Images of Old Hawaiʻi

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Ho‘olehua Airport

When Emory Bronte and Ernest Smith made history on July 15, 1927 with the first successful trans-Pacific flight by civilians, there was no airport on Molokai.

They were expected to land at Wheeler Field on Oahu, but ran out of fuel over Molokai and crashed into kiawe trees on the southeast coast of Molokai.

Later that year, the Territorial Governor signed Executive Order No. 307 setting aside an area of 204.8 acres of Territorial land at Ho‘olehua, Molokai; the Territorial Legislature appropriated funds for an airport.

On December 15, 1927, what was then called Ho‘olehua Airport was placed under the control and management of the Territorial Aeronautical Commission. It was effectively a level grassy field that was marked and cleared so that take offs and landings could be made.

It was proposed to eventually fully-improve the field for all commercial and military purposes.  The field could be used by the large and heavy trans-Pacific land planes expected to pass through the Territory.

Inter-Island Airways inaugurated interisland air service from Honolulu to Molokai on November 11, 1929 in Sikorsky S-38 amphibians.  The fare was $17.50.

By the end of 1929, a small waiting room and telephone booth were added and a pole and windsock were erected. In 1930, it was renamed Molokai Airport.

The Army got interested in the airport in 1931 and by 1937 Molokai Airport consisted of three runways—1,000, 2,600 and 2,600 feet long, 300 feet wide with 100 feet of grading on each side.  The Army called it Homestead Field Military Reservation.

Molokai Airport was one of the principal airports of the Territory during the pre-war development of aviation in the Islands.   The Army maintained a radio station and Inter-Island Airways, Ltd. had a Station House at the field.

On December 7, 1941 the airport was taken over by the Army and Navy and the services remained in possession until 1947.  During this period the U.S. Army made extensive improvements (two paved runways, one 4,400 feet in length and the other 3,200 feet in length, each with a width of 200 feet; taxiways, plane parking areas and runway lighting.

By agreement with the Army, the Territory assumed responsibility for the operation and maintenance of the airport in 1947 under the management of the Hawaii Aeronautics Commission.

In addition to its peace-time function, the airport had continuing importance to the Army and Navy.  The extension of the North-South Runway was particularly important because the runway was not adequate for large aircraft except with restricted loading.

Location of this field was such that during heavy rains excess mud and water flowed onto the operating area, sometimes necessitating closing the field until an emergency crew was able to clean up.  A system of drainage ditches was designed and completed in September 1953 to alleviate this.

Hawaiian Airlines, Ltd. and Trans-Pacific Airlines, Ltd., provided scheduled service to Molokai, and Andrew Flying Service flew on a non-scheduled basis.

A new Molokai Airport Terminal was officially dedicated on June 15, 1957 with pioneer aviator Emory Bronte in attendance.

In the mid-1970s, there were preliminary planning for moving the site of Molokai Airport.  The engineering analysis to be used in the site selection for a new airport for Molokai continued.  Construction of new hotel facilities on Molokai accounted for the increase in passengers served at Molokai Airport. 

The site study for a new Molokai Airport was completed in 1978 with a recommendation that 500 to 600 acres of land be set aside in the northwest corner of the island.

The report recommended against immediate construction at the new site in view of the high cost for a new airport compared to the relatively low air traffic to Molokai.  The estimated cost was $25.8 million in 1978.

The report recommended continued improvements to the existing airport at Hoolehua until such time that traffic warranted the construction of the new airport.

A renovated passenger terminal and support facilities were dedicated on October 19, 1994. The 24,000 square foot terminal had an upgraded passenger waiting area, ticket lobby, air cargo handling facilities and tenant lease area.  (Information here is from Hawai‘i DOT Airports.)

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Volcano School

In early nineteenth-century France, Château de Fontainebleau, the Forest of Fontainebleau, became a sanctuary for the growing leisure classes, for whom a train ride from Paris was an easy jaunt.

Called “the branch-office of Italy”, the Forest of Fontainebleau spread across 42,000 acres of dense woods with meadows, marshes, gorges, and sandy clearings.  Quiet hamlets ringed the forest.

It was to one of those villages, Barbizon, that artists journeyed beginning in the 1820s, with a promise of room and board at the newly established inn Auberge Ganne. The Auberge provided lodging for these pioneering painters of nature came to be called the Barbizon School and they collectively shared a recognition of landscape as an independent subject. (Met Museum)

In America, the Hudson River School was America’s first true artistic fraternity. Its name was coined to identify a group of New York City-based landscape painters that emerged about 1850 under the influence of the English émigré Thomas Cole (1801–1848) and flourished until about the time of the Centennial.

Several of the artists built homes on the Hudson River.  The term “Hudson River School” in the 1870s fairly characterizes the artistic body, its New York headquarters, its landscape subject matter, and often literally its subject. (Met Museum)

In the Islands, there was the Volcano School.

The Volcano School was a generation of mostly non-native Hawaiian painters who portrayed Hawaiʻi Island’s volcanoes in dramatic fashion during the late 19th century. (NPS HAVO)

In the 1880s and 1890s, Mauna Loa kicked off an eruption that brought lava closer to the town of Hilo than ever before.  Hawai‘i residents and tourists alike flocked to the Big Island for a chance to see the orange and red glow over the city of Hilo.

This was in the days before color photography – painters were among the most eager to witness and recreate the explosive lava plumes and vibrant flows. (HuffPost)

A distinctive and recognizable school of Hawaiian painting developed; it is perhaps best exemplified by Jules Tavernier’s depictions of craters and eruptions. Other artists, fresh from exposure to the current trends in Europe and America, reinterpreted the lush light and varied landscape of Hawai‘i to create a distinctive body of work.

With the dawning of the twentieth century, art in Hawai‘i reflected the diminishing isolation of the islands and the emergence of a multicultural modernist tradition. (Forbes)

Author and humorist Mark Twain, on assignment for the Sacramento Daily Union, described seeing Kīlauea at night: “…the vast floor of the desert under us was as black as ink, and apparently smooth and level …”

“… but over a mile square of it was ringed and streaked and striped with a thousand branching streams of liquid and gorgeously brilliant fire! Imagine it— imagine a coal-black sky shivered into a tangled network of angry fire!”

Kīlauea was such a popular subject for painters that a group emerged called “the Volcano School,” which included well-known Hawai‘i painters Charles Furneaux, Joseph Dwight Strong, and D. Howard Hitchcock.

Jules Tavernier (French 1844–1889) was arguably the most important Volcano School painter; he arrived in Hawai‘i in December of 1884. He created paintings that came to characterize the genre with dramatic scenes of molten lava bubbling under diffused moonlight, jagged black cliffs, and fiery glows, as seen in his nocturnal view of Kīlauea.  (HoMA)

Tavernier had lived in San Francisco with roommate Joseph Dwight Strong.  In October 1882 Joseph Dwight Strong, born in Connecticut and at age two came to the Islands with his New England missionary father (American 1852–1899), returned to the Islands with his wife Isobel on a commission to paint landscapes for shipping magnate John D Spreckels, son of the Sugar King Claus Spreckels. (Theroux) (Strong’s step-father-in-law was Robert Louis Stevenson.)

David Howard Hitchcock, grandson of American missionaries (American 1861–1943), is perhaps one of the most important and loved artists from Hawaiʻi. Although born and raised in Hawaiʻi, he left the islands to study art in San Francisco and Paris.

Before his formal training abroad, Hitchcock was inspired by other Volcano School painters and was encouraged by Jules Tavernier to endeavor life as an artist. Hitchcock admits to following Tavernier and Joseph Strong around, ‘like a parasite.’  (NPS HAVO)

“Hitchcock was early hailed as ‘our island painter’ and his early canvases met an enthusiastic reception in Hilo and Honolulu. The Honolulu press commented on them at length. His early work, up to his European trip in 1890, shows great indebtedness to (Jules) Tavernier…” (Forbes)

Charles Furneaux (American 1835–1913), showcased the fiery Hawai‘i volcano scenes that have intrigued viewers since he began painting them in the late 19th century.  Furneaux’s paintings are described as “among the most sublime depictions of smoldering lava pools, lightning bolts over the ocean, steaming vents and heavy clouds signaling the active presence of the volcano.” (HoMA)

Painter and printmaker Ambrose McCarthy Patterson (Australian 1877–1966) arrived in Hawai‘i on a stopover in 1916 and remained for the next 18 months. Patterson was described as having particular interest in Kīlauea, incorporating the subject into many of the paintings and block prints he produced during his time here. (HoMA)

Other Volcano School artists include Ernst William Christmas (Australian 1863–1918), Constance Frederica Gordon-Cumming (Scottish 1837–1924), Ogura Yonesuke Itoh (Japanese 1870–1940), Titian Ramsey Peale (American 1799–1885), Louis Pohl (American 1915–1999), Eduardo Lefebvre Scovell (British 1864–1918), William Pinkney Toler (American 1826–1899), William Twigg-Smith (New Zealander 1883–1950) and Lionel Walden (American 1861–1933).

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by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Kaluaokau

Kaluaokau, an ʻili in Waikīkī, has been interpreted with several possible meanings.  Henry Kekahuna, a Hawaiian ethnologist, pronounced Kaluaokau as ka-lu‘a-o-ka‘u, which translates as “the grave of Ka‘u” (lu‘a means “heap, pile or grave.”)

The term Kaluaokau can also be divided as ka-lua-o-Kau, which literally translates as ka (the) lua (pit) o (of) Kau (a personal name), or “the pit of Kau.”  There are others.

Whatever the purpose of the prior naming and its meaning, this portion of Waikīkī (including Helumoa, Kaluaokau and adjacent ‘ili) was important in the lives of the Hawaiian Ali’i.

The ‘ili of Kaluaokau was eventually granted to William Lunalilo (the first democratically elected King, who defeated Kalākaua in 1873.)

The first structure on the property was a simple grass hut; Lunalilo later built and referred to his Waikīkī home as the “Marine Residence;” it consisted of a residence, a detached cottage and outbuildings, surrounded by a fence. The estate included a small section that extended makai to the sea and included several small outbuildings and a canoe shed.

Following Lunalilo’s death in 1874, his Kaluaokau home and land were bequeathed to Queen Emma, the widow of Kamehameha IV (Alexander Liholiho – who had died in 1863.)

Queen Emma had Papaʻenaʻena Heiau on the slopes of Diamond Head dismantled, and she used the rocks to build a fence to surround her Waikīkī estate.

Later litigation confirmed that the Queen Emma parcel included access to the water (ʻĀpuakēhau Stream) and the taro growing on the ‘Marine Residence” property.  Queen Emma is known to have resided occasionally on the Waikīkī property before her death.

Her will stated that her lands be put in trust with the proceeds to benefit the Queen’s Hospital in Honolulu, which Queen Emma, along with her husband, Kamehameha IV, had helped to found.

Records indicate Henry Macfarlane, an entrepreneur from New Zealand who had settled on O‘ahu owned and/or leased property within the Kaluaokau ʻili.

Reportedly, it was Macfarlane and his wife who planted the banyan tree currently growing in the center of the property. They lived on this property for a while, eventually raising six children, some of who became financiers for sugar plantations and for the early tourist industry in Waikīkī.

The site was also used by immigrant Japanese workers.  During the construction of hotels (Moana Hotel, Royal Hawaiian Hotel) in the early twentieth century (and later the Surfrider in 1952) by the Matson Navigation Company, cottages were built for housing the mostly Japanese immigrant workers and their families, and called “Japanese Camps.”  More buildings were built.

By the mid-1950s, there were more than fifty hotels and apartments from the Kālia area to the Diamond Head end of Kapiʻolani Park. The Waikīkī population by the mid-1950s was not limited to transient tourists; it included 11,000 permanent residents, living in 4,000 single dwellings and apartment buildings.

On January 16, 1955, entrepreneur Donn Beach (Don the Beachcomber) announced plans for a “Waikīkī Village” that was to be called “The International Market Place.”

The International Market Place first opened in 1957. Envisioned as a commercial center with the Dagger Bar and Bazaar Buildings, and featuring the arts, crafts, entertainment and foods of Hawaiʻi’s multicultural people, it may have been one of the earliest cultural tourist attractions in the Islands.

Designed originally to encompass 14-acres between the Waikīkī Theater and the Princess Kaʻiulani Hotel, extending from Kalākaua Avenue halfway to Kūhiō Avenue, the International Market Place was to be a “casual, tropical village with arts, crafts, entertainment, and foods of Hawai‘i’s truly diverse people … including Hawaiian, South Sea islander, Japanese, Chinese, Indian, and Filipino…” (Queen Emma Foundation)

By the late-1950s, a row of retail shops had been constructed along Kalākaua Avenue.  Other elements of the International Market Place included the Hawaiian Halau, Japanese Tea House and Esplanade buildings. The banyan tree, which still remains to this day, was also once home to Don’s tree house.

Matson sold all of its Waikīkī hotel properties to the Sheraton Company in 1959 and no longer required housing for its hotel staff. Additionally, properties were likely cleared in anticipation of the extensive development that occurred throughout Waikīkī in the 1960s and 1970s.

In 1964, Waikīkī’s entertainment hub was International Market Place; and it’s where the first Crazy Shirts shop was born (initially known as Ricky’s Crazy Shirts.) T-shirts with a message sold. Some were silly (“Suck ’em Up!”), some were logos (“Surfboards Hawaii”), and some were political (“Draft Beer Not Students”). (Crazy Shirts)

The famous Duke Kahanamoku’s (Duke’s,) where Don Ho gained fame, was once housed there. Don the Beachcomber, one of Waikīkī’s long-gone landmark restaurants, as well as Trader Vic’s also called it home.

Hawaiʻi radio icon, Hal Lewis (the self-named “J Akuhead Pupule,” best known to Island radio listeners as “Aku,”) once broadcast his popular morning talk show from the tree house in the Banyan tree.

However, over the last half-century, as the rest of Waikīkī evolved, the Market Place kept its 1960s look, as visitors wind through the carts and kiosks, hawking T-shirts, plastic hula skirts, volcano-shaped candles, and other tiki and tacky souvenirs.

Landowner Queen Emma Foundation changed that. Working with the Taubman Company, the International Market Place, Waikīkī Town Center and Miramar Hotel were demolished, and new structures took their place.

Aiming to restore “a sense of Hawaiianness,” the new International Market Place features low-rise structures, open-air shops and restaurants, paths, gardens, a storytelling hearth, a performance amphitheater and, yes, parking. And the banyan tree stays.

Today, as successor to The Queen’s Hospital, The Queen’s Medical Center is the largest private nonprofit hospital in Hawaiʻi, licensed to operate with 505 acute care beds and 28 sub-acute beds. As the leading medical referral center in the Pacific Basin, Queen’s has more than 3,500 employees and over 1,100 physicians on staff.

The royal mission and vision of The Queen’s Health Systems is directly supported through revenues generated by the lands bequeathed by Queen Emma when she passed away in 1885, including the International Market Place.

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

South Kona Colony

Sanford Dole was appointed as Hawai‘i’s first territorial governor, and his annual reports to the US Secretary of the Interior unfailingly emphasized his administration’s objective of settling Hawaii’s public land with family farmers.

According to a report by the Hawai‘i Legislative Reference Bureau, perhaps the most pressing and complicated task confronting Dole as Hawai‘i’s chief executive was a re-examination of public land policy, since the prosperity and continued development of the Islands’ agricultural economy depended decisively on the land laws.

Land policy in all its aspects was of long-standing interest to Dole. As early as 1872, he had argued that Hawaii’s future depended upon attracting immigrants able to resettle Hawaii’s land in the familiar, American pattern of family farming, rather than through development of enormous plantations worked by alien field gangs. Dole’s political-economic objective in Hawaii was the development of a resident yeomanry.

Settlement guided by these objectives, buttressed by other aspects of Jeffersonian agricultural fundamentalism, could, he contended, ultimately make Hawaii’s land productive and valuable.

“Homesteads will be incalculably more profitable to the country than a like area in grazing and wood-cutting lease-holds.”

Dole thereby pointed to the important relationship between public land policy and Hawaii’s critical problem of population, or, more specifically, underpopulation.

“With the present rapid decadence of the population we are in a fair way of learning the very important truth that land without people on it is really worthless; that the value of the land depends simply on there being somebody to collect its produce … upon the premises, …”

“… therefore, that if our islands are ever to be peopled to their full capacity, it must be brought about through the settlement of their lands; … homesteads, rather than field-gangs, are to be the basis of our future social and civil progress, and a careful study of our land policy becomes necessary to the formation of any practical plan for effecting this result.”

The US Congress also weighed in with changes in Hawaii’s public land laws that encouraged family farming much like the pattern established on the American mainland.

To further this objective, the Organic Act also made mandatory the opening up of land for family farm settlement whenever twenty-five or more persons eligible for homesteads presented a written application to the land commissioner.

This objective was apparently shared by Dole’s land commissioner, Edward S Boyd, who concluded the published report of his department’s work in 1903 with the promise that …

… “this office will use its best endeavors in every way possible to settle our public lands with desirable settlers, and will encourage by literature and otherwise the migration of American farmers”.  (LRB)

Then, a headline and story ran in the Pacific Commercial Advertiser, “California Ranchers Get Kona Land – Half a Dozen Families Will Settle on Island of Hawaii Men Have Taken Up Five Thousand Acres of Grazing Land.”

“A colony, second only to the Wahiawa farmers, is one of the first results of the campaign for settler, which Land Commissioner Boyd started a few months ago, after the receipt of a flood of letters from mainland people, who had read of the public lands offered for settlement in Hawaii.”

“The new colony is to be started in South Kona near Franz Bucholtz’ famous farm and will mean an increase in the population of the Territory of at least twenty-five souls.”

“The new colonists are ranchers and the men at the head of them have sufficient money to stock the place with fine cattle.”

“Six men have been promised by the government, tracts of grazing land of from 900 to 1200 acres each in the South Kona district, and they have returned to the mainland with the intention of bringing their families from California immediately, and such other settlers as might wish to come.”

“The six men are AH Johnson and his two grown sons, Alfred Johnson and Andrew Johnson; Ulysses Waldrip, WH Hollill and Frank Bolander.”

“They come originally from Texas where they had engaged in ranching, but went a few years ago to Southern California to engage in farming. The men have their homes in the vicinity of San Diego and Los Angeles, where each of them has a family.  Altogether the members of the colony will number twenty-five or thirty.”

“The upper lands of Opihihali and Olelomoana in South Kona [near Papa], have been set apart by Land Commissioner Boyd for the perspective settlers and they have each taken up a section of from 900 to 1200 acres.”

“The land is about one half mile from the Bucholtz place and the splendid appearance of the famous farm of Mr Bucholtz was one of the principal reasons why the California men chose the land they did. Previously they visited Pupukea lands on this island [Oahu], but were not satisfied with them and they were then sent to South Kona by Mr Boyd.”

“The appearance of the Bucholtz place and the possibilities of the land in that vicinity as demonstrated by him decided the California men in taking the tract.  Altogether about 5000 acres have been allotted to them, with the usual restrictions as to forest reservation.”

“It is the intention of the six settlers to return to Honolulu immediately with their families.  Their purpose is to start a ranch on a large scale and they will probably import blooded stock for this purpose.  All the men are competent ranchmen and they are said to have sufficient funds to make their undertaking a success.”

“The land allotted to the settlers will be purchased by them under the right to purchase lease.  This simply requires the payment of a small proportion upon the taking up of the land, and eight per cent of the value as an annual rental.”

“Land commissioner Boyd stated yesterday that the Kona tract was classed as grazing land and the average price would not exceed two dollars per acre.”  (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, October 20, 1903)

What was disheartening to the proponents of family farming was the surprisingly limited use of the congressional provision for groups of twenty-five or more prospective farmers to form “settlement associations”.

It was anticipated that members of the settlement associations would be able to cooperate in the formidable tasks of clearing land, planting, road building, and marketing, and thus would be able to overcome the myriad problems that had generally forced isolated homesteaders to abandon the struggle.

It was anticipated, too, that the united membership of a prospective settlement association would be in a stronger position to make more effective demands on the land commissioner for good land than solitary homesteaders applying for land under other provisions of the law.

This expectation was partly fulfilled, and some rather good land was made available in Wahiawa as well as the Pupukea-Paumalu area on Oahu, and in the Kinaha-Pauwela-Kaupakulua section of Maui.

The Wahiawa settlement area proved to be well suited for the cultivation of pineapple and other cash crops, yet even this isolated instance of successful homesteading was of rather short duration, for the settlers’ land was subsequently incorporated into the operations of an enormous pineapple plantation. (LRB)

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Kūkaemoku

Maui is the second largest of the Hawaiian Islands, and covers about 730 square miles.  Maui consists of two separate volcanoes with a combining isthmus between the two.

The Mauna Kahālāwai (West Maui Mountain) is probably the older of the two; Haleakala (East Maui) was last active about 1790, whereas activity on West Maui is wholly pre-historic.

The West Maui Mountain’s highest peak, Puʻu Kukui, towers 5,788-feet; it is one of the wettest spots on earth (average yearly rainfall at the rain gage since 1928 is about 364-inches.)  The rain carved out valleys on either side, one of these, ʻĪao Valley (“cloud supreme,”) has a narrow entrance facing toward Wailuku that opens into a much larger expanse in the back.

For centuries, high chiefs and navigators from across the archipelago were buried in secret, difficult-to-access sites in the valley’s steep walls.

ʻĪao valley in the West Maui Mountain is the first place mentioned in the historical legends as a place for the secret burial of high chiefs. Kapawa, the ruling chief of Hawaiʻi about 25-30 generations ago, was overthrown by his people, assisted, perhaps, by Pāʻao.  (Westervelt)

His body was said to have been taken to ʻĪao and concealed in one of the caves of that picturesque extinct crater. From that time apparently this valley became a “hallowed burying place for ancient chiefs.”  (Westervelt)

For centuries, aliʻi (chiefs) were laid to rest in secret burial sites along the valley’s steep walls. The practice of burying aliʻi in the valley began in the eighth century and reportedly continued until 1736, with the burial of King Kekaulike.

Commoners were not permitted into ʻĪao, except during the annual Makahiki festival, which was held on the grassy plateau above the Needle.

Then, in the late-1780s into 1790, Kamehameha conquered the Island of Hawai‘i and was pursuing conquest of Maui and eventually sought to conquer the rest of the archipelago.  At that time, Maui’s King Kahekili and his eldest son and heir-apparent, Kalanikūpule, were carrying on war and conquered O‘ahu.

In 1790, Kamehameha travelled to Maui.  Hearing this, Kahekili sent Kalanikūpule back to Maui with a number of chiefs (Kahekili remained on O‘ahu to maintain order of his newly conquered kingdom.)

“Kamehameha marched overland to Hāna. His army is said to have contained 16,000 men. Nelson’s famous exhortation to his men at Trafalgar (1805) fifteen years later was:

“England expects every man this day to do his duty,” but Kamehameha’s command to his battle-scarred veterans was: “Imua e nā pōkiʻi a inu i ka wai ʻawaʻawa” (Onward brothers until you taste the bitter waters of battle.)”   (Mid-Pacific Magazine, January 1912)

After a battle in Hāna, Kamehameha landed at Kahului and then marched on to Wailuku, where Kalanikūpule waited for him.  The ensuing battle was one of the hardest contested on Hawaiian record.  The battle started in Wailuku and then headed up ‘l̄ao Valley – the Maui defenders being continually driven farther up the valley.

Kamehameha ordered his army to advance, the Maui army met the invaders, but the Maui defenders were so powerless in the face of musketry that they retreated up the valley with the Kamehameha army following them.

Kamehameha’s superiority in the number and use of the newly acquired weapons and canon (called Lopaka) from the ‘Fair American’ (used for the first time in battle, with the assistance from John Young and Isaac Davis) finally won the decisive battle at ‘Īao Valley.

The Maui troops were completely annihilated, and it is said that the corpses of the slain were so many as to choke up the waters of the stream of ‘l̄ao – one of the names of the battle was “Kepaniwai” (the damming of the waters.)  Kalanikūpule fled.

Kamehameha left for Moloka‘i to secure it under his control, and there received Keōpūolani as his wife.  Then, in 1795, Kamehameha moved on in his conquest of O‘ahu, meeting and defeating Kalanikūpule, at Nuʻuanu.

Visiting Wyoming Senator Clark once declared ʻĪao Valley to be the Yosemite of Hawaiʻi. “These words of adulation were not inspired by momentary flattery, for many others who have feasted their eyes on that famous place, thousands of miles away, were also of the same opinion.”    (Mid-Pacific Magazine, January 1912)

“In order to properly understand the significance of the Yosemite Valley or any of the well-traveled picturesque places of the mainland, there is always some historical fact attached to give added interest.”

“We all know that the Yosemite is named after an enormous grizzly bear who made his last stand against the Indians in the fastnesses about the celebrated falls. And so it is in Hawaiʻi, nearly every one of the beautiful and sometimes overpowering pieces of scenery is associated with some historical fact that gives food for thought.“ (Overland Monthly, July 1909)

A hundred years ago, visitors had the opportunity to travel to the back of the ʻĪao, “After leaving the needle, the traveler crosses the stream, and up the narrow, winding path leading to the plateau several hundred feet above. This table land is called Kaalaholo. Around its entire base gently flows streams of pure, crystal-like, mountain water.”

“When the top is reached the visitor views a scene so grand, inspiring and majestic that its equal cannot be found within the bounds of the Hawaiian Islands. It is beautiful beyond comparison.”

“Imagine oneself standing at the bottom of a huge basin four miles wide and about five miles long, and looking up with awe at the crest of the Iao mountains above, rising to a height of five thousand feet. The circumference of the ridges which encompass Iao Canyons is about twenty miles.”

“They rise up perpendicular all around and are inaccessible except in a few places. And from the summits of these tall, lofty precipices, called “Palilele-o-Koae,” or the home of the seabirds, play myriads of tiny waterfalls in mid-air, which as they reach the bottom, form part of the mighty stream.”    (Mid-Pacific Magazine, January 1912)

From the present viewing area within the State Monument at ʻĪao (and in all the photos showing the valley,) you can see Kūkaʻemoku (more commonly called ‘Iao Needle.)  From this perspective, Kūkaʻemoku appears to stick up from the valley floor like a ‘needle,’ thus its modern name.

Actually, what people see is a bump on a side-ridge on the right-side of ʻIao Valley with a large protrusion that sticks up on top; it stands about 1,200-feet tall.  It looks like a ‘needle’ of rock, but really isn’t (it’s part of the ridge.)

The Valley and volcanic rocks within it were selected to serve as a National Natural Landmark (1972.)  It also serves as a Hawaiʻi Monument operated under DLNR’s State Parks system.  It is at the end of ‘Īao Valley Road (Highway 32.)  

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