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May 22, 2017 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Branfleet

French Actor George Brangier met Duke Kahanamoku in Los Angeles while both were acting. Brangier asked Kahanamoku to teach him how to surf. Kahanamoku agreed. Brangier moved to Hawai‘i in 1928. He later returned to the Islands after serving his French military obligations. (Nendel)

Brangier and a California surfer, Nat Norfleet Sr, started Branfleet in January 1936 at 1704 King Street. “We began like nearly everybody else in the business – not with a pair of shoestrings but with on shoestring between the two of us.” (Norfleet; Devine & Marcus)

“Red McQueen had brought back from the 1932 Olympics in Japan some shirts made out of silk kimono cloth. We copied them to produce our first aloha shirts. … Elmer Lee had a stand in front of the old Outrigger Canoe Club where he sold coconut milk and pineapple juice, and he sold our horrible shirts.” (Devine & Marcus)

The company was one of the first to switch from making strictly tailor-made shirts to making them through a manufacturing process. (On July 23, 1939, they moved into a factory on Kapiʻolani Boulevard. (Krauss))

“The factory will turn out a complete garment from the design and pattern of the finished product. A special designer, Betty Gregory, will design for Branfleet sports wear. A staff of 45 persons is employed by the company.” (Advertiser, July 23, 1939)

In 1937 Branfleet signed Duke Kahanamoku to a five-year contract allowing them to use the noted champion’s name on their sportswear. The shirt tag stated, “this is designed by Duke Kahanamoku, World’s Champion swimmer, and is made in the Hawaiian Islands.”

Kahanamoku’s name recognition allowed Branfleet to be the first Hawaiian company “to supply sportswear to the US mainland on a large scale.”

The agreement allowed Kahanamoku to make 35 cents per dozen shorts sold and $1.00 per dozen for shirts sold. Since a dozen shirts typically sold for an average of $12.00 wholesale, Kahanamoku’s take ended up being less than 10% of the sales. (Nendel)

“Branfleet is the originator of ‘Duke Kahanamoku’ shirts and swim suits, also the ‘Kahala’ brand of all types of women’s sportswear, and the popular island ‘in and ‘out’ shirt.” (Advertiser, July 23, 1939)

With both their “Kahala Sportswear” and “Duke Kahanamoku Beachwear” lines, under the Branfleet label, Brangier and Norfleet would eventually (1951) rename their company Kahala to avoid confusion.

Considering that the aloha wear industry and Branfleet were relative newcomers to the mainland marketplace this contract represented a reasonably fair deal for Kahanamoku.

However, due to the novelty and youth of the industry the company never approached the great success that they had envisioned at the start of the contract. (Nendel)

Branfleet popularized a fabric they trademarked as “Pineapple Tweed”, which was a rough but strong linen, and was used in simple long sleeved shirts adorned with the Hawaiian crest and its motto.

During World War II, the Aloha shirt industry thrived as GIs stationed on the Islands wore them while off-duty, and the shirt became popular with locals now deprived of imports.

After the war, servicemen transported them back to Mainland. Between the 1940s and ‘60s, Kahala’s complete line of women’s clothing met with great success across the country, and the firm went on to produce clothing for some of the era’s best surfers.

The “Duke” was associated with the company again in 1961. During this period a Duke Kahanamoku label was created with the words “made in Hawai‘i by Kahala” directly beneath Duke’s name. (Myers)

But by the 1970s the company had fallen into disarray. Once one of America’s leading clothiers, it finally went bankrupt. Dale Hope bought the Kahala name in 1979.

“We wanted to keep its legacy going with quality garments, and interesting art reflecting a passion for the Islands,” he recalls. “But it had a formidable reputation.” (Myers)

Hope had been working with his dad in the men’s shirt business under the label HRH (His Royal Highness.) “Our label was confused with the English royalty; it wasn’t romantic; and it was a hard name to advertise,” says Hope.

The name Kahala was also the name of a fashionable O‘ahu neighborhood bounded by Kahala Beach. “I wanted to change the name,” he says, “so we threw a big garden party and fashion show at a house on Kahala Beach.” He sold in 1991; then, Tori Richard bought the company in 2006.

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Branfleet Ad-Adv-July_23,_1939
Branfleet Ad-Adv-July_23,_1939
George Brangier
George Brangier
Jackie Eberle, Robert August, Dick Metz, Nat Norfleet and Duke Kahanamoku-McCullough-1965
Jackie Eberle, Robert August, Dick Metz, Nat Norfleet and Duke Kahanamoku-McCullough-1965
New Factory for Branfleet-Adv-July_23,_1939
New Factory for Branfleet-Adv-July_23,_1939
Kahala-Logo
Kahala-Logo
The Kahala-label
The Kahala-label
KA-Holiday Voyage-Green
KA-Holiday Voyage-Green
Kahala-Aloha Tapa
Kahala-Aloha Tapa
KA_TheReef
KA_TheReef
KA_Tahitian Gardenia
KA_Tahitian Gardenia
retro surfer
retro surfer

Filed Under: General, Prominent People, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Duke Kahanamoku, Aloha Shirt, Branfleet, Kahala

May 21, 2017 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Nootka Sound

“Their Britannic and Catholic Majesties being desirous of terminating, by a speedy and valid agreement, the differences which have lately arisen between the two Crowns, have considered that the best way of attaining this salutary object would be that of an amicable arrangement which …”

“… setting aside all retrospective discussions of the rights and pretensions of the two parties, should regulate their respective positions for the future on the bases which would be conformable to their true interests …”

“… as well as to the mutual desires with which Their said Majesties are animated, of establishing with each other, in everything and in all places, the most perfect friendship, harmony, and good correspondence.” (Nootka Sound Convention)

Let’s look back …

Spain claimed the Pacific as its exclusive territory by right of the Treaty of Tordesillas (1494). Britain argued that navigation was open to any nation, and territorial claims had to be backed by effective occupation.

British and Spanish claims to the Pacific Northwest had overlapped since the 16th century, though conflict developed only after voyages to the region by Cook, Dixon, Meares and others. (Boston Rare Maps)

In July 1789 Esteban Martínez, Spanish commandant at Nootka Sound, seized several British merchant ships. John Meares, part owner of these ships, reported the seizure to his government in his Memorial of 30 April 1790.

Britain demanded compensation and threatened war, but Spain declined to pay compensation and prepared for war, hoping its long-standing Bourbon ally, France, would provide assistance. (Historica Canada)

The resulting crisis brought the two nations close to war, but the Spanish backed off after realizing that without the help of France—distracted by the Revolution—they could not hope to match British naval power.

The result was the first Nootka Convention (signed October 28, 1790), in which the Spanish acknowledged the British right to maintain outposts in Nootka Sound and engage in whaling outside a “Ten-League Line” off the Northwest coast. (Boston Rare Maps)

Under the terms of 3 conventions Spain was obliged to accede to British requests and compensate the British for their losses. Under the third Nootka Convention (January 11, 1794) Spain and Britain recognized each other’s rights of trade at Nootka Sound and in other Pacific coast areas not already controlled by Spain.

Subjects of either nation could erect temporary buildings at Nootka, but not permanent garrisons or factories. Neither nation could claim exclusive sovereignty.

Nootka Sound was to be maintained as a free port by Spain and Britain, and to be open to other nations. On March 28, 1795 both countries completed their withdrawal from Nootka Sound. The controversy ended in symbolic victory for British mercantile and political interests. (Historica Canada)

Peace in the Pacific allowed for commerce to the Hawaiian Islands to expand, as well as expand the roles of a new player, the US.

In those days, European and East Coast continental commerce needed to round Cape Horn of South America to get to the Pacific (although the Arctic northern route was shorter and sometimes used, it could mean passage in cold and stormy seas, and in many cases the shorter distance might take longer and cost more than the southern route.)

The traders and whalers found ‘The Islands,’ as they called the Hawaiian group, an ideal place to procure fresh provisions, in the course of their three-year voyages.

“… the Sandwich Islands offer a station for intermediate repose, where health animates the gales, and every species of refreshment is to be found on the shores.” (Meares)

Of the ships that visited the islands, all but a small fraction were American. “The commerce of the United States, which resorts to the Sandwich islands, may be classed under five heads, viz.:”

“First, Those vessels which trade direct from the United States to these islands, for sandal-wood, and from hence to China and Manilla, and return to America.” (Annually, the number may be estimated at six.)

“Second, Those vessels which are bound to the north-west coast, on trading voyages for furs, and touch here on their outward-bound passage, generally winter at these islands, and always stop on their return to the United States, by the way of China.” (The number may be estimated at five.)

“Third, Those vessels which, on their passage from Chili, Peru, Mexico, or California, to China, Manilla, or the East Indies, stop at these islands for refreshments or repairs, to obtain freight, or dispose of what small cargoes they may have left.” (The number may be estimated at eight.)

“Fourth, Those vessels which are owned by Americans resident at these islands, and employed by them in trading to the northwest coast, to California and Mexico, to Canton and Manilla.” (The number may be estimated at six.)

“Fifth, Those vessels which are employed in the whale-fishery on the coast of Japan, which visit semi-annually.” (The number may be estimated at one hundred.).” (John Coffin Jones Jr, US Consulate, Sandwich Islands, October 30th, 1829)

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Vancouver-Friendly-Cove
Vancouver-Friendly-Cove
The launching of the North West America Ships of Meares at Nootka Sound in 1788-Webber
The launching of the North West America Ships of Meares at Nootka Sound in 1788-Webber
Seizure of Capt. Colnett during the Nootka Crisis in 1789
Seizure of Capt. Colnett during the Nootka Crisis in 1789
Nootka Sound
Nootka Sound
The New South Sea Fishery or A Cheap Way to Catch Whales-Political-Cartoon-1791
The New South Sea Fishery or A Cheap Way to Catch Whales-Political-Cartoon-1791
Nootka_Sound_NASA
Nootka_Sound_NASA

Filed Under: General, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks, Economy Tagged With: Nootka Convention, Hawaii, Northwest, Nootka Sound

May 17, 2017 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Train Terminal, Depot

Benjamin Franklin (Frank) Dillingham’s OR&L company, created in 1889, changed the landscape of west Honolulu. Its first train depot was created between a fishpond and North King Street, next to Prison Road, later renamed Iwilei Road.

The first section of track extended only as far as Aiea, but by the 1920s, tracks had been laid all over the island. The train was the primary mode of transportation. (Burlingame)

“Among the most important works now in progress of rapid construction, is the Oahu Railway to Pearl Harbor, which is already approaching completion, so far as grading is concerned.”

“Eleven miles of this line will have the grading completed in two weeks; and of this length ten miles are already finished. The material for the bridges is already on the ground, and the work of driving the piles has been begun at the larger estuaries of Kalihi and Moanalua.”

“A few of the bridges on this line will be of considerable length; but, with the present energy being displayed only a short time will elapse before the gaps in the line will all disappear.”

“Many of the smaller bridges and culverts have been already built. There will be altogether twenty bridges between Honolulu and Ewa, of various lengths—from 16 to 300 feet, with an aggregate length of 1250 feet.”

“Plans have been approved by which the main depot will be placed 180 feet from King street in what is now a fish-pond dividing Oahu prison from the royal stables.”

“A large portion, if not all of this extensive fish-pond will be filled in without delay, and this substantial and eligible building ground, artificially firmed, will become of great value by close proximity to the main depot buildings.”

“The depot itself will be of imposing size and made as ornamental in appearance as convenience and traffic requirements will allow. The grading of the whole division of this line, twelve miles, will be completed within the next month; and the laying of the rails will commence immediately upon their arrival by the bank Deutschland now nearly due from Germany.”

“The progress of this important work has been so rapid during the month of July that we give it first place among works in progress. (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, July 27, 1889)

The inauguration of the OR&L rail service was November 16, 1889. (LOC)Eventually, the railroad ran west out of Honolulu to Waianae, around Kaena Point and on to Kahuku, and is significant in the development of the sugar industry on the island of Oahu.

As a result of the development of this rail line the lands of western and northern Oahu were able to be opened for the cultivation of sugar, with plantations started at Ewa, Waipahu, Waianae, Waialua, Kahuku and other areas. Besides freight, the OR&L also provided plantation workers with easy access to Honolulu. (NPS)

In 1924-1925, a new Depot was constructed to replace an earlier 1889 wooden terminal building, and was the main Honolulu rail terminal for OR&L’s passenger operations.

The building was designed by local architect Guy N. Rothwell. The contract to erect the terminal was officially given to the Hawaiian Contracting Company (a company that was owned by the Dillingham family), though much of the work was performed by OR&L’s in-house construction crews.

Upon completion, the building had dual functions, with the 2nd floor providing offices for the company’s daily railroad operations, and the 1st floor accommodating passengers. The 1st floor layout included a porte-cochere, a ticket office and lobby with a restaurant and bar, as well as a news stand.

The offices upstairs were occupied by OR&L’s president, general manager, superintendent and treasurer, as well as the station’s dispatcher.

Both floors also included spacious restrooms for travelers and employees. As soon as the building was completed, an extension was constructed on the north side, to accommodate the company’s growing freight department.

The railroad prospered until the 1930s when the advent of improved roadways led to its decline. The railway continued in operation through World War II, but in 1947 all operations outside of Honolulu were abandoned. (NPS)

The company continued to use Depot building as a terminal well after rail passenger operations ceased at the end of 1947. The property was acquired by the State of Hawaii in 1961. After OR&L moved off the premises eighteen months later the building was used as office space.

A 1975 renovation completely reconfigured the interior of the building for office use, and an elevator and expanded stairwell were added at an unknown date. Various state organizations have occupied the offices, with the current users being the Division of Accounting and General Services, Department of Human Services in the terminal building. (HABS)

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First day of operation Nov 16, 1889.
First day of operation Nov 16, 1889.
OR&L Railroad Depot 1890
OR&L Railroad Depot 1890
OR&L Honolulu Depot-1890
OR&L Honolulu Depot-1890
OR&L Railway Depot
OR&L Railway Depot
OR&L Railroad Yard, November 1941
OR&L Railroad Yard, November 1941
OR&L Railroad Depot
OR&L Railroad Depot
OR&L Railroad Station 1890
OR&L Railroad Station 1890
OR&L Honolulu Terminal Roundhouse-Adv
OR&L Honolulu Terminal Roundhouse-Adv
OR&L Honolulu Depot-1914
OR&L Honolulu Depot-1914
OR&L Honolulu Depot_1890
OR&L Honolulu Depot_1890
OR&L Alakea Street Honolulu
OR&L Alakea Street Honolulu
OR&L Honolulu
OR&L Honolulu
OR&L Honolulu Depot-1901
OR&L Honolulu Depot-1901
OR&L Station 325 N. King St. Honolulu, late 1940s
OR&L Station 325 N. King St. Honolulu, late 1940s
OR&L-Iwilei-map
OR&L-Iwilei-map
OR&L-Oahu-Map
OR&L-Oahu-Map
OR&L-Map
OR&L-Map

Filed Under: Economy, General, Buildings, Prominent People Tagged With: Oahu, Oahu Railway and Land Company, Benjamin Franklin Dillingham, OR&L, Hawaii

May 16, 2017 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Timeline Tuesday … 1980s

Today’s ‘Timeline Tuesday’ takes us through the 1980s – bombing halted at Kaho‘olawe, Alexander Young Building demolished, enactment of State Water Code and over 1,000 ancient human remains discovered on land being developed by the Ritz-Carlton on Maui. We look at what was happening in Hawai‘i during this time period and what else was happening around the rest of the world.

A Comparative Timeline illustrates the events with images and short phrases. This helps us to get a better context on what was happening in Hawai‘i versus the rest of the world. I prepared these a few years ago for a planning project. (Ultimately, they never got used for the project, but I thought they might be on interest to others.)

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Timeline-1980s

Filed Under: Economy, General, Buildings, Place Names Tagged With: Honokahua, Commission on Water Resource Management, Timeline Tuesday, Timeline, Population, Great Aloha Run, Hawaii, Kilauea, Kahoolawe, Ron Rewald

May 11, 2017 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Hui Nalu

When Duke Kahanamoku, Kenneth Winter and William ‘Knute’ Cottrell decided to form a boat club, one of the names they initially came up with for it was the ‘Very Lazy Surfers.’ They later settled on ‘Hui Nalu’ (the club of the waves, or surf club.) (Davis)

The club was loosely organized in 1905 and officially formed in 1911. (Walker) (Others suggest it was formed in 1908.) Based at the Moana Hotel in Waikiki, swimming was the primary activity of the club in the early years; it expanded into surfing and canoe paddling.

They met daily under the hau tree near the Moana Hotel and used the hotel’s basement bathroom for a changing room. They decided that dues were one dollar per year. ‘It was a poor man’s club, but it was made up of dedicated surfers.’ (Kahanamoku; Davis) Membership was by election.

(Founded before (1908,) Outrigger Canoe Club had previously snubbed Duke Kahanamoku, but later asked him to join. He accepted the invitation in large part because his good friend, George ‘Dad’ Center.) (Davis)

(Outrigger, the world’s oldest surfing organization, was a social club, as well as an athletic club; membership was almost entirely foreign-born haole, or white, and the ranks contained an ever-growing number of nonathletic Honolulu businessmen.)

Composed primarily of surfers of full or partial Hawaiian blood. Hui Nalu was a longtime rival to the 1908-formed Outrigger Canoe Club, the world’s oldest surfing organization.

The Outrigger was a social club as well as an athletic club; membership was almost entirely foreign-born haole, or white, and the ranks contained an ever-growing number of nonathletic Honolulu businessmen. Membership to Hui Nalu, in contrast, was by election, and the club, while social in its own way, was for athletes only. (Walker)

In 1915, Hui Nalu surfers opened lucrative beach concession businesses in Waikīkī. Through these concessions, Hui Nalu surfers found regular and profitable work and became known as Waikīkī beachboys.

The beachboys were lifeguards, bodyguards, instructors, entertainers, and tour guides for visitors in Waikīkī. For a relatively high price, they took customers out into their Waikīkī surf to ride waves on canoes and surfboards.

One beachboy recalled, “[You] could make as much as five dollars a day. Oh, boy, was that big money. . . . We go out and catch three waves. But we fill the boat up with as much as six paying customers. Six dollars!”

By the late 1920s and early 1930s, the beachboy concession evolved into a bigger business, catering to higher-paying customers, as some beachboys became constant companions/tour guides for visiting families and made very good money.

Louis Kahanamoku explained, “Us boys would go down the ship. And we’d buy leis for them. . . . We come out of there, twenty, thirty, forty bucks by the time we got out”. (Walker)

By the end of 1946, the two main original Waikiki surf clubs had changed considerably. The native Hui Nalu had limited its activities mostly to outrigger canoe racing.

The haole-influenced Outrigger Canoe Club had become more of an exclusive prestige-type establishment, “with a wide range of social and athletic interests.”

So, in 1947, the Waikiki Surf Club was formed for the same reasons that the other two had originally been put together. “Its purpose,” wrote surfing historian Ben Finney, “was to promote surfing as well as other Hawaiian water sports.”

“It provided board lockers and clothes changing facilities near the beach, for anyone who could pay the small initiation fee and monthly dues.” (Ian Lind)

Today, members of Hui Nalu O Hawai‘i share the vision ‘To come together as a family who shares and cares’ and mission ‘To promote and provide educational and personal achievement opportunities which
strengthen family, community and individual relationships’.

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Hui_Nalu-shirt image
Hui_Nalu-shirt image
Hui Nalu-1915
Hui Nalu-1915
Hui Nalu-1920
Hui Nalu-1920
Kahanamoku_and_the_Hui_Nalu_Club
Kahanamoku_and_the_Hui_Nalu_Club
Kahanamoku Brothers
Kahanamoku Brothers
Hui Nalu-trophies
Hui Nalu-trophies
Hui Nalu Cofounder Dude Miller-1921
Hui Nalu Cofounder Dude Miller-1921

Filed Under: Economy, General, Prominent People Tagged With: Surf, Hui Nalu, Hawaii, Waikiki, Canoe, Surfing, Duke Kahanamoku

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