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April 19, 2022 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Kona in the Early 1820s and 1830s

Artemas Bishop and his family were first permanently stationed at Kailua, Hawaii, in 1824, being transferred to Ewa, Oahu, in 1836, and to Honolulu in 1855, where Mr. Bishop died, Dec. 18, 1872.

Mrs. Bishop died at Kailua, Feb. 28, 1828, the first death in the mission band. She left two infant children, including Sereno Edwards Bishop, who was born at Ka‘awaloa, Hawaii, Feb. 7, 1827. The following are some of Bishop’s “Reminiscences of Old Hawaii” that he included in his book named such.

“Kailua In The 1820s … Kailua was the capital of the Island. It is situated on the west coast, twelve miles north of Kealakekua, where Captain Cook perished. It lies at the base of the great mountain Hualalai, 8,275 feet high.”

“The entire coast consists of lava flows from that mountain, of greater or less age. Here and there in the village were small tracts of soil on the lava, where grew a few cocoanut, kou, and pandanus trees.”

“There were no gardens, for lack of water. Heat and general aridity characterized the place. But it pleased the natives, on account of the broad calm ocean, the excellent fishing, and the splendid rollers of surf on which they played and slid all day.”

“North of the town, the whole region seemed to be occupied by an ocean of black billowy lava which at some recent period had flowed down from the mountain. This bounded that end of the village.”

“A vast breadth of this lava-sea had invaded the ocean for miles, beyond the older shore line of Kailua. A wide tongue of lava had bent around and partially enclosed the little cove with its deep sand beach where was the chief landing of the town.”

“Surfing And Canoes … This was a universal sport of the chiefs and common people alike. The ponderous chiefs had very large boards of light wood.”

“In the Bishop Museum may be seen today an immense surf board of the cork-like wili-wili wood, on which the famous Paki used to disport himself at Lahaina fifty years ago. I doubt whether Kuakini, with his 500 pounds, was agile enough to attempt it.”

“In handling canoes the natives were most adroit. Kona, with its great koa forests inland abounded in canoes. There were no boats. The people were skilled fishermen and often went many miles to sea, in pursuit of the larger deep-deep-sea fish.”

“A name given to Mt. Hualalai behind us, was “Kilo-waa,” or Canoe-descrier. The canoes were of elaborate form and smoothness. Most of them were single canoes with outriggers. Many large ones, however, were rigged double, six or eight feet apart, with a high platform between them.”

“All the fastenings were of carefully plaited sinnet or cocoanut fiber, the lashings being laid with great care and skill. The mast was stepped in the platform. The common people had mat sails. Those of Kuakini’s canoes were of sail-duck.”

“Appearance Of Chiefs And People … The relative rank of other natives could be approximately estimated by their stature and corpulence. There were quite a number of large fat men and women of some rank among our neighbors.”

“The leading women met weekly at our house, most of them wearing the lei-pa-Iaoa, consisting of a thick bunch of finely plaited hair passed through a large hole in a hooked polished piece of whale-tooth, and tied around the neck, forming an insignium of rank.”

“They also carried small kahilis to brush away the flies. Any chief of high rank was attended by one or more fly-brushers, by a spittoon-bearer, and other personal attendants.”

“The spittoon holder was the most honored, being responsible to let none of the spittle fall into the possession of an evil-minded sorcerer, who might compass the death of the Alii therewith. Broad, elastic cocoanut leaf fans were in constant play.”

“Hawking and spitting were continued in any gathering of natives, and were apt seriously to disturb public worship at church. But the great crowd of the common people were miserably lean, and often very squalid in appearance. “

“They were too much in the sea to appear filthy, although the heads of both high and low were thoroughly infested. It was a daily spectacle to see them picking over each other’s heads for dainties. Their vicinity rendered necessary the frequent use of a fine-toothed comb on us children, much to our discomfort. But I believe our ancestors at no remote period were little better off.”

“Styles Of Clothing … The common multitude wore no foreign cloth. Their few garments were wholly of tapa. The younger women were rarely seen uncovered beyond decency, although old crones went about with the pa-u only. The smaller children had nothing on. The men always wore the half-decent malo, and nothing more.”

“At meetings, they wore the little kihei, or shoulder cape. Before 1836, simple cotton shirts would not unfrequently be seen in the church. I never saw but two Hawaiians wearing trousers in Kailua. One was Kuakini and the other Thomas Hopu, from the Cornwall School, who came out with Bingham and Thurston.”

“The national female costume was the pa-u, which was worn by all at all times. It was a yard wide strip of bark-cloth wound quite tightly around the hips reaching from the waist to the knees, and secured at the waist by folding over the edges. Foreign cloth was also used. At one great ceremonial, a queen had her body rolled up in a pa-u of one hundred yards of rich satin.”

“Sources Of Drinking Water … The drinking water of the people was very brackish, from numerous caves which reached below the sea level.”

“The white people, and some chiefs had their water from up the mountain where were numerous depressions in the lava, full of clear, sweet rain water.”

“There were also many tunnel-caves, the channels of former lava-streams. The air from the sea, penetrating these chill caverns, deposited its moisture, and much distilled water filled the holes in the floor.”

“Sometimes the fine rootlets of ohia-trees penetrating from above, festooned the ceilings of these dark lava-ducts as with immense spider webs. If in a dry season, water was lacking on the open ground, it could always be found higher up on the mountain in such caves.”

“Twice a week one of our ohuas or native dependants went up the mountain with two huewai, or calabash bottles, suspended by nets from the ends of his mamaki or yoke, similar to those used by Chinese vegetable venders.”

“These he filled with sweet water and brought home, having first covered the bottles with fresh ferns, to attest his having been well inland. The contents of the two bottles filled a five-gallon demijohn twice a week.”

“Source Of Food Supply … The people had ample cultivable land in the moist upland from two to four miles inland at altitudes of one thousand to twenty-five hundred feet.”

“It is a peculiarity of that Kona coast that while the shore may be absolutely rainless for months gentle showers fall daily upon the mountain slope.”

“The prevailing trade-winds are totally obstructed by the three great mountain domes and never reach Kona. There are only the sweet land breeze by night, and the cooling sea-breeze by day.”

“The latter comes in, loaded with the evaporations of the sea, and floats high up the mountain slopes. As it rises, the rarification of the air precipitates more and more of its burden of vapor, so that at two thousand and three thousand feet, there are daily copious rains, and verdure is luxuriant.”

“The contrast is immense and delicious between the arid heat of the shore, and the moist cool greenness of the near-by upland. The soil is most fertile, being formed from the decay of recent lava flows.”

“There the natives found their chief means of subsistence, and, in good seasons, were sufficiently fed. In bad seasons there were drought, and more or less of ‘wi,’ or famine. The uala or sweet potatoes, and the taro, which constituted their chief food grew best on the lower and warmer ground, where was more liability to drought.”

“How Fire Was Obtained … The people commonly procured fire by friction of wood, although some of them had old files, from which they elicited sparks by strokes from a gun-flint. It was common to carry fire in a slow-burning tapa-match, especially when they wanted to smoke.”

“I first saw fire obtained from wood at our camp on Mauna Kea. A long dry stick of soft hau or linden wood was used. A small stiff splinter of very hard wood was held in the right hand, and the point rubbed with great force and swiftness in a deep groove formed in the soft wood by the friction.”

“A brown powder soon appeared in the end of the groove, began to smoke and ignited. This was deftly caught into a little nest of dry fibre and gently blown into a flame, which soon grew into an immense camp-fire.” (Bishop)

© 2022 Hoʻokuleana LLC

View of Kailua from Laniakea-1836
View of Kailua from Laniakea-1836
Persis_Goodale_Thurston_Taylor_–_Kailua_from_the_Sea,_1836
Persis_Goodale_Thurston_Taylor_–_Kailua_from_the_Sea,_1836
Kaawaloa, Kealakekua Bay. A copperplate engraving from a drawing by Lucy or Persis Thurston about 1835
Kaawaloa, Kealakekua Bay. A copperplate engraving from a drawing by Lucy or Persis Thurston about 1835

Filed Under: Economy, General, Missionaries / Churches / Religious Buildings, Place Names Tagged With: Hawaii, Hawaii Island, Kona, Sereno Bishop, Artemas Bishop, 1820s, 1830s

June 24, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Honolulu in the 1830s

“The plain of Honoruru exhibits, in a singular manner, the extent and effects of volcanic agency. It is not less than nine or ten miles in length; and, in some parts, two miles from the sea to the foot of the mountains.”

“The whole plain is covered with a rich alluvial soil, frequently two or three feet deep; beneath this, a layer of fine volcanic ashes and cinders extends to the depth of fourteen or sixteen feet …”

“… these ashes lie upon a stratum of solid rock, not volcanic, but calcareous, and apparently a kind of sediment deposited by the sea, in which branches of white coral, bones of fish and animals, and several varieties of shells are found.”

“The base of the mountains which bound the plain of the interior, appears to have formed the original line of coast on this side of the island; but probably, in some very remote period, an eruption took place from two broad-based, truncated mountains, called by foreigners, Diamond Hill and Punchbowl Hill, evidently extinguished craters …”

“… when the ashes and cinders thrown out, and wafted by the trade winds in a westerly direction, filled up the sea, and formed the present extensive plain; the soil of its surface having been subsequently produced either by the decomposition of lava, or by the mould and decayed vegetable matter washed down from the mountains during the rainy season of the year.”

“Across this plain, immediately opposite the harbour of Honoruru, lies the valley of Anuanu, leading to a pass in the mountains, called by the natives Ka Pari, ‘the precipice.’”

“The mouth of the valley, which opens immediately behind the town of Honorary is a complete garden, care fully kept, by its respective proprietors, in a state of high cultivation, and remarkably productive.”

“The valley rises with a gradual ascent from the shore to the precipice, which is seven or eight miles from the town. After journeying through varied scenery, all exceedingly rich and beautiful, for about this distance, the valley becomes gradually narrower, and the mountains rise more steep on either side.”

“The scenery is romantic and delightful: the bottom of the valley is gently undulated; a rapid stream takes its serpentine way from one side of the valley to the other, sometimes meandering along with an unruffled surface, and at other times rushing down a fall of several feet, or dashing and foaming among rocks which interrupt its progress.”

“The sides of the hills are clothed with verdure; even the rocks that project from amongst the bushes are ornamented with pendulous or creeping plants of various kinds; and, in several places, beautiful cascades roll their silvery streams clown the steep mountain’s side into flowing rivulets beneath.”

“The beauty of the scenery around increases, until, at length, after walking some time oh a rising ground, more steep than usual, and through a thicket of hills, the traveller suddenly emerges into an. open space, and, turning round a small pile of volcanic rocks, the Pari all at once bursts upon him with an almost overwhelming effect.”

“Immense masses of black and ferruginous rock, many hundred feet in nearly perpendicular heights, are piled up on both sides; while, immediately before him, he looks down the fearful steep several hundred feet, and be holds hills and valleys, trees and cottages, streams and paths, cultivated plantations and untrodden thickets …”

“… in short, a varied landscape, many miles in extent, bounded by lofty mountains on the one side, and the white-crested waves of the ocean on the other.”

“From this lower level the ascent is at first gradual and easy, but, as the highest edge is approached, be comes more formidable, especially in two places, where the volcanic rocks appear to rise perpendicularly, and present an even and apparently projecting front, which it seems impossible to surmount.”

“The elevation of the upper ridge, over which the path leads, is from four to five hundred feet above the land below. Still the natives not only pass and repass without much difficulty, but often carry heavy burdens from one side to the other.”

“Within a few yards of the upper edge of the pass, under the shade of surrounding bushes and trees, two rude and shapeless stone idols were formerly fixed, one on each side of the path, which the natives called Akua no ka Pari, ‘gods of the precipice.’ …”

“Immediately south of the valley of Anuanu, are situated the town and harbour of Honoruru. The harbour is the best, and indeed the only secure one at all seasons, in the Sandwich Islands, and is more frequented by foreign vessels than any other; seldom having less than three or four, and sometimes upwards of thirty lying within it at the same time.”

“The town has, also, since the number of shipping has increased, become populous. It is one of the largest in the islands, usually containing six or seven thou sand inhabitants.”

“It is the frequent residence of the king and principal chiefs, who are much engaged in traffic with foreigners visiting the islands, or residing on shore for purposes of trade.”

“There are twelve or fourteen merchants, principally Americans, who have established ware houses on shore for foreign goods, principally piece goods, hardware, crockery, hats and shoes, naval stores, etc. which they retail to the natives for Spanish dollars, or sandal wood.”

“On the eastern side of the basin is a strong fort, one hundred yards square, mounting sixty guns. It was begun by some Russians, who were, however, expelled, and the fort finished by the natives, from an apprehension that these foreigners were in connexion with the Russian settlements on the north west coast of America, and were about to take possession of the island.”

“About six miles to the west of Honoruru, and nearly as far from the village of Eva, on the Pearl River, there is a singular natural curiosity – small circular lake, situated at a short distance from the seashore, so impregnated with salt, that twice in the year the natives take out between two and three hundred barrels of fine, clear, hard, crystalized salt.”

“This lake is not only an interesting natural curiosity, but an important appendage to the island. It belongs to the king, and is not only useful in curing large quantities of fish, but furnishes a valuable article of commerce. The population of Oahu is estimated at about twenty thousand.” (All from Mission Records, 1839)

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© 2018 Hoʻokuleana LLC

'Honolulu_1836'_by_Joseph_Dwight_Strong
‘Honolulu_1836’_by_Joseph_Dwight_Strong
Honolulu_Fort_(PP-36-5-001)-1837
Honolulu_Fort_(PP-36-5-001)-1837
Interior_of_the_Fort,_Honolulu_Harbor-1830s-1840s
Interior_of_the_Fort,_Honolulu_Harbor-1830s-1840s
“Honolulu Salt Pan, near Kaka‘ako” drawn by a Auguste Borget-(Hammatt)-1838
“Honolulu Salt Pan, near Kaka‘ako” drawn by a Auguste Borget-(Hammatt)-1838
Mission_Houses,_Honolulu,_ca._1837._Drawn_by_Wheeler_and_engraved_by-Kalama
Mission_Houses,_Honolulu,_ca._1837._Drawn_by_Wheeler_and_engraved_by-Kalama
Auguste_Borget_-_'Honolulu_Waterfront',_graphite_on_paper,_1838
Auguste_Borget_-_’Honolulu_Waterfront’,_graphite_on_paper,_1838
Honolulu_Harbor-(TheFriend)-1836
Honolulu_Harbor-(TheFriend)-1836
Niuhelewai-Fish_Ponds_at_Honoruru,_Oahu,_by_John_Murray,_after_Robert_Dampier-(WC)-1836-400
Niuhelewai-Fish_Ponds_at_Honoruru,_Oahu,_by_John_Murray,_after_Robert_Dampier-(WC)-1836-400
Anonymous illustrator entitled 'Town of Honolulu- Island of Woahoo-Sandwich Islands'-(Hammatt)-1834
Anonymous illustrator entitled ‘Town of Honolulu- Island of Woahoo-Sandwich Islands’-(Hammatt)-1834

Filed Under: General, Place Names, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Honolulu, Oahu, 1830s

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