Images of Old Hawaiʻi

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Pueo Kahi

Na ka Pueo kahi ke aloha
Nēnē ‘au kai o Maui

Kōwelo kō hae Hawai‘i
Ma ka ‘ilikai a‘o Māmala

Mālama ‘ia iho ke aloha
I Kuleana na‘u e hiki aku au

Ha‘ina ‘ia mai ka puana
Nā ka Pueo kahi ke aloha

The Pueo is my one love
The seafaring gull of Maui

The Hawaiian flag flutters
Over the surface of Mamala Bay

Take care of my love
That’s mine until I return

The story is told
Of the ship, Pueo that I love
(Na Ka Pueo – by Samuel Kalani Kaea)

Na Ka Pueo, a song which was perhaps written by a sailor, tells of a ship named Pueo-Kahi, a cargo vessel which sailed between Hāna and Honolulu harbors during the end of the monarchy period and during the republic.

The Pueo-Kahi was named for a place near Hāna, Maui. It is an earlier name of what we now call Hāna Bay and near the birthplace of Queen Ka‘ahumanu. ‘Pueo-Kahi,’ which could be translated as ‘Lone Owl,’ was named for the owl (pueo) demigod of that area. (Hau‘oli)

Ship, boat or canoes in Hawaiian mele were used as a poetic reference to woman. Owls were also family aumakua (ancestral gods).

“[T]he ‘aumakua was represented in marine life such as great fish, mano (shark), puhi (moray eel), mo‘o (lizard), honu (turtle), and land animals such as pueo (owl).”

“Many of [the people] looked for appearances by their ‘aumakua.  For example, one informant shared that at a family funeral, his ‘aumakua, the pueo, appeared to lend support to his family.”

“The family knew where their ‘aumakua could be found and always made efforts to nurture or never harm them. … Pueo is symbolic of Wisdom and the whole universe, light and enlightenment. It is an ‘aumakua or ancestral guardian spirit.” (Matsuoka, etal)

Hāna is located on the eastern most point of Maui, approximately 60 miles from the population centers of Wailuku and Kahului. Hāna, or Kapueokahi, “the single owl”, is considered one of the most beautiful and historically important areas of Maui.

Prior to the unification of the Hawaiian Islands by King Kamehameha, Hāna was used as a staging ground for battles between warring chiefs on Maui and the island of Hawaii.  (AECOS)

Alenuihaha Channel, between the southeast and south coast of East Maui and ‘Upolu Point (the northwest tip of Hawaii) could easily be crossed in either direction in a couple of hours when a trade wind was blowing.

As a sanctuary, both in wartime and peacetime, Hāna was an ideal seat for ruling ali’i of either island, as well as a much pleasanter and more beautiful place in which to live.

“Hana is called ‘a land beloved of chiefs because of the fortress of Ka‘uiki [a high rocky hillock by the bay] and the ease of living in that place.’”

“In time of war the hill was reached by a ladder of ohia poles bound together with withes. On the summit was spread a springy plant to serve as bed. Fishponds below furnished unlimited stores of fish. Heaps of ‘awa root ‘delighted the nostrils of the dear firstborn chiefs’”. (Beckwith; Handy, Handy & Pukui)

The sugar industry transformed the ecology of Hāna beginning in 1860 with the Ka‘eleku Sugar Company that formed the backbone of Hāna’s economy until sugar production ceased in the early 1930s.

Paul Fagan bought the sugarcane plantation, converting the area into cattle ranching, and in 1946, built the exclusive Hotel Hāna Ranch, historically known as Hotel Hāna Maui and today as Travaasa Hāna.

The pier at Hāna Bay (also historically known as Kauiki Bay ca. 1920, and as Kapueokahi Bay ca. 1882) was completed in the first half of 1921.

It replaced an earlier landing located near the foot of Keawa Place, on the shore of Hāna Bay, about 250 yards to the west. Here, a series of landings, jetties, and a pier had been in use since at least 1882.

When the 1921 structure was built, it was referred to as “Hāna Wharf”, not as a pier (as it is known today). As such, the historical context that follows uses the historically accurate terms “wharf” and “Hāna Wharf” to describe what is now known as Hāna Pier. (AECOS)

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Kilauea 1921

“In March of 1921, the big steamer Hawkeye State made her first Baltimore to Hawaii trip, bringing a large list of eastern passengers to visit the volcanic marvel.”

“The campaign of publicity which landed them at Hilo had been based more than all else upon the prayer that the fire goddess might be in wrathful mood.”

“As the Hawkeye State neared port, there was a disheartening lack of glow upon the side of Mauna Loa. The hopes of the promoters were faint when the hotels at Kilauea were reached, and grumbling arose at the insufficient accommodation and lethargic aspect of Halemaumau in the distance.” (Charmian London)

“This continued until the procession of motors was well on its way through the forest, bound for the pit.”

“And then it happened.” (Charmian London)

“The eruption started just as a group of the members of the Chicago Athletic Club arrived here from San Francisco on the steamer Hawkeye State.” (Richmond Times, March 20, 1921)

“‘It’s a Niagara of fire.’  This description of the lava outburst at Kilauea Volcano. The fire pit of which overflowed on Thursday night and early yesterday morning was given today by Fred J Halton, who returned this morning on the Hawkey State from Hilo.” (Star Bulletin, March 19, 1921)

“Abruptly, as if ordered for their benefit, Pele broke loose upon the starry night; arid by the time the excited scores had reached the verge of her dwelling, the ponderous surge, urged from beneath, was lashing tremendously against the battlements.”

“These capitulated to the onslaught, and crashed into the molten mass, driving the tourists hastily to their cars and the safety and sight-seeing vantage of the bluffs around the main crater. I quote from an eye-witness:”

“‘The lake broke through crevices and rushed with express speed out over the old lava surface, where flowing lava had not been known for forty years. A river formed on the side toward the Volcano House, plunged down the incline, covered the old horse corral where Professor Jaggar’s instruments were stored, sealing them forever.’”

“‘On and on the river spread until it stopped at the foot of the cliffs just below the Volcano House. All night and on St. Patrick’s day, which was also the birthday of Kamehameha III, the lava found new openings. It poured like a Niagara over the south side.”

“A new fountain formed near the bluff southwest of Halemaumau and sent incandescent rockets into the air. Another fountain formed over toward the Kau road.’”   (Charmian London)

“Pele has played fast and loose the past several years; and no man can count upon his pilgrimage being rewarded by her most spectacular performances. Although I continue to maintain that her serenest vaporings are worth the voyage….”

“The goddess was surely working for the promotion committee; and a new hotel and enlargement of all present facilities, both there and in Hilo, were promptly on the way. To say nothing of improvements on the volcano highway….”  (Charmian London)

“In July 1921, 250 people standing near the rim of Halema‘uma‘u officially dedicate Hawai‘i National Park. It’s actually named the 11th national park on Aug. 1, 1916, about three weeks before the National Park Service is established, and its 74,935 acres includes Haleakalā on Maui, and Mauna Loa and Kīlauea on the Big Island.” (Honolulu Magazine)

“‘We amply endorse the statement made by Mr. Horace M. Albright, assistant to Director Mather, that the Hawaii National Park has no peer. ‘I was amazed,’ said Mr. Albright, ‘by the wonders of the Kilauea section of the park. Its central feature of course is the great pit of living fire, Halemaumau.’”

 “‘This pit is in the center of the main Kilauea crater, which is a great depression in a dome mountain 4,000 feet high, appearing to be a part of the eastern slope of Mauna Loa. It is impossible to describe this active lake of fire.’”

“‘It is the most awe-inspiring thing that I have ever observed, far surpassing the geysers of the Yellowstone, the waterfalls of the Yosemite, and the big trees of Sequoia Park.’”

“‘I have no hesitation in predicting that when once the people of the United States realize what a remarkable thing this volcano really is it will become the objective of thousands and thousands of visitors.’” (Honolulu Magazine)

“‘But,’ continued Mr. Albright, ‘the volcano is only one of the many sights of a wide district. There are many other steaming and dead craters, great forests of primeval tree ferns, many with fronds thirty feet in length which arch overhead, forests of koa and ohia, lava trees and wonderful tree molds.’”

“‘There is also the Bird Park, a beautiful natural park, surrounded by ancient lava flows and filled with native trees and beautiful native birds. There is also the seven-craters area traversed by the Cockett Trail. Several of these craters are almost as remarkable as the active volcano itself.’” (Honolulu Magazine)

“The picturesque [dedication] exercises included the recitation by a lineal descendant of a priest of Pete, of a prayer to the fire goddess.”

“This invocation, delivered in the full-toned chant of the old Hawaiians, was succeeded by an impressive recitation of the first Christian prayer delivered at the same brink by the spirited Kapiolani in olden days.”

“In connection with this National Park a road is to be built to the crater Mokuaweoweo at the summit of Mauna Loa. Owners of the land required for this highway are willing to donate the property.”

“The possibilities of this road are set astir in one’s imagination by the popular watchword, ‘From Surfing to Ski-ing.’”  (Charmian London, Our Hawaii)

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by Peter T Young 1 Comment

“The child will not die, he will live.”

A mile south from Kahaluʻu, and five from Kailua, lies the village of Keauhou, once supremely sacred, and a proudest of the royal lands on the big island of Hawaii. (Kelsey and Kekahuna; Maly)

So exceedingly tabu, indeed, was Keauhou, that if even so much as a shadow of a commoner fell toward it from near at hand he would be put to death for his heinous sacrilege! (Kelsey and Kekahuna; Maly)

Therefore, in the morning, when shadows fell seaward, travelers had perforce to swim across the bay from its point of Ha‘ikaua on the north to that of Kaukulaelae on the opposite shore, or vice versa. (Kelsey and Kekahuna; Maly)

In the afternoon, however, when shadows fell inland, passers-by kept at a respectful distance behind the pali of ‘Ahuʻula – Feather Cape or Cloak – that enfolded from the rear the low portion of the village between it and the curve of its splendid white sand beach of former days. (Kelsey and Kekahuna; Maly)

Most tabu of all the tabu chiefesses of Keauhou, in her day, was Keōpūolani, whom Kamehameha the Great made his tabu state wife (wahine kapu). (Kelsey and Kekahuna; Maly)

While she was carrying the child several of the chiefs begged to have the bringing up of the child, but she refused until her kahu, Kaluaikonahale, known as Kuakini, came with the same request. (Kamakau)

She bade him be at her side when the child was born lest someone else get possession of it. He was living this side of Keauhou in North Kona, and Keōpūolani lived on the opposite side. (Kamakau)

On the night of the birth the chiefs gathered about the mother. (Kamakau)

The queen-mother had just bathed in the cold water near the southern extremity of Keauhou’s formerly picturesque white sand beach, and a few steps into the sea, where slowly gushed the now mostly destroyed sea-spring of Kuhalalua. (Kelsey and Kekahuna; Maly)

There, in a shallow seat formed by a hollow in the top of a large rock, the mother had sat as she enjoyed her bath. (Kelsey and Kekahuna; Maly)

Suddenly she was seized with her birth pains. Aided by her attendants she struggled to the near-by shore. There, grasping the trunk of a coconut tree to support and sustain her, she gave birth. (Kelsey and Kekahuna; Maly)

Early in the morning, the child was born but as it appeared to be stillborn, Kuakini did not want to take it. (Kamakau)

Then came Kaikioʻewa from some miles away, close to Kuamoʻo, and brought with him his prophet who said, “The child will not die, he will live.” (Kamakau)

This man, Kamaloʻihi or Kapihe by name, came from the Napua line of kahunas descended from Makuakaumana whose god was Kaʻonohiokala (similar to the child of God). (Kamakau)

The child was well cleaned and laid upon a consecrated place and the seer (kaula) took a fan (peʻahi), fanned the child, prayed, and sprinkled it with water, at the same time reciting a prayer addressed to the child of God, something like that used by the Roman Catholics. (Kamakau)

The child began to move, then to make sounds, and at last it came to life. (Kamakau)

The child was named Kauikeaouli, a name from his ancestors, that being the name of his grandfather, Keōua (Keaoua), the one called Kalanikupuapaikalaninui Kauikeaouli. (Kuokoa Home Rula)

This name puts on high the sacred kapu of Keōua – his chiefly kapu extends above and touches the great heavens, and rests upon the dark clouds. (Kuokoa Home Rula)

So therefore, the importance of the names Keaouli and Keaoua, is the dark, black, thick, esteemed cloud. This cloud is a rain cloud. (Kuokoa Home Rula)

An Orator of the old times said that the name Kauikeaouli is the bank of clouds that Kapihe, the prophet, saw spread high in the heavens when he was called to go to see if the child that Keōpūolani gave birth to was alive or not alive. (Kuokoa Home Rula)

The tale of the birth of Kauikeaouli, born seemingly without a spark of life, but who was destined by the narrowest margin to return to this world from the spirit realm, that he might become the great King Kamehameha III. (Kelsey and Kekahuna; Maly)

His exact birth date is not known; however, a generally accepted date is August 11, 1813. Never-the-less, Kauikeaouli was apparently an admirer of Saint Patrick and chose to celebrate his birthday on March 17. (Kauikeaouli died December 15, 1854 (age of 41.))

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Kamehameha_III,_1825
Kamehameha_III,_1825

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Tree of Life

“If a man plant ten breadfruit trees in his life, which he can do in about an hour, he would completely fulfil his duty to his own as well as future generations.” (Joseph Banks, 1769)

Banks had been on the Endeavour with Captain Cook on his first voyage to the South Pacific in 1768-1771.  William Bligh was part of the Cook’s crew on its third voyage when it made contact with Hawaiʻi in 1778.

Bligh later captained the Bounty on a voyage to gather breadfruit trees from Tahiti and take them to Jamaica in the Caribbean. There, the trees would be planted to provide food for slaves.

Bligh didn’t make it back on the Bounty, his crew mutinied (April 28, 1789;) one reason for the mutiny was that the crew believed Bligh cared more about the breadfruit than them (he cut water rationing to the crew in favor of providing water for the breadfruit plants.)  Bligh’s tombstone, in part, reads he was the “first (who) transplanted the bread fruit tree.”

For thousands of years, Ulu (Breadfruit) was a staple food in Oceania.  It is believed to have originated in New Guinea and the Indo-Malay region and was spread throughout the vast Pacific by voyaging islanders.

According to a legend, the chief Kahai brought the breadfruit tree to Hawaiʻi from Samoa in the twelfth century and first planted it at Kualoa, Oʻahu. Only one variety was known in Hawaiʻi, while more than 24 were distinguished by native names in the South Seas.  (CTAHR)

It was a canoe crop – one of around 30 plants brought to the Hawaiian Islands by the Polynesians when they first arrived in Hawaiʻi.

“This tree, whose fruit is so useful, if not necessary, to the inhabitants of most of the islands of the South Seas, has been chiefly celebrated as a production of the Sandwich Islands; it is not confined to these alone, but is also found in all the countries bordering on the Pacific Ocean.”  (Book of Trees, 1837)

Known as ‘Ulu’ in Hawaiʻi and Samoa, ‘Uru’ is the Tahitian word for the tree, ‘Kuru’ in the Cook Islands, and ‘Mei’ in the Marquesas, Tonga and Gambier Islands, scientifically, it’s known as Artocarpus altilis.

William Dampier, claims credit for giving the fruit its English name, breadfruit. His description of it, from his 1688 Voyage Round the World, notes:

“The Bread-fruit (as we call it) grows on a large Tree, as big and high as our largest Apple trees. It hath a spreading head full of branches, and dark leaves. …”

“When the fruit is ripe it is yellow and soft; and the taste is sweet and pleasant. The Natives of this Island use it for bread: they gather it when full grown, while it is green and hard; then they bake it in an Oven, which scorcheth the rind and makes it black:”

“but they scrape off the outside black crust, and there remains a tender thin crust, and the inside is soft, tender and white like the crumb of a Penny Loaf.”

“There is neither seed nor stone in the inside, but it is all of a pure substance like Bread; it must be eaten new; for if its kept above 24 hours, it becomes dry, and eats harsh and choaky; but ’tis very pleasant before it is too stale. The fruit lasts in season 8 months in the year, during which time the Natives eat no other sort of food of Bread kind.”  (Smith)

The breadfruit is multipurpose, it may be eaten ripe as a fruit or under-ripe as a vegetable – it is roasted, baked, boiled, fried, pickled, fermented, frozen, mashed into a puree, and dried and ground into meal or flour.

The Breadfruit Institute at the National Tropical Botanical Garden, Hawai‘i, is engaged in a Global Hunger Initiative to expand plantings of good quality breadfruit varieties in tropical regions.

Click here for a link to the NTBG Breadfruit Institute.

More than 80% of the world’s hungry live in tropical and subtropical regions – this is where breadfruit thrives.  The trees require little attention or care, producing an abundance of fruit with minimal inputs of labor or materials.

Trees begin to bear fruit in three to five years, producing for many decades.  Crop yields are superior to other starchy staples. An average-sized tree will readily produce 100-200 fruit per year.

The Breadfruit Institute manages the world’s largest collection of breadfruit, conserving over 120 varieties. The Institute has developed effective methods to propagate and distribute millions of plants of productive nutrient-rich varieties.

This initiative aims to disseminate breadfruit plants to alleviate hunger and support sustainable agriculture, agroforestry and reforestation in the tropics.

The same can hold true, here at home.

Centuries ago, the Hawaiians recognized breadfruit’s benefit and brought it with them to Hawaiʻi – we can learn from that.

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Pearl Lochs

The island of Oʻahu is divided into 6 moku (districts), consisting of: ‘Ewa, Kona, Koʻolauloa, Koʻolaupoko, Waialua and Waiʻanae. These moku were further divided into 86 ahupua‘a (land divisions within a moku.)

‘Ewa was divided into 12-ahupua‘a, consisting of (from east to west): Hālawa, ‘Aiea, Kalauao, Waimalu, Waiau, Waimano, Mānana, Waiʻawa, Waipi‘o, Waikele, Hōʻaeʻae and Honouliuli.

‘Ewa was at one time the political center for O‘ahu chiefs. This was probably due to its abundant resources that supported the households of the chiefs, particularly the many fishponds. (Cultural Surveys) ʻEwa was the second most productive taro cultivation area on Oʻahu (just behind Waikīkī.)  (Laimana)

The salient feature of ‘Ewa, and perhaps its most notable point of difference, is its spacious coastal plain, surrounding the deep bays (“lochs”) of Pearl Harbor, which are actually the drowned seaward valleys of ‘Ewa’s main streams, Waikele and VVaipi’o.

The Hawaiian name for Pearl Harbor was Ke-awa-lau-o-Pu‘uloa, The-many (lau)-harbors (awa)-of-Pu‘uloa. Pu‘uloa was the rounded area projecting into the sea at the long narrow entrance of the harbor.  Another and more poetic name was Awawa-lei, Garland (lei)-of-harbors.

The English name ‘Pearl’ was given to it because of the prevalence of pearl oysters (pipi) in the deep harbor waters.  (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

In Hawaiian traditions, Pu‘uloa (Pearl Harbor) consists of three distinct awalau, or lochs, including Kaihuopala‘ai (West Loch), Wai‘awa (Middle Loch) and Komoawa (East Loch).  (Nohopapa, KSBE)  For some time, Pearl Harbor was also known as Pearl Lochs and Pearl River.

These bays offered the most favorable locality in all the Hawaiian Islands for the building of fishponds and fish traps into which deep-sea fish came on the inflow of tidal waters. (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

In Hawaiian traditions, Pu‘uloa (Pearl Harbor) consists of three distinct awalau, or lochs, including Kaihuopala‘ai (West Loch), Wai‘awa (Middle Loch) and Komoawa (East Loch).  (Nohopapa, KSBE) 

‘Loch’ is a Scottish and/or Irish term that refers to a lake or bay that is nearly landlocked. So, when and why did the term ‘loch’ come in as names these awalau?

Let’s look back …

Liholiho was the son of Kamehameha I.  Upon his father’s death Liholiho became Kamehameha II. Liholiho’s reign was also noted for his efforts to ensure the lasting independence of the Hawaiian kingdom.

In 1823, Liholiho and his favorite wife, Kamāmalu, sailed to England to meet with King George IV, the first Ali‘i to travel to England.  King George IV scheduled a meeting for June 21, but it had to be delayed; Liholiho and Kamāmalu became ill.  The Hawaiian court had caught measles, to which they had no immunity.

It is believed they probably contracted the disease on their visit to the Royal Military Asylum (now the Duke of York’s Royal Military School).

Virtually the entire royal party developed measles within weeks of arrival, 7 to 10 days after visiting the Royal Military Asylum housing hundreds of soldiers’ children. On the 8th of July the Queen died, a few days later, King Liholiho died.  His reign was approximately 5-years.

In 1824, Great Britain sent the bodies of Kamehameha II and his Queen back to Hawai‘i on the HMS Blonde, under the command of Lord Byron.

The British Government took advantage of this opportunity to acquire more detailed information concerning the islands; and to that end, included in the personnel of the ship a party of scientists.

Among these was a Lieut. Charles Malden, a surveyor, who during the stay of the ship, made a comprehensive and extensive survey of several harbors and roadsteads (offshore ship mooring areas).

One of these surveys was a fairly complete charting of the whole of Pearl Harbor, with soundings taken throughout the entrance channel and the three main lochs. The chart resulting from this survey was printed in 1841 by the British Hydrographic Office. (Navy)

Today, that map is also identified as Registered Map #437, Honolulu Harbor, South Coast of O‘ahu. (A copy of it is included in the album associated with this post.) It seems others replicated the names of the lochs of that 1825 map in what we now refer to as Pearl Harbor.

The answer to the previous question of when and why the awalau were called ‘lochs’ comes from the Diary of James Macrae, who was aboard the Blonde and sailed with Malden.  Macrae wrote,

“Pearl River is about seven miles west of Hanarura, and is improperly called a river, being rather inlets from the sea, branching off in different directions.  There are three chief branches, named by the surveyors, the East, Middle and West Lochs.” (Macrae)

While we are familiar with the East, Middle and West Lochs, there were other areas within Pearl Harbor that were also referred to as lochs: Southeast Loch, West Loch Branch and, later, Magazine Loch, Quarry Loch and Merry Loch.

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