Honolulu | Page 12 | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

January 11, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

The King and His Court

“The king and his small court, have for several years resided chiefly at Lahaina, in the island of Maui; but since the end of June, they have been living here (Honolulu); and I understand, this capital is to be their permanent residence.”

“It is desirable that his majesty should not be too far removed from the seat of his government, as his absence subjects his ministers to misrepresentation, and creates delay from the necessity of consulting him on all important measures of administration.”

“I understand that during the recent troubles of his kingdom, and till the ‘fiat’ of her Britannic majesty’s government, upon the questions referred to them, were known, it was his majesty’s wish to keep himself out of the way of unnecessary intrusion, whereby the prestige of his prerogatives might be impaired.”

“There never was, nor could be any wish on the part of his ministers to throw his majesty into the shade by studiously keeping him in retirement. In the existing state of things, it became their duty, in concurrence with the royal wish, to shield their master’s prerogatives from any encroachment that could prejudice them in the eyes of his subjects.”

“Now, his majesty appears on the arena as a member of the family of recognized independent sovereigns, and the ministers are attempting to place his court, and organize his tribunals, upon a footing suited to his altered situation. In all this they only do what is their duty to the king, and what foreign governments will expect them to do.”

“Where everything was to be created de novo, errors are but to be expected; and fault has been found with the code of court etiquette decreed, and with the etiquette observed on the laid festival of the 31st of July,”

“After the explanation rendered, I believe by authority, in the Polynesian of the 31st of July, an intention to avoid any offensive preference becomes manifest; and with a government so young and surrounded by so many embarrassments, in my opinion offence ought not be felt, where no intention to give it can be suspected.”

“On proper application being made previously, the representatives of foreign powers are at all times admitted to a personal interview with the king, for the purpose of submitting to his majesty any case of well-founded grievance which any of their countrymen may have against the government or authorities of the country.”

“In speaking of the court, I cannot well omit making some allusion to the King himself. In all countries the character of the sovereign is to be approached with respect, and in this particular instance I do so in strict accordance with the feeling which I entertain towards the king of these islands.”

“It is not a little remarkable that in a society where there are some few individuals disposed to blame, censure and find fault with everything and everybody, I have never heard a single remark unfavorable to his majesty Kamehameha III.”

“All admit the goodness of his disposition; none profess to doubt the soundness of his intentions; none accuse him of cruelty, tyranny or oppression; and those who have familiar access to him, all concur in ascribing to his majesty much natural talent, and a good deal of acquired information.”

“Amongst those, I am happy to quote my friend Major Low, of the Bengal army, who lately made a tour in these islands, and after presenting to the king an introductory note from HRM’s consul general, experienced from his majesty the utmost kindness, rendered in the most frank, generous and gentlemanly spirit.”

“The Major retired from these islands with the most favorable opinion of his majesty’s character and talent. “

“His majesty of late years has become both the patron and the example of temperance among his subjects; and no one can be more regular in his attendance at church, or more zealous in discouraging the pagan rites, ceremonies and superstitions that formerly prevailed amongst the natives.”

“Kamehameha III is now about thirty two years of age, and though less robust than some of the chiefs, enjoys good health. On the 29 February 1837, he was married to Kalama, now aged twenty-seven years, but by whom he has no offspring.”

“In the event of his having no succession, the crown will devolve upon Alexander Liholiho, whom his majesty has adopted for that purpose. He is a sprightly promising youth, now in his eleventh year.”

“A singular feature in this monarchy is the custom of appointing a female to be premier of the kingdom. This custom seems to have originated in the will of Kamehameha I, which declared the kingdom to belong to his son Liholiho, but that Kaahumanu, (one of his queens,) should be his minister.”

“The present premier is Kekāuluohi, aged forty eight, and apparently much respected by all classes. Her attributes under the constitution are to carry into execution all business which the king wishes to transact – to be his majesty’s special counselor in the great business of the kingdom …”

“… to receive reports of all government property and make it over to the king and to concur with and approve all important business which the king may transact in person.”

“Whatever business in the kingdom she does, is to be considered as executed by the king’s authority—but the king has a veto on her acts, while his own are not binding unless approved of by her.”

“The premier has one son, William Charles Lunalilo, an interesting youth, now in his tenth year, but I presume his sex disqualifies him from being her successor, as Victoria Kamāmalu, now in her sixth year, is the reputed heir to the premiership.”

“I may add here that no pains are spared by Mr. and Mrs. Cook, through proper education and training, to fit these young persons, Alexander and Victoria, for the high functions which they are to be called upon to perform.”

“They are the children of his excellency Kekūanāoʻa, governor of Oahu by Kīna’u or Kaahumanu the second premier.” (Wyllie; The Friend, November 1, 1844)

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Kamehameha_III-Kauikeaouli

January 3, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

‘In Celestial Slums’

“A Health Inspection In Chinatown … Cholera’s Breeding Grounds and Fever’s Spawning-Beds Vile Sights and Smells Abound” as reported in the Hawaiian Star in 1893 …

“This morning a Star reporter accompanied Health Officer McVeigh on his daily trip through Chinatown. The Board of Health has been insisting on the observance of sanitary regulations as laid down in the Code, and of late, has been making raids on Chinese who were not obeying them.”

“‘Now the first place I will take you to is the public washhouse,’ said the officer. ‘Here is the worst cholera breeder there is in this city. Look through the cracks in this floor.’ The reporter looked through and saw a mass of green mud which the tide could not wash away.”

“‘We are expecting to get a new washhouse soon,’ said the officer, ‘but as it is now we are doing the best we can. The Board is looking for ways and means to erect a structure near the new market at the foot of Alakea street. But the way affairs are now only about half the laundrymen use this place as we have no room for any more.’”

“The stench that arises from under and around this washhouse is something terrible and the waters of the Nu‘uanu stream seem to have no effect upon the mass of slops that falls through the floor cracks into it.”

“The next place visited was Leleo Lane, just off King street, near the washhouse. Although the Health officer visits these pest holes every day, it is almost impossible to get the Chinese, (Japanese) and natives who live in them to recognize in the least any necessity for cleanliness.”

“Over sixty eight new cesspools have been built in the last few months and hundreds of ventilator pipes erected where there were none before, but it doesn’t half fill the bill.”

“Decayed poi, the sewage from outhouses and the slops thrown out by inmates have made the places underneath some of these tenements simply unbearable. These places are chiefly owned by Akana, a Chinaman.”

“The next place visited was the notorious ‘Bay View’ resort. This property, until lately overhauled by the health officers, was in a disgusting state. It is under lease to a Chinese procurer named Sam Kow.”

“Kekaulike street is another offshoot from King street and is environed by some of the broken down Chinese tenements, the yards of which smell to heaven.”

“The microbes and bacteria could be caught floating around in the air, while the effluvia was loathsome. These tenements are owned by Low Chung, of the Wing Wo Tai Co.”

“Coming through on Maunakea street the eye, as well as the nose, is assailed by the most loathsome sights and smells. The wash houses and vegetable shops are rivals as to which can emit the foulest odors. This property is owned by JF Colburn.”

“When the officer went into a tenement the other day in this locality, he ran across a trap and opened it and found a cesspool. Lighting a match he threw it into the pool when an explosion took place and blue flames mounted to the roof.”

“There are some exceptions to the rule of poor buildings in this place for ES Cunha is putting up on Maunakea street a one story brick block, with plenty of drains and cesspools, and he thinks it will pay better than the old ramshackle buildings that are around him.”

“Kikihale district was next taken in by the officer. This is the resort of the worst of Honolulu’s submerged classes.”

“Depraved native women without pretention of moral or physical cleanliness are lying about in one-story whitewashed tenements, disputing possession with the mangy curs that flock around them.”

“The outhouses are in the customary Cape Horn condition and the officer warns the occupants to use ‘more lime,’ which he forces them to have continually on hand. Ching Wa of the Sing Chong Co. is the principal owner of tenements in this district.”

“On the corner of Smith and Pauahi streets there are a lot of dives that have got to be watched continually by the officer. They are owned by Ho Sam, a wealthy rice planter at ‘Ewa, and A Aio, a Chinese merchant.”

“The officer was now approaching the sacred precincts of Kaumakapili Church, and quite within its shadow, descending a few steps near Nu‘uanu stream, off Beretania street, he presented to the reporter an opium den in full blast.”

“Officer McVeigh had evidently intended this as his last scene. Here were fully thirty Chinamen and natives sucking away at the demon pipe right in the shadow of Kaumakapili!”

“Near this place, seated on the ground, was an emaciated Chinaman in the last stages of berri berri, swollen beyond recognition.”

“This ended the journey for this day.” (Hawaiian Star, May 27, 1893)

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Honolulu-Chinatown-1893

August 19, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

‘A City in a Grove’

“When the whalers began to frequent (Honolulu Harbor) place in numbers, a town soon sprung up, and by the year 1820, Honolulu contained some six or seven thousand inhabitants.”

“To-day its population is reckoned at 17,000, a larger number than the capital of the important British Colony of New Zealand could recently boast.”

“The First view of Honolulu, on approaching it from the sea, has been variously described by visitors, some of whom have expressed great disappointment, whilst others have gone into raptures over the scene.”

“Unless, however, from exaggerated descriptions the traveler has been led to expect something extremely wonderful and unusual, I do not understand how anyone can fail to be charmed with the view of Honolulu …”

“… and its surrounding scenery as seen from the deck of an approaching vessel, especially after many days’ confinement on shipboard, with nothing but the waste of waters around him.”

“It is true that the hills of Oahu have not the same luxurious clothing of vegetation that is common in many of the island groups of the Southern Pacific. It is true also that the town has no characteristic buildings of a striking nature to arrest attention.”

“Nevertheless, Honolulu is a prettier place to look at from the sea than nineteen out of twenty port tropics or elsewhere. It has rightly been called ‘a city in a grove.’”

“Until trees were planted it cannot have been an inviting-looking place. No visitor of former days, up to five and twenty years ago, has anything to say in praise of the city, however delighted with the surrounding scenery.”

“Dusty streets, insignificant houses irregularly built and located, with hardly a tree to be seen anywhere, presented no feature worth a second thought.”

“All this is now changed, and by nothing more so than by the growth of the trees, now universally to be found throughout town and suburbs.”

“A few of the more important building tower above the trees; but for the most part the houses and stores are completely hidden by rich evergreen foliage.”

“This alone gives a character of its own to Honolulu which, charming as seen from the sea, is still more delightful when its cool shade is experienced in the streets and gardens of the town.”

“The first evidence of the commercial activity of the port to which the visitor is introduced is the large and substantial wharf or dock, as (according to an imported custom) it is usually called.”

“Here the large steamers of the Mail Service can lie alongside with ease. On the wharf is a huge landing shed, and behind this a large building of stone, occupied as a warehouse for bonded goods.”

“Facing the Esplanade Wharf are the Custom-house buildings, the entrance to the Custom-house itself is on Fort street. The department occupies half the upper floor of one of the buildings. They are all solid-looking erections of stone, and form a block by themselves, having open ground around them on three sides and a wide street on the other.”

“Of these the first was built in 1860, a two-story, fireproof building, sixty feet by sixty. It is here that Customs Department are located, and hence the building is usually known as the Custom-house’”

“Immediately alongside of this a similar warehouse was erected in 1867, and quite lately, in 1878, it has been found necessary to add another large bonding store, 200 feet in length by a width of 50 feet. This latter building has, however, but one story.”

“The isolated position of these warehouses and the substantial manner in which they have been built of stone, with slate or corrugated iron for roofing, renders them the safest stores in the town, and they are recognized as such by all the insurance companies, who take risks on their contents at lower rates than on any other stores.”

“Outside the shed I found quite a crowd of vehicles with their chattering Kanaka drivers looking for a fare. I chartered one, and I and my belongings were quickly bowled over the level streets to my destination.”

“Of course, I went to the Hawaiian Hotel, that pride of all the white inhabitants of Honolulu. It used, I hear, not to be so highly esteemed by a dissatisfied section of the natives, because it was built by the Government and cost a considerable sum of money, ($120,000 or so), to raise which the Government of the day ran the country into debt.”

“Next day I undertook a voyage of discovery through the town and found out the Government Buildings, and the King’s palace, and many other places of more or less interest. A new palace is in course of erection, and it is estimated that it will be completed before the beginning of 1881.”

“From the palace I went to the Government buildings. This is a plain structure, but of handsome proportions, and a decided credit to the Kingdom.”

“The great central hall and staircase of the buildings is lighted by a lantern tower, which is one of the most conspicuous objects in any view of the town from sea or shore, and is a relieving feature in a design otherwise rather homely in its character.”

“The Library is a highly creditable one. As might naturally have been expected, it is particularly rich in works upon the Hawaiian Islands or in which descriptions of the Islands, their people, language, fauna and flora, or anything relating to their history, are to be found.”

“I closed my afternoon’s excursion with a visit to the O‘ahu Prison. This is situated at the west side of the town and immediately at the mouth of the Nu‘uanu Valley. Its position for healthiness cannot be surpassed, subject as it is to every breath of the trade winds.”

“Built in 1857 of coral stone, cut from the various reefs by the prisoners themselves, and modeled after the Charlestown prison, near Boston, it so far has proved large enough for the criminal population of the country.”

“All prisoners whose sentences are over three months are sent here; also prisoners committed for trial to the various terms of the Supreme and Circuit Courts. There is cell accommodation for 170, and the usual average of prisoners is 150 to 155, one half of whom are natives, the other half foreigners and Chinese…”

“Prisoners are employed making roads, wharves, bridges, in fact any public work which may be going on at the time. In consequence of prisoners being thus employed, with the exception of such as are kept inside as servants, or on the sick list, or awaiting trial …”

“… no one, to look at the prison in the day time, would suspect that at night every cell was occupied, as from 6 A.M. to 5:50 P.M. all that can work are at work.”

“Looking seaward from the prison I noticed a building which had been erected upon the reef, and on enquiry found it to be a Quarantine Station. This building had been erected by the Government in the anticipation of its being required for purposes of quarantine, but it was not until the 28th of March, this year, that occasion occurred to put it to use for its proper purposes.”

“On the next day, on which I had leisure to pursue my examination of the town, I visited some of its educational establishments. There are plenty of native schools everywhere in this Kingdom.”

“Is it not the proud boast of the Kanaka race and of its teachers that it is ahead of all those nations which pride themselves on their advances in what we call western civilization in the proportion to the total population of those who can read and write their own language …”

“I never saw any theatrical representation in Honolulu. Neither tragedy nor comedy, burlesque nor opera can be said to be naturalized here yet. Nevertheless there is a theatre Royal, where occasionally a passing company angles for a few dollars with various results.”

“There is another public institution in Honolulu which does credit to the country, but which I did not visit. This is known as Queen Emma’s Hospital, having been named after his Queen by Kamehameha IV.”

“There is in Merchant Street another valuable public institution not supported by Government. This is the Sailors’ Home, which is maintained by a society organized in 1853, called the Sailors’ Home Society.”

“There is one public institution which every town ought to be able to boast of, more especially every tropical town, which I miss in Honolulu. There is no public park in or about the town.”

“The only open spaces in the town are Emma Square and the ground around the Government buildings. Emma Square is of no great extent.”

“The last, perhaps the most important place I have to mention is the bank. Messrs. Bishop & Co.’s premises are of stone, and handsome building at the corner of Merchant and Kaahumanu streets. This is the only bank on the islands.”

“On the first Saturday afternoon after my arrival in Honolulu I went, as every stranger does, and as a very large number of the residents do also, to the fish market. The place is on Queen street, just beyond Messrs. Brewer & Co.’s premises, and covers a considerable area between that place and the wharf which goes by its name.”

“This is the market of Honolulu. Not only fish, but fruit and vegetables and butchers’ meat, are to be purchased here. On Saturday all the country people come into town who can, and on the afternoon of that day the place is so crowded by pedestrians, that it is almost impossible to move about in it.”

“And now, before quitting Honolulu, I must not forget to mention two facts which do credit to the paternal Government which takes its municipal affairs under its wing. Water is laid on over almost all the town, and the streets are lighted with gas.” (Bowser, 1880)

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Honolulu_Harbor_in_1881

Iolani_Palace-early 1880s

Aliiolani_Hale-PPWD-1-7-017-1888-400

Fort St near makai-Waikiki corner with Queen St-King St crossing in distance-1880s

Fort Street looking across King Street-early 1889

Honolulu_the_Pele-PPWD-9-4-014-1888

Hotel Street looking toward Waikiki at corner with Fort St-1882

Kaahumanu_Street-1880

Kalakaua Hale – Police Station 1886

Kawaiahao Church in 1885-Look towards Diamond Head

Looking-mauka-on-Fort-Street-on-corner-of-Fort-and-Merchant-Streets-1881.jpg

Looking mauka on lower Fort Street-1885

Washington_Place,_Honolulu,_Hawaii,_1886

‘Entrance_to_Honolulu_Harbor’-William_Alexander_Coulter-1882

June 24, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Honolulu in the 1830s

“The plain of Honoruru exhibits, in a singular manner, the extent and effects of volcanic agency. It is not less than nine or ten miles in length; and, in some parts, two miles from the sea to the foot of the mountains.”

“The whole plain is covered with a rich alluvial soil, frequently two or three feet deep; beneath this, a layer of fine volcanic ashes and cinders extends to the depth of fourteen or sixteen feet …”

“… these ashes lie upon a stratum of solid rock, not volcanic, but calcareous, and apparently a kind of sediment deposited by the sea, in which branches of white coral, bones of fish and animals, and several varieties of shells are found.”

“The base of the mountains which bound the plain of the interior, appears to have formed the original line of coast on this side of the island; but probably, in some very remote period, an eruption took place from two broad-based, truncated mountains, called by foreigners, Diamond Hill and Punchbowl Hill, evidently extinguished craters …”

“… when the ashes and cinders thrown out, and wafted by the trade winds in a westerly direction, filled up the sea, and formed the present extensive plain; the soil of its surface having been subsequently produced either by the decomposition of lava, or by the mould and decayed vegetable matter washed down from the mountains during the rainy season of the year.”

“Across this plain, immediately opposite the harbour of Honoruru, lies the valley of Anuanu, leading to a pass in the mountains, called by the natives Ka Pari, ‘the precipice.’”

“The mouth of the valley, which opens immediately behind the town of Honorary is a complete garden, care fully kept, by its respective proprietors, in a state of high cultivation, and remarkably productive.”

“The valley rises with a gradual ascent from the shore to the precipice, which is seven or eight miles from the town. After journeying through varied scenery, all exceedingly rich and beautiful, for about this distance, the valley becomes gradually narrower, and the mountains rise more steep on either side.”

“The scenery is romantic and delightful: the bottom of the valley is gently undulated; a rapid stream takes its serpentine way from one side of the valley to the other, sometimes meandering along with an unruffled surface, and at other times rushing down a fall of several feet, or dashing and foaming among rocks which interrupt its progress.”

“The sides of the hills are clothed with verdure; even the rocks that project from amongst the bushes are ornamented with pendulous or creeping plants of various kinds; and, in several places, beautiful cascades roll their silvery streams clown the steep mountain’s side into flowing rivulets beneath.”

“The beauty of the scenery around increases, until, at length, after walking some time oh a rising ground, more steep than usual, and through a thicket of hills, the traveller suddenly emerges into an. open space, and, turning round a small pile of volcanic rocks, the Pari all at once bursts upon him with an almost overwhelming effect.”

“Immense masses of black and ferruginous rock, many hundred feet in nearly perpendicular heights, are piled up on both sides; while, immediately before him, he looks down the fearful steep several hundred feet, and be holds hills and valleys, trees and cottages, streams and paths, cultivated plantations and untrodden thickets …”

“… in short, a varied landscape, many miles in extent, bounded by lofty mountains on the one side, and the white-crested waves of the ocean on the other.”

“From this lower level the ascent is at first gradual and easy, but, as the highest edge is approached, be comes more formidable, especially in two places, where the volcanic rocks appear to rise perpendicularly, and present an even and apparently projecting front, which it seems impossible to surmount.”

“The elevation of the upper ridge, over which the path leads, is from four to five hundred feet above the land below. Still the natives not only pass and repass without much difficulty, but often carry heavy burdens from one side to the other.”

“Within a few yards of the upper edge of the pass, under the shade of surrounding bushes and trees, two rude and shapeless stone idols were formerly fixed, one on each side of the path, which the natives called Akua no ka Pari, ‘gods of the precipice.’ …”

“Immediately south of the valley of Anuanu, are situated the town and harbour of Honoruru. The harbour is the best, and indeed the only secure one at all seasons, in the Sandwich Islands, and is more frequented by foreign vessels than any other; seldom having less than three or four, and sometimes upwards of thirty lying within it at the same time.”

“The town has, also, since the number of shipping has increased, become populous. It is one of the largest in the islands, usually containing six or seven thou sand inhabitants.”

“It is the frequent residence of the king and principal chiefs, who are much engaged in traffic with foreigners visiting the islands, or residing on shore for purposes of trade.”

“There are twelve or fourteen merchants, principally Americans, who have established ware houses on shore for foreign goods, principally piece goods, hardware, crockery, hats and shoes, naval stores, etc. which they retail to the natives for Spanish dollars, or sandal wood.”

“On the eastern side of the basin is a strong fort, one hundred yards square, mounting sixty guns. It was begun by some Russians, who were, however, expelled, and the fort finished by the natives, from an apprehension that these foreigners were in connexion with the Russian settlements on the north west coast of America, and were about to take possession of the island.”

“About six miles to the west of Honoruru, and nearly as far from the village of Eva, on the Pearl River, there is a singular natural curiosity – small circular lake, situated at a short distance from the seashore, so impregnated with salt, that twice in the year the natives take out between two and three hundred barrels of fine, clear, hard, crystalized salt.”

“This lake is not only an interesting natural curiosity, but an important appendage to the island. It belongs to the king, and is not only useful in curing large quantities of fish, but furnishes a valuable article of commerce. The population of Oahu is estimated at about twenty thousand.” (All from Mission Records, 1839)

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‘Honolulu_1836’_by_Joseph_Dwight_Strong

Honolulu_Fort_(PP-36-5-001)-1837

Interior_of_the_Fort,_Honolulu_Harbor-1830s-1840s

“Honolulu Salt Pan, near Kaka‘ako” drawn by a Auguste Borget-(Hammatt)-1838

Mission_Houses,_Honolulu,_ca._1837._Drawn_by_Wheeler_and_engraved_by-Kalama

Auguste_Borget_-_’Honolulu_Waterfront’,_graphite_on_paper,_1838

Honolulu_Harbor-(TheFriend)-1836

Niuhelewai-Fish_Ponds_at_Honoruru,_Oahu,_by_John_Murray,_after_Robert_Dampier-(WC)-1836-400

Anonymous illustrator entitled ‘Town of Honolulu- Island of Woahoo-Sandwich Islands’-(Hammatt)-1834

April 12, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Honolulu 1848

Nineteen-year-old Gorham D. Gilman arrived in the Islands in 1841. He mastered the Hawaiian language, and pursued his career at several locations in the islands. It is likely Gilman set down his impressions of Honolulu while at sea on his way to California—lured thence by news of the gold strike. The following is his writing, compiled and edited by Sharpless & Greer:

“The first impression generally received of Hon: as the stranger rounds Dimond Pt is that of disappointment. The hills and plains if in the summer season look bare and barren—and burnt-brown by the heat of the sun …”

“… but as the vessel nears the anchorages the prospect is more pleasing the village of Waikiki amid its grove of Coconut trees—the long line of sand beach on which the surf gently roll ….”

“Leaving the vessel at anchor two or three miles from shore—the bay is entered in the boats—the passage safe and commoidious—there being 22 feet of water on the bar which—On either hand makes up and down the coast forming the protection of the harbor from the sea …”

“… on this reef the sea waves curl their tops and break the snowy crests and when old ocean is excited by a storm they crash and break with almost deafning roar—tho harmless—and it is of beautiful and exquisite music of a still evening to hear its reverberations— as it spend it strength on the coral rocks.”

“The first object that arrests the attention on approaching the shore, is the beautiful valley of Nuuanu situated just in the rear of the city and extending inland between two spurs of the Mountain. It is clothed with perpetual green and with its numerous cottages whose white walls peep forth from amid the shrubery has a cool and inviting appearance.”

“Most conspicuous of the buildings, as you near the shore is The Palace The Bungalow (a private residence)—The Large Stone Church—the Catholic Church The Bethel—and some of the larger warehouses of the merchants while from various parts of town may be seen the consular flags of which there is quite a number …”

“… sailing past the Fort which stands at the head of the passage into the harbour—and whose walls bristle with guns—the boat lands at the wharf amid a crowd of boatboys and natives assembled to see the strangers.”

“The first impression of the people as received from the motley crowd of men, women & children here assembled is not apt to be very favorable—their chattering like so many parrots quite amuses one.”

“The city is regularly laid out all the principle streets crossing at right angles cuts up the place into regular squares and makes it easy to find the way from one part to another without difficulty.”

“The most of the streets are wide and pleasant the most unpleasant feature of them is, the high adobie walls which generally line either side sperating the yards & premises of the citizens from the street—these are often plastered and white washed and when the sun is bright the reflection of this light and heat is very unpleasant …”

“… but these unsightly walls are fast giving away to neat picket fences set upon stone foundations which while they protect the premises from the street—afford the passerby a pleasant view of the cultivated yards within and the residences amid the shrubery.”

“The streets present a bustling active appearance during business hours—merchants—and traders are busy transacting their business the drays loaded with [illeg.] imported & for Export—the wharfes filled with goods and all the machinery in motion of an active place.”

“It is amusing to the stranger to stand and study the people as they pass before him—clad in every variety of costume. Some of which is unique in.”

“If it is a hot sweltering day in summer he will be likely to see some native who has become possessed of an old cast off pea jacket, and with this on buttoned up close to the chin—and with neither pants draws nor stockings to cover his legs he will walk up the streets as dignified as possible.”

“Another & quite as common sight is to see a man with a old hat shirt & vest on while his neither limbs have nothing but a pair of thick shoes upon his feet—but who is this? that with her silk parrasol comes by—she is dressed in the richest satin made like a loose dress worn by the laides at home an expensive Canton Crepe tied by two of the corners hangs upon her back …”

“There has been a very great improvement in the appearance of the people in the streets in the last few years—a few years since & it was very common to see some stout backwoodsman from the other Islands walking thru the street clad only with the Malo and the Kehei (Kihei – shawl) …”

“It is supprising almost to see the amount of silks and other rich goods that are worn by the females for they dress much more and better than the males—for a half clad female without some article of foreign fabric is seldom or ever seen in the streets of Hon.”

“I never saw but one of them clad in the ancient cloth & fashion —& she was just in from the backparts of Hawaii—and in an hour was genteelly fitted out by her friends.”

“The females are very ambitious to appear well dressed and strive to imitate as far as possible the fashions set by the Queen & the other female chiefs—and a good many support themselves by the use of their needle being easy to learn and very good seamstresses and commanding good pay for their labour …”

“Broadway (King Street) is the principal street of the city—th’o there is not so much business done here as at some of the others but it is the widiest & longest and the most of a thoroughfare & favorite resort …”

“… this street runs parallel with the harbour thro the whole length of the town—from the river on the most northern side to the plain on the South Eastern—& is two to three miles long.”

“There are a number of stores but all of them retail establishments. Broadway of a Saturday afternoon presents a gay and amusing spectacle—Saturday being a general holiday—and the afternoon particularly so for all classes of natives they strive to press as much amusement possible into the few hours—between the Meridian sun.”

“Consequently, they may be seen at an early hour on horseback—starting off in gay parties for a ride to some of the places of resort in the suburbs every half hour a very perceptable increase of their number may be seen—and at Four O’Clock the plain and valley roads are filled with equestairans riding at any rate from a wild race to the sober jog …”

“… and upon a variety of animals—From the noble horse proud to distinguish himself from the vulger herd—to the demure looking donkey with two or three rouges of boys on his back who try in vain to urge him along …”

“… and some wag not to be out done mounts a half broken in steer and stears his way among the crowd by a single string attached to a ring in the nose of the animal.”

“The women ride across the saddle and with their long flowing robe of silk or bright calico which conceals the leg of the rider— their loose dress—and head either ornamented with a wreath of Flowers or Feathers—or a strawhat with a good quantity of Ribbon flowing Cut quite a dash they are very expert riders indeed …”

“… and seldom got thrown & will accept a chalange to a race over the plain without the least hesitation and will ride fearlessly and ply the whip if likely to be beaten—as the sun sets the crowds turn to town, and now Broadway is all life—the streets are thronged with men & women all dressed out in their very best …”

“… lining the street its whole length it looks like a great gala day—they seem to enjoy the scene very much and their faces seldom can be seen to express more animation than as they pass & repass one another—among hundreds you scarce can find one that is not well dressed …”

“… the horseman & women make Broadway their point of display and come in in crowds or singly—and the bystanders amuse themselves by critizising the riders—like the crowd in the carnival some will be hailed with shouts of laughter at their appearance …”

“…and then words of praise as some good riders go prancing by – women as well as the men enter this gauntlet of opinion & sometimes call forth loud applause.”

“Soon His Maj’s (King Kamehameha III) coming is announced the streets are closed for his approach. He generally on this P.M. has some dozen or twenty in his train—he is a fine rider and makes appearance on horseback. All is hushed as he passes—and the crowds soon disperse to their homes.”

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