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August 22, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Henrik Christian L’Orange

L’Orange is a Norwegian family of French origin. The family were Huguenots (Protestants), and after the repeal of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, members of the family had to leave France.

The first known man of the family, Jean L’Orange, who according to tradition came from St.-Quentin in Gascogne , probably came to Copenhagen at the end of the 17th century. His son Johan Gerhard L’orange (1696–1772) came to Norway and settled in Vestfold.  (Norwegian Encyclopedia)

Fast forward to the end of the American Civil War in 1865; emigration from Norway to the US increased rapidly.  But there were some who chose other destinations. 

In 1877, Hendrik Christian (Christian) L’Orange (born in Fredrikshald in 1843) married Caroline Faye (born in Drammen in 1856), daughter of merchant Hans Peter Faye and his wife Karen Sophie Knudsen in Drammen.  (Emigrantforlaget)

Following their wedding Christian and Caroline sailed for the islands of Hawai‘i in 1877.   Her cousin, Anton Faye, also sailed with them to Kauai in 1877.  Caroline’s uncle, Valdemar Knudsen, had already settled there in 1856. 

Knudsen, Faye and L’Orange got involved in the operation of a sugar plantation on Kauai. (Scandinavian Club of Hawai‘i)  Knudsen had  acquired a 30-year lease on crown lands in the Waimea district where he established a ranch. Using an old Hawaiian ditch at Waiele, he drained and reclaimed about 50 acres on which he and L‘Orange planted sugar cane in 1878. (HSPA)

In 1879 Christian purchased his own plantation on Maui. He named it Lilikoi. He later sold the plantation and moved to Kauai. There he became the director of a sugar plantation, which was also given the name Lilikoi. (Norwegian Heritage)

As early as July 7, 1878, Captain L’Orange proposed to the Bureau of Immigration of the Hawaiian Kingdom to bring Scandinavian laborers to the Islands. By mid-June of 1880 he was involved in plans to go to Norway for contract workers to fill the needs of plantations represented by the sugar factors, Castle and Cooke.  (Satrum)

By July 20, 1880, he had received his letter of appointment as agent of the Bureau of Immigration, and a few weeks later was on his way to Norway with a letter of credit for $20,000 from the firm of Castle and Cooke for expenses and advances.

Captain L’Orange had Instructions to hire not more than 400 adult workers, in a ratio of 35 to 40 women to each 100 men. These people were to be of ‘proper class’ and good workers, and no family was to bring more than two children. (Satrum)

A long depression from the mid-1870s to the early 1890s hit the Norwegian economy severely. Signs of the stagnation could be found in the large-scale immigration from Norway to North America during the 1880s. In the long-run, immigration was basically a result of increased labor productivity in the primary sector, causing surplus labor to find jobs in the New World. (Grytten)

Thousands were leaving Norway for other lands. This occurred at a time when there was actually a demand for more farm laborers in Hawai‘i. These circumstances partially determined who would be in the mix of people signing contracts as Hawaiian plantation workers. (Satrum)

L’Orange placed an advertisement in Drammen, Norway newspapers, stating, in part, “To the Emigrants for the Sandwich Islands Contracts with those who will go to the Sandwich Islands, are drawn up and signed on Wednesday, Sept. 23 … The parties must be provided with good recommendations, and attestations for good and faultless behaviour.”

“The conditions are now regulated, and thus fixed: laborers over 20 years, 9 dollars; under 20 years, somewhat less, per month, with free board, or board-money and free lodgings, families may bring two children with them. Free passage and board, which Is not to be worked out afterwards. Chr. L’Orange, Agent for the Hawaiian Bureau of Immigration, Sandwich Islands”.

The idea of a paid voyage and an opportunity to make their fortunes in a new land had an irresistible appeal to many Drammen folk that difficult year of 1880. Norwegians by the thousands were flocking to the US in response to promises of free land or jobs.

However, some were unable to raise the passage money, or unwilling to risk their savings on the gamble of a better life in a new country. To these the phrase, ‘free passage and board, which Is not to be worked out afterwards,’ had a special attraction. (Davis)

The planters were eager for the new laborers to arrive quickly, though Captain L’Orange warned that it would be impossible to find suitable ones in a hurry. The great need in Hawai‘i was for men to work in the fields. (Davis)

When L’Orange began hiring he found men with farm experience difficult to obtain. But there were plenty of artisans and industrial workers from the towns eager to sign his contracts, and from these came most of the recruits for Hawai‘i. (Davis)

Most of the recruits were from the town of Drammen or from nearby areas; but there were a few Swedes as well.  The Norwegian bark Beta, commanded by Captain Kasper Rist Christensen, was first to weigh anchor (October 27, 1880). Almost 400 people made up the passenger list – 327 adults, Including 49 married couples, and 69 children 12 years and younger. (Davis)

The ship stopped briefly at Lahaina to take on board Captain L’Orange, who had traveled by a quicker route than the emigrants, and then went on to Ma‘alaea Landing. On February 18, 1881, it let down Its anchor.

On arrival, “The physician of the Board of Health pronounces them the most healthy company of men, women, and children he has ever seen and affirms that they are without the slightest taint of infectious diseases. The planters, who are so fortunate to obtain these laborers, highly value their adaptability by skill, as well as by physical strength, for almost every kind of work of plantations.”

“There are amongst them carpenters, blacksmiths, upholsterers, harness makers, printers, and engineers, while many of the women are admirably adapted for housekeepers.” (Hawaiian Gazette, March 2, 1881)

Two hundred and twenty eight adults with their children drew numbers assigning them to Maul. Passengers not included among this number remained on board to be trans-shipped at the end of the week to Hilo by the steamer Llkelike for work on the Hitchcock plantation is Pāpa’ikou. (Davis)

The German bark, ‘Musca’ sailed from Drammen for Hawai‘i, November 23, 1880. Its master was Captain DW Oltman, and it carried 237 passengers, including 29 married and 57 children 12 and under.  Arriving in Honolulu on the island of O‘ahu, most of the workers were assigned to a variety of plantations. (Satrum)

The German bark, ‘Cedar’ arrived in Hawai‘i on July 18, 1881, primarily with Germans hired to work in the plantations of Hawai‘i, although there were ten Norwegians and four Swedes on the ship as well. One child was also born during the voyage. (Satrum)

So far, it is good news for the Hawai‘i sugar planters and the Norwegian workers.  However, things soon soured …

On both Maui and the Big Island, the Scandinavians had begun complaining almost immediately: They didn’t like the food, they didn’t like their houses, they didn’t like their wages, they felt their employers violated their contracts, they found field work difficult, the Hawaiian sun burned their flesh unmercifully.

Many of the new immigrants declared, flatout, that they’d become slaves. By the time the Musca landed in Honolulu, the folks at Castle & Cooke wanted to scatter the latest contingent of Scandinavians as widely as possible so that they couldn’t band together in their complaints. … But the complaints continued. (Bowman)

For most of the Scandinavians, Hawai‘i was a place to leave as soon as it was possible. It is estimated that about 50 of the immigrants who came to the Islands aboard the Beta and the Musca remained in Hawai‘i.

Some of them stayed on the plantations and moved rapidly out of field work and into positions that took advantage of their industrial skills. Some became integrated into the fabric of Hawai‘i and led successful lives. Christian L’Orange found himself decidedly unpopular with his fellow sugar planters and disbanded his activities on Maui.  (Bowman)

Around 1885 the family moved to Florida. One of the reasons that they left Hawai‘i was, without a doubt, all the criticism he had received for having brought such ill-suited laborers to work on the plantations there.

He bought property in Florida and became a tobacco farmer. Christian died in Florida in 1916. Caroline was buried in Hawai‘i in 1935.  Their oldest son, Hans Peter Faye L’Orange (born in 1892 in Florida), became one of the administrators of O‘ahu Sugar Company. (Norwegian Heritage)

© 2024 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: Economy, Place Names, Prominent People Tagged With: Hawaii, LOrange, Norwegian, Scandinavian, Beta, Henrick Christian L'Orange

August 16, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Hot Spot

Kupuna means elder, grandparent or ancestor. The islands to the northwest of the main Hawaiian Islands have been referred to as the Kupuna Islands. The Hawaiian chain is made up of volcanic islands.

Kilauea Volcano has been erupting since 1983. Mauna Loa is also an active volcano. Off the coast, to the southeast, Kamaʻehuakanaloa Seamount (previously known as Loʻihi) is forming. (It is currently about 3,000-feet below sea level and is estimated to emerge above sea level in the next 10,000 to 100,000 years.)

Some of the other recent eruptions include Hualālai that last erupted in 1801; Haleakala that last erupted in about 1790 and Mauna Kea that last erupted about 4,000 years ago. (SOEST) (The first three volcanoes are considered ‘active’ and the latter three ‘dormant.’)

Hawaiʻi sits over a ‘hot spot,’ the Hawaiian hot spot.

It’s one hot spot, but lots of volcanoes have formed over it. The Islands are above a moving sea floor of the North Pacific Ocean (the Pacific Ocean is mostly floored by a single tectonic plate known as the “Pacific Plate.”)

The Pacific Plate is moving over the layer in the Earth known as the Asthenosphere. This movement takes it to the northwest. As the plate moves over a fixed spot deeper in the Earth where magma (molten lava) forms, a new volcano can punch through this plate and create an island.

As the plate moves away, the volcano stops erupting and a new one is formed in its place. With time, the volcanoes keep drifting westward and getting older relative to the one active volcano that is over the hot spot.

As they age, the crust that they sit on cools and subsides. This, combined with erosion of the islands, once active volcanism stops, leads to a shrinking of the islands with age and their eventual submergence below the ocean surface.

Each island is made up of at least one primary volcano, although many islands are composites of more than one. The Big Island, for instance, is constructed of 5 major volcanoes: Kilauea, Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea, Hualālai and Kohala (the island is still growing, but is basically about 400,000-years old.)

Maui is made up of two volcanoes, Haleʻākala and West Maui (about 1.32-million years ago.) Kahoʻolawe and Lānaʻi were each formed by a single volcano of their respective names.

Molokai was formed by East and West Molokai volcanoes (about 1.8-million years ago.) Oʻahu is also formed by two, Koʻolau and Waianae (about 3-million years ago.) Kauai and Niʻihau were formed by volcanoes of their respective Island names (about 5.1-million years ago.)

They are all part of the Hawaiian-Emperor Volcanic Chain. About 40-million years ago, the Pacific Plate changed direction from north to northwest – so the Emperor Seamounts run more north-south, the Hawaiian Ridge north-westerly.

Midway Island is 27.7-million years old; Meiji Seamount the northern part of the Emperor Seamount (near the end of the Aleutian chain) is about 80-million years old.

All of these are still youngsters, when you look at the perspective, say, of the dinosaurs. The Islands weren’t even a glimmer in anyone’s eyes when dinosaurs walked the Earth; sixty-five million years ago the last of the non-avian dinosaurs went extinct, after living on Earth for about 165-million years. (USGS)

If all of Earth time from the very beginning of the dinosaurs to today were compressed into 365 days (1 calendar year), the dinosaurs appeared January 1 and became extinct the third week of September.

Using this same time scale, the Earth would have formed approximately 18.5-years earlier. By comparison, people have been on earth only since December 31 (New Year’s eve.) (USGS)

When I was at DLNR, President George W Bush created the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands Marine National Monument on June 15, 2006. Seeking a more appropriate Hawaiian name for the monument, suggestions for a name change were submitted.

We selected the name Papahanaumokuakea; it was submitted by Pua Kanahele. Pua and the First Lady, Laura Bush, attended the ceremony announcing the new name (March 2, 2007.)

The Kumulipo, the creation chant, tells of the history of how all life forms came and evolved from Papahanaumokuakea, beginning with the coral polyp – the building block for all life.

Papahanaumoku is a mother figure personified by the earth and Wakea is a father figure personified in the expansive sky; the two are honored and highly recognized ancestors of Native Hawaiian people.

Their union resulted in the creation, or birthing, of the entire Hawaiian archipelago. The naming of the monument is to honor and preserve these names, to strengthen Hawaii’s cultural foundation and to ground Hawaiians to an important part of their history.

Thus, the genealogy of Papahanaumokuakea tells the story of Native Hawaiians’ ancestral connection with the gods who created those coral polyps, the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands or Kūpuna Islands, and everything else in the archipelago. (Lots of information here from the UH-Manoa SOEST, USGS and Papahanaumokuakea.)

© 2024 Hoʻokuleana LLC

Hawaiian Ridge - Emperor Seamounts
Hawaiian Ridge – Emperor Seamounts
NWHI_Map-noting Kure
NWHI_Map-noting Kure
Loihi-compared to Hawaii Island
Loihi-compared to Hawaii Island
Papahanaumokuakea-Marine-National-Monument-Map
Papahanaumokuakea-Marine-National-Monument-Map
hawaiimap-loihi-SOEST
hawaiimap-loihi-SOEST
Hawaiian Islands - Emperor Seamounts
Hawaiian Islands – Emperor Seamounts
Hawaiian Archipelago
Hawaiian Archipelago
Age of Islands-map
Age of Islands-map
Hawaiian- Emperor Seamounts
Hawaiian- Emperor Seamounts
3D of Kamaʻehuakanaloa (Lo'ihi)
3D of Kamaʻehuakanaloa (Lo’ihi)
Papahanaumokuakea Naming Ceremony-postcard-signed by Pua Kanahele-03-02-2007
Papahanaumokuakea Naming Ceremony-postcard-signed by Pua Kanahele-03-02-2007
TectonicPlates
TectonicPlates
Plates
Plates
Hawaiian Islands for space-NASA
Hawaiian Islands for space-NASA

Filed Under: Place Names Tagged With: Hawaii, Papahanaumokuakea Marine National Monument, Hot Spot, Loihi, Kamaehuakanaloa

August 13, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Waihī Nui

“Manoa valley ends in what is called ‘the pen.’ It has walls with a trail into Pauoa valley.” (Towse)  “Rocky, wooded ridges enclose it to right and left, and straight ahead is the black, sheer face of Konahuanui.”  (Loomis)

Translated “his large seeds (testicles,)” the name Kōnāhuanui is said to come from a story summarized by T Kelsey: “when a man, probably a giant, chased a woman who escaped into a cave, he tore off his testes and threw them at her”.    (Kawaharada)

Kōnāhuanui is the highest peak in the Koʻolau Mountains and is the northwest corner of the Mānoa Ahupua‘a boundary. It was the home of the gods Kāne and Kanaloa.

It is also home to a moʻo goddess, a large mythic lizard that lives in freshwater pools and streams. Rain clouds gather around its peak, and its Kona side, often ribboned with waterfalls, is the wettest area of Honolulu: here is the source of the waters of Mānoa and Nuʻuanu valleys.

“[T]his cul-de-sac at its makai, or southern, angle, along the stream called ‘Aihualama. The trail into Nu‘uanu opened at its upper left, or northwestern, angle. Here was a good path for a kama‘aina going alone from valley to valley”.  (Loomis)

In an 1882 map of Manoa prepared by Baldwin, there are several waterfalls back in the valley, including, Waiihi-nui (Waihī Nui), Waihii-iki (Waihī Iki), Luaaulaea and Naniuapo.

“[T]he ground rises rapidly for a few rods, to a thicket of hibiscus and eugenia, at the foot of a magnificent mountain, exhibiting from the base to its summit a perpendicular height of a thousand feet – as rich a variety of projecting cliff and wild recess, of dripping rocks and mantling foliage, of graceful creeper, pendant shrub, and splendid flower, as Arcadia itself can boast.” (Stewart)

“On the curve of high cliffs at the mauka boundary of Manoa sheer white splashes of waterfall filled pools hidden from the casual eye in recesses where Kaahumanu herself loved to bathe among cool winds and soft air laden with fragrance of awapuhi and maile.” (Damon)

The water from these falls converge into Manoa Stream. Mānoa Valley formerly supported a large population with scores of lo‘i kalo that were watered by the many freshwater streams. (ASM)

“When we had seen the piece of land appropriated by Kalaimoku or Mr. Pitt to our use, and had given directions to the natives who cultivated the taro on the land, we indulged ourselves with a pleasant bath in a cooling stream that waters the valley, and we returned across a part of the mountain which lies between that place and Honoruru valley.” (Missionaries Chamberlain, Loomis, Blatchely and Bingham; Damon)

“The taro patches that followed the stream bed down the center of the valley were now either vegetable gardens, pasture land, or abandoned. … AIso much of the stream’s water had been diverted for the use of the island’s increasing population. The taro farms that were in the valley from the time the first foreign observer stepped into it were gone for good.” (DeLeon)

“In 1919 the Hawaii Sugar Planters’ Association established an experimental substation in the rear of the valley. Here sugar cane was raised for experimental purposes. Trees from all over the Pacific were also brought to the substation to see how they would adapt to the Hawaiian environment. The substation became Lyon Arboretum, which is part of the University of Hawaii.” (DeLeon)

There is something about falling water that fascinates a human being.

As noted above, here is Waihī Nui (‘trickling water’), Mānoa Falls. It’s in the backyard of Hawai‘i’s largest population and visitor destination. A bus line takes you within walking distance to the trailhead.

It is one of the most popular trail destinations on O‘ahu; Mānoa Falls sees an average of 200,000 visitors annually.  (DLNR)  The Mānoa Falls Trail is part of DLNR’s Na Ala Hele Trail & Access Program.

The video (done by DLNR) shows people down by the falls.  Don’t go there; rather, there is a viewing area contained by a rock wall at the falls – heed all warning and other signs, do not go beyond the rock wall.

The State does not charge a fee to hike this trail. The Mānoa Falls Trail is open seven days a week – sunup to sundown. The parking lot is managed by Paradise Park and is not associated with the management of the state trail.

The beginning of the trail goes through a shipping container into a big open lush field used as a location for many movies. The trail continues past the field, then crosses over a natural wood footbridge through a grove of Eucalyptus trees.

The 0.8-mile trail (each way) gradually ascends through a rainforest that eventually transitions into bamboo. There is a low-lying rest area on the right of the trail with benches, interpretive sign and tree arch throne.

Continue up ascending gravel terrace steps until you round the corner that reveals the water fall from a distance. On the left you will another rest stop with a bench and interpretive sign. There is one more short section of terrace steps that leads up to a nice flat section of trail that gently takes all the way to small section of cement steps.

Ascend up the steps and now you are at the falls viewing area. On your left is a bench and viewing area is straight ahead. The viewing area is contained by a rock wall.

Signs are posted indicating to not go beyond that point, and of the potential danger of landslide. Do not go beyond the rock wall viewing area, closed area signs or into pool area or to upper pools.  (DLNR)

© 2024 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: General, Hawaiian Traditions, Place Names Tagged With: Hawaii, Manoa, Manoa Falls, Waihi Nui

August 12, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kalaupapa

“The Makanalua peninsula – often simply referred to as ‘Kalaupapa’ or ‘the Kalaupapa peninsula’ – includes three ahupua‘a. Kalaupapa National Historical Park contains 10,725 acres over 12 square miles, including 2,000 acres of ocean.”

“Owners of the land include the State Department of Land and Natural Resources, the State Department of Hawaiian Home Lands (1,247 acres) and The National Park Service (23 acres at the Kalaupapa Lighthouse …). Some smaller land holdings at the top of the North Shore cliffs that separate the peninsula from topside Molokai are privately owned.” (Ka Ohana O Kalaupapa)

“The park service has a $250,000 a year lease with DHHL which runs through 2041, and another lease with DLNR which expires in 2029.” (OHA)

State law (HRS §326-34) states that the county of Kalawao consists of that portion of the island of Molokai known as Kalaupapa, Kalawao and Waikolu, and commonly known or designated as the Kalaupapa Settlement, and is not a portion of the County of Maui, but is constituted a county by itself.

Access to Kalaupapa is severely limited.  There are no roads to the peninsula from “topside” Molokai. Land access is via a steep trail on the pali (sea cliff) that is approximately three miles long with 26 switchbacks.

Kalaupapa National Historical Park became a unit of the National Park System in 1980. The primary story being told at Kalaupapa is the forced isolation from 1866 until 1969 of people from Hawaiʻi afflicted with Hansen’s disease (leprosy) to the remote northern Kalaupapa peninsula on the island of Molokai. (NPS)

The Park differs significantly from most other national parks in that nearly all of the 8,725 acres of land, 2,000 acres of water, and improvements within the authorized boundary may remain in non-Federal ownership to be managed by the National Park Service through cooperative agreements.

The primary responsibilities for the State Department of Health at Kalaupapa are to provide food, housing, health care, and social services for the patient community.  Patients have the right to take and utilize fish and wildlife resources without regard to Federal fish and game laws and regulations.

On a national level, Congress established the Park per (PL 96-565 (1980)):

  • to preserve and interpret the Kalaupapa settlement for present and future generations;
  • to provide a well-maintained community in which the Kalaupapa leprosy patients are guaranteed that they may remain at Kalaupapa as long as they wish and to protect the current lifestyle of these patients and their individual privacy. In addition, Congress called for preservation and maintenance of the present character of the community and its historic sites and structures.
  • to provide that the preservation and interpretation of the settlement be managed and performed by patients and Native Hawaiians to the extent practical, and that training opportunities be provided to such persons in management and interpretation of the settlement’s cultural, historical, educational, and scenic resources.

Under Lease No. 231, DHHL leases 1,247-acres of land at Kalaupapa to the National Park Service to and including July 14, 2041, “solely as an integral part of the Kalaupapa National Historical Park established by Public Law 96-565 and for the purposes expressed therein.”

The park has formal twenty-year cooperative agreements with the State of Hawaiʻi, Departments of Health, Transportation, and Land and Natural Resources. The cooperative agreements allow for shared responsibilities.

“The feared and then-untreatable disease arrived in Hawaii with merchant sailors in the 1840s. ‘The disease became epidemic. There arose a fear that perhaps Hawaii would become a bastion of leprosy,’ according to Dr S Kalani Brady, a professor and physician in Hawaii who treats the islands’ remaining Hansen’s disease patients. This fear spurred the authorities to take harsh action.” (NIH)

On January 6, 1866, nine men and three women were sent to what is commonly known as the Kalaupapa peninsula because of a new government policy that called for the isolation of anyone diagnosed with leprosy.

They would be the first of an estimated 8,000 people from Hawaii who would be taken from their families and relocated, first in the original settlement on the windward side of Kalawao and, later, at Kalaupapa on the leeward side. (Ka Ohana O Kalaupapa)

“[T]hey processed as criminals anyone suspected of having a telltale skin blemish. First, the person was arrested and examined, naked, by a circle of experts. Those convicted were boated to the Kalaupapa settlement on Molokai Island … and were left to spend the rest of their curtailed lives void of medical support, rule of law or any further contact with family.”

“[M]ore than 8,000 Hawaiians with leprosy were confined on the island of Molokai, where they could not escape due to the high cliffs on one side and shark-infested ocean on the other.” (NIH)

“Nine (9) patients remain of those individuals that chose to remain as residents in Kalaupapa after the repeal of Hawaii’s isolation law in 1969. Now ranging in age from 80 to 97 years, these individuals continue to suffer some disabilities related to Hansen’s disease, but also deal with chronic diseases and conditions commonly associated with aging.” (DOH, (2022))

Congress authorized a Kalaupapa memorial and in 2022, the Hawai‘i legislature appropriated $5-million for the Kalaupapa Memorial, to be located in Kalawao across from St Philomena – the names of the Hawai‘i residents removed from their homes and relocated to Kalaupapa Peninsula will be engraved in polished granite. (Tsai)

The memorial, designed in consultation with architects, planners, Native Hawaii cultural specialists and descendants of Kalaupapa residents, will consist of two-interlocking circles representing those who were forced to relocate and those they left behind and their descendants. According to Ka Ohana o Kalaupapa, the intersection of the two circles represents the reunification that most residents were never able to realize. (Tsai)

​Kalaupapa has been home for 100 years for people once banished from society, but it is in transition due to its ever-decreasing patient population. The settlement is much quieter than it once was. There are fewer buildings. Life today is lived at a somewhat slower pace. (NPS)

So, what’s next?

“[W]hen there is no longer a resident patient community at Kalaupapa, the Secretary [of the Interior] shall reevaluate the policies governing the management, administration, and public use of the park in order to identify any changes deemed to be appropriate.” (Public Law 95-565, Sec. 109, dated Dec. 22, 1980, to establish Kalaupapa National Historical Park)

“With the patient population getting smaller, there has been a tendency lately to refer to a time in the near future at Kalaupapa ‘when there are no more patients.’ The ‘Ohana does not believe such a time will ever come to be. While the patient population may no longer be with us physically, they will always be present spiritually. They will always be part of this land.” (Ka Ohana O Kalaupapa)

Per the NPS’ Revised General Management Plan (2021), “In the near term, Kalaupapa Settlement would continue to function much as it does today. …”

“In the long term, the NPS would strive to maintain buildings, structures, and cultural landscape features within Kalaupapa Settlement that are eligible for listing in the National Register and/or contribute to the NHL [National Historic Landmark] ….”

 “In the long term, houses and other structures may be adaptively reused and could be managed by other entities, such as agency partners, organizations, and concession operations, pursuant to appropriate agreements or contracts.”  (NPS)

© 2024 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: General, Place Names Tagged With: Kalawao, Molokai, Hawaii, Kalaupapa

August 10, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Pōhakuloa CCC Camp

In 1876, the legislature passed “An Act for the Protection and Preservation of Woods and Forests” in response to water crisis in Honolulu due to deforestation and decrease in stream flow Nuʻuanu Stream, the main source of water for Honolulu. 

In 1882, the first government tree nursery was established to provide tree seedlings for reforestation of mauka lands above Honolulu. 50,000 tree seedlings are planted on the denuded slopes of Tantalus (Honolulu). (DLNR-DOFAW)

In 1903, the Hawaii Territorial Legislature passed Act 44 establishing the Board of Agriculture and Forestry, predating the USDA Forest Service by one year. Act 44 expanded on the Forestry Act of 1876 and provided the legal vehicle for the creation of reserves encompassing private as well as public lands.

The Forest Reserve System was created by the Territorial Government of Hawai’i through Act 44 on April 25, 1903.  It was cooperative arrangement between the Hawai‘i Sugar Planters Association and the territorial government.

Plantations needed wood for fuel, but they also needed to keep the forests intact to draw precipitation from the trade winds, which in turn fed the irrigation systems in the cane fields below. (DLNR-DOFAW)

The first Territorial forester, Ralph S Hosmer, suggested that the forest had been declining in the uplands as a result of fire, grazing and insects. In order to preserve the forest, it was necessary to keep the ungulates out. From 1924 to 1926 hundreds of thousands of pigs, sheep, cattle and goats were reportedly removed from Hawaii’s Territorial forests.

But the planters were also worried about hunters in the woods starting fires from their camps. Likewise, the commercial ranchers were also wary of individual hunters who could also shoot cattle from the ranch.  (Peter Mills)

Then the US economy took a hit … after a decade of national prosperity in the Roaring Twenties, Americans faced a national crisis after the Crash of 1929. The Great Depression saw an unemployment rate of more than twenty-five percent in the early 1930s. (pbs)

As a means to make work Franklin Delano Roosevelt authorized the New Deal; the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) succeeded the Emergency Conservation Work agency, which started in 1933. In 1939, the CCC became part of the Federal Security Agency. (It was eliminated in 1943.) (UH Mānoa)

The purpose of the CCC and its predecessors was to provide employment in forestry and conservation work. It “brought together two wasted resources, the young men and the land, in an effort to save both.” (NPS)

From FDR’s inauguration on March 4, 1933, to the induction of the first CCC enrollee, only 37 days had elapsed. The goals of the CCC according to the law were: “1) To provide employment (plus vocational training) and 2) To conserve and develop ‘the natural resources of the United States.’”

By the end of the third year, there were 2,158-CCC camps in the nation and 1,600,000-men had participated in the program. (NPS)

There were five primary CCC camps built in Hawaiʻi (the CCC Compound at Kokeʻe State Park, the most intact today; what is now a YMCA camp at Keʻanae on Maui; a research facility on the Big Island; Hawaiian Homes Property with only two buildings remaining on the Big Island; and part of Schofield Barracks in Wahiawa on Oʻahu.) Other temporary campgrounds were spotted in work areas around the Islands. (NPS)

While the first 57 CCC enrollees on Hawaiʻi Island began working in 1934, it was not until June of 1935 the first CCC camp was established (in Hawai‘i National Park – as Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park was originally called), which housed 200 enrollees.

The territorial foresters’ camp at Keanakolu was expanded into a Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) field camp. All of these buildings are still standing today.

Additional camps were also constructed around Mauna Kea Forest Reserve boundaries to house crews of CCC enrollees. In 1935, a CCC camp was at Pōhakuloa.  It included a cluster of buildings and tents that included a recreation/ dining hall, two bunkhouses, two cottages, seven cabins, and seven outbuildings.

Pu‘u Pōhakuloa is a cinder cone overlooking the PTA headquarters area on the Saddle Road.  Pōhakuloa means long stone.  It also refers to a deity of the forest lands that extended across Mauna Loa towards Mauna Kea. Pōhakuloa, the deity, was a form of the akua Kū, a lover of Poliʻahu, a patron of canoe makers, and in his human form an ʻolohe expert and woodworker,

The hill gives its name to the respective Pōhakuloa references in this area.  One early name was associated with a Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) camp in this area.

The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) undertook fencing, road building and visitor facilities on Mauna Kea.  The CCC built a stone cabin at Hale Pōhaku, which gained its name (house of stone) from that structure. The cabin at Hale Pōhaku provided a shelter for overnight hikers, hunters and snow players.

In 1935-36, as part of the effort to eradicate wild sheep from the mountain, the CCC took on the project of building a fence around the Mauna Kea Forest Reserve (over 60 miles of fencing).  Sheep drives were then carried out in an attempt to eliminate the sheep from the reserve.

The CCC brought water down to Pōhakuloa from a mountain spring … “The CCC days … Up the gulch, up on the mountain, remember, they tapped one of the springs up there …”

“Yes, they had one of the pipes going up.  You can see the pipe when you go, it’s coming down.” (Jess Hannah; Maly) “[T]hat water for Pōhakuloa, there’s a spring, Hopukani Spring.  CCC boys built the pipeline.” (Davd Woodside; Maly) The spring provided a “continuous supply of pure water.” (Bryan; ASM) (Spring water is no longer used; water is trucked in from Hilo or Waimea.)

The advent of World War II brought an end to the CCC program, as the remaining manpower and funding for the program were redirected toward the war effort.

By July 1, 1942, all Territory of Hawaiʻi CCC camps were closed, transferred to the military, or abandoned.  The Army operated Camp Pōhakuloa between 1943 and 1945.  The army also took over the old CCC camp house at Pōhakuloa and used it during the war.

After the end of the CCC programs and World War II, the old CCC facilities at Pōhakuloa were primarily used by staff of the Territorial Divisions of Forestry, Fish and Game including lodging by sheep and bird hunters or by other members of the public seeking recreational accommodations.

“Sheep hunters usually gather at Pohakuloa, the lodge maintained by the Hawaiian Board of Forestry and Agriculture. Here they spend the night under piles of blankets (because of the 6,500 foot elevation, the nights are almost always cold) and start out before sunrise for the mountain ridges.”

“They climb to the ten thousand foot elevation, where wild sheep and goats are in abundance. The Board of Forestry encourages hunting, as the animals have caused serious erosion by eating vegetation, and some authorities believe that the sheep and goats will never be entirely exterminated.”

“In its desire to provide hunting facilities, the Territory maintains not only Pohakuloa lodge, with its bedding accommodations for fifty people, but smaller lodges at Kemole and Kahinahina.” (Paradise of the Pacific, May 1948; Maly)

In 1954, the Division of Territorial Parks was created, and the former CCC facilities became part of Pōhakuloa Park, also called “Pohakuloa Hunting Lodge”.

The division began a series of improvements that would eventually replace the existing CCC cabins with all new buildings. (No physical evidence of the original CCC structures remain, as they were removed by 1968.)

In August 1962, DLNR’s Division of State Parks officially assumed all responsibility for administering these facilities and booking overnight accommodations. Forestry, Fish and Game staff continued to use a number of older structures.

The transformation of the Pōhakuloa CCC camp into the Pōhakuloa Park and later Mauna Kea State Recreation Area happened between 1961 and 1970.

The first of these improvements was a picnic area south of the Saddle Road from the CCC cabins. In 1961, major improvements to the Park began with the addition of new cabins. The first three cabins, variously called the “Housekeeping,” “Family,” or “Vacation” cabins, were built northeast of the former CCC complex, followed by two more the following year.

These five identical cabins, built on post-and-pier foundations, were prefabricated cedar structures manufactured by Loxide Structures of Tacoma, Washington. The cabins were roofed with cedar shakes and were replaced with corrugated metal in 1989.

Each of these cabins was named after a native Hawaiian plant as illustrated by a wooden plaque near its door with the plant name. In 1963, the existing comfort station was built, using a combination of fir, pine, and hollow tile.

A new headquarters building, caretaker’s cabin, and a storage building were constructed. Each of these were pre-fabricated by Pan-Abode Company in Washington State. The buildings are tongue-in-groove cedar log cabins built on post-and-pier foundations and roofed with cedar shakes.

The two “Family” cabins (now the ADA accessible cabins) were also built near the cluster of vacation cabins on the other side of the recreation area. These cabins, like the other new buildings, were prefabricated tongue-ingroove cedar kit cabins supplied by the Pan-Abode Company.

With the construction of the Comfort Station, the park’s picnic area was relocated from south of Saddle Road to its present location.

At its meeting on March 28, 2014, BLNR approved the management transfer of the State Park to the Department of Parks and Recreation, County of Hawai‘i; and approved the withdrawal of the park area from the Mauna Kea Forest Reserve and set aside to the County for park purposes.

The park was renamed Gilbert Kahele Recreation Area in 2019.  The late Hawai‘i Island State Senator, Gilbert Kahele, “worked just down the road from the recreation area for 34 years as Director of the Public Works Division at the Pōhakuloa Training Area.”

“When he served in the state legislature he was instrumental in achieving park improvements by way of the transfer of the management to Hawai‘i County.” (Kahele; DLNR Release) Lots here is from Cultural Surveys, ASM and Rosendahl.)

© 2024 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: Economy, General, Buildings, Place Names, Prominent People Tagged With: Mauna Kea, Civilian Conservation Corps, CCC, Pohakuloa, Pohakuloa Training Area, Gilbert Kahele, Hawaii

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