Ainahau | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

February 5, 2023 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Royal Residences

I have previously posted a number of images of some of the former Royal Residences in Hawai‘i. This is not a complete listing, nor full set of images of these palaces, retreats and residences of Hawaiian royalty.

‘Iolani Palace

The Iolani Palace was built in 1882 by King David Kalakaua. His successor, Queen Liliuokalani, lived there until she was deposed in 1893.

The building was used as the capitol of the state of Hawaii until 1969, when it was restored and turned into a museum and state historic monument.

Hulihe’e Palace

The Hulihee Palace was built by Governor John Adams Kuakini in 1838, and until 1916 is was a vacation home for Hawaiian royalty. It is located on Ali‘i Drive in Kailua-Kona on the Big island of Hawaii.

Queen Emma’s Summer Palace

This home summer home of Queen Emma was called “Hanaiakamalama”. You can still see it today, just off the Honolulu end of the Pali Highway.

Washington Place

This home in the historic capital district of Honolulu was built by John Dominis and when his son (another John Dominis) married the future Queen Liliʻuokalani it was their home.

For many years it was used as the Governor’s mansion of Hawaii but today it is a museum that can be toured by the public.

Ainahau Estate in Waikiki

Ainahau was the name of the country home built on Waikiki land that was given to Princess Kaiulani when she was born.

Ainahau was built by Archibald Cleghorn for Princess Likelike and his daughter Princess Kaiulani. At first it was a country home but eventually it became their full-time home.

Ainahau was eventually sold to land investors and it was torn down in 1955 to make room for the Princess Kaiulani Hotel.

Keoua Hale

Keoua Hale was the palace of Princess Ruth Ke’elikōlani at 1302 Queen Emma Street in downtown Honolulu, Hawai’i. It was larger than Iolani Palace.

Moku‘ula

The Royal complex at Moku`ula was Lahaina’s “Sacred Island” situated in the middle of the 14 acre Mokuhinia Pond.

Located across the street from the ocean and 505 Front Street Shopping Center (near the intersection with Shaw Street), Moku`ula was both the sacred place for the seat of government and a sanctuary for the Hawaiian Royal families.

Kaniakapupu

Kaniakapupu (“the singing of the land shells”) is the now dilapidated summer palace of King Kamehameha III and his queen Kalama in upper Nu‘uanu, O‘ahu.

May 19, 2022 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Hawaiian Woods – Hawaiian Royal Residences

Most houses at the time of Cook’s contact consisted of a framework of posts, poles and slender rods – often set on a paving or low platform foundation – lashed together with a coarse twine made of beaten and twisted bark, vines, or grassy fibers. This was then covered with ti, pandanus or sugarcane leaves, or a thatch of pili grass or other appropriate material.

When covered with small bundles of grass laid side by side in overlapping tiers, these structures were described as resembling haystacks. One door and frequently an additional small “air hole” provided ventilation and light, while air also passed through the thatching. Grass or palm leaves covered the raised earth floors of these houses.

When a chief needed a house, his retainers assembled the materials and erected the structure under the direction of an individual (kahuna) expert in the art of erecting a framework and applying thatch.

Many of these more modern royal residences were named – some were named after the material they were made from. Here are three such royal residences.

Hale Kauila (Downtown Honolulu – Queen Kīna‘u)

Hale Kauila (house built of kauila wood) once stood on the street in downtown Honolulu that still bears the name of this large council chamber or reception room (some refer to it as Kina‘u’s house.)

While the thatch is attached in the usual way, the posts are much higher than usual and have squared timber; but the most foreign touch, apart from the windows, are the cross braces at the top and between the posts and the plate (they were never used in genuine native work.)

The description by Captain du Petit-Thouars of this house (which he calls the house of the Queen Kīna‘u:) “This house, built in wood and covered with dry grasses, is placed in the middle of a fortification closed with a fence.”

“The platform on which it rests is high above the ground in the yard about 30 centimeters and it is surrounded, externally, a covered gallery which makes it more pleasant.”

“Its shape inside, is that of a rectangle lengthens; in one end, there is a flat shape by a wooden partition which does not rise to the roof.”

“This piece serves as a bedroom, in the remaining of the area, box, and at the other end, there is a portion of the high ground from 28 to 30 centimeters, which is covered with several mats: it is this kind of big couch that was placed the ladies and they are held lying on one side or stomach, or they stand to receive and to make room.”

Hale Lama (Waikīkī – King Kamehameha V)

King Kamehameha V’s Waikīkī home was built in 1866. It was called Hale Lama. As described by George Kanahele, the residence “was quite modest with only one bedroom, but was notable for its neo-Hawaiian architecture – a low, rectangular-shaped structure, with a high-pitched, hipped roof that was thatched and descended to the poles of the lanai that sounded three of the four exterior walls.”

“The design suited Waikiki’s climate perfectly. The high pitched roof allowed for the upward expansion of warm air, thus cooling the inside of the house, and the wide overhanging eaves kept out both sun and rain, while inviting the serenity and beauty of the natural setting.”

“It has been mentioned that the lama wood was especially used for building houses of the gods, that is, the thatched houses within the enclosures of the heiau or luakini, and its use in building the house for King lot, Kamehameha V, gave an excuse for its reported use by an old kahuna in the King’s establishment, for a house of prayer, and I am assured by an old resident that prayers to the gods were frequently offered therein”.

After the Kamehameha V’s death in 1872, the house and property went to went to Princess Ruth who bequeathed the property to Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop. The Princess and her husband Charles Bishop renovated and enlarged the house with servant quarters.

Hale Kamani (Lāhainā – Princess Nahiʻenaʻena)

When Keōpūolani returned to Maui to live her final years, she had a house on the beach in Lāhainā; her daughter, Nahiʻenaʻena, lived in her own home next door – Nahiʻenaʻena called her house Hale Kamani.

It had an early and convenient addition to the common grass house in a land where the people lived so generally in the open air, was the lanai, with extensions of the rafters at the same or a slightly reduced slope.

This verandah was, generally speaking, the most comfortable part of the house. This lanai was often detached as in the Hale Kamani and was sometimes large with walls of coconut leaves intertwined, and a nearly flat roof of similar substance which was intended to furnish shade rather than shelter from heavy rain.

At least one other Royal Residence was named after a native wood ‘Āinahau (Princess Kapi‘olani’s home in Waikīkī;) however, it was named such because it was situated in a hau grove, not that its wood was used in the structure.

March 6, 2022 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Princess Kaʻiulani … Engaged?

On October 16, 1875, a child was born to Princess Likelike (the youngest sister of King Kalākaua) and Archibald Cleghorn. The child, the only direct descendant of the Kalākaua dynasty, was named Victoria Kawekiu Kaʻiulani Lunalilo Kalaninui Ahilapalapa.

On March 9, 1891, Princess Kaʻiulani was duly appointed and proclaimed heir apparent to the Hawaiian throne.

Kaʻiulani inherited 10-acres of land in Waikīkī from her godmother, Princess Ruth Keʻelikōlani. Originally called Auaukai, Kaʻiulani’s mother named it ʻĀinahau.

The family built a two-story home on the estate. At first, the home was used only as a country estate, but Princess Kaʻiulani’s family loved it so much, it soon became their full time residence. As many as fifty peacocks, favorites of the young Princess, were allowed to roam freely on the grounds.

At the age of 13, Princess Kaʻiulani sailed to Europe to begin her education abroad; she spent the next 8 years studying and traveling in Europe.

Reports and rumors of Kaʻiulani’s engagement to various men have been reported over the years. It depends on whether you believe what you read in the newspapers or books – and which one you believe – to determine if the answer to the question posed in the title is true.

Clive Davies

Newspaper reports in 1893 noted Clive Davies and Kaʻiulani were engaged. Clive Davies is the son of Theophilus Davies. Not only was the senior Davies’ firm, Theo H Davies, one of the Hawaiʻi Big Five, he personally served as guardian to Princess Kaʻiulani while she was studying in England (Davies had a home in Nuʻuanu called “Craigside;” he had another home in England, “Sundown.”)

George Davies

Later, in 1897, newspaper accounts note George Davies, another son of Theo H Davies (Kaʻiulani guardian while she studied in England,) was engaged to the Princess.

David Kawānanakoa

A New York Times announcement in early 1898, stated, Prince David Laʻamea Kahalepouli Kinoiki Kawānanakoa (Koa) Piʻikoi, a descendant of the sister of Kalākaua’s wife, Queen Kapiʻolani, was engaged to marry Kaʻiulani – his cousin.

David was the first child of his father High Chief David Kahalepouli Piʻikoi, from Kauaʻi Island, and his mother Victoria Kūhiō Kinoiki Kekaulike. His younger brothers were Edward Keliʻiahonui (Prince Edward) (1869–1887) and Jonah Kūhiō Kalanianaʻole (Prince Kūhiō) (1871–1922.)

Adding credibility to this announcement, reportedly, Queen Kapiʻolani gave Princess Kaʻiulani’s an engagement necklace in anticipation of the marriage between Kaʻiulani and Koa. It was originally a gift to Queen Kapiʻolani from King Kalākaua for their wedding anniversary.

Putnam Bradlee Strong

In late-summer 1898, newspaper reports stated Kaʻiulani was engaged to Captain Putman Strong, son of New York ex-Mayor Strong.

Andrew Adams

Later in 1898, reports suggested Kaʻiulani was engaged to Andrew Adams, son of a railroad engineer. He was previously a member of the staff of the Providence (Rhode Island) Journal and had moved to Hawaiʻi and worked at the Hawaiian Star in Honolulu.

James G Blain Jr.

An 1899 report has a cryptic reference that James Blain Jr was “at one time engaged to be married to Kaʻiulani”. Somewhat surprising, since his father, James Blain, worked to bind the kingdom more closely to the US, suggesting Hawaiʻi should become an American protectorate. Some suggest Blain was involved with the ultimate annexation of Hawaiʻi by the US.

International

German: Reportedly, in a letter to Queen Liliʻuokalani, Kaʻiulani wrote: “I could have married an enormously rich German Count, but I could not care for him. I feel it would be wrong if I married a man I did not love, I should be perfectly unhappy, and we should not agree, and instead of being an example to the married women of today, I should become like one of them, merely a woman of fashion and most likely a flirt. I hope I am not expressing myself too strongly but I feel I must speak out to you and there must be perfect confidence between you and me, dear Aunt.” (KaiulaniProject, June 22, 1894)

Japanese: King Kalākaua proposed a royal marriage to the throne of Japan. The proposal was a matrimonial relationship between Princess Kaʻiulani and a young Japanese Prince, Komatsu, during a private meeting. At that time, the offer was neither accepted nor rejected. Prince Komatsu himself had written King Kalākaua, formally thanking him but at the same time, stating that a marriage had already been arranged for him when he was very young. (ufl-edu)

Scottish: Of course, there is one more lingering message from the rumor mill – folks still suggest there was something going on between Kaʻiulani and Robert Louis Stevenson.

Stevenson made several trips to the Kingdom of Hawaiʻi and became a good friend of King David Kalākaua, with whom Stevenson spent much time. Stevenson also became good friends with Kaʻiulani, also of Scottish heritage.

Historians have debated the true nature of their relationship as to whether or not they had romantic feelings for each other. Because of the age difference, such stories have often been discredited. (Treasure Island – eBook)

Kaʻiulani never married.

While attending a wedding at Parker Ranch at Waimea on the Big Island, Kaʻiulani got caught in a cold Waimea rain while riding on horseback, she became ill; she and her family returned to O‘ahu.

Tragically, after a two-month illness, Kaʻiulani died at ʻĀinahau on March 6, 1899, at age 23. It is said that the night she died, her peacocks screamed so loud that people could hear them miles away and knew that she had died.

February 25, 2020 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

“I Love The Flower That Constantly Attracts”

It’s the national flower of the Philippines (they call it ‘sampaguita,’ there) – it’s also one of the three national flowers in Indonesia, (the other two are the moon orchid and the giant padma.)

In Cambodia, the flower is used as an offering to Buddha. In India, it’s sacred to the god Vishnu and used in religious ceremonies. In China, the flower is processed and used as the main ingredient in jasmine tea.

In Oman, it features prominently on a child’s first birthday. Flowers are sprinkled on the child’s head by other children while chanting “hol hol” (the Arabic word for one year.)

It’s known as Jasminum sambac, a species of jasmine from the olive family (native to South and Southeast Asia.) It is known as the Arabian jasmine in English. (Other countries have other names for it.) The flowers are also used for perfumes.

“Plants that wake when others sleep. Timid jasmine buds that keep their fragrance to themselves all day, but when the sunlight dies away, let the delicious secret out, to every breeze that roams about.” (Thomas More, 16th Century)

The plant was introduced to Europe in the early 16th Century, although its existence had been known about for some time by then. It probably came into Hawaiʻi in the 1800s.

In Hawaiʻi, the flowers are woven into lei (it takes about 125 buds to make a single strand.)

It was the favorite flower of Princess Kaʻiulani. Kaʻiulani liked birds, too … especially peacocks.

The name of her birds (peacock – pīkake) carried over to become the name we use in Hawaiʻi for these flowers – the Pīkake.

Mapu ia ke ala o ka pīkake
I ka o aheahe a ka makani
Aloha aʻe au i ka pua ʻume mau

The fragrance of the pīkake is wafted
By a gentle blowing of the wind
I love the flower that constantly attracts
(Flanagan and Raymond)

Click here for a fabulous rendition of Lei Pīkake by Hapa:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AI92r0rkxuw

While attending a wedding at Waimea on the Big Island, Kaʻiulani got caught in a cold Waimea rain while riding on horseback with her friends, Helen and Eva Parker (daughters of Samuel Parker.) She became ill; she and her family returned to O‘ahu.

After a two-month illness, Kaʻiulani died at ʻĀinahau on March 6, 1899, at age 23. It is said that the night she died, her peacocks screamed so loud that people could hear them miles away and knew that she had died.

Princess Kaʻiulani’s mother was Princess Miriam Kapili Kekauluohi Likelike (sister of King Kalākaua and Queen Liliʻuokalani) and her father was Scottish businessman and horticulturist Archibald Scott Cleghorn, who later became Governor of Oʻahu.

In his writings, Robert Louis Stevenson endearingly recalled that Princess Victoria Kaʻiulani was “…more beautiful than the fairest flower.

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Kaiulani_feeding_peacocks_at_Ainahau_1897

Pikake-jasminum_sambac__(arabian_jasmine)

MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA

April 9, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

ʻĀinahau

Princess Victoria Kawekiu I Lunalilo Kalaninuiahilapalapa Kaʻiulani Cleghorn (commonly referred to as Princess Kaʻiulani) was born in Honolulu on October 16, 1875.

Princess Kaʻiulani was the only child born to the Kalākaua dynasty; as such, she was the only direct heir to the throne of the Kingdom of Hawaiʻi.

Kaʻiulani inherited 10-acres of land in Waikīkī from her godmother, Princess Ruth Keʻelikōlani. Originally called Auaukai, Likelike named it ʻĀinahau; Princess Kaʻiulani spent most of her life there.

The stream that flowed through ʻĀinahau and emptied into the ocean between the Moana and Royal Hawaiian Hotels (where the present Outrigger Hotel is located,) was called ʻApuakehau (the middle of three rivers that used to run through Waikīkī.)

The family built a two-story home on the estate. At first the home was used only as a country estate, but Princess Kaʻiulani’s family loved it so much, it soon became their full-time residence.

The home was furnished with two grand pianos, elaborate brocade chairs, gold and glass cabinets and fixtures. Also, there were various art collections displayed on the walls and rooms.

The Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson was a frequent guest and used to read passages of poetry to the young Princess under the banyan tree. He even composed a poem for her where he described her as his “island rose, light of heart and bright of face.”

Archibald Cleghorn had an avid interest in horticulture. He imported plants and flowers from all over the world and planted them at ʻĀinahau.

Plants on the estate included mango trees, teak, cinnamon, camphor trees, date palms and sago palms. Its ten acres were filled with gardens, three lily ponds, 500 coconut trees, 14 varieties of hibiscus and 8 kinds of mango trees.

Reportedly, the first banyan tree in Hawaii was planted on the grounds of ʻĀinahau. As many as fifty peacocks, favorites of the young Princess, were allowed to roam freely on the grounds.

“The ʻĀinahau, with its waving, coconut trees, stately palms and winding roads and paths, has always been known as one of the most beautiful and romantic spots in Honolulu.” (Honolulu Star-Bulleting, September 23, 1913)

While attending a wedding at Parker Ranch at Waimea on the Big Island, Kaʻiulani got caught in a cold Waimea rain while riding on horseback, she became ill; she and her family returned to O‘ahu.

“Cleghorn, who survived both Princess Miriam Likelike and their daughter, died only a few years ago (Cleghorn lived until 1910 and also passed away there).” (Gessler, The Step Ladder, October 1921)

“Mr. Cleghorn … felt that he held ʻĀinahau in a sort of trust, to preserve it for the memory of Kaʻiulani, and indirectly also of Likelike.” (Honolulu Star Bulletin, April 16, 1913)

“A bill to accept the fine gift passed the senate in 1913 but was killed in the house, and it was admitted at the time that some of the heirs under the will had joined in fighting against the acceptance bill.” (Honolulu Star-Bulleting, September 23, 1913)

“The deal by which the property was leased was completed yesterday. The name of the lessee is withheld at this time, but it was learned that local persons are interested in the project.”

“On the first of July the buildings already on the estate will be opened as a hotel. The buildings include one large structure, five cottages and one grass house. … The lease is made for a short period of time, with the privilege of extension. It includes the entire area of beautiful ʻĀinahau.” (Honolulu Star-Bulletin, June 21, 1913)

Mrs EH Lewis rented the property from the Cleghorn estate and operated the property as ʻĀinahau Hotel from 1913 to 1917.

There was an unfortunate later fire of the home, while occupied by William F Aldrich. He ran to the room where the gas heater stood and saw flames. Neighbors tried to help by beating them out with cloths.

A fire truck was summoned from Kaimukī, but the pin holding together the steering gear fell out and the truck crashed into a fence. By the time help arrived, the building could not be saved. (Cultural Surveys)

“With great difficulty the flames were prevented from spreading to adjacent buildings. Sparks were carried to the roof of the Moana Hotel by the high wind.” (Maui News, August 5, 1921)

“Historic ʻĀinahau, at Waikiki, was totally destroyed by fire August 2d (1921,) together with most of its furniture and fittings, on which $15,000 insurance was carried.” (Thrum)

“ʻĀinahau, home of the wide lanais and lofty palms, rendezvous of Honolulu society in the reign of King Kalākaua, and haunt of Robert Louis Stevenson in his Hawaiian days, is gone. “

“The age old coconut trees which surrounded the famous palace were torches of remembrance, flaming high into the tropic night long after ʻĀinahau had become only a ghost among its glowing embers, but today they are charred stumps around blackened ruins.” (Gessler, The Step Ladder, October 1921)

In the late-1920s, the dredging of the Ala Wai Canal dried up the streams and ponds on the ʻĀinahau estate. Today the Princess Kaʻiulani Hotel sits at the former driveway entrance to the ʻĀinahau Estate, across the street from Waikiki’s historic Moana Hotel, which opened in 1901.

In 1999, a statue of Princess Kaʻiulani was erected in a small triangle park (at the corner of Kūhiō Avenue and Kaʻiulani Avenue,) which also includes a bus stop, halau mound for performances, landscaping and walkway.

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