Peter T Young

December 6, 2015 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

‘It’s Different’

These weren’t the words expected by the questioner in my response to what I thought about my first trip into the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands (now the Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument.)

I think she was expecting words like: spectacular, pristine, resource rich, special, abundant, etc.

Yes, it’s all those descriptors, too; and for me, therefore, “different.”

I wasn’t trying to be cute, but, rather, acknowledge the responsibility we faced in protecting this place. (I have been to the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands several times, each time reinforced the feeling.)

My first trip – a 3 ½ plane ride there, 3 ½ hours on the ground and 3 ½ hours back – was to Tern Island at French Frigate Shoals (it looks like an aircraft carrier in the reef.)

French Frigate Shoals is the largest atoll in the chain, taking the form of an 18-mile long crescent. It is estimated to be 12.3 million years old.

Tern Island (approximately 30-acres) in the atoll is the site of a Fish & Wildlife Service field station, which occupies a former U.S. Coast Guard Long-Range Aids to Navigation (LORAN) station that closed in 1979.

A relatively deep (80 to 100 feet) coral reef at this atoll has been recently discovered to function as a spawning site for Ulua (the giant trevally); a rare discovery of spawning sites for top predators.

The lagoon is also unusual in that it contains two exposed volcanic pinnacles representing the last vestiges of the high island from which the atoll was derived, as well as nine low, sandy islets.

The sand islets are small, shift position, and disappear and reappear. These islets provide important habitat for the world’s largest breeding colony of the endangered Hawaiian monk seal.

On a tour around Tern Island we saw monk seals and turtles resting on the sandy shore, as well markings in the sand of a turtle who laid her eggs the night before.

And lots of birds … mostly terns —> Tern Island.

On that trip, we were unexpectedly greeted by Jean-Michel Cousteau; he was on the island during his filming of “Voyage to Kure.”

Here’s a link to the Google ‘Street View’ on Tern Island.

https://goo.gl/fE0dni

I also visited Midway. Look at a map of the Pacific and you understand the reasoning for the “Midway” reference (actually, it’s a little closer to Asia than it is to the North American continent.)

Kuaiheilani, suggested as a mythical place, is the traditional name for what we refer to as Midway Atoll. Described in the legend of Aukelenuiaiku, the origin of this name can be traced to an ancient homeland of the Hawaiian people, located somewhere in central Polynesia. (Kikiloi)

According to historical sources, this island was used by Native Hawaiians even in the late-1800s as a sailing point for seasonal trips to this area of the archipelago.

The Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, and in particular Midway Atoll, became a potential commodity in the mid-19th century. The United States took formal possession of Midway Atoll in August of 1867 by Captain William Reynolds of the USS Lackawanna.

Midway’s importance grew for commercial and military planners. The first transpacific cable and station were in operation by 1903. In the 1930s, Midway became a stopover for the Pan American Airways’ flying “clippers” (seaplanes) crossing the ocean on their five-day transpacific passage.

The United States was inspired to invest in the improvement of Midway in the mid-1930s with the rise of imperial Japan. In 1938 the Army Corps of Engineers dredged the lagoon during this period and, in 1938, Midway was declared second to Pearl Harbor in terms of naval base development in the Pacific.

The construction of the naval air facility at Midway began in 1940. At that time, French Frigate Shoals was also a US naval air facility. Midway also became an important submarine advance base.

Here’s a link to the Google ‘Street View’ on Midway Atoll.

https://goo.gl/NaAi28

Here’s a short video of some of the albatross on Midway.

https://youtu.be/cG7JOpL2tEA

Here’s a link to the Google ‘Street View’ on Laysan Island.

https://goo.gl/63WGFK

Here’s a link to the Google ‘Street View’ on Lisianski Island.

https://goo.gl/e8kYHW

Here’s a link to the Google ‘Street View’ on Pearl and Hermes Atoll.

https://goo.gl/9kuFWZ

While I was Chair at DLNR, we created the Refuge rules whose intent is “To establish a marine refuge in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands for the long-term conservation and protection of the unique coral reef ecosystems and the related marine resources and species, to ensure their conservation and natural character for present and future generations.“ Fishing is prohibited.

This started a process where several others followed with similar protective measures. The BLNR unanimously adopted the State’s Refuge rules, President Bush declared it a Marine National Monument and UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site.

Some ask why we imposed such stringent limitations on use in this area. For me, it ended up to be pretty simple; it is the responsibility we share to future generations, to allow them to see what it looks like at a place in the world where you don’t take something.

Check out more on the Monument (look at the Images and Videos, you’ll see this place really is different:) http://www.papahanaumokuakea.gov

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monkseal-ulua-NOAA

Ulua-NOAA

Clouds of reef fish and corals, French frigate shoals, NWHI

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Jean-Michel Cousteau – PTY

Heading out to French Frigate Shoals

Papahanaumokuakea-World_Heritage_Site

Papahanaumokuakea_World_Heritage_Site

December 5, 2015 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kanaʻina

Kekāuluohi (the niece and former wife of Kamehameha I) became one of the wives of Kamehameha II; but when Christianity was introduced in the Islands, Kamehameha II allowed her to marry Kanaʻina (descended from Līloa of Waipiʻo, Hawaiʻi and Piʻilani of Maui.)

Reportedly Kanaʻina was named after his uncle Kanaʻina I, a name that means “The conquering;” it is said Kanaʻina I was one of the two chiefs along with Palea who may have struck to final blow, killing Captain Cook in 1779.

High Chief Charles Kanaʻina and High Chiefess Kekāuluohi “are among the most interesting of the aristocracy; and, of their claims to respect and attention, we needed no other proof, than that afforded on the present occasion.” (Stewart, 1831)

Kanaʻina was a noble of Hawaiʻi and a man of wisdom; Kekāuluohi, was a beautiful woman of large stature. After the death of Kamehameha the Great she took the name ʻAuhea, meaning “where has he gone.” Her Christian name was Miriam (during the reign of Kamehameha III she was Kuhina Nui (Premier) and known as Kaʻahumanu III.) (Galuteria)

“They both write with great readiness; and (Kanaʻina) with a freedom and command of hand that would class him among good penman anywhere.”

“The entrance (to their home) is by a large folding door—the lower pannels painted green, and the upper part of glass—into a spacious room floored with mats, and furnished, as that we had left, in its whole length on one side with an inviting lounge, and, on the opposite, with a side table and mirror.”

“A semicircle of chairs, with a centre table, occupied the middle; and at each of the further corners, stood a handsome cabinet, surmounted by a bookcase top, with glass doors and silk hangings.”

“At the one, the lady of the house was seated, and at the other her husband ; both engaged in writing, with books, slates, and papers around them.” (Stewart, 1831)

in 1834, they built an elegant two story house of rock coral, near the mission houses, at Honolulu, “received and entertained, one evening, at a well-furnished table, thirty-three missionaries, including men and women, presiding herself with the dignity of a Christian matron.” (Bingham)

They had two sons, Davida (who died quite young) and William. His mother was ambitious for William and she said others are high in rank but this is highest of all and he shall be named “Lunalilo”, that is so far up on high as to be lost out of sight – “luna” meaning above and “lilo” lost. (HHS)

Lunalilo’s parents wanted him to have the best possible education. They enrolled him in the Chiefs’ Children’s School which was being established for the children of Hawaiʻi’s aliʻi.

It was a boarding school where the children lived away from their homes. Mr. and Mrs. Amos Starr Cooke were the teachers. When the school opened its doors in 1839 Lunalilo stepped in as one of its first pupils. He was just four years old. (Galuteria)

He received “a liberal English education, and as he possessed naturally a quick mind, he became one of the best scholars in the school. For English classical literature he had great fondness, and “his familiarity with the English poets was remarkable.”

Lunalilo later served as a writer for Robert C Wyllie, the foreign minister. However, Lunalilo was never offered any employment or responsibility by the ruling king. He was never given any public office by any king. He was never asked to travel abroad officially. He was kept on a small allowance of money. His cousin, King Kamehameha V, ignored him.

Lunalilo had many fine qualities. In spite of his many fine qualities he was overcome by one weakness. He became addicted to liquor.

In 1858 Kanaʻina, out of love and concern for his son, petitioned the court to appoint guardians for him. Lunalilo agreed to this idea even though he was twenty-three years old. So the court appointed his father and two others, Dr. Richard Armstrong and James W Austin, as guardians.

The prince remained under guardianship for fourteen years. His last guardians were Kanaʻina and Charles Reed Bishop, husband of Princess Bernice Pauahi. On December 31, 1872, after the death of Kamehameha V, the Probate Court ended the guardianship when it appeared that Lunalilo would be the next king. (Galuteria)

Prince David Kalākaua and others not in the Kamehameha lineage chose to run against Prince Lunalilo. At noon on January 8, 1873, the Legislature met, as required by law, in the Courthouse to cast their official ballots of election of the next King. Lunalilo received all thirty-seven votes.

On Tuesday February 3, 1874, at 8:50 pm King Lunalilo died at thirty-nine years of age. Those present around his bed included His Highness Charles Kanaʻina, the king’s father; the Honorable Mrs Bernice Pauahi Bishop; Her Excellency Ruth Keʻelikolani; the Honorable Mrs Fanny Naʻea; Robert Stirling, minister of finance and two attending physicians, Dr George P Trousseau and Dr Richard Oliver.

Before his death Lunalilo did not name a successor to the throne. As the people had selected him, so he insisted that the choice of the next monarch should rest in the hands of the people. (Galuteria)

The featured image shows Kaʻahumanu; several claim the young attendant and kahili bearer is Kanaʻina, father of the future King of the Islands.

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Reportedly-Kanaʻina was kāhili bearer and attendant to Ka’ahumanu

Portrait_of_Kanaina,_a_chief_of_the_Sandwich_Islands-Webber-1778

Portrait of Kanaina, a chief of the Sandwich Islands – one of the two chiefs along with Palea-he may have struck to final blow to Cook-1779

Kanaina and Lunalilo

Kanaina_(PP-97-12-002)

Pa’u riders in front of the Kanaina Bldg., Iolani Palace Grounds-PP-34-3-002

Kanaina-Archives_Building

December 4, 2015 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Hālawa

“Early the next morning, with a pleasant breeze from the NE, we stood over towards the east point of Mororoi (Molokai.) … we sailed to the westward … In this the land rises rather abruptly from the sea, towards the lofty mountains in the center of the east part of Morotoi …”

“… and though the acclivity was great, yet the face of the country, diversified by eminences and vallies, bore a verdant and fertile appearance. It seemed to be well inhabited, in a high state of cultivation, and presented not only a rich but a romantic prospect.” (Captain George Vancouver, March 19, 1793)

“… a beautiful deep valley….watered by a large and delightful stream of fresh water which falls from the mountains…in two grand and beautiful cataracts one of which rushes over a perpendicular decent of more than five hundred feet into a deep…and crystal lake”.

“The stream which issues from the lake … is so situated as to be easily drawn off by sluices into the taro plots…. the valley is principally laid out in these small rectangular plots …” (Hitchcock, 1833; NPS)

In 1877, a native Hawaiian described Hālawa “as a very fertile valley, with wild fruits, mountain shrimps, and much water in the streams…. There were nine hundred and thirteen taro patches and with the hundred and nine others that I hadn’t counted, they totaled a thousand and thirty-two patches. Most of the land is covered in taro”. (NPS)

“The glimpses of Molokai which one obtains from a steamer’s deck while passing to Honolulu from San Francisco or in passing to and from Maui (along its south shore,) give the impression that the island is bleak, mountainous and desolate.”

“Skirting its (north) shores on the Hālawa, Wailua and Pelekunu sides on Wilder’s fine steamer Likelike, gives a far different picture. For miles sheer precipices rise from the sea and tower 1,500 feet into the air.”

“Now and then, and sometimes in groups, beautiful waterfalls are seen on the face of the cliff, now falling in clear view for a couple of hundred feet, now hidden under denses masses of foliage, only to reappear further down, another silvery link In the watery thread which ends In a splash and scintillating mist in the breakers below.” (Hawaiian Gazette, March 31, 1905)

The windward valleys developed into areas of intensive irrigated taro cultivation and seasonal migrations took place to stock up on fish and precious salt for the rest of the year. Kalaupapa was well known for its bountiful ʻuala (sweet potato) crops and its fine-grained, white salt which was preferred over that from the salt ponds of Kawela and Kaunakakai. (Strazar)

John FG Stokes, who was Curator of Polynesian Ethnology at Bishop Museum, was sent to Molokai in 1909 to survey the remains of the ancient Hawaiian temples (heiau) found there. Stokes recorded thirteen medium-sized heiau distributed along the lower slopes and two large luakini heiau.

Molokai used to be referred to as ʻAina Momona (the bountiful land,) reflecting the great productivity of the island and its surrounding ocean.

It is about 38-miles long and 10-miles wide, an area of 260-square miles, making it the 5th largest of the main Hawaiian Islands (and the 27th largest island in the US.)

The island was formed by two volcanoes, East and West, emerging about 1.5-2-million years ago. The cliffs on the north-eastern part of the island are the result of subsidence and the “Wailua Slump” (a giant submarine landslide – about 25-miles long that tumbled about 120-miles offshore – about 1.4-million years ago.)

Hālawa Valley is the easternmost valley at the edge of Molokai’s north shore; four other major valleys span the coastline, from Hālawa westward toward Kalaupapa: from east to west they are Papalaua, Wailau, Pelekunu and Waikolu.

Archeological surveys indicate that by the 1300s, Hālawa Valley’s population had expanded inland, and small irrigation systems were developed along the streams.

By the 1600s, an extensive taro irrigation system dominated the valley’s settlement pattern. At that time, the lower valley was entirely covered in large rectangular fields watered by long irrigation ditches (taro loʻi made up about 55-acres of land.)

Hitchcock who established the first permanent Mission Station at Kaluaʻaha in 1832, gave a census figure of 6,000 for the island. (Strazar)

These early counts were generally taken in the field by both native school teachers and missionaries. During this period, the Reverends Hitchcock and Smith preached once a week at seven different stations from Kamaloʻo to Hālawa, and in 1833 they estimated the population of the entire island to be about 3,300. (Strazar)

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Halawa Valley shoreline and cove

Halawa Stream at the lower end of the valley

Halawa_Molokai

Halawa-Bay

Poi_making_out_of_doors._A_scene_at_Halawa,_Molokai,_in_1888,_Memoirs_Bishop_Museum,_Vol._II,_Fig._100

Hawaiian woman seated in front of a grass house, Halawa, Molokai-Baker-PP-32-3-010

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Halawa Valley

Halawa waterfalls

Falls at the end of Halawa Valley

Halawa Park

Halawa selfie

Halawa Selfie

Halawa-Settlement-Map-Kirch

December 2, 2015 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Niitaka Yama Nobore

The Qing dynasty (Manchu dynasty,) ruling from 1644 to 1912, was the last imperial dynasty of China. The First Sino-Japanese War (August 1, 1894 – April 17, 1895) was fought between the Qing Empire of China and the Empire of Japan.

The primary interest was control of Korea. As part of that war, in March 1895, Japan forces attacked the Chinese-controlled Taiwan. Japan won that battle and the war.

The Treaty of Shimonoseki ended the First Sino-Japanese War and through it China gave full control of Korea and Taiwan to Japan. Taiwan (also referred to as Formosa) was under Japanese rule from 1895 and 1945.

“In the heart of the savage territory of the island of Formosa rises Mt Morrison, the highest mountain in the Orient, east of the Himalayas. …”

“The mountain was so named to commemorate the memory of the Reverend Robert Morrison, the first protestant missionary to China … in the year 1842.” (Arnold, 1908)

“When the Japanese took possession of Formosa in the year 1895 she re-christened the mountain Niitaka-yama, which means new high mountain; Fuji-yama, sacred to the heart of every Japanese, being thus relegated to the position of old high mountain.” (Arnold, 1908)

The renaming of the mountain “Nii-taka-yama, that is, the ‘New High Mountain,’ (is an) allusion to the fact that this (was) the last to be added to the empire, being also the highest, – higher than Fuji itself.” (Handbook for Travellers in Japan, 1903)

Then, on December 2, 1941 (Tokyo Time,) a coded message, ‘Niitakayama Nobore’ (“Climb Mount Niitaka”) was sent to all Imperial Japanese Navy units.

Approaching the International Date Line from the west at that time were six Japanese aircraft carriers, Akagi, Kaga, Soryu, Hiryu, Shokaku and Zuikaku, along with over ten escorts and supply ships.

Receiving this signal Vice Admiral Nagumo Chuichi, went to his cabin onboard his flagship, the aircraft carrier Akagi, and opened a set of Top Secret documents, which told him, and those that opened the same order throughout the fleet, that on December 8 (the 7th on the Pearl Harbor side of the International Date Line) Japan would be going to war. (Johnson)

Previously, the Japanese force assembled 2 battleships, 6 carriers, 3 cruisers, approximately 20 destroyers and 5 submarines, including midgets which were carried by mother submarines.

The force departed at 6 am, November 26, Japan time, and set an indirect northern course for the next rendezvous, 200 miles north of Oahu. On December 6, when the force was still 800 miles north of O‘ahu; it received the long awaited code message.

When the Japanese attacked, 86 vessels, including 8 battleships, 7 cruisers, 28 destroyers and 5 submarines, plus the usual complement of small craft, were based in the harbor (there were no aircraft carriers moored at Pearl Harbor at the time.) (Morris)

In the Islands, the message: “Air Raid, Pearl Harbor. This is no drill” came at 0755 on December 7, as Japanese planes swept overhead in an attempt to cripple the Pacific Fleet.

The first wave of 183-planes (43-fighters, 49-high-level bombers, 51-dive bombers and 40-torpedo planes) struck its targets at 7:55 am. The second wave of 167-Japanese planes (35-fighters, 54-horizontal bombers and 78-dive bombers) struck Oʻahu beginning at 8:40 am.

By 9:45 am, the Japanese attack on Oʻahu was over.

(Today, Niitakayama is known as Mount Yushan (Jade Mountain) and is part of Yushan National Park, the largest national park in Taiwan.)

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Niitaka-Mount_Yu_Shan_-_Taiwan

Mt Jade Park Monument-Yushan

A crowd of hikers gathers on Jade Mountain Main Peak to view the sunrise.

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Mt Jade Park trail

Yushan-map

Yushan-National-Park-Hiking-Map

December 1, 2015 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Ecumenical Memorial

It ‘became conspicuous by its absence.’

“It’s like a beacon of peace. When it’s on everything is tranquil … It’s a glimmer of hope for a better tomorrow.”

“The word ‘cross’ means something different to different people. To an engineer it may mean an intersection on a blueprint for a superhighway. To a child it may denote the property of addition in a mathematics problem.”

“But to the residents of Hālawa Heights living and growing in a world seemingly entombed in a constant struggle for survival, the cross holds a very special meaning.”

“Each night one such cross shines like the stars in the heavens above Hālawa Heights, and that means a lot to residents from the surrounding Camp HM Smith community. Not even a cloudy sky can shroud its luminous neon tubes from the view of passing motorists, residents and the curious.”

“The reason for the construction and practice of lighting the cross, according to Clark, started with the annual ecumenical Easter sunrise service held April 1962.”

“’As far as I know this was the first military Easter sunrise service conducted on the island. The cross remained lighted all night long through the two-Week Easter season following the sunrise service. It was the responsibility of the duty Maintenance man here to ensure that, the cross’ lights were turned on each evening,’ Clark stressed.” (Hawaii Marine, April 13, 1979)

“But sometimes they forgot, and that’s when, according to Clark. The phone at maintenance started ringing. ‘People wanted to know,’ said Clark, ‘what happened to the cross? Why isn’t it on? Even ships at sea sailing in to Pearl Harbor have called when the cross wasn’t lighted. It’s like a beacon of peace. When it’s on everything is tranquil,’ says Clark.”

“The cross, soaring 65 feet in the air, evoked such a favorable response from the local Community as Clark has pointed out, that It was decided to light the cross each evening. Since its construction the cross has become as much a landmark as a symbol of religious significance.”

“In the fall of 1969 the lights began to flicker on the cross.”

“Lieutenant General HW Buse, then commanding general, Fleet Marine Force, Pacific, (FMFPac) directed that the cross only be lighted during the Christmas and Easter seasons. His actions were a result of objections raised by an individual that the cross was in violation of the constitutional principle which calls for separation of church and state.”

“Within a few months that claim ignited a fuse among local residents and they took their case to U.S. Senator Hiram L. Fong.”

“In one letter to the senator, a citizen stated, ‘Indeed it has become something of a compensation for we residents living in the vicinity of Camp H.M. Smith, who have become the victims of an industrial complex, dynamiting and desecrating the beautiful mountains, foliage and trees, of Hawaii.’ Meanwhile the lighted cross at Camp H.M. Smith became conspicuous by its absence.”

“’Since the beginning of the year we permanent, tax-paying residents have been deprived of our right to enjoy the landmark around which we’ve built our homes and our hopes.’”

“Obviously, the pull-of-the-plug on a landmark that served faithfully as a source of hope for many, angered the local community. But, with the exception of Christmas and Easter, the cross remained dark for the next two years.”

“It was March 26, 1972 when the cross was relighted as an expression of concern for all American prisoners-of-war, and those missing-in-action in Southeast Asia by Lieutenant General William K. Jones, then commanding general, FMFPac.”

However, “On orders from the Commandant of the Marine Corps, the need to conserve energy unfortunately included discontinuing the use of outdoor lighting which was not required at Camp Smith for their combat mission, security or safety purposes. So the cross again fell prey to another crisis.”

“As in the past when the cross was turned off, the FMFPac commander received letters and queries from local residents to find out why the action was taken.”

“Marine Corps policy at that time was to illuminate the cross during Christmas and Easter, at least until the energy crunch subsided. Eventually the energy problem did ease, and the cross was relighted each night.”

“It’s a symbol toward which they have placed their faith. To the people of Hālawa Heights the Camp Smith cross is more than just a light atop Bordelon Field. It’s a glimmer of hope for a better tomorrow.” (Hawaii Marine, April 13, 1979)

“The American Civil Liberties Union and 15 individuals of various religious faiths have filed suit in Federal District Court seeking to force the Marine Corps to remove a huge cross from the military base here.” (NY Times, September 29, 1988)

“General Kelley referred to the towering cross as an ‘ecumenical memorial’’ to the marines and sailors who had died in the Vietnam War, adding that he intended the huge cross to remain in place as a ‘’nonsectarian symbol of our national resolve to obtain a full accounting of American servicemen still missing or unaccounted for in Southeast Asia.’” (NY Times, September 29, 1988)

“On Aug. 30 (1988,) Judge Thomas F Hogan of the US District Court, District of Columbia, directed that the cross be removed, although allowing a 60-day delay to appeal.”

“The decision was not appealed; however, the Marine Corps was granted a delay in execution of the judgement to permit the concurrent removal of the cross and dedication of the replacement marker and flagpole.” (Hawaii Marine, December 1, 1988)

The Camp Smith Cross was taken down on December 1, 1988 and replaced by a pedestal and a plaque. An 80-foot flagpole flies a 20-by-38-foot American flag.

Click HERE for a link to a prior summary on Camp Smith.

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