Kaiwi | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

July 10, 2023 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

David Manuia

Abner Paki “appears in the genealogy of the Chiefs of this Nation, from ancient times, and he is a high Chief of this land descended from Haloa, that being the one father of the children living in this world, and the father of our people.”

“Part of his genealogy is taken from the High Chiefs of the land, and he is part of Kamehameha’s, and he is part of Kiwalao’s, and he is a hereditary chief of a single line from ancient times; and he was a father who rescued from trouble his people of this nation from Hawaii to Kauai.” (Nupepa Kuakoa, Elele E, 6/16/1855, p. 20

He was “the last of the family of old high chiefs. … His father’s name was Kalanihelemaiiluna, and his mother’s Kahooheiheipahu. He was born [at Kainalu] on the island Molokai, in the year ‘Ualakaa,’ [“that being when Kamehameha was farming at Ualakaa” [Round Top above Manoa Valley], Nupepa Kuakoa, Ka Elele E, Buke 10, Aoao 20. Iune 16, 1855].

“He was an intimate friend of the King [Kamehameha III], and was a person of considerable weight and importance in the affairs of the nation. He held during his life, some high offices of trust and honor; being at different times, one of the judges of the Supreme Court, acting Governor, Privy Councillor, member of the House of Nobles, and Chamberlain to the King.”

“The most prominent feature in his character was firmness; where he took a stand, he was immovable. On the death of Kamehameha III, he prophesied that he should survive his Royal master but a few months, though he was in usual health at the time.”

Kamehameha III died December 15, 1854; Paki died June 13, 1855. Paki’s “wife Konia, (also a high chief,) who survived him two years, she dying in 1857.” (Bennett, 1871)

Paki and Konia were the parents of Bernice Pauahi Paki Pākī (born December 19, 1831). “Paki and Kona must have been a striking contrast. Pali was 6 feet 4 inched in height. He had massive arms and legs, a handsome body and the lithness of a good athlete. Konia was short, had a quick, intelligent face ad was frankly fat. She was noted for her sweet disposition.”

“Kalani [princess] Pauahi, the little high chiefess, did not remain long with her mother Konia. She was adopted Hawaiian style by the High Chiefess Kīna‘u. … Kīna‘u … had three sons – Moses, Lot and Alexander Liholiho. She yearned for a daughter, so she took the child of Konia out of her own mother’s arms and reared her for 8 years.” (Clarice Taylor)

High Chief Caesar Kapaʻakea and his wife High Chiefess Analeʻa Keohokālole had several children, including future King David Kalakaua (born (November 16, 1836)) and Lydia Liliʻu Kamakaʻeha (future Queen Lili‘uokalani) (born September 2, 1838).

As was the custom, Liliʻu was hānai (adopted) to the Pākīs, who reared her with their birth daughter, Pauahi. The Pauahi and Lili‘u developed a close, loving relationship.

As Lili‘uokalani noted, “When I was taken from my own parents and adopted by Paki and Konia, or about two months thereafter, a child was born to Kīna‘u. That little babe was the Princess Victoria [born November 1, 1838], two of whose brothers became sovereigns of the Hawaiian people [Kamehameha IV and V].”

“While the infant was at its mother’s breast, Kīna‘u always preferred to take me into her arms to nurse, and would hand her own child to the woman attendant who was there for that purpose.”

“I knew no other father or mother than my foster-parents, no other sister than Bernice. I used to climb up on the knees of Paki, put my arms around his neck, kiss him, and he caressed me as a father would his child …”

“… while on the contrary, when I met my own parents, it was with perhaps more of interest, yet always with the demeanor I would have shown to any strangers who noticed me.”

“My own father and mother had other children, ten in all, the most of them being adopted into other chiefs’ families; and although I knew that these were my own brothers and sisters, yet we met throughout my younger life as though we had not known our common parentage. This was, and indeed is, in accordance with Hawaiian customs.” (Lili‘uokalani)

But there seems to be another child associated with Paki.

A portion of the program for the Dedication of Paki Hall at Kamehameha School for Boys (1960) noted, “While a young man living in Kohala, Paki married Ka-iwi and to them was born David Manuia.”

“Manuia’s granddaughter, Laika, was the mother of Jonah Kumalae, known to kamaainas as the editor of the Hawaiian newspaper Ke Alakai o Hawaii.”

“Mr. Kumalae’s grandson, Richard Among, who was graduated from The School for Boys in the class of 1951, is the only known descendant of High Chief Paki to have attended The Kamehameha Schools. [Richard Awong was in attendance and was introduced at the dedication event.]”

“Richard and other progeny of Paki living in Honolulu observe the tradition of chiefly modesty, and few people are aware of their illustrious ancestry.”

“After the death of his wife in Kohala, Paki married Laura Kana-holo Konia, granddaughter of Kamehameha the Great and daughter of the Conqueror’s first-born son, Ka-o-lei-o-ku.”

“Bernice Pauahi, daughter of Paki and Konia and beloved benefactress of The Kamehameha Schools, was a chiefess of the highest rank.” (Program narrative at dedication of Paki Hall at Kamehameha School for Boys, Nov 4, 1960)

However, if you do the math, Paki was “the last of the family of old high chiefs. … He was born on the island Molokai, in the year ‘Ualakaa’ [“that being when Kamehameha was farming at Ualakaa”, Nupepa Kuakoa, Ka Elele E, Buke 10, Aoao 20. Iune 16, 1855].” (Bennett, 1871)

Kamehameha was farming sweet potatoes at Ualakaa between 1808 and 1812 0 so Paki would have been born sometime in that range.

The challenge is Clarice Taylor says David Manuia “was born in 1810 at Puakawau, North Kohala”. This reference is likely from an obituary statement in the newspaper by Mrs LK Keliaa, the daughter of Manuia, who gave that birth year.

Keliaa stated, “He was born in Piiakawau, North Kohala, Hawaii, in AD 1810, born to Paki k. and Kaiwi w., five of them, three males, two females, but he was taken away by the his children died and only one was left alive, until he found this M.H. 1889, and at 2 o’clock in the morning on Friday the 11th of this month, his life was called by the Almighty, and he took it away.”

“In M. H. 1836. He entered the Lahainaluna College, and for several years, he graduated with the approval of his teachers, and returned to his native land, and after a while, he found public offices from the government, that is, Teacher, Headmaster, Tax Officer, Police Officer, Judge, and a Marriage License Officer.”

“His job, however, continued as the school principal, until he left Hawaii in March 1870 for Honolulu, Oahu, where he stayed until his death.”

“He is married to a woman, and they have one child, DM. Puna Manuia, and the woman died, and a long time later, he remarried the woman, they lived and had one more child and in AD 1853, the second woman died, and He remained celibate until he passed away.”

“D. Manuia is one of the oldest brothers of the Kohala, and was also a church leader of that place until he moved to Oahu, and in that Christian position he lived, and he is also one of the strong support of the works of the Lord in Kawaiahao which is being held by the father Rev HH Parker, and it was nothing to him for long periods under the works of the Lord.”

“He was 79 years old in this world … was a kind man, and he was a welcomer to the guests who visited his home, until his death.” (Ka Nupepa Kuokoa, Bishop Museum Archives)

So, it is a mystery how Paki (apparently born in the year ‘Ualakaa’, 1808-1812) could be the father of Manuia (apparently born 1810), but there are definitive statements made by Kamehameha Schools, Clarice Taylor and the obituary that he is.

March 15, 2023 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Ka Iwi

The winds will turn before you and find you,
You’ll be overwhelmed, O deaf aliʻi,
The winds will gather,
The naʻenaʻe leaves will bend,
You’ll be swept ashore at Awāwamalu.
Caught in the fishing net of the head fisherman,
Your thigh bone and upper-arm bone
Will be made into fishhooks,
To catch the paoʻo and the ʻopakapaka,
Your flesh will be without bones,
The black crab, the shearwater will eat your remains,
The life from the parents will be broken off.
Here I am, the ʻaumakua kanaka,
Listen to my life-giving words,
Keawenuiaʻumi, come ashore, a storm is coming,
When you sailed yesterday, it was calm.
(Excerpt from The Wind Gourd of Laʻamaomao – (hawaii-edu))

Wāwāmalu or Awāwamalu (“Shady Gulch or Valley” – referenced above,) was on the Waimānalo side of the Ka Iwi Coastline, (known today as “Sandy Beach.”) Corpses of fisherman and sailors who drowned in the Kaiwi channel were swept ashore by the currents there and at other spots along the southeast coast of Oʻahu, like Hanauma Bay. (Ka Poʻe Kahiko 76; hawaii-edu)

The meanings of the two core words are: ka (the) and iwi (bone.) This is the literal meaning of the word iwi, but we can be sure that there is also a deeper meaning, for bones of ancestors were very sacred; it was in the bones that mana (supernatural power) was believed to have been stored and that it remained in the bones even after death. (Marion Kelly)

This coastline is called Ka Iwi; it fronts Ka Iwi Channel. It may have been named for the bones of lost travelers who failed to make the crossing between Molokai and Oʻahu.

Others suggest it may be because the raw, wild, volcanic landscape of the area, rising from the sea, reminded the ancients of the exposed bones of the earth.

The ancient Hawaiians paddled the channel waters in their canoes for food, recreation, trade, communication and military purposes. The rich history of the islands is full of accounts of mythical demigods and real-life heroes testing their skills on the oceans. Control of Hawaiʻi’s channel waterways was an important part of Hawaiian society. This importance is reflected today in modern Hawaiʻi’s claim to state ownership of interisland waters (Hawaiʻi State Constitution, Article XV). (NOAA)

Control of the interisland waterways was an extension of domination of the land by the aliʻi. The “nature of the dominion exercised over a channel lying between two portions of a multi-island unit was based on Polynesian rather than Western concepts.” The Polynesians view the surrounding waters as part of the land. Control of the ocean by Hawaiians was implicit in the control of the islands themselves. (NOAA)

Kaiwi is known for the Kualau or Kuakualau – the strong wind and the rain out in the ocean. It is customary for it to blow in the evening and in the morning but sometimes blow at all times. “Where are you, O Kualau, Your rain goes about at sea.” (McGregor)

Wind speeds decrease in the lee of each island; whereas winds in the channel increase in strength. The area out in the channel is subject to heavy, gusty trade winds.

These winds had an effect on the waters in the channel; “… the ship turned toward Lae-o-ka-laau. As we went on the Kualau breeze of Kaiwi blew wildly, and many people were bent over with seasickness”. (Ku Okoa, 1922; Maly)

In Hawaiian tradition, Lāʻau Point on Molokai represents a point of no return. For those traveling by canoe from Oʻahu to Molokai across the Kaiwi Channel, once Lāʻau Point is sighted, there is no turning back to Oʻahu.

More commonly known today as the Molokai Channel, the Kaiwi Channel separates the islands of Molokai and Oʻahu; it has the reputation as one of the world’s most treacherous bodies of water.

The channel is about the length of a marathon (26.2-miles) but it’s a body of water; annually, swimmers, paddlers and others seek to cross its span as an individual achievement, or the glory of participating/winning a race.

In 1939, William K Pai is reportedly the first person to swim the Kaiwi Channel, from ʻIlio Point on Molokai to the Blowhole near Oʻahu’s Sandy Beach (because he first paddled a little offshore before swimming, it was ‘uncertified.’) Since then, several others have tried and succeeded.

On October 12, 1952, three Koa outrigger canoes launched from Molokai’s west side; nearly nine hours later, Kukui O Lanikaula landed on the beach at Waikīkī in front of the Moana Hotel. Thus began the world’s most prestigious outrigger canoe race, the Molokaʻi Hoe. Two years later, the women’s Na Wahine O Ke Kai, Molokai to Oʻahu Canoe Race, was inaugurated.

We are reminded of the hazards and risks crossing Kaiwi Channel, when on March 16, 1978, Hokuleʻa left Ala Wai Harbor in Honolulu on a voyage to Tahiti. According to the Coast Guard report, the canoe left O‘ahu in 30-knot trade winds, with clear skies, 6-8 foot seas from the NNE, and 8-10 foot swells from the NE. (PVS)

“Swells were high, but the canoe had ridden out such seas before. However, this time it was heavily laden with food and supplies for a month’s journey. The added weight put unusual stress on the canoe, making it difficult to handle.”

“Turning off-wind eased the strain but it also caused the sea to wash in over the gunwales, filling the starboard compartments and depressing the lee hull. Winds pushing on the sails rotated the lighter windward hull around the submerged lee hull, now dead in the water.”

“Five hours after leaving Ala Wai Harbor, Hokule‘a was upside-down in the sea between O‘ahu and Molokai.” (Will Kyselka, An Ocean in Mind; PVS)

“All that night (sixteen crew members) clung to the hulls of the stricken vessel, huddling to protect themselves as best they could from wind and wave. Daylight came. Airplanes flew overhead but no one saw Hokuleʻa. …. Most alarming, though, was the fact that the canoe was drifting away from airline routes, decreasing its chance of being spotted.” (Will Kyselka, An Ocean in Mind; PVS)

“Eddie Aikau wanted to go for help.”

“An expert waterman, he had saved the lives of many swimmers in trouble in the powerful surf of Waimea Bay on the north shore of O‘ahu. … Eddie would go alone.”

“The crew, clinging to the overturned hulls, watch(ed) in silence as he rode the waves into a fate not unknown to many of the people of old who sailed toward distant lands.” (Will Kyselka, An Ocean in Mind; PVS)

In the early morning of March 18, 1978, the Coast Guard arrived to assist the Hokuleʻa; later that day, they sighted Aikau’s surfboard. Eddie was never seen again.

October 9, 2016 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Illinois Brigade

American Fur Company, founded by John Jacob Astor in 1808, would become one of the largest businesses in the country at the start of the 19th century.

Astor planned the post to grow into a permanent settlement, with plans to develop a large trade ring that included New York, the Pacific Coast, Russian Alaska, Hawaiʻi and China. The furs collected in the northwest and Alaska, would be shipped to China and exchanged for porcelain, silk and other cloth, and spices that would be brought back, via Hawaii to New York.

Initially, Astor’s operation in the Columbia River Valley of Oregon was under a subsidiary called the Pacific Fur Company and his Great Lakes efforts were under another subsidiary – the South West Company.

Astor began this ambitious venture to compete with the two great fur-trading companies in Canada – the Hudson’s Bay Company and the North West Company.

As early as 1811, Hudson’s Bay Company had already hired twelve Hawaiians on three year contracts to work for them in the Pacific Northwest. That year John Jacob Astor built Fort Astoria, it was later sold to the North West Company.

However, the War of 1812 destroyed both companies. Five years later, in 1817, Congress passed an act which excluded foreign traders from US territory, making the American Fur Company the biggest in the Great Lakes region.

The Illinois Brigade was one of several trading expeditions sent out annually, between about 1816 and 1827, by the American Fur Company from its headquarters at Mackinac, at the confluence of Lakes Michigan and Huron, in Michigan Territory.

The brigade, usually numbering ten or twelve native canoes, as well as shallow-draft, flat-bottomed boats (bateau,) loaded with trade goods, made its way down Lake Michigan and through the Chicago portage and Des Plaines River to the Illinois River.

There it divided into small parties that spent the winter bartering with the Indians for furs. In the spring the brigade reassembled and returned by water to Mackinac. In 1828 the American Fur Company sold its Illinois interests to Gurdon S Hubbard, the brigade’s commander. (Gale Group)

Wait … this is about another Illinois Brigade – they’re from this area (around Chicago,) but rather than canoes familiar to that region, this Illinois Brigade paddles Hawaiian outrigger canoes.

Among the more than 260 canoe clubs that have participated in the Molokai Hoe are crews from the Hawaiian islands of Oʻahu, Hawaiʻi, Maui, Molokai, Lānaʻi and Kauai; and, from several parts of California, from the states of Oregon, Arkansas, Illinois, Pennsylvania, New York and Virginia, and from several areas across Canada.

In the Pacific, clubs from several coasts of Australia have participated; and from New Zealand, New Caledonia, Japan, Hong Kong, the Kingdom of Tonga, Johnston Island; many from Tahiti and other islands of French Polynesia; and from Europe, crews from England, Germany, Slovakia, and Hungary have raced across the Molokai Channel. (Molokai Canoe Race)

Folks from the Chicago area got their start when Don Alberta, then a 51-year old pilot for American Airlines, and avid canoeist, was vacationing in Hawaii when he met Herman Clark (whose father Herman was a guard for the Bears in the 1950s.)

Clark invited him to paddle with him and afterwards challenged Alberta to get up a team and race. That he did, finishing 14th in 1981 and 10th in 1984, all the while using an old practice boat. (Chicago Tribune)

Then, in 1985 at Bankoh Molokai Hoe 34, on Sunday, October 13, 1985, 48 canoes, 13-koa, 35 fiberglass started the race, all finished.

The Illinois Brigade was the first team from a landlocked part of the world to win the Molokai Hoe, which began in 1952 and covers just over 40 miles from Molokai to Oʻahu. (Chicago Tribune)

First, in the fiberglass division was the Illinois Brigade-1 (Chicago) (Serge Corbin, Joe Johnson, Jay Mittman, Bruce Barton, Al Rudquist, Kurt Doberstein, Ed Crozier, Tim Triebold, Mike Fries) in the time of 5:33:04. (Molokai Canoe Race)

“That blew their minds,” says Alberta, explaining that teams far more accustomed to the water conditions couldn‘t keep pace. “They mystified the Hawaiians,” said restaurateur Nick Nickolas. (Chicago Tribune)

The Molokai Hoe has become one of the longest-running annual team sporting events in Hawai‘i (second only to football.) The first-ever contest, held on October 12, 1952, happened with just three competing koa wood outrigger canoes of six men each.

Canoes launch from the Hale o Lono Harbor off the west side of Molokai and travel approximately 41 miles across the Kaiwi Channel to finish at Dukes Beach at Fort DeRussy and Hilton Hawaiian Village. (This year’s race is today, October 9, 2016.)

The channel is said to be among one of the most treacherous spans of ocean in the world, with the current record time for the passage being under 5 hours. The Oahu Hawaiian Canoe Racing Association organizes the annual event.

The Molokai Hoe perpetuates one of Hawai‘i’s and Polynesia’s most important and historic cultural traditions, while honoring outrigger canoe paddlers around the world. (Molokai Hoe)

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