Place Names | Page 29 | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

June 7, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Buried at Sea

“Directly in front of the Archives building in Palace square, Honolulu, is a circular, grassy mound hedged with hibiscus. At or near that mound was situated the royal tomb of the Kamehamehas from about 1825 to 1865.”

“… in that tomb were placed the remains of many famous persons. Here it was that Dr GP Judd concealed the national archives from Lord George Paulet in 1843. It is an historic spot and the visitor to our fair city should be helped in some way to recognize it and know its story.” (McClellan, Advertiser January 26, 1927)

Reportedly, in 1858, Kamehameha IV brought over the ancestral remains of other Aliʻi – coffins and even earlier grave material – out of their original burial caves, and they are buried in Pohukaina.

During the reign of Kamehameha IV, there was talk of building a new royal mausoleum (at the time, Hawaiʻi’s ruling chiefs were buried in the crypt enclosure on the ʻIolani Palace grounds, known as Pohukaina, sometimes called ‘the mound’.)

“When the new Royal Mausoleum at Nuʻuanu Valley was completed in 1865 the remains of all the Kings, Princes and Princesses were removed there ….” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, March 22, 1892)

In 1865, the remains of 21-Ali‘i were removed from Pohukaina and transferred in a torchlight procession at night to Mauna ‘Ala, a new Royal Mausoleum in Nuʻuanu Valley.

“Doubtless the memory is yet green of that never-to-be-forgotten night when the remains of the departed chiefs were removed to the Royal Mausoleum in the valley.”

“Perhaps the world had never witnessed a procession more weird and solemn than that which conveyed the bodies of the chiefs through our streets, accompanied on each side by thousands of people until the mausoleum was reached …”

“… the entire scene and procession being lighted by large kukui torches, while the midnight darkness brought in striking relief the coffins on their biers.” (Kapena, Pacific Commercial Advertiser, January 3, 1880)

“Earth has not seen a more solemn procession what when, in the darkness of the night, the bodies of these chieftains were carried through the streets, which were lined with thousands of people on either side along the whole march ….”

“Not a sound was heard. The flaming torches, made of kukui nuts and of gigantic size, on either side of the procession, made the darkness beyond impenetrable and centred all light upon the procession”. (Harris, Hawaiian Gazette, January 14, 1880)

“(T)he remains of all the kings, princes and princesses were removed there excepting that of Princess Kekāuluohi, mother of Lunalilo.”

“This act of disrespect of Kamehameha V to the remains of his mother made Lunalilo sorely indignant, and he swore that he would not have his remains buried at the Royal Mausoleum.”

“He kept his word. As there was no proper place for the burial of his mother (she died June 7, 1845, at the age of 50,) he ordered his native servants to take the bones of his mother and bury them in the bosom of the deep, where no mortal could disturb them.”

“At the dead of night, the canoe bearing the remains of Kekāuluohi, manned by a crew of native kahu (attendants) left Waikiki. They went to a point many miles off Diamond Head. When they reached the place, prayers (kanaenae) were offered according to the ancient rites of burial.”

“When the ceremony was over, the bones of Kekāuluohi, carefully wrapped up in white clothes, were consigned to the deep. One of the crew … testified that when they threw the royal remains into the ocean, phosphorescent light illuminated the spot, and they could distinctly see the remains descending slowly towards the bottom. …”

“The crew returned from their solemn mission, but they were in honor bound not to reveal the exact position where they buried Kekāuluohi.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, March 22, 1892)

“Before he died … (Lunalilo) willed … that he be buried in the Cemetery (Kawaiahaʻo) with the People who elected him … rather than in the Royal Mausoleum.” (Lunalilo died February 3, 1874 at the age of 39.)

“His Tomb in Kawaiahaʻo Church Yard, not being ready, his remains were temporarily deposited in the Royal Mausoleum … So, Lunalilo had two funerals.”

“The first when he was interred in the Royal Mausoleum (in 1874) and the second on November 23, 1875, when he was removed from there to where his earthly remains rest today.” (Webb; McClellan)

“When the casket of Lunalilo was being carried out of the Royal Mausoleum on November 23, 1875 … a glaring flash of lightning and an earsplitting peal of thunder welcomed it.”

“Volley after volley resounded through the Heavens, and continued until the Royal Burden was safely and reverently placed within the final tomb”.

“When the procession arrived at Kawaiahaʻo Church and just as the casket was entering the tomb, a most terrific clap of thunder burst from a heavy cloud. “

“According to the count of many Hawaiians this was the twenty-first of these thunder-peals and the last was the most thunderous. It sounded as if the whole city of Honolulu had been dashed to ruins and it startled the whole population.”

“We all believed that it was a heavenly recognition of the high rank of our Ali‘i – a discharge from the artillery-of-the-clouds, a royal salute sent from Heaven to honor our beloved sovereign.” (Webb; Galuteria)

Kawaiahao_Church-Lunalilo_Tomb-PP-15-12-023-00001

Kekauluohi-WC

The young Prince William Charles Lunalilo in his teens

Lunalilo Mausoleum-PP-50-11-004-00001

King_Lunalilo

Lunalilo’s_Tomb-(DMYoung)

Mauna Ala Entrance

The_chapel_at_Mauna_‘Ala,_the_Royal_Mausoleum

Mauna_Ala-(DMYoung)

Illustrated_London_News_on_the_Funeral_of_the_King_Lunalilo-1874

Chapel_at_Mauna_‘Ala-interior

June 6, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Operation Overlord – Operation Neptune – Operation Forager

June 6, 1944 was the beginning of the end of WWII in Europe; France at the time was occupied by the armies of Nazi Germany and the combined land, air, and sea forces of the allied armies led to the liberation of France and the later defeat of the Germans.

While we focus on the coast of France, we sometimes overlook events on the other side of the world. That same day, June 6, 1944, a huge attack force cleared Pearl Harbor on its way to invade Japanese positions in the Mariana Islands. (NPR)

The WWII began when Britain and France declared war on Germany on September 15, 1939, following Germany’s invasion of Poland. Then in May 1940, Germany invaded France, Belgium, Holland, Norway and Denmark. A year later, Germany invaded the Soviet Union.

Japan attacked Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941, leading the US top declare war on Japan. Germany, in turn, declared war on the US, bringing America into the war in Europe. WWII was being fought in the Pacific and Atlantic.

For years, Allied leaders and military planners had debated about when, where, and how to land troops in northern Europe. Although plans for such an action had been in the works for years, it was not until December 1943, when General Dwight D Eisenhower was appointed Supreme Commander of the Allied Expeditionary Force, that preparations for the future operation, code named Overlord, intensified.

Although the invasion was delayed with no definite timeline, American troops began arriving in Great Britain in record numbers in 1943. By the end of May 1944, there were more than 1.5 million US Army personnel in the United Kingdom to either participate in or support the cross-Channel action.

For several months prior to the invasion, several thousand Allied bombers and fighters attacked targets from the Pas de Calais to the north to the French port of Cherbourg to the west and more than a hundred miles inland to isolate the Normandy area of operations and hamper the ability of German commanders to reinforce their forces in Normandy once the invasion began.

German High Command had bought into the deceptions of the operation, and fully expected a landing at the Pas de Calais. Planners instead had selected a 50-mile stretch of coastline in Normandy.

The Normandy beaches were chosen by planners because they lay within range of air cover and were less heavily defended than the obvious objective of the Pas de Calais, the shortest distance between Great Britain and the Continent.

The action was planned in two parts. Neptune, the naval component and assault phase, involved moving tens of thousands of Allied troops across the Channel and landing them on the beaches while providing gunfire support. Overlord was pivotal point of the plan – the invasion and the subsequent Battle of Normandy.

Approximately 160,000 Allied soldiers were to land across five beaches code named Sword, Juno, Gold, Omaha, and Utah, while British and American paratroop and glider forces landed inland. Forces landing at each beach would eventually link up, establishing a beachhead from which to further push inland into France.

After numerous delays and major planning changes, D-Day was set for June 5. However, on June 4, as paratroopers prepared to board their aircraft to carry them behind enemy lines, weather conditions deteriorated.

The decision was made to delay 24 hours, requiring part of the naval force bound for Utah beach to return to port. With a small window of opportunity in the weather, Eisenhower made the decision to go – D-Day would be June 6, 1944.

In issuing the Order of the Day, Eisenhower stated, “Soldiers, Sailors and Airmen of the Allied Expeditionary Force! You are about to embark on the Great Crusade, toward which we have striven these many months.”

“The eyes of the world are upon you. The hopes and prayers of liberty-loving people everywhere march with you. In company with our brave Allies and brothers-in-arms on other Fronts, you will bring about the destruction of the German war machine, the elimination of Nazi tyranny over the oppressed peoples of Europe, and security for ourselves in a free world.”

“Your task will not be an easy one. Your enemy is well trained, well equipped and battle-hardened. He will fight savagely. …”

“The tide has turned! The free men of the world are marching together to Victory! I have full confidence in your courage, devotion to duty and skill in battle. We will accept nothing less than full Victory! Good luck! And let us all beseech the blessing of Almighty God upon this great and noble undertaking.”

Total Allied troops who landed in Normandy: 156,115 (including 23,400 Allied airborne troops); Soldiers’ home nations: United States, Britain, Canada, Belgium, Norway, Poland, Luxembourg, Greece, Czechoslovakia, New Zealand and Australia (+177 French commandos).

Total Allied aircraft that supported landings: 11,590; Total naval vessels in Operation Neptune: 6,939 (including Naval combat ships: 1,213; Landing ships / craft: 4,126; Ancillary craft: 736; Merchant vessels: 864 – of the 6,939 ships involved in D-Day, 80 percent were British; 16.5 percent, U.S.; and the rest from France, Holland, Norway and Poland.)

By June 30, over 850,000 men, 148,000 vehicles, and 570,000 tons of supplies had landed on the Normandy shores. Fighting by the brave soldiers, sailors and airmen of the allied forces western front, and Russian forces on the eastern front, led to the defeat of German Nazi forces. On May 7, 1945, German General Alfred Jodl signed an unconditional surrender at Reims, France.

“Many explanations have been given for the meaning of D-Day, June 6, 1944, the day the Allies invaded Normandy from England during World War II. The Army has said that it is ‘simply an alliteration, as in H-Hour.’ Others say the first D in the word also stands for ‘day,’ the term a code designation.”

“The French maintain the D means ‘disembarkation,’ still others say ‘debarkation,’ and the more poetic insist D-Day is short for ‘day of decision.’”

“When someone wrote to General Eisenhower in 1964 asking for an explanation, his executive assistant Brigadier General Robert Schultz answered: ‘General Eisenhower asked me to respond to your letter. Be advised that any amphibious operation has a ‘departed date’; therefore the shortened term ‘D-Day’ is used.”

That response reminds us that the invasion of Normandy on June 6, 1944 was not the only D-Day of World War II. Every amphibious assault – including those in the Pacific, in North Africa, and in Sicily and Italy – had its own D-Day.

While the focus of D-Day is on the coast of France, we sometimes overlook events on the other side of the world. That same day, June 6, 1944, a huge attack force cleared Pearl Harbor on its way to invade Japanese positions in the Mariana Islands. (NPR)

Since the fall of the Marshall Islands to the Americans a few months earlier, both sides began to prepare for an American onslaught against the Marianas and Saipan in particular. The Americans decided that the best course of action was to invade Saipan first, then Tinian and Guam. The Battle of Saipan was under the code name Operation Forager.

The force that headed west across the Pacific may have been smaller in numbers than the armada that gathered off the coast of Normandy, but the US 5th Fleet boasted no fewer than 16 aircraft carriers and more than 900 combat aircraft. The attack group carried two divisions of Marines and one of Army infantry and the stakes of both invasions were similar. (NPR)

In June 1944, Admiral Raymond A Spruance’s 500-ship fleet, carrying about 125,000 Marines and Sailors steamed 1,000 miles from the Western Marshall Islands to the South Mariana Islands. This fleet included most of the Navy’s carriers and battleships, along with many of its transports of the Pacific Fleet.

The Mariana Islands were the last bastion of Japan’s Central Pacific perimeter. Their capture by American Forces severed the Japanese supply lines with the Caroline Islands territories further south and pushed the defense west to the Philippines while opening the Japanese homelands for aerial assaults.

Spruance’s Task Force 58 launched the first of many pre-invasion air sorties on June 11 on Japanese positions, airplanes, and ships. Both fast and escort carriers participated in these attacks that lasted until the capture of Guam on August 10. (Navy)

They set D-day for June 15, when Navy Sailors would deliver Marines and Soldiers to Saipan’s rugged, heavily fortified shores. The Navy’s involvement bookended the operation: naval vessels and personnel ferried Marines and Soldiers to the beaches and then, after ground combat was over, took leading positions in the administration of the occupation.

Japanese resistance proved far greater than anticipated, not least of all because the latest intelligence reports had underestimated troop levels.

In reality, troop levels, in excess of 31,000 men, were as much as double the estimates. For at least a month, Japanese forces had been fortifying the island and bolstering its forces. Although US submarines had managed to sink most of the transports to Saipan from Manchuria, the majority of these troops survived to supplement a full 13,000 men to the 15,000 or so already on site.

“The [Japanese] are coming after us,” Spruance said, and they were bringing with them 28 destroyers, 5 battleships, 11 heavy cruisers, 2 light cruisers, and 9 carriers (5 fleet, 4 light) with somewhere near 500 aircraft total.

The resulting engagement – the Battle of the Philippine Sea of June 19-20 – resulted in a decisive US victory that nearly eliminated Japan’s ability to wage war in the air.

By June 30, the 27th Infantry Division had swept through the hills and then down the valley where it finally destroyed the enemy. Following fighting on the island, the Americans suffered 26,000 casualties (5,000 of which were deaths). Yet the American victory was decisive.

Japan’s National Defense Zone, demarcated by a line that the Japanese had deemed essential to hold in the effort to stave off US invasion, had been blown open. Japan’s access to scarce resources in Southeast Asia was now compromised.

The cost of this campaign was great: over 16,500 casualties, including almost 3,500 killed. The Marine units suffered close to 13,000 casualties.

Although the price for victory was high, the seizure of Saipan was a highly significant step forward in the advance on the Japanese home islands. The island became the first B-29 base in the Pacific. The war had reached a new turning point.

Some highly-placed Japanese felt that their defeat on Saipan signified the beginning of the end of the Empire. (Marine Corps University) (Lots of information here is from US Army, Navy and Marines, Department of Defense, Eisenhower Library and British Imperial War Museums.)

June 3, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Fairy

Victoria (named after Queen Victoria) Kaʻiulani Kawekiu I Lunalilo Kalaninuiahilapalapa Cleghorn was the only child of Princess Miriam Likelike (the sister to King Kalākaua and Queen Liliʻuokalani) and Archibald Scott Cleghorn, a Scottish businessman.

At the age of 15, Kaʻiulani was proclaimed Crown Princess of Hawaiʻi by Queen Liliʻuokalani and was a future ruler of Hawaiʻi. (KSBE)

One of her godmothers, Princess Ruth Keʻelikōlani, gave her the famed 10-acre Waikīkī estate, ‘Āinahau, as a birthday. Originally called Auaukai, Princess Likelike (Kaʻiulani’s mother) named it ʻĀinahau; Princess Kaʻiulani spent most of her life there.

The family built a two-story home on the estate. At first the home was used only as a country estate, but Princess Kaʻiulani’s family loved it so much, it soon became their full-time residence. They built a stable for their horses.

“Princess Kaiulani was a thoughtful young lady, but always frank and candid. She was intensely devoted to the out of doors. It was the same from the time she was a little girl up to a few days before her death.”

“She was a skillful horsewoman. She liked both riding and driving. For driving she had a double rig and a single rig and generally handled the lines herself.”

“As a little girl she was a splendid swimmer and the old natives along the Waikiki beach will willingly tell you how the young alii would always go further out into the breakers than any one else. …”

“The Princess had at Ainahau a tribe of peafowls and everyone of the birds would eat from her hands. She admired them very much, made a study of them.” (PCA, March 13, 1899)

“But if Ka’iulani truly loved anything nonhuman at ‘Ainahau, it was her snow-white riding pony, Fairy. By age seven she was an accomplished equestrian.”

“She was often seen riding, accompanied by a groom, to visit Diamond Head Charlie at the lookout (from which he alerted O’ahu of arriving ships), or into town, where she would visit ‘Uncle John’ Cummins, one of Honolulu’s leading citizens, who she was certain had the best cows on the island.” (Sharon Linnea)

First Miss Barnes, then Miss Gertrude Gardinier, and later Miss de Alcald served as governesses to Kaʻiulani. Kaʻiulani’s governess, Miss Barnes, of whom the family was very fond, died unexpectedly in 1883.

Replacements were tired, but the arrival of Gertrude Gardinier from New York changed that. Kaʻiulani’s mother, Likelike, approved immediately and the young Kaʻiulani and Miss Gardinier took to each other immediately.

The earliest hand written letter written by the hand of Princess Ka‘iulani was a May 13, 1885 letter to her new governess’s mother. In part, Ka‘iulani wrote, “Miss Gardinier and I are going to ride horseback some day when she learns to.”

“I have a pretty little pony of my own and I am not afraid to ride it. My pony is only four years old, and I am nine years old. Goodbye, from Ka’iulani Cleghorn.”

At the age of 13, Princess Kaʻiulani sailed to Europe to begin her education abroad; she spent the next eight years studying and traveling in Europe.

“When Kaiulani left for England her saddle pony ‘Fairy’ was turned out to pasture. It remained resting till she returned and she mounted its back the first day she was in the Islands again. ‘Fairy’ she called the beast to the last.” (PCA, March 13, 1899)

Later, Ka‘iulani had gone to the Waimea on the Big Island to visit Helen and Eva Parker, daughters of Samuel “Kamuela” Parker (1853–1920,) grandson of John Parker (founder of the Parker Ranch.)

While attending a wedding at the ranch, she and the girls had gone out riding horseback on Parker Ranch; they encountered a rainstorm. She became ill; she and her family returned to O‘ahu.

Tragically, after a two-month illness, Princess Kaʻiulani died on March 6, 1899 at her home, ʻĀinahau, at age 23. It is said that the night she died, her peacocks screamed so loud that people could hear them miles away and knew that she had died.

“The birds have been acting as if they were wondering why she was neglecting them and so have the horses. Old, faithful ‘Fairy’ deserted for the second and last time by his mistress simply mopes around.” (PCA, March 13, 1899)

May 20, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Crossing Anahulu Stream

When the Reverend John Emerson and his wife Ursula arrived in Hawai‘i in 1832, they were assigned to establish an American Protestant missionary station in Waialua. (Clark)

“[T]wo new houses are building which we shall occupy as soon as they are finished. Only a few rods from them is a fine spring of running water, which feeds a small river large enough for canoes.”

“This is the Anahulu which, bending and broadening, empties about a third of a mile away into Waialua Bay, where the ocean waves roll in upon a sandy beach.” “The home was known thereafter as ‘Waipuolo,’ ‘The Bubbling Spring.’” (Emerson)

“The Anahulu river (cave of the hulu – a kind of fish) is a narrow estuary averaging forty feet wide, which makes up from Waialua Bay a mile or more to the mouth of the Kawailoa stream.”

“On its opposite banks were two homes facing each other. On one side were the Gulicks, and on the other the Emersons. In each family there were seven boys and a younger sister, the Gulicks ranging three or four years older than the Emersons.” (Emerson)

Later it was found that a “need of the Waialua farmers was easier access to the Honolulu market, which could only be reached by a horse-trail leading through deep gulches and streams, or by small coasters that had to contend with currents and baffling winds.”

“Accordingly, after much urging, it was decided by the Government to develop the horse-trail into a road and bridge the streams. Of course this work required supervision. The only man at hand who could plan it and handle both native and white workmen, was my father, so he was asked to add to his other duties that of being the road supervisor of the district.”

“During the two years my father held this office, the road up and down the sides of five gulches was graded and made fit for carriages and oxcarts, and over the streams five bridges were built. Eighteen miles of roadway were constructed to connect with the road already built from Honolulu to Ewa.”

“Some of the time my father had a gang of fifty or more natives under him making the road, and several white carpenters at work building the bridges. When all was finished, business in Waialua began to boom.” (Emerson)

Later, “the law declares that vehicles weighing more than 15 tons shall not cross public bridges or traverse public roads … (Star Bulletin, July 22, 1915) The bridge crossing Anahulu Stream in Haleiwa was designed to carry horse-drawn carriages. (Griffin)

Then, “traffic was stopped … when the Anahulu bridge between Waialua and Waialee collapsed under the weight of a twenty two ton plow tractor owned by the Waialua plantation.” (Hawaiian Gazette, July 20, 1915)

Around-the-island traffic stopped, “The Anahulu bridge, over the Anahulu stream at Waialua on the main road between Haleiwa and Kahuku; will be closed to traffic until further notice.” (Star Bulletin, July 20, 1915)

Then a new reinforced concrete bridge was planned across Anahulu Stream. George E Marshall was given a $62,000 contract to build the double arched span (each 80 feet long). (Advertiser, Aug 26, 1920)

During construction, the bridge was almost lost. “Working in the pouring rain from 9 o’clock Thursday night to 2 o’clock Friday morning, a gang of workmen directed by George e Marshall saved the new Haleiwa bridge, for which Marshall is the contractor, from probable destruction.”

“[T]he stream, usually low, became a raging torrent due to the kona storm, and was fully 100 yards wide and 10 feet deep. Masses of sugar cane, wooden flumes, boards and debris of various kinds were buried against the bridge by the storm waters and desperate work was necessary to keep the debris from backing up the flood.” (Star Bulletin, Dec 27, 1920)

The bridge later faced a different threat, “The old bridge channels through itself all the life around it. Spanning the Anahulu River, it pulls together the banks of Haleiwa.”

“It remembers the old and sees the new. Its too-narrow arches funnel the tide of progress filtering through the town. ‘Slow down’ it says ‘look at me.’ Built in 1921 when Haleiwa was a sleepy town, the bridge tries to lessen the pace of the traffic it channels through the still sleepy town.”

“The bridge still hears the plop of boots through the taro patches and the lap of waves against the orange and white sampans. The shrill whistle of the cane train is gone, and the clanking rumble of the Tournahauler is fading.”

“The bridge heard the Big-City folk call its neighboring buildings ‘delapidated’ but only scoffed. ‘Old things are good things,’ it said. ‘They allow the old to remember and the young to learn.’

“The bridge feels the surge of the tide below and the stain of red mud on its once-white arches. It feels the weight of small boys jeering the long tour cars or quietly fishing.”

“As the new small boat harbor was carved into the earth at its side, the bridge watched in wonder. Man diverted its river. Man cut off a chunk of the ocean for quiet waters. Man could easily have blown up the too-narrow bridge. Fortunately he didn’t.”

“Beautification once meant to the bridge a new coat of white paint. Now it may mean survival to the matron of Haleiwa, the guardian of the rotting buildings.”

“Like all structures the bridge once faced destruction in the face of bigger and more modern thoroughfares. But plans were changed. The new highway that will bring new faces in search of recreation will pass through Haleiwa nearer the mountains.”

“The old Kamehameha Highway will become a scenic route, a roadway of the past, if the young people of Haleiwa have their way.”

“The rebuilding and new construction in Haleiwa will take on a theme, so have decided the young men who once fished from the bridge. The most dominant scene will be the harbor, the sampans, the fishing village. The other scene, further up the river, will be the taro patches, the small riverside vegetable farms.”

“The new life that grows up along the shores of the river and beaches will share the laziness and quiet of the old life. And standing as a guardian between the two scenes will be the bridge, listening, seeing, feeling.” (Star Bulletin, Feb 14, 1967)

Due to its shape, it earned the name ‘Rainbow Bridge’ – a little more appealing that its technical name, ‘Kamehameha Highway Bridge #603.’ It is one of the most recognized symbols of Hale‘iwa. (Historic Hawai‘i Foundation)

May 7, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Fur Desert

By the sixteenth century, dozens of bands of people lived in present-day Oregon, with concentrated populations along the Columbia River, in the western valleys, and around coastal estuaries and inlets. (Robbins)

Captain James Cook’s Third Voyage to the Pacific in the 1770s took him to the Pacific Northwest Coast. After Cook was killed in Hawai‘i, his associate George Vancouver continued to explore and chart the Northwest Coast. Commercial traders soon followed, exchanging copper, weapons, liquor, and varied goods for sea otter pelts. (Barbour)

The fur trade was the earliest and longest-enduring economic enterprise in North America. It had an unbroken chain spanning three centuries. During the 1540s on the St. Lawrence River, Jacques Cartier traded European goods, such as axes, cloth, and glass beads, to Indians.

In 1670, King Charles II of England granted a royal charter to create the Hudson’s Bay Company (HBC), under the governorship of the king’s cousin Prince Rupert of the Rhine. According to the Charter, the HBC received rights to:

“The sole Trade and Commerce of all those Seas, Streights, Bays, Rivers, Lakes, Creeks, and Sounds, in whatsoever Latitude they shall be, that lie within the entrance of the Streights commonly called Hudson’s Streights …”

“together with all the Lands, Countries and Territories, upon the Coasts and Confines of the Seas, Streights, Bays, Lakes, Rivers, Creeks and Sounds, aforesaid, which are not now actually possessed by any of our Subjects, or by the Subjects of any other Christian Prince or State …”

“and that the said Land be from henceforth reckoned and reputed as one of our Plantations or Colonies in America, called Rupert’s Land.”

The Royal Charter of 1670 granted “the Governor and Company of Adventurers of England trading into Hudson Bay” exclusive trading rights over the entire Hudson Bay drainage system. It named the area Rupert’s Land in honor of Prince Rupert, cousin to King Charles II and HBC’s first Governor.

Native people provided furs and hides as well as food, equipment, interpreters, guides and protection in exchange for European, Asian, and American manufactures. A primary object of the terrestrial fur trade was beaver, the soft underfur of which was turned into expensive and sought-after beaver hats.

In quest of “soft gold” (beaver, otter, and other lightweight and highly valuable fine furs), which created fortunes large and small for lucky entrepreneurs, the fur hunters’ rosters included capable explorers who expanded the fur trade’s theater of operations and also shed light on western geography. (Barbour)

Traders drafted many useful maps and wrote reports meant to help their governments secure geopolitical objectives. Similarly, by providing quarters, protection, and aid to scientists and artists at isolated trading posts, fur traders supported the study of Native Nations and natural history. (Barbour)

Later, the North American fur trade became the earliest global economic enterprise. The maritime fur trade focused on acquiring furs of sea otters, seals and other animals from the Pacific Northwest Coast and Alaska. The furs were to be mostly sold in China in exchange for tea, silks, porcelain and other Chinese goods to be sold in Europe and the US.

Europe’s interest in the North Pacific quickened in the last quarter of the eighteenth century, as Spanish, British, French, Russian, and eventually ships from the United States came into increasing contact with Native people in coastal estuaries. (Robbins)

Following the American Revolution, the new nation needed money and a vital surge in trade. In 1787, a group of Boston merchants decided to send two ships on a desperate mission around Cape Horn and into the Pacific Ocean, to establish new trade with China, settle an outpost on territory claimed by the Spanish and find the legendary Northwest Passage.

By the close of the eighteenth century, the Northwest Coast had become a place with an emerging global economy. (Robbins) Needing supplies in their journey, the traders soon realized they could economically barter for provisions in Hawai‘i; for instance any type of iron, a common nail, chisel or knife, could fetch far more fresh fruit meat and water than a large sum of money would in other ports.

A triangular trade network emerged linking the Pacific Northwest coast, China and the Hawaiian Islands to Britain and the United States (especially New England).

The growing competition on the continent became concerning to the Hudson’s Bay Company and it sought to separate its land. The Oregon Country had not become important to the HBC until 1821, when the HBC merged with the rival North West Company.

The HBC accepted the inevitable loss of most of the region to the Americans and focused on retaining the area bounded by the Columbia River on the south and east, the Pacific Ocean on the west, and the forty-ninth parallel on the north, an area encompassing potential Puget Sound ports and the transportation route provided by the Columbia River.

The HBC developed the idea of clearing the Snake River Basin of beaver in order to create a fur desert, or buffer zone, that would discourage the westward flow of American trappers who began to reach the Northern Rockies in substantial numbers in the 1820s.

The fur desert policy began in response to a territorial dispute over the Oregon Country. The Americans sought control of the entire region. The HBC’s experiences across northern North America had taught a painful lesson: competition depleted beaver trapping grounds and, therefore, profits.

During a visit to the Columbia District to determine its usefulness to the HBC, HBC leader George Simpson carried the idea one step further. He wrote in an 1824 journal entry:

“If properly managed no question exists that it would yield handsome profits as we have convincing proof that the country is a rich preserve of Beaver and which for political reasons we should endeavor to destroy as fast as possible.” The fur desert policy had begun.

To protect its interest, between then and 1841, the Hudson’s Bay Company carried out what is known as the fur desert policy – a strategy of clearing the basin of beaver to keep encroaching Americans from coming west of the Continental Divide. (Ott)

The HBC assembled varied groups (brigades) of trappers to go into the Snake Country to trap in the region. Each chief trader who led the Snake Country expeditions during the most important years, from 1823 to 1841, worked under the pressure of the HBC’s expectations of good pelt returns, the exclusion of Americans from the region, and the trapper’s return in time to meet the annual supply ship.

During the critical years when the policy was in place, the HBC took approximately 35,000 beaver out of the region. The 1823 – 1824 brigade alone yielded 4,500 beaver. By 1834, the average annual yield was down to 665 beaver. (Ott)

If there remained any doubt that the trappers intended to “ruin” the rivers and streams, the journals clarify their goal for the area. At the Owhyhee River in 1826, Ogden added this comment to the end of his daily entry: “This day 11 Beaver 1 Otter we have now ruined this quarter we may prepare to Start.”

Two weeks later, at the Burnt River, Ogden wrote George Simpson: “the South side of the South branch of the Columbia [the Snake River] has been examined and now ascertained to be destitute of Beaver.” (Ott)

Through their use of efficient Snake Country trapping brigades, the HBC nearly eradicated beaver in the region and, in the process, redefined the physical space in which people would live.

“From the start, there is a sense that trapping exceeded the resilience of the local beaver population. As time passed, the ransacking done by the trappers produced a widespread effect. The effects of American and Indian trapping also contributed to the success of the fur desert policy.” (Ott)