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June 23, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

The New “Big 5”

This story was inspired by a luncheon talk former OHA Trustee, Peter Apo gave to the Hawaiʻi Economic Association I attended. Although he hinted at the “Big 5” reference, he purposefully referenced it differently.

Since the early/mid-1800s, until relatively recently, five major companies emerged and dominated the state’s economic framework. Their common trait: they were founded in agriculture – sugar and pineapple.

They became known as the Big 5: Amfac – starting as Hackfeld & Company (1849;) Alexander & Baldwin (1870;) Theo H. Davies (1845;) Castle & Cooke (1851) and C. Brewer (1826.)

The luncheon talk suggested a new group of five is making a difference in Hawaiʻi’s economic scene.

The new “Big 5:” Kamehameha Schools, Queen Emma Foundation/Queens Health Systems, Department of Hawaiian Home Lands, Office of Hawaiian Affairs and Queen Liliʻuokalani Trust.

Their common trait: they are entities formed from or for native Hawaiians.

Kamehameha Schools (KS)

The largest, Kamehameha Schools (KS) was founded under the terms of the 1884 will of Bernice Pauahi Bishop and is supported by the land assets she provided to support the schools.

The Princess noted in her will that a trust is “to erect and maintain in the Hawaiian Islands two schools, each for boarding and day scholars, one for boys and one for girls, to be known as, and called the Kamehameha Schools.”

She further stated, “I desire my trustees to provide first and chiefly a good education in the common English branches, and also instruction in morals and in such useful knowledge as may tend to make good and industrious men and women”.

Through the legacy of its founder, KS is endowed with 365,000-acres of land statewide, ninety-eight percent of which is in agriculture and conservation.

KS has about 1,000 agricultural tenants who farm a variety of crops including coffee, papaya, pineapple, macadamia nuts, lettuce, asparagus, sweet potatoes, taro, watercress, avocado, bananas, tomatoes, cattle, aquaculture, and more.

Kamehameha Schools has net assets of nearly $7-billion and annual operating revenue of $1.34-billion.

Queen Emma Foundation/Queens Health Systems

The Queen’s Hospital, now called The Queen’s Medical Center, was founded in 1859 by Queen Emma and King Kamehameha IV.

Queen Emma Land Company was established to support the Queen’s Medical Center and its affiliates and accomplishes this by managing and enhancing income-generating potential of the lands left to the Queen’s Hospital by Queen Emma in 1885 and additional properties owned by the Queen’s Health Systems.

Today, the Queen’s Health Systems is Hawaiʻi’s oldest health care-related family of companies, ranking 13th in size among Hawaiʻi’s corporations and employing approximately 3,700 employees with net revenues of roughly $516-million.

Department of Hawaiian Home Lands (DHHL)

Written in 1920 and passed in 1921 by the US Congress, the “Hawaiian Homes Commission Act” established a structure and framework for the establishment of the Department of Hawaiian Home Lands (DHHL) to enable native Hawaiians to return to their lands in order to fully support self-sufficiency for native Hawaiians and the self-determination of native Hawaiians.

The principal purposes of the Act: establishing a permanent land base for the benefit and use of native Hawaiians; placing native Hawaiians on the lands; preventing alienation of the fee title to the lands set aside so that these lands will always be held in trust for continued use by native Hawaiians in perpetuity …

… providing adequate amounts of water and supporting infrastructure, so that homestead lands will always be usable and accessible; and providing financial support and technical assistance to native Hawaiian beneficiaries.

When considering development and use of its lands, DHHL asserts its land use authority over Hawaiian Home Lands through its General Plan and Island Plans and is exempt from State and County land classification requirements.

DHHL has net assets of approximately $717-million and annual operating revenue of over $12-million, plus on-going capital improvement/development expenditures.

Office of Hawaiian Affairs (OHA)

Amendments to the State Constitution in 1978 established the Office of Hawaiian Affairs (OHA.) Those amendments also established a board of trustees for the Office of Hawaiian Affairs.

The Office of Hawaiian Affairs is a semi-autonomous state agency created “to address the needs of the aboriginal class of people of Hawaii.”

Duties of the Board of Trustees include, “hold title to all the real and personal property now or hereafter set aside or conveyed to it which shall be held in trust … (as well as) manage and administer the proceeds from the sale or other disposition of the lands, natural resources, minerals and income derived from whatever sources for native Hawaiians and Hawaiians”.

Recently, it was announced that the State and OHA settled disagreements on past ceded land payments. The State is giving about 25 acres of land to OHA, worth $200 million.

This is added to its existing inventory of Wao Kele O Puna (25,800+ acres,) Waimea Valley (1,800-acres) and other smaller properties.

The Office of Hawaiian Affairs has net assets of over $650-million and operating revenue of over $40-million.

The Liliʻuokalani Trust (QLT)

In 1909, Queen Liliʻuokalani executed a Deed of Trust that established the legal and financial foundation of an institution dedicated to the welfare of orphaned and destitute children of Hawaiʻi.

Her Deed of Trust states that “all the property of the Trust Estate, both principal and income … shall be used by the Trustees for the benefit of orphan and other destitute children in the Hawaiian Islands, the preference given to Hawaiian children of pure or part-aboriginal blood.”

The trust owns approximately 6,200-acres of Hawaiʻi real estate, the vast majority of which is located on the Island of Hawaiʻi. 92% is agriculture/conservation land, with the remaining land zoned for residential, commercial and industrial use.

The trust owns approximately 16-acres of Waikīkī real estate and another 8-acres of commercial and residential real estate on other parts of Oʻahu. It has operating revenues of approximately $40-million.

In addition to these land holdings, the Legislature created the Kahoʻolawe Island Reserve Commission (KIRC) to manage the Kahoʻolawe Island Reserve while it is held in trust for a future Native Hawaiian sovereign entity.

While most of the prior “Big 5” have slowly faded away and no longer influence Hawaiʻi’s economy as in the past, these other five have a growing presence and influence in Hawaiʻi’s future.

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Filed Under: General, Economy Tagged With: Kahoolawe, OHA, Hawaii, Office of Hawaiian Affairs, Bernice Pauahi Bishop, QLT, Kamehameha Schools, KSBE, Queen Liliuokalani, DHHL, Department of Hawaiian Home Lands, Big 5, Queen Emma, Queen's Medical Center

June 14, 2019 by Peter T Young 3 Comments

Moana Hotel

Waikīkī was once a vast marshland whose boundaries encompassed more than 2,000-acres (as compared to its present 500-acres we call Waikīkī, today).

In the late-1890s, with additional steamship lines to Honolulu, the visitor arrivals to Oʻahu were increasing.  In 1896, Walter Chamberlain Peacock, a wealthy Waikīkī homeowner at the time, proposed to build Waikīkī’s first major resort to provide a solution to the area’s main drawback – the lack of suitable accommodations on the beach.

Often called the “First Lady of Waikīkī,” the Moana Hotel has been a Hawaiʻi icon since its opening opened on March 11, 1901.

The original wooden center structure of the Moana Hotel is the oldest existing hotel in Waikīkī. As such, it deserves recognition as a landmark in Hawaii’s tourist industry.

Designed in the old colonial style architecture of the period, it boasted 75 rooms and was the costliest, most elaborate and modern hotel building in the Hawaiian Islands at the time.

Each room on the three upper floors had a bathroom and a telephone – innovations for any hotel of the times.  The hotel also had its own ice plant and electric generators.  The first floor had a billiard parlor, saloon, main parlor, library, office, and reception area.

The Moana was one of the earliest “high-rise” buildings in Hawaii and was the costliest hotel in the islands. In spite of numerous renovations and changes, it has retained its tropical openness and is a welcome change from the more modern high-rises that surround it.

The original four story wood structure, designed by OG Traphagen, a well known Honolulu architect, features an elaborately designed lobby which extends to open lanais and is open to the Banyan Court and the sea.

By 1918, Hawaii had 8,000 visitors annually and by the 1920s Matson Navigation Company ships were bringing an increasing number of wealthy visitors.

This prompted a massive addition to the hotel.  In 1918, two floors were added along with concrete wings on each side, doubling the size of the hotel.

In the 1920s, the Waikīkī landscape underwent a dramatic re-development when the wetlands were drained with the construction of the Ala Wai Canal.  The reclaimed lands were subdivided into 5,000-square foot lots.

Matson Navigation Company bought the Moana in 1932; it paired with Matson’s other Waikīkī property, the Royal Hawaiian.

From 1935 until 1975, the Moana Hotel courtyard was home to the “Hawaii Calls” worldwide radio show, with its trademark sound of waves breaking in the distance.

The 1941 bombing of Pearl Harbor and Second World War interrupted the flow of visitors to Waikīkī and the region becomes a rest and recreation area for soldiers and sailors coming and going to the war in the Pacific.

After the war, tourism thrived in the late-1940s and 50s, with the introduction of regularly scheduled airline service from the West Coast.

1959 brought two significant actions that shaped the present day make-up of Hawai‘i, (1) Statehood and (2) jet-liner service between the mainland US and Honolulu (Pan American Airways Boeing 707.)  (That year, the Moana was sold to the Sheraton hotel chain.)

These two events helped guide and expand the fledgling visitor industry in the state into the number one industry that it is today.  Tourism exploded.  Steadily during the 1960s, 70s and 80s the millions of tourists added up, as did the new visitor accommodations in Waikīkī.

The Moana remains a constant reminder of the old Waikīkī.

In the center of the Moana’s courtyard stands a large Banyan tree. The Indian Banyan tree was planted in 1904 by Jared Smith, Director of the Department of Agriculture Experiment Station (about 7-feet at planting, it is now over 75-feet in height.)

In 1979 the historic tree was one of the first to be listed on Hawaii’s Rare and Exceptional Tree List. It has also been selected by the Board of Trustees of America the Beautiful Fund as the site for a Hawaii Millennium Landmark Tree designation, which selects one historic tree in each state for protection in the new millennium.

In 1905, the Moana Hotel was at the center of one of America’s legendary mysteries. Jane Stanford, co-founder of Stanford University and former wife of California Governor Leland Stanford, died in a Moana Hotel room of poisoning.

After several renovations and additions, the hotel now accommodates 794 guest rooms, two restaurants, spa and a bunch of other hotel amenities.

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Filed Under: Buildings, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Waikiki, Moana Hotel, Matson, Hawaii Calls, Royal Hawaiian Hotel

June 13, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Lāhainā Lighthouse

Hawai‘i’s whaling era began in 1819 when two New England ships became the first whaling ships to arrive in the Hawaiian Islands.

The whaling industry was the mainstay of the island economy for about 40 years.  For Hawaiian ports, the whaling fleet was the crux of the economy.  More than 100 ships stopped in Hawaiian ports in 1824.

Whalers needed food and the islands supplied this need from its fertile lands.  There was a demand for fresh fruit, cattle, white potatoes and sugar.  Hawaiians began growing a wider variety of crops to supply the ships.

In the record year of 1846, 736 whaling ships arrived in Hawai‘i.  Lāhainā was the port of choice for whale ships.

To aid the ships in reaching the port, in 1840, King Kamehameha III ordered a wooden tower built as an aid to navigation for the whaling ships.  It was equipped with whale-oil lamps kept burning at night.

It was built on a section of waterfront known as Keawaiki which means literally, “the small passage,” referring to a narrow break through a coral reef leading to protected anchorage.

This structure was the first lighted navigational aid in the Hawaiian Islands and is older than any lighthouse on the US Pacific Coast.

Later, a light was installed on top of the Union Hotel, which helped the mariners until 1856 when the government installed two powerful locomotive lamps by the Custom House.

Repairs and improvements continued to be made to the lighthouse with a new one being built and put in operation on November 8, 1866.

The new design was a store-house building with a light tower built on top, which contained the light room and a sleeping room for the keeper.  The new lamps burned kerosene oil, instead of whale oil.

In 1905 a new wooden, pyramidal, skeleton tower fifty-five feet tall which raised the focal plane of light to sixty feet above high water and had an enclosed workroom near the top, just below the lens platform.  The lens had red and white sectors.  As long as a mariner remained in the white sector, a safe approach to the port could be made.

In 1917, the wooden tower was replaced by the present thirty-nine foot, pyramidal, concrete tower.  A metal ladder leads up one side of the tower to the platform from which a fixed red light is shown.  The durability and ease of maintaining such concrete towers led to their wide deployment throughout the islands.

In 1996 the Lāhainā Restoration Foundation signed a 30-year lease agreement with the Coast Guard and assumed responsibility for maintenance of the site.

A metal plaque placed at the tower in 1984 by the Lāhainā Restoration Foundation, the caretakers for the lighthouse, gives a brief history of the towers built at the site, which was originally home to the “oldest Pacific lighthouse.”

The plaque reads:  “Oldest Pacific Lighthouse – On this site in 1840, King Kamehameha III ordered a nine-foot wooden tower built as an aid to navigation for the whaling ships anchored off Lāhainā.  It was equipped with whale-oil lamps kept burning at night by a Hawaiian caretaker who was paid $20 per year.”

“The tower was increased to 26 feet in 1866, rebuilt in 1950, and the present concrete structure was dedicated by the Coast Guard in 1916.  Thus, this light was the first in the Hawaiian Islands and pre-dates any lighthouse on the US Pacific Coast.”

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LahainaPierLighthouse-1905-1910
Lahaina-Harbor-Light-1866 lighthouse on the left and new 1905 skeleton tower (lighthouseguy-com)
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Filed Under: Economy, General, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks Tagged With: Lahaina, Hawaii, Whaling, Lahaina Lighthouse

June 5, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Grapevine

“In reporting to the Society on the subject of the grape-vine, it is gratifying to feel, that in this body, at least, its value, as well as its suitableness, to the soil and climate of these islands, is conceded … “

“… and that we have no longer to combat the hostility of some, who on former occasions, sought to discourage its culture, on the ground that we are ‘too far South,’ and that ‘grapes cannot be profitably grown in the tropics’ and so forth.”

“The cumulative experience of each succeeding season, goes incontrovertibly and conclusively to negative such obsolete theories, which cannot hold their ground against the every day evidence of our senses.” (John Montgomery, Report to Royal Hawaiian Agricultural Society, June 1, 1854)

Don Francisco de Paula Marin (known to the Hawaiian as ‘Manini’), a Spaniard who arrived in the Hawaiian Islands in the 1790s (at about the age of 20), is credited with introducing and/or cultivating in Hawai‘i: pineapple, coffee, avocado, mango and grapes.

He fermented the first wine in Hawai‘i and distilled brandy. He also made rum from sugarcane and brewed beer, all of which he sold at his boarding house-saloon near the waterfront.

His ‘New Vineyard’ grapevines were located Waikiki side of Nu‘uanu Stream and makai of Vineyard Street; when a road was cut through its mauka boundary, it became known as Vineyard Street.

“‘The Doubter’ … asserted that the grape could not be profitably grown in the tropics, and which I rebutted by an array of facts, proving that grapes are grown and good wine made in large quantities, in much lower latitudes than ours.”

“The suitableness of our climate for vine-culture, being conceded, the next most important consideration in connection with the subject, is the selection of the best soil and situation for the full development of the fruit.”

“It is generally known that volcanic countries are those in which the vine flourishes most and produces the best and most abundant crops. The best wines of Italy are yielded by grapes grown in the vicinity of Vesuvius, and large quantities are grown in the neighborhood of Aetna; both Tokay and Hermitage, are the produce of volcanic regions.”

“I entirely concur in the remark of Dr. Baldwin in his report on this subject, last year, that so far as our observation goes, we should expect that the grape would flourish in every part of the islands where there is sufficient depth of soil, not too dry, well exposed to the sun, and where they are protected from the trade-winds.”

“That the alluvial soil of the valleys, formed by deposits of the disintegrated and decomposed volcanic rocks which form the basis of our mountains, combined with decomposed vegetable matter, is admirably adapted for vine-culture, no one who has visited Lahaina, on Maui, or Waimea valley, on Kauai, can doubt …”

“… and I presume many others of our sheltered valleys would be equally productive. But our valleys form only a small fraction of the entire surface, and besides are so very valuable for the raising of other important crops, which cannot be well grown elsewhere …”

“… that it becomes the more important to investigate with care, the other portions of the surface, with a view to finding localities, less valuable for other purposes, where the grape can be profitably grown, and whether the rocky hill-sides which in other volcanic countries produce grapes in abundance, cannot here also be made available for the purpose.”

“A soil abounding in rocks and stones, is that in which the vine flourishes most, in the majority of wine-making regions ; and the rocky and precipitous hill-sides of Madeira, Teneriffe, the Azores and other similar countries where wine of high character is largely made for export, closely resemble our own barren mountain slopes.”

“In these countries, the earth found in the interstices of the rocks, is stirred up to a sufficient depth to receive the young plant, which finds usually sufficient moisture and shelter, to induce its rapid vegetation …”

“… and in the course of time its erratic shoots deposit and dispere themselves over the intervening rocks, where they find abundant heat and light to encourage the growth and the full development of their fruit, which in such a position matures with much rapidity, to great perfection.”

“That the same result will follow in similar localities on these islands has been already proved by several parties, one of whom, Mr. Cummins, of Kealakeakua, has at present a flourishing and highly promising little vine-yard on the stony surface of Kona, on Hawaii, a district which I apprehend, offers unmistakable evidence of its entire adaptation to vine-culture on a vastly extensive scale.”

“The elevation at which the vine will flourish and produce large and remunerative crops of fine fruit, is much higher than many imagine, and it is a great error to suppose, that it requires the high temperature of Lahaina to bring it to perfection.”

“Dr. Baldwin states in his report of last year, that he has seen ‘the finest grapes, produced too, in great abundance, in Kuapehu, on Hawaii, at an elevation of 1,500 feet,’ and adds that his impression is that the vine-growing regions are of great elevation, in which opinion he is fully sustained by facts.”

“On the same island, in Hāmākua, and at about the same elevation, another of our enterprising settlers, Robert Robinson, has produced enormous crops of excellent grapes this season; but it is unnecessary to multiply evidence on the subject.”

“Next in importance, after the selection of suitable soil, for a vineyard, is to secure a situation, either naturally sheltered from the trade-winds, or on which artificial shelter can be cheaply and easily made. “

“The mode of training the vine is also an important consideration. The object sought to be obtained by training, is to secure the largest crop of grapes of the best quality, and for the latter, an abundant exposure to the direct rays of the sun, both for heat and light, seems to be indispensable.”

“In extensive vine-yards, the more usual plan is, to train each plant to a single pole, the plants being set in rows 3 or 3 ½ feet apart, each way, and this method seems to answer the purpose admirably, and at a small cost.”

“Another method, perhaps best adapted for gardens, is to train the shoots on lateral trellices, about 6 feet high, but avoiding all top shade, which is always injurious to the quality and flavor of the fruit.”

“Humidity of climate, so far from being beneficial, is decidedly injurious to it, and in damp countries, grapes seldom come to perfection …”

“… whereas, in some countries, where it never rains, as in Guayaquil, in Bolivia, and other parts of the South American continent, excellent grapes and good wines are produced in abundance, a sample of which wine I have had the pleasure to taste at the hospitable board of HBM’s Consul-General in this city.”

“In discussing the important subject of vine-culture, I have hitherto gone on the assumption that it is desirable to be carried on, on an extensive scale …”

“… but if our present system is to be perpetuated, and that we are to be prohibited from using the fruit for any other purposes than eating only, it is idle to think of converting our now barren wastes into vine-yards, which could serve no useful purpose, or compensate for the cost of their formation.”

“The application of a crop, for the encouragement of the culture of which, this Society awards annual premiums, I take to be within the scope of a report, and as such I would take leave to say that I trust and hope the time has gone by when the manufacture of wine for export will be opposed by any important sections of this intelligent community.” (John Montgomery, Report to Royal Hawaiian Agricultural Society, June 1, 1854)

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Filed Under: Economy, General Tagged With: Don Francisco de Paula Marin, Grapes, Vineyard, Hawaii

June 2, 2019 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Tiki (or Tacky)

Remember the pre- and post-war (WW II) proliferation of “Tiki” bars and restaurants?

OK, I wasn’t even born then, but as the phenomenon grew into the 1950s and 60s (by then, I was around,) I do recall the tacky tourist joints in Waikīkī and elsewhere.

Thing is, though, those rum-based watering holes didn’t start here; they were the brainchild of a couple entrepreneurs on the continent, who eventually brought their establishments to our shores.

Starting in 1934, Ernest Raymond Beaumont Gantt (who?) – aka Donn Beach – opened the first Polynesian motif bar in Los Angeles, just off Hollywood Boulevard.

Named “Don the Beachcomber,” his bar seated about two dozen customers and he scattered a few tables in the remaining space. The place was decorated with faux South Pacific décor, along with old nets and parts of wrecked boats he scavenged from the oceanfront.

The Polynesian Pop revival was underway.

Not to be out-done, Victor Jules Bergeron (who?) – aka Trader Vic – in 1936 converted his Oakland “Hinky Dink’s” pub into a South Seas tropical retreat with tiki carvings, bamboo and outrigger canoes and rechristened it “Trader Vic’s.”

I still recall my 21st birthday and the celebration of my first legal consumption of alcohol at the downtown Denver Trader Vic’s, while I was a student at University of Denver – we had Mai Tais.

Polynesian Pop spread like wildfire and tiki-themed eateries opened across the country. While others have followed, none bettered the tiki and tacky of Don’s and Vic’s.

Along with the décor, rum-based concoctions were the signature drinks in these themed establishments. And that brings us to a discussion on who really invented the themey-est Polynesian Pop umbrella drink of all … the Mai Tai.

Some say Donn, some say Vic – others suggest a quiet barkeep at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel.

Here is what I have found and it’s based mostly on the self-professed statements from each of their websites.

While Don the Beachcomber started the whole tackiness, he apparently does not claim “invention” rights to the Mai Tai. Although the Mai Tai was served in Donn’s establishments, then and now, his signature rum-based theme drink was the Zombie.

The New York Times ran a brief obituary that painted him as a sort of Thomas Edison of the thatched-roof bar and the inventor of 84 bar drinks (Mai Tai, not included.)

The honor of invention of the Mai Tai seems to be directed at Trader Vic.

The story goes that the original Mai Tai was created by Victor J. Bergeron in 1944 by combining 2 ounces of 17-year-old J. Wray Nephew rum with juice from one fresh lime, 1/2 ounce each of Holland DeKuyper Orange Curacao and French Garnier Orgeat, and 1/4 ounce Rock Candy Syrup. The mixture is hand shaken and poured over shaved ice with a fresh mint garnish and 1/2 the lime rind.

The story seems to indicate he then asked some Tahitian friends to taste his new concoction and they reportedly exclaimed “maitaʻi” – the Tahitian expression for “good”; but today the drink is spelled as two words, sometimes hyphenated or capitalized.

Reportedly, in 1953, Vic brought his wildly acclaimed Mai Tai to the Hawaiian Islands when he was asked by the Matson Steamship Lines to design the cocktail menu for the bars at their Royal Hawaiian, Moana and Surfrider Hotels.

The Mai Tai became such a popular cocktail in the 1950s and 1960s that virtually every restaurant, particularly tiki-themed restaurants or bars, served them.

Nelia and I find ourselves returning to Waikīkī every now and then, rotating between the Royal Hawaiian and Halekūlani for Mai Tai sunset sips and pupu.

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Filed Under: General, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Halekulani, Royal Hawaiian Hotel, Trader Vic's, Don the Beachcomber, Mai Tai, Polynesian Pop

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Images of Old Hawaiʻi

People, places, and events in Hawaiʻi’s past come alive through text and media in “Images of Old Hawaiʻi.” These posts are informal historic summaries presented for personal, non-commercial, and educational purposes.

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Hoʻokuleana LLC

Hoʻokuleana LLC is a Planning and Consulting firm assisting property owners with Land Use Planning efforts, including Environmental Review, Entitlement Process, Permitting, Community Outreach, etc. We are uniquely positioned to assist you in a variety of needs.

Info@Hookuleana.com

Copyright © 2012-2024 Peter T Young, Hoʻokuleana LLC

 

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