situated on the beach of Kaneohe Bay.”

“At this ideal spot we spent many week-ends and, the whole time, we would go about clad in only a pair of trunks and devote the pleasant hours under the semi-tropical sun to swimming, boating and fishing.”

“Many a time since, I have longed for another few days’ stay at this little resort–to bathe in its sunshine and enjoy its outdoor pleasures undisturbed by the noise and bustle of civilisation. …”

“

We concluded that teaching stipends would never get us around the world. … We therefore decided to give up our schools and to rustle a more remunerative line of labour.”

“Hearing that the United States Navy Department needed inspectors for its operations in connection with the construction of the naval base at Pearl Harbour, about twelve miles from Honolulu, I wandered into the navy headquarters one morning and bluntly addressed the first man I saw.”

They studied for the exam to be inspectors, and passed the examination to obtain positions as sub-inspectors of dredging on the construction of the Pearl Harbour Naval Base.

Waiting for the job openings, they “decided to visit some of the other islands while awaiting developments. We wished to see Kilauea, the only active volcano in the Hawaiian archipelago, on the island of Hawaii, about one hundred and twenty-five miles south of Honolulu.”

“We also wished to see Haleakala, the largest extinct crater in the world on the island of Maui. We sailed on the S.S. Wilhelmina for Hawaii”.

“We landed at Hilo on the island of Hawaii early in the morning, and bought a third-class round-trip ticket for $1.60 to Glenwood, twenty-two miles distant. From Glenwood we walked the remaining nine miles to the Volcano House in two hours and fifteen minutes, rising two thousand feet and beating the stage by twenty minutes.”

“The road was a good thoroughfare through tropical forests of tree ferns, twenty feet in height; of ohia lehua, a tree belonging to the same family as the eucalyptus; koa or Hawaiian mahogany; wild bananas; papaia, water lemons, palms and wild roses.”

“On arriving at the Volcano House we had something to eat and then set out across the lava beds for three miles to Halemaumau–the active pit of the volcano–where we spent the night in a shack perched on its edge.

“It is extremely fascinating to sit on the edge of this pit and watch the incessant dashing and splashing of the glowing lava. It impressed even such homeless tramps as ourselves. …”

“The regular tourist rate from Honolulu to Kilauea is $59.50, which includes round-trip by boat, railroad fare from Hilo to Glenwood, stage charges to the Volcano House and board and room while there. Admitting that we missed a considerable degree of comfort, nevertheless, we saw all that the average tourist sees and at a cash outlay of only $2.10 each.”

They headed to Maui … “Huddled in the steerage of the Mauna Kea (one of the small steamers of the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Company) with a score of Chinese, Japanese and Hawaiians, we left Honolulu for McGregor’s Landing on the island of Maui to see the extinct volcano Haleakala.”

“The trip was a night’s journey and, as no sleeping accommodations are provided in the third-class of Hawaiian steamers, we bunked on the soft side of a coil of rope.”

“The ship arrived at McGregor’s Landing about five o’clock in the morning and we went ashore feeling anything but rested after a most wearisome night. We made a bargain with a Chinese hack driver to carry us to Kahului, eight miles across the island.”

“After breakfast we boarded a little narrow gauge train for Paia, a sugar plantation village a short distance up the coast on the slopes of Haleakala. We purchased a supply of provisions at the plantation store and were soon started on the twenty-mile climb to the top of the mountain.”

“Haleakala is just over ten thousand feet in elevation and the trail to the summit ascends on an average of five hundred feet to the mile. A trip up Haleakala proved to be far from a pleasure jaunt.”

“The first part of our walk from Paia past the huge sugar factory lay through the great cane fields of the Maui Agricultural Company, the second largest plantation in the Hawaiian Islands. The cane was being harvested and the Japanese cutters were as busy as bees all about us.”

“About ten o’clock we reached the four-thousand-foot level. The cane fields began to disappear and our path wound its way among banana farms and taro patches. …. The real climb began after midday.”

“We left fertile fields and were soon following the trail across the middle slopes of the mountain. There were few trees and the sun shone down from a cloudless sky. Our gait was easily under the speed limit, only about two miles an hour. It was a hard stony road over which we had to travel.”

“As we ascended the view began to widen out on every side. We could look back over the cane fields to the Pacific and see the breakers rolling ashore. Above us towered the mountain, the summit now and again lost in a fleecy cloud. We almost forgot the hardships of the climb with such a picture before us.”

“Although the ascent from Paia to the top can be made in a single day, we decided to break the journey about half way, spend the night and start out refreshed for the last stretch. We stopped at Idlewilde and put up in the summer home of a Kahului friend. We made an early start.”

[Apparently build as a rest house by Henry Perrine Baldwin, from 1901 until 1931, Worth Osbun Aiken (bookkeeper at Baldwin’s Haleakalā Ranch) ran a tour guide operation from the property called Idlewilde, located near the top of what is now referred to as Olinda Road. (DLNR)]

“The trail was plainly marked with guide posts, each tenth of a mile. Idlewilde is eight miles by trail from the summit and the ascent from this point is over five thousand feet – seven hundred to the mile. The first three or four miles were comparatively easy, for we were fresh and the footing was good.”

“About the fifth mile the real work began. The trail became steeper and steeper until it seemed straight up. We began to strike loose, volcanic dirt and sand. …._

“The high altitude made frequent stops necessary for breathing spells. Our progress was slow. The last three miles took over three hours. …”

“Suddenly the view of the great crater burst upon us. It is a sight I shall never forget. We had reached the top of the trail and were walking along a low wall of rock towards the mountain house.”

“We came to a break in the rock and in an instant Haleakala appeared before us. … In the morning we saw the greatest of all sunrises – a Haleakala Sunrise.”

After a few months in the Islands, they started to look “for passage to either Australia or the Orient … we decided to take the Asia to Yokohama. … We closed up our affairs in Honolulu, put our money into American Bankers’ Travelers’ checks, ate a few farewell meals, drank a few final toasts and were in readiness to depart.”

“The Royal Hawaiian Band played Aloha Oe, the ship got under way and we began the second leg of our trip with seven hundred dollars each in our pockets.”

He eventually “arrived home broke. [He] had been away three years, had circled the globe and had travelled over sixty thousand miles.” (Alfred CB Fletcher)

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Parker Ranch Manager’s House

“The early Waimea inhabitants resided typically within a pā hale (fenced house lot) with a sleeping house and adjacent protected cooking facility. The pā pōhaku (stone wall) surrounded the pā hale, and likely included within was a kīhāpai (garden).”

“The farming plot (‘apana) of the householder was located elsewhere within the agricultural zone of the respective ahupua’a. (Bergin; Windy McElroy)

“[I]n the Native Register, a man named Paukeaho lists a claim (#4513) for his house lot, and upland garden (‘āina mahi mauka) in Keanuiomano, an `ili near Haleaha.”

“In his claim Paukeaho states that are two gardens of taro ‘in the forest of this land (Native Testimony LCA 4513)’.  In the Native Testimony, the konohiki William Beckley testified that he has seen the house lot in his `ili land at Keanuiomano …”

“… and, while he agrees to ‘give’ Paukeaho the land that he has previously cultivated, Beckley testifies that he has ‘never known its boundaries (Native Testimony).’” (Michael Vitousek)

“The impacts of cattle on the habitation structures is shown indirectly in Paukeaho’s claim (Native Register #4513) which states that the house lot he has acquired from the konohiki William Beckley is enclosed in a stone wall (pa pohaku).  The stone wall was likely built to prevent damage from free-ranging herds of cattle.”

“There are numerous accounts in the Native Testimony and Native Register about fenced off, walled off house lots, or the desire on the part of the native tenants to fence or wall off their house lots in the future”. (Michael Vitousek)

A modern structure was built here.  The oldest part was built around 1885 and was first used as an Episcopal Church. (Wai‘ula‘ula Watershed Management Plan) Since the turn of the century this white house was the Parker Ranch manager’s house.

John Palmer Parker married Kipikane, the granddaughter of King Kamehameha. They had two sons, John II and Ebenezer, and a daughter, Mary Ann Kaulalani Parker. (Tracy)

When John died in 1868, he willed half of the Parker property each to son John II and grandson Samuel Parker (son of Ebenezer – Ebenezer died in 1855). In 1879, John II purchased the “Hawaiian Victorian” mansion, Puuopelu.

Originally built in 1862 by Englishman Charles Notley, Puuopelu became the heart of Parker Ranch. (This is not the white house that is the subject of this summary.)  (Paniolo Preservation Society)

John II adopted Samuel’s son John III to be heir of his half of the Ranch; John III married Elizabeth Jane Lanakila Dowsett but died shortly after his daughter, Annie Thelma Kahilu‘onāpua‘api‘ilani Parker, was born and his half of the estate was put in trust for their daughter, Thelma. (Tracy)

In 1879, John II purchased the “Hawaiian Victorian” mansion, Puuopelu. Originally built in 1862 by Englishman Charles Notley, Puuopelu became the heart of Parker Ranch.   (Paniolo Preservation Society)

John II adopted Samuel’s son John III to be heir of his half of the Ranch; John III married Elizabeth Jane Lanakila Dowsett but died shortly after his daughter, Annie Thelma Kahilu‘onāpua‘api‘ilani Parker, was born and his half of the estate was put in trust for their daughter, Thelma. (Tracy)

“[F]ollowing the death of JP Parker II in 1891, there was growing tension between Samuel Parker, estate trustees, and JP Parker III. The latter Parker died in 1894”. (Maly)

“On September 25, 1899, [Alfred Wellington] AW Carter was appointed guardian and trustee of Thelma Parker … In accepting the appointment as guardian and trustee, AW relinquished several opportunities that other men would have found difficult to abandon …”

“… a lucrative law career in the burgeoning city of Honolulu, president of Charles R. Bishop Trust, an executive career with Bishop Bank, deputy attorney general, judge of the First Circuit Court, and trusteeship of Bernice Pauahi Bishop’s estate.” (Bergin)

“When AW assumed the reins of the ranch, the combined total of fee simple land owned by Thelma K Parker and her natural grandfather Sam Parker amounted to only some 34,000 acres, with large parcels under lease.” (Bergin)

The AW Carter moved into the home (the 1885 structure referenced above that had been used as an Episcopal Church)  – it was painted white (but the name Hale Kea (White House) did not take hold until a subsequent owner).

“It served as a home for Carter and his family for 60 years and included bunk houses on site for ranch hands. Many of the current gardens were originally pastureland and corrals.” (Landry Fuller, West Hawaii Today, Dec 10, 2018)

“Mr. Carter – AW was very strict for the good, you know. And people respected him for that. He was a father to the employees, and their families. And he just didn’t want to see anything go wrong within the families.”

“(Though) he was soft within himself, he was (a strict person). (However,) he was an easy man to talk to. He would give you a straight answer.” (Elizabeth Kimura, Oral History Interview)

“I saw the home when occupied by Hartwell Carter, AW’s son. It was very well kept,” historian and Waimea resident Billy Bergin said.” (Landry Fuller, West Hawaii Today, Dec 10, 2018)

In 1906, Sam Parker sold his interest to Thelma Parker’s trust, and she became the sole heir to the Parker Ranch. Thelma Parker married Henry Gaillard Smart when she was eighteen.

In 1913, Richard Palmer Smart was born to Thelma and Henry (a daughter died young). In 1914, both Thelma and Henry Smart died before Richard was two years old. (South Kohala CDP)

Then, on his 20th birthday, Richard became the sole owner of Parker Ranch. He entrusted AW Carter with ranch operations while he followed his heart to the footlights of Broadway and fashionable clubs in New York and Paris.

Over the years, AW and his son Hartwell Carter developed the ranch and increased land holdings to about 500,000 acres. (Paniolo Preservation Society)

Richard came back to the island in 1960 and set about making Puuopelu into his grand estate. … In 1986, Richard decided to move his ancestral home, Mana Hale, to the grounds at Puuopelu. Walls, floors and ceilings were taken down, numbered and reassembled into a replica of the original home.  (Paniolo Preservation Society)

Richard Smart, last remaining heir to the Parker Dynasty, took over Ranch operations from Hartwell Carter, son of AW Carter during the middle of the 20th century. (South Kohala CDP)

Then, a new proposed use of the white house was reported in the papers … “Mauna Kea Hunting Lodge will offer a quarter-million acres of land and a boundless sea to its members when it open in September, in time for the finest hunting season in the Pacific.”

“Pacific Resorts, Inc., yesterday announced final plans on the construction of the $1-million sportsman’s hunting club at Waimea, Hawaii in the heart of the famed Parker Ranch.” (Adv, Apr 3,1960)

“Plans are being made in cooperation with the State Department of Agriculture and Forestry to establish a Hawaiian Hahai – a big game shoot to rival the international fame of the African safari or the Indian shikar.”  (Adv, Apr 3,1960)

“Focal point of the club’s extensive grounds at Waimea will be the Parker Ranch manager’s home.  The century-old white house will be the clubhouse with dining facilities, a bar, gaming and trophy rooms.”  (Adv, Apr 3,1960)

“An initial 20 cottages … will dot the grounds so situated to take advantage of the exhilarating view of a waterfall that cascades and forms two pools on the property.”

Shortly after, “[Laurance] Rockefeller, an American philanthropist and businessman, purchased the property in the mid-1960s and lived there while building the Kohala Coast’s first hotel – Mauna Kea Beach Hotel.”

“During that time the property was expanded and grew to its present size. Some of his personal guests included Jackie Kennedy and Henry Kissinger.” (Landry Fuller, West Hawaii Today, Dec 10, 2018)

“In the 1970s and ‘80s, Waimea rancher and businessman William White owned the property and used it as his private residence. … [I]t was Bill (White) who gave it the name ‘Hale Kea’ [White House].” (Landry Fuller, West Hawaii Today, Dec 10, 2018)

“In 1989, developers from Kauai [operators of Kilohana plantation estate] opened the estate to the public with shops and a popular restaurant named Hartwell’s.” (Landry Fuller, West Hawaii Today, Dec 10, 2018)

White sublet the property and its name was changed to Jacaranda Inn. That operated for a number of years. Tax office records note that in April 2021, the lease/or subleases over the property were cancelled and the property is held by Parker Ranch Foundation Trust.

Also here was “Waimea’s rain rock, Manaua, named for the resident moo wahine – guardian lizard of Kohakohau stream.” (WHT, Aug 22, 2017) “In times of drought, the elders in Waimea remember the mo‘o wahine, or female water spirit, and the comfortably sloped rock where the old stories say she comes to sun herself.”

“The rock is known as Manaua, and after the long drought … Hawaiian cultural practitioners began leaving … offerings there in a tradition that is supposed to bring rain.”

“According to local legend, the mo’o wahine lives at a pond some distance from the rock, and when she sees the offerings at Manaua, she realizes the people remember her. … Then the rains resumed in some mauka areas, and after the offerings were made, the water reserves climbed”. (Adv, July 6, 2007)

“‘When AW Carter lived, he knew the story about the rain god. The rain god is the stone.’ said [Anna] Perry-Fiske, sitting in her pristine ranch house amid cowhide throw rugs and bouquets of roses from her lush garden. AW Carter, she explained. was an important honcho of Parker Ranch in the old days.”

“When Parker Ranch sold Hale Kea to Rockefeller, said Perry-Fiske, they held onto the small hunk of property where the rain stone lies. ‘Whenever there was a drought, there’d be a lei made. It would be put on the rain stone. And there would be rain,’ said Perry-Fiske.”

“‘Well, I don’t believe. But I said, people who do believe, they should hurry up quick and do it.’ So last week the ranch folks cleared off the stone.”

“‘They put on a real big lei,” said Perry-Fiske. ‘The next day it rained. And my friends called and said, ‘Maybe this will make you believe.’ And it stopped raining. And I said, quick, go put another lei on. …” Then it started raining.

“And as it rained, Perry-Fiske said ‘you’d have thought I was at a football game, because I was chanting ‘a little bit more, a little bit more.’” (Adv, Feb 11, 1981)

© 2026 Ho‘okuleana LLC

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

FDR in Hawaiʻi

“The President will spend the day fishing off Napoopoo, Hawaii.” (July 24, 1934) Thus began President Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s (FDR) visit to the Islands (the first sitting US President to visit Hawaiʻi.)

Earlier on his trip (on the way to the Islands, at Cocos Island off Costa Rico,) “Franklin Roosevelt Jr, had the best catch in the fishing yesterday – a 35 pound ono, the largest fish caught so far on the cruise. The president caught a bonito and John Roosevelt a pompano.” (Edwardsville Intelligencer, July 14, 1934)

The party fished off the island from the launch specially reconstructed for the president’s use. They didn’t have the same luck in Hawaiʻi. Some suggest the fish heard of the president’s wish to fish and “Good Fishing” advertisements.

The president’s Hawaiʻi catch was limited to only a few small fish. Local fishers noted, never talk about “it” in advance. The fish heard and they left. (Manning)

In July 1934, FDR traversed the Pacific aboard the USS Houston, debarked at both the ports of Hilo and Honolulu, and stayed in the Islands for several days (July 24-28, 1934) to tour both cultural landmarks and military areas.

The visit was a stopover on a cruise starting July 1, 1934 at Annapolis going on to Portland, with stops in the Bahamas, Haiti, Puerto Rico, St Thomas, St Croix, Columbia, Panama, Cocos Island and Clipperton Island.

When FDR arrived at Honolulu he was greeted by an estimated 60,000-people, including a flotilla of outrigger canoes. He was adorned with customary flower lei, was an honored guest at a traditional lūʻau complete with a kalua pig.

“Costumed as King Kamehameha the Great, Duke rode out merrily by double canoe to greet him, and showed FDR’s sons how to paddle an outrigger.” (NY Times) Roosevelt’s two sons even took surfing lessons with the legendary Duke Kahanamoku.

The battery at Fort Armstrong fired a 21-gun salute in his honor, while the Marine band played the National Anthem. A few moments later, the president engaged in a whirlwind tour of the island of Oʻahu.

He stopped in Kaʻaʻawa during a round-the-island drive on Thursday, July 26, 1934; the president was welcomed by teachers and students at Kaʻaʻawa School – he was entertained with a hula.

Prior to his arrival, the City of Honolulu used funds provided by FDR’s New Deal Project to create a city park along a portion the waterfront between downtown and Waikīkī (back then, it was a swamp and the Honolulu garbage dump.)

On July 27, 1934, FDR participated in the dedication of the new 76-acre ‘Moana Park’ (it was renamed Ala Moana Park in 1947.) He remarked, “I am very, very glad to take part in the dedication of this park and I know that it will be a great service and great pleasure to the people of Honolulu for many, many generations to come.”

On his visit to ʻIolani Palace, there were plans for the president to plant a memorial Kamani tree on the Palace grounds. A Kamani sapling was ordered from the nursery; however, mistakenly, the sapling delivered just before the ceremony began turned out to be a Kukui. (The Kukui tree is the Hawaiʻi state tree.)

Roosevelt’s tree is identified by a plaque, placed in 1959, which reads: “President Franklin D Roosevelt planted this kukui tree July 28, 1934.” It was later considered the “lucky kukui tree” and was credited by some with Roosevelt’s good fortunes in the 1936, 1940 and 1944 elections.  (He also planted a banyan tree on Banyan Drive in Hilo.)

He made a stop at Shriner’s hospital and visited with some of the children who shared the infliction he had come to live with, polio.

On leaving the Islands (July 28, 1934,) FDR first proceeded to Molokai for fishing; after fishing there, he sailed for the mainland.

The FDR Presidential Library houses several gifts Roosevelt received during the 1934 visit, including: a desk lamp, given to FDR by the Māmalahoa Chapter, Number Two, Order of Kamehameha; a model of an outrigger canoe from the Hawaiian Japanese Civic Association; a coconut shell bowl from the Waipahu Filipino Social Club; a handmade calabash bowl from the Hawaii Chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution and a wooden canoe paddle inscribed in Hawaiian from the Royal Order of Kamehameha.

In his farewell remarks he noted, “I leave you today with reluctance, for the friendly spirit and the generous reception given me everywhere by the people of the Islands of the Territory make me greatly wish that my visit could be prolonged.”

“I leave also with pride in Hawaiʻi – pride in your patriotism and in your accomplishments. The problems you are solving are the problems of the whole Nation, and your Administration in Washington will not forget that you are in very truth an integral part of the Nation.”

“In a fine old prayer for our country are found these words: ‘Fashion into one happy people those brought hither out of many kindreds and tongues.’ That prayer is being answered in the Territory of Hawaiʻi.”

“You have a fine historic tradition in the ancient people of the Islands and I am glad that this is so well maintained. You have built on it – built on it wisely – and today men and women and children from many lands are united in loyalty to and understanding of the high purposes of America.”

“And so, my friends, I leave you my gratitude for all the kindnesses you have shown me. I carry with me the hope that I shall have the opportunity to return. … Aloha from the bottom of my heart.” (Lots of information here is from FDR Library, Navy History, Manning, Chapin)

Here’s a short video made prior to his trip.

© 2026 Hoʻokuleana LLC

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

ʻŌpūkahaʻia Leaves Hawaiʻi

Hostilities of Kamehameha’s conquest on Hawai‘i Island supposedly ended with the death of Keōua at Kawaihae Harbor in early-1792 and the placement of the vanquished chief’s body at Puʻukoholā Heiau at Kawaihae.

The island was under the rule of Kamehameha.  However, after a short time, another chief entered into a power dispute with Kamehameha; his name was Nāmakehā.

In 1795, Kamehameha asked Nāmakehā, who lived in Kaʻū, Hawai‘i, for help in fighting Kalanikūpule and his Maui forces on O‘ahu, but Nāmakehā ignored the invitation. Instead, he opted to rebel against Kamehameha by tending to his enemies in Kaʻū, Puna and Hilo on Hawai‘i Island.

Hostilities erupted between the two. The battle took place at Hilo.  Kamehameha defeated Nāmakehā; his warriors next turned their rage upon the villages and families of the vanquished. The alarm was given of their approach.

A family, who had supported Nāmakehā, the father (Ke‘au) taking his wife (Kamohoʻula) and two children fled to the mountains. There he concealed himself for several days with his family in a cave.  (Brumaghim)  The warriors found the family and killed the adults.

A survivor, a son, ʻŌpūkahaʻia, was at the age of ten or twelve; both his parents were slain before his eyes.  The only surviving member of the family, besides himself, was an infant brother he hoped to save from the fate of his parents, and carried him on his back and fled from the enemy.

But he was pursued, and his little brother, while on his back, was killed by a spear from the enemy. Taken prisoner, because he was not young enough to give them trouble, nor old enough to excite their fears, ʻŌpūkahaʻia was not killed.

He was later turned over to his uncle, Pahua, who took him into his own family and treated him as his child. Pahua was a kahuna at Hikiʻau Heiau in Kealakekua Bay.

When Captain Vancouver visited the islands in the 1790s, he provided the following description of Hikiʻau:
“Adjoining one side of the Square was the great Morai (heiau,) where there stood a kind of steeple (‘anu‘u) that ran up to the height of 60 or 70 feet, it was in square form, narrowing gradually towards the top where it was square and flat; it is built of very slight twigs & laths, placed horizontally and closely, and each lath hung with narrow pieces of white Cloth.”

“… next to this was a House occupied by the Priests, where they performed their religious ceremonies and the whole was enclosed by a high railing on which in many parts were stuck skulls of those people, who had fallen victims to the Wrath of their Deity. …. In the center of the Morai stood a preposterous figure carved out of wood larger than life representing the … supreme deity… .”

John Papa ʻI‘i wrote that in ca. 1812-1813, shortly after Kamehameha’s return to Hawai‘i, the king celebrated the Makahiki and in the course of doing so he rededicated Hikiʻau, “the most important heiau in the district of Kona”.

This is the same place where Captain Cook landed on the Island of Hawaiʻi, across the bay from Hikiʻau Heiau is where Cook was later killed.

ʻŌpūkahaʻia’s uncle, wanting his nephew to follow him as a kahuna, taught ʻŌpūkahaʻia long prayers and trained him to the task of repeating them daily in the temple of the idol. This ceremony he sometimes commenced before sunrise in the morning, and at other times was employed in it during the whole or the greater part of the night.

ʻŌpūkahaʻia was not destined to be a kahuna.

He made a life-changing decision – not only which affected his life, but had a profound effect on the future of the Hawaiian Islands.

“I began to think about leaving that country, to go to some other part of the globe. I did not care where I shall go to. I thought to myself that if I should get away, and go to some other country, probably I may find some comfort, more than to live there, without father and mother.”  (ʻŌpūkahaʻia)

In 1807, he boarded an American a ship in Kealakekua Bay, the Triumph, under the command of Captain Brintnal; also on Board was Thomas Hopu.  They set sail for New York, stopping first in China (selling seal-skins and loading the ship with Chinese goods.)

Also on Board was Russell Hubbard, a son of Gen. Hubbard of New Haven, Connecticut.  “This Mr. Hubbard was a member of Yale College. He was a friend of Christ. Christ was with him when I saw him, but I knew it not.  ‘Happy is the man that put his trust in God!’  Mr. Hubbard was very kind to me on our passage, and taught me the letters in English spelling-book.”  (ʻŌpūkahaʻia)

In 1809, they landed at New York and remained there until the Captain sold out all the Chinese goods.   Then, they made their way to New England.

“In this place I become acquainted with many students belonging to the College. By these pious students I was told more about God than what I had heard before … Many times I wished to hear more about God, but find no body to interpret it to me. I attended many meetings on the sabbath, but find difficulty to understand the minister. I could understand or speak, but very little of the English language. Friend Thomas (Hopu) went to school to one of the students in the College before I thought of going to school.”  (ʻŌpūkahaʻia)

ʻŌpūkahaʻia’s life in New England was greatly influenced by many young men with proven sincerity and religious fervor that were active in the Second Great Awakening and the establishment of the missionary movement.  These men had a major impact on ʻŌpūkahaʻia’s enlightenment in Christianity and his vision to return to Hawaiʻi as a Christian missionary.

He was taken into the family of the Rev. Dr. Dwight, President of Yale College, for a season; where he was treated with kindness, and taught the first principles of Christianity.  At length, Mr. Samuel J. Mills, took him under his particular patronage, and sent him to live with his father, the Rev. Mr. Mills of Torringford.

By 1817, a dozen students, six of them Hawaiians, were training at the Foreign Mission School to become missionaries to teach the Christian faith to people around the world.

ʻŌpūkahaʻia improved his English by writing; the story of his life was later assembled into a book called “Memoirs of Henry Obookiah” (the spelling of his name based on its sound, prior to establishment of the formal Hawaiian alphabet.)  ʻŌpūkahaʻia, inspired by many young men with proven sincerity and religious fervor of the missionary movement, had wanted to spread the word of Christianity back home in Hawaiʻi; his book inspired 14-missionaries to volunteer to carry his message to the Sandwich Islands (now known as Hawaiʻi.)

On October 23, 1819, the Pioneer Company of missionaries from the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions (ABCFM) from the northeast United States, set sail on the Thaddeus for the Sandwich Islands (now known as Hawai‘i.)

There were seven couples sent to convert the Hawaiians to Christianity.   These included two Ordained Preachers, Hiram Bingham and his wife Sybil and Asa Thurston and his wife Lucy; two Teachers, Mr. Samuel Whitney and his wife Mercy and Samuel Ruggles and his wife Mary; a Doctor, Thomas Holman and his wife Lucia; a Printer, Elisha Loomis and his wife Maria; a Farmer, Daniel Chamberlain, his wife and five children.

Along with them were four Hawaiian youths who had been students at the Foreign Mission School at Cornwall Connecticut, Thomas Hopu (his friend on board the ship when he first left the Islands,) William Kanui, John Honoliʻi and Prince Humehume (son of Kauaiʻi’s King Kaumuali‘i and also known as Prince George Kaumuali‘i.)

Unfortunately, ʻŌpūkahaʻia died suddenly of typhus fever in 1818 and did not fulfill his dream of returning to the islands to preach the gospel.  (The bulk of the information here is from ʻŌpūkahaʻia’s “Memoirs of Henry Obookiah” and Papaʻula, 1867 in Brumaghim)

© 2026 Hoʻokuleana LLC

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Entourage

On November 27, 1823, L’Aigle, an English whaling ship under the command of Captain Valentine Starbuck, on which Kamehameha II (Liholiho), Kamāmalu, and their entourage traveled to England to gain firsthand experience in European ways.

The king and his chiefs agreed that Liholiho needed a competent interpreter to travel with him, and they asked Starbuck to permit the Englishman William Ellis and his family to join the royal suite. Starbuck adamantly and persistently refused. Frenchman John Rives went as interpreter.

Liholiho’s chosen party were Governor Boki and his wife, Liliha, Kapihe, Chief Kekuanaoa, steward Manuia, Naukana (Noukana), Kauluhaimalama, servant Na‘aiweuweu, and James Kanehoa Young. (Corley)

Boki was the son of Kekuamanoha, a chief of Maui (but it was rumored that he was the son of Kahekili II.) His original name was Kamaʻuleʻule; his nickname came from a variation on Boss, the name of the favorite dog of Kamehameha I.

His older brother, Kalanimōkū, was prime minister and formerly Kamehameha’s most influential advisor. His aunt was the powerful Kaʻahumanu, queen regent and Kamehameha’s favorite wife.

King Kamehameha II appointed Boki as governor of Oʻahu and chief of the Waiʻanae district. John Dominis Holt III said Boki was “a man of great charisma who left his mark everywhere he went.”

Boki married Chiefess Kuini Liliha; Liliha was the daughter of Kalaniulumoku II (some say Koakanu was her father) and Loeau, who were themselves full blooded brother and sister (children of Kalaniulumoku I and his own mother the venerable kapu chiefess Kalanikuiokikilo.)

This makes Liliha a niaupio child, a chiefess of the highest possible princely rank in the system of Hawaiian chiefs. She was hānai (adopted) daughter of Ulumāheihei (Hoapili). (Kekoolani)

Ulumāheihei’s father, High Chief Kameʻeiamoku, was one of the “royal twins” who helped Kamehameha I come to power – the twins are on the Islands’ coat of arms – Kameʻeiamoku is on the right (bearing a kahili,) his brother, Kamanawa is on the left, holding a spear.

Kapihe (Naihekukui) “was very intelligent, had an excellent memory, and spoke English tolerably. He was remarkably skillful in the game of draughts (Kōnane,) which he played with uniform success.” (Byron)

He was son of the chief Hanakāhi and also known as Jack the Pilot or Captain Jack. He had been the pilot for the Russian explorer Golovnin in 1818 and piloted Freycinet from Kailua Bay to Kawaihae in August 1819. (Birkett) Lord Byron referred to him as ‘Admiral.’

Kekūanāoʻa’s name (literally, the standing projections) is said to refer to ships’ masts seen in the harbor when Kekūanāoʻa was born. (Pukui) (Some claim Kekūanāoʻa to be the son of Ki‘ilaweau, the grandson of Alapaʻi, King of Hawai‘i, and the Chiefess Kaho‘owaha of Moana. (Kapi‘ikauinamoku))

“As a young man he was a favorite and attendant of the declining years of Kamehameha I. With Liholiho he was a punahele, or intimate attendant and friend, and in that capacity accompanied the Royal party to England”.

Kekūanāoʻa married Pauahi, formerly a wife of Liholiho. They had a daughter, Princess Ruth Keʻelikōlani. In 1827, Kīnaʻu, daughter of Kamehameha, became Kekūanāoʻa’s wife. Kīnaʻu and Kekūanāoʻa had five children: Prince David Kamehameha (who died as a child;) Prince Moses Kekūāiwa (who died in 1848;) Prince Lot Kapuāiwa (Kamehameha V); Prince Alexander Liholiho (Kamehamhea IV) and Princess Victoria Kamāmalu.

Boki’s younger cousin, Manuia, was in command of Fort Kekuanohu, of the fortified hill of Punchbowl and the harbor of Kou, and Boki made him Chief Marshall with power over life and death. He an Boki later set up grog shops at Honolulu.

Naukana (Noukana) was son of Kamanawa (one of the twins on the Islands’ coat of arms – and one of Kamehameha’s four Kona Uncles who helped him rise to control all of the Islands.)

Kauluhaimalama was son of Kekūhaupiʻo. Hawai‘i Island ruling chief Kalaniʻōpuʻu instructed Kekūhaupiʻo to teach Kamehameha the ancient martial arts of the land. Kekūhaupiʻo was determined to give all his knowledge to his chiefly pupil, and he indeed did so. This brought about the firm bond between Kekūhaupiʻo and the young Kamehameha.

Kekūhaupiʻo is arguably the one man most closely connected to Kamehameha I during Kamehameha’s formative years, while he developed his skills as a warrior, and through the early period of Kamehameha’s conquests.

“Kanehoa Young, the second son of John Young, was about the same age as Liholiho, had traveled widely throughout the world, and spoke English.” (Corley)

John Young, a boatswain on the British fur trading vessel, Eleanora, was stranded on the Island of Hawai‘i in 1790. Kamehameha brought Young to Kawaihae, where he was building the massive temple, Pu’ukoholā Heiau.

For the next several years, John Young, and another British sailor, Isaac Davis, went on to assist Kamehameha in his unification of the Hawaiian Islands.

Because of his knowledge of European warfare, Young is said to have trained Kamehameha and his men in the use of muskets and cannons. In addition, both Young and Davis fought alongside Kamehameha in his many battles.

With these powerful new weapons and associated war strategy, Kamehameha eventually brought all of the Hawaiian Islands under his rule.

In London, Liholiho and Kamāmalu became ill. It is believed they probably contracted the measles on their visit to the Royal Military Asylum (now the Duke of York’s Royal Military School.) Virtually the entire royal party developed measles within weeks of arrival, 7 to 10 days after visiting the Royal Military Asylum housing hundreds of soldiers’ children.

Kamāmalu (aged 22) died on July 8, 1824. The grief-stricken Kamehameha II (age 27) died six days later, on July 14, 1824. Prior to his death he asked to return and be buried in Hawai‘i.

Kapihe was the only one of the followers who had suffered from the disorder in a degree at all equal to the king and queen. Boki and Kekūanāoʻa rapidly recovered; and Kapihe soon grew better.

Shortly thereafter, the British Government dispatched HMS Blonde to convey the bodies of Liholiho and Kamāmalu back to Hawaii, along with the entourage. The Captain of the Blonde, a newly commissioned 46-gun frigate, was Lord Byron (a cousin of the poet.) The Blonde arrived back in Honolulu on May 6, 1825.

© 2026 Hoʻokuleana LLC

Their_Majesties_King_Rheo_Rhio,_Queen_Tamehamalu,_Madame_Poke