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June 1, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Gulick – Rowell House

In 1828, three new missionaries arrived at Waimea, Kauai, to aid the Reverend and Mrs. Samuel Whitney in the operation of the missionary station there. The new arrivals were the Reverend and Mrs. Peter Gulick (and their infant son), and Miss Maria Ogden. (NPS)

Peter Johnson Gulick (1797 – 1877) and his wife, Fanny Hinckley Thomas Gulick (1798 – 1883,) sailed with the Third Company of ABCFM missionaries from Boston on November 3, 1827 aboard the ship Parthian, and reached Honolulu on March 30, 1828, a voyage of 148 days. (Gulick)

Gulick was born in Freehold, Monmouth Co, New Jersey, March 12, 1797. His father John Gulick (Hulick, or Ulick, as some of his kindred wrote the name) was of Dutch extraction.

“Shortly after I was of age, I went again to N. Y. & was in the employ of the widdow Corwin, with whom I had formerly lived. This woman, Mrs. Corwin, first suggested to me the ideas of studying, & preparing for the ministry.”

“In the fall of 1825, I entered the Princeton Theol. Semy. where Drs. Alexander & Miller & proffessor Chas. Hodge then taught. There I spent two very happy years”.

“Near the close of my second year in the Semy. I was licensed, by the Presbytery of N. Brunswick as an evangelist to preach the Gospel; & on Sep. 5 1827, was married to … Miss (Fanny Hinckley) Thomas.” (Gulick) They then sailed to Hawai‘i.

The governor of Kauai, Kaikioʻewa, prepared a native house for them, of poles and thatching, but including a board floor. Within a year, the Reverend Gulick began the construction of a more substantial home for his family. He used coral limestone for the foundation and walls, this being cut from offshore reefs by Hawaiian workers and floated ashore.

Gulick’s Waimea home is a simple, and functional structure, yet well-proportioned with well-crafted detailing. It is an excellent example of a New England approach to residential architecture adapted to the Hawaiian climate.

He paid his Hawaiian assistants in goats, Bibles, textbooks, and other articles out of the “common stock” of the Honolulu preserved as well as one of the finest examples of early missionary residences on Kauai. (The Gulicks were stationed at Waimea, Kauai, 1828 – 1835, then were sent to Kōloa, 1835 -1843.)

The Gulick family occupied the house as soon as they could, although work continued on it. However, in 1834, they were transferred to Koloa, another mission station on Kauai, and for twelve years, the home stood unoccupied, except for the few occasions that needy Hawaiian families were housed there.

(Following their Kauai service, the Gulicks were transferred to Kaluaʻaha, 1843 – 1846 where he was superintendent of Molokai schools; then to Waialua, O‘ahu 1846 – 1857; and in 1857 retired to live in Honolulu. In 1874 the Gulicks left Hawaii to live with their son, Orramel, a missionary in Kobe, Japan.)

In 1846, the Revered George Berkeley Rowell (1815-1884) and his wife, Malvina Jerusha Chapin Rowell (1816-1901) (of the Tenth Company of missionaries) were transferred from the Waioli Mission on Kauai to Waimea, where they moved into the former Gulick home (that had been vacant since the Gulick’s left.)

Rowell, the son of Joseph and Hannah (Chase) Rowell, was born at Cornish, New Hampshire, January 22, 1815, and was prepared for college at Kimball Union Academy, Meriden, NH.

He entered Amherst in the fall of 1832, but absence from college during the third year delayed his graduation till 1837. The next four years were spent in the study of theology at Andover Seminary, and October 27, 1841, he was ordained as a foreign missionary at Cornish, NH. George and Malvina married on January 22, 1842, and sailed from Boston in May, 1842, for the Hawaiian Islands.

Reverend Rowell, a carpenter and cabinetmaker, substantially rebuilt the house, adding the rear end, all the woodwork for the verandahs, and a new roof. Rowell also made most of the furnishings for the house.

After first putting doors and windows in one room to ensure a degree of privacy from their curious parishioners, the Rowells rebuilt the house, then added to it as their family grew.

The Rowells remained at Waimea in the home until 1865. After that the home was occupied by various plantation manager’s families from the local sugar cultivation operations. Each made their share of alterations or improvements, but the end result was not a significant departure from the original design. (NPS)

Recently, the house was purchased by Jim Ballantine, a 4th generation West Kauai resident with the goal of setting up a non-profit organization to work in partnership with established community groups and local non-profits insure the survival of Gulick Rowell Hale Puna and prepare it for its third century as a valuable asset for the community of West Kauai.

HalePuna.org’s mission is to restore Gulick Rowell Hale Puna. Once restored, the house and working farm will provide for the conservation and study of the historically significant property.

The house will be used as a community center for presenting events and performances that contribute to the cultural fabric of West Kauai life and celebrate the building’s unique place in our community. (halepuna-org)

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Gulick-Rowell House Waimea, Kauai
Gulick-Rowell House Waimea, Kauai

Filed Under: Buildings Tagged With: Gulick, Missionaries, Kauai, Waimea, American Board of Commissioners of Foreign Missions, Peter Johnson Gulick, George Rowell, American Protestant Missionaries, Samuel Whitney, Hawaii

March 29, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Wai‘oli Mission

In 1834, the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions (ABCFM) sent Reverend William P Alexander to scout the north coast of Kauai for a suitable location for a second station (the first started in 1820 at Waimea.)

A pole and thatch meetinghouse was constructed by Hawaiians on the Mission Hall site, in anticipation of the arrival of the missionaries.

Alexander chose the Hanalei area because of its harbor, fertile soil, and needs of the people. The site was called Waioli, ‘Singing Waters.’

Deborah Kapule, the dowager Queen of Kauai and earnest convert, assisted in establishing the Mission. Governor Kaikioewa of Kauai provided the land, and encouraged the Mission in many ways.

The first thatch church was destroyed by fire in 1834, just prior to the arrival of the Alexanders. He immediately built another similar structure.

Alexander and his wife and son began work immediately, preaching to hundreds of islanders in a huge thatched meeting house while living in a small grass hut. They began their secular teaching also, and could soon report that 1,232 of their students could read and 257 could write.

The Alexanders carried on alone with their work until 1837 when the Board of Commissioners sent a teaching couple, Mr. and Mrs. Edward Johnson, to the mission. In the meantime, the Alexanders built a frame house for their growing family.

The Johnson’s took over the bulk of the teaching duties and began to place more of an emphasis on educating the children rather than the adults. (Alexander had earlier noted a drop in enthusiasm for schooling among the older parishioners.)

To help make ends meet, the mission planted crops in land donated by the Governor of Kauai. The students helped cultivate the crops, and by so doing, learned agricultural techniques. Cotton was tried without much success. Sugar cane proved much more suitable.

In 1838, a frame house was built for the Johnsons, as their grass hut had fallen victim to the elements. Plans were also made for the construction of a frame church/meeting house. Materials were collected, and the sugar crop was earmarked to help pay construction costs. (NPS)

In 1841, Rev. Alexander dedicated the present old Waioli Hui‘ia Church. Shortly after the church was dedicated, a belfry was constructed behind the main structure. Its architecture is similar, and it stands twenty-four feet in height.

The old Church is an imposing structure, with a main interior space of 35 by 70 feet. An open lanai (porch) surrounds the building on three sides, with wood posts supporting the eaves of the tall, high-pitched roof.

The pitch is broken over the plate line with a lesser slope above the lanai. This type of roof is a modified copy of the type of roof used in early Hawaiian structures. The original roof was thatch, later replaced by shingles then galvanized iron, then back to shingles, which now cover it.

In 1843, the Alexanders were transferred to the Lahaina station due to illness, and Rev. and Mrs. George Rowell took their place. In the meantime, Mr. Johnson, concerned about the slowness of the Lahainaluna High School in turning out native teachers, began classes of his own to train them.

Additional land was cultivated to meet expenses. Shortly after this, the Hawaiian government began to take more control of education, and Wai‘oli Mission School became a ‘select school.’

One feature of this was that the most promising students were taught English. Wai‘oli sent several students to the Lahainaluna High School for advanced education, and many trained by Mr. Johnson took over teaching duties in the common schools on Kauai.

In 1846, Rowell and his wife were transferred to Waimea and Johnson was licensed to become the minister at Wai‘oli. Mr and Mrs Abner Wilcox and their four boys were sent from O‘ahu to take over the teaching duties.

Wilcox was to “raise up teachers for the common schools of the island and to prepare those who may go from our Island to the High School”.

While carrying out his teaching duties, he also managed the growing agricultural enterprises of the mission, which by now included taro, yams, potatoes, beans, corn, and bananas. The produce was sold to passing vessels to help the mission meet expenses.

By mid-century, most of the people in the Islands had received some sort of Christian instruction, and they were further advanced in the eyes of the missionaries than any other Pacific islanders.

Because of this, the ABCFM began to withdraw support of the Hawaiian Missions. In 1863, they transferred the Sandwich Islands Mission to the Hawaiian Evangelical Association. (NPS)

As the center of mission activities on the Hanalei side of Kauai, Wai‘oli Church and Mission House played an important role in the history of that part of the island.

Presently, the old Waioli Church is the oldest (1841) church on the Island of Kauai and the whole mission complex is retained in excellent, livable condition despite its age and the deteriorating effects of the weather on Kauai. It was later used as a social hall.

In 1912, a new Wai‘oli Church building was given by three sons of Abner Wilcox; Sam, George and Albert. This shingled church, built in the American Gothic architectural style, has a belfry tower which houses the old Mission Bell.

This bell was rung throughout the years, calling people to worship. In 1921 the Wilcox descendants restored the Mission House and the Mission Hall.

The Wai‘oli Church grew under the guidance of the Hawaiian ministers. By 1945, the Wanini Church and the Ha‘ena Church had joined the Wai‘oli Church to form the Wai`oli Hui‘ia Church. (Hanalei Church)

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Waioli-Huiia-Church-7-themes
Waioli-Huiia-Church-7-themes
Old Waioli Church
Old Waioli Church
Old Waioli Church
Old Waioli Church
Old Waioli Church
Old Waioli Church
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Waioli-Huiia-Church
Waioli-Huiia-Church-in-Hanalei-Kauai
Waioli-Huiia-Church-in-Hanalei-Kauai
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waioli-huiia-church-lansing
Waioli-Huiia-Church-interior-WC
Waioli-Huiia-Church-interior-WC

Filed Under: Missionaries / Churches / Religious Buildings, Place Names Tagged With: Kauai, Waioli, Waioli Mission, William P Alexander, Hanalei . Waioli Huiia Church, Edward Johnson, George Rowell, Abner Wilcox, Waioli Church, Hawaii

March 21, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kahili

The legendary history of Kauai “is the most unsatisfactory to whoever undertakes to reduce the national legends, traditions, and chants to some degree of historical form and sequence. The legends are disconnected and the genealogies are few ….”

“That the ruling families of Kauai were the highest tabu chiefs in the group is evident from the avidity with which chiefs and chiefesses of the other islands sought alliance with them. They were always considered as the purest of the ‘blue blood’ of the Hawaiian aristocracy ….”

“But of the exploits and transactions of most of the chiefs who ruled over Kauai during this period, there is little preserved to tell.” (Fornander)

“Hilltops are favorable sites for making an imposing structure with the minimum of labor. The sides of the hill are usually faced to the desired height, and the top, possibly artificially leveled, is paved with stones.” (Bennett)

“A few miles to the west of Koloa is a mountain, called by the natives Kahili (feather standard, symbolic of royalty); why this name I know not, as the most imaginative fancy could not detect a resemblance in any particular between the two. In fact, it differs so little from its neighbors, that it would attract but a partial glance, or be noted only as an interesting feature in the general landscape. Then why all these words about it, one will be inclined to ask. … ”

“In fact, it differs so little from its neighbors, that it would attract but a partial glance, or be noted only as an interesting feature in the general landscape.”

“Then why all these words about it, one will be inclined to ask. I will tell.”

“Simply because it was my fortune one day to ascend it, in company with some friends; and being much gratified with the excursion, I wish to take the reader up with me, as well as pen and ink will allow.” (Jarves)

“On Kahili peak, on the ridge between Koloa and Lihue at an elevation of 3000 feet is a structure that may have served as a fort.” (Bennett)

Kikuchi “would suggest that this was a shrine of unknown function. Its position and elevation command a clear view of the southern shore of Kauai as well as the lands to the east. Its size would limit the number of people on the site and the posts may be an alignment for ‘astronomical’ and ceremonial determination.”

“Mouna Kahili, which we shortly reached, we ascended on foot, following up the back-bone of the spur which leads to the very summit. As it was steep and slippery, owing to the smooth grass, our progress at first was slow, and our knees soon began to tremble, and no doubt, as far as they were concerned, wished they had not come.”

“Ascending higher, the mountain gradually becomes more densely wooded, and the spur narrower, until its breadth is scarcely two feet, presenting a sharp ridge, bordered on either side by precipices of several hundred to some thousand feet in depth.”

“These precipices are overgrown with vegetation, sparse towards the top, where the banks are too steep for soil to accumulate, but gradually growing denser until it reaches the bottom, where they terminate in dells crowded with groves of dark-leaved hail, the silvery-leaved kukui, and the stately ohia with its beautiful red flowers, contrasting finely to the various shades of surrounding green.” (Jarves, 1841)

“After groping our way in this fashion for an hour or more, we reached the summit. It consisted of a small plot of earth about a rod square, bare in the centre, but overgrown with stout trees upon its sides.”

“Upon it were several large timbers, of a foot in diameter, standing perpendicular, and about twelve feet high, with notches for foot-hold cut in them.”

“These, as runs the legend, have stood from time immemorial, that is to say, some half century or more, and are the remains of a fortification which a chief erected, who lived on bad terms with his less elevated neighbors.”

“As the approaches to its site are a succession of narrow ridges, a few warriors were able to set a host of enemies at defiance, and make the place impregnable.” (Jarves)

“In 1915 this structure was examined by Mr. John FG Stokes and Mr Charles Dole in behalf of Bishop Museum. Mr. Dole reported that an area 12 feet by 27 feet has been leveled off the top of the peak at least to decomposed rock, but much cutting in solid rock is improbable.”

“Instead of several long posts, 1 foot in diameter, reported by Jarves, Stokes and Dole found one post 13 feet 2 inches high, and 11 inches in diameter, and smaller ones 3.5, 1.75, 1.2 5, and 0.75 feet high, and 6 to 8 inches in diameter.”

“The posts are of kauila wood which is said to have come from the mountains back of Waimea. If so, great labor must have been expended in dragging them up the steep ascent. The only artificial work mentioned are notches on the large post. Reports of carving were not substantiated. An adz and several waterworn stones (not sling stones) were found on this platform.”

“The function of this structure is uncertain as it is not mentioned in native traditions. As the position gives a commanding view in clear weather, Mr. Stokes suggests that it may have served as a lookout: but Mr. Dole reports that the peak is usually surrounded by clouds.”

“The suggestion of Jarves that the site was the home of a robber chief seems improbable in view of the climatic conditions.”

“By some it has been considered a funeral pyre on which the bodies of the chiefs were left to decompose. The difficulties attending the construction of such a site implies that it was built by some powerful chief who could command the labor.” (Bennett)

“The function of the site is not very clear from these descriptions. Jarves and Stokes’s suggestion that the site was the home of a robber chief or a lookout is improbable because of the harsh climate of the area. The site is often covered with clouds, drenched with rain, and in a very windy, cold place.”

“Could the site be the “funeral pyre” of a chief? Hawaiian custom prohibit cremation except for violators of certain taboos. A large fire at this location would have been a most difficult labor and if it did occur, the evidence of scorching of the posts would have been noted.”

“The use of the site as a funeral platform is a possibility, but nothing in the descriptions would point to this as a function. Such a use of the site would have been recorded in local legends.”

“One thing is sure: that the site was of importance and must have been ‘financed’ by a person of high status. The labor required to cut the kauila logs, to transport them up the steep slope to the site, and finally to place them into holes cut into the bedrock was most demanding.” (Kikuchi)

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Kahili Peak mountain ranges in the fore front and Waialeale in the distance-birdofparadise
Kahili Peak mountain ranges in the fore front and Waialeale in the distance-birdofparadise
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Kahili-Burd
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Kahili-kamloops
Kahili-Prichard
Kahili-Prichard
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Kahili_Falls

Filed Under: Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance, Hawaiian Traditions, Place Names Tagged With: Hawaii, Kauai, Kahili

February 20, 2018 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Island Names

We still pronounce some of the Hawaiian Island names differently.

After western contact and attempts to write about Hawai‘i, early writers tried to spell words based on the sound of the words they heard. People heard words differently, so it was not uncommon for words to be spelled differently, depending on the writer.

However, it may be helpful to look how early writers wrote the respective Island names and see if there is a consistency in representative letters for names and the sounds they represent.

Remember, the writing of the letters in each word is based on the sound they hear, then written in the context of the sound of based on their own English language (and pronounced in the English language).

The first writers were Captain James Cook and his crew. Here are the ways he spelled the Island names (and the words we use for them now).

Cook (1778-1779:)
Oreehoua, or Keehoua (Lehua)
Tahoora (Kaʻula)
Oneeheow or Neeheehow (Niʻihau)
Atooi, Atowi, or Towi, and sometimes Kowi (Kauai)
Woahoo, or Oahoo (Oʻahu)
Morotoi or Morokoi (Molokai)
Ranai, or Oranai (Lanai)
Mowee (Maui)
Morotinnee, or Morokinnee (Molokini)
Kahowrowee, or Tahoorowa (Kaho‘olawe)
Owhyhee (Hawaiʻi)

First off, let’s look at the preceding O or A in some of the names. ‘O, and sometimes ʻA, beginning a word are markers to note proper name subjects (persons, places or certain special things.) They are vocatives (addressing the person or place you are talking about or to) – i.e. Atooi means ‘this is (or, ‘it is’) Tooi’ – so it is a proper word and the Island name is ‘Tooi.’ (Johnson)

Here are some other early writers’ ways of writing the Island names by the sounds each hears:

Portlock (1785-1788)
Tahoora (Ka‘ula)
Oneehow (Ni‘ihau)
Atoui
Woahoo
Morotoi
Ranai
Mowee
Owhyhee

Vancouver (1792-1794)
Attowai (Kauai)
Woahoo
Morotoi
Ranai
Mowee (Maui)
Owhyhee (Hawaiʻi)

Hiram Bingham (1820-1840)
Owhyhee (Hawaiʻi)
Woahoo (Oʻahu)
Attooi (Kauai)

Let’s start with the double vowel sounds to start to break down the sound … double O, ‘oo’, has a sound that rhymes with ‘Too’ or ‘Two’. Double E, ‘ee’, sounds like the way we say the single letter ‘E’ (rhyming with ‘wee’).

Now let’s look at the ‘i’ in the words – it, too, sounds like the way we say the single letter ‘I’ (rhyming with ‘eye’).

So ‘Atooi’ really is ‘Tooi’ – sounding like ‘two – eye’. As Hiram Bingham was working on the alphabet developed for the written Hawaiian, he actually notes that Atooi (Kauai), in his early writing was written as ‘Kau‘ ai’ (with the ‘okina before the second ‘a’, not after it) and sounds like ‘cow-eye’.

Some, today, say Atooi is pronounced as ‘Ah’ ‘two’ ‘ee’; however, they are putting in the Hawaiian sound for ‘I’ (which sounds like ‘ee’), rather than the English sound for ‘I’, which rhymes with ‘eye’.

Another Island name with varied pronunciations today is Molokai.

It seems there are at least two schools of thought; an explanation on the pronunciation/spelling of the island name (Molokai (Moh-loh-kī) versus Molokaʻi (Moh-loh-kah-ee)) is noted in the early portion of “Tales of Molokai The Voice of Harriet Ne” by Harriet Ahiona Ayau Ne with Gloria L. Cronin.

Harriet Ne’s grandson, Edward Halealoha Ayau, noted:

“The reason that the name Molokai (as used in the book) is left without the glottal stop is because my tūtū wahine (grandmother) says that when she was growing up in Pelekunu it was never pronounced Molokaʻi (Moh-loh-kah-ee), but rather Molokai (Moh-loh-kī).”

“Then in about the 1930s, the name changed to Molokaʻi, in part she believes because musicians began pronouncing the name that way. Mary Kawena Pukuʻi, three weeks before her death, called my tūtū and told her that the correct name is Molokai, which means ‘the gathering of the ocean waters.’”

“On the rugged north coast of the island, the ocean slams hard into the pali. On the south and east shores, the ocean glides gently to shore due to location of reefs at least a quarter of a mile offshore. Hence the name, Molokai, ‘Gathering of the Ocean Waters.’”

In a follow-up exchange with Halealoha, he resolved the matter saying that the “best answer is both pronunciations are correct and the most correct depends on which family you are speaking to. So for our ʻohana, it would be Molokai. For others, Molokaʻi.”

Bingham writes, “Aiming to avoid an ambiguous, erroneous, and inconvenient orthography, to assign to every character one certain sound, and thus represent with ease and exactness the true pronunciation of the Hawaiian language, the following five vowels and seven consonants have been adopted: a, e, i, o, u, h, k, I, m, n, p, w.”

“The power of the vowels may be thus represented: ‘a’, as ‘a’ in the English words art, father; ‘e’, as ‘a’ in pale, or ‘ey’ in they; ‘I’, as ‘ee’ or, in machine; ‘o’, as ‘o’ in no; ‘u’, as ‘oo’ in too. They are called so as to express their power by their names ‘ Ah, A, Ee, O, Oo.” (Bingham)

“The convenience of such an alphabet for the Hawaiian language, undisturbed by foreign words, is very obvious, because we can express with simplicity, ease, and certainty, those names and phrases with the sound of which former voyagers were utterly unable to make us acquainted by English orthography.”

“Though it were possible to spell them with our English alphabet it would still be inconvenient. A few names may illustrate the reasons for our new orthography.” (Bingham)

The Old.           Corrected in English.        The New, or Hawaiian.
Tamaahmaah    Kah-mā‘-hau-mā-hah       Ka me‘ ha-me‘ ha
Terreioboo        Kah-lah‘-nȳ-ō-poo‘-oo     Ka la’ ni o pu‘ u
Tamoree           Kah-oo‘-moo ah lee‘-ee    Ka u‘ rnu a Ii‘ i
Owhyhee          Hah-wȳe‘-ee                     Ha wai‘ i
Woahoo,          O-ah‘-hoo                         O a‘ hu
Attooi               Cow‘-eye‘                          Kau‘ ai‘
Hanaroorah     Hō-nō-loo‘-loo                  Ho no lu‘ lu

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Filed Under: General, Missionaries / Churches / Religious Buildings, Hawaiian Traditions, Prominent People Tagged With: Molokai, Maui, Island Names, Kauai, Lanai, Niihau, Nathaniel Portlock, George Vancouver, Lehua, Hawaii, Kaula, Hawaii Island, Captain Vancouver, Oahu, Hiram Bingham, Captain Cook

September 25, 2017 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Kōloa Landing

Hawaiians along the Kōloa shore were the first to see the white man in Hawaiʻi. It was in 1778, along Kauai’s South Shore, that Captain James Cook first traveled, landed and made “contact”, introducing Hawaiʻi to the rest of the world.

Cook named the archipelago the Sandwich Islands in honor of his patron, the First Lord of the Admiralty, the Earl of Sandwich. Cook’s crew first sighted the Hawaiian Islands in the dawn hours of January 18, 1778.

His two ships, the HMS Resolution and the HMS Discovery, were kept at bay by the weather until the next day when they approached Kauai’s southeast coast.

On the afternoon of January 19, native Hawaiians in canoes paddled out to meet Cook’s ships, and so began Hawai‘i’s contact with Westerners. The first Hawaiians to greet Cook were from the Kōloa shore.

The Hawaiians traded fish and sweet potatoes for pieces of iron and brass that were lowered down from Cook’s ships to the Hawaiians’ canoes. Cook continued to sail along the coast searching for a suitable anchorage.

His two ships remained offshore, but a few Hawaiians were allowed to come on board on the morning of January 20, before Cook continued on in search of a safe harbor.

As they stepped ashore for the first time, Cook and his men were greeted by hundreds of Hawaiians who offered gifts of pua‘a (pigs), and mai‘a (bananas) and kapa (tapa) barkcloth.

Cook went ashore at Waimea three times the next day, walking inland to where he saw Hawaiian hale (houses), heiau (sacred places of worship), and agricultural sites.

At the time, the region was thriving with many thatched homes as well as lo‘i kalo (taro patches) and various other food crops such as niu (coconuts) and ‘ulu (breadfruit).

After trading for provisions, gathering water and reading for sail, Cook left the island and continued his search of the “Northwest Passage,” an elusive (because it was non‐existent) route from the Pacific Ocean to the Atlantic Ocean.

From the time of contact, until the end of the century, ships called at Waimea nearly every year for water and provisions. For a time, it was the favored port of call on the island.

However, captains learned that the exposed anchorage at Waimea was dangerous with ‘kona’ winds came up ((south‐westerly, versus the typical north‐easterly tradewinds,) threatening to ground the moored ships.

Ultimately, it was this occasional weather pattern that caused the decline of Waimea as the favored port on the Island of Kauai and the rise of Kōloa Landing to take its place.

Goods and people were transferred by hand and small boat to ships in Hanakaʻape Bay. The cove is at the mouth of the Waikomo (entering water) Stream on Hanakaʻape (headstrong) Bay.

Between about 1810 and 1820, the major item of Hawaiian trade was sandalwood. King Kaumualiʻi held the sandalwood monopoly on Kauai and Niʻihau, Kōloa Landing served as a prominent port of export. Kamehameha I held the monopoly for the rest of the island chain.

Ships calling to Kōloa Landing steadily increased and by 1830 it became widely recognized as the major port on the island. Ships had the ability to maneuver in and out of the anchorage, whatever the wind direction.

Whalers, seeking water and food supplies, called at Kōloa Landing, the Island’s foremost port. Kōloa was a center for agriculture and, as such, became the center of activity for Kauai. The whaling industry was the mainstay of the islands’ economy for about 40 years.

Likewise, Kōloa Landing was situated near a source of good water, near crops grown in the Kōloa field system, close to salt beds and had an abundance of firewood and beef from mauka regions.

In the mid-1800s, Kōloa Landing was the third largest whaling port in all of Hawai‘i (behind Honolulu and Lāhainā) and the only port of entry for foreign goods.

The first commercially‐viable sugar plantation, Ladd and Co., was started at Kōloa on Kauai. On July 29, 1835, Ladd & Company obtained a 50‐year lease on nearly 1,000‐acres of land and established a plantation and mill site in Kōloa.

It was to change the face of Kauai (and Hawai‘i) forever, launching an entire economy, lifestyle and practice of mono-cropping that lasted for over a century. A tribute to this venture is found at the Kōloa Sugar Memorial in Old Kōloa Town,

Traveling salesmen, also known as drummers (‘drumming up business,’) who worked for large mercantile agencies on O‘ahu would arrive at Kōloa Landing after an often rugged ocean trip by steamer and rowboat.

The would take their samples to each plantation camp store and sometimes even fan out from house to house in outlying communities.

Kōloa Landing was the trans‐shipment point from which ships were off‐loaded with mercantile goods and livestock for Kauai, and where trade‐goods, fresh produce and livestock were loaded on ships from Kauai. It was also linked to Kōloa Town, two miles inland, by the purveyor’s cart path (Hapa Road.)

Shipping in and out of Koloa Landing increased until 1912 (up to 60 ships a year anchored there to stock provisions and take on passengers.) However, better facilities became available at Nāwiliwili and Port Allen.

The landing left and Hanakaʻape Bay is now a popular dive site, especially for SCUBA instruction. Further out is an offshore reef that provides several surf breaks that are quite popular with local surfers.

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Filed Under: Economy, General, Place Names Tagged With: Koloa Landing, Hanakaape Bay, Hawaii, Kauai

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