Images of Old Hawaiʻi

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April 20, 2022 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

John (Johnny) Henry Wilson

His story starts in 1820, when his great grandfather, Andrew Henri Blanchard (captain of the brig Thaddeus that brought the first company of Protestant missionaries to Hawaiʻi) married Koloa, a Molokaʻi chiefess.

Fast forward a couple generations and John “Johnny” Henry Wilson was born December 15, 1871 to Charles Burnett (CB) Wilson and Eveline (Townsend) Wilson.

His parents’ friends included the John and Lydia Dominus and Kalākaua.  “We had known Mr. Wilson quite well as a young man when he was courting his wife. My husband and myself had warmly favored his suit; and, with his wife, he naturally became a retainer of the household, and from time to time they took up their residence with us.”  (Liliʻuokalani)

During her imprisonment, Queen Liliʻuokalani was denied any visitors other than one lady in waiting (Mrs. Eveline Wilson – Johnny’s mother.)  Johnny would bring newspapers hidden in flowers from the Queen’s garden; reportedly, Liliʻuokalani’s famous song Kuʻu Pua I Paoakalani (written while imprisoned,) was dedicated to him (it speaks of the flowers at her Waikiki home, Paoakalani.).

Johnny Wilson attended Fort Street School and St. Alban’s College (forerunners to the present McKinley and ʻIolani High Schools.)

He had a short stint working for Dillingham’s Oʻahu Railway and Land Company – there he had interest in being a civil engineer.  In 1891, with financial support from Liliʻuokalani, Wilson was in the first class of Stanford University – there, he was known as “Kanaka” Wilson.

Back in Hawaiʻi, in 1897, Johnny and fellow Stanford student Louis Whitehouse won the bid to expand and construct a ‘carriage road’ over the Pali.  Ground was broken on May 26, 1897 and the road was opened for carriages on January 19, 1898.  (Later, the Pali tunnels were completed and the old road abandoned – on August 1, 1961, Mrs. Jennie Wilson (his wife) led the dedication ceremonies.)

Wilson and Whitehouse also won the contract to extend Benjamin Dillingham’s railroad around Kaʻena Point.  To keep the bid low, they carried laborers, equipment and supplies to the site and freight back by boat – on October 14, 1897, the place where the first Japanese laborers landed for this job is known to this day as “Yokohama Beach.”  (ascehawaii)

He and his wife, Jennie “Kini” Kapahu (previously a court dancer) toured the continent in 1900 with their Hawaiian Village hula troupe.  (Kini Kapahu claimed that she was the ‘first girl to leave Hawai‘i to go as a dancer in the mainland’.)

Wilson got involved with politics and is credited as being the most important Democrat in the first half of 20th-century Hawaiʻi; his name is used with Jack Burns in the party movement.  He was in a meeting on April 30, 1900 that organized the Democratic Party of Hawaiʻi.

His initial political campaign in 1918 met with failure.  Mayor Joe Fern, Honolulu’s first Mayor, appointed his good friend Wilson as road supervisor for the Honolulu district.  Later, Wilson succeeded Fern as Mayor, following the illness and death of Fern.

Fern died on February 20, 1920; the Honolulu Board of Supervisors voted in Wilson on February 25, and he was sworn in as Mayor on February 29.  He would serve three stints as mayor: 1920 to 1927, 1929 to 1931 and 1946 to 1954.  (From 1941 to 1946, he was Director of Public Works.)

Honolulu Hale was an idea started by Joseph J Fern, but he died before it came to fruition.  Mayor Wilson carried on Fern’s dream; Honolulu Hale was finally completed in 1928.

Wilson foresaw the growth on the windward side and excavation commenced on January 8, 1954 on the “Kalihi Tunnel.”  Near the end of May 1954 tunnel excavation transitioned from rock to “earth” – in the summer of 1954, several tunnel collapses and surface sinkholes subsequently led to a large collapse on August 14 that killed five construction workers.

Construction ceased while they considered alternative methods of completion.  Tunnel excavation restarted in February 1956 and the first half-mile tunnel was open to two-way traffic in 1958; both tunnels were fully operational by November 1960.

Initially known as the ‘Kalihi Tunnel,’ and often called the Likelike Tunnels, they are named in honor of John H Wilson.  (1998 brought the completion of H-3 (and the Tetsuo Harano Tunnels – named after a longtime state highways administrator.))

In addition to the John H Wilson Tunnels, the John H Wilson Elementary School on Kilauea Avenue and the adjoining Wilson Playground at Papakōlea in Waiʻalae Nui Valley are named for Wilson.

Johnny Wilson passed away on July 2, 1956 at the age of 84.

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Filed Under: Prominent People Tagged With: Johnny Wilson, Yokohama, Joe Fern, Likelike Highway, Hawaii, Paoakalani, Waikiki, Honolulu, Oahu, Liliuokalani, Pali, Wilson Tunnel

January 9, 2022 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Clarence Hyde Cooke Home

Clarence Hyde Cooke was born April 17, 1876 in Honolulu, Hawaii, the second son of Charles Montague Cooke and Anna Rice Cooke (and grandson of missionaries Amos Starr Cooke and William Harrison Rice.)  He graduated from Punahou (1894,) and attended, but did not graduate from Yale.

He married Lily Love, daughter of Robert Love on August 11, 1898; they had eight children: Dorothea, Martha, Anna, Clarence Jr, Harrison, Alice, Robert and John.

Cooke began his business career in Honolulu with Hawaiian Safe Deposit & Trust Co, in 1897.  The next year he was at Bank of Hawaiʻi and about 10-years later (1909,) he succeeded his father as president of the bank and became Chairman in 1937.

In 1932, the Cooke’s built a home in Nuʻuanu (unfortunately, Lily died the next year.)   The home was designed by Hardie Phillip, one of the associates of the New York architectural firm of Mayers, Murray and Phillip, the successor firm of Bertram Goodhue and Associates (who also designed the C Brewer Building, Governor Carter’s residence and others.)

The home has the distinctive double-pitched ‘Dickey Roof’ (following the signature element of architect CW Dickey.)  The 24-room Cooke mansion (including 10-bedrooms, 7-full bathrooms and two half-baths) is noted for its sprawling spaciousness, numerous lanai, Hawaiian hipped roof and lush grounds.

Well-planned, well-crafted and paying high attention to detail, the house was built for, and was known for, lavish, opulent entertainment. As such, it epitomizes the finest traditions in upper class residential design in Hawaii for its period.  (HHF)

The two-story white-washed brick and frame residence features an asymmetrical plan which lends the building a sense of sprawling informality. The house is laid out with two wings running perpendicularly in opposite directions off a formal entry hall.  A number of lanai extend out from the principal rooms on both the ground and second floors.

A vine covered porte-cochere, shaded by a banyan tree, extends diagonally out from the intersection of the makai (left) wing and the entry area. It has segmental arched openings, and is paved with Chinese granite blocks. A tiled fountain is in the corner of the porte-cochere.  (NPS)

Cooke lived there until his death on August 2, 1944.  He bequeathed the estate to the Academy of Arts (architect Hardie Phillip also designed the Honolulu Academy of Arts building on Beretania.)

The Academy later (1945) sold the home to Alfred Lester and Elizabeth ((daughter of Lincoln L McCandless) Marks.   (Since then, the property has been generally referred to as the “Marks Estate.”)

At about this time, Johnny Wilson, the builder of the original carriage-road over the Pali, was re-elected Mayor (1948.)  One of his first actions was to seek approval from the Territorial Legislature for an increase in the gasoline tax to pay for a tunnel in Kalihi Valley.

Wilson argued the Kalihi alternative would serve the entire windward side, while the Pali would merely be a private access road for Kailua residents.

The Territorial legislature turned down Wilson’s 1949 gas tax proposal for the Kalihi tunnel.  That same year, Governor Ingram M Stainback looked to build the Pali Highway alignment, instead.  (ASCE)  (This alignment would cut through the Marks Estate.)

Marks went to court to block the proposed highway.  After lengthy legal battles, in 1956, the government bought 7-acres of the 17-acre estate, and also bought the home and other improvements.

(On May 11, 1957, the Honolulu-bound tunnels on Pali Highway were opened; the Pali Tunnels were fully-functional in 1959.  The Kalihi ‘Wilson Tunnels’ were also later built and fully operational by November 1960.)

Although the State condemned and bought the property and home, they allowed Marks to continue to live there (the Marks paid $1,500-per month for the first three years, then $500-per month until 1976, then the State took over the property.)

After that, the now-defunct Hawaiʻi Institute for Management and Analysis in Government, part of the Department of Budget and Finance, acquired the property for a research, training and conference center.  (The Institute was later absorbed into DBEDT.)  (Danninger)

The State government then used the estate for office space, conferences and special events, and it was put on the National Register of Historic Places in 1986.

After trying to sell it for years, the State finally auctioned off the property in 2002. Reportedly, it had been appraised for $4.5-million, but labor union Unity House Inc bought it for $2.5-million.

Real property tax records note a subsequent (2006) conveyance of the property for $4.41-million.  Later listings note the property has since been on and off the market.

© 2022 Hoʻokuleana LLC

 

Filed Under: Buildings, Economy, Prominent People Tagged With: Clarence Hyde Cooke, Hawaii, Oahu, Pali, Nuuanu, Marks Estate, Alfred Marks, Wilson Tunnel, Johnny Wilson

February 22, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Pali Saloon

“All visitors to Honolulu, even those who only have the few hours during which the Australian steamers remain in harbour, drive up the lovely Nuʻuanu valley to the Pali, a great precipice 1000 feet above the sea, over which all travellers must pass in crossing the island.”

“It is a seven miles’ drive, and generally a delightfully cool one, as the trade winds blow down through the pass. In the early missionaries’ days, travellers had to lower themselves down into the valley below by means of iron rods, from hand to hand. Now, however, there is a good road.” (Owen, 1898)

Before the construction of the Pali Road, residents living on the windward side of Oahu would travel over the Ko‘olau Mountains by foot, along a treacherous path, to reach Honolulu.

In 1876, improvements were made to the trail to allow horses access to the trail as well. Regardless of these improvements, the trail was still quite dangerous, and took time to travel.

In 1897, plans for the construction of Pali Road were initiated. Engineered by Johnny Wilson and Lou Whitehouse, after its completion, it was considered one of Oahu’s major roadways. Pali Road, connecting with Nu‘uanu Avenue (the present Pali Highway,) officially connected the windward side of the island with downtown Honolulu. (NPS)

“Perhaps no better point could be found along the road from which to look back upon the town and harbor than the veranda of Mr (TB) Arcia’s Half-way House.”

“A pleasant hostelry and a genial host are just the proper accompaniments to such a view; they are garnishing of the feast, which being good in themselves make all the rest the more enjoyable.”

“From here is to be had a panoramic view of town and shipping, suburban villas and the deep blue sea, towering peaks and rich tropical forest, verdant meadow dotted with Taro patches, banana groves and the huts of Kanakas. From here to the seashore is but four miles, but the change was most delightful from the daily surroundings of town life, even in Honolulu”.

“The Halfway House is conducted by Mr. Arcia on temperance principles, so the traveler whose first sensation on seeing an hotel is a craving for ‘old Bourbon’ or ‘lager,’ will not find all that satisfies him in the place. But a good meal is always available there on short notice.”

“If the tourist is bound for the Pali only, and intends to return at once to Honolulu, he cannot do better than order his lunch or dinner to be ready for him here on his return. He will get what is good, and can indulge in a delightful view whilst he is eating it, which is something he cannot secure in the town.”

“From the Halfway House to the Pali is a distance of two miles. As it is at least four miles from the middle of the town to Arcia’s inviting resting place, it is evident that whoever christened it the Halfway House took into account the amount of exertion to be undergone rather than the mere lineal distance.”

“And now for the Pali, of which every one arriving here hears so much beforehand, that he may reasonably expect the reality to disappoint him. Before it is reached, the road breaks into sharp ascents, winding among the projecting masses of the hills. “

“Just as I round the last corner, the wind coming up from the sea and pressing through this narrow gorge, is something terrific. The beauty and interesting character of the view, however, compensate for the blow, and, so far as I am concerned, I do not find any exaggeration in what I have heard about it.” (Polk, 1880)

Then, “Emil Wery, a Belgian, arrived in Honolulu, on the Island of Oahu, in or about the year 1878. His trade was that of a bricklayer”

“Shortly after his arrival he married a Hawaiian woman whose given name was Hattie, who, at the time of her marriage, was working as a nurse-maid … (they) had three children – Emily (now Emily Hudson… born in 1882, William, born in 1884, and Julius, born in 1896 or 1897.”

“Soon after William’s birth the family moved to a place a few miles outside of the city and there conducted a wayside tavern locally known as the ‘Halfway House.’”

“Wery, while there, worked at his trade and was also employed as overseer and caretaker of the nearby Nuʻuanu Valley reservoir, and his wife Hattie ran the tavern, assisted by Wery when he was not otherwise engaged. The family in 1893 abandoned the Halfway House and moved back to Kalihi, Honolulu.” (US Circuit Court of Appeals, 1937)

Later it was noted, “AF (Adelino Ferreira) Franca (a salesman Hawaiian Wine Co) will open the Pali Saloon in the vicinity of the Government Electric Lights to∙morrow morning for the sale of light wines and beer under the now license system. A free lunch will be set and everything will be in first-class style.” (The Independent, November 30, 1898)

And then, “AF Franca announces his Pali resort ready for business. It is half way between Honolulu and the Pali, and will prove a great accommodation to travelers.” (Hawaiian Star, December 1, 1898)

Although advertised as “Light Wines and Beers Served except Sundays,” Franca was “charged with selling on Sunday.” (The Independent, June 17, 1904)

Later, “Judge Geer began the hearing of the case of AF Franca, charged with selling liquor without a license at the Halfway House on the Nuʻuanu Pali road.” Franca was acquitted of the charges by the jury. (Hawaiian Star, September 20, 1904)

The property appears to have had different owners/operators and was identified under several names – Halfway House, Pali, Saloon, Pali Resort.

It was situated near Nuʻuanu Reservoir #2. As far as where that is today – it was about where the Old Pali Road ends (at a fence and gate.) (Old Pali Road and Nuʻuanu Pali Drive generally parallel the Pali Highway.) On Nuʻuanu Pali Drive there is a small hairpin turn with a small waterfall and pool – the way house would have been above that to the left (in the direction of Pali Highway.)

There are four dam-impounded reservoirs in Nuʻuanu Valley. They are numbered from 1 to 4 as one travels mauka. No. 1 is located near the O‘ahu Country Club on the ‘Ewa side of Pali Highway and No. 4 is to the right of the highway (it’s now known as Nuʻuanu Reservoir.)

“The construction of storage reservoirs in Nuʻuanu, and in connection therewith the utilization of the water power for the purpose of lighting the city” was among the topics that the Superintendent of Public Works WE Rowell discussed in his 1890 biennial report to Lorrin A Thurston, Minister of the Interior of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i.

He also said that “two reservoirs have been completed and the third is nearly so. In each case the same general plan of construction is followed viz: a dam of earth compactly rolled.”

“Reservoir No. 1 is located at the Electric Light Works, was completed in August 1889 … capacity of 23,240,000 gallons. Reservoir No. 2, located at the half way bridge, was completed in June, 1889, … with a capacity of about 7,959,000 U.S. gallons (and) Reservoir No. 3 is located about one-fourth mile mauka than No. 2.” (Papacosta)

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Pali_Saloon
Pali_Saloon
Pali_Saloon
Pali_Saloon
Nuuanu Reservoirs 2 & 3 - Halfway House-GoogleEarth
Nuuanu Reservoirs 2 & 3 – Halfway House-GoogleEarth
Nuuanu Reservoirs-GoogleEarth
Nuuanu Reservoirs-GoogleEarth
Pali Resort Ad-Hawaiian Star-Jan_10,_1899
Pali Resort Ad-Hawaiian Star-Jan_10,_1899
Luakaha-Reg0133 (1874)
Luakaha-Reg0133 (1874)

Filed Under: General, Buildings, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Pali, Nuuanu, Pali Saloon, Pali Resort, Halfway House

April 25, 2017 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Timeline Tuesday … 1950s

Today’s ‘Timeline Tuesday’ takes us through the 1950s – Diamond Head opens to the public, the Waikīkī Shell opens, Pan-Am jet service to the Islands and Statehood. We look at what was happening in Hawai‘i during this time period and what else was happening around the rest of the world.

A Comparative Timeline illustrates the events with images and short phrases. This helps us to get a better context on what was happening in Hawai‘i versus the rest of the world. I prepared these a few years ago for a planning project. (Ultimately, they never got used for the project, but I thought they might be on interest to others.)

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Timeline-1950s

Filed Under: Place Names, Prominent People, Economy, General, Buildings Tagged With: Pali Tunnels, Waikiki Shell, Hawaii, H-1, Pali, Pan American, Statehood, Timeline Tuesday, Timeline

March 7, 2017 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Timeline Tuesday … 1890s

Today’s ‘Timeline Tuesday’ takes us through the 1890s – Kapi‘olani Hospital is formed, Kalākaua dies, Overthrow, Annexation, Pali Road is completed and the first Beachboys organization is formed. We look at what was happening in Hawai‘i during this time period and what else was happening around the rest of the world.

A Comparative Timeline illustrates the events with images and short phrases. This helps us to get a better context on what was happening in Hawai‘i versus the rest of the world. I prepared these a few years ago for a planning project. (Ultimately, they never got used for the project, but I thought they might be on interest to others.)

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© 2017 Hoʻokuleana LLC

Timeline-1890s
Timeline-1890s

Filed Under: General, Economy, Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance, Place Names, Prominent People Tagged With: Kalakaua, Camp McKinley, Pali, Annexation, Kapiolani Medical Center, Spanish-American War, Overthrow, Timeline Tuesday, Hawaii, Liliuokalani

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Images of Old Hawaiʻi

People, places, and events in Hawaiʻi’s past come alive through text and media in “Images of Old Hawaiʻi.” These posts are informal historic summaries presented for personal, non-commercial, and educational purposes.

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