YMCA

September 22, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Mauka-Ewa Corner of Richards and Hotel Streets

I wasn’t sure what to call this post. It includes a little bit of history and is essentially a discussion of the evolution of the site and building that now houses the Hawai‘i State Art Museum.

The uses evolved from scattered homes to the Hawaiian Hotel to the Armed Forces YMCA to Hemmeter Corporation headquarters to No. 1 Capitol District Building, and now to the Hawai‘i State Art Museum and State offices.

Here’s a little bit of history.

Back in the mid-1800s, the growth of steamship travel between Hawai‘i and the West Coast of the United States, Australia and New Zealand caused a large increase in the number of visitors to the islands.

The arrival and departure of Samuel Clemens (Mark Twain,) the Duke of Edinburgh and others included envoys, politicians, merchants and opportunists, created the need of good hotel accommodations to lodge similar visitors.

The Hawaiian Hotel was proposed in 1865, but not laid down until 1871. The Hotel was located on the Mauka-Ewa corner of Hotel Street and Richards Street and was formally opened by a ball on February 29, 1872.

The Hawaiian Hotel was later called the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, because King Kamehameha V felt adding “Royal” to the name would give it regal feel.

Therefore, first “Royal Hawaiian Hotel” was not in Waikīkī; rather, it was in downtown Honolulu (the later one, in Waikīkī, opened over fifty years later, in 1928.)

In 1879, the Royal Hawaiian Hotel was surrounded by dwellings, including several thatched-roof hale, but the hotel expanded over the next twenty years and replaced most of the residences.

Reportedly, Kalākaua kept a suite there; the Paradise of the Pacific noted it was “one of the coolest buildings in the city.” (I’m not sure that this is the same “cool” that I refer to as “waaay cool.”)

By 1900, the last dwellings and a doctor’s office were located on the corner of Beretania and Richards Streets. These were all gone by 1914.

In November 1917, the Royal Hawaiian Hotel was purchased by a group of local businessmen and became the official headquarters of the Armed Services YMCA in Hawai‘i.

In 1926, the hotel was demolished and the present building was constructed. The Army and Navy YMCA building was erected on the site of the former Royal Hawaiian Hotel in 1927.

Through the middle of the century, the downtown “Y” was a popular destination for service men from all branches of the military.

By the mid-1970s, an increasing number of junior enlisted personnel were married with children.

The Armed Services YMCA responded to the changing needs of the military by opening family centers at Aliamanu Military Reservation, Iroquois Point Housing, Marine Corps Base Hawaii-Kaneohe, Wheeler/Schofield and Tripler Army Medical Center.

The building was rehabilitated in the late-1980s by Hemmeter Corporation, when it was renamed No. 1 Capitol District Building.

This remodeled office complex became the Hemmeter Corporation Building. After completion in 1988, the historic building served as Hemmeter Headquarters for several years.

Hemmeter Design Group earned national awards for the redevelopment of the historic YMCA building in downtown Honolulu.

Today, the Hawai’i State Art Museum (managed by the Hawai’i State Foundation on Culture and the Arts) and several State offices are housed in the historic Spanish-Mission style building.

The Hawai‘i State Art Museum opened in the fall of 2002. The museum is located on the second floor of the No. 1 Capitol District Building.

The museum houses three galleries featuring (and serves as the principal venue for) artworks from the Art in Public Places Collection.

September 14, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Camp Harold Randolph Erdman

Camping became a cornerstone of YMCA programming in 1885 with the start of Camp Dudley in New York, America’s first known continuously running summer camp program. Since then, generations of kids, teens, young adults, and families have experienced the magic of camp—gaining confidence, building character, and making friends and lifelong memories. (YMCA)

“The YMCA has recently [1926] acquired [a] Mokuleia site on a ten year lease. It is owned by the Dillinghams who have given the lease practically free of charge. The Association is developing the site into a permanent camp.” It was called Camp Mokuleia (other unrelated camps in the area also used that name).

“For this year, a permanent kitchen was built and equipped, also a shower and washroom and a latrine. Plans for the development of the camp have been worked by Furer and Potter, architects, and call for a screened dining hall, a small headquarters building containing office, doctor’s office and library, 14 small bungalows to house 8 boys each, baseball field and two tennis courts.” (Advertiser, June 27, 1926)

On Christmas morning, 1932, the YMCA received an unexpected gift – the donation of the camp by sisters Marion (Dillingham) Erdman and Mary (Dillingham) Frear – daughters of Benjamin Franklin Dillingham and Emma Louise (Smith) Dillingham. Instead of being leased to by the family, Camp Mokulē‘ia would now belong to the Y.

The gift was made in memory of Mrs. Erdman’s 26-year-old son who had been killed in a polo accident. Their gift included a request that Camp Mokulē‘ia be renamed Camp Harold R. Erdman to ensure “his spirit of contribution to the happiness of others, carries on.” (YMCA)

Harold Randolph Erdman was the son of missionaries John Erdman and Marion (Dillingham) Erdman. John Erdman had been appointed in 1904 to go with his wife to Japan as a missionary to serve during the Russo-Japanese conflict, a war aggravated by Russian expansionism into the far reaches of Asia.

In the conflict, the Empire of Japan prevailed against the European power to gain control of the Manchurian and Korean territories. It was during the couple’s stay in Kobe, Japan, that the Reverend and Mrs. Erdman had a son, Harold Randolph Erdman. (McGhee) The Erdmans returned to Hawaii in 1907.

On September 11, 1929, Harold (grandson of Benjamin F Dillingham) married Mary Chickering. “The young couple returned to Honolulu and began construction of their dream home on the slopes of Diamond Head, an area subdivided by Harold Erdman’s uncle, Walter Dillingham, just mauka of Dillingham’s fabled home La Pietra.”

“The following June, the young couple had a daughter [Louise], born at the Kapiolani Maternity Home. Just over a year later, in July 1931, Harold Erdman, a graduate of Punahou and Princeton, was fatally injured in a polo match at Kapi‘olani Field when his horse fell and rolled over him. He died after remaining in a coma for a month.” (Advertiser, Dec 6, 2022)

“Camp Erdman has made remarkable progress since the Dillingham-Erdman families made a gift of the property Christmas, 1931. It was named in memory of Harold [Randolph] Erdman, well known in Honolulu as a boy and young man.”

“The gift of the land prompted many other gifts, notable among which were the erection of a roomy lodge and dining room as a gift of the Honolulu Rotary club, and a health building and just last year a director’s cabin, both of which were the gift of Mr. and Mrs FC Atherton.” (Star Bulletin, May 20, 1935)

Other gifts from the Rotary Club, the Erdman’s, the Dillingham’s, the Castle’s, the Westervelts’, and many other families and organizations came pouring in to help develop and construct the camp from Army tents with dirt floors to fully-constructed cabins, a dining room and kitchen, activity buildings, a chapel, and a memorial gate and swimming raft. (DLNR)

It wasn’t just a boys’ camp. “A family camp where father and mother, and brother and sister, and even an aunt, uncle or a grandparent, may enjoy camp life in the sunshine of the Mokuleia coast is being offered to the people of Honolulu by the Honolulu YMCA.”

“This is made more attractive this year through the new equipment which has been erected at the camp site known as Camp Harold [Randolph] Erdman.”

“The Rotary dining hall with its splendid kitchen and equipment, the new cottages – eight in all, as well as showers and modem toilet conveniences, together with a new hospital unit soon to be under construction, will be of interest to Honolulu mothers or fathers who would like to spend a few days on the beach with their children.” (Advertiser, July 2, 1932)

In 1941, the bombing of Pearl Harbor and American involvement in World War II had temporarily ended camping at Camp Erdman. The Army Engineers immediately placed 100 workmen at the camp and didn’t leave until 1943. Soon after, the camp was leased to the 14th Naval District as an officers’ rest camp. (DLNR)

The Navy gave up the camp in spring of 1946 and the YMCA was able to buy the improvements that were made at a fraction of the cost. Camping started back up immediately and attendance records were broken that first summer and increased every year since. (DLNR)

Today, Camp Erdman offers a range of programs for kids and teens throughout the summer and year-round for school groups and retreats, as well as healing camps for children of prison inmates, youth with disabilities, and more. (YMCA)

For some, it’s the first time they’ve ventured beyond their community, eaten three meals a day, or slept in a bed—not to mention, climbed, sang or gone swimming. Through financial aid, the Y ensures life-changing experiences for all children across O‘ahu. (YMCA)

June 21, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Hale O Aloha

The Young Men’s Christian Association (YMCA) was founded in London, England, on June 6, 1844, in response to unhealthy social conditions arising in the big cities at the end of the Industrial Revolution (roughly 1750 to 1850).

Growth of the railroads and centralization of commerce and industry brought many rural young men who needed jobs into cities like London. They worked 10 to 12 hours a day, six days a week.

By 1851 there were 24 Ys in Great Britain, with a combined membership of 2,700. That same year the Y arrived in North America: It was established in Montreal on November 25, and in Boston on December 29. (YMCA)

“One of the most interesting foreign YMCA’s of this period was that of Honolulu formed … by ten young Americans, (including) the Association’s first president, Sanford B. Dole”. (Hopkins)

“In Spring 1869 in Honolulu, three friends met at Peter Cushman Jones’s home and decided to form the Young Men’s Christian Association of Honolulu.”

“In the first year, many community leaders joined the YMCA Honolulu, including Sanford B. Dole, Theo H. Davies, and Samuel M. Damon.” (UH)

“From 1887 to 1922, Hawaii newspapers ran the ‘YMCA Notes,’ which reported the local YMCA news, including club meetings and events (e.g. preparing for boy summer camp). The content would usually fit in one to two columns and appear in a middle page of the newspaper.” (UH)

Then, associated camps started to form across the Islands. “Dr and Mrs WD [William Drake] Westervelt at a meeting of the YMCA board at noon today presented the board the keys to their mountain home near Kilauea, symbolic of the deed which had already been executed ….”

“The property consists of five acres of fine timber land with improvements of two houses, garages, water tanks and equipment. … In speaking of the gift Dr Westervelt said ‘We want that beautiful mountain home, 4,000 feet above sea level, to be available for a vacation home and center for Christian workers and, as the YMCA sees fit, for groups pf boys and girls.’” (Star Bulletin, Nov 16, 1933)

“If it is possible to develop there, particularly for the boys of Hawaii Island, a camp similar to the fine Harold Erdman camp on Oahu, it will be our pleasure. We have every confidence in the YMCA and are glad to turn over the property without strings. For it to be used in the interest of youth and character building.” (Westervelt, Sat Bulletin Nov 16, 1933)

“Camp Westervelt is the former volcano home of Mr and Mrs WD Westervelt, who, seeing the need of a YMCA camp to accommodate parties … deeded the home over to the YMCA during the past year.” (Star Bulletin, July 14, 1934)

Then “the gift of a five-acre lot on the Volcano Road adjoining Camp Westervelt, the YMCA Volcano campsite” was donated by Mrs Catherine W Deacon and her three sons as a memorial to the three sons’ aunt, Francis M Wetmore. “It is the plan of the Hawaii County YMCA to enlarge their volcano campsite whenever finances permit.” (Hawaii Tribune Herlad, April 27, 1935)

“Camp Westervelt has been used extensively during the past several years”. Then, in 1937 the YMCA announced plans for “the construction of a new and larger volcano camp building”; [t]he new building will be located on the Deacon property, which adjoins the present Camp Westervelt site.”

Then, “Due to the sustained and sustaining generosity of Mr Frank C Atherton; to the old-time open-handedness of the Rev and Mrs WD Westervelt; to the unflagging interest of our own Dr Thomas A Jaggar, who has other matters on his mind than seismic disturbances …”

“… there has been quietly and unostentatiously created at 28 miles from Hilo on the Volcano road a resort for the foregathering of Christian young men which is splendid monument to the quality and cumulative interest of all those persons who are interested in the betterment of their fellow men.”

“In these rather troublesome days when the minds of men appear to be centered upon politics, labor troubles, or other definitely worldly matters, the enterprising and alert persons who have other aims in life than political preferment, or personal ambitions …”

“… have established … one of the best builded and adequately and comfortably arranged YMCA camps to he found within the jurisdiction of that useful institution in the vicinity of cities where the membership is counted by the thousand, instead of by the score, as is the case of the Hilo YMCA.”

“Not the least of the many attractive features of this well-designed gathering place for young men is the unique feature of the Fireplace of Friendship, and it is a distinctive pleasure to chronicle the fact that Supervisor August S Costa brought to this fine occasion the kindly greetings of the board of supervisors, and that the Hawaii county band was also present to add its quota of harmony to this important event.” (Hawaii Tribune Herald, Oct 12, 1938)

“Built of lava-rock masonry, the construction includes ‘100 stones sent from 34 countries and coins from 56 countries, as well as 1200 friendship tokens, bought by individuals at 25 cents to $100 each to honor friends’”. (NPS)

The tradition of the Friendship Fireplace is to exemplify “world brotherhood, peace or friendship” hence the different stones from around the world were “in keeping with the spirit of the fireplace that arrowheads and such implements of war should find their proper place in decorating a fireplace of friendship as well”. (NPS)

“This ideal of a “Christian Brotherhood” promoted to the young men involved in YMCA manifested in the construction of the “Fireplace of Friendship” at the Lodge. Hardly a new idea, Friendship fireplaces began in the YMCA Seattle, Washington chapter under the leadership of Tracy Strong. The Friendship Fireplace at Hale-o-Aloha was similar to the fireplace at Camp Erdman.” (NPS)

“[T]he objective of the fireplace was to promote a perspective in the boys and a value at the camp that extended beyond its isolated, rural locale.” (NPS)

Now known as Kilauea Lodge and operated as a B&B lodge/restaurant, the property was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2013; its contributing elements include the YMCA Lodge, Dormitory, and Bunkhouses, the Westervelt Caretaker’s Cottage, two original redwood water tanks, and four entrance and exit stone pillars placed along the front semi-circular driveway. (HHF)

November 9, 2018 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Black Cat Cafe

“During the 1930s, the thousands of young men who joined the military service and sailed to the Hawaiian Islands for duty considered themselves fortunate indeed to receive such a choice assignment.”

“They enjoyed the beautiful beaches, lush foliage, and year-round pleasant climate that characterized “the Paradise of the Pacific” but, at the same time, they also served as the first line of defense for the United States.”

“On payday, it was the first sergeant who sat with the pay officer at a desk in the day room and called out the names of assembled personnel, one at a time.”

“As his name was called, each man stepped up, saluted the pay officer, repeated his own name, received his pay in cash, saluted again, did an about face, and left the room.”

“The pay in those days was $21 a month for privates, and from that amount 25 cents went to the Old Soldiers Home and $1.50 to the quartermaster laundry. After receiving what was left, the men normally had the rest of the day off.”

“If they wanted to go to Honolulu, a bus ride cost ten cents and taxi fare was a quarter. The bus line ended at the Army and Navy YMCA on Hotel Street in downtown Honolulu where a taxi depot was conveniently located so military members could take cabs to other areas.”

“Across the street was the famous Black Cat Cafe, a favorite hangout for off-duty soldiers and sailors. A Coney Island atmosphere prevailed there, with hot dogs, hamburgers, sea food, slot machines, and various other concessions.” (Arakaki & Kuborn)

“Throughout the afternoon and evening … buses and rattletrap taxis raced down the two-lane highway connecting Pearl Harbor and Honolulu, past the wrecks of similar taxis, and by sunset, a white river of sailors was flowing down Hotel Street.” (Clarke)

“On weekends, the streets of Honolulu were jammed with sailors. Here you will see one location that was popular for its cheap but good food.”

“Nowhere was the hustle and bustle greater than at the Black Cat Café. Ideally situated across from the Armed Forces YMCA at the corner of Hotel and Richards streets, the Cat provided the men with food, slot machines, and various other types of entertainment.”

“One very popular concession was the photo gallery where they could pose for photographs with “hula girls” to send to their families as souvenirs.”

“But for servicemen the food at the Cat was the major draw and after the war it was one of the most fondly recalled pleasures of their time in the Islands.”

“Prices were rock-bottom — the menu in 1941 listed hot dogs for 10 cents, hamburgers for 15 cents, a roast turkey dinner for 50 cents, and the most expensive item was the porterhouse steak with mushrooms for a dollar.” (USS Helena)

“(T)he bar most favored by servicemen. Many said it was the best joint to buy cheap beer and whiskey after working out at the YMCA across the street and before going in search of women.” (Knotts)

“But for servicemen the food at the Cat was the major draw and after the war it was one of the most fondly recalled pleasures of their time in the Islands.” (USS Helena)

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Black Cat Cafe Honolulu, HI 1939

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Black-Cat

Soldiers and sailors lined up at a business near the bus depot and taxi stand. Building with the gabled facade is the Black Cat-PP-39-6-001

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Black Cat-menu-1943

February 2, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Growth of the railroads and centralization of commerce and industry brought many rural young men who needed jobs into cities like London. They worked 10 to 12 hours a day, six days a week.

George Williams came to London 20 years later as a sales assistant in a draper’s shop, a forerunner of today’s department store. He and a group of fellow drapers organized the first YMCA to substitute Bible study and prayer for life on the streets.

The YMCA idea, which began among evangelicals, was unusual because it crossed the rigid lines that separated all the different churches and social classes in England in those days.

This openness was a trait that would lead eventually to including in YMCAs all men, women and children, regardless of race, religion or nationality. Also, its target of meeting social need in the community was dear from the start. (YMCA)

“One of the most interesting foreign YMCA’s of this period was that of Honolulu formed … by ten young Americans, (including) the Association’s first president, Sanford B. Dole”. (Hopkins)

“In Spring 1869 in Honolulu, three friends met at Peter Cushman Jones’s home and decided to form the Young Men’s Christian Association of Honolulu.”

“In the first year, many community leaders joined the YMCA Honolulu, including Sanford B. Dole, Theo H. Davies, and Samuel M. Damon.” (UH)

“The ‘Young Men’s Christian Association,’ of Honolulu, appears to have started in to do a good work. They have fitted up the room up-stairs in the Sailors’ Home building, in neat and convenient style.”

“A card in a prominent place, informs us that ‘This room is free to all; it is supported by the voluntary contributions of the Citizens of Honolulu, and Is under the management of the Young Men’s Christian Association. Visitors are requested not to smoke in the room, and not to take away newspapers or magazines.’”

“There, we have given our young men, who appear to be in earnest in their desire to improve themselves and brother men, this notice, and only hope that their enterprise will prove a success.” (Hawaiian Gazette, September 29, 1869)

“(I)n 1876 a Chinese YMCA was organized for the immigrants of that period. It did a notable work.” (Hopkins)

During the first twelve years, YMCA Honolulu operated with no building or paid employee. Then, a building was built, and the first paid secretary started working. (UH)

On February 4, 1882, the Privy Council addressed, “A petition by Henry Waterhouse and others for a Charter of Incorporation for the Young Men’ s Christian Association of Honolulu … On motion of Mr. Castle, it was voted that the Privy Council recommend that the Charter be granted.” (Privy Council, February 4, 1882)

Later that year, the foundation for a building generally referred to as ‘YMCA Hall’ was laid on a lot the purchased the year before at Hotel and Alakea streets in downtown Honolulu (makai of Hotel and Ewa of Alakea). (Papacostas)

“During the next decade, work for Japanese was inaugurated; the program for native Hawaiians was also kept separate from that for Americans.”

“A secretary of the Honolulu Association was recruited in 1885 by H. J. McCoy, the aggressive San Francisco secretary, who visited the Islands in that year.” (Hopkins)

“In the mid-1890s the Honolulu YMCA published a paper, held religious services at the barracks, admitted women to membership—two of whom carried on the boys’ work program—and reported a YMCA among the lepers of Molokai.”

“This unusual Association was a remarkable example of what occurred when the YMCA idea was carried to a foreign shore by American emigrants.” (Hopkins)

Today, the YMCA of Honolulu is one of the largest non-profit organizations in the state. Every year, more than 100,000 individuals are served in a variety of programs.

YMCA programs and services are open to children, teens, women and men of all ages, faiths and backgrounds. In all programs, the core values of caring, honesty, respect and responsibility are promoted.

Programs and services center around three areas of focus: Youth Development, Healthy Living and Social Responsibility.

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YMCA Building

YMCA Hall