Iolani Palace | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

April 22, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Hanailoia

Owing to the importance of the harbor of Honolulu, its central position in the Island chain and its increasing population, the principal chiefs and councilors convinced Kauikeaouli (Kamehameha III) to move the seat of government from Lāhainā to Honolulu. (Taylor)

By 1843, the decision was made to permanently place a palace in Honolulu. At about that time, Governor Mataio Kekūanāoʻa was building a house for his daughter (Princess Victoria Kamāmalu.)

Victoria Kamāmalu was the sister of Prince Alexander Liholiho and Prince Lot Kamehameha, who afterwards became, respectively, Kamehameha IV and Kamehameha V. Her mother, the High Chiefess Kīnaʻu, the Premier of the kingdom, was a half-sister of Kamehameha III, all being descendants of Kamehameha I. (Taylor)

The original coral block and wooden building called Hanailoia was built in July 1844 on the grounds of the present ʻIolani Palace. (Thrum) It has been said that in olden times a large heiau or temple existed on this spot, the name of which was Ka‘ahaimauli.

“The flight of stone steps leading to the hall, is just completed. Underneath the building is a deep cellar and outside of that, below the spacious verandah, the floor of which is raised six feet from the ground, are extensive accommodations for the guards and household servant.”

“The main-hall occupies the entire depth of the house, but disfigured at one end by an enclosed flight of stairs leading to the upper rooms.”

“On either side of the hall are lofty and spacious apartments of larger size, with broad and high windows reaching to the floor, and so constructed that they can be thrown entirely up, and give free access to the verandah, which entirely encircles the house.”

“The view from the upper story is very fine. It commands an extensive prospect, not only of the town, but the mountains and vallies, and seaward. It is divided into two rooms, and is, we believe, designed for smoking and lounging, during the heat of the day …”

“… for which, from its elevated position and coolness, the mountain breezes sweeping most delightfully through it, it is admirably calculated. With an eye to our own comfort, we could not help thinking what a nice editorial sanctum it would make.”

“The whole house, from its massive walls and deep verandah, must necessarily be very cool, in the hottest weather. The governor intends to lay out the grounds with taste, planting them with trees, &c, and has already prepared several wells to give the necessary supply of water.” (Polynesian, November 9, 1844)

“To a person who has ever visited any of the abodes of European sovereigns, such a term (‘palace’) would at once convey an idea of regal magnificence; but the residence of the Hawaiian monarch produces nothing that is superfluous, or even splendid.”

“On the contrary, every thing about it is plain, even to plebeianism, and induces a visitor to think that he may be treading the apartments of a chief rather than the palace of a sovereign. The grounds on which it stands cover between two and three acres, and are inclosed with a heavy wall of rough coral.”

“A visitor enters on the south side, between lodges occupied by sleepy sentinels. A small but beautiful grove of trees wave their stately foliage on either side of the path leading up to the royal apartments, and their cool shade reminds one of the groves of the Academy and the Lyceum, where so many of the old masters read, studied, and rambled.”

“A few steps bring you in front of the palace proper. It has a very simple, rustic appearance. The walls are composed of coral procured from the reefs along the shore of the harbor. The ground-plan covers an area of seventy-four feet by forty-four. The building is a story and a half high.”

“A noble piazza, eight or ten feet wide, and raised a few feet above the ground, entirely surrounds the building. The chief apartment is the one in which the king holds his levees. In the centre of the eastern wall of the apartment stood the chair of state. Its unpretending aspect led me to invest it rather with republican simplicity than monarchical aristocracy.” (Bates)

Various residences were placed around the grounds, the Palace being used principally for state purposes. ‘Hoihoikea’ was the name given to the large, old-fashioned, livable cottage erected in the grounds a little to ewa and mauka of the old palace, in which Kamehameha III, Kamehameha IV, and Kamehameha V resided. (Taylor)

The former Hanailoia, named Hale Ali‘i, was the palace used by Kings Kamehameha III, IV, V and Lunalilo. However, when Alexander Liholiho (Kamehameha IV) died November 30, 1863, his older brother Lot Kapuāiwa (Kamehameha V) became King and he considered a name change.

Minutes of the December 7, 1863 Privy Council note that Chancellor EH Allen “expressed the wish of the King to give a name to the Palace and that he wished it should be called St Alexander Palace.”

“After some discussion, Mr Wyllie moved that the following resolution be passed. … (However) after duly considering the Question, they would prefer the ‘‘Iolani Palace’ to the ‘Alexander Palace’ but that they respectfully defer to His Majesty right to give to his own Palace what ever name may best please himself.”

The minutes reflect that shortly thereafter, Acting Chamberlain, John O Dominis wrote, “I am ordered by His Majesty to inform You that he has styled His residence ‘‘Iolani Palace’ and you are instructed so to record it in the Minutes of the Privy Council.” (Privy Council, December 7, 1863)

So, Hanailoia was not only Honolulu’s first royal Palace, it was also the first ʻIolani Palace (although the Privy Council minutes refer to it as ‘ʻIolani Hale Ali‘i.’) It was torn down in 1878 to make way for the present ʻIolani Palace.

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White building in the front is old royal Mausoleum-Pohukaina. Wooden building behind it is original ʻIolani Palace

Old_Iolani_Palace_and_adjacent_premises,_ca._1850s

The old palace, which was built in 1845 and was replaced by Iolani Palace in 1882

Palace_of_King_Kamehameha_III,_from_the_harbor_(c._1853)

Hale_Aliʻi_with_Royal_Guards_(before 1879

Hale_Aliʻi_in_1857

Hale_Alii_illustration

Former_Iolani_Palace-before-1879

Pohukaina-in_front_of_Hale_Alii-original_Iolani_Palace-1850s

‘Io, the Endemic Hawaiian Hawk

August 24, 2017 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

ʻIolani Palace ‘Fountain’

Water supply was relatively primitive in the early days of Honolulu. The residents commonly relied on the water from springs and streams, sometimes carrying calabashes of water great distances over rugged terrain.

Wm R Warren reportedly made the earliest attempt to dig a well in Honolulu, around 1820, but failed to find water. The first successful well was dug two years later by Joseph Navarro in his yard near the Bethel.

Visiting Honolulu about the same time, in 1822, Tyerman and Bennet recorded that “good fresh water is obtained from wells sunk eight or ten feet through the coral reef.”

The first unit of a public water system was completed by March 31, 1848, using lead pipe acquired from Ladd & Co. the previous September.

According to the Minister of the Interior, “a water tank, for the convenience of shipping, was placed in the basement of the new Harbor Master and Pilots’ Office, near the wharf (foot of Nu‘uanu street), and it was supplied through a leaden pipe from a reservoir at Pelekane….” (Schmitt)

After the completion of the Bates Street reservoir in 1851, nearby businesses and homes were connected with the main. The system was further expanded in 1860-1861, eventually covering most of the city.

The first artesian well in the Islands was drilled in the summer of 1879 near James Campbell’s ranch house in Ewa and on September 22, a good flow of water was obtained. On April 28, 1880, an artesian well was successfully completed on the land of A. Marques near Punahou. (Schmitt)

To supply water for ʻIolani Palace, Kalākaua authorized a well on Palace grounds. “On Saturday morning (January 27, 1883) at 5 o’clock the water was reached in the well sunk in the Palace yard.”

“No means were available to stop or check the flow, and the whole grounds were soon covered with water. Alakea and Richard streets, from King street to the sea, were flooded all day.” (Daily Bulletin, January 29, 1883)

“Water was struck at the artesian well which is being sunk at the Palace grounds by Messrs McCandless and Braden … an increased flow was struck at a total depth of 760-feet the water rising fully six inches above the top of the 8 3/8 iron pipe.”

“Very little obstruction has been encountered during the sinking of the well, the soil being mostly of a clayey description. The stream whistles which announced the strike of water, both on the morning and evening, sent many people wandering to the wharves to look for the Suez.” (Hawaiian Gazette, January 31, 1883)

However, concern was raised on the impact of the Palace well on the city’s water supply. “During the last three weeks the water in the well in the Palace yard has fallen two inches. That is, it now rises to one foot below the height to which it rose when it was first bored.”

“At this rate it would take less than 10 years to lower the water to such an extent that no Artesian well on the would flow.”

“And that calculation is based on the supposition that no more wells will be bored and that no greater consumption of water will be found during that time than at present.” (Hawaiian Gazette, July 13, 1883)

“On Monday the well in the Palace yard was connected with the mains along Hotel street to Nu‘uanu, and up Fort, Richard, and Alakea streets to Beretania, so that we have that additional supply.” (Hawaiian Gazette, July 13, 1883)

Later, “During those periods when there was a shortage in the water supply of Honolulu, especially in the hot summer months and at which time the Water Department of the City and County of Honolulu limited the hours in which irrigation was permitted …”

“… the grass and trees in the Capitol (ʻIolani Palace) Grounds suffered and decidedly showed it from lack of sufficient water. For this reason it was deemed advisable to utilize this re-cased artesian well to supply water for irrigating said grounds.”

“As the ordinary pump house seemed rather out of place and would be somewhat of an eyesore to the Capitol Grounds, it was decided to construct the pump house under-ground and make that portion projecting out of the ground a large ornamental flower pot, enclosed in which is located the pressure tank.”

“The pump house will be circular in section measuring 8 ft. inside diameter and 6 ft. high, on top of which is located the pressure tank 6 ft. inside diameter and 3 ft. high, lined with galvanized iron and ornamented and so constructed that ferns or flowers may be planted in same.”

“There will be a small fountain in the top and an iron manhole for access to the pressure chamber. Access to the pump chamber will be by a winding staircase. The entire structure except as noted will be constructed of reinforced concrete.”

“The pressure tank will be connected to a piping system laid around the Capitol Grounds, which has been so laid out that different sections of the grounds may be irrigated independently by operating the proper valves.”

“The work of installing the piping, pump, etc., and placing this system in operation, will be paid for out of funds appropriated by the 1921 Legislature for that purpose. It is hoped that with this system in operation there will be an abundance of water for irrigation purposes even in the driest periods.” (Report of the Superintendent of Public Works, 1921)

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Iolani Palace Artesian_Well-Pump

Iolani_Palace Artesian Well-Pump

Iolani Palace Artesian Well-Pump

Iolani Palace Artesian Well-Pump-steps

ʻIolani Palace ‘Fountain’

July 5, 2017 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Early Stages to the Overthrow – Challenges with Kalākaua

Some suggest the overthrow of the Hawai‘i constitutional monarchy was neither unexpected nor sudden.

Dissatisfaction with the rule of Kalākaua (and, later, Lili‘uokalani) led to the ‘Bayonet Constitution,’ then, the overthrow. Mounting dissatisfaction with government policies and private acts of officials led to the formation of the Hawaiian League, a group of Honolulu businessmen.

Folks generally cite the efforts to form the Polynesian Confederacy, the opium license bribery case and the extravagance (and growing debt) as issues of concern about Kalākaua’s rule.

Polynesian Confederacy

“Kalākaua (one of the most theoretical of men) was filled with visionary schemes for the protection and development of the Polynesian race; (Walter Murray Gibson) fell in step with him … The king and minister at least conceived between them a scheme of island confederation.” (Stevenson)

“(Gibson) discerned but little difficulty in the way of organizing such a political union, over which Kalākaua would be the logical emperor, and the Premier of an almost boundless empire of Polynesian archipelagoes.” (Daggett; Pacific Commercial Advertiser, February 6, 1900)

“The first step once taken between the Hawaiian and Samoan groups, other Polynesian groups and, inclusively, Micronesian and Melanesian groups, might gradually be induced to enter into the new Polynesian confederation just as Lord Carnarvon gets colony after colony to adopt His Lordship’s British Federal Dominion policy.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, November 17, 1877)

John Bush, Hawaiʻi’s ambassador to Sāmoa, succeeded in negotiating Articles of Confederation, which the Hawaiian cabinet ratified in March 1887. Kalākaua sent the Kaimiloa to salute High Chief Malietoa Laupepa in Sāmoa. (However, a German warship there warned Kalākaua to stop meddling in Samoan affairs.) (Chappell)

Eventually, the confederacy attempts failed. It part, it is believed too many changes to existing systems were proposed, many of which were modeled after the Western way.

Later, the Berlin Act (signed June 14, 1889,) between the US, Germany and Britain, established three-power joint rule over Sāmoa. This ultimately led to the creation of American Sāmoa.

Opium License Bribery Case

Another issue that particularly incensed people was the opium franchise bribery case, in which the King was implicated. (Forbes) An opium bill was passed providing for a license for four years, to be granted by the minister of the interior with the consent of the King. (Reports of Committee on Foreign Relations)

“Early in November, 1886, Junius Kaae, (who has access to the King,) informed a Chinese rice planter named Tong Kee, alias Aki, that he could have the opium license granted to him if he would pay the sum of $60,000 to the King’s private purse, but that he must be in haste because other parties were bidding for the privilege.” (Executive Documents US House of Representatives, 1895)

“With some difficulty Aki raised the money, and secretly paid it to Kaae and the King in three instalments between December 3d and December 8th, 1888. Soon afterwards Kaae called on Aki and informed him that one, Kwong Sam Kee, had offered the King $75,000 for the license, and would certainly get it, unless Aki paid $15,000 more.”

“Accordingly Aki borrowed the amount and gave it to the King personally on the 11th. Shortly after this another Chinese syndicate, headed by Chung Lung, paid the King $80,000 for the same object, but took the precaution to secure the license before handing over the money.” (Alexander)

In a later affidavit, Tong Kee (Aki) noted, “I asked the King to return me all of my money and drop the whole thing. He exclaimed that this could not be done that it was all understood and arranged about the division of the license and could not be changed.” (Hawaiian Gazette, May 17, 1887)

Initially the king, through his minister of foreign affairs, disclaimed any involvement. However, “To cap the climax of the opium matter, the Attorney General proceeds to acknowledge that the money was paid over by the Chinese … (H)e informed the gentlemen interested in getting the money back that he would never accomplish his object so long as he allowed the newspaper to speak of the affair.” (Hawaiian Gazette, May 17, 1887)

“The Attorney General then sees that there is no use in denying the receipt of the money but suggests that if a quiet tongue is kept in the matter the cash received for the bribe may be returned. … This is a pretty piece of morality for the Attorney General to put forth and shows the obliquity of vision of all who are connected with the government.” (Hawaiian Gazette, May 17, 1887)

Extravagance/Debt

Although Kalākaua had been elected and serving as King since 1874, upon returning from a trip around the world (1881), it was determined that Hawaiʻi’s King should also be properly crowned (1883).

“ʻIolani Palace, the new building of that name, had been completed the previous year (1882), and a large pavilion had been erected immediately in front of it for the celebration of the coronation. This was exclusively for the accommodation of the royal family; but there was adjacent thereto a sort of amphitheatre, capable of holding ten thousand persons, intended for the occupation of the people.” (Liliʻuokalani)

“On Monday, 12th February, the imposing ceremony of the Coronation of their Majesties the King and Queen of the Hawaiian Islands took place at ʻIolani Palace. … Like a mechanical transformation scene to take place at an appointed minute, so did the sun burst forth as the clock struck twelve, and immediately after their Majesties had been crowned.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, February 17, 1883)

The building of ‘Iolani Palace, in and of itself was an enormous extravagance, and so far as its cost is concerned remains a mystery to this day. The contract was not put out to tender in the customary manner, but the work was given for private reasons to architects and builders whom the King wished to favor. There were no requisitions upon the Treasury, and bills were paid by the King without any Ministerial intervention. (Krout)

During the Aki Opium Bribery Case, noted above, it was learned that, “the King’s liabilities of one kind and another amounted to more than $250,000. He was finally induced to make an assignment for the benefit of his creditors … it was decided, in conformity with the Constitution, which adhered to the old mediaeval tradition, that the King could ‘do no wrong.’”

“This interpretation meant that Kalākaua ‘could not be sued or held to account in any court of the kingdom,’ but the revenue in the hands of the trustees was held liable to Aki’s claim.” (Krout)

“Official advices from Honolulu, just received here, shows that the financial condition of the Hawaiian Kingdom is such that there is not the slightest hope of the Government ever again being independent of money lenders. The consequence will be trouble which must come sooner or later, involving the interest of Americans, Englishmen and Germany.”

“It is understood that when that period is reached our Government will insist that only American authority shall be recognized in the Hawaiian Kingdom, in what form this control will be established has not been considered, but no foreign Government will be permitted, under plea of setting up a protectorate, to establish itself in that country.” (Sacramento Daily Union, June 29, 1887)

This led to the ‘Bayonet Constitution’ (signed July 6, 1887) that greatly curtailed the monarch’s power, making him a mere figurehead; it placed executive power in the hands of a cabinet whose members could no longer be dismissed by the monarch but only by the legislature; it provided for election of the House of Nobles, formerly appointed by the monarch. (hawaiibar-org)

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Kalakaua_1882

June 3, 2017 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Executive Building

‘Iolani Palace was the official residence of both King Kalākaua and Queen Lili‘uokalani. (‘Io is the Hawaiian hawk, a bird that flies higher than all the rest, and ‘lani’ denotes heavenly, royal or exalted.)

The cornerstone for ‘Iolani Palace was laid on December 31, 1879 with full Masonic rites. Construction was completed in 1882; in December of that year King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani took up residence in their new home.

The first floor consists of the public reception areas – the Grand Hall, State Dining Room, Throne Room and Blue Room (where informal audiences and small receptions took place) The second floor consists of the private suites – the King’s and Queen’s suites, Music Room and King’s Library.

“The apartments of the King and Queen occupied the rear of mauka side of the Palace on this floor. The King’s room which is on the Ewa side is 25 feet by 30 feet with dressing room and bath room, etc., opening from it. Adjoining is the library designed to be used also as a Privy Council chamber’.

“The Queen’s apartment is the same size as His Majesty’s and there are on the same side of the building, two guest chambers of about 23 feet. The rooms in the corner towers form agreeable additions to the apartments with which they communicate being entered directly from them.” (Pacoific Commercial Advertiser, September 24, 1881)

In 1895, Queen Lili‘uokalani was held under house arrest for eight months, following a failed counter-revolution by royalists seeking to restore the Queen to power after the overthrow of 1893.

After the overthrow of the monarchy, ‘Iolani Palace became the government headquarters (Executive Building) for the Provisional Government, Republic, Territory and State of Hawai‘i.

The palace was used for nearly three-quarters of a century as a government capitol building under the Provisional Government, the Republic of Hawai‘i, the Territory of Hawai‘i and the State of Hawai‘i – until the existing capitol building was completed in 1969.

It was during that time that the Palace served as a government office building, and for a while it also had a less that regal appearance.

The uses of the respective rooms changed. A major addition to the Palace (Executive Building) occurred in 1894. On April 26, 1894, a new vault for the treasury was put in the Blue Room.

The Finance Minister moved into the Blue room, and the dining room was taken over by the Minister of the Interior. Upstairs it was first planned that the President of the Executive would occupy the King’s bed chamber, with the Foreign Office moving into the old library and the Attorney General situated in the previous music room.

The Throne Room was converted into council chambers. The Waikiki side of the second floor was to be used for storing furniture. Some shuffling of uses occurred in the respective rooms.

Interior rooms were partitioned into office space and the exterior of the building was encrusted with many temporary wooden additions to increase the floor space required for the office personnel.

Little else was done to the Palace during the remaining years of the Republic. At the turn of the century, during 1900, the Territorial government took over control of Hawai‘i.

The legislature set aside a sum for alterations, repairs and improvements to the Territorial Capitol Building, and during the year just ended the Department has complete the work outlined in the plans for repairs and improvements.

This included the laying of ohia flooring throughout the entire building, reshingling the roof, painting of the exterior and the decoration of the interior of the building. Special care was given to the Governor’s office, the Senate Chamber, and the Throne Room.

Koa benches were placed in the corridors, the lanais were retiled, the old tile having broken or sagged in many places, and the building in general was completely renovated, including the installation of modern plumbing. An elevator. . . was installed.” (Public Works Report; Fairfax)

The former throne room had been used for sessions of the Territorial House of Representatives. The state dining room was used as the chamber of the Territorial Senate.

The private apartment of Kalakaua and later Lili‘uokalani was used as the Governor’s office. These formerly territorial functions were then moved to the new State Capitol in 1969.

The state government then vacated the Palace and plans were initiated an authentic restoration of the Palace to its appearance during the Hawaiian Monarchy, 1882-1893.

Click on the following link for a virtual tour of Iolani Palace: https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=E9uDoFAP3SH

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NORTHEAST_FACADE_-_Iolani_Palace-LOC

WEST_SIDE_-_Iolani_Palace-LOC

SOUTHWEST_(FRONT)_FACADE_AND_GROUNDS_-_Iolani_Palace-LOC

SOUTHWEST_FACADE,_AXIAL_VIEW_-_Iolani_Palace-LOC

SENATE_CHAMBER_-_Iolani_Palace-LOC

GOVERNOR’S_OFFICE_-_Iolani_Palace-LOC

Iolani_Palace-temporary offices-interior and exterior-LOC

Iolani_Palace-with temporary offices added on exterior-LOC

Iolani_Palace,_-temporary offices – Legislative Chambers-1st floor-LOC

February 21, 2017 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Timeline Tuesday … 1870s

Today’s ‘Timeline Tuesday’ takes us through the 1870s –first Kamehameha Day, Reciprocity Agreement, Lili‘uokalani writes Aloha ‘Oe and Iolani Palace is started. We look at what was happening in Hawai‘i during this time period and what else was happening around the rest of the world.

A Comparative Timeline illustrates the events with images and short phrases. This helps us to get a better context on what was happening in Hawai‘i versus the rest of the world. I prepared these a few years ago for a planning project. (Ultimately, they never got used for the project, but I thought they might be on interest to others.)

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