Images of Old Hawaiʻi

by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Water Crisis

Neglect of the islands’ forests would be “suicidal,” for “everything fails with the failure of our water supply”. (Lyon; DLNR)

“Not enough rain and not enough water in the streams are great evils”.

“It appears to me to be unnecessary to again go deeply into the theory of the relation between forests and rainfall when all intelligent and observing people admit that the decrease or increase of rainfall goes pari passu (‘hand-in-hand’) with the decrease or increase of the forests.”

“The forest, which not only produces rain, but also retains the rainwater, holding it among its leaves and branches, its undergrowth, its myriads of roots and rootlets and its fallen debris, letting the rainwater trickle down slowly to the water streams and keeping them supplied for a long time”.

“(T)hat forest is not there. Rain pours down, the water rushes in torrents through the streams to the sea and soon after everything is dry again.” (Gjerdrum to HSPA, 1897)

Prior to 1820 all of Honolulu’s domestic drinking water was obtained from natural springs and the small river that runs through Nuʻuanu Valley.

Honolulu with its deep water port, abundant natural resources and friendly people soon became a favorite way station for whalers and traders crossing the Pacific Ocean.

The requirements of supplying these ships caused a waterfront storage tank to be installed at the lower end of Nuʻuanu Street. The water for that tank came from a taro patch on Emma Street.

The demand for drinking water from various springs and the Nuʻuanu Stream spurred the development of a public water supply distribution system that, upon its completion in 1862 provided water to the residents and businesses in downtown Honolulu. (DLNR)

“The water is pure, sweet, cool, clear as crystal, and comes from a spring in the mountains, and is distributed all over the town through leaden pipes.”

“You can find a hydrant spiriting away at the bases of three or four trees in a single yard, sometimes, so plenty and cheap is this excellent water. Only twenty-four dollars a year supplies a whole household with a limitless quantity of it.” (Twain, April 20, 1866

However, there was concern about the diminishing forests … and, with it, a crisis in the availability of water.

By the 1830s, forested lands in the Islands were in decline. The sandalwood trade had reduced sandalwood populations to such an extent that in 1839, Hawaii’s first forestry law restricted the harvest of sandalwood.

Cattle (which had been introduced in the late-1700s) continued to cause widespread destruction of native forests. (Idol) For many years, cattle were allowed an unrestricted range in the forests so that in many sections the forest is either dead or dying. (Griffith)

The almost total destruction of the undergrowth has allowed the soil to bake and harden thus causing the rainfall to run off rapidly with the resultant effect of very low water during the dry season. (Griffith)

“We are in trouble because we have no firewood and no la‘i (ti leaf,) and no timber for houses, it is said in the law that those who are living on the land can secure the things above stated, this is all right for those living on the lands which have forests, but, we who live on lands which have no forests, we are in trouble.”

“The children are eating raw potato because of no firewood, the mouths of the children are swollen from having eaten raw taro. We have been in trouble for three months, the Konohikis with wooded lands here in Kaneohe have absolutely withheld the firewood and la‘i and the timber for houses.” (Letter from Hio et al to House of Representatives, 1851; Hulili, Ulukau)

It reached a maximum by the late-1800s/early-twentieth century owing to burning of the forests to locate the sandalwood trees, demand for firewood, commercial logging operations, conversion to agricultural and pastureland, the effects of grazing and browsing ungulates (including cattle, goats, and pigs) and increased fire frequency. (Woodcock)

The sugar industry, still concerned about water shortages due to forest decline, sought and succeeded in establishing the forest reserve system, which instituted partnerships between public and private landowners to protect forests.

Due to the cooperation between public and private landowners, and another tax break for conservation of forests on private land in 1909, large scale reforestation, fencing and feral ungulate eradication efforts occurred across the islands.

The forests were transformed during this time, as millions of fast-growing nonnative trees were planted throughout the islands to quickly re-establish watersheds denuded by logging and ungulates.

Impending crisis also led to the development of groundwater wells (today’s primary source of drinking water in the Islands.) The McCandless brothers started drilling the first artesian well in the Hawaiian Islands in the rear of the James Campbell Ranch House at Honouliuli, Ewa District, on the flat land close to the sea.

“Mr. Wilder (then-Minister of the Interior under King Kalakaua) helped us in securing contracts for five wells, to be drilled for His Majesty, King Kalakaua: one in the Palace grounds, one at his home in Waikiki, and three others located on his properties in the outside districts.”

Over the next 55-years, McCandless Brothers drilled more than 700 good wells across the Islands. Their wells helped support and water the growing and expansive sugar and pineapple plantations including ʻEwa, Kahuku, Oʻahu, Waialua and other large producers, and also on the Islands of Maui, Hawaiʻi, Kauai and Molokai.

We are fortunate that 100-years ago (April 25, 1903) some forward thinkers had the good sense to set aside Hawai‘i’s forested lands and protected our forest watersheds under the State’s forest reserve system.

While I was at DLNR, we oversaw nearly 1-million acres of mauka watershed. Healthy forests are a goal for all of us in Hawai‘i, it’s as much about fresh water, erosion control, protected reefs and economic opportunities as it is about trees. (I am proud and honored to have served on the Board of Directors of the Hawai‘i Forest Institute.)

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by Peter T Young 4 Comments

Elmer Ellsworth Conant

“At five-thirty o’clock in the morning of June 20, 1923, (EE Conant,) manager of a Molokai ranch, walked into the garage at his home in Kaunakakai, entered his automobile, and stepped on the starter. The engine failed to turn over.”

“As he swung open the door to step out and investigate, a shattering roar shook the village. Townspeople flocking to the scene found roof and walls torn and twisted, top and hood of the car hurled into the yard, and fragments of steel imbedded in walls fifty feet away. “

“Conant, blackened and mangled, lay dead. A crumpled bit of steel had pierced his heart. “

“The method of murder had been simple. Dynamite had been concealed under the car and attached to the steering post. One end of the wire from the electric starter had been disconnected and joined to the steering post so as to cause a spark, igniting the fuse which detonated the bomb.” (Gessler, 1937)

Some suggest the killing related to water, the day before he died, Conant had finished the 6-million gallon Kawela Intake water system, moving water to West Molokai, 20-miles away; others suggest it related to the suspension of open deer hunting on the ranch.

Further investigation of Conant’s death failed to develop anything but a mass of conflicting rumors, and the case was dropped. The matter remains unsolved.

Elmer Ellsworth Conant (son of John Munson Conant and Sophia Lyon) was born March 27, 1860 in Syracuse, New York. He married Surreney Ann Kananiopuna Neal on June 16, 1883 in Koloa, Kauai, daughter of John Daniel Neal and Haliete Pahukoaonalii Nakapaahu. They had 8-children:

Robert Wayne Kapuaʻalaonaona Conant b: 25 May 1884; John Neal Kaleaaloha Kukele Conant b: 30 Jun 1886; Ellsworth Thomas Kailipoloahilani Conant b: 12 Feb 1888; Lena Annett Kaualani Nawaiwawae Conant b: 22 Feb 1889; Elmer William Nahinu Conant b: May 1891; Nellie Kahululani Pahapuokalani Conant b: 30 Jun 1893; Fred Blakeslee Ku’uhaealoha Kukapu Conant b: 17 Nov 1895 and Raymond Kueilipoilani Conant b: 25 Jun 1901.

In 1892, Conant was noted as manager and bookkeeper of Waimea Sugar Mill Company. In 1899, the ʻEleʻele Plantation, McBryde Estate and Koloa Agricultural Company merged to create the McBryde Sugar Company.

Conant was its first Manager. He also was Postmaster (the post office was at the McBryde plantation office,) as well as tax assessor and collector.

Under a guardian dispute at Parker Ranch, for a while (about 1904-1906,) Conant was receiver of the Parker Ranch estate. “Judge Mathewman has appointed EE Conant as receiver, during the pendency of the petition for a petition of the property. Conant in the capacity of receiver, is now the manager of the Parker ranch”. (Hawaiian Star, June 27, 1904)

But he seemed to focus on sugar. Hans Peter Faye, of Kekaha, Kauai, whose properties there were leased from the government and were subject to withdrawal for homestead purposes, submitted a proposal to the Molokai Ranch Directors to lease land on Molokai for a sugar plantation. The Directors accepted his proposal.

Faye engaged the services of Conant to develop water for the plantation. It was decided by the Directors that Molokai Ranch would not only lease the land but would pay for the expense of the water development and Mr. Conant’s salary.

For the next three years, 1919 to 1921 inclusive, Conant prospected for well-water at various sites, beginning at Palaʻau and progressing eastward.

The water at Palaʻau had a salt content of ninety grains. At Kaunakakai the water held about fifty grains; at Onini thirty; at Kanoa twenty-two and at Kawela about two grains. Mr. Conant developed a total of six million gallons, containing twenty-eight grains of salt, suitable for irrigating sugar cane. (Cooke)

At about that time, James Munro, manager of the Molokai Ranch, resigned and Conant was appointed acting manager of the ranch.

The next year, Conant was killed in his garage at Kaunakakai and died in his wife’s arms. His son, Fred B Conant, was promoted to be assistant manager in charge of the cattle department. (Cooke)

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by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Hawaiian Room

“(I)f you are really lucky … If you are one of those of whom refreshing and enchanting things sometimes happen. You will have wandered into the Hawaiian Room at the Lexington …” (Tucker, Man About Manhattan, June 14, 1938)

The Hotel Lexington (on Lexington Avenue and 48th Street, New York City) was completed just six months before the market crash of 1929.

The iconic hotel became an instant favorite for global leaders, celebrities, business executives and some of America’s most famous sports icons including Joe DiMaggio, who famously lived in a penthouse suite during his whole career playing for the Yankees. (Lexington)

However, in the basement, hotel management realized they were stuck with a large and useless lower dining room. In 1932, they opened the SilveL Grill, featuring bandleaders Ozzie Nelson, Little Jack Little, Artie Shaw and Carl Ravel.

Popularity waned, and hotel owners were in need of a show that would attract wealthy society members and keep the hotel in the black. The manager decided to experiment for a few months with all-Hawaiian entertainment in a cafe decorated with South Sea motifs and featuring Polynesian food.

At the time, Hawaiian and Polynesian cultures were growing in popularity and interest across the country. However, the creation of the Hawaiian Room was still a bold move not only because of the Great Depression, but also an increasingly complicated global scene as world conflicts were escalating in both Asia and Europe. (Akaka)

On June 23, 1937, the Hawaiian Room opened in the Hotel Lexington, the first major showroom for live Hawaiian entertainment in the US and the one that became the most renowned.

The Room itself was the first of its kind and featured a glamorous dining room with island decor, large dance floor and American orchestra, and a Hawaiian music and floor show that was unmatched in its professionalism, elegance and beauty.

It was New York after all – the land of Broadway shows, fast-paced lifestyles, ethnic diversity and celebrities. (Hula Preservation Society)

The initial band, named “Andy Iona and His Twelve Hawaiians,” included Andy Iona (born Andrew Aiona Long,) composer-singer Lani McIntire and Ray Kinney as featured singer.

Kinney assembled the dance troupe in Honolulu: the solo dancer Meymo Ululani Holt, plus Pualani Mossman, Mapuana Bishaw and Jennie Napua Woodd – they became known as the “Aloha Maids” – they became the faces of Hawai‘i in New York.

While numerous American showrooms featured live Hawaiian entertainment, the Hawaiian Room served as the industry standard to beat. In many cases, performers in other American showrooms appeared at the Hawaiian Room sometime during their careers.

A few other notable entertainers who helped “make” the Room over the years include Alfred Apaka, Aggie Auld, Keola Beamer, Eddie Bush, Johnny Coco, Leilani DaSilva, Ehulani Enoka, Leila Guerrero, Meymo Holt, Keokeokalae Hughes, Clara Inter “Hilo Hattie,” Alvin Isaacs, Momi Kai, George Kainapau, Sonny Kalolo, David Kaonohi, Nani Kaonohi, Kui Lee, Sam & Betty Makia, Tootsie Notley, Lehua Paulson, Telana Peltier, Luana Poepoe and Dennie Regore. (Akaka)

The venue became “the place to be” for celebrities in New York City, and it was the people who worked in the Hawaiian Room who made it such a success. Because of their talents, island ways and authentic aloha many were able to enjoy a piece of Hawaiʻi, even if they were on another “island” 5,000 miles away. (Akaka)

The Hawaiian Room was a place where dancers could establish viable careers. In the Islands, career options were limited. Hula dancers could earn between $50 and $100 a week, compared with $4 to $10 a week in the pineapple canneries.

For many Hawaiian women, hula presented a dream ticket out of Hawai‘i, promising fame, glamour and middle-class status difficult for them to achieve in the plantation and service industries. (Imada)

They became minor celebrities as performers in what was referred to in New York papers as an “off-Broadway show not to be missed.”

Big-time celebrities like Arthur Godfrey and Steve Allen sought out the Hawaiian Room entertainers to be on their television shows. The Hawaiian Room dancers were featured on the very first broadcast of color television in the United States. (Hula Preservation Society)

“They say (dancer, Pualani Mossman) is the most photographed girl in the Islands …” She became known as the “Matson Girl” for her pictures in Time and Life magazines.

Although the Hawaiian Room was in New York, it played an ever important role in the spread of Hawaiian culture across the continental United States, as well as the development of Hawaii’s major industry … tourism.

The nightly exposure of business executives, celebrities and New York’s working men and women to the Hawaiian songs, sceneries and hula at Hotel Lexington was sure to have put dreams of a Hawaiʻi vacation in the minds of more than a few over the years. (Akaka)

Over the course of its 30-years, millions of people from all over the world experienced the Hawaiian Room, its melding of Hawaiian music and hula traditions with current American musical trends, and its people of aloha. (Hula Preservation Society)

In 1966, a hula dancer at another venue was seriously injured when her grass skirt caught on fire. That prompted new federal workplace fire laws. (KITV) The Hawaiian Room closed that year because the needed fireproofing renovations were too expensive. (honolulu)

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Queen of the Silver Strand

Everybody loves the circus …

Howard R Valentine “was 17 when he went to Ringling Brothers Circus as a member of the famous 16-man Jackson family.  After a year with Ringling a partner act called Valentine and Dooly began a six-month tour of South and Central America. The pair played Panama during construction of the Panama Canal.”

“When the partnership dissolved, Valentine returned to the United States to marry Rae Bell another member of the Jackson family.” (SB, May 23, 1956) “The little lady is unusually attractive while the expert cyclist is a wizard as an equilibrist.” (Montgomery Adv, Jan 30, 1920)

“Valentine and Bell became a hit as a bicycle comedy and in 1911 played Hammerstein’s Victoria Theatre in New York – at that time tops in billing.”  (SB, May 23, 1956)

“No well balanced vaudeville bill would be complete without a big laugh act. This is provided in those comedy cyclists, Valentine and Bell. … Incidentally, it is remarkably clever and unusual bicycle riding.”

“Their act is a novelty and their string of stunts a long and daring one, But laughter is the main thing that was considered by these artists.  They will please you.” (Portland Telegram, March 21, 1915)

Travelling across the country. the Valentine and Bell “comedy … trick bicycle riders” act included “a comedy cycling oddity called the ‘Furniture Removers’”. (Louisville Courier-Journal, Jan 4 & 6, 1920)

A “unique feat which was thrilling to the extreme was the fancy bike riding of Valentine and Bell, who performed the astonishing stunt of riding about the stage on various articles of furniture …

“… in addition to the exhibition of bicycle feats that for daring and grace have not been equaled in Montgomery in many months.” (Montgomery Adv, Jan 30, 1920)

 “Valentine and Bell have perhaps the best bicycle act seen on a local stage this season. It has an unusual setting. And along with regular stunts which all bicyclists know, this pair of acrobats has several tricks which are uncommonly difficult.” (The Tennessean, Jan 9, 1920)

“The couple was getting top billing with Haag Brothers Circus … when a daughter, Patricia [‘Pat’ Adrienne Valentine], was born [May 9, 1919].  The Valentines were back in Honolulu with EK Fernandez shows in 1935 – 36.”

“In 1941 the Valentines decided it was time to settle down and picked the Islands as an ideal spot.” (SB, May 23, 1956)

They “had first set foot [in the Islands] in 1912, and where in 1915 they had performed at the Old Opera House at the present site of Honolulu’s main post office.” (Alton Slagle, SB, Feb 23, 1960)

“Patricia was born in Chicago … She went on the road at the delicate age of 10 weeks.  There followed a childhood of tinsel and glitter, sawdust and one-night stands, spills and thrills as Patricia learned the tricky operation of walking a tight rope.”

‘‘’At first I went on the road as excess baggage,’ she said. ’Then I joined the act.’ (Pat Valentine). … Soon she was riding a unicycle on the wire.” (Alton Slagle, SB, Feb 23, 1960)

“To circus goers a few years back she was known as ‘Patricia Valentine, Queen of the Silver Strand.’” (Alton Slagle, SB, Feb 23, 1960)  She was also called the Wizard of the Wire.  (SB, June 16, 1942)

In 1942,  Patricia married Herman Meyers, who ‘worked the circus as a sort of stage manager.’  She attended Cannon’s Business School, worked for several years as secretary to the Central YMCA physical director, and joined the Board of Water Supply … ‘In civil service there’s security,’ she explained. (Alton Slagle, SB, Feb 23, 1960)

“Patricia wouldn’t trade her circus upbringing, but she’s happy now to be settled down away from it, she confided.”

“‘I am very happy where I am,’ she said. ‘Besides, they’ve been kidding me that I’d never get all this up on that wire now.’ She patted her ample frame and laughed heartily.”

“‘I wouldn’t want to try after all these years.’” (Alton Slagle, SB, Feb 23, 1960) Pat V Meyers died January 5, 1994.

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Maliko Gulch Inverted Siphon

At the time of Haiku Sugar Company’s charter in 1858, there were only ten sugar companies in the Kingdom of Hawaiʻi.  Five of these sugar companies were located on the island of Maui:  East Maui Plantation at Kaluanui; Brewer Plantation at Haliʻimalie; LL Torbert and Captain James Makee’s plantation at Ulupalakua; Haiku Plantation; and Hana.

In 1869, Samuel Thomas Alexander and Henry Perrine Baldwin became business partners and bought 12-acres in Hāmākuapoko (an eastern Maui ahupuaʻa (land division.))  (They later formed Alexander & Baldwin, one of Hawai‘i’s ‘Big Five’ companies – and the only Big Five still in Hawai‘i.)

“The early years of the partnership of Alexander & Baldwin, represented a continual struggle against heavy odds. Haiku plantation had to have water.” (Men of Hawaii)

Then, the government granted Haiku Plantation the right to use the water flowing in streams down the broad slopes of Haleakala to the east of the plantation, and work was at once commenced on a ditch.

“The line, some seventeen miles in extent, with the exception of a few miles near the plantation, passes through the dense forest that covers the side of the mountain, and in running the levels for the work many large ravines and innumerable small valleys and gulches were encountered.”

“In the smaller of these the ditch winds its way, with here and there a flume striding the hollow, while through nine of the larger the water is carried in pipes twenty-six inches in diameter.”

“The digging of the ditch was a work of no small magnitude. A large gang of men, sometimes numbering two hundred, was employed in the work, and the providing of food, shelter, tools, etc, was equal to the care of a regiment of soldiers on the march.”

“As the grade of the ditch gradually carried the work high up into the woods, cart-roads had to be surveyed and cut from the main road to the shifting camps.”

“All the heavy timbers for flumes, etc., were painfully dragged up hill and down, and in and out of deep gulches, severely taxing the energies and strength of man and beast, while the ever-recurring question of a satisfactory food supply created a demand for everything eatable to be obtained from the natives within ten miles, besides large supplies drawn from Honolulu and abroad.”

“At the head of the work many difficult ledges of rock were encountered, and blasting and tunneling were resorted to, to reach the coveted water.” (FL Clarke, Thrum’s Annual, 1878)

Then came Maliko Gulch.

Maliko Gulch was too wide (and it was too expensive) to pipe the water via a bridge. They installed an inverted siphon in order to cross Maliko Gulch.  Maliko Gulch is a deeply incised stream valley with some sections of the valley floor more than 400 ft below the upland surface. (USGS)

“As the East Maui Irrigation Company report notes, Alexander planned to ‘pipe water across the gulch by means of a 1,110-foot-long inverted siphon.” (Witcher, Civil Engineering)

An inverted siphon uses a leakproof pipe that the ditch water flows into; the pipe is laid down, across and back up the Gulch ( and ends at a lower elevation than the where the ditch collects the water) – gravity pushes the water up the other side, into another ditch at the other side of the gulch.

“While work on the ditch was thus progressing, pipe makers from San Francisco were busied riveting together the broad sheets of iron to make the huge lengths of tube fitted to cross the deep ravines.” 

“These lengths had each to be immersed in a bath of pitch and tar which coated them inside and out, preserving the iron from rust, and effectually stopping all minute leaks.”

“The lengths thus prepared being placed in position in the bottom of the ravines, the upright lengths were fitted to each other (like lengths of stove-pipe) with the greatest care, and clamped firmly to the rocky sides of the cliffs.”

“Their perpendicular length varies from 90 feet to 450 feet; the greatest being the pipe that carries the water down into, across, and out of Maliko gulch to the Baldwin and Alexander Plantations.”

“At this point every one engaged on the work toiled at the risk of his life; for the sides of the ravines are almost perpendicular, and a ‘bed’ had to be constructed down these sides.”

“Then each length of pipe was lowered into the ravine and placed carefully in position; after which the perpendicular lengths were built up to the brink.”  (FL Clarke, Thrum’s Annual, 1878)

“When the ditch builders came to the last great obstacle, the deep gorge of Maliko, it became necessary in connection with the laying of the pipe down and up the sides of the precipices there encountered, for the workmen to lower themselves over the cliffs by rope, hand over hand.”

“This at first they absolutely refused to do. The crisis was serious.”

Just a few years before, “In 1876, while engaged in adjusting machinery at the sugar mill at the Pā‘ia plantation. Mr. Baldwin almost lost his life by being drawn between the rolls.”

“The engineer fortunately witnessed the accident and reversed the engine, but not before the right arm had been fearfully mangled almost up to the shoulder blade. The amputation was not followed by any serious results, but the handicap was a severe one to so energetic a worker as was Mr. Baldwin all his life.” (Mid Pacific, February 1912)

Back to the Maliko Gulch inverted siphon installation … while the workers initially refused, “[the one-armed] Baldwin met it by himself sliding down the rope, using his legs and his one arm, with which he alternately gripped and released the rope to take a fresh hold lower done.” (Arthur Baldwin)

“This was done before his injured arm had healed and with a straight fall of two hundred feet to the rocks below! The workmen were so shamed by this exhibition of courage on the part of their one armed manager, that they did not hesitate to follow him down the rope.”

“To keep the heart in them and to watch the progress of the work, Mr. Baldwin day after day went through this dangerous performance.” (Arthur Baldwin)

“Straining their financial resources almost to the breaking point, the young partners [Alexander and Baldwin] succeeded in bringing to completion the Hāmākua-Haiku ditch, the first important irrigation project in the islands.”

“The eventual enormous success of this enterprise made possible the great future of Alexander and Baldwin. Pā‘ia plantation was started and other extensive acreages were added to the partners’ holdings.” (Men of Hawaii)

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