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February 16, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Pāhonu

Honu neʻe pū ka ʻāina
The land moves like the turtle.
(Land passes slowly but inexorably from owner to heir.)
(Pukui)

From its earliest period of occupation, the Waimānalo Bay region was an extensive agricultural area, featuring taro farms that used the traditional Hawaiian loʻi (pondfield) cultivation system.

Taro was grown in the lowlands, irrigated with water from Waimānalo Stream, as well as on terraced sections that were watered by the small streams and springs flowing out of the Koʻolau Range.

These terraced sections extended for nearly 2-miles in a semicircle at the foot of the mountains around the broad base of the Waimānalo valley. By the 1850s, the area’s fertile soil provided not only taro but also breadfruit, mountain apple, kukui and coconut trees, sweet potatoes and sugar cane.  (NPS)

In addition to the agrarian-based economy, several fishing villages dotted the bay’s shoreline. Two of the best-known villages in the area were Kaupō and Kukui. Kaupō was on a small peninsula opposite Mānana Island (Rabbit Island) and just northwest of Makapuʻu Beach Park (where Sea Life Park is located.)

The village may have been depopulated during the early-1800s and probably was repopulated during the early-1850s when a disastrous smallpox epidemic struck Honolulu and Hawaiians settled temporarily in the Waimānalo Bay region to escape its ravages.

The small fishing village of Kukui was further northwest, along the bay in the Kaiona Beach vicinity near Pāhonu Pond (‘Turtle enclosure’) – a prehistoric walled enclosure where it is said that turtles were kept for the use of Hawaiian chieftains.  (NPS)

Before we go there, let’s look at some findings of Dr Marion Kelly where she speaks of three main technological advances resulting in food production intensification in pre-contact Hawai‘i: (a) walled fishponds, (b) terraced pondfields with their irrigation systems and (c) systematic dry-land field cultivation organized by vegetation zones.

The Hawaiian walled fishpond stands as a technological achievement unmatched elsewhere in island Oceania.  Hawaiians built rock-walled enclosures in near shore waters, to raise fish for their communities and families.  It is believed these were first built around the fifteenth-century.

The general term for a fishpond is loko (pond), or more specifically, loko iʻa (fishpond).  Loko iʻa were used for the fattening and storing of fish for food and also as a source for kapu (forbidden) fish.

Samuel Kamakau points out that “one can see that they were built as government projects by chiefs, for it was a very big task to build one, (and) commoners could not have done it (singly, or without co-ordination.)” Chiefs had the power to command a labor force large enough to transport the tons of rock required and to construct such great walls.

The fishponds just described refer to aquaculture to grow fish – they were found throughout the Islands; however, at Waimānalo, Oʻahu, the only remaining aquaculture of green sea turtle known to have been carried out by the early-Hawaiians involved a coastal pond named Pāhonu that was used to maintain turtles until they were ready to be eaten.  (NOAA)

The green sea turtle is the principal marine turtle species in the Hawaiian Islands.  Common names used in the Hawaiian Archipelago include honu, green turtle and green sea turtle.  They are herbivorous, feeding primarily on seagrasses and algae. This diet is thought to give them greenish-colored fat, from which they take their name. (NOAA)

In Hawaiʻi, as throughout Polynesia and other islands in the pacific, sea turtles have always been a traditional part of the local culture and have historically been revered as special and sacred beings.  (Luna)

“There was once a chief who was so fond of turtle meat that he ordered a sea wall be built to keep captured turtles from escaping.  Every turtle caught by a fisherman was put into this enclosure.  No one else was allowed to partake of turtle meat under penalty of death.  No one dared to eat turtle as long as the old chief lived.”  (Pukui; Maly)

Kikuchi in his “Hawaiian Aquaculture Systems,” notes that “An early visitor to Waikiki area remarked that the ruling chief of Oʻahu, Kahekili, ‘mentioned also some others where he had a quantity of turtle.’”

“… We walked back to Mr. Castle’s house, where we sat on a long bench outside, facing the sea.  There Aiona told me the story of Pa-honu, an enclosure for turtles that was once located back of Mrs. Wall’s present home.”  (Pukui; Maly)

Pāhonu, the offshore pond (500 feet long, 50 feet wide,) is just south of Kaiona Beach Park fronting the shoreline; a line of stones, submerged at high tide, but visible at low tide, notes its location.  (Pukui)

Kaiona Beach Park, a small four-acre park at the south end of Waimānalo Bay, is a popular camping site that has also been used for many years as a community boat anchorage.

In 1998, residents of Waimānalo built a boat ramp in the south end of the park, the only paved ramp in Waimānalo. They also placed a monument to Hawaiian fishers from their community near the ramp. Kaiona means “attractive sea.  (Clark)

The beachfront residence named Pāhonu inland of the pond was used from 1980 to 1988 as the base of operations for the popular television series, Magnum PI.  A surf site borders a small channel through the reef and is also known as Magnums. (Ulukau) The ‘Magnum’ house has been removed and other houses are it its place.
 
Next to Pāhonu is Kaʻakaupapa (shallows at the right.)  The old saying of this place was, “Papa ke kānaka, papa nā mea a pau”—“Multitudes of people, multitudes of gods, all in multitudes.”  (Aiona, Informant, Sept. 14, 1939; Cultural Surveys)

Nearby is the Shriners Club, a private clubhouse that opened on April 20, 1931. Popularly known as Shriners Beach, it is used for a wide variety of events, including wedding receptions, birthday parties and other social gatherings.  (Clark)

The green turtle is listed as endangered by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature. In 1978, the Hawaiian population of the green turtle was listed as threatened under the U.S. Endangered Species Act of 1973.  NOAA Fisheries and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS) have joint jurisdiction for green sea turtles.

State and Federal laws prohibit harassing, harming, killing, or keeping sea turtles in captivity without a permit allowing these activities for research or educational purposes. Divers should be aware that riding turtles is illegal and puts these animals under stress.

© 2025 Hoʻokuleana LLC

Filed Under: Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance, Hawaiian Traditions, Place Names Tagged With: Hawaii, Green Sea Turtle, Oahu, Waimanalo, Kahekili, Koolaupoko, Pahonu, Honu, Fishpond, Magnum PI

February 15, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

‘Him of the Low, Sweet Voice’

Failing health for some months past made it seem advisable that King Kalākaua should seek to regain it by a voyage to the more bracing climate of California, and inspired with this hope, he left his kingdom in November last (1890.) The voyage and change of circumstances at first seemed to benefit him.  (Privy Council)

“The United States steamer Charleston, with King Kalākaua, of Hawaii, on board, entered the harbor at 11 o’clock this morning.  Colonel McFarlane, chamberlain to King Kalākaua, stated that the king visited California for the benefit of his health and eyesight, which is somewhat impaired.”

“The king would probably remain in California five or six weeks, and during that period would visit the southern part of the state, but would not go east. The king is accompanied only by Colonel McFarlane and a few servants.”  (Los Angeles Herald, December 5, 1890)

“King Kalākaua left the Charleston in the Admiral’s barge late this afternoon, and a few minutes later arrived at the Clay-street wharf.”

“Great crowds of people surrounded the landing-place, and as the King left the barge he bowed right and left in acknowledgment of the cheers which were given by the spectators.”

“King Kalākaua immediately entered a carriage, drawn by four horses, and was driven to the Palace Hotel, where a reception was given him, which was attended by Governor Waterman, Mayor Pond, representatives of the commercial organizations, and a number of prominent citizens.”  (Sacramento Daily Union, December 5, 1890)

On December 18, the Daily Alta California announced that local favorites from San Francisco and Oakland would be competing in the baseball game, which would be held December 20 at the Haight Street grounds, where the bleachers could seat 14,000 fans.

“His Royal Highness King Kalākaua has promised to be present, which in itself should insure the presence of a large gathering, as the King has not shown himself to the multitude since his arrival on these shores.” (Daily Alta, December 18, 1890) That Saturday turned out to be a beautiful sunny day.

The Haight Street grounds’ park band escorted the two teams, the All-Californians and the Picked Nine, from the clubhouse around the grandstand and bleachers. The bench of the Picked Nine was draped with the American flag, while that of the All-Californians displayed the Hawaiian colors.

The king and his party arrived at 2:15 pm. The band played ‘Hawaii Ponoʻi’ and the game began.  Despite a triple by Picked Nine right fielder Ebright, the All-Californians won 12-8. The king did not stay for the whole game. He was a sick man suffering from kidney disease.   (San Jose Mercury News)

Then, the sad news …

“The announcement yesterday of the death of King Kalākaua fell like a clap of thunder from the skies.  Although we all knew that he was not a well man when he left here and that he had in his system a most insidious disease …”

“… yet the reports of the decided improvement in his health from the voyage over and the bracing climate of California deceived us as to his frail hold on life.”    (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, January 30, 1891)

“He passed away at exactly 2:35 pm of Tuesday, January 20, 1891, and there were present at his bedside, on the right of His Majesty, Rev. J. Sanders Reed, Col. Macfarlane, and Admiral Brown; on the left Col. Baker, Kalua, and Kahikina …”

“… and at the foot of the bed Consul McKinley, Mrs. Swan, and Fleet Surgeon Woods. Grouped around were Lieut Dyer, Hon. CR. Bishop, Mr Godfrey Rhodes, Judge Hart, Senator GE Whitney, Mrs. McKinley, Mrs. Price, Mrs Reed, and the Hon Claus Spreckels.”

His body was returned to the Island on the USS Charleston …

“The sad duty of taking care of the remains and bringing them to the kingdom devolved on Admiral Brown, who was especially delegated by President Harrison to take the tidings of the monarch’s sudden decease to his beloved subjects.”    (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, January 30, 1891)

“At 8:15 am yesterday the Diamond Head telephone announced the arrival of the USS Charleston, Admiral Brown, off Coco Head, with the American and Hawaiian flags at half mast. Half an hour later, the ship appeared off the harbor, dressed in mourning.”  (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, January 30, 1891)

“The reign of our departed King was memorable as an era of remarkable and increasing prosperity. In the seventeen years of his reign, now closed, this nation has made rapid strides in its material industries, education, and the arts of civilization.”

“But death comes alike to King and Commoner, and the seventh Sovereign of Hawaii is gone to join the roll of the illustrious dead. We humbly bow to the Will of God.”  (Privy Council)

“When the widowed Queen, Kapiʻolani, took leave of the American officers who had brought the body to its native land, she was much touched by the remark of Admiral Brown that he could never forget the musical beauty of the late King’s voice.”

“With the poetic fancy innate in all Hawaiians, she replied, ‘From henceforth, when you think of him, call him not Kalākaua, but say ‘him of the low, sweet voice.’”

“Kalākaua I was buried with great state on February 15th, 1891, another guest in that mausoleum which is so fast filling with the mortal remains of Hawaiian royalty. His sister Liliʻuokalani reigns in his stead, and follows worthily the best traditions of sovereignty, inspired doubtless by what she saw when in 1887 she was present at the Jubilee of our own gracious Queen.”  (Gowen)

© 2025 Hoʻokuleana LLC

Body of Kalakaua lying in state-PP-25-6-008-00001
Funeral of King Kalakaua, February 15, 1891. The photo was taken at the corner of King and Fort streets
Funeral procession of Kalakaua passing along King Street between Fort and Bethel
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King Kalakaua on USS Charleston from Honolulu to San Francisco seeking health-Nov 28 1890
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Mourners crowded at King Kalakaua's funeral at Mauna Ala
Public mourners crowded at King Kalakaua's funeral at Mauna Ala-PP-25-6-006
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Filed Under: Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance Tagged With: Kapiolani, Charleston, Kalakaua, King Kalakaua

February 14, 2025 by Peter T Young 3 Comments

Happy Valentine’s Day !!!

“We’re all a little weird. And life is a little weird. And when we find someone whose weirdness is compatible with ours, we join up with them and fall into mutually satisfying weirdness – and call it love – true love.” Robert Fulghum

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Ocean Arch Heart in Maui, Hawaii imgur
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Heart-shaped Tupai Island in French Polynesia
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Filed Under: General Tagged With: Valentine's Day

February 13, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Howling Owl

In 1938, the Navy Shore Development Board began searching for a more secure and adequate method for storing the near 4 million barrels of fuel kept to supply the Pacific Fleet.

The intention was to move the fuel from the exposed Doheny oil tanks in the back of the Navy Yard to a series of underground horizontal tanks.

The tanks were arranged in two parallel rows, with adjacent tanks spaced by 100-feet at least. The parallel arrangement allowed access by tunnels built between them with branches to each tank. Tops and bottoms of the tanks were dome-shaped for strength.

Ninety percent of the work was done underground, below at least 110-feet of earth. Outside night work was done under blackout conditions brought on by the war. A 20-watt bulb mounted inside a tin can and suspended three feet from the ground was a typical light source.

Charlie Boerner of Maui, the civil engineer inspector of the Navy’s supervisory group, described it best. “All we’re doing is getting inside a hole that doesn’t exist and digging until it does. O.K., so the miners keep widening the hole out from the shaft, making it v-shaped so the rock will roll down.”

The sequence of operation in driving the tunnels was drill, load (dynamite), blast, muck out, timber, and repeat. Progress was hampered by the presence of cinder pockets and irregular rock stratifications.

Tunnels through softer rock required pre-fabricated arch-shaped steel ribs with heavy timbers between the ribs to make the tunnel safe for work to proceed. Tunnels through harder rock were simply coated with Gunite to consolidate any loose rock. (HAER No. HI-123)

Muck was carried by conveyor to a quarry. Eventually, all of the five million tons excavated from Red Hill was used in surfacing highways, making concrete and as landfill to connect Kuahua Island to the Pearl Harbor shoreline.

After the tanks were hollowed, the walls were lined with ¼” steel plating, much like stained-glass pieces create a Tiffany lamp shade, Gammon described. (John Bennett)

Each tank has a 300,000-barrel capacity, and all 20 can hold 252 million gallons of fuel. At its peak, the project employed 3,900 workers to build 20 cylindrical fuel tanks that are each the size of the 20-story Ala Moana Building. Two-thirds of the workers were local. (William Cole)

The first tank was completed and immediately utilized on Sept. 26, 1942; the last, on Sept. 30, 1943. The reservation was transferred to the Navy’s control upon completion of the project, and was part of the strategic fuel oil for the Pacific Fleet. Access to the complex is via a system of tunnels totaling 7.13 miles. (John Bennett)

“Snaking throughout the honeycomb are a series of tunnels. A short cross tunnel connects each pair of tanks at their bottoms, making ten cross tunnels altogether. Similarly, another ten cross tunnels connect the tanks at their springline, the base of the upper dome.”

“The lengthy harbor tunnel extends for an additional two and one-third miles before finally rising to the surface at a secluded and bombproof underground pumphouse on Pearl Harbor Naval Base.” (HAER No. Hl-123) There is a link which runs to the Commander in Chief of the Pacific’s Headquarters building located at Makalapa. (John Bennett)

To aid in the transport of materials, 13,000 linear feet of train tracks were removed from Oahu’s cane fields and laid in the lower tunnel.  (WestOfSunset)

As the miners inched their way through their subterranean passageway, gangs of track-laying crews followed at their heels. As fast as the tunnel moved forward, rail lines were laid, and the excavated rock and earth was rolled away in miniature rail cars. (HAER No. HI-123)

The only continuously-operated railroad on Oahu runs the 3½  miles from Red Hill to a pump house at Pearl Harbor. It’s 450 feet underground, transporting men and equipment. At the pump house, only four men at a time are needed to monitor the elaborate system that took thousands to build.  (Boykin, Hawaii Pacific Architecture)

The two-car train, pulled by a miniature electric-powered narrow-gauge ‘locomotive’, was named ‘Howling Owl’ that propelled the train through the underground, hauled workers and equipment to various stops along the route – it could reach 15 miles per hour at full ‘steam’. (WestOfSunset)

The train passes under Makalapa Crater, Makalapa Elementary School, Salt Lake Boulevard, and Foster Village, at which point it is nearly 100-feet below the surface.

As it snakes through the tunnel, riders could easily believe that they are in the New York subway except that no one has spray painted ‘Chico loves Gloria’ on the walls.

Leaving Foster Village, the Owl travels beneath Aliamanu Military Reservation, the freeway, and Coast Guard housing. At the last location, residents have claimed that their homes vibrate when the train passes below. (Mass Transit Exists!)

The origin of the name ‘Howling Owl’ is long lost.  One theory suggests that the train’s mournful hoot is similar to the hoot of an owl.

Another theory claims that the name stems from the Underground Railroad used by escaping slaves in the southern United States.  Slaves planning to flee were told to await the signal – a howling owl. (WestOfSunset) The 15-foot-tall lighted tunnels later accommodated electric engines Honu and Lapaki.

© 2025 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: Military Tagged With: Hawaii, Pearl Harbor, Red Hill, Howling Owl, Fuel

February 12, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Keliʻiponi

Although Kalākaua had been elected and serving as King since 1874, upon returning from a trip around the world, in 1883, it was determined that Hawaiʻi’s King should also be properly crowned.

“ʻIolani Palace, the new building of that name, had been completed the previous year, and a large pavilion had been erected immediately in front of it for the celebration of the coronation. This was exclusively for the accommodation of the royal family …”

“… but there was adjacent thereto a sort of amphitheatre, capable of holding ten thousand persons, intended for the occupation of the people.” (Liliʻuokalani)

The design of the pavilion and amphitheater was entrusted to Messrs. Buchman and Rupprecht, two artists who had recently arrived in the Islands. The whole thing was considered the “finest specimen of this kind of work that has ever been produced in Honolulu.” (HABS)

“On Monday, 12th February, the imposing ceremony of the Coronation of their Majesties the King and Queen of the Hawaiian Islands took place at ʻIolani Palace.”

“Like a mechanical transformation scene to take place at an appointed minute, so did the sun burst forth as the clock struck twelve, and immediately after their Majesties had been crowned.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, February 17, 1883)

“Prince Kawānanakoa presented the Crowns; the President of the Legislative Assembly then took the King’s Crown and raised It up before the people and placed it in the hands of the Chancellor, saying: ‘I present this Crown to the rightful King of these Islands, approved by Acts of the Legislative Assembly in the Legislature of the Kingdom assembled of the years 1880 and 1882.’”

“The Chancellor then placed it in the King’s hands, saying this Crown of pure gold to adorn the high station wherein thou hast been placed. The King then raised up the Crown and placed it upon his head.”

“The Chancellor then took the second Crown and placed it in the King’s hands, who rose and placed it upon the Queen’s head who reverently bowed her head on receiving it, the King saying” ‘I place this Crown upon your head, to share the honors of my throne.’”

“His Majesty wore the white uniform of the Guards, with a white helmet, and plume of white, red, and blue. He wore the Grand Cordon, Star and Collar of the Order of Kamehameha I; the Star of the Imperial Order of the Chrysanthemum of Japan; the Star of the Order Michael and St. George of England; the Star of the Order of Conception of Portugal and the Star of the Order of Hawaiʻi.”

“The sword of State placed in the King’s hands as the ensign of Justice and Mercy, is an exact counterpart of that of England. It has a straight blade, of fine Damascus steel inlaid in gold with the Hawaiian coat of arms surmounted by the crown and bearing the motto of the realm.“

“A Coronation Pavilion (Keliʻiponi) for King Kalākaua had been constructed for the ceremonies; the pavilion was surrounded by a spacious Amphitheatre for the accommodation of the spectators of the ceremony. The outer walls were adorned with the armorial bearings of Spain, Portugal, Belgium, Great Britain, France, Peru, Hawaiʻi, Chile, Japan, China, Norway and Sweden.”

“In addition to the 4,000 people that were comfortably seated within the Amphitheatre and on the platform, there were crowds of spectators extending to the Palace gates on either side, principally Hawaiians.”

On the outside of the octagonal Pavilion, each of the eight uprights supporting the roof are ornamented with shields emblazoned on them, representing Russia, Netherlands, United States, Hawaii, Germany, Austria, Italy and Holland. (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, February 17, 1883)

“The dome of the building … was ornamented on each of the eight sides with colored shields displaying the coats-of-arms of one of each of the eight great nations of the world, America occupying the central position, Great Britain to right of centre, Germany to left of centre, the others on the panelled fronts prepared on the remaining five sides.”

“Flags of the different nations surmounted the shields the whole being surrounded with wreaths and circles of the native leaves.” (Hawaiian Gazette, February 14, 1883)

The Pavilion (approximately 25-feet in diameter) was about 50-feet from the stairway to the Palace and was connected to it by a platform; on the interior, each of the eight sides bore the name of one of the respective Kings of Hawaiʻi, from Kamehameha I to Kalākaua, painted in gold letters. (HABS)

“(O)n the veranda of the palace on the one side were seated the officers of the vessels of war in the port, and on the other persons of rank or position who had not been otherwise assigned to stations.” (Liliʻuokalani)

Following the coronation festivities, “The Pavilion in which His Majesty was crowned has been moved to the west side of the Palace, and now stands as a permanent ornament to the grounds.” (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, April 21, 1883)

Three years later, in November 1886, Kalākaua threw another large celebration in honor of his fiftieth birthday, and the Jubilee activities included the usual lūʻau, hula and a grand ball. The Royal Hawaiian Band played from the pavilion. (HABS)

© 2025 Hoʻokuleana LLC

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Filed Under: Buildings, Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance Tagged With: Oahu, Kalakaua, Iolani Palace, Bandstand, Coronation Pavilion

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