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January 18, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Honolulu in 1846

“The so-called city of Honolulu of to-day is in every particular a very different place from the village of that name, when I arrived here on the 8th of March, 1846, after a voyage of 116 days around Cape Horn from Boston, in the clipper-schooner Kamehameha III., Captain Fisher A. Newell.”

“There were over one hundred whale ships in the harbor, closely packed, three and four side by side, coopering oil, discharging into homeward bound whalers or merchant vessels, and preparing for the summer’s cruise in the northern seas.”

“The whaling business was much more generally successful in those days than it ever has been since. Seventeen hundred barrels was an ordinary season’s catch, while frequently twenty-five hundred and as high as three thousand barrels was reported.”

“The port, as may be supposed, presented a busy scene. Each of these 100 and more ships had on an average thirty persons attached to it as seamen and officers, amounting in the aggregate to some 3,000 persons …”

“… about one half of whom were always on shore “on liberty,” and they gave the town quite a lively appearance. The grog-shops were particularly lively, and the police-court presented an animated spectacle every morning.”

“The streets of the town – or village, as the foreign residents appropriately termed it – were dusty or muddy thoroughfares, according to the weather, with no pretense to sidewalks. Indeed, there were no necessity for the latter, for there were no horse teams and hardly a carriage to be seen.”

“When ladies – and sometimes gentlemen – went out to an evening party or to church on Sunday, they were conveyed in a sort of handcart with four wheels, drawn by one kanaka and pushed from behind by another.”

“To a new-comer, the sight was grotesque and a forcible reminder of the partially civilized state of the country, to see a well-dressed white lady thus pulled and propelled along the street by two bareheaded and barefooted natives, whose only clothing consisted of a malo and a very short denim frock.”

“Goods were transported from the wharves to stores on heavy trucks, drawn by a dozen natives, sweating and tugging through the yielding soil and sand of the streets. Horses were plentiful and cheap, and most foreign residents kept one or more for riding.”

“Then most of the houses were of thatch, even down to the business part of the village, with here and there a stone, or more frequently an adobe structure, but generally with a thatched roof, for shingles brought around Cape Horn were costly, and Oregon lumber was as yet unknown.”

“It cannot be denied that the thatched house, when sufficiently high between joints, was a much more comfortable lodging in this climate than our modern clapboard and shingled houses.”

“The largest foreign-built structure at this date, – with the exception of the King’s palace – was the Bethel church, where the Rev. Dr. Damon officiated, having succeeded the Rev. Mr. Deill in 1843.”

“With the large number of seamen visiting the port at that time we may be assured that “Father Damon” – as he was generally but quite respectfully entitled – had no idle time on his hands, but was often to be seen visiting from ship to ship. The Sailor’s Home was not built until some years after this.”

“What is now Nu‘uanu Avenue, was then little else than a bridle-path through the taro patches up the valley and leading to the Pali.”

“There were no pretty cottages such as now line both sides of that fine thoroughfare, but only here and there a hut of thatch, squatting on the edge of a patch of taro or sweet potatoes.”

“Ornamental trees had not been introduced, and the only ones to be seen in the village and suburbs were an occasional kukui or the unsightly hau.”

“There were no water-works, the supplies for domestic use and for shipping being obtained from wells, of which there was one in almost every house-lot.”

“In some of these wells – particularly those near the harbor – the water rose and fell with the ocean tides. It was more or less brackish, and what housewives denominate as peculiarly ‘hard.’”

“Gentlemen’s linen was not so immaculately white in those days as now. There was no Fire Department, and fortunately no fires of any consequence, until when a Department was organized some years after.”

“Among the prominent natives of that time, I remember, beside the noble King Kamehameha III, and his Queen Kalama, A. Paki and Konia his wife, Keliiahonui, John Young, M. Kekuanaoa, Kanaina, Leleiohoku, Kapeau, Kaiminaauao, Kaliokalani, J. Piikoi, B. Namakaeha, Hooliliamanu, L. Haalelea, Kekauonohi, and many others, all now dead.”

“The Commerce of Honolulu, as gathered from official sources, was in those days rather insignificant when compared with the record of to-day.”

“The gross value of imports at the Custom House, for the year ending Dec. 31, 1846, was $598,382.24; the exports of domestic produce for the same period, (more than half of which represented supplies to whalers) amounted to $763,950.74. The custom receipts for that year were $36,506.64.”

“Sugar figures in the exports to the amount of 300,000 lbs., and molasses, 16,000 gallons. Among the imports the whalers brought goods free of duty to the value of $11,142.68, and the American Mission to the value of $5,896.15, also duty free.”

“Lahaina, which was a favorite port of call and roadstead anchorage for whalers, returned in 1846 for harbor dues, duties, etc., the sum of $4,874.62.”

“The American Missionaries, then and for many years subsequently under the direction and supported by the ABCFM. of Boston, held their general meeting in Honolulu in June, 1846.”

“As I had read a great deal in boyhood about the Sandwich Islands Mission, I naturally was curious to see these men who had devoted their lives to the work of Christianizing the heathen people.”

“And so I was gratified by a sight and in some instances with a personal acquaintance with those I herewith name, some of whom have gone to rest, while some yet remain”. (Sheldon, 1881)

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Downtown and Vicinity-Street_Names-Map-1843
Downtown and Vicinity-Street_Names-Map-1843

Filed Under: General, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Honolulu, Oahu, Timeline, 1846

January 6, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Rail’s Impact

“The science of transportation, as demonstrated by the railroad and steamboat promoters of this age, has been clearly shown to be the principle upon which the astounding commercial progress of the United States is founded.”

“The vast trans-continental systems, with their ramifications, have carried millions of people from Europe and the Atlantic states into the unbroken west, tapped the treasures of mine, forest and farm, developed a hundred industries where none was known twenty-five years ago, built cities and added to the nation’s wealth a hundred fold.”

“Within the past year Hawaii has started in the footsteps of America by projecting a railroad around the island of Oahu, and actually perfecting, within the period from April 1st, 1889, to January 1st, 1890 …”

“… a well equipped railroad in running order, extending from Honolulu along the southern shore of the island to a temporary terminus at Ewa Court House, a distance of twelve miles.”

“It was five years ago that Mr BF Dillingham advanced the idea of building a steam railroad that should carry freight and passengers, and conduct business on the most improved American methods.”

“A hundred men told him his scheme was infeasible where one offered encouragement. He believed he was right, and so put forth every endeavor to secure a franchise, which was granted to him only after vigorous legislative opposition to the measure.”

“Chief among the ends secured by facilitating the shipment of produce from the interior to the seaboard is the conjunction of ship and car, a principle that Mr. Dillingham had in view when he launched his railroad venture. This project, involving the construction of a wharf from the present railroad terminus at Iwelei to deep water in Honolulu harbor, is being carried out.”

“Only three or four cities in the United States claim this superior arrangement for rapid and economic transfer of freight, and it certainly becomes a progressive movement on the part of Honolulu when our railroad cars bring sugar, bananas and rice from plantations on the northwest side of the island directly to ship’s tackles.”

“Its usefulness will be appreciated when, in 1892, the first crop of Ewa Plantation will, with only a nominal cost of handling, be placed in the hold of out-bound packets.”

“Banana and rice planters along the line of the railroad will not be slow to avail themselves of the shipping advantages provided by the meeting of ship and car. Bananas can be cut from the plant on the morning a vessel sails, and will arrive in the California market in a much better condition than those heretofore transported by horse and mule back from the interior.”

“Hawaiian rice, which commands a higher price in American markets than the South Carolina product, can be placed in San Francisco at a lower figure than formerly.”

“While the banana and rice traffic will be stimulated to a greater extent here than in any other country on the globe, the advantage given to sugar, the staple commodity of the Kingdom, will be heightened to an extraordinary degree.”

“In no other country have we the spectacle of sugar being taken from the mill directly to ship’s tackles. In Manila, Jamaica and Cuba, and even in Louisiana and Mississippi, the process of transportation is slow, laborious and expensive, reducing the profits of the planter to a minimum.”

“Market gardening, dairying and the raising of poultry can be made lucrative to the industrious, while fruit culture, embracing a large variety of products, offers other liberal inducements.”

“Along the line of the railroad there are now 7,500 acres in rice, yielding 10,000 tons annually, and 150 acres in bananas, yielding 100,000 bunches annually, and besides these prolific plantations there are, in close proximity to the several stations, thousands of mellow acres untouched, capable of bearing all the multifarious fruits and flowers of the tropics.”

“Repeated successes in the past give some assurance that the railroad will succeed in this laudable project. … The Oahu Railway & Land Company are nothing if not progressive.”

“It is difficult at this stage of the corporation’s history to convey an idea of what will be accomplished at the close of the year 1890.”

“The projection of branch roads, the importation of locomotives and cars, the improvements around Pearl Harbor and the track laying beyond Ewa are circumstances of the present that indicate preparations for an enormous business.”

“The branches or spurs now under way are, one extending into the Palama suburb, having its terminus at a stone quarry, and the other is a line running along the peninsula at Pearl City.”

“The enterprise shown by the Oahu Railway and Land Company from the very commencement of its great undertaking, and in every branch of its service, is worthy of special note and commendation.”

“Every month witnesses the opening of some new plan, or the completion of some noteworthy object, in which all will be more or less interested.”

“Of what may be termed the Pearl Harbor Section of the Oahu Railway there will be sixteen miles of track from the city to the mill of the Ewa Plantation, located near the shores of the west loch of the lagoon.”

“Of this, twelve miles are completed and in excellent order to Pearl City Depot, improving, however, with each month’s service and use by daily freight and passenger trains, and with the additional ballasting which the road receives from time to time, wherever and whenever wanted.”

“At each station convenient buildings have been erected, with two good depots at Honolulu and Pearl City. A commodious turn-table building has been erected near the Honolulu Depot, where the engines may be housed when not in use, and another smaller one at Pearl City.”

The freight business of the read is increasing with each new enterprise, that is being developed at or near the present western terminus.”

“And it is also a noticeable fact that business along the line of road between Honolulu and Ewa has already received a stimulus that is helping to increase the passenger and freight traffic and to develop the resources of those fertile plains.” (Whitney; Tourist Guide, 1890)

And their attitude/outcome in 1890? … “From what we have learned from all sources we have greater faith than ever in the success of … the Oahu Railway and Land Company”. (Whitney; Tourist Guide, 1890)

Rail about 130 years ago; what about today (you can include SuperFerry in those thoughts, as well)? Back then, private enterprise “came forward at the right time and purchased enough stock and bonds to set the enterprise on foot.” And today …

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OR&L Railroad Station 1890
OR&L Railroad Station 1890
OR&L Station
OR&L Station
OR&L Alakea Street Honolulu
OR&L Alakea Street Honolulu
pulls into the Honolulu Depot to pick up and dispatch passengers. Photo taken in 1890.
pulls into the Honolulu Depot to pick up and dispatch passengers. Photo taken in 1890.
OR&L Honolulu Depot-1901
OR&L Honolulu Depot-1901
OR&L Honolulu Depot-1914
OR&L Honolulu Depot-1914
OR&L_Waianae
OR&L_Waianae
Railroad along Pearl Harbor-1890
Railroad along Pearl Harbor-1890
Train turning into Fort Kamehameha, Oahu, 1923
Train turning into Fort Kamehameha, Oahu, 1923
Waianae Train Station
Waianae Train Station
OR&L Steam Locomotive-Leahi
OR&L Steam Locomotive-Leahi

Filed Under: Economy, General, Place Names, Prominent People Tagged With: Oahu Railway and Land Company, OR&L, Hawaii, Oahu

January 3, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

‘In Celestial Slums’

“A Health Inspection In Chinatown … Cholera’s Breeding Grounds and Fever’s Spawning-Beds Vile Sights and Smells Abound” as reported in the Hawaiian Star in 1893 …

“This morning a Star reporter accompanied Health Officer McVeigh on his daily trip through Chinatown. The Board of Health has been insisting on the observance of sanitary regulations as laid down in the Code, and of late, has been making raids on Chinese who were not obeying them.”

“‘Now the first place I will take you to is the public washhouse,’ said the officer. ‘Here is the worst cholera breeder there is in this city. Look through the cracks in this floor.’ The reporter looked through and saw a mass of green mud which the tide could not wash away.”

“‘We are expecting to get a new washhouse soon,’ said the officer, ‘but as it is now we are doing the best we can. The Board is looking for ways and means to erect a structure near the new market at the foot of Alakea street. But the way affairs are now only about half the laundrymen use this place as we have no room for any more.’”

“The stench that arises from under and around this washhouse is something terrible and the waters of the Nu‘uanu stream seem to have no effect upon the mass of slops that falls through the floor cracks into it.”

“The next place visited was Leleo Lane, just off King street, near the washhouse. Although the Health officer visits these pest holes every day, it is almost impossible to get the Chinese, (Japanese) and natives who live in them to recognize in the least any necessity for cleanliness.”

“Over sixty eight new cesspools have been built in the last few months and hundreds of ventilator pipes erected where there were none before, but it doesn’t half fill the bill.”

“Decayed poi, the sewage from outhouses and the slops thrown out by inmates have made the places underneath some of these tenements simply unbearable. These places are chiefly owned by Akana, a Chinaman.”

“The next place visited was the notorious ‘Bay View’ resort. This property, until lately overhauled by the health officers, was in a disgusting state. It is under lease to a Chinese procurer named Sam Kow.”

“Kekaulike street is another offshoot from King street and is environed by some of the broken down Chinese tenements, the yards of which smell to heaven.”

“The microbes and bacteria could be caught floating around in the air, while the effluvia was loathsome. These tenements are owned by Low Chung, of the Wing Wo Tai Co.”

“Coming through on Maunakea street the eye, as well as the nose, is assailed by the most loathsome sights and smells. The wash houses and vegetable shops are rivals as to which can emit the foulest odors. This property is owned by JF Colburn.”

“When the officer went into a tenement the other day in this locality, he ran across a trap and opened it and found a cesspool. Lighting a match he threw it into the pool when an explosion took place and blue flames mounted to the roof.”

“There are some exceptions to the rule of poor buildings in this place for ES Cunha is putting up on Maunakea street a one story brick block, with plenty of drains and cesspools, and he thinks it will pay better than the old ramshackle buildings that are around him.”

“Kikihale district was next taken in by the officer. This is the resort of the worst of Honolulu’s submerged classes.”

“Depraved native women without pretention of moral or physical cleanliness are lying about in one-story whitewashed tenements, disputing possession with the mangy curs that flock around them.”

“The outhouses are in the customary Cape Horn condition and the officer warns the occupants to use ‘more lime,’ which he forces them to have continually on hand. Ching Wa of the Sing Chong Co. is the principal owner of tenements in this district.”

“On the corner of Smith and Pauahi streets there are a lot of dives that have got to be watched continually by the officer. They are owned by Ho Sam, a wealthy rice planter at ‘Ewa, and A Aio, a Chinese merchant.”

“The officer was now approaching the sacred precincts of Kaumakapili Church, and quite within its shadow, descending a few steps near Nu‘uanu stream, off Beretania street, he presented to the reporter an opium den in full blast.”

“Officer McVeigh had evidently intended this as his last scene. Here were fully thirty Chinamen and natives sucking away at the demon pipe right in the shadow of Kaumakapili!”

“Near this place, seated on the ground, was an emaciated Chinaman in the last stages of berri berri, swollen beyond recognition.”

“This ended the journey for this day.” (Hawaiian Star, May 27, 1893)

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Honolulu-Chinatown-1893
Honolulu-Chinatown-1893

Filed Under: Place Names, Economy, General Tagged With: Hawaii, Honolulu, Oahu, Chinatown

November 12, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

The Old House in the Fort

On O‘ahu, in 1815, Kamehameha I granted Russian representatives permission to build a storehouse near Honolulu Harbor. But, instead, directed by the German adventurer Georg Schaffer (1779-1836,) they began building a fort and raised the Russian flag.

They built their blockhouse near the harbor, against the ancient heiau of Pākākā and close to the King’s complex. There are reports that the Russians used stones from Pākākā in building their facility.

As a side note, Pākākā was the site of Kaua‘i’s King Kaumuali‘i’s negotiations relinquishing power to Kamehameha I, instead of going to war, and pledged allegiance to Kamehameha, a few years earlier in 1810.

When Kamehameha discovered the Russians were building a fort (rather than storehouses) and had raised the Russian flag, he sent several chiefs, along with John Young (his advisor,) to remove the Russians from Oʻahu by force, if necessary.

The Russian personnel judiciously chose to sail for Kauai instead of risking bloodshed. On Kauai, there they were given land by Kauai’s King Kaumuali‘i; the Russian Fort Elizabeth was built soon after on Kauai.

The partially built blockhouse at Honolulu was finished by Hawaiians under the direction of John Young and mounted guns protected the fort. Its original purpose was to protect Honolulu by keeping enemy or otherwise undesirable ships out. But, it was also used to keep things in (it also served as a prison.)

By 1830, the fort had 40 guns mounted on the parapets all of various calibers (6, 8, 12 and probably a few 32 pounders.) Fort Kekuanohu literally means ‘the back of the scorpion fish,’ as in ‘thorny back,’ because of the rising guns on the walls. In 1838 there were 52 guns reported.

The fort protected Honolulu Harbor and also housed a number of administrative functions, including many years of service as Honolulu’s police headquarters. The first courts of the islands were held here until a new courthouse was built in 1853, adjacent to the fort.

Then the fort was taken down and the prison moved. A prison was built in 1856-57 at Iwilei; it took the place of the old Fort Kekuanohu. The new custom-house was completed in 1860. The water-works were much enlarged, and a system of pipes laid down in 1861.

Between 1857 and 1870, the coral block walls of the dismantled Fort edged and filled about 22-acres of reef and tideland, forming the ‘Esplanade’ or ‘Ainahou,’ between Fort and Merchant Streets (where Aloha Tower is now located.) At that time, the harbor was dredged to a depth from 20 to 25-feet took place.

The following are reminiscences of the old house in the fort. “In the course of demolishing the ‘Fort’ of Honolulu, now going on, the old stone house, formerly occupied by the Governor, is sharing the fate of the surrounding walls and fast ‘hiding its diminished head.’”

“It was built in 1831, by Governor John Adams Kuakini, (a High Chief, and Governor of the Island of Hawaii from 1820 till his death in 1845,) and was the residence of Governor Kekūanāo‘a until the French ‘raid’ in 1849 …”

“… when he gave it up to the ‘brave Poursuivantes,’ who amused themselves by breaking calabashes, making charcoal sketches on the walls, and recording on them their own praises.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, October 1, 1857 & Thrum’s Annual, 1931)

“While the Government was trying to arrange matters, and while the prime minister was on board the French man-of-war, a squad of soldiers was sent ashore, who took possession of the fort, dismantled the guns, threw them into the harbor, went to Governor Kekūanāo’a’s house, smashed the furniture, and threw it into the yard.” (Lee)

“When, after wreaking their vengeance on the guns and calabashes the French retired to their ships, the Governor disdained again to occupy his desecrated domicile, and it has been used since as a barrack and partly as a prison until the other day, when it was again evacuated for the new prison at Leleo.”

“Many recollections cluster around ‘the old house in the Fort,’ and had we a poet laureate attached to our staff of Government officials, we should seriously recommend the composition of an elegy on this occasion.”

“Here, in bygone days, all who intended to commit matrimony must present themselves before the stern old Governor for his consent to the banns …”

“… here taxes were paid, in poi, fish, tapas, sandalwood and dollars here captains came for permission to ship sailors and far help to catch runaways …”

“… here criminals and offenders of all sorts were summarily disposed of in the ‘good old times’ when we had little law and less equity …”

“… in short, here was transacted all and every kind of Government business, for then the ‘Governor’ was the factotum of the powers that be …”

“… and certainly, in the matter of simplicity and economy, we cannot confidently assert that the present routine is an improvement of the old.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, October 1, 1857 & Thrum’s Annual, 1931)

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No._1._View_of_Honolulu._From_the_harbor._Burgess-(c._1854)
No._1._View_of_Honolulu._From_the_harbor._Burgess-(c._1854)

Filed Under: General Tagged With: Hawaii, Oahu, Kuakini, Fort Kekuanohu, Mataio Kekuanaoa, Kekuanaoa

November 9, 2018 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Black Cat Cafe

“During the 1930s, the thousands of young men who joined the military service and sailed to the Hawaiian Islands for duty considered themselves fortunate indeed to receive such a choice assignment.”

“They enjoyed the beautiful beaches, lush foliage, and year-round pleasant climate that characterized “the Paradise of the Pacific” but, at the same time, they also served as the first line of defense for the United States.”

“On payday, it was the first sergeant who sat with the pay officer at a desk in the day room and called out the names of assembled personnel, one at a time.”

“As his name was called, each man stepped up, saluted the pay officer, repeated his own name, received his pay in cash, saluted again, did an about face, and left the room.”

“The pay in those days was $21 a month for privates, and from that amount 25 cents went to the Old Soldiers Home and $1.50 to the quartermaster laundry. After receiving what was left, the men normally had the rest of the day off.”

“If they wanted to go to Honolulu, a bus ride cost ten cents and taxi fare was a quarter. The bus line ended at the Army and Navy YMCA on Hotel Street in downtown Honolulu where a taxi depot was conveniently located so military members could take cabs to other areas.”

“Across the street was the famous Black Cat Cafe, a favorite hangout for off-duty soldiers and sailors. A Coney Island atmosphere prevailed there, with hot dogs, hamburgers, sea food, slot machines, and various other concessions.” (Arakaki & Kuborn)

“Throughout the afternoon and evening … buses and rattletrap taxis raced down the two-lane highway connecting Pearl Harbor and Honolulu, past the wrecks of similar taxis, and by sunset, a white river of sailors was flowing down Hotel Street.” (Clarke)

“On weekends, the streets of Honolulu were jammed with sailors. Here you will see one location that was popular for its cheap but good food.”

“Nowhere was the hustle and bustle greater than at the Black Cat Café. Ideally situated across from the Armed Forces YMCA at the corner of Hotel and Richards streets, the Cat provided the men with food, slot machines, and various other types of entertainment.”

“One very popular concession was the photo gallery where they could pose for photographs with “hula girls” to send to their families as souvenirs.”

“But for servicemen the food at the Cat was the major draw and after the war it was one of the most fondly recalled pleasures of their time in the Islands.”

“Prices were rock-bottom — the menu in 1941 listed hot dogs for 10 cents, hamburgers for 15 cents, a roast turkey dinner for 50 cents, and the most expensive item was the porterhouse steak with mushrooms for a dollar.” (USS Helena)

“(T)he bar most favored by servicemen. Many said it was the best joint to buy cheap beer and whiskey after working out at the YMCA across the street and before going in search of women.” (Knotts)

“But for servicemen the food at the Cat was the major draw and after the war it was one of the most fondly recalled pleasures of their time in the Islands.” (USS Helena)

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Black Cat Cafe Honolulu, HI 1939
Black Cat Cafe Honolulu, HI 1939
Black Cat-ArizonaLibrary
Black Cat-ArizonaLibrary
Black Cat-7Dec41
Black Cat-7Dec41
Black-Cat
Black-Cat
Soldiers and sailors lined up at a business near the bus depot and taxi stand. Building with the gabled facade is the Black Cat-PP-39-6-001
Soldiers and sailors lined up at a business near the bus depot and taxi stand. Building with the gabled facade is the Black Cat-PP-39-6-001
Black_Cat_Cafe
Black_Cat_Cafe
ww2_blackcat
ww2_blackcat
menu_black_cat_1941
Black Cat-menu-1941
Black Cat-menu-1941
Black Cat-menu-1943
Black Cat-menu-1943

Filed Under: Economy, General, Military Tagged With: YMCA, Black Cat Cafe, Hawaii, Oahu, Downtown Honolulu

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