Images of Old Hawaiʻi

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Mānā – Laumai‘a – Keanakolu Trail/Road

This is about a trail and a subsequent road on the east side of Mauna Kea.  Today, we call the Waimea end (and up Mauna Kea) the Mānā Road and the Saddle Road side of this road we call the Keanakolu Road,.  At least part of this trail/road was called Laumai‘a Trail.

Here is some of the background about the need for mauka access in this area of the Island of Hawai‘i, as well as some history on the trails/roads there.

Although the canoe was a principal means of travel in ancient Hawai`i, extensive cross-country trail networks enabled gathering of food and water and harvesting of materials for shelter, clothing, medicine, religious observances and other necessities for survival.

Trails and roads connected the coast with the uplands, probably easing travel through the upland forests. Boundary Commission records document numerous trails from the coast to the upper edge of the forest.

Most trails seem to have followed ahupua‘a boundaries (although this could be a factor of the Commission’s purpose, which was to define boundaries). (Tuggle)

Early accounts date back to the 1500s, at the time that ‘Umi-a-Līloa fell into a disagreement with the chief of Hilo over a whale

tooth (ivory) pendant. Traveling from Waipi‘o, across Mauna Kea, ‘Umi and his warriors camped in the uplands of Kaūmana.

Samuel Kamakau wrote that ‘Umi-a-Līloa “conferred with his chiefs and his father’s old war leaders. It was decided to make war on the chiefs of Hilo and to go without delay by way of Mauna Kea.”

“From back of Ka‘umana they were to descend to Hilo. It was shorter to go by way of the mountain to the trail of Poli‘ahu and Poli‘ahu’s spring at the top of Mauna Kea, and then down toward Hilo.  It was an ancient trail used by those of Hamakua, Kohala, and Waimea to go to Hilo.”

“They made ready to go with their fighting parties to Mauna Kea, descended back of Hilo, and encamped just above the stream of Waianuenue without the knowledge of Hilo’s people that war was coming from the upland. Hilo’s chiefs were unprepared.” (Kamakau, Ruling Chiefs)

In the period leading up to the mid-1800s, travel to Mauna Kea was done on foot along a system of trails that crossed the mountain lands.

Native ala hele (trails), which had been used for centuries and often provided the “path of least resistance,” to travel around and across the island, proved inadequate for the new methods of travel with horses, wagons and team animals.

By 1847, Kamehameha III had instructed island governors to undertake the survey of routes and construction of new roads, which became known as the Alanui Aupuni (Government Roads). Construction was to be paid for through taxation and “labor days” of the residents of the lands through which the roads would pass.  (ASM)

In 1862, the Commission of Boundaries (Boundary Commission) was established in the Hawaiian Kingdom to legally set the boundaries of all the ahupua‘a that had been awarded as a part of the Māhele.

Subsequently, in 1874, the Commissioners of Boundaries were authorized to certify the boundaries for lands brought before them. The primary informants for the boundary descriptions were old native residents of the lands, many of which had also been claimants for kuleana during the Māhele. (ASM)

An informant, Kalaualoha, stated that “in olden times the birdcatchers used to go up the Honohina and Pīhā roads, they could not go up Nanue as the road was so bad.”

“The canoe road of Nanue ran to mauka of Kaahiwa [Ka‘ahina stream], there it ended. But the roads on Honohina and Pīhā ran way mauka.” (Koa logs were selected, prepared in the forest and then hauled down canoe roads.) (Tuggle)

Puuhaula’s testimony for Pāpa‘ikou stated that “the old Alakahi road ran up the boundary to Palauolelo and was said to be the boundary between Makahanaloa and Papaikou.”

Coastal-inland travel in all likelihood extended beyond the limits of any particular ahupua‘a. But McEldowney suggests that paths in the upper subalpine region were not defined; rather, travelers followed “prominent landmarks rather than set or distinct trails.” (Tuggle)

It was not until the second half of the 1800s that specific routes up the mountain were established, probably related to the building and use of ranch establishments at ‘Umikoa (Kukaiau Ranch) and Humu‘ula (Humuula Sheep Station) as base camps.

A major cross-island trail crossed the upper edge of the Hakalau Forest area. In the 19th century, it was called the Laumai‘a road, but it likely originated in earlier times.  The present Keanakolu Road probably roughly follows the Laumai‘a alignment.  (Tuggle)

Cordy describes a trail on the east flank of Mauna Kea that connected Kohala, Waimea, and Hāmākua with Hilo. This could be the trail that was used by the high chief ‘Umi in his conquest of Hilo. (Kamakau, Tuggle)

“It was shorter to go by way of the mountain [Mauna Kea] to the trail of Poli‘ahu and Poli‘ahu’s spring at the top of Mauna Kea, and then down toward Hilo. It was an ancient trail used by those of Hamakua, Kohala, and Waimea to go to Hilo.”

Nineteenth century accounts document travel between Kawaihae and Hilo using a mountain route, although the specific alignment of the road may have varied somewhat from the earlier traditional trail.

Although this road probably follows the general alignment of earlier routes, there was a different path for what was alternatively referred to as the Laumai‘a road, the Laumai‘a-Hopuwai road, the Laumai‘a-Hope-a trail, or the connection to the Mānā (Waimea) road. (Tuggle)

The Kalai‘eha-Laumai‘a Trail, was paved with stones in the late 1800s to facilitate transportation of goods around the mountain. (ASM)  (Kalai‘eha is the large pu‘u (cinder cone) near Saddle Road on DHHL property, Hilo side of the Mauna Kea Access Road.)

Formal surveys of the Hilo-Kalai‘eha-Waimea government road via Waiki‘i (the early Saddle Road) were begun in 1862. The Kalai‘eha-Waiki‘i alignment remained basically the same until after the outbreak of World War II, and the paving of the “Saddle Road” in the 1940s.

In the area from Kilohana (on the north side of the present-day Girl Scout Camp) to Waiki‘i proper, the route is almost as it was finally laid out in 1869 (overlaying one of the ancient trails through the area), except for widening.

The Kalai‘eha-Hilo section of the route remained basically as constructed in 1869, but because of the dense forest vegetation and the difficulty encountered in traveling through the region, the route received little maintenance and use by travelers other than those on foot or horseback, generally on their way to one of the ranch stations or the summit of Mauna Kea. (Kumu Pono)

The Waimea-Mānā-Kula‘imano-Hilo route along the upper forest line of Hāmākua and Hilo, was developed in 1854, with subsequent modifications in 1877, and again in the 1890s, as a part of the Humu‘ula Sheep Station operation.

Further modifications to the Kalai‘eha-Keanakolu-Mānā route were made as a part of the tenure of Parker Ranch-Humu‘ula Sheep Station, the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), and Territorial Forestry tenure of the land. (Kumu Pono)

Access along the eastern side of Mauna Kea was by the old Waimea-Laumai‘a road, which was greatly improved by the CCC; “a truck trail has been cleared along the old horse trails on this mountain so that now one may negotiate the trip completely around Mauna Kea at the general elevation of 7,000 feet in an automobile.” (Judd, Tuggle)

In the 1930s, the CCC, under the direction of L Bill Bryan, undertook improvements on the mountain roads, particularly the section between Kalai‘eha and Keanakolu.

In 1942, following the outbreak of World War II, the US Army began realignment and improvements of the route that became known as the Saddle Road. Territorial ownership of the road was assumed on June 30, 1947.  (Kumu Pono)

Construction on the Alanui Aupuni from coastal Kona to the saddle lands was actually begun in 1849, and ten miles of the road, completed by 1850. The route was cut off by the lava flow of 1859, and all but abandoned by public use; though it remained in use by ranchers and those traveling between Kona, the saddle region, and Waimea until the early 1900s. (Kumu Pono)

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Heinrich Zimmermann’s Account of ‘Contact’

Heinrich Zimmermann (1741–1805) was one of the few Germans who participated in James Cook’s voyages of discovery. As a sailor in the third voyage (1776 to 1779), he kept a journal that later became the basis for his account Reise um die Welt, which was translated into English and later published as Account of the Third Voyage of Captain Cook.

“I commenced my wanderings in the year 1770, and, being unable to obtain work in my profession of belt-maker, partly because at that time I had little knowledge of foreign languages and partly on account of the lack of artisans, I was forced to take to other means of earning my livelihood …”

“… so that at one time I was employed at Geneva by a brazier, and also by a gilder; at another time at Lyons by a bellfounder; and again by a sword-cutler at Paris ; and in a sugar-refinery in London.”

“The natural courage of a native of the Palatinate determined me to adopt a seafaring life, and as in the year 1776 two war-sloops, the old ‘Resolution’ and ‘Discovery,’ were being sent out by Great Britain on an exploring expedition, on 11th March of the same year I signed on the latter ship as a common sailor.”

“The ‘Resolution’ had 112 men and sixteen guns, and the ‘Discovery’ 72 men and twelve guns on board: the former was commanded by the famous circumnavigator Captain James Cook as Commodore, and the latter by Captain Charles Clerke.”

“On 12th May of the aforesaid year – 1776 – both ships put to sea from the port of Deptford, and after we had laid in the requisite supplies of ammunition at Woolwich and of provisions at Plymouth the ‘Resolution’ sailed on 12th July, her immediate goal being the Cape of Good Hope.”

“The ‘Discovery’ was prevented from leaving at this time, but she followed the ‘Resolution’ on 1st August. The principal object of the voyage was the discovery of a passage between the two continents of America and Asia on the north-western or north-eastern side …”

“… and for this a prize of £10,000 had been offered, or a further sum of £5,000 if we reached the 5th degree from the Pole. The well-known Tahitian O-mai was also to be returned to his home.”

“From Plymouth our course was set towards the promontory of the Cape of Good Hope, almost directly south, and past the Canary Islands, off the kingdom of Morocco, in Africa, and we bore towards the south-east without setting foot upon a single island.”

After sailing in areas of the South Pacific, Zimmermann notes, “our supply of fresh water becoming very reduced, we were obliged to distil sea-water. …”

“By good fortune we discovered, on 20th January [1778], in about 22 degrees north latitude and 225 east longitude, a somewhat hilly island, and were encouraged to think that we might find fresh water here. Many of the inhabitants came off to us in their canoes; they were the finest of all the native peoples we had met with.”

“We tried to tempt them to the ships with friendly signs and by exhibiting various presents; these latter they at first refused, and from their evident astonishment at our ships we perceived that they had never seen ships before.”

“One of them at length ventured to come close to the ships, and he was presented with a piece of red cloth; whereupon his companions took courage and approached likewise, and they too received presents.”

“On being shown the live pigs which we had on board, and which we had brought with us from Tahiti, they immediately cried Booa, and from this and from the rest of their speech it was evident that the language in use here was not unlike that of the Tahitians.”

“They pointed to the island and made signs to indicate to us that they too had pigs, and they understood at once when we indicated that we would be glad to be supplied with some of these animals. Thereupon some of them returned to the island and brought a number of pigs, which they presented to us without asking anything in return.”

“They had now become more trusting, and even ventured to come aboard the ships: we learned that the name of the island was Nihau, and that there was fresh water close by.”

“Captain Cook now ordered out three boats to search for this fresh water, and while preparations were in progress one of the natives stole a kitchen knife from the kitchen of the ‘Resolution,’ sprang overboard, and hurried ashore in his canoe. We followed him in the boats which had just been lowered, but, as he ventured into the raging surf, we were unable to catch him.”

“We fired a few shots after him, but fortunately did not hit him, and his fellow-countrymen hurrying the thief with his booty away to a place of safety, we did not obtain our stolen property.”

“By Captain Cook’s orders, the three boats, under the command of Lieutenant Williamson, an Irishman, then went ashore to look for water, and a suitable landing-place was found.”

“While we were still a short distance from the shore the inhabitants gathered there to the number of about fifty, ran into the sea, lifted up Lieutenant Williamson’s boat, together with its whole crew, and were about to carry it ashore on their backs.”

“The men in the boats could not at first understand whether this was an act of friendship or of enmity, and they struck at the fingers of the islanders with the oars; but as the islanders refused to desist from their doubtful attentions, and one of them attempted to snatch Lieutenant Williamson’s gun out of his hand, the Lieutenant shot the man down on the spot.”

“The rest of the natives at once dropped the boat into the water, picked up the wounded man, and with great lamentations carried him away into the bush.”

“We now returned to the ship and informed Captain Cook of what had occurred. The captain reprimanded Lieutenant Williamson severely for his action, and the following day went himself with the same three boats and to the same spot on the shore.”

“A much larger crowd of inhabitants was now gathered here than on the day before. Captain Cook gave orders that no one was to leave the boats, and he gave his gun to a sailor and went ashore alone, armed only with a hunting-knife.”

“As soon as he set foot on shore all the people fell on their faces: Cook looked round him and laughed heartily; then he lifted up some of the eldest, and those who appeared from their clothing to be the aristocrats of the land, embraced them, and gave them presents.”

“The rest of the people remained on their faces, but four of them went away and brought the king, each of them holding a handful of sugar-cane over his head as a parasol.”

“The king approached quite close to Captain Cook and bowed low before him. Cook gave him a necklace of glass beads, himself hanging it round his neck; he also presented him with a mirror.”

“Only when Captain Cook had gone farther inland to look for water did the kneeling people rise to their feet. While he was absent the inhabitants brought us quantities of pigs and fruit, which they presented to us, and with which our boats were soon full.”

“On the return of Captain Cook we went back to the ships and brought them close to the place where he had located a small fresh-water stream, and, the anchor being dropped, preparations were made for laying in a supply of water.”

“Another party went ashore and traded with the natives, receiving provisions, but particularly pigs, yams, coconuts, and plantains, which were plentiful on this island, in exchange for nails, mirrors, bead necklaces, and knives.”

“The women here, besides being beautiful, were very obliging, outdoing in both these respects the women in any of the other islands in the South Seas.”

“Captain Cook had, however, forbidden us to have any dealings with them on pain of a heavy punishment; indeed, the whole crew had to submit to an examination, and any men who were found to be diseased were refused permission to go ashore.”

“Captain Cook was of opinion that there were other islands in this neighbourhood, but as the time had come for us to turn northwards, in pursuance of the main object of our voyage, we could not at this time visit those islands/nor occupy, ourselves with other discoveries, but postponed this until our return.”

“We did, however, touch at one small island which lay somewhat to the west, and about eight miles from Nihau, as the inhabitants gave us to understand that there were many yams there.”

“By barter with the islanders we obtained great quantities of these roots, which were the largest we had ever seen, most of them weighing from 15 lb. to 20 lb. Captain Cook called this island Yams Island. He presented the king with a pair of goats.”

“On 2nd February we continued without interruption our voyage towards the north-western coast of America, and began to approach our destination.” (Zimmermann)

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

‘Akiapōlā‘au

The ‘Akiapōlā‘au, a species of honeycreeper endemic to (found only in) Hawai‘i.  The ʻAkiapōlāʻau was fairly abundant and widely distributed on the island of Hawai‘i until the 1970s.

Since then, both its range and abundance have severely declined, and it is now only found in high-elevation forests. The species was listed as endangered in 1967 under the Endangered Species Act.  (American Bird Conservancy)

The ‘Akiap̄olā‘au occurs as two disjunct populations in the windward and Kau regions on the Island of Hawai‘i and total population is approximately 1,900 birds (2009). Trend analysis indicates density is increasing in Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge in north windward Hawaii (2016). (FWS)

Their distribution occurs in forests dominated by koa and ‘ōhi‘a between 4,875 and 6,500 feet elevation on the Island of Hawai‘i. Their original range likely included all forested areas of the island.

Adult males have a bright yellow head and underparts, yellow-green back and wings, and a small, black mask. Adult females are olive above with grayish-yellow to yellow underparts. Males are larger than females and have longer bills. (DLNR)

Female ʻAkiapolaʻau show a strong preference for ‘ōhi‘a trees as nest sites. They build their nests using strips of ‘ōhi‘a bark, incorporating a unique “picket fence” rim. The strips of bark protruding around the perimeter may help camouflage the nesting female from hawks and other predators.

The ʻAkiapōlāʻau only lays one egg (rarely two) during its nesting season and then cares for its fledgling for at least 4 to 5 months. This low reproductive rate makes the species particularly vulnerable to threats and slow to recover. (DLNR)

Even though the ‘Akiapōlā‘au breeds any time of the year, this species is known as a slow reproducer, as breeding typically occurs only every other year.  The peak of the breeding season is most commonly from early February to late July.

The ‘Akiapōlā‘au is monogamous. Once a pair is formed, the partners remain together for several seasons.  During the breeding season, the male defends a small territory.  (FWS)

‘Akiapōlā‘au are mainly insectivorous, with larva and spiders being the most important prey items; rarely takes nectar but takes sap from holes it excavates in ‘ōhi‘a trees. (DLNR)

The ‘Akiap̄olā‘au has evolved to fill the niche occupied by woodpeckers in many other parts of the world.  (FWS)  They have one of the most unusual bills in the Hawaiian honeycreeper family, with a long, downward-curving upper mandible, used for probing, and a shorter lower mandible that functions as a chisel.

This specialized bill allows the species to exploit the same niche occupied by woodpeckers in other parts of the world. ʻAkiapōlāʻau even make woodpecker-like tapping sounds as they forage along tree limbs in search of insects. (American Bird Conservancy)

Here are links videos of ‘Akiapōlā‘au by Jack Jeffrey:

https://www.facebook.com/jack.jeffrey.351/videos/761717921690744

https://www.facebook.com/jack.jeffrey.351/videos/1351613492271592

I am happy to be a member of the Board of the Friends of Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge (https://friendsofhakalauforest.org/).

The ‘Akiapōlā‘au is featured on the Friends’ logo. (Please consider joining the Friends of Hakalau Forest https://friendsofhakalauforest.org/membership/.

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

William Ellis’ Account of ‘Contact’ and the Initial Days of Western Experiences in Hawai‘i

William Wade Ellis was a surgeon’s mate during Captain James Cook’s third voyage, first on the Discovery and later on the Resolution, and gives quite a good history of this expedition. Ellis wrote a book and added illustrations.  Here is his account of ‘Contact’ and description of what he saw.

Just prior to reaching Hawai‘i, they landed at Christmas Island – Ellis reminds us of signs of land … “we observed a greater number of birds than usual, which increased as we continued our course; and most of them being such as never fly very far from land, we concluded ourselves to be in the neighbourhood of some.”

“Orders were given to keep a good look out; and we stood on, the birds (which were boobies, men of war birds, egg birds, and tropic birds) becoming more numerous … This place … we called Christmas Island (having spent that anniversary there)”.

They left Christmas Island and “Our course from hence was nearly north; we had a fine steady breeze, and the weather was fine and pleasant. … The next day (Jan. 18, 1778) … we saw land to the eastward … but night coming on, we tacked and stood off till morning (Jan. 19th), when we proceeded to trace the coast [of Kauai] in a SW and W direction.”

“The land at first presented rather a barren appearance, but upon a closer view it improved upon us, particularly on the western side, which consisted of a large tract of fine level plains, and beyond them a double range of hills, which were covered with trees.”

“Upon the shore we saw a few clusters of coco nut trees, but by no means so abundant as at the Society Isles. As we drew nearer in-shore, some of the inhabitants put off in their canoes, and very readily came along side.”

“Their colour was more of the copper cast than that of the natives of Taheitee, and they wore their hair long, and of different hues, like the people of the Friendly Isles. Their dress was nothing more than a narrow slip of cloth round their middle, and they were marked or tattowed in different parts of their body.”

“Their cloth was stamped or printed in various patterns, not much unlike our printed linens; their language nearly resembled that of Taheitee. They were easily persuaded to come on board, and, like all other Indians soon began to thieve, but nothing of any consequence was lost.”

“We saw no weapons among them, nor did they behave abruptly or disagreeably, but in their disposition seemed friendly and good natured. We purchased a few pigs and sweet potatoes of them, for which we gave them a hatchet or two, and a few small nails, with which they appeared very well satisfied. In the evening we stood off, intending to examine the place more closely the next day.”

“In the morning (Jan. 20th) at six, captain Cook made a signal for the Discovery’s fix-oared cutter, which, accompanied with the Resolution’s pinnace and large cutter, was sent to look for a safe place for the ships to anchor, and to try what soundings were to be found nearer in shore.”

“During their absence, we stood off and on, being fearful of venturing too near. The natives came off as yesterday, and we bought a few hogs, tarrow, sweet potatoes, and sugar cane, of all which they appeared to have plenty, and excellent of their kind.”

“At three in the afternoon the boats returned, having found a tolerable birth, and at four both vessels came to. Soon after captain Cook went on shore in the pinnace, attended by the Discovery’s cutter, both well-armed.”

“He was received on shore very cordially by the natives, who treated him during his stay with great respect and attention , and brought many small hogs, potatoes, tarrow, or eddoes, and sugar-cane, all which were purchased at a very easy rate.”

“The women were rather ordinary, and in general masculine, and will scarce bear a comparison with the fair dames of Taheitee.”

“Their dress is the same as that of the men, only the cloth is wider, and reaches down to the knees. Their hair is cut short behind, and long before, but turned back like our toupees, which mode of wearing it does not set them off to the greatest advantage.”

“Many, who were along-side in their canoes, pleaded hard to come on board, but captain Cook had given strict orders, previous to his anchoring, not to suffer a single woman to be admitted into the ships, as there were several people in both, who still had the venereal disease.”

“But, notwithstanding every precaution, many of our men contrived to have connexions with them, in consequence of which we found this terrible disorder raging among them when we arrived there the second time.”

“The next day (Jan. 21st), the launches were sent to fill water, which could be procured without much difficulty, from a fine river at no great distance from the ships, and parties were dispatched to the shore to trade with the natives, while others were to superintend the market on board the ships.”

“They supplied us with abundance of every thing the island produced, and in the evening our trading parties returned with abundance of fine hogs, potatoes, sugar-cane, &c.”

“The 22d was very windy, with much rain, which prevented our boats from landing, as a heavy surf broke upon the shore. Our friends however came off in the midst of it, and a brisk trade was carried on, on board.”

“We also purchased many of their ornaments, such as fans, necklaces, bracelets, cloaks, and caps, composed of red and yellow feathers, which were very curious, the latter being made in form of helmets.”

“They also brought off some spears, which were about ten feet long, admirably polished, and the end intended for execution was about eight or ten inches in length, had many barbs, and was pointed.”

“Early the next morning (Jan. 24th,) … About nine, the king of the island came alongside in a double canoe; captain Clerke, understanding who he was, requested him much to come on board, which he appeared willing to do, but his attendants were so fearful of his receiving some hurt or other, that they intreated him not to do it.”

“He ventured however as far as the gangway, where he sat down, and presented the captain with a curious carved bowl; in return for which he received some large nails, a cut-glass bowl, and some other trifles, which pleased him exceedingly. After a short stay; his attendants bore him in their arms to his canoe, and he went ashore.”

“His name was Tomahana; he appeared to be about thirty years old, and was above the middle size; he was clothed in the same manner as the meanest of his subjects, and could only be distinguished by the great respect they paid him. Soon after his departure, the queen arrived in another canoe, and in the same manner was permitted to go no farther than the gangway.”

“She likewise made captain Clerke a present of some elegant ruffs made of various coloured feathers, for which he gave her some beads, looking glasses, and a piece of scarlet cloth; after which she was carried into her canoe, and proceeded to the shore. She was young, and had a pleasing countenance, but her dress was not remarkable.”

They then headed to Ni‘ihau. “This island was considerably smaller than the other, and had rather a wretched appearance; the south point of it is terminated by a high bluff rock, the interior parts are low, with here and there a small elevation, and not a tree is to be seen.”

“In the morning (30th), our new acquired friends came off with sweet potatoes, yams, and salt; in the two latter articles they seemed to abound. The yams were large, and the salt was equal to any we ever saw, both for colour and quality.”

“The boats were sent on shore to trade as usual, but they found the landing far more difficult than at the last place, on account of a very heavy surf, which, when the wind varies in the least to the westward, rolls in at so terrible a rate, as totally to cut off all communication with the shore.”

“In the evening, they brought off what few articles they conveniently could, but left two or three of the gentlemen behind, who superintended the market, till the weather should be more moderate.”

“This morning (Feb. 1st), the weather being more moderate, the boats were sent on shore, and in the afternoon brought off the gentlemen, with some yams and salt, but were obliged to leave the principal part of their purchases behind.”

“A number of the natives came off to the Discovery the next day (Feb. 2d), with their canoes laden with salt, yams, sweet potatoes, and fish dried and salted, of the roots, a sufficient quantity were purchased to supply the ship’s company two months at least.”

“A’towi, which is the name of the largest island, is composed, on the NW side, of a large tract of level land, the interior parts, as has been observed, before, consisting of a double range of hills.”

“The houses of the natives are in general situated near the shore, and placed in clusters, so as to form small towns or villages.  Their external appearance greatly resembles the top of a barn placed upon the ground, with a small entrance in the middle.”

“Some of them were elevated upon posts about three feet high, particularly those nearest the sea; from which we may conclude, that they are, during some parts of the year, subject to inundations. They are well thatched on the outside with dry grass, so as totally to prevent the entrance of rain.”

“The floor is also well strewed with dry grass, upon which mats of various sizes and dimensions are placed. These mats are of a very close, compact texture, and made of different patterns, some of which are really elegant. They vary greatly in their degree of fineness.”

“Their canoes or boats are the neatest we ever saw, and composed of two different coloured woods, the bottom being dark, the upper part light, and furnished with an out-rigger.”

“Besides these, they have another mode of conveying themselves in the water, upon very light flat pieces of board, which we called sharkboards, from the similitude the anterior part bore to the head of that fish.  Upon these they will venture into the heaviest surfs, and paddling with their hands and feet get on at a great rate. Indeed, we never saw people so active in the water, which almost seems their natural element.”

“O’neehow, which is the westernmost island, is very small, and rather low.  It produces sugar-cane, plaintains, sweet potatoes, yams, and salt; in the two latter articles it exceeds A’towi. The inhabitants are not numerous; their houses, &c. are exacty like those of the above mentioned isle.”

“In the afternoon of the 2d of February, the Discovery joined her consort, and proceeded in a NNE and NE direction for the coast of America.”

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Moananuiākea

Moananuiākea is the domain of Kanaloa, god of the ocean.  It is the ancestral home of the Hawaiian people.  Kealaikahiki is the name of an ancestral sea road that forms a heritage corridor connecting Hawaiʻi and the Kahiki Homeland. (KSBE)

“Kahiki” or “Kahiki Homeland” is a specific reference to the ancestral region that includes the Society Islands, Tuamotu Archipelago, and the Marquesas Islands, and may generally refer to other closely-related island groups.  (He Kama Na Kahiki Symposium)

Kahoʻolawe (Kanaloa) is an important ancestral marker for the Kealaikahiki pathway. The ʻili, the point, and the channel known as Kealaikahiki, as well as the island of Kahoʻolawe itself, constitute these markers. (He Kama Na Kahiki Symposium)

“Polynesian explorers first made their remarkable voyage from central Eastern Polynesia Islands, across the doldrums and into the North Pacific, to discover Hawai‘i.”  (Kirch)

“Most important from the perspective of Hawaiian settlement are the colonization dates for the Society Islands and the Marquesas, as these two archipelagoes have long been considered to be the immediate source regions for the first Polynesian voyagers to Hawai‘i. …”

“In sum, the southeastern archipelagoes and islands of Eastern Polynesia have a set of radiocarbon chronologies now converging on the period from AD 900–1000.”  (Kirch)

Research indicates human colonization of Eastern Polynesia took place much faster and more recently than previously thought. Polynesian ancestors settled in Samoa around 800 BC, colonized the central Society Islands between AD 1025 and 1120 and dispersed to New Zealand, Hawaiʻi and Rapa Nui and other locations between AD 1190 and 1290.  (Hunt; PVS)

“There is also no question that at least O‘ahu and Kauai islands were already well settled, with local populations established in several localities, by AD 1200.”  (Kirch)

On November 28 1520, Ferdinand Magellan was the first European to enter “Sea of the South” (which he later named the Pacific (meaning peaceful)) and thereby open up to Spain the possibility of an alternative route between Europe and the spices of the Orient.”  (Lloyd)

Ferdinand Magellan is often credited as being the first person to have circumnavigated the globe; his expedition of five ships and crew of 270 set sail on September 20, 1519 as part of an attempt to find a western route to the spice-rich East Indies in modern-day Indonesia.

Some history books still say Ferdinand Magellan “is most known for being the first explorer to circumnavigate the world.” (The Brave Magellan: The First Man To Circumnavigate The World – Biography 3rd Grade Children’s Biography Books)

However, although he had masterminded the first expedition to sail around the world, he didn’t complete the voyage.  Along the way, Magellan was killed on April 27, 1521 on Mactan Island, Cebu, Philippines.

The first European to complete the circumnavigation was Magellan’s second-in-command, Juan Sebastian de Elcano, who took over after his death. At that point, the final crew had only 18 men. (Royal Museums Greenwich and PennToday)

Almost 50 years after the death of Christopher Columbus, Manila galleons finally fulfilled their dream of sailing west to Asia to benefit from the rich Indian Ocean trade.

Starting in 1565, with the Spanish sailor and friar Andrés de Urdaneta, after discovering the Tornaviaje or return route to Mexico through the Pacific Ocean, Spanish galleons sailed the Pacific Ocean between Acapulco in New Spain (now Mexico) and Manila in the Philippine islands.

Once a year, gold and silver were transported west to Manila in exchange spices (pepper, clove and cinnamon), porcelain, ivory, lacquer and elaborate fabrics (silk, velvet, satin), collected from both the Spice Islands (Indonesia) and the Asian Pacific coast, in European markets.

The galleons leaving Manila would make their way back to Acapulco in a four-month long journey.  The goods were off-loaded and transported across land to ships on the other Mexican coast at Veracruz, and eventually, sent to European markets and customers eager for these exotic wares.  (GuamPedia) The Manila Galleon Trade lasted for 250 years and ended in 1815 with Mexico’s war of independence.

“The English circumnavigations by Drake (1577-1580) and Cavendish (1586-1588) were not rich in discoveries. The Dutch merchant Isaac Ie Maire, with Willem Corneliszoon Schouten, reached the Pacific in 1615 via Cape Horn (which they named)”.

“Sailing from there, the Dutch had made several sightings of the coast of Australia, north, west and south, in the early seventeenth century, and Anthony van Diemen, governor-general of the Dutch East Indies from 1631 to 1645, was responsible for a number of expeditions”.

“[L]ater, another Dutch expedition, under Jacob Roggeveen, left the Netherlands in 1721 in search of the southern continent.  Roggeveen went through the Strait of Le Maire and found Easter Island and Samoa before reaching Batavia after a year’s voyage.”

“The English had now come strongly on the scene, with the expeditions of Narborough up the South American coast (1669-1671), a mixed assembly of buccaneers, adventurers and privateers, including Dampier, Wafer, Cowley, Ringrose, Woodes, Rogers and Shelvocke, followed by the grand naval expedition of 1740-1744 under Anson.”

“As far as discoveries go, the most important of these men was the remarkable amateur William Dampier, whose painfully assembled New Voyage Round the World (1697) set alight the imagination of eighteenth-century England.”

“On this first voyage Dampier had touched on Australia (New Holland), ‘a very large Tract of Land’, and had thought the inhabitants ‘the miserablest People in the World’. He returned on his second voyage but was only able to make a cursory investigation of the north-western and northern coasts.”

“The major period of English exploration in the Pacific followed the ending of the Seven Years War with France in 1763. The Earl of Egmont, First Lord of the Admiralty from 1763 until 1766, sent out John Byron in the Dolphin in 1764, and on its return from a speedy circumnavigation in 1766, sent the ship out again under Samuel Wallis, with Philip Carteret in the Swallow as consort.”

“James Cook, thirty-nine years of age, a master in the Navy engaged on the survey of Newfoundland, was proposed by the Navy, and during April and May 1768 it was agreed that he should become leader of the expedition.” (The Journal; Edwards)

In the dawn hours of January 18, 1778, on his third expedition, British explorer Captain James Cook on the HMS Resolution and Captain Charles Clerke of the HMS Discovery first sighted what Cook named the Sandwich Islands (that were later named the Hawaiian Islands.)

Hawaiian lives changed with sudden and lasting impact, when western contact changed the course of history for Hawai‘i.

Following the American Revolutionary War, American Captain John Kendrick was among the first citizens of the new nation to sail into the Pacific. The new nation needed money and a vital surge in trade.

In 1787, a group of Boston merchants decided to send him on a two ship mission around Cape Horn and into the Pacific Ocean, to establish new trade with China, settle an outpost on territory claimed by the Spanish and find the legendary Northwest Passage.

The maritime fur trade focused on acquiring furs of sea otters, seals and other animals from the Pacific Northwest Coast and Alaska. The furs were to be mostly sold in China in exchange for tea, silks, porcelain and other Chinese goods to be sold in the US.

Kendrick visited Hawai‘i a number of times and is credited for initiating the sandalwood trade (Hawai‘i’s first commercial export). He died at Honolulu Harbor, December 12, 1794.

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