Images of Old Hawaiʻi

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Feeding Pigs

“Hogs (pua‘a) were everywhere in Polynesia a part of native subsistence economy, except in New Zealand and Easter Island.”

“It is certain that they were brought into Polynesia from Melanesia, Indonesia, or Southeast Asia, where they have had, and have, an important place in native life, except where Hinduism, Buddhism, or Mohammedanism established dietary proscriptions. (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

“The transportation of the Polynesian domesticated plants, and of livestock for breeding, was a complicated operation.”

“There had to be food and water for an indefinite voyage, for livestock as well as for the men, women, and children. Cooked taro in some form would have been part of the provender stocked for any long voyage, but only migrants expecting to pioneer new lands would stock their canoe with crowns and sprouts of taro.”

“Cooked or dried sweet potatoes might have been carried, but not vine cuttings. Breadfruit paste, cooked and packaged, would be stocked as provender, but not the sprouting root cuttings, wrapped with a ball of earth, which were necessary for planting.” (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

“That the first Polynesians came in a canoe stocked with all the plants, hogs, dogs, and chickens (male and female) needed for permanent colonization is extremely unlikely. Even on a planned voyage it would have been well nigh impossible to bring all the plants and animals desired.”

“The discoverers may even have been surprised at finding no wild taro and sweet potato, no coconut trees by the shore, for they were doubtless accustomed to seeing these as basic to the landscape where they came from, since the larger islands of central Polynesia had long been inhabited before Hawaii was first settled”.  (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

“Pigs are not native to Hawai‘i. The first pigs were brought to the Hawaiian Islands by Polynesians …  Skeletal remains of pigs and recorded traditional knowledge sources indicate that pua‘a (the Polynesian pig) was a much smaller animal than the feral pigs of today. (Maly, Pang & Burrows)

“[F]eral pigs ranging through Hawaii’s upland forests today bear little physical or cultural resemblance to the smaller, domesticated pigs brought to the islands by voyaging Polynesians. It remains a popular misconception that pigs are native to Hawaiian forests and that pig hunting was a common practice in ancient Hawai‘i.” (Maly, Pang & Burrows)

“The hogs, dogs, and fowls, which were the only tame or domestic animals that we found here, were all of the same kind that we met with at the South Pacific islands.” (Cook’s Journal)

“Pua‘a were an integrated part of Hawaiian households, and the common presence of pa pua‘a (pig pens) reflects the controlled, physically compartmentalized nature of pig management in traditional Hawai‘i.”

“Notwithstanding, small populations of loosely controlled and free-roaming animals existed in ancient times. Traditional and historic evidence indicates that these animals remained largely domesticated, living mainly on the periphery of kauhale and extending into lowland forests.”

“They continued to rely largely on the food and shelter provided by the kauhale. This is because in pre-contact times, native Hawaiian forests were devoid of large alien fruits such as mangos and guava, and major protein sources, such as non-native earthworms, that would eventually support the large feral populations of pigs today.”

“Without such fodder, these early roaming populations would have been chiefly dependent on people for their survival.” (Maly, Pang & Burrows)

“Farmers raised hogs in domestication. Generally they were allowed to run about the kauhale (homestead) and gardens while they were young pigs, but when they were sizable and ready for fattening they were penned inside enclosures of heaped-up stones.”

“It is said that sometimes women suckled tiny pigs. Pigs and hogs were fed on scraps and peelings of taro, potato, yam, banana, and breadfruit, and on wild morning-glory roots and vines.”  (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

“Of animal food, they can be in no want; as they have abundance of hogs, which run, without restraint, about the houses”. (Cook’s Journal)

“Chickens and dogs lived near dwellings, the latter feeding on poi, breadfruit, and sweet potatoes. Pigs ranged more widely, rooting for food, but also living off sweet potato vine cuttings, taro leaves, sugarcane, and garbage.” (NPS)

“Mahina ‘ai, a contraction of mahi ana i ka ‘ai (cultivation of food), is not a land-division term, but merely designated land under cultivation, specifically taro, for ‘ai in this sense appears to refer particularly to taro, ‘the food,’ or staple. Apparently Mahina ‘ai also referred to dry-taro cultivation as well as wet.”

“The sweet-potato vines and foliage make excellent hog feed and have always been used for this purpose by the Hawaiians. Certain rapid-growing varieties are planted … especially for this purpose, and the foliage is regularly cut about once a month. The potatoes themselves are also fed to the hogs for fattening.”

“Some hogs were confined to stone pens. Some potato patches, or communities, were walled with stones, in areas where lava chunks were to be found scattered about.”

“But generally a potato patch was accessible to ranging domesticated hogs if they were hungry enough to root for raw potatoes; or to the wild boars and sows that roamed at large, especially at night.”

“The wild hogs in the uplands ate kukui nuts and mountain apples, seeds of various sorts, and parts of various ferns, and they grubbed for roots. Wild hogs also helped themselves from the sweet-potato plots”.

“A sow was a pua‘a wahine’; a boar, pua‘a ke‘a, or if the tusks were long, pua‘a puko‘a; a young pig was termed pua‘a ohi.”  (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

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by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Waikīkī, Place of Healing

From historic times, Waikīkī was viewed not only as a place of peace and hospitality, but of healing.  There was great mana (spiritual power) in Waikīkī. Throughout the 19th century, Hawai’i’s royalty also came here to convalesce.

The art of healing they practiced is known in the Islands as la‘au lapa‘au. In this practice, plants and animals from the land and sea, which are known to have healing properties, are combined with wisdom to treat the ailing.

At Waikīkī, Oʻahu on Kūhiō Beach, Hawaiian legend says Na Pōhaku Ola Kapaemāhu A Kapuni were placed here in tribute to four soothsayers, Kapaemāhu, Kahaloa, Kapuni and Kinohi, who came from Tahiti to Hawaiʻi (long before the reign of Oʻahu’s chief Kākuhihewa in the 16th century.)

Kapaemāhu was the leader of the four and honored for his ability to cast aside carnality and care for both men and women. Kapuni was said to envelop his patients with his mana. While Kinohi was the clairvoyant diagnostician, Kahaloa— whose name means “long breath”—was said to be able to breathe life into her patients.

They gained fame and popularity because they were able to cure the sick by laying their hands upon them. Before they returned to Tahiti, they asked the people to erect four large pōhaku as a permanent reminder of their visit and the cures they had accomplished.

Legend says that these stones were brought into Waikīkī from Waiʻalae Avenue in Kaimuki, nearly two miles away. Waikīkī was a marshland devoid of any large stones. These stones are basaltic, the same type of stone found in Kaimukī.

On the night of Kāne (the night that the moon rises at dawn,) the people began to move the rocks from Kaimukī to Kūhiō Beach.  During a month-long ceremony, the healers are said to have transferred their names — Kapaemāhu, Kahaloa, Kapuni and Kinohi — and or spiritual power, to the stones.

One of the pōhaku used to rest where the surf would roll onto the beach known to surfers as “Baby Queens”, the second pōhaku would be found on the ʻEwa side of ʻApuakehau Stream (site of Royal Hawaiian Hotel), and the last two pōhaku once sat above the water line fronting Ulukou (near the site of the present Moana Hotel.)  In 1963, they were relocated to Kūhiō Beach.

One of Waikīkī’s places of healing was the stretch of beach fronting the Halekūlani Hotel called Kawehewehe (the removal). The sick and the injured came to bathe in the kai, or waters of the sea.

They might have worn a seaweed lei of limu kala and left it in the water as a symbol of the asking of forgiveness for past sins (misdeeds were believed to be a cause of illness and “kala” means to forgive.)  Hawaiians still use the sea to heal their sores and other ailments, but few come to Kawehewehe.

From 1912 to 1929, a home here was converted to a small two-story boardinghouse, and operated by La Vancha Maria Chapin Gray, known as “Grays-by-the-Sea.” Its grounds were later incorporated into the Halekūlani.  The beach is still known today as Gray’s Beach.  (Kawehewehe is also the name of the surfing site called Populars, today.)

The natural sand-filled channel that runs through the reef makes it one of the best swimming areas along this stretch of ocean.  It was dredged in the early-1950s to allow catamarans to come ashore at Gray’s Beach. The channel lies between two surf sites, Paradise and Number Threes.

There was a Kawehewehe Pond; people with a physical ailment would come to the pond in search of healing.  A kahuna, or priest, would place a lei limu kala around their neck, and instruct them to submerge themselves in the healing waters of the pond. When the lei came off and floated downstream, it was said that the afflicted ones were healed.

It was for this particular ceremony that the area was called Kawehewehe, which literally means “the removal.”  It was on the ʻEwa side of the Royal Hawaiian Hotel (adjacent to Helumoa), just east of the Halekulani Hotel, Waikīkī.

Kawehewehe takes its meaning from the root word – wehe – which means to remove. (Pukui.)  Thus, as the name implies, Kawehewehe was a traditional place where people went to be cured of all types of illnesses – both physical and spiritual – by bathing in the healing waters of the ocean.

The patient might wear a seaweed (limu kala) lei and leave it in the water as a request that his sins be forgiven; hence the origin of the name kala (Lit., the removal.)

After bathing in the ocean, the person would duck under the water, releasing the lei from around his neck and letting the lei kala float out to sea. Upon turning around to return to shore, the custom is to never look back, symbolizing the oki (to sever or end) and putting an end to the illness. Leaving the lei in the ocean also symbolizes forgiveness (kala) and the leaving of anything negative behind.

In the 1880s, Helumoa was inherited by Kamehameha I’s great-granddaughter, Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop.

In the last days of her battle with breast cancer, Pauahi returned to Helumoa.  Although the Princess could have gone anywhere to recuperate, she chose Helumoa, for the fond memories it recalled and the tranquility it provided.

Here she wrote the final codicils (amendments) of her will, in which she bequeathed her land to the Bishop Estate for the establishment of the Kamehameha Schools.

Further down the beach, Queen Liliʻuokalani found respite and healing at her Waikīkī retreats noting, “Hamohamo is justly considered to be the most life-giving and healthy district in the whole extent of the island of Oʻahu …”

“… there is something unexplainable and peculiar in the atmosphere of that place, which seldom fails to bring back the glow of health to the patient, no matter from what disease suffering.”

The Queen “derived much amusement, as well as pleasure: for as the sun shines on the evil and the good, and the rain falls on the just and the unjust, I have not felt called upon to limit the enjoyment of my beach and shade-trees to any party in politics …”

“While in exile it has ever been a pleasant thought to me that my people, in spite of differences of opinions, are enjoying together the free use of my seashore home.”

The author, Robert Louis Stevenson, also found respite, here. In 1888, his health had been declining; he was told by his doctor to travel here because the climate was good for his bad health.

Stevenson’s remarks in the guest book note: “If anyone desires such old-fashioned things as lovely scenery, quiet, pure air, clean sea water, good food, and heavenly sunsets hung out before their eyes over the Pacific and the distant hills of Waianae, I recommend him cordially to the Sans Souci.”

From Kālia to Kawehewehe to Helumoa to Kūhiō Beach to Hamohamo to San Souci, there are many stories of the healing power at Waikīkī.

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Moa

The first birds to be introduced into the Islands came with early Polynesians, who brought the Moa – Red Junglefowl (Gallus gallus) – for food.

“It is not clearly understood how this species interacted with the terrestrial native birds, how it competed for resources, and what diseases might have been introduced with it, but the introduction of this bird by the Polynesians as a domestic animal probably had some impact.”

“[T]he Red Junglefowl is found in numbers only on Kauai, which lacks the mongoose, but it was formerly established in the wild on all the main islands. Its reproductive potential is high, and it is omnivorous.”

“It seems very likely to us that this species in large numbers could have been a potent competitor to some species of ground-foraging native birds, such as the smaller rails, only one of which survived into historical times.” (Van Riper and Scott)

This “original chicken” is smaller than its domestic descendants and is widespread throughout South and Southeast Asia; can also be found as an introduced species in many regions around the world (especially prevalent on many Pacific Islands, including Hawaii). (eBird)

“Dr. Stanley C. Ball … has studied the Polynesian chickens (moa) and concluded that they were brought from Malaysia to Polynesia, where they were found in all the islands except New Zealand.”

“‘The wooden breast-plates carved by the natives of Rapanui (Easter Island) to represent the cock, and the few traditions which mention this bird, lend weight to the view that the fowl has long been associated with the inhabitants of even the easternmost islands of Polynesia.’”

“‘The Malaysian region, from which fowls were evidently brought to the Pacific islands, was very close to, if not actually the home of, the wild jungle fowl (Gallus gallus),’ Dr. Ball states.”

“It is found from the southern Himalayas, through India, Java, Timor, Lombok, the Philippines, Balabac, Palawan, and Hainan, into Micronesia, Melanesia, and Polynesia.”

“Ball believed (and rightly, without doubt) that the chickens brought by Polynesian migrants were already domesticated, and that wild chickens to be found in the Marquesas, Tahiti, Hawaii, and elsewhere have reverted to the wild.” (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

As noted in Captain Cook’s journal, “The hogs, dogs, and fowls, which were the only tame or domestic animals that we found here, were all of the same kind that we met with at the South Pacific islands. There were also small lizards; and some rats, resembling those seen at every island at which we had as yet touched.”

“Of animal food, they can be in no want; as they have abundance of hogs, which run, without restraint, about the houses; and if they eat dogs, which is not improbable, their stock of these seem to be very considerable … They eat fowls of the same domestic kind as ours, but they are neither plentiful nor much esteemed by them.” (Cook’s Journal)

“Probably Hawaiians regarded their chickens as second-rate fare because chicken meat steamed in an imu is less flavorful for eating with poi than is good fish.”

“We may be sure, nevertheless, that the pioneering voyagers to these islands would not have taken the trouble to keep alive hens and roosters on their long voyages hither if they had not prized them.”

“Mrs. Pukui remembers, however, that even in her childhood older Hawaiians would not eat eggs. ‘It would be like eating the hen’s unborn baby,’ her grandmother said with distaste.” (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

“Mrs. Pukui has, with the help of her mother, Mrs. Pa‘ahana Wiggin, recorded the following colors and names of a variety of native chickens in old Hawaii.”

“The moa of Hawai‘i were smaller than the haole (introduced) chicken, legs shorter, and bodies longer. A pure white moa was called moa-ke‘oke‘o,  -Iawa, or -wakea. A black moa was called a hiwa or hiwa-pa‘a.”

“The moa nene were speckled like the Hawaiian goose (nene) . Those with yellowish-cream feathers were called pua-hau, for the yellow hau flower. Smoky gray ones were called lehu or nalehu. (ashy). Speckled with feathers of variegated colors were the ‘opule-pule (mixed-up-crazily).”

“With a ring of feathers around the neck like the plover, it was the moa ‘a‘i kolea. The ‘ulahiwa ranged in shade from a light red to a deep ocherous red. White with red feathers on the back was termed lawa a‘ea‘e (mixed).”

“(The Pukui-Elbert dictionary, 1957, adds two others: the completely black chicken, similar to the mud hen ‘alae, is called moa ‘alae; the black chicken with red feathers at neck and rump is moa ‘alae hulu ‘ula.)”

“The long, curving, irridescent tail feathers of the cocks are always present. These were prized in the Marquesas for warriors’ headdresses, and in Hawaii for making the tall feather-trimmed standards (kahili) that were emblems of rank.” (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

“We have often heard the shrill crow of wild roosters in the forests around Koke‘e, above Waimea Canyon on the island of Kauai. These cocks are bright-hued. They have crossbred with Indonesian jungle fowl imported some years ago.”

“In the Marquesas the hours before dawn were named ‘first-cock’s-crow,’ ‘second-cock’s-crow,’ and ‘third-cock’s-crow’; in Hawaii likewise: ‘moa-kua-kahi,’ ‘moa-kua-lua,’ ‘moa-kua-kolu.’”

“In Hawaii, if a cock crew much too early it was a sign that canoes might be expected to make an appearance. If a cock came right to the house door to crow, it announced the imminent arrival of visitors and warned the family to make preparations.”

“The Hawaiian fowl is traditionally identified with the Lono-Pele migration, specifically with ‘Olopana, paramount chief of Ko‘olau on Oahu. The first predacious exploit of the doughty Kamapua‘a (‘Hog-child,’ a demigod) was killing jungle fowl belonging to his uncle ‘Olopana.”

“And it was Ka-wa‘u-hele-moa (The-fowl-scratching-as-it-goes), a native sprite in the form of a fowl, who saw the thievery and gave the alarm to ‘Olopana, thus precipitating notable warfare. Ka-wa‘u-hele-moa lived in Palolo Valley, above the southerly shore of Oahu, and plays an active role in several legends.” (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

“Cock-fighting (haka-moa) was a very fashionable sport with the aliis”. (Malo) Chickens were thought to be forms of the mo‘o (reptile) class of ancestral gods (‘aumakua).

“Their greatest importance to Hawaiians was their use as offerings to temple gods and to family gods. Often a chicken of a particular color was called for as an offering in a healing rite. Sacrificed chickens played an important part in any ritual performed to fend off black magic.” (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Hawai‘i Transportation Evolution

The canoe was a principal means of travel in ancient Hawaiʻi, extensive cross-country trail networks.   Overland travel was on foot and followed the traditional trails.

Then, in 1803, American ship under Captain William Shaler (with commercial officer Richard Cleveland,) arrived with three horses aboard – gifts for King Kamehameha.

In the 1820s and 1830s, more horses were imported from California, and by the 1840s the use of introduced horses, mules and bullocks for transportation was increasing.

In 1825, Andrew Bloxam (naturalist aboard the HMS Blonde) noted in Honolulu that, “The streets are formed without order or regularity.  Some of the huts are surrounded by low fences or wooden stakes … As fires often happen the houses are all built apart from each other.  The streets or lanes are far from being clean …” (Clark, HJH)

By the 1830s, King Kamehameha III initiated a program of island-wide improvements on the ala loa, and in 1847, a formal program for development of the alanui aupuni (government roads) was initiated.

Sidewalks were constructed, usually of wood, as early as 1838.  The first sidewalk made of brick was laid down in 1857 by watchmaker Samuel Tawson in front of his shop on Merchant Street.

It wasn’t until 1850 that streets received official names.  On August 30, 1850, the Privy Council first named Hawaiʻi’s streets; there were 35-streets that received official names that day (29 were in Downtown Honolulu, the others nearby).

At the time, “Broadway” was the main street (we now call it King Street;) it was the widest and longest – about 2-3 miles long from the river (Nuʻuanu River on the west) out to the “plains” (to Mānoa).

It wasn’t until 1852 that the Chinese became the first contract laborers to arrive in the islands.  At about that time, Honolulu had approximately 10,000-residents.  Foreigners made up about 6% of that (excluding visiting sailors).  Laws at the time allowed naturalization of foreigners to become subjects of the King (by about that time, about 440 foreigners exercised that right).

The majority of houses were made of grass (hale pili,) there were about 875 of them; there were also 345 adobe houses, 49 stone houses, 49 wooden houses and 29 combination (adobe below, wood above).  In 1847, Washington Place was built by future-Queen Liliʻuokalani’s father-in-law.

The earliest public transit was the Pioneer Omnibus Line, with a horse-pulled vehicle serving parts of Honolulu for a few years beginning in the spring of 1868.  (Schmitt)

In the quarter century from 1872 to 1896 the population just about doubled in the kingdom from 57,000 to 109,000; Honolulu doubled from 15,000 to 30,000.

In 1884, the legislature passed a law “granting to William R. Austin and his associates the right to construct and operate a street railroad upon certain streets of the city of Honolulu.” Later amended, the law granted authority the Hawaiian Tramways Company, Limited (from England.)  (Kuykendall)

In 1888, the animal-powered tramcar service of Hawaiian Tramways ran track from downtown to Waikīkī. In 1900, the Tramway was taken over by the Honolulu Rapid Transit & Land Co (HRT).

That year, an electric trolley (tram line) was put into operation in Honolulu, and then in 1902, a tram line was built to connect Waikīkī and downtown Honolulu. The electric trolley replaced the horse/mule-driven tram cars.

The first automobiles appeared on the streets of Honolulu on October 8, 1899, the date on which both Henry P Baldwin and Edward D Tenney took possession of their newly arrived vehicles (both described as Wood electrics.)  (Schmitt) 

By 1900, Honolulu had a population of more than 39,000 and was in the midst of a development boom, creating tremendous need for more housing.

“[T]here were only four automobiles on Oahu in 1901 – you lived downtown because you worked downtown, you couldn’t live in Kaimuki or in Manoa.”  (Star Bulletin)

The “first gas-engined automobile complete with steering wheel and tonneau,” acquired by CM Cooke in 1904, and the Honolulu Automobile Club later adopted this date for the “first real automobile” in the Islands.  (Schmitt)

Spurring a boom, in 1903, Henry Ford officially opened the Ford Motor Company and five years later released the first Model T.  In 1907, Henry Ford announced his goal for the Ford Motor Company: to create “a motor car for the great multitude.”  (pbs)

“The automobile owner uses his car six days a week either in direct pursuit of his business or as a means of quickly transporting himself and others to and from that place of business.”

“The fact that he may take his family out on a Sunday is not a pleasure trip, but a necessary recreation in order, to ‘keep fit’ for his work.”  (McAlpine, Schuman Carriage, Honolulu Star Bulletin, November 3, 1907)

“The census of 1908 gave 259 cars imported into the islands in that year, thus showing that the automobile is in use pretty generally, as it is now estimated that there are nearly seven hundred cars in the islands, an increase of more than 100 per cent in one year.” (Beringer, Overland Monthly, July 1909)

“The automobile is here to stay. If we had better roads there would be more automobiles sold, naturally.”    (Gustav Schuman, Honolulu Star-Bulletin, June 24, 1916)

The first traffic lights in the Islands were installed at the intersection of Nuʻuanu Avenue and Beretania Street, Honolulu; an overhead signal was put into operation February 19, 1936.

On February 24 the overhead lights were “replaced by side bracket lights, flashing the green go and red stop light from a post at each corner.” The new lights were “operated by the flow of traffic itself.”  (Schmitt)

In 1938 automobile registration stood at 43,785. In 1945 the number of automobiles on island had grown to 52,527; a dozen years later, in 1957, automobile registration stood at 159,227, a 329.8 percent increase since 1945.

This tremendous influx of automobiles resulted in myriad needs having to be addressed, ranging from the reduction of traffic congestion to improved parking, and enhanced traffic safety measures.

The Territory undertook two other major highway projects, the Mauka and Makai Arterials, to divert traffic off downtown streets.  (HHS)

“‘A super highway through Honolulu, 120 feet wide and running mauka of the business district from Kalihi to Kaimuki … would be invaluable in solving Honolulu’s pressing traffic problem,’ engineer John Rush told the City Council in 1939.”

The 1945 Territorial Legislature enacted a liquid fuel tax in order to generate the funds necessary to match the federal funds available for the highway’s construction. This tax was increased to five cents a gallon in 1955 to help offset Hawaii’s match for the increasing federal dollars coming to the islands for highway construction.

From 1952 to 1962, Honolulu officials kept adding to the Mauka Arterial, described as the first road in the state “tailored to the flight patterns of people.”

The Lunalilo Highway project was expanded to become the H-1, a 28 mile roadway running from Palailai at Campbell Industrial Park to Ainakoa Avenue, with the Lunalilo Highway being the section running through Honolulu.  (DOT)

A companion Makai Arterial that would have run past Waikiki, down Ala Moana and along an elevated roadway near the Honolulu waterfront never materialized as planned.  (DOT)

Instead, the eight lane Makai Arterial, named Nimitz Highway, opened to traffic in November 1952, ten years after construction had commenced at the Pearl Harbor gate.  (HHS)

A section of the Federal-Aid to Highways Act of 1959 required that a study be undertaken to consider the eligibility of Hawai‘i and Alaska for interstate highway funding.

As a result of the study, the Hawaii Omnibus Act, which President Eisenhower signed into law on July 12, 1960, removed the language in the Federal-Aid Highway Act which limited the interstate system to the continental US.

It also authorized three interstate highways for Hawaii, H-1, H-2 and H-3 to address national defense concerns, an allowed interstate highway justification which resulted from a 1957 amendment to the original act.  (DOT)

An interesting remnant of apparently changed alignment (and probable interconnection of the Mauka and Makai Arterials) is a stub out to nowhere at the on/off ramps at Kapiʻolani Boulevard to H-1.  (Lots of information here is from DOT, HHS and Leidemann.)

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Saddle Road

By the early 1800s, foreign visitors began making regular trips across the ‘āina mauna [mountain lands] and to the summit of Mauna Kea. Based on their accounts, travel in the region through the middle 1800s basically followed the old trails, or cut across new areas.

By the 1850s, the Kingdom of Hawai‘i entered into a program of improving ancient trails and identifying new routes, by which to improve travel between various locations and facilitate commerce. (Maly)

At its May 23, 1849 meeting, the Privy Council of the Kingdom of Hawaiʻi (a private committee of the King’s closest advisors to give confidential advice on affairs of state) sought to “facilitate communication between Kailua, the seat of the local government, and Hilo, the principal port.”

They resolved “that GP Judd and Kinimaka proceed to Kailua, Hawaiʻi, to explore a route from that place to Hilo direct, and make a road, if practicable, by employing the prisoners on that island and if necessary taking the prisoners from this island (Oʻahu) to assist; the government to bear all expenses”. (Privy Council Minutes, Punawaiola)

In planning the road, the words of the Privy Council’s resolution were taken literally, and the route selected ran to the high saddle between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa on a practically straight line between the terminal points.

What became known as the “Judd Road” (or “Judd Trail”) was constructed between 1849 and 1859; construction began at the government road in Kailua (what is now known as Aliʻi Drive) and traversed through a general corridor between Hualālai and Mauna Loa.  (Remnants of perimeter walls can still be seen at Aliʻi Drive.)

“This was the road that Dr. Judd … would have built from Kona in a straight line across the island of Hawaii. It was meant, of course, as a road for horsemen and pack animals. In the generation of Dr. Judd it was a great work, and the manner of its building showed that he meant it to be a monument to him for all time.”  (Ford, Mid-Pacific, 1912)

In 1859, when the road had been built about 12-miles from Kailua into the saddle between Hualālai and Mauna Loa, the project was abandoned – a pāhoehoe lava flow from the 11,000 foot-level of Mauna Loa crossed its path.  Though incomplete (it never reached its final destination in Hilo,) people did use the Judd Road to get into Kona’s mauka countryside.

This road was not the only attempt of linking East and West Hawaiʻi.  The western section of the trail from Waimea to Kalai‘eha (Humu‘ula Sheep Station) had become a ‘cart road’ by 1873; it was only a dirt road through the pasture then and in rainy weather it turned to mud.

There were no automobiles in 1910 and very few in the 1920s, all transportation was by foot, horse, or by wagon, carriage and buggy.  In 1920, the cart road left the Waimea/Kona road at Pu’u Nohona‘ohae and went through Waiki’i village to The Saddle.

The cart road initially began a little farther north, however, the manager of Parker Ranch, AW Carter, got the entrance of the road moved so that it passed between Pu‘u Nohona’ohae lki to the north, and Pu‘u Nohona‘ohae Nui to the south. (This is the alignment of the old Saddle Road where it meets the Waimea to Kona ‘Mauka Road.’)

In the saddle area, the old cart road ran directly east from Pōhakuloa to Kalai‘eha (Humu’ula Sheep Station).  The eastern section, from Kalai‘eha down to Hilo, remained a trail until World War II, except at the Hilo end. ‘Kaumana Road’ was built (paved) up to the Countly Club Road intersection in Kaumana by the “FTRA” about 1936.

Because there was no road up from Hilo, to get to Kalai‘eha (near Pu‘u Huluhulu and the present Mauna Kea Access Road) and surrounding uses. From Hilo, you had to drive all the way along the Hāmākua Coast (Mamalahoa Highway) around through Waimea and back east through the Saddle.  As described by Roy Blackshear, to get to Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Ranch (owned by his grandfather):

“The first time I went to Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō was about 1931. But at that time, of course there was no Saddle Road there, and to get to Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō Ranch we left Kea‘au before sunrise in the morning, traveled north along the Hāmākua Coast, going through all the valleys and small bridges and so on and finally we reached Waimea and had lunch at Waimea.”

“And then we continued from Waimea along the Mamalahoa Highway. Out to where, I think it was just about where the present Saddle Road takes off. …  And of course any car going up at that time would have to carry chains because they did run into mud.”

[They stopped first in Waiki‘i.] “And then we headed on east from there, climbing all the time. So then we continued on and we reach Humu‘ula sheep station. And they put more water in the radiator. And then we started from, there up towards the Keanakolu road …” (Blacksher; Rosendahl)

While ‘Kaumana Road’ was built (paved) up to the Country Club Road intersection in Kaumana by about 1936, from there it was an unpaved wagon road until World War II and above that a horse trail.  Above Kaumana, the eastern section (from Kalai‘eha) remained a trail until World War II.

The Saddle Road was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) and the US Army Engineer District, Honolulu (USED, now called the US Army Corps of Engineers) during World War II in order to provide an access route in case of Japanese invasion.

Near the top of Kaumana, the army had a camp and barred everyone who didn’t work there from traveling up into the interior of the Island.

Henry Auwae ran the lead bulldozer to clear the road in 1943, coming up from Hilo on the 1881 and 1855 lava flows and choosing a route which kept to no more than a 6% grade. Cinders were then hauled down from Humu‘ula toward Kaumana by the CCC and later the USED, then oiled to make a narrow “gravel” road.

The west section of the road was paved right after the war. The east section of the road was not paved until later, about 1949. At that time the road was moved at several points to cut off some large loops. These old loops still exist, including one north of the road around milepost 9 and another around milepost 22.

Then, starting with an accepted EIS in 1999, what is now known as Daniel K Inouye Highway (renamed on what would have been his 89th birthday) was realigned and widened.  Starting in 2007, successive phases of the improved road have been opened up.

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