Images of Old Hawaiʻi

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Sarona Road

Mai ka Lani mai nei ka leo kahea,
Pio mai la kona nani i ka lua kupapau.
A o oe la e, e Opukahaia, Hauoli avanei,
ke ike aku oe, O kou aina hanau, ke pua mai nei;
Opuu ae la na rose, aala mai hoi,
Nani loa o Sarona, hiehie moana.

The call came from Heaven,
His glory faded from the grave.
And you, Opukahaia, be happy now,
when you see, Your native land is blooming;
The roses bloomed and smelled,
Sharon is very beautiful, the sea is beautiful.
(Ka Moolelo o Heneri Opukahaia; Chris Cook)

ʻIsaia 65:10, A e lilo nō ʻo Sārona i pā no nā hipa, A ʻo ke kahawai ʻo ʻAkora i wahi moe no nā bipi, No koʻu poʻe kānaka i ʻimi mai ai iaʻu.

Isaiah 65:10, Sharon will become a pasture for flocks, and the Valley of Achor a resting place for herds, for my people who seek me.

Song of Solomon 2:1, “ʻO wau nō ka rose o Sārona, A me ka līlia o nā awāwa.“ “I am the rose of Sharon, And the lily of the valleys.” (Hawaiian Baibala)

“The Rose of Sharon is a flower that grows on mountaintops, and that’s why the Lord referred to Himself as The Rose of Sharon. His mountaintop was Golgotha, and the Lord let me know that people can only find this Rose on Mount Calvary.”

“Roses are noted for their fragrances, and the fragrance from this great Rose travels down from the mount of God and into the valley for us.” (Ernest Angley Ministries)

Sharon is the Mediterranean coastal plain between Joppa and Caesarea. In the time of Solomon, it was a place of great fertility. It is in North Palestine, between Mount Tabor and Lake Tiberias. (Bible-org)

Sarona is the name of a road in Kailua-Kona in the immediate vicinity of Moku‘aikaua Church. As noted in the translations above, Sarona is the Hawaiian word for Sharon.

Moku‘aikaua Church started in 1820 with the arrival of the first American Protestant missionaries. With the permission of Liholiho (Kamehameha II), the missionaries built a grass house for worship in 1823.

It soon was found that the church was incapable of holding the growing following of the missionaries. The Kona District had by the mid-1820s, an estimated population of 20,000 and congregations became so large that a considerable number had to be excluded from services.

Governor Kuakini immediately agreed to help in the erection of a new structure. Every male in the district was sent into the mountains to help cut and haul timber. On September 27, 1826, the church was dedicated. (NPS)

It was destroyed by fire in 1835; the present lava rock and coral mortared church, capped with a gable roof, was dedicated on February 4, 1837. It is the oldest intact Western structure on the Island of Hawai‘i.

Moku‘aikaua Church is on a small level lot near the center of Kailua-Kona. Its high steeple stands out conspicuously and has become a landmark from both land and sea.

Some believe Sarona Road was the path people took to/from Mokuaikaua Church that takes an idyllic biblical name (reminiscent of the Rose of Sharon and other Sharon references in the Bible) that was named by Asa Thurston.

Reverend Asa and Lucy Thurston were in the Pioneer company of American Protestant Missionaries to the Hawaiian Islands, arriving in Kailua-Kona on the Thaddeus in 1820.

The Thurstons made their home in Kailua Village, in a house the Hawaiians named Laniākea. Thurston received Laniākea, a 5.26-acre homestead parcel as a gift from Governor Kuakini.

As noted by Rev. Sereno Edwards Bishop, in his book “Reminiscences Of Old Hawaii”: “In the early [1830s,] Kailua was a large native village, of about 4,000 inhabitants rather closely packed along one hundred rods [1650-feet] of shore, and averaging twenty rods [330-feet] inland.”

“It had been the chief residence of King Kamehameha, who in 1819 died there in a rudely built stone house whose walls are probably still standing on the west shore of the little bay. Nearby stood a better stone house occupied by the doughty Governor Kuakini.”

“All other buildings in Kailua were thatched, until Rev. Artemas Bishop built his two-story stone dwelling in 1831 and Rev. Asa Thurston in 1833 built his wooden two-story house at Laniakea, a quarter of a mile inland.”

“Most of the native huts were thatched with the stiff pili grass. The better ones were thatched with lau-hala (pandanus leaf) or with la-i.”

“The second company [of missionaries] consisted of six married couples and two single persons. They sailed from New Haven, Conn., Nov. 19, 1822, and arrived at Honolulu, April 27, 1823, in 158 days. Among the second company was Rey. Artemas Bishop, a native of Pompey, NY …”

“He was married in November, 1822, to Elizabeth Edwards, who was born at Marlborough, Mass., June 17, 1796. Mrs. Bishop had been a girlhood friend of Mrs. Lucy G. Thurston, who had preceded her to Hawaii as a missionary, some four years earlier.”

Missionaries that served at the Kailua-Kona Mission Station, whose principal church was Moku‘aikaua, included, Asa Thurston, Thomas Holman, Artemas Bishop, James Ely, Delia Stone and Seth L Andrews.

Back to the naming of the road … Hawaiian Place Names notes the reference to the Land Commission Award Book and Tax Map, apparently, all references are linked to the Land Commission decisions.

Early references to ‘Sarona’ are found in the Land Commission Awards (LCA) Book 3 related to awards to Leleiōhoku. Leleiōhoku was son of Kalanimōku; Leleiōhoku married Princess Ruth (Keʻelikōlani).

On August 30, 1851, the Land Commission records note LCA 1028 and LCA 9971 Apana 46 and 47 (as well as many other parcels) were in a partial list of lands agreed upon by the Mahele to belong to the more important Aliis and Chiefs and confirmed to Leleiōhoku by Award of the Commission to Quiet Land Titles.

Mapping for LCA 1028 noted ‘Ala Ololi Sarona’ (Narrow Sharon Path) as a boundary and mauka of the parcel the trail/road is noted as ‘Ala Ololi Pii Sarona’ (Narrow Sharon Path going up).

Mapping for the LCA 9971 Apana parcels 46 and 47 note “Alanui Sarona” (Sharon Road/Trail) as a boundary. The ‘Alanui’ reference suggests larger trails/road.

LCA 9971 Apana 47 also notes Alanui Tatina (now spelled Kakina) as a boundary – Tatina was the Hawaiian name for Thurston. Alanui Tatina is likely the trail used by the Thurstons that lead from their home, ‘Laniakea’, down into Kailua-Kona).

Given its location, the early reference of the name (1851), the biblical nature of the name, the religious passion of Asa Thurston, Artemas Bishop and the other missionaries and their families, it is plausible (probable) that Sarona Road was named by the missionaries and was a trail used by the Hawaiians from the surrounding area to get to Moku‘aikaua Church.

By Resolution 288, dated January 19, 1956, the Hawai‘i County Board of Supervisors approved the ‘Naming of Streets in Kailua Keahou [sic] Area, Kona’; the list of ten streets included Sarona Road.

© 2024 Ho‘okuleana LLC

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Hilo Country Club

“For years Hilo has had no golf course.  A links  at the Volcano and the residents of Hamakua coast and of the Kohala region can get a round or two whenever they desire.” (HTH, Sep 23, 1925)

“The Hilo Country Club was the name chosen for Hilo’s new golf club which has purchased 123 acres of excellent golf land in Kaumana, … at a meeting of the members of the organization held Monday evening in the Chamber of Commerce rooms.”

“The course will be a regulation nine hole course, capable of accommodating-more than 150 golfers at one time. …  The club has more than enough land so that when Hilo needs an 18-[hole] course it will be an easy matter to enlarge the nine-hole course.” (HTH, Sep 2, 1925)

“The Hilo Country Club golf course in Kaumana is now complete and will be ready for play in July or August … The course in the estimation of many prominent golfers is the best in the Territory.” (HTH, Apr 16, 1926)

“The Hilo Country Club’s new golf course will be informally opened on August 22, when members of the club are allowed to use the links”. (HTH, Aug 10, 1926)

“[T]hat golf course was put up by the plantations, all the C. Brewer and all the big fives. All the plantation managers were the members and directors so whenever we want something like fertilizer, we got it from the plantations.”

“That’s the only way we could have survived then. Mostly it was managers and the bank, the judges, the police chief and all those. … “ (Susumu Tanimoto, oral history Pili Productions)

“[A]ll the functions like socializing was done at the Yacht Club, the same members. That Country Club was mostly for golf. And all the social gatherings, the same group, they all belonged to the Yacht Club.”

“It was quite a big club house though. We could seat 250 for dinner, upstairs and one open floor you know. We could seat 250. … We had catered to some you know class reunions and some weddings and things like that.” (Susumu Tanimoto, oral history Pili Productions)

“[W]hen I first there they won’t take any Orientals or any other nationality.”  (Susumu Tanimoto, oral history Pili Productions)  Susumu Tanimoto joined the Hilo Country Club in 1945.

“Well I first went to the Country Club as a custodian and during that time there were nobody around. Everybody was drafted or either volunteered.”

“So they didn’t have any guy, any custodian. And for me it was lucky because my wife could be in the kitchen and I could take over the rest of the janitorial job and everything. That’s how we started.”

“[T]hat was one of the nicest club house. Too bad though. And we had a bar. … All with hard wood, koa. Oh one of the best. Real, real old timer. … [the clubhouse as] Two story, like this basement. That’s where we had all our everyday doing. You know golf, golf shop, lunch. We serve lunch on the, upstairs was purely for big gatherings, dance.”

“But working there for couple of years then I took up golf cause I was on the golf course. … after I became pro. That’s why they made me the pro, to get all Orientals, all the doctors and lawyers and all the Oriental businessmen.”

“So I did went out and I got a lot of the businessmen and professional men to join the club. And we were doing fine.”  (Susumu Tanimoto, oral history Pili Productions)

“[W]e had the Hilo Open, we had the Island Champion, four or five big ones through the year. Cause we were the only golf club then, before the Muni came.”

Then, the “Hilo Municipal [Golf Course] opened up 1958 or ’59. And from there on the membership became low because they could play golf cheaper. So then we start struggling.” (Susumu Tanimoto, oral history Pili Productions)

Tanimoto “wasn’t happy with the club so I just resigned and… They hired another pro while I was still working there. That got me mad you know so I quit. And after I quit all the boys that I have brought them to the club, to let them join, they all resign too.”

“So right off the bat gone. They had no income then. All the guys that I had recruited, they all resign when I resign and left the club. I think they operate about six months after I left.”  Tanimoto opened a pro shop in Hilo.  (Susumu Tanimoto, oral history Pili Productions)

“[S]ale of the {Hilo Country] club had been considered for several months. The club has bank debts, and other outstanding bills totalling approximately $150,000.” (HTH, Nov 4, 1973)

“[T]he vote for approval of the sale was 266 to 2. A vote of 224, or 75 per cent of the 297 club stockholders, was needed for approval of the sale.”

“Originally, three offers were received, one for $800,000 and two for $850,000. All three were rejected by the Country Club board of directors because of the wide variation of sale conditions.”

“Uniform sale conditions were then laid down by the directors and the firms were invited to submit offers. The firm with the $800,000 offer upped it to $850,000. One of the firms offering $850,000 re-submitted the offer and the other withdrew.” (HTH, Jan 1, 1974)

The property was deeded to Obata Pacific Inc on March 7, 1974. (HTH, Sep 16, 1974)  Obata Pacific intended to expand the nine hole course to 18 holes and develop other recreational facilities.  (HTH, Jan 1, 1974)

Things got worse … “Obata Pacific, a Hawaii corporation owned by Mr. and Mrs. Minoru Obata of Tokyo, took title to the 63-acre, nine-hole Kaumana course and clubhouse last March, putting down 10 per cent of the $855,000 sale price.”

“A spokesman for Obata in Hilo confirmed to the Tribune-Herald this week that the firm is nearly two months late in making a final balloon payment. … planning work on renovation of the facility has been suspended. A December reopening date for the club has been postponed by Obata indefinitely”. (HTH, Sep 1, 1974)

The property went into foreclosure and the golf course never reopened.

© 2024 Ho‘okuleana LLC

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kona

“The story of the Polynesians began about 6,000 years ago when a seafaring people traveled from Asia or Melanesia to the islands of Samoa and Tonga. Their descendants eventually sailed east to Tahiti and the Marquesas Islands.  Later they sailed south to New Zealand, east to Easter Island, and north to the Hawaiian Islands.”

“By A.D. 1200, the ancient Polynesians voyagers had settled nearly every habitable island over some ten million square miles of the Pacific Ocean.” (Hawaiian Encyclopedia A Comprehensive Guide To The Hawaiian Islands History, Culture, Native Species, Science)

“Polynesian is part of a subgroup of Austronesian called Oceanic which includes all the Austronesian languages of Polynesia, Island Melanesia, coastal New Guinea east of 136 degrees East longitude, and Micronesian languages other than two Western Micronesian languages: Chamorro (Mariana Islands) and Belauan (Belau, formerly Palau).”

“[I]t is clear that Proto Polynesian speech and culture (ca. 1-300 A.D.) was a product of something like 1000 years of development in fair isolation from the outside world. ‘Polynesian’ language and culture did not arrive fully formed in Polynesia.”

“The language and culture of the early Oceanic Austronesian speaking settlers who gave rise to the modern cultures we observe in Polynesia were greatly transformed in Polynesia itself before internal diversification became pronounced.”

“‘Polynesian; language and culture ‘came from’ the west as most people have long imagined, but it wasn’t Polynesian when it arrived. It became Polynesian in situ, differentiating from a linguistic and cultural base originating in Insular Southeast Asia and initially transformed as it spread across Melanesia towards Polynesia over a period of hundreds of years.” (Jeff Marck)

“Sikaiana legends record an invasion from ‘Tona’ about 12-14 generations ago in their genealogies (from the 1980s). They associate Tona with Tonga, although Tona is a common Polynesian word for “south” and many Western Polynesian societies have similar legends of people from the ‘south.’” (Kutztown University)

“The people of Tonga (correctly pronounced tona, as in ‘Kona’, Hawaii) met Captain Cook with such warm greetings that he called the islands of Tonga the ‘Friendly Islands’”. (NOAA)

“’[T]onga’ means ‘south’ in the Tongan language and refers to the country’s geographic position in relation to central Polynesia”. (CIA)

Dictionaries state, “Hawaiian Dictionary – Kona 1. nvs. Leeward sides of the Hawaiian Islands; leeward (PPN [Proto-Polynesian language] Tonga.)

“[Parker Dictionary (Hawaiian)] Kona (kō’-na), n. 1. South (opposite of koolau, which is north). 2. The southwest wind; also the south wind. 3. The rain accompanying a south wind: He ua kona, he ua nui loa ia; a kona rain is a very great rain.  4. The south or southwest sides of the Hawaiian islands.”

“In all probability, Tonga and Tona or Kona, the name of a district … of Hawaii, are one and the same word; and, to give an instance of which there can be no doubt, tangata, the Samoan for man, has been softened into the Hawaiian tanata or Kanaka.” (Sir George Simpson, An Overland Journey Round the World (1841-1842))

“Explorers are not new to the Kingdom of Tonga (Pule’anga Fakatu’i ‘o Tonga), an archipelago of 176 islands south of Samoa in the South Pacific Ocean. The Dutch were some of the earliest explorers to arrive on the island in the 17th century, followed by other Europeans, including Captain James Cook of the British Navy.”

“As a word, ‘Kona’ is often translated as ‘leeward’. But the full meaning invites explication.  The word is of ancient origin and exists across the Austronesian language family in other forms.  For example, further south it is spoken as ‘tonga’. And thus the name of the South Pacific island chain and Nation.”

“What kona land areas are leeward of is the direction of the trade winds. Within the Hawaiian island chain, four of the six major islands contain district names Kona by original Hawaiian settlers.”

“The indigenous geographic concept of kona is more than simply a directional relationship. Kona districts have particular environments created by the specific microclimates that exist from being leeward.” (Jolliffe)

“The expressions Tonga, Kona, Toa (Sam., Haw., Tah.), to indicate the quarter of an island or of the wind, between the south and west, and Tokelau, Toerau, Koolau (Sam., Tah., Haw.), to indicate the opposite directions from north to east …”

“… expressions universal throughout Polynesia, and but little modified by subsequent local circumstances point strongly to a former habitat in lands where the regular monsoons prevailed.”

“Etymologically ‘Tonga,’ ‘Kona,’ contracted from ‘To-anga’ or ‘Ko-ana,’ signifies ‘the setting,’ seil. of the sun. ‘Toke-lau,’ of which the other forms are merely dialectical variations, signifies ‘the cold, chilly sea.’” (Fornander I)

“Mr. Hale, in the Ethnological portion of the United States Exploring Expedition under Commodore Wilkes, considers the application of Tonga to the south-western quarter as subsequent to the dispersion of the Polynesians in the Pacific (vid. p. 180).”

“But Mr. Hale, in the very same article, has very lucidly shown that ‘Tonga’ was a term applied to the very first settlement of the Polynesians in the Pacific, on Viti-Iewu, signifying ‘the Western,’ seil. people, in contradistinction from the Viti proper, or ‘Eastern’ people.”

“Hence it is reasonable to infer that the Polynesians brought the term with them as an already existing appellation of the western quarter, as much so as they did the other term of ‘Toke-lau,’ to designate the eastern quarter. (Fornander I)

© 2024 Ho‘okuleana LLC

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Camp Kailani

By the 1920s, wealthy Honolulu families had built weekend cottages on Kailua beach and the planned development of Lanikai homes began. There was little growth during the depression years that followed. (O’Brien)

Kailua Beach Park was established in 1920 when the Territory of Hawaii transferred 25 acres of State land to the City for a public beach park. Since that time, the City has been incrementally acquiring private property.

One such acquisition was through a land exchange with Doris Duke.  Under an Exchange Deed, she transferred a shoreline parcel of 7,817 square feet in Kailua to the Territory of Hawai‘i to allow for the expansion of a municipal park.

In return, Duke obtained two submerged parcels totaling 0.608 acres for her Diamond Head Breakwater and outlying ocean area along the western end of the property and a smaller submerged parcel.

Duke then dynamited a small-boat harbor and a seventy-five-foot salt-water swimming pool into the rock.  The breakwater and harbor were built to protect Duke’s fleet of yachts, including Kailani Lahilahi, an ocean-going, 58-foot motor yacht and Kimo, the 26-foot mahogany runabout that Duke sometimes used to commute into Honolulu. (Shangri La CDUA)

Zoning changes in 1937 made homes easier to build in Kailua. By the eve of World War II, there were 1,500 people living in Kailua, which was still mostly a recreation area for a weekend-only population. Homes were concentrated near the beach. Beyond the beach area, the region was dominated by Harold Castle’s Kaneohe Ranch.

The post-war years saw rapid changes as Hawaii’s economy and population both grew. Kailua’s population increased four-fold to 6,000 by 1948 as developers began building more homes in Kailua. By the early 50s, Kaneohe Ranch sold or leased its land in Kailua as it realized the profit potential.

Kailua’s population continued to grow through the 50s which, along with Kaneohe’s growth, mandated the construction of the new Pali Highway. Kailua’s population was 25,000 by 1960.

By the 1970s however, Kailua had seen almost all available land developed and growth slowed. The population was 36,000 by 1980. (O’Brien)

Land acquisition for Kailua Beach Park was finally completed in May 1991 when the City Parks acquired the last of 13 house lots on the Kailua side of Camp Kailua. )City Parks ended tent camping at Kailua Beach Park about 1970 to resolve complaints from neighbors and beach goers.) (C&C Parks and Recreation)

Nearby, “Lanikai is the name of the residential community situated in the headlands between Kailua Bay and Waimanalo Bay. Lanikai is not a proper Hawaiian word, but was devised by this community’s promoters.”

“The name probably was intended to mean ‘royal sea’ or perhaps ‘heavenly sea,’ which in proper Hawaiian, would have been Kailani, but the words were transposed and joined as they would be in English, rather than in Hawaiian.” (Clark)

There was a Kailani nearby; well … a Camp Kailani.

The Methodist Church built Camp Kailani in 1947, it had  wooden huts and was used for church outings and camping.  (C&C Design and Construction) “The Methodist mission bought the [2-acre] property on June 1, 1946.”

“Dr Alford Wall, Honolulu dentist, acquired fee simple title to the property many years ago. During World war II, the army instituted on the grounds the Welakahao Officers’ club. It removed the home and garage and erected in their place a pavilion, bathhouse, several buildings and cottages.” (SB, Jan 21, 1947)

With respect to use of the new camp, “Dr. Fry [Methodist Mission Superintendent] emphasized that no denominational lines will be drawn.  Only stipulation is that Christian groups use it for their social and religious gatherings. Nominal rates will be charged for overnight and day guests.” (SB, Jan 21, 1947)

Later, “The purchase of the adjacent [1-acre] lot to the camp site brought abrupt changes in the activity of the Kailani Committee for 1963. Master planning is under complete re-study in light of the new property and the priority listing submitted to the Annual Meeting of 1963 will necessarily need revision as new factors in the plan are developed in the future.” (Methodist Journal, 1964)

In 1980, due to the high cost of maintenance and the increasingly urban setting, the Church reconsidered continued use of the Camp and offered to sell the property to the City.

In 1982, the terms negotiated for City acquisition of Camp Kailani allowed two more years of Church use during which time the Church could develop new cabin camping facilities in a more rural location. (However, such facilities were not developed.)

The City Parks Department took over management of Camp Kailani in 1984 and about 1985 informally renamed the property Camp Kailua.

The City Parks acquired Camp Kailua with the intent of removing most structures and expanding Kailua Beach Park. Public use of buildings for meetings, retreats, and cabin camping was allowed but intended to be only temporary.

In 1985, City Parks relocated senior citizen groups to Camp Kailua after the City Fire Department cited City Parks for allowing too many seniors to meet in a Kailua Field gymnasium meeting room. (C&C Parks and Recreation)

In late-1990, City Parks announced the impending demolition of the camp; they began dismantling it in early 1991. This created a storm of protest from area residents.

A March 1991 editorial in the Star-Bulletin called the Camp Kailua ‘a Windward Alamo’ and urged the city to reconsider demolishing it.

“The Kailua Neighborhood Board and state legislators Cynthia Thielen and Jackie Young all lined up behind the Save Camp Kailua group. Alerted by flyers and phone calls, 400 Kailuans showed up at a Parks and Rec-sponsored meeting to protest the demolition.”

But City Parks was firm; campers can go elsewhere. The department said “We could not see allowing 45 people [the camp’s capacity] in there taking up valuable beach frontage that everyone paid for. We can’t allow them to dominate that land.” (Honolulu Weekly) Eventually, the buildings were removed. (C&C Design and Construction)

© 2024 Ho‘okuleana LLC

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Hualālai (as viewed by Isabella Bird)

“If all Hawaii, south of Waimea, were submerged to a depth of 8000 feet, three nearly equidistant, dome-shaped volcanic islands would remain, the highest of which would have an altitude of 6000 feet.”  (Isabella Bird)

Hualālai (“the offspring of the shining sun”) is the third youngest and third-most historically active volcano on the Island of Hawai‘i. (USGS)

It is considered to be in the post-shield stage of activity. Six different vents erupted lava between the late 1700s and 1801, two of which generated lava flows that poured into the sea on the west coast of the island.  (USGS)

The Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport at Keāhole, located only 7 miles north of Kailua-Kona, is built atop the larger flow. The oldest dated rocks are from about 128,000 years ago and it probably reached an elevation above sea level before 300,000 years ago. (USGS)

“I very soon left the languid life of Kona for this sheep station, 6000 feet high on the desolate slope of the dead volcano of Hualalai, (“offspring of the shining sun,”) on the invitation of its hospitable owner, who said if I ‘could eat his rough fare, and live his rough life, his house and horses were at my disposal.’”

“This house is in the great volcanic wilderness of which I wrote from Kalaieha, a desert of drouth and barrenness. There is no permanent track, and on the occasions when I have ridden up here alone, the directions given me have been to steer for an ox bone, and from that to a dwarf ohia.”

“There is no coming or going; it is seventeen miles from the nearest settlement, and looks across a desert valley to Mauna Loa. … A brisk cool wind blows all day; every afternoon a dense fog brings the horizon within 200 feet, but it clears off with frost at dark, and the flames of the volcano light the whole southern sky.”

“I came up to within eight miles of this house with a laughing, holiday-making rout of twelve natives, who rode madly along the narrow forest trail at full gallop, up and down the hills, through mire and over stones, leaping over the trunks of prostrate trees, and stooping under branches with loud laughter, challenging me to reckless races over difficult ground …”

“… and when they found that the wahine haole was not to be thrown from her horse they patted me approvingly, and crowned me with leis of maile. I became acquainted with some of these at Kilauea in the winter, and since I came to Kona they have been very kind to me.”

“I thoroughly like living among them, taking meals with them on their mats, and eating ‘two fingered’ poi as if I had been used to it all my life. Their mirthfulness and kindliness are most winning; their horses, food, clothes, and time are all bestowed on one so freely, and one lives amongst them with a most restful sense of absolute security.”

“They have many faults, but living alone among them in their houses as I have done so often on Hawaii, I have never seen or encountered a disagreeable thing.”

“But the more I see of them the more impressed I am with their carelessness and love of pleasure, their lack of ambition and a sense of responsibility, and the time which they spend in doing nothing but talking and singing as they bask in the sun, though spasmodically and under excitement they are capable of tremendous exertions in canoeing, surf-riding, and lassoing cattle.”

“I sat for an hour on horseback on a rocky hill while they hunted the woods; then I heard the deep voices of bulls, and a great burst of cattle appeared, with hunters in pursuit, but the herd vanished over a dip of the hill side, and the natives joined me. …”

“I have made the ascent of Hualalai twice from here, the first time guided by my host and hostess, and the second time rather adventurously alone.”

“Forests of koa, sandal-wood, and ohia, with an undergrowth of raspberries and ferns clothe its base, the fragrant maile, and the graceful sarsaparilla vine, with its clustered coral-coloured buds, nearly smother many of the trees, and in several places the heavy ie forms the semblance of triumphal arches over the track.”

“This forest terminates abruptly on the great volcanic wilderness, with its starved growth of unsightly scrub. But Hualalai, though 10,000 feet in height, is covered with Pteris aquilina, mamane, coarse bunch grass, and pukeave to its very summit, which is crowned by a small, solitary, blossoming ohia.”

“For two hours before reaching the top, the way lies over countless flows and beds of lava, much disintegrated, and almost entirely of the kind called pahoehoe.”

“Countless pit craters extend over the whole mountain, all of them covered outside, and a few inside, with scraggy vegetation. The edges are often very ragged and picturesque. The depth varies from 300 to 700 feet, and the diameter from 700 to 1,200.”

“The walls of some are of a smooth grey stone, the bottoms flat, and very deep in sand, but others resemble the tufa cones of Mauna Kea. They are so crowded together in some places as to be divided only by a ridge so narrow that two mules can scarcely walk abreast upon it.”

“The mountain was split by an earthquake in 1868, and a great fissure, with much treacherous ground about it, extends for some distance across it. It is very striking from every point of view on this side, being a complete wilderness of craters, and over 150 lateral cones have been counted.”

“The object of my second ascent was to visit one of the grandest of the summit craters, which we had not reached previously owing to fog.”

“This crater is bordered by a narrow and very fantastic ridge of rock, in or on which there is a mound about 60 feet high, formed of fragments of black, orange, blue, red, and golden lava, with a cavity or blow-hole in the centre, estimated by Brigham as having a diameter of 25 feet, and a depth of 1800.”

“The interior is dark brown, much grooved horizontally, and as smooth and regular as if turned. There are no steam cracks or signs of heat anywhere. Superb caves or lava-bubbles abound at a height of 6000 feet. These are moist with ferns, and the drip from their roofs is the water supply of this porous region.”

“Hualalai, owing to the vegetation sparsely sprinkled over it, looks as if it had been quiet for ages, but it has only slept since 1801, when there was a tremendous eruption from it, which flooded several villages, destroyed many plantations and fishponds, filled up a deep bay 20 miles in extent, and formed the present coast.”

“The terrified inhabitants threw living hogs into the stream, and tried to propitiate the anger of the gods by more costly offerings, but without effect …”

“… till King Kamehameha, attended by a large retinue of priests and chiefs, cut off some of his hair, which was considered sacred, and threw it into the torrent, which in two days ceased to run. This circumstance gave him a greatly increased ascendancy, from his supposed influence with the deities of the volcanoes.”

“I have explored the country pretty thoroughly for many miles round, but have not seen anything striking, except the remains of an immense heiau in the centre of the desert tableland, said to have been built in a day by the compulsory labour of 25,000 people …”.

“I left Hualalai yesterday morning, and dined with my kind host and hostess in the wigwam. It was the last taste of the wild Hawaiian life I have learned to love so well, the last meal on a mat, the last exercise of skill in eating ‘two-fingered’ poi.”

“I took leave gratefully of those who had been so truly kind to me, and with the friendly aloha from kindly lips in my ears, regretfully left the purple desert in which I have lived so serenely, and plunged into the forest gloom.”

“Half way down, I met a string of my native acquaintances, who, as the courteous custom is, threw over me leis of maile and roses, and since I arrived here, others have called to wish me good bye, bringing presents of figs, cocoa-nuts and bananas.”  (Isabella Bird, 1894)

© 2024 Ho‘okuleana LLC