Maui | Page 32 | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

July 11, 2016 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Koa House

In 1840, John Joseph Halstead sailed to Hawai‘i on a whaling ship bringing with him from New York carpentry and cabinet-makings skills. He set up a shop in Lāhainā. (Martin) He was said to be the first man to put up a frame house in Lāhainā.

With the news of the discovery of gold in California in 1848, came orders from San Francisco merchants for Irish potatoes and other food supplies for those heading to the gold fields.

Halstead did not join the pioneers of 1849; He moved over to Kalepolepo, along the Kihei shoreline, with his family and shortly thereafter built a new house for himself. (Wilcox)

It was a large Pennsylvania Dutch style house made entirely of koa, built next to the south wall of Koʻieʻie Loko I‘a (fishpond) (also called Kalepolepo Fishpond.)

Halstead’s three story house/store was nicknamed the ‘Koa House.’ With the mullet-filled fishpond, the Koa House became a popular retreat for Hawaiian royalty such as Kamehameha III, IV, V and Lunalilo. (Starr)

No one remembers the actual date of construction of Koa House, but the fact that King Liholiho (Kamehameha IV), visited Kalepolepo on a royal tour immediately after accession to the throne in the fall of 1854, and stayed overnight as the guest of Halstead, its owner, is proof it was built before that time. (Wilcox)

Its timbers were from saw mills in East Makawao and from Kula, partly hewn and whip-sawed by hand Into shape, for labor was cheap In the good old days. Also pine and other material brought around Cape Horn by early traders.

When finished the first floor was fitted up with koa wood counters and shelves, and used for a store. The upper floors were used for living quarters. Many of the larger pieces of furniture were made of koa wood by Halstead himself. (Wilcox)

He opened a trading station on the lower floor. Whalers came ashore to buy fresh produce that was brought in by the farmers via the Kalepolepo Road.

He promoted the Irish potato industry in Kula, which even then was a thriving industry for provisioning whale ships in their seasonal voyages after whales.

At Halstead’s Kalepolepo Store a cartload of potatoes – thirty to forty bags – could readily be exchanged for a bolt of silk or other provisions.

During the Irish potato boom of those days any native farmer with an acre or two of potatoes would sell his crop, and as soon as he received payment in fifty-dollar gold pieces he would hurry off to the nearest store to buy a silk dress for his wife or a broadcloth suit for himself.

Halstead held his share of the Irish potato trade against more promising cash offers made by his business rivals. So lively was the competition that LL Torbert of ʻUlupalakua conceived the idea of an Irish potato corner.

He sent out his men and bought up all the Irish potatoes in sight, paying as high as five dollars for a bag of potatoes, a fabulous price for those days when native labor was plentiful at twenty-five cents a day.

Having cornered all the potatoes to be had, he shipped about $20,000 worth by the bark Josephine for San Francisco. The bark proved leaky, water got into the potato-filled holds and rotted them so that on arrival at San Francisco not enough good potatoes were left in the cargo to pay the freight bill.

At that time Kalepolepo was a thriving village, with two churches, a Mormon church where George Cannon or Walter Murray Gibson expounded the Christian doctrines of Joseph Smith against Christian Calvinism as preached by the Reverend Green and David Malo.

Reportedly, Halstead’s old house at Kalepolepo was Rev Green’s granary during the wheat boom of the 1850s and early-1860s, when the upper Makawao country from Maliko to Waiohuli was cropped to wheat.

Possibly some wheat may have been shipped from Kalepolepo in those days, for from early times to the late-1860s it was a shipping port for Wailuku and Kula. Halstead had one or two big warehouses standing makai of his residence.

In the late sixties the Irish potato trade had become unimportant and later ceased altogether. In 1876, Halstead closed his store and moved to ʻUlupalakua, where he died eleven years later, May 3, 1887. (Wilcox)

The koa house remained standing until it was burned down in 1946 by the Kihei Yacht Club. (NPS) (Lots of information here is from NPS and Wilcox.)

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John Joseph Halstead-Koa House-Paradise of the Pacific-1921

Kihei Coastline-Kalepolepo-Pepalis

Koieie_Fishpond-NPS

Koieie-Fishpond-NPS

Uwaikikilani Halstead-Stanley-Hassrick-1849

Uwaikikilani Halstead-Stanley-Hassrick

John Joseph Halstead-gravestone

June 17, 2016 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Maui Grand Hotel

“Those Honeymoon Isles are getting all sorts of publicity these days, says last Sunday’s Bystander … ‘The Valley Isle’ and Wailuku city of 30,000, a hundred miles or a half-day by boat from O‘ahu Island, and the gateway to the colossus extinct crater, ‘Haleakala,’ will step into the tourist limelight this season with the lure of the new Grand Hotel …”

“… a Wailuku Clift – snow white, solid and beautiful, with every San Francisco fad and fancy of comfort, convenience and service, and a capacity for 100 patrons.”

“General manager AJ de Souza of the Grand Hotel Company has just returned to the Maui Wailuku following a month at the Fielding, San Francisco, buying the equipment, engaging a manager Frederick McDonald and “planting” the Pacific Slope with patronage publicity.” (Maui News, October 6, 1916)

“General manager de Souza said that the new Grand will be the Maui ‘Mecca’ this season with its California high-type hotel accommodations, the want of which has until now decimated tourist travel to the deep and dead Vesuvius, whose dimensions are incomprehensible and its depth bottomless and unknown.”

“Thus Maui, Wailuku, the new Grand Hotel and the bottomless Haleakala will this season and henceforth vie and rank with Oahu, Honolulu.”

“Waikiki Beach and their horde of hotels in the eye and appetite of the rich and multiplying America winter and summer tourist, indefinitely barred out of Europe.”

“The Maui ‘Mecca’ Wailuku and the new Grand will soon bid Western Hotels and Travel fans to the added development of the ‘Hawaiian’ paradise.” (Maui News, October 6, 1916) Folks also learned, “The Grand hotel is going to work in conjunction with the St Francis of San Francisco.” (Star Bulletin, September 23, 1916)

The early hype helped, but shortly after, the hotel was in bankruptcy proceedings, “it is quite true that the Grand Hotel company is involved and unable to pay its debts”. (Star Bulletin, July 21, 1917)

Associated litigation suggested “Rumors are flying thick and fast as to the nature of the probable adjustment of the case. One theory is to the effect that the Grand will be purchased and turned into a Japanese hospital. This is more or less of an old story, but is probably one of the plans upon which those interested are working.” (Maui News, September 28, 1917)

The hotel, the largest hotel on Maui until after World War II, later ended up under the operation of William H Field and his Maui Hotel Company. “Mr. Field built and opened the Maui Hotel 21 years ago which at that time was considered far in advance of Maul’s needs for years to come.”

“Later he built additions and enlarged the Maui into the present building. Three years ago he formed the idea of securing a string of hotels on Maui and leased from George Freeland the Pioneer Hotel at Lahaina, the West Maui port being considered the main gateway to Maui for tourists and traveling men, and he conducted the two hotels under his one management.”

“To these he added the Grand Hotel two years ago and conducted the three under one management. Finding it unnecessary to conduct two dining rooms he closed the one in the Maui Hotel and used that building as an annex or for room accommodations only for guests who took their meals at the Grand.” (Maui News, January 6, 1922)

Later, EJ Walsh owned the Maui Grand Hotel. Walsh was “one of the big wheels for Kahului Railroad”. He also “ran the observation station in Haleakala.” Back then (the 1930s and 40s,) Haleakala was not a national park. It was run privately. (Haleakala National Park was established in 1961.) (Kaneshiro)

Walsh began furnishing meals and other services for visitors at Haleakala in 1936, becoming the first concessioner in this section of the park. (NPS)

One famous Grand guest was Georgia O’Keeffe; she was in the Islands to submit two paintings for a Dole Pineapple ad campaign. More than six months after her arrival in Hawaiʻi, O’Keeffe had produced 20-paintings, not one included a pineapple and she subsequently “submitted depictions of a papaya tree and the spiky blossom of a lobster’s claw heliconia” for the Dole ads.

“This little hotel is very good – the Japanese boy carries my things up and down stairs for me – There is a Danish man (Harold Stein) who has charge of recreational work for the island who treats me as if I am his own special guest – It makes things easy”. (Georgia O’Keeffe, March 25, 1939; Saville)

The large two-story wooden structure stood on Wailuku’s Main Street; cars drove into the hotel’s semi-circle driveway and it was the center of social life and fine dining into the 1960s. (Tsuchiyama) In 1961, The Maui Grand Hotel closed and was demolished for a service station (the site of the Chevron at Main and Church.)

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Maui Grand Hotel-PP-41-8-039-1937

Grand Hotel-Wailuku

Maui Grand Hotel

June 7, 2016 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Irrigation-enhanced Recharge

The early Polynesians brought sugar cane with them and demonstrated that it could be grown successfully in the islands. The first commercially-viable sugar plantation, Ladd and Co, was started at Kōloa on Kauai in 1835. Others followed, including on Maui.

Sugar became part of the Maui landscape. More than 30-plantations of various sizes popped up on Maui. Over time, consolidations and closures gradually reduced the number to fewer, but larger, plantations. (Sugar Museum)

Sugar is a thirsty crop; in order to irrigate, in 1876 the initial Hāmākua Ditch was built, bringing water from streams from the windward and wet East Maui. A total of ten ditches were constructed between 1879 and 1923; this system makes up what is known today as East Maui Irrigation (EMI.)

Under natural conditions, most surface water would flow to the ocean; instead, this water has been diverted and artificially applied to the plant-soil system, creating a net increase in ground-water recharge. Irrigation-enhanced recharge greatly affects the groundwater system in central Maui.

Ground water is one of Hawai‘i’s most important natural resources. It is used for drinking water, irrigation, and domestic, commercial, and industrial needs. Ground water provides about 99% of Hawai‘i’s domestic water and about 50% of all freshwater used in the State.

The amount of recharge available to enter the aquifers is the volume of rainfall, fog drip, and irrigation water that is not lost to runoff or evapotranspiration or stored in the soil. (USGS)

The period 1926–79 had the highest estimated recharge; irrigation rates during this period were at least 50% higher than in any other period considered.

Prior to the early-1970s, about 190-million gallons per day (Mgal/d) of water diverted by East Maui ditches and 170-Mgal/d of groundwater withdrawn from shafts and wells was used to irrigate sugarcane fields in central Maui.

Groundwater recharge concerns have gone from bad to worse. Overall irrigation rates have been steadily decreasing since the 1970s, when large-scale sugarcane plantations began a conversion from furrow to more efficient drip irrigation methods and a reduction in the amount of acreage dedicated to sugarcane production.

Estimated recharge for central and west Maui declined 44% during the period 1979–2004. During this period, on the leeward (Lāhainā) side of West Maui Mountain, sugarcane cultivation ceased altogether.

The decrease in irrigation has coincided recently with periods of below-average rainfall, creating the potential for substantially reduced recharge rates in many areas. (USGS)

The period 2000–04 had the lowest estimated recharge; irrigation rates during this period were 46 percent lower than during 1926–79, and rainfall was the lowest of any period.

With the closure of HC&S’ sugarcane fields in central Maui, and subsequent stoppage of irrigation over the groundwater aquifer, recharge will be reduced and the groundwater flow system will be affected. (USGS)

Population growth on the Island of Maui has led to an increase in ground-water demand. The resident population on the island increased more than 300% percent during the period 1960–2010: from 35,717 to 144,444 (Maui County)

The ‘Ïao aquifer system is the principal source of domestic water supply for the Island of Maui. Ground-water withdrawals from this aquifer system increased from less than 10-Mgal/d during 1970 to about 17-Mgal/d during 2005.

So, there is concern surrounding declines in ground-water levels and an increase in the chloride concentration of water pumped from wells in the ‘Ïao aquifer system.

Even before the contemplated, and later announced, closure of HC&S sugar cultivation, the State Water Commission designated ‘Īao as a groundwater management area because the 12-month moving average pumping withdrawals exceeded the Commission-established trigger.

The effect of changes in irrigation-enhanced recharge was illustrated on a small scale in Wailua on Kauai, and the drying up of ‘Fern Grotto’ was the result. There, the Kapa‘a irrigation system was built in the 1920s to provide water for approximately 6,000 acres of land under sugar cane.

Up until the sugar company closing, the lower portion has been fed by the Hanamaulu Ditch, which ended at ‘Reservoir 21,’ directly above Fern Grotto. The ferns began growing only after sugar was grown on the land 150 feet above the cave.

Plantation workers built a catch basin for storm runoff that became known as Reservoir 21. Water from the reservoir percolated through the ground and came out on the roof and walls of the cave.

The shutting down of the Hanamaulu Ditch has undoubtedly contributed or even was the principal cause of the drying up on the Fern Grotto. The lack of irrigation water caused the cliff-side ferns to dry up.

A 9-month rejuvenation project involved creation of a second waterfall in the grotto and installation of solar panels to power pumps to bring water from the Wailua Reservoir to the Fern Grotto.

Now, the Fern Grotto is back. Solutions in the central Maui isthmus, the principal source of domestic water supply for the Island of Maui, are not as simple.

A century after Captain James Cook’s arrival in Hawaiʻi, sugar plantations started to dominate the landscape. Sugar changed the social fabric of Hawaii. Hawai`i’s economy turned toward sugar in the decades between 1860 and 1880.

The industry came to maturity by the turn of the century; the industry peaked in the 1930s. Hawaiʻi’s sugar plantations employed more than 50,000 workers and produced more than 1-million tons of sugar a year; over 254,500-acres were planted in sugar. (That plummeted to 492,000-tons in 1995; a majority of the plantations closed in the 1990s.)

So, the Islands have not just lost that last remnant of generations of economic and agricultural activity; Maui must now look at ways to manage and provide for water needs and demands, given the loss of irrigation-enhanced recharge. (Lots of information here is from several USGS reports.)

I was fortunate to have served as the Chair and Director of the Department of Land and Natural Resources and the Chair of the Water Commission, working on these and other related issues.

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maui-sugar-cane-ron-dahlquist

Central Maui Isthmus-sugarcane

EMI_System-map

EMI_Intake

EMI-Ditch

Installation of a pipeline for Haiku ditch water under the steel railroad bridge crossing the Maliko Gulch-1909

Iao Aquifer-Ditches-USGS

Fern Grotto

May 18, 2016 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Alexander House Settlement

The Hawaiian settlement house movement was a smaller version of the American movement best represented by Chicago’s Hull House. Staffed by members of the middle class, these institutions sought to help immigrant families adapt to the language and customs of their new country.

The word ‘settlement’ had connotations of the frontier middle-class ‘settling’ in the inner city. Settlement houses in Hawai‘i and the US offered educational services, staged community events, build libraries and in general tried to enhance the lives of their neighborhoods.

Behind the settlement house effort was the progressive belief in the importance of social cohesion, the belief that individuals are not autonomous but part of a web of social relationships and that welfare of any single person is dependent on the welfare of society as a whole. (Castle)

“The ‘Settlement’ as developed both in England and the United States is concerned with the social and moral well-being of its community in both concrete and spiritual form.”

“But since its field is among people of many races and creeds and of widely different economic standing it cannot restrict itself by adhering to any channel of dogma or belief which represents only a portion of the community. Like any rule this one has its exceptions, but that is the general principle upon which a Settlement must work if it wishes to be a community organization.”

“The Settlement field is that of applied social science; what we might call the firing line of our social, political, and economic theory.”

“This field always represents the frontier between the great body of theory and principle and the great body of condition and fact – applying, adapting and proving or disproving the one to the other by concrete expression. That is the field and the fundamental principle adopted by the Alexander House Settlement.” (The Friend, December 1922)

The precursor of the Alexander House Settlement was a Chinese Mission located in Wailuku to which Miss Charlotte L Turner came to take charge in 1893.

After seven years of this work Miss Turner and Miss NG Malone, also formerly a mission worker on Maui, were on a vacation in the East and while visiting ‘Settlements’ in Chicago, New York and Boston conceived the idea of establishing a settlement on Maui. Both returned to Wailuku and went to work to put this idea into concrete form.

These two finally secured contributions enough to start building and also secured the land upon which to build. The land, about two acres, was deeded by the “Directors of the Wailuku Sugar Co. to the Hawaiian Board of Missions for Educational, and Christian work only,” reversion to the Sugar Company when no longer so used being a part of the deed.

In 1900 work was begun. No stone was left unturned to help along in the good work. Prison labor was given by the county. Even the Mission workers (Miss Turner and her assistants), literally “by the sweat of their brows” with hoes and other implements did a share of the work. (The Friend, December 1922)

The first building erected was known as the “Settlement Building” and was situated on the corner of Main and Market streets. It was completed and opened in 1900, its main use being for a kindergarten.

The name “Alexander House Settlement” was chosen as Miss Turner says because “It was customary to name them (settlements) after the men and women whose lives had been consecrated to the uplift of humanity, hence, the name ‘Alexander House’ after ‘William and Mary Alexander’ the influence of whose lives is still felt on Maui, and throughout the Islands and whose names we love to honor.”

The settlement house should not be confused with the former Alexander home of missionaries William and Mary Alexander farther up Main Street in Wailuku.

After the Settlement began functioning, it was found necessary to build a residence for the workers and the present residence was erected in 1901. In 1909 they added a gymnasium and swimming tank (pool) and bowling alley.

A reading room was finally opened, papers were subscribed, books were donated and finally a Library Association was formed which enlarged the library and each year raised enough money to keep the “Library” open at stated hours afternoons and evenings. From this effort has grown the Maui County Free Public Library.

In 1916 land was also acquired on which to build a tennis court; later a second court was constructed and then four more. In 1919, a new field, or rather a new organization of its field of endeavor, gave the Settlement a much larger scope.

At this time the plantations entered into an agreement whereby their welfare work was put under the general supervision of the Settlement. (The Friend, December 1922)

The Alexander Settlement served as the address of the Maui Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) recruitment office from 1934 to 1941; the CCC later changed to the “TH Employment Service, Wailuku, Maui.”

Throughout the years of its existence, Alexander House hosted concerts, parties and entertainments as fundraising events. Community outreach programs in health care and physical education were developed by Alexander House and the complex housed the Chamber of Commerce, the Red Cross, Community Chest and other public service groups.

Later, the Alexander House Settlement’s kindergarten and land was transformed into a United Service Organization (USO.) By 1950, Alexander House closed its doors and was replaced by the National Dollar Store and by American Security bank. (Later the corner bank site was redeveloped as an office building.)

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Alexander House Settlement

Alexander House, Kindergarten Class, Wailuku, 1903

Alexander House_Settlement

Alexander House

Alexander House Settlement-Sewing Class-1903

Alexander House Settlement-Kindergarten group-1903

Alexander House Settlement-Japanese Kindergarten group-1903

Alexander House Wailuku

Alexander House-Wailuku

Alexander House Settlement-Workers House-1903

Alexander House Settlement Church-Maui News

National Dollar Store 1960

April 22, 2016 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Kahului Harbor

Before European contact, ‘Iao Stream served to irrigate lo’i in terraces that extended well up into ‘Iao Valley. Nearby is Kanaha Fishpond, which is said to have been built by Chief Kiha-Piʻilani, son of Piʻilani and brother-in-law of ʻUmi, (in about the 16th century.)

After contact, the port and town of Lāhainā was the first trading location to become established on Maui. As early as 1819, whaling lured thousands of sailors to Lāhainā. Meanwhile, even by 1837, Kahului was described as a settlement of 26-pili grass houses.

During King Kamehameha’s campaign to unify the Hawaiian Islands, the principal military encounter on Maui took place within Kahului Bay. For two days, there was constant fighting between the two sides until Kamehameha conquered them with the help of the western military expertise and firearms of his western advisors, John Young and Isaac Davis.

It was a bloody battle and by the time it was over, the beach between Kahului and Pāʻia was covered with the canoes and bodies of fallen warriors.

With the success of the first oil wells in Titusville, Pennsylvania, the whaling trade began to decline in the 1860s. It was about at this time when Maui turned to the emerging sugar industry to fill its economic void.

The isthmus between Haleakala and West Maui contained rich soils ideal for crop cultivation. Within a few short years, the region soon supported one of the largest sugar plantations in the world.

In 1876, following the Reciprocity Treaty, other Westerners gained interest in Maui’s agriculture potential, including Claus Spreckels (who came to Hawaiʻi from San Francisco.)

Spreckels leased land from the government and obtained the water rights needed to build a large irrigation ditch that provided water for crops. These events set the stage for the establishment of Maui’s first railroad system.

Rail transported cane from the fields to the harbor. Passenger cars were added to the rail system and in 1879 Thomas Hobron founded the Kahului Railroad Company, the first railroad in Hawaiʻi that provided passenger service between the population centers at Wailuku and Kahului Harbor.

Early development at Kahului Bay started in 1863 with the construction of the first western building, a warehouse near the beach.

In 1879, to facilitate the loading and unloading of goods and passengers, the first small landing was constructed in Kahului Bay. By the turn of the 19th century, Kahului supported a new customhouse, a saloon, a Chinese restaurant, and a small but growing population. (DOT)

When Bubonic Plague was noted in Kahului on February 10, 1900, “we found that the inhabitants of Chinatown, where the disease was discovered, had been moved to a detention camp some distance from the town, Chinatown destroyed by fire”. (Carmichael) The rebuilding of Kahului town coincided with the evolution of Kahului Bay into a full-scale commercial harbor. (Noda; DOT)

Kahului Commercial Harbor is a man-made port, dredged from naturally occurring Kahului Bay. As a harbor, its chief advantage was a narrow break in the coral caused by the fresh water from the Waikapu River, which emptied into Kahului Bay at one time. The break allowed ships to anchor inside the protecting reef.

The anchorage was less than ideal. It was exposed to the full force of the trade winds, there was very little deep water and a heavy surge as well. The harbor has a long history of development, including construction of breakwaters and harbor dredging dating back to the early 1900s. (DOT)

The development of the harbor began in earnest under the leadership of Henry Baldwin. During this time, the railroad and harbor depended on each other to provide service to the merchants and the sugar cane plantations. (Noda; DOT)

The harbor complex originated in 1900 when a 400-foot long east breakwater was constructed by the Kahului Railroad Company.

In 1901, the rail company purchased its first tugboat, the Leslie Baldwin, to tow lighters to and from vessels. Harbor development was initiated three-years later by Kahului Railroad Company, who was at the time a subsidiary of Hawaiian Commercial and Sugar Company.

“(T)he growing commercial importance of Kahului Harbor, a seaport of this Territory, in the Island of Maui, demands that adequate facilities be provided for the proper handling of freight and passenger traffic under government supervision and control”.

The Territorial Senate then addressed a Resolution, asking “That the sum of $100,000.00 be inserted in the Appropriation Bill for the purpose of defraying all costs incidental and necessary to condemn the new Claudine Wharf and moorings in Kahului Harbor, Maui, now owned and controlled by the Kahului Railroad Company, Limited”

“… whereby said wharf and moorings shall become the property of the Territory of Hawaiʻi; and also to construct a new wharf in said harbor at which large vessels may dock and load or discharge freight and passengers.” Wm T Robinson, Senator 2nd District; February 23, 1911.

Pier 1 was initially 500-feet in length and was constructed between 1921 and 1924, along with a pier shed that was 374 feet long. Subsequent construction lengthened Pier 1 to 929-feet.

The first 627-feet of Pier 2 was constructed in 1927 at the location of the old “Claudine Wharf,” and extended in 1929 by 894-feet.

The first involvement of the Army Corps of Engineers with the project came in 1913 when the east breakwater was extended 400-feet. The west breakwater was constructed to 1,950-feet in 1919, and the structures were extended to their current lengths in 1931. (DOT)

The harbor basin has been widened and deepened at various times to reduce navigational hazards due to increased traffic within the harbor and to accommodate larger vessels.

Kahului Harbor is one of nine commercial harbors (seven deep-draft and two medium-draft) found throughout the state. Because of Hawaiʻi’s geographic isolation, nearly all of its imported goods arrive via island ports.

Honolulu Harbor serves as the hub of Hawaiʻi’s commercial harbor system from where inter-island cargo distribution branches out to serve the neighbor islands. (Lots of information here is from Hawaiʻi DOT Harbors Master Plan.)

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