Hawaii | Page 274 | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

August 27, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Āliapa‘akai

Hawaiians called it Āliapa‘akai, (salt pond or salt-encrusted.)

The exceptionally fine salt became a coveted commodity, and Hawaiians mined it to sell to sea captains and others. By the mid-19th century, the salt’s popularity as an ingredient for incense in China left the lake depleted.

Hawaiian mythology connects the Pele myths with the naming of Āliamanu and its sister crater, Āliapa‘akai (Salt Lake). Pele, the goddess of volcanoes, sought a home on one island after another.

After leaving Kaua‘i, Pele and her faithful sister, Hi‘iaka, settled in Āliapa‘akai by digging into the ground. According to one story in Fornander, the red dirt and salt they brought from Kauaʻi was deposited in their new home, giving the craters the names Kealiapa‘akai and Ke‘aliamanu .

Fornander also offers another version of the story. In this version, Pele and Hi‘iaka carried from Kaua‘i a bird and salt. While digging a home at Āliapa‘akai, the bird and salt were dropped or lost, giving the craters the names of Āliamanu (Salt-Encrusted (Bird)), and Āliapa‘akai (Salt-Encrusted (Salt.))

The name referred to the salt-loaded soil around the water, which produced white, crystallized blocks along the shore and at the lake bottom, a delicate sight praised by one Western visitor as “the principal natural curiosity that this island affords.”

Two missionary visitors in 1822 described “plants, sticks, and tufts of grass, scattered on the beach … delicately frosted with spangles of salt.”

Oʻahu’s nearly 50-acre Salt Lake (Āliapaʻakai) is in a low crater a little over a mile inland between Pearl Harbor and Honolulu.

Legend held that it was “fathomless,” a belief persisting until recent years despite soundings made by the US Exploring Expedition in 1840 that proved it was “no deeper than 18 inches.”

Originally, Salt Lake was an evaporation basin fed by seawater seepages at highest tides and producing large quantities of crustal salt for domestic use. Because the lake had no outlet, water loss was largely by evaporation, concentrating the salt.

Analysis of its water in 1891 indicated hyper-saline water and an unusual ionic content with low sulphate, and dominant sodium, magnesium and chloride.

At the turn of the century, the railways were built and Oʻahu Rail and Land Company (OR&L) sent its 1st train from Honolulu to ‘Aiea in 1889.

In describing the Salt Lake region, Hitchcock (1900) notes a cut along the Oʻahu Railroad less than one-half mile west of Moanalua Station which from bottom to top consisted of: “the main coral reef; thin layer of tuff; coral reef or limestone; decomposed rock sustaining a soil covered by forest; eruption of tuff from Aliapakai [Salt Lake Crater]…”

At the time of the Great Māhele, Moanalua ahupua‘a was controlled by Lot Kapuāiwa (he later became King Kamehameha V.) After Lot’s death, Moanalua was passed on to Princess Ruth Keʻelikōlani and then to Bernice Pauahi Bishop.

Upon her death in 1884, the ahupua‘a was willed to Samuel Mills Damon (Damon was a business partner of Pauahi’s husband, Charles Reed Bishop.)

In 1902, Damon leased Āliamanu Crater to the Honolulu Plantation Company. The US Government started purchasing land in and around Āliamanu in 1914 and shared use of the crater with the Honolulu Plantation Company.

Reliable transportation and viable soil soon brought sugar cane to the fishpond boundaries. Damon maintained much of Moanalua as pasture, with portions leased to rice, sugar and banana growers.

Up until 1910, the lake was regularly so salty that salt deposits formed around the shore. In that year, an artesian well was dug to bring the water level higher (and salt content lower.)

A tunnel, dug through the southeast rim of the crater (1894-1895,) controlled water level and provided an outlet. This act and later construction of a larger drainage outlet, eventually removed the salt from Salt Lake. Thereafter, it was used as a commercial fishpond for mullet and milkfish.

The Damon estate sold much of Moanalua to commercial and residential developers in 1956.

In 1966, most of the lake was filled in; all that’s left is a pond on the golf course at the Honolulu Country Club.

Today, the region is part of Honolulu’s primary urban center and is characterized as a residential community with portions in mid- and high-density uses, surrounded by higher-intensity military, airport and industrial uses.

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August 26, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Hale Kula Ali‘i

Hale Kula Ali‘i, the Chiefs’ Children’s School (later called the Royal School), was created by King Kamehameha III; the main goal of this school was to groom the next generation of the highest-ranking chief’s children of the realm and secure their positions for Hawaii’s Kingdom.

Seven families were eligible under succession laws stated in the 1840 Constitution of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i; Kamehameha III called on seven boys and seven girls of his family to board in the Chief’s Children’s School.

In 1839, King Kamehameha III, Hoapili and Kekāuluohi (mother of William Charles Lunalilo, who became the Kuhina Nui or regent of the Hawaiian Kingdom) signed a letter asking missionaries to run the Chiefs’ Children’s School.

In a missionary general meeting, “This subject was fully considered in connection with an application of the chiefs requesting the services of Mr. Cooke, as a teacher for their children; and it was voted,

That the mission comply with their request, provided they will carry out their promise to Mr. Cooke’s satisfaction; namely, to build a school house, sustain him in his authority, over the scholars, and support the school.” (Sandwich Islands Mission General Meeting Minutes, 1839)

The school was unique because for the first time aliʻi children would be brought together in a group to be taught, ostensibly, about the ways of governance. The School also acted as another important unifying force among the ruling elite, instilling in their children common principles, attitudes and values, as well as a shared vision.

No school in Hawai‘i has ever produced so many Hawaiian leaders in one generation.

The students ranged from age two to eleven, and differed widely in their temperaments and abilities, goals and destinies. But they all had one common bond: their genealogical sanctity and mana as Aliʻi-born.

The school building was square-shaped, with a courtyard in the center and a well. The thirteen or so rooms included a large classroom, kitchen, dining room, sitting room and parlor, and living quarters for the students and the Cookes. The entire complex was surrounded by a high wall, apparently intended as much to keep people out as to keep them in.

In this school were educated the Hawai‘i sovereigns who reigned over the Hawaiian people from 1855 (age noted is the age at death:)

Alexander Liholiho (February 9, 1834 – November 30, 1863 (age 29))
Alexander Liholiho became King Kamehameha IV and ruled over Hawaiʻi January 11, 1855 – November 30, 1863

Emma Naʻea Rooke (January 2, 1836 – April 25, 1885 (age 49))
On June 19, 1856, Emma married Alexander Liholiho and became Queen Emma. In 1859, King Kamehameha IV and Queen Emma founded Queen’s Hospital.

Lot Kapuāiwa (December 11, 1830 – December 11, 1872 (age 42))
Lot Kapuāiwa became King Kamehameha V and ruled over Hawaiʻi November 30, 1863 — December 11, 1872.

William Lunalilo (January 31, 1835 – February 3, 1874 (age 39))
The first elected King of Hawaiʻi; he became King Lunalilo and ruled over Hawaiʻi January 8, 1873 – February 3, 1874.

David Kalākaua (November 16, 1836 – January 20, 1891 (age 54))
He defeated Queen Emma in an election to the throne and ruled over Hawaiʻi February 12, 1874 — January 20, 1891.

Lydia Liliʻu Kamakaʻeha (September 2, 1838 – November 11, 1917 (age 79))
Hawaiʻi’s last reigning monarch, she was named heir apparent (and her name was changed to Liliʻuokalani) and succeeded her brother to the Hawaiian throne and ruled over Hawaiʻi January 29, 1891 – January 17, 1893.

Bernice Pauahi (December 19, 1831 – October 16, 1884 (age 52))
Great-granddaughter of King Kamehameha I, her estate operates the Kamehameha Schools (established in 1887) according to Pauahi’s will.

Elizabeth Kekaʻaniau Laʻanui (September 12, 1834 – December 20, 1928 (age 94))
Daughter of High Chief Gideon Peleioholani Laʻanui and High Chiefess Theresa Owana Kaheiheimalie Rives; she was great grandniece of Kamehameha I. She was the last Royal School alumnus to die.

Moses Kekūāiwa (July 20, 1829 – November 24, 1848 (age 19))
Son of Mataio Kekūanāoʻa and Elizabeth Kīnaʻu. He was a grandson of Kamehameha I.

Jane Loeau (December 5, 1828–July 30, 1873 (age 44))
Daughter of High Chief Kalaniulumoku and High Chiefess Kuini Liliha (descended from Kahekili II, Mōʻi of Maui, and High Chief Hoapili through her mother.) She was hānai to Ahukai (Kaukualiʻi.)

Victoria Kamāmalu (November 1, 1838 – May 29, 1866 (age 27))
She served as Kuhina Nui (Prime Minister) as Kaʻahumanu IV (1855-1863;) as Kuhina Nui, she effectively served as “Queen” for a day and proclaimed her brother Lot Kamehameha V the rightful successor to Kamehameha IV, when the latter died unexpectedly in 1863.)

Peter Young Kāʻeo (March 4, 1836 – November 26, 1880 (age 44))
Hānai to his maternal uncle John Kalaipaihala Young II (Keoni Ana) (Kuhina Nui (Prime Minister) (1845-1855) and son of John Young, the English sailor who became a trusted adviser to Kamehameha I)

William Pitt Leleiōhoku (March 31, 1821 – October 21, 1848 (age 27))
Son of the Kalanimōku (Prime Minister) and Kiliwehi (daughter of King Kamehameha I.) Hānai to John Adams Kuakini (Governor of Hawaiʻi Island and brother of Queen Kaʻahumanu.) He was married to the Princess Nāhiʻenaʻena and later to Princess Ruth Keʻelikōlani.

Abigail Maheha (July 10, 1832 – ca. 1861 (age 29))
Daughter of High Chief Namaile and High Chiefess Kuini Liliha; Hānai to her aunt, Princess Kekauʻōnohi (granddaughter of Kamehameha I.)

James Kaliokalani May 29, 1835 – April 2, 1852 (age 16))
Son of High Chief Caesar Kapaʻakea and mother High Chiefess Analeʻa Keohokālole. Hānai to his maternal grandfather High Chief Aikanaka.)

Mary Polly Paʻaʻāina (1833 – May 28, 1853 (age 20))
Daughter of Henry Coleman Lewis and High Chiefess Fanny Kekelaokalani (daughter of John Young, the advisor of Kamehameha I, and was also grandniece of Kamehameha I.) Entering the school in 1843, she was the last girl to enter the school.

The cornerstone of the original school was laid on June 28, 1839 in the area of the old barracks of ʻIolani Palace (at about the site of the present State Capitol of Hawaiʻi.)

Click HERE for more on the Chiefs’ Children’s School.

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August 25, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Pōhakuloa Training Area

Pōhakuloa Training Area (PTA) (lit. long stone) was first used during World War II as a Marine Corps artillery live-fire training area.

During World War II, few permanent structures existed; when the Marines trained at PTA, they slept in tents.

U.S. Marines from the 3rd Marine Division and the 5th Marine Division trained at PTA and on the western side of the Big Island in preparation for the Iwo Jima and Saipan campaigns.

After the war, PTA fell under the control of the Hawai‘i Territorial Guard and in the mid-1950s the Army took over PTA. From 1955-58, Soldiers from the 65th Engineer Company built the distinctive Quonset huts, which are still in use.

The training area is about midway between Hilo on the east coast and the Army landing site at Kawaihae Harbor on the west coast. PTA extends up the lower slopes of Mauna Kea to approximately 6,800-feet in elevation and to about 9,000-feet on Mauna Loa.

The area is the largest Department of Defense (DOD) installation in Hawaiʻi. PTA’s 130,000-acres include an 80-acre cantonment area (headquarters, housing and other facilities) with a fuel yard, fire and police departments and an airfield with a 3,700-foot runway.

The installation can support up to 2,300-military personnel with rations, fuel and transportation.

PTA’s firing ranges allow units to conduct small-arms and crew-served weapons familiarization training and qualifications, as well as artillery and mortar live fire.

Through the years, PTA’s ranges and training areas have helped Army, Navy, Air Force and Marine units maintain their combat readiness and prepare for war.

The 25th Infantry Division units, Kaneohe-based Marines and Hawaii Army National Guard Soldiers prepared at PTA for combat operations in Iraq and Afghanistan.

Today, PTA stands as the premier military training area in the Pacific region. Units from all U.S. military services, as well as allied militaries, train at PTA, because it offers realistic training opportunities not found elsewhere.

With several new construction projects underway, PTA looks to support military training well into the future.

One of the great untold stories is the attention to native plant restoration at PTA – from the low-tech nursery house and field plantings, to high-tech digital terrain monitoring (using airborne light detecting and ranging (LiDAR)) to define areas for plant restoration.

Dryland forests are among the most threatened of all tropical forest ecosystems, largely because of the impact of grazing animals, invasive species, fire and land conversion. Only about 5 percent of Hawaii dryland forest habitats remain.

PTA’s Natural Resources Team consists of about 40 employees, who protect threatened and endangered species on the military property, grow and monitor plants, construct firebreaks and remove invasive species. More than 2,000-endangered and common native plants are annually replanted into the wild.

Bird counters do visual checks for common and rare birds and also identify many by their songs. The most common native birds encountered are palila, nene, amakihi and apapane.

In addition, the Army is fencing off areas to protect it from the damaging effects of goats, sheep and pigs (ungulates) to allow recovery of mamane-naio forest.

Recovery of that forest may eventually lead to reintroduction of endangered palila to the Pōhakuloa plain. The Army is presently trying to get most of the fence-enclosed area cleared of unexploded ordnance so that public hunters can assist in ungulate removal.

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Quonset Huts Constructed by B Co., 3rd Shore Party Bn., Pohakuloa Training Area, Hawaii – Dec 1956 ((c)-thecoys2)
Quonset Huts constr. by B Co., 3rd Shore Party Bn, Pohakuloa Training Area, Hawaii – Dec 1956 ((c)-thecoys2)
Members of B Co., 3rd Shore Party Bn., Pohakuloa Training Area, Hawaii – Jan 1957 ((c)-thecoys2)
Quonset Huts constr. by B Co., 3rd Shore Party Bn., Pohakuloa Training Area, Hawaii – Dec 1956 ((c)-thecoys2)
Pohakuloa Training Area Private James Feld A Battery, 1st Battalion, 8th Artillery-1963 ((c)-25th Infantry Division)
PTA-Quonset Huts-HHF
100715-M-7045P-007 POHAKULOA TRAINING AREA, Hawaii (July 15, 2010) A U.S. Marine Corps CH-53D Sea Stallion helicopter assigned to Marine Heavy Helicopter Squadron (HMH) 463 based at Marine Corps Air Station, Hawaii, departs after offloading Marines assigned to 2nd Battalion, 3rd Marine Regiment on Range 442 at Pohakuloa Training Area, Hawaii. The Marines are embarked aboard the amphibious assault ship USS Bonhomme Richard (LHD 6) to participate in various live fire exercises in Rim of the Pacific (RIMPAC) 2010. (U.S. Marine Corps photo by Lance Cpl. Orlando Perez/Released)
U.S. Marines with Fox Company, 2nd Battalion, 3rd Marine Regiment are conducting immediate actions drills during Lava Viper in Pohakuloa Training Area, Hawaii, Jan. 19, 2012. Lava Viper is a battalion level combined arms training exercise to better prepare Marines for upcoming deployments. (U.S. Marine Corps photo by Cpl. Demetrius Munnerlyn/Released)
U.S. Marines with Gulf Company, 2nd Battalion, 3rd Marine Regiment, conduct immediate-action drills after a helicopter insert during Lava Viper in Pohakuloa Training Area, Hawaii, Jan. 20, 2012. Lava Viper is a battalion-level combined-arms training exercise to better prepare Marines for upcoming deployments.
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August 24, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Waiʻoli Mission District

The first mission station on Kauai was established at Waimea on the more accessible south coast in 1820. In 1834, the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions sent the Reverend William P. Alexander to investigate the north coast of Kauai for a suitable location for a second station.

He chose the Hanalei area because of its harbor, fertile soil and needs of the people. The actual site was called Waiʻoli, “Singing Waters”.

The Waiʻoli Mission District consists of the main Waiʻoli Mission Residence (1836,) the old Waiʻoli Huiʻia Church (1841,) the new Waiʻoli Huiʻia Church (1912) and related improvements.

Rev. Alexander and his wife and son moved there in 1834 and began work immediately, preaching to hundreds of islanders in a huge thatched meeting house, while living in a small grass hut.

The Alexanders carried on alone with their work until 1837 when the Board of Commissioners sent a teaching couple, Mr. and Mrs. Edward Johnson, to the mission. In the meantime, the Alexanders built a frame house for their growing family.

To help make ends meet, the mission planted crops in land donated by the Governor of Kauaʻi. The students helped cultivate the crops, and in so doing, learned agricultural techniques. Cotton was tried without much success. Sugar cane proved much more suitable.

As the center of mission activities on the Hanalei side of Kauai, Waiʻoli Church and Mission House played an important role in the history of that part of the island.

Deborah Kapule, the dowager Queen of Kauai and an earnest convert, assisted in establishing the Mission. Governor Kaikioewa of Kauai provided the land and encouraged the Mission in many ways.

The Old Waiʻoli Huiʻia Church is actually the third church built on its site. The first was a huge thatch structure built by the local populace when they heard that a permanent missionary was to be sent to them.

It was constructed in 1832, but destroyed by fire in 1834, just prior to the arrival of the Rev. William Alexander. He immediately built another similar structure, but it was destroyed by a storm in 1837.

In 1841, Rev. Alexander dedicated the present Old Waiʻoli Huiʻia Church; it is the oldest church on the Island of Kauai.

In 1843, the Alexanders were transferred to the Lāhainā station due to illness and the Rev. and Mrs. George Rowell took their place.

In 1846, Rev. Rowell and his wife were transferred to Waimea. Mr. and Mrs. Abner Wilcox and their four boys were sent from Oʻahu to take over the teaching duties. Mr. Wilcox was to “raise up teachers for the common schools of the island and to prepare those who may go from our Island to the High School”.

In 1853, the American Board finally transferred the Sandwich Islands Mission to the Hawaiian Evangelical Association, which had the status of a “home mission”. To round out the missionaries’ pensions, the American Board divided mission lands among them.

In this manner, the Waiʻoli home was deeded to the Wilcox family. They had decided to make their home in Hawaiʻi rather than return to the mainland. However, in 1869, while on a visit to relatives in New England, Mr. and Mrs. Wilcox suddenly fell ill and died.

The sons took over the Waiʻoli property, managing the farm operation and keeping the buildings in good repair. Albert Wilcox was the last to live in the frame house, moving out in 1877.

The sons went on to become some of the most prominent figures in Hawaii. George N. Wilcox became a highly successful sugar planter on Kauai and entered politics.

He was elected to the legislature. In 1887, he was elected to the House of Nobles, and after Kalākaua’s death, was appointed Minister of the Interior by Queen Liliuokalani.

After the fall of the monarchy, he served the Republic of Hawaiʻi in the constitutional convention, and later, in the Senate. All the while, he continued his sugar operations at the Grove Farm Plantation on Kauai, as well as participating in various other enterprises. The other Wilcox boys also played important parts in monarchy, Republic and Territorial commerce and politics.

In 1912, the current church building was built with donations from Sam, George and Albert Wilcox (sons of the missionary couple who were born at the station). The old 1841 church was used as the Mission Hall. The old mission bell was used in the belfry.

In 1921, Wilcox descendants funded architect Hart Wood to restore the Mission House and the Mission Hall. By 1945, it merged with the Anini Church and the Haʻena Church to become the Huiʻia Church.

Having survived two previous hurricanes, Hurricane Dot and Hurricane Iwa, both the Waiʻoli Huiʻia Church Sanctuary and the Waiʻoli Mission Hall were restored after sustaining significant damage from Hurricane Iniki in 1992. Both buildings are listed on the state and national registers of historic places.

The Waiʻoli Huiʻia Church has had a continuous record of service since 1834, first as a Congregational Church and since 1957 as a United Church of Christ.

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Old Waioli Church
Old Waioli Church
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August 23, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Hiʻilawe

Under natural conditions, Lālākea Stream, its tributary and Hakalaoa Stream flow over the pali above Waipiʻo Valley as the famous Hiʻilawe Twin Falls. The twin falls are Hiʻilawe Falls to the west and Hakalaoa Falls to the east.

The twin falls converge in a huge plunge pool at the bottom of the pali to form Hiʻilawe Stream, one of two primary waterways that flow through Waipiʻo Valley to the ocean.

Hiʻilawe Stream supports loʻi kalo, native stream life, productivity in nearshore waters, fishing, gathering and other traditional and customary Hawaiian practices.

Hiʻilawe Waterfall is one of the tallest waterfalls in Hawaiʻi dropping about 1,450-feet, with a main drop of 1,201-feet into Waipiʻo Valley on Lālākea Stream.

In the early-1900s, the streams feeding the falls were diverted so the water could be used for irrigation of sugar cane plantations, like many other streams in Hawaiʻi.

A concrete barrier, or “diversion”, had been built at the 2,000-foot elevation, high above the valley. With the reduction of water, there were no longer two waterfalls at Hiʻilawe, typically only one waterfall had water flowing.

The diverted water was last used by the Hāmākua Sugar Company in 1989.

In 1994, Kamehameha Schools (KS) obtained the Lālākea Ditch when it acquired Hāmākua Sugar Company land. The ditch continued to divert an average of 2.5-million gallons of water a day from the streams to the Lālākea Reservoir, where the unused water flowed into a dry gully.

In lieu of a hefty fine for failing to provide evidence of long-term use of water diverted by the Lālākea Ditch, KS was required to fund studies or other stream-related projects of comparable value.

When I served as Chair of the State Commission on Water Resource Management (Water Commission,) KS submitted and we approved a plan to fully restore flows to three streams that feed the famous Hiʻilawe Twin Falls.

The restoration of Lālākea and Hakalaoa streams and a tributary of Lālākea Stream was only the second stream restoration in the history of the State Water Code, which was enacted in 1987. (The first stream restoration under the code was the partial restoration of Waiāhole, Waianu and Waikāne streams in Windward O`ahu.)

Not only was there less water flowing, but it flowed slower and was warmer which affected the plants and animals that live in the stream. Abandoning the Lālākea Ditch and restoring the streams is necessary to support native stream life and the traditional and customary practices that rely on Hiʻilawe Stream.

In addition, KS prepared the Waipiʻo Valley Stream Restoration Study, the first-ever study of completely restoring a Hawaiian stream to natural flow conditions.

Stream restoration effects studied by KS include: water quality, stream flow, habitats and biota. This study was conducted by scientists from Bishop Museum and other institutions, with student scientists from the Island of Hawaiʻi collaborating and contributing to data collection and analysis.