Oahu | Page 56 | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

January 3, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

‘In Celestial Slums’

“A Health Inspection In Chinatown … Cholera’s Breeding Grounds and Fever’s Spawning-Beds Vile Sights and Smells Abound” as reported in the Hawaiian Star in 1893 …

“This morning a Star reporter accompanied Health Officer McVeigh on his daily trip through Chinatown. The Board of Health has been insisting on the observance of sanitary regulations as laid down in the Code, and of late, has been making raids on Chinese who were not obeying them.”

“‘Now the first place I will take you to is the public washhouse,’ said the officer. ‘Here is the worst cholera breeder there is in this city. Look through the cracks in this floor.’ The reporter looked through and saw a mass of green mud which the tide could not wash away.”

“‘We are expecting to get a new washhouse soon,’ said the officer, ‘but as it is now we are doing the best we can. The Board is looking for ways and means to erect a structure near the new market at the foot of Alakea street. But the way affairs are now only about half the laundrymen use this place as we have no room for any more.’”

“The stench that arises from under and around this washhouse is something terrible and the waters of the Nu‘uanu stream seem to have no effect upon the mass of slops that falls through the floor cracks into it.”

“The next place visited was Leleo Lane, just off King street, near the washhouse. Although the Health officer visits these pest holes every day, it is almost impossible to get the Chinese, (Japanese) and natives who live in them to recognize in the least any necessity for cleanliness.”

“Over sixty eight new cesspools have been built in the last few months and hundreds of ventilator pipes erected where there were none before, but it doesn’t half fill the bill.”

“Decayed poi, the sewage from outhouses and the slops thrown out by inmates have made the places underneath some of these tenements simply unbearable. These places are chiefly owned by Akana, a Chinaman.”

“The next place visited was the notorious ‘Bay View’ resort. This property, until lately overhauled by the health officers, was in a disgusting state. It is under lease to a Chinese procurer named Sam Kow.”

“Kekaulike street is another offshoot from King street and is environed by some of the broken down Chinese tenements, the yards of which smell to heaven.”

“The microbes and bacteria could be caught floating around in the air, while the effluvia was loathsome. These tenements are owned by Low Chung, of the Wing Wo Tai Co.”

“Coming through on Maunakea street the eye, as well as the nose, is assailed by the most loathsome sights and smells. The wash houses and vegetable shops are rivals as to which can emit the foulest odors. This property is owned by JF Colburn.”

“When the officer went into a tenement the other day in this locality, he ran across a trap and opened it and found a cesspool. Lighting a match he threw it into the pool when an explosion took place and blue flames mounted to the roof.”

“There are some exceptions to the rule of poor buildings in this place for ES Cunha is putting up on Maunakea street a one story brick block, with plenty of drains and cesspools, and he thinks it will pay better than the old ramshackle buildings that are around him.”

“Kikihale district was next taken in by the officer. This is the resort of the worst of Honolulu’s submerged classes.”

“Depraved native women without pretention of moral or physical cleanliness are lying about in one-story whitewashed tenements, disputing possession with the mangy curs that flock around them.”

“The outhouses are in the customary Cape Horn condition and the officer warns the occupants to use ‘more lime,’ which he forces them to have continually on hand. Ching Wa of the Sing Chong Co. is the principal owner of tenements in this district.”

“On the corner of Smith and Pauahi streets there are a lot of dives that have got to be watched continually by the officer. They are owned by Ho Sam, a wealthy rice planter at ‘Ewa, and A Aio, a Chinese merchant.”

“The officer was now approaching the sacred precincts of Kaumakapili Church, and quite within its shadow, descending a few steps near Nu‘uanu stream, off Beretania street, he presented to the reporter an opium den in full blast.”

“Officer McVeigh had evidently intended this as his last scene. Here were fully thirty Chinamen and natives sucking away at the demon pipe right in the shadow of Kaumakapili!”

“Near this place, seated on the ground, was an emaciated Chinaman in the last stages of berri berri, swollen beyond recognition.”

“This ended the journey for this day.” (Hawaiian Star, May 27, 1893)

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Honolulu-Chinatown-1893

November 12, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

The Old House in the Fort

On O‘ahu, in 1815, Kamehameha I granted Russian representatives permission to build a storehouse near Honolulu Harbor. But, instead, directed by the German adventurer Georg Schaffer (1779-1836,) they began building a fort and raised the Russian flag.

They built their blockhouse near the harbor, against the ancient heiau of Pākākā and close to the King’s complex. There are reports that the Russians used stones from Pākākā in building their facility.

As a side note, Pākākā was the site of Kaua‘i’s King Kaumuali‘i’s negotiations relinquishing power to Kamehameha I, instead of going to war, and pledged allegiance to Kamehameha, a few years earlier in 1810.

When Kamehameha discovered the Russians were building a fort (rather than storehouses) and had raised the Russian flag, he sent several chiefs, along with John Young (his advisor,) to remove the Russians from Oʻahu by force, if necessary.

The Russian personnel judiciously chose to sail for Kauai instead of risking bloodshed. On Kauai, there they were given land by Kauai’s King Kaumuali‘i; the Russian Fort Elizabeth was built soon after on Kauai.

The partially built blockhouse at Honolulu was finished by Hawaiians under the direction of John Young and mounted guns protected the fort. Its original purpose was to protect Honolulu by keeping enemy or otherwise undesirable ships out. But, it was also used to keep things in (it also served as a prison.)

By 1830, the fort had 40 guns mounted on the parapets all of various calibers (6, 8, 12 and probably a few 32 pounders.) Fort Kekuanohu literally means ‘the back of the scorpion fish,’ as in ‘thorny back,’ because of the rising guns on the walls. In 1838 there were 52 guns reported.

The fort protected Honolulu Harbor and also housed a number of administrative functions, including many years of service as Honolulu’s police headquarters. The first courts of the islands were held here until a new courthouse was built in 1853, adjacent to the fort.

Then the fort was taken down and the prison moved. A prison was built in 1856-57 at Iwilei; it took the place of the old Fort Kekuanohu. The new custom-house was completed in 1860. The water-works were much enlarged, and a system of pipes laid down in 1861.

Between 1857 and 1870, the coral block walls of the dismantled Fort edged and filled about 22-acres of reef and tideland, forming the ‘Esplanade’ or ‘Ainahou,’ between Fort and Merchant Streets (where Aloha Tower is now located.) At that time, the harbor was dredged to a depth from 20 to 25-feet took place.

The following are reminiscences of the old house in the fort. “In the course of demolishing the ‘Fort’ of Honolulu, now going on, the old stone house, formerly occupied by the Governor, is sharing the fate of the surrounding walls and fast ‘hiding its diminished head.’”

“It was built in 1831, by Governor John Adams Kuakini, (a High Chief, and Governor of the Island of Hawaii from 1820 till his death in 1845,) and was the residence of Governor Kekūanāo‘a until the French ‘raid’ in 1849 …”

“… when he gave it up to the ‘brave Poursuivantes,’ who amused themselves by breaking calabashes, making charcoal sketches on the walls, and recording on them their own praises.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, October 1, 1857 & Thrum’s Annual, 1931)

“While the Government was trying to arrange matters, and while the prime minister was on board the French man-of-war, a squad of soldiers was sent ashore, who took possession of the fort, dismantled the guns, threw them into the harbor, went to Governor Kekūanāo’a’s house, smashed the furniture, and threw it into the yard.” (Lee)

“When, after wreaking their vengeance on the guns and calabashes the French retired to their ships, the Governor disdained again to occupy his desecrated domicile, and it has been used since as a barrack and partly as a prison until the other day, when it was again evacuated for the new prison at Leleo.”

“Many recollections cluster around ‘the old house in the Fort,’ and had we a poet laureate attached to our staff of Government officials, we should seriously recommend the composition of an elegy on this occasion.”

“Here, in bygone days, all who intended to commit matrimony must present themselves before the stern old Governor for his consent to the banns …”

“… here taxes were paid, in poi, fish, tapas, sandalwood and dollars here captains came for permission to ship sailors and far help to catch runaways …”

“… here criminals and offenders of all sorts were summarily disposed of in the ‘good old times’ when we had little law and less equity …”

“… in short, here was transacted all and every kind of Government business, for then the ‘Governor’ was the factotum of the powers that be …”

“… and certainly, in the matter of simplicity and economy, we cannot confidently assert that the present routine is an improvement of the old.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, October 1, 1857 & Thrum’s Annual, 1931)

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No._1._View_of_Honolulu._From_the_harbor._Burgess-(c._1854)

November 9, 2018 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Black Cat Cafe

“During the 1930s, the thousands of young men who joined the military service and sailed to the Hawaiian Islands for duty considered themselves fortunate indeed to receive such a choice assignment.”

“They enjoyed the beautiful beaches, lush foliage, and year-round pleasant climate that characterized “the Paradise of the Pacific” but, at the same time, they also served as the first line of defense for the United States.”

“On payday, it was the first sergeant who sat with the pay officer at a desk in the day room and called out the names of assembled personnel, one at a time.”

“As his name was called, each man stepped up, saluted the pay officer, repeated his own name, received his pay in cash, saluted again, did an about face, and left the room.”

“The pay in those days was $21 a month for privates, and from that amount 25 cents went to the Old Soldiers Home and $1.50 to the quartermaster laundry. After receiving what was left, the men normally had the rest of the day off.”

“If they wanted to go to Honolulu, a bus ride cost ten cents and taxi fare was a quarter. The bus line ended at the Army and Navy YMCA on Hotel Street in downtown Honolulu where a taxi depot was conveniently located so military members could take cabs to other areas.”

“Across the street was the famous Black Cat Cafe, a favorite hangout for off-duty soldiers and sailors. A Coney Island atmosphere prevailed there, with hot dogs, hamburgers, sea food, slot machines, and various other concessions.” (Arakaki & Kuborn)

“Throughout the afternoon and evening … buses and rattletrap taxis raced down the two-lane highway connecting Pearl Harbor and Honolulu, past the wrecks of similar taxis, and by sunset, a white river of sailors was flowing down Hotel Street.” (Clarke)

“On weekends, the streets of Honolulu were jammed with sailors. Here you will see one location that was popular for its cheap but good food.”

“Nowhere was the hustle and bustle greater than at the Black Cat Café. Ideally situated across from the Armed Forces YMCA at the corner of Hotel and Richards streets, the Cat provided the men with food, slot machines, and various other types of entertainment.”

“One very popular concession was the photo gallery where they could pose for photographs with “hula girls” to send to their families as souvenirs.”

“But for servicemen the food at the Cat was the major draw and after the war it was one of the most fondly recalled pleasures of their time in the Islands.”

“Prices were rock-bottom — the menu in 1941 listed hot dogs for 10 cents, hamburgers for 15 cents, a roast turkey dinner for 50 cents, and the most expensive item was the porterhouse steak with mushrooms for a dollar.” (USS Helena)

“(T)he bar most favored by servicemen. Many said it was the best joint to buy cheap beer and whiskey after working out at the YMCA across the street and before going in search of women.” (Knotts)

“But for servicemen the food at the Cat was the major draw and after the war it was one of the most fondly recalled pleasures of their time in the Islands.” (USS Helena)

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Black Cat Cafe Honolulu, HI 1939

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Black-Cat

Soldiers and sailors lined up at a business near the bus depot and taxi stand. Building with the gabled facade is the Black Cat-PP-39-6-001

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October 28, 2018 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Koʻolau Volcano

O‘ahu used to be nearly twice as big as it is now. (Thompson) The Island consists of two major shield volcanoes: Waiʻanae and Koʻolau; the eroded remnants of which are the Waiʻanae Range and the Koʻolau Range.

Waiʻanae is the older of the two (breaking the ocean surface ~3.9 to ~2.8 million-years ago) and makes up the western part of O‘ahu. Koʻolau volcano started as a seamount above the Hawaiian hotspot around 4-million years ago. It broke sea level some time prior to 2.9-million years ago.

Koʻolaupoko, one of O‘ahu’s six ancient moku (districts,) is bounded by Kalaeoka‘ō‘io, which is a point near the center of the northeast coast at Kualoa; the crest of the Koʻolau Range to the west; and Makapuʻu Point on the southeastern tip of the island.

This expanse also generally delineates the extent of Koʻolau Volcano – effectively from and including Kāne‘ohe to Kailua to Waimānalo. A significant landslide and ongoing erosion reshaped the volcano.

About 2-million years ago, much of the northeast flank of Koʻolau volcano was sheared off and material was swept onto the ocean floor (named the Nuʻuanu Avalanche) – one of the largest landslides on Earth.

The Pali is the remaining edge of the giant basin, or caldera, formed by the volcano. At its base are the towns of Kāne’ohe, Kailua and Waimānalo – beyond that, open ocean. The other half of the caldera, an area the size of Brooklyn, tore away and tumbled into the ocean. (Sullivan)

Material swept more than 140-miles north of O‘ahu and Molokai. For the last 85-miles of its journey, the avalanche traveled uphill by about 1000 feet, leaving jumbled blocks – once part of O‘ahu – scattered over more than 9,000-square miles of seafloor. (Sinton)

Residual ridges, remnants of the old Koʻolau volcano, extend northeast from the Pali. These include the Mokulua islands, Olomana, Kapaʻa (where the quarry is,) Mahinui (Oneawa, Kalaheo) and Keolu Hills.

Mōkapu Peninsula (where Marine Corps Base Hawai‘i is situated) is evidence of subsequent secondary volcanic eruptions that formed Ulupaʻu Crater (the large hill on the Kailua side of the peninsula,) Pu‘u Hawaiiloa (the central hill that originally had the base control tower, now has radar (‘the hill’,)) Pyramid Rock and the nearby Moku Manu (Bird Island.)

Following a period of dormancy, Koʻolau erupted about 1-million years ago (known as the Honolulu Volcanic Series) and created landmarks such as Lēʻahi (Diamond Head,) Hanauma Bay, Pūowaina (Punchbowl Crater) and Āliapaʻakai (Salt Lake.) Another tuff cone is Mānana Island (Rabbit Island.)

Pounded by the tradewind and rains, the windward side of O‘ahu is more weathered than the leeward areas of the island, and now this vast caldera wall is reduced to a line of sheer cliffs stretching from Makapuʻu to Kualoa and beyond.

The flat valley floors are extensively eroded, and are now mostly joined, studded here and there with isolated remnant peaks and ridges connected to the central range. (Klieger)

Coral reefs and marine terraces were formed at different elevations due to the changing sea levels over time. There are some broad lowland areas in the lower reaches of deeply alluvial valleys. (Moberly)

It was the broadness of this coastal plain (which included swampy areas near the shore) that distinguished Koʻolaupoko from other areas of O‘ahu, and most likely helped account for the intensity and productiveness of agriculture.

The abundant rainfall produces constantly flowing streams that supported the vast expanse of wetland kalo (taro) lo‘i (pondfields) that once extended throughout Koʻolaupoko. (Klieger)

Because Kāne’ohe Bay has a deep lagoon between an outer reef and the shore, the reef is considered by some geologists to be a barrier reef, the only example in Hawaii. Several fishponds lined the bay.

Mokoliʻi (Chinaman’s Hat) and Mokuoloe (Coconut Island) are erosional remnants of the bedrock Koʻolau basalt; Kapapa and Kekepa (Turtleback) Islands are of limestone; and Ahu O Laka Island is a sand bar that is uncovered at low tide. (Moberly)

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September 14, 2018 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Hind-Clarke Dairy

Robert Hind and Hannah Peirce Low were married in Honolulu, April 26, 1892. In 1893 he entered into a partnership with his brother-in-law, Eben P. Low, in the cattle ranch on the Island of Hawaii, now known as Puuwaawaa.

In 1903 Mr. Hind purchased Mr. Low’s interest in the ranch and took over full management of the property, resigning his position with the Hawi Mill and Plantation Co., Ltd. which he had held continuously since 1885. Mr. Hind now has more than two thousand head of cattle on the Puuwaawaa ranch.

Identified for forty years with the development of cattle ranching and dairying in Hawaii, Robert Hind, son of a pioneer sugar planter who came to the islands from England in the 60’s, has also been prominent in public life and at present is devoting most of his attention to the improvement of land holdings on the islands of Hawaii and Oahu. (Nellist)

In 1918 Robert Hind started Kapahulu Dairy. (Kelly) In 1924, Hind purchased 2,090-acres and established the Hind-Clarke Dairy with John K Clarke. “Rancher and Cattleman To Import 100 Pure Bred Guernseys At Once Will Be Added To Stock Ready for Opening of Hind-Clarke Dairy”

“One hundred pure bred Guernsey milch cows for the Hind-Clarke dairy, which is to be opened for business in the Waialae district later in the summer, will arrive from San Francisco June 30, announces Robert Hind, rancher and dairyman, who returned from the mainland on the steamer Wilhelmina Tuesday.”

“The cows, which represent one of the largest purchases of milch cows ever made for any dairy In Hawaii, were obtained by Hind during his recent trip to the mainland. The cost of the cows has not yet been announced, but it will total many thousands of dollar.”

“‘The cows are of the purest breed.’ explained Hind in discussing his purchase. ‘I bought them in Wisconsin and I expect them to arrive about the latter part of June.’”

“‘These cows will produce the highest quality of milk, which will be of a rich color and of a taste for which the Guernsey is famous. The animals have the best kind of pedigrees and would be valuable additions to any dairy.’”

“The dairy already has 150 Holstein cows, which produce milk In quantity, and the coming herd will increase his herd to at least 250 milk producers.”

“During his visit on the mainland Hind visited many of the leading dairies of the United States. He studied their methods and has brought back to Hawaii many ideas and plans for the dairy.”

“According to present plans the Hind-Clarke dairy will wholesale and retail milk. The dairy will specialize in certified milk and it is planned to make the dairy one of the most efficient In the islands. Modern machinery, such as bottling machines, will be used In the dairy, Hind added.”

“Hind for some years has been operating a large dairy at Kaimuki, but bought a big tract of land between Kaimuki and Koko Head and is developing a model dairy plant there, construction of which has been under way for many months.”

“John K. Clarke is associated with him and O. A. Young, dairy expert, formerly of Seattle. is resident manager.” (Star Bulletin, June 10, 1925)

The Hind-Clarke Dairy was a favored stop along the road, as noted in a 1930 visitor’s guide …

“The Hind-Clarke Dairy, a short way ahead and to our left with a large sign over the entrance, is not to be passed unnoticed. The dairy is a model of its kind and well affords an opportunity to see dairying in its most scientific form. The cottage cheese on sale is, perhaps, the most delicious you have ever tasted.” (Cultural Surveys)

“And Hind-Clarke Dairy had this drive-in where they had their own ice cream parlor [Hind-Clarke Drive Inn]. And later on it got to be known as M’s Ranch House.” (‘M’ referencing Mona Hind Holmes, Robert’s daughter.)

“Until only recently it was still there, and they finally closed down. But it started out as a Hind-Clarke Dairy ice cream parlor, but people drove in there to buy ice cream.” (Yamaguchi Oral History)

Robert Hind died in December 1938. Robert Hind, Ltd, under the direction of Trustee John K. Clarke (who oversaw the trust until his death in 1951), continued operation of the Pu‘uwa‘awa‘a Ranch holdings, and various interests both on Hawai‘i (Pu‘uwa‘awa‘a, Captain Cook, and Honomalino) and O‘ahu (Aina Haina). (Rechtman)

In 1946, the ‘Āina Haina dairy operation was sold to Creameries of America, and soon after that began to develop the remainder of his land for residential use.

The former cattle pasture was subdivided into lots to form a new residential community called ‘Āina Haina (which means, “Hind’s land.”)

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