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December 22, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Puu ‘Ō‘ō Ranch

William Herbert (Willie – WH) Shipman (1854-1943) was born on December 17, 1854, at Lahaina, Maui to William Cornelius Shipman and Jane Stobie Shipman. Willie’s parents had signed up as missionaries destined for Micronesia.

They stopped over at Lahaina, Maui because his mother was due to deliver Willie within 2 months. His parents then took a mission station in Kaʻū, Hawaiʻi, based in Waiʻōhinu.

Willie Shipman was inducted into the Paniolo [Hawaiian Cowboy] Hall of Fame in 2017. (Hawai‘i Cattlemen’s Council) “Originally old man Shipman [WH Shipman] had 72,000 acres that ran from the ocean up to the National Park. … He needed money so he sold off quite a bit of that land from actually from the Puna Road up to the National Park boundary.” (Devine, Pili Productions)

Of Shipman’s four ranches, Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō was the most productive, being both large and well-watered. An estimated 5,000 head of cattle ran at Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō, 1,500 at Keauhou, and only ‘a few’ at ‘Āinahou. (Langlas)

Kea‘au Ranch was once well maintained, but by about the 1930-40s it was neglected and produced few cattle. “[I]t was categorized as a ranch, but it was more like a wild cattle operation. You know, it wasn’t controlled like Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō.” (Devine, Pili Productions)

Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Ranch covered 23,000 acres between the 5,000 to 6,500 feet elevation. (Tuggle) Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Ranch was first established by John T Baker, a Hawaiian-Tahitian-Caucasian protege of Kalākaua. (Langlas)

Baker came to Hawai‘i Island in 1886 when his high-ranking wife, Ululani, was appointed governess of the island. He became a successful rancher and businessman in Hilo, and in 1892-93 served as Hawai’i Island governor.

Baker obtained a lease in Pi‘ihonua in 1887 and must have started ranching at Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō some time after that. ‘He had built some fences, and about 600 head of mixed cattle, including some Longhorns, were found on the ranch at that time.’ (Henke) Baker used to go up to the ranch every September with an entourage. (Langlas)

(Baker “is best known, perhaps, as the original of the statute of King Kamehameha, for which he was asked to pose, due to the striking likeness to the ancient ruler.” (Advertiser, Sep 8, 1921) “Likeness refers to a likeness of features rather than of body.” (Charlot))

In 1899, Baker sold the ranch lease to Shipman. Shipman introduced Hereford bulls to upgrade the stock and increased the number of cattle. Shipman expanded the ranch to 23,000 acres, including the upper portions of all the ahupua’a owned by the sugar plantations north to Honohina. (Langlas)

In the early part of the century, the ranch included two government leases in Pi‘ihonua and leases of sugar plantation lands to the north in the ahupua‘a of Pauka‘a, Pāpa‘ikou, Makahanaloa, Hakalau Nui and Honohina.

Two smaller parcels were bought in fee simple, an 80-acre piece with a spring on it makai of the Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō ranch house, and a 500-acre parcel in Pāpa‘ikou which contained the old Hitchcock house at Pua ‘Ākala.

In the 1940s the ranch got the lease of Kipuka ‘Āinahou in Humu‘ula, just south of the Humu‘ula Sheep Station, and ran cattle there until about 1950.

Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Ranch was part of WH Shipman’s larger operations, mostly centered in Puna. Shipman had a sugar plantation at ‘Ola‘a, with the mill at Kea‘au. He had three ranches in Puna: Kea‘au Ranch on the lava land of Kea‘au ahupua‘a, Keauhou Ranch north of Kilauea Crater, and ‘Āinahou Ranch south of Kilauea Crater. (Langlas)

There were three stations built on Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Ranch: the main Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō headquarters and the Puakala house station, which were built early, and the Saddle House, built later.

In the 1940s, there were permanent personnel (mostly Japanese) at the ranch responsible for fencing, maintaining the ranch houses, breaking horses, and watching the cattle. Many of the cowboys, who did the driving, branding, and so on, were based at Kea‘au or at Keauhou Ranch and only came up when there was a big job to do; these cowboys were mostly Hawaiian and Portuguese. (Langlas)

The Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō headquarters had a koa ranch house for the owners, a couple of bunkhouses and a cottage for the cowboys and fence-men, a stable, and barn. The Puakala station had a koa house built by Hitchcock, a couple bunkhouses, and a barn. The cowboys lived up there when they worked that end of the ranch. (Gene Olivera, Langlas)

“In Puu ‘O‘o we had one, two, three bunk houses for the cowboys. For the cowboy and the fencemen. We had the whole house. In Puakala we had another three house, you know counting the big house eh.”

“[W]e had all the cowboys. We had about 33, 34 cowboys at that time. Yeah, used to stay up there, live up there [at Puu ‘Ō‘ō]. But after they made the Saddle road good, most of the boys that married, they came home eh. They don’t sleep out, only us the single ones used to stay up there.”

“So the one that fencemen, ah they, most of the time they kept outside the fence line where they live to the job. So they camp out there. They stay yeah. Where had the water gulch, come down where they get water to take a bath and all that. Then when they want water they come up the house because they had spring water at Puu ‘Ō‘ō house.” (Olivera, Pili Productions)

In the early days of the ranch (probably beginning in 1903, about the time the railroad was completed up to Glenwood), the cattle were driven to market down the Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō – Volcano Trail to Keauhou Ranch, then down to Glenwood Station where they were loaded onto railroad cars and shipped down to Kea’au or Hilo. (Langlas)

“The Hilo Railroad Company was chartered May 28, 1899. The road has been constructed from Waiakea, at the east side of Hilo Harbor, to Kapoho, in the district of Puna, a distance of 24 miles.”

“On this line, and 7 miles out from Hilo, is the Olaa Sugar Company’s mill. From this point the railroad runs through Keeau and Olaa to the 22 milepost [Glenwood] on the Volcano road, 9 miles from the Volcano House. … This part of the line is nearly constructed, and will probably be finished by January 1, 1903.” (Report of the Governor, 1902)

After that, the cattle were still driven down to Volcano, but from there they were trucked down to Kea’au. Once Saddle Road was built, in 1943, Shipman trucked the cattle down that way instead. (Langlas)

Shipman also had a controlling interest in the Hilo Meat Company, which slaughtered most of the cattle from Big Island ranches (other than Parker Ranch) and which supplied the local market. The cattle were slaughtered al Kea‘au and the meat was sold at Hilo Meat Company on Front Street in Hilo.

“I managed the Hilo Meat Company for thirty-nine years. … Shipman had a controlling interest in the meat company and I was working for the meat company. But I was also, in fact Shipman paid half my salary and the meat company paid half my salary when I first started with the meat company.”

“Shipman and Kapapala [owned by Brewer] and Kukaiau, [owned by] Davies [shipped cattle to Hilo Meat], and we bought cattle from a lot of independents, little Hamakua people and all that, C.L. Chow at one time who was involved with the Standard Meat Market.”

“Parker Ranch had an interest in Hilo Meat Company’s small stock holding. And they really didn’t ship cattle here. They really set up Hilo Meat to buy cattle from everybody else. I mean this island was the only island that produced more then it could take care of itself.” (Devine, Pili Productions)

“They had to ship to Honolulu. And Parker Ranch shipped all their cattle to Honolulu. Yeah, to Hawaii Meat Company that they had a controlling interest in, in other words to, if they started dumping cattle on this island that’d be chaos.”

“Too much produced and no markets so Mr. Carter, AW Carter, who was a trustee of Parker Ranch, who was quite an astute person and he figured out that they’d better not, that it didn’t take much figuring that they’d better ship all their cattle to Honolulu.”

“Otherwise there’d be too much competition here. So he set up, he was the one was instrumental in setting up Hilo Meat Company and getting the various ranchers to take stock in it and let Hilo Meat control more or less what was sold on this side of the island”. (Devine, Pili Productions)

Within the Hakalau Forest area as the juncture of three of the big ranches of east Hawai‘i (Parker Ranch to the uplands in Humu‘ula, Kuka‘iau Ranch to the north in Maulua Nui and beyond, and Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Ranch to the south). (Tomonari-Tuggle) However, mauka ranching here started to phase out.

In 1985, the Fish & Wildlife Service, with the active involvement and support of The Nature Conservancy, purchased Shipman Ranch lands and established the Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge. Later, other nearby privately owned parcels were purchased or donated to the refuge.

© 2024 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: Economy, Place Names, Prominent People Tagged With: Hawaii, Puu Oo, Mauna Kea, Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge, Hakalau, WH Shipman, Puu Oo Ranch, Shipman

July 13, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Pua Akala

The Polynesian settlers of Hawai‘i brought with them their primary plants used for food and other uses, and four animals, the moa (chicken), ‘īlio (dog), pua‘a (pig), and, inadvertently, the ‘iole (rat). The first three animals were the primary meat of the Hawaiians.

It wasn’t until the arrival of Captain Vancouver in 1793 that cattle were introduced to Hawai‘i. Vancouver dropped one bull and one cow at Kawaihae, and took the remaining five cows to Kealakekua as a gift for King Kamehameha I. The bull died, so it was lucky that a year later Captain Vancouver returned with more cattle, four bulls and eight cows.

A 10 year kapu (taboo) was placed on introduced cattle to feed on the rich green grasslands of Hawai‘i Island. These first cattle, or bullocks, were longhorn cattle and soon grew very wild. The first “ranchers” were bullock hunters, who rode to the uplands of Mauna Kea to shoot cattle or trap them in pits. (DLNR) The meat was used for food and the hides for export.

By the 1820s, there were as many as 30,000 head of cattle on the islands.  Historically, agriculture has played a large role in the economy of the island, and the Islands as a whole. During the 19th and 20th centuries, the main industries were sugar cultivation and cattle ranching. (FWS)

As early as 1831, portions of the land on the slopes of Mauna Kea and neighboring forest lands were being worked by Daniel Castle; and, later, by the Castle and Hitchcock brothers for lumber milling and bullock hunting operations. (Kumu Pono)

The Hitchcock brothers, David Howard Hitchcock and Edward Griffin Hitchcock, were the sons of Harvey Rexford and Rebecca (Howard) Hitchcock, American Protestant missionaries who arrived with the 5th Company of ABCFM missionaries.

In 1875, the Hitchcock brothers purchased the ‘O‘ōkala sugar plantation.  In addition, DH Hitchcock was a land surveyor whose work focused not only on parcels of land being sold, but also on land divisions.

In 1883, the Hitchcock brothers built a house at Puakala at the upper boundary of the ahupua‘a, described as being “heavily timbered with ohia, koa, and other Hawaiian woods.  Wild cattle and hogs abound in the upper woods”. (Tuggle)

“The house is built almost entirely of Koa sawed in the neighborhood … it was put up by Messrs. Devereaux and Tenny, and was finished in July”. (Pua ‘Ākala Guest Book, Oct 16, 1883)

“But Puakala – what of that? It is situated in the hollow of an amphi-theatre of hills. The hills to the west are mostly barren of trees, but well covered … Puaakala grows the finest of koa wood found on the islands. It is far handsomer than mahogany, some of it beautifully dark, some knotted and some curly.”

“The cattle are fast destroying the koa trees with other trees of the original forests … Of this wood, then, the house is built. The boards were sawed by hand and excellently well done, straight and true.”

“There has been no attempt at planing the lumber except for the doors, and this little handwork sends the polish out and shows the hard smooth grain of the wood. The wide boards are battened to keep out the cold, but cracks enough are left to keep the air always fresh and sweet.”

“At one end of the living-room is a capacious stone fire-place 3 x 4 feet. The opposite end of the building is divided into two sleeping rooms.”

“But the sleeping capacity of the house is not limited to these two bed-rooms, for there is an attic and the living room has lounges and a cot-bed to be used in emergencies. In the fire-place a fire is kept burning day and night.” (Paradise of the Pacific, January 1890)

The private koa-plank cabin known as Pua ‘Ākala (also referred to as Puakala) was used as an aristocratic hunting retreat. (Mills) The cabin was in the area known as Puakala or Kapuakala, a place at the upper edge of Papa‘ikou and is also the name of a watercourse in the area.  The Hitchcock family mountain home eventually became known as Pua ‘Ākala Ranch. (Tuggle)

When staying at their mountain home at Pua ‘Ākala, the Hitchcocks hunted wild cattle and pigs, and “the occasional bills of fare written in the [guest] book by appreciative guests always included roast beef, usually pork as well”. (Tuggle)

As described by Kingdom land surveyor, ED Baldwin, “we … headed for Puu Oo, where we found the trail leading around the mountain towards Waimea, which we followed, reaching Puakala – Hitchcock’s mountain house – at five o’clock P.M.”

“This house is sixteen and a half miles in a direct line from Hilo, but about thirty-five by the trail. The Hitchcocks had kindly invited us to make this point our headquarters.”

“What a surprise it was to find, at this distance, such a large comfortable house, built of solid koa, all of which had been sawed out by hand! It was surely mountain luxury to lay off in comfortable rocking chairs before the large, open, old-fashioned fireplace. The elevation at this point is 6,325 feet. …”

“We lived high and well at Puakala; neither did our six cooks spoil the broth; but a specialty from each one helped to swell the bill of fare each meal. One made such fine biscuit, another such soup, another veal pies, another oyster fritters, and another still hit the climax by making akala (wild raspberry) pies.” (Baldwin, Kumupono)

An 1887 entry in the guest book of their mountain house recounts: “A series of hunts ⎯ all successful ⎯ gave the usual spice to the stay here of a short nine days.”

“No thrilling encounters with wild bulls this time but several racy runs after cattle resulted in a total of four bulls, three cows, three yearlings, killed ⎯ two heifers and two small bulls captured ⎯ (one since escaped) with a boar or lean sow shot here and there.” (D Howard Hitchcock, Tuggle)

By the end of the century, there were at least two major ranches in the upper Hakalau Forest area.  Kukaiau Ranch was started by Charles Notley in 1887 and was shortly thereafter sold to John M. Horner.  By 1929, it covered 35,000 acres between 2,300 to 7,600 feet.

The other ranch was Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Ranch, which covered 23,000 acres between 5,000 to 6,500 feet.  John Baker started the ranch in 1896. (Tuggle)

In 1902, William ‘Willie’ Herbert Shipman secured leases on the lands of Pāpa‘ikou, Makahanaloa and other Hilo District lands, which were incorporated into the Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō ranching operation.  (Kumu Pono)

WH Shipman was born on December 17, 1854, at Lahaina, Maui to William Cornelius Shipman and Jane Stobie Shipman. Willie’s parents had signed up as missionaries destined for Micronesia. They stopped over at Lāhaina, Maui because his mother was due to deliver within 2 months. His parents then took a mission station in Kaʻū, Hawaiʻi, based in Waiʻōhinu.

In 1920, WH Shipman, leasing Pi‘ihonua and operating out of Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō, extended his lease on Makahanaloa, and added the uplands of Pauka‘a and Pāpa‘ikou (the Pua‘ākala house and ranch of the Hitchcocks), to his Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Ranch operation. (Kumu Pono)

Pua ‘Ākala Ranch served as a satellite operation to Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Ranch. (Roy Shipman Blackshear, Tuggle) WH Shipman, Ltd sold its interest in the Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō parcel in the 1970s. (Kumu Pono)

Pua ‘Ākala cabin and the surrounding property are now part of the Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge.  The Refuge notes “The cabin is well-suited as a location for interpreting the refuge’s forest resources and Hawaii’s unique history.”

“The cabin’s ties with the land survey and divisions, missionary families, politicians, hunting, Koa forests, birds of the forest, and current management strategies provides a wealth of interpretive materials. It is frequently visited by special use permit holders as they lead guided tours on the refuge.” (Messer)

David Howard (D Howard) Hitchcock, son of David Howard (David) Hitchcock and grandson of American missionaries, has ties to Pua ‘Ākala.  He is perhaps one of the most important and loved artists from Hawaiʻi. Although born and raised in Hawaiʻi, he left the islands to study art in San Francisco and Paris.

Before his formal training abroad, Hitchcock was inspired by other Volcano School painters and was encouraged by Jules Tavernier to endeavor life as an artist. Hitchcock admits to following Tavernier and Joseph Strong around, ‘like a parasite.’  (NPS HAVO)

“Hitchcock was early hailed as ‘our island painter’ and his early canvases met an enthusiastic reception in Hilo and Honolulu. The Honolulu press commented on them at length. His early work, up to his European trip in 1890, shows great indebtedness to (Jules) Tavernier…” (Forbes)

He spoke fluent Hawaiian and traveled extensively throughout the islands, documenting the natural and cultural features in a sketch book and photographs, which he converted into paintings. During his long career he completed more than 1200 paintings, published 700 photographs. (Messer)

D Howard Hitchcock’s lasting mark at Pua ‘Ākala Ranch was a “charming study of akala berries” on a door which survives, well-preserved, in the possession of one of the Shipman descendants. (Roy Shipman Blackshear, Tuggle)

As described 1922 by Charmian London, wife of Jack London, “Puaakala, roofed in red corrugated iron, was otherwise even more picturesque, more hand-made in appearance than the PuuOO eyrie, even the washing-bowl and the bath-tub being dubbed out of koa. …”

“That night, when I shut the koa panel that was my bedroom door, I became aware that Gauguin had not been the only young painter who left his mark upon wood.”

“I found on the inner side an oil, manifestly not new, of a spray of akala berries and leaves. It had been done … by Howard Hitchcock, who has since attracted much attention by his fine canvases of Hawaii.” (Our Hawaii, London) (D Howard Hitchcock painted it on July 13, 1885.)

Click the following link for additional information on Pua ‘Ākala:

Click to access Pua_Akala-Hakalau_Forest_National_Wildlife_Refuge.pdf

© 2024 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: Economy, General, Buildings, Place Names, Prominent People Tagged With: Hawaii, David Howard Hitchcock, Jack London, Charmian London, Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge, Hakalau, WH Shipman, Pua Akala

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