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November 25, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Salting Pigs for the Sea-Store

A ship’s stores are the supplies and equipment required for the operation and upkeep of a ship. (Merriam-Webster) Sea-stores are supplies needed while you are out in the ocean sailing.

Part of the stores are food items.  Fresh meat doesn’t last long; folks started salting meat to extend their useful life.

“Salt is effective as a preservative because it reduces the water activity of foods. The water activity of a food is the amount of unbound water available for microbial growth and chemical reactions.” (National Library of Medicine)

“Native Hawaiians used sea salt, pa‘akai (“to solidify the sea”), to season and preserve food, for religious and ceremonial purposes, and as medicine. Preserving food like i‘a (fish) and he‘e (octopus) was essential not just for storage on land, but also to provide nourishment during ocean voyages.” (UH, Sea Earth Atmosphere)

Salt “has ever been an essential article with the Sandwich Islanders, who eat it very freely with their food, and use much in preserving their fish.”  (Ellis, 1826)

During Cook’s visits to the Islands, King’s journal noted “the great quantity of salt they eat with their flesh and fish. … almost every native of these islands carried about with him, either in his calibash, or wrapped up in a piece of cloth, and tied about his waist, a small piece of raw pork, highly salted, which they considered as a great delicacy, and used now and then to taste of.”

“Their fish they salt, and preserve in gourd-shells; not, as we at first imagined, for the purpose of providing against any temporary scarcity, but from the preference they give to salted meats.”  (King, 1779)

“The surplus … they dispose of to vessels touching at the islands, or export to the Russian settlements on the north-west coast of America, where it is in great demand for curing fish, &c.” (Ellis, 1826)

“The salting of hogs for sea-store was also a constant [by the Hawaiians], and one of the principal objects of Captain Cook’s attention.”

“As the success we met with in this experiment, during our present voyage, was much more complete than it had been in any former attempt of the same kind, it may not be improper to give an account of the detail of the operation.”

“It has generally been thought impracticable to cure the flesh of animals by salting, in tropical climates; the progress of putrefaction being so rapid, as not to allow time for the salt to take (as they express it) before the meat gets a taint, which prevents the effect of the pickle.”

“We do not find that experiments relative to this subject have been made by the navigators of any nation before Captain Cook.”

“In his first trials, which were made in 1774, during his second voyage to the Pacific Ocean, the success he met with, though very imperfect, was yet sufficient to convince him of the error of the received opinion.”

“As the voyage, in which he was now engaged, was likely to be protracted a year beyond the time for which the ships had been victualled, he was under the necessity of providing, by some such means, for the subsistence of the crews, or of relinquishing the further prosecution of his discoveries.”

“He therefore lost no opportunity of renewing his attempts, and the event answered his most sanguine expectations.”

“The hogs, which we made use of for this purpose, were of various sizes, weighing from four to twelve stone. [a stone is 14 pounds].”

“The time of slaughtering was always in the afternoon; and as soon as the hair was scalded off, and the entrails removed, the hog was divided into pieces of four or eight pounds each, and the bones of the legs and chine taken out; and, in the larger sort, the ribs also.”

“Every piece then being carefully wiped and examined, and the veins cleared of the coagulated blood, they were handed to the salters, whilst the flesh remained still warm.”

“After they had been well rubbed with salt, they were placed in a heap, on a stage raised in the open air, covered with planks, and pressed with the heaviest weights we could lay on them.”

“In this situation they remained till the next evening, when they were again well wiped and examined, and the suspicious parts taken away.”

“They were then put into a tub of strong pickle, where they were always looked over once or twice a day, and if any piece had not taken the salt, which was readily discovered by the smell of the pickle, they were immediately taken out, re-examined, and the sound pieces put to fresh pickle. This, however, after the precautions before used, seldom happened.”

“After six days, they were taken out, examined for the last time, and being again slightly pressed, they were packed in barrels, with a thin layer of salt between them.”

“I brought home with me some barrels of this pork, which was pickled at Owhyhee in January 1779, and was tasted by several persons in England, about Christmas 1780, and found perfectly sound and wholesome.” (Cook’s Journal)

© 2024 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: Economy, Hawaiian Traditions, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks Tagged With: Hawaii, Salt, Puaa, Pig

November 16, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Feeding Pigs

“Hogs (pua‘a) were everywhere in Polynesia a part of native subsistence economy, except in New Zealand and Easter Island.”

“It is certain that they were brought into Polynesia from Melanesia, Indonesia, or Southeast Asia, where they have had, and have, an important place in native life, except where Hinduism, Buddhism, or Mohammedanism established dietary proscriptions. (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

“The transportation of the Polynesian domesticated plants, and of livestock for breeding, was a complicated operation.”

“There had to be food and water for an indefinite voyage, for livestock as well as for the men, women, and children. Cooked taro in some form would have been part of the provender stocked for any long voyage, but only migrants expecting to pioneer new lands would stock their canoe with crowns and sprouts of taro.”

“Cooked or dried sweet potatoes might have been carried, but not vine cuttings. Breadfruit paste, cooked and packaged, would be stocked as provender, but not the sprouting root cuttings, wrapped with a ball of earth, which were necessary for planting.” (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

“That the first Polynesians came in a canoe stocked with all the plants, hogs, dogs, and chickens (male and female) needed for permanent colonization is extremely unlikely. Even on a planned voyage it would have been well nigh impossible to bring all the plants and animals desired.”

“The discoverers may even have been surprised at finding no wild taro and sweet potato, no coconut trees by the shore, for they were doubtless accustomed to seeing these as basic to the landscape where they came from, since the larger islands of central Polynesia had long been inhabited before Hawaii was first settled”.  (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

“Pigs are not native to Hawai‘i. The first pigs were brought to the Hawaiian Islands by Polynesians …  Skeletal remains of pigs and recorded traditional knowledge sources indicate that pua‘a (the Polynesian pig) was a much smaller animal than the feral pigs of today. (Maly, Pang & Burrows)

“[F]eral pigs ranging through Hawaii’s upland forests today bear little physical or cultural resemblance to the smaller, domesticated pigs brought to the islands by voyaging Polynesians. It remains a popular misconception that pigs are native to Hawaiian forests and that pig hunting was a common practice in ancient Hawai‘i.” (Maly, Pang & Burrows)

“The hogs, dogs, and fowls, which were the only tame or domestic animals that we found here, were all of the same kind that we met with at the South Pacific islands.” (Cook’s Journal)

“Pua‘a were an integrated part of Hawaiian households, and the common presence of pa pua‘a (pig pens) reflects the controlled, physically compartmentalized nature of pig management in traditional Hawai‘i.”

“Notwithstanding, small populations of loosely controlled and free-roaming animals existed in ancient times. Traditional and historic evidence indicates that these animals remained largely domesticated, living mainly on the periphery of kauhale and extending into lowland forests.”

“They continued to rely largely on the food and shelter provided by the kauhale. This is because in pre-contact times, native Hawaiian forests were devoid of large alien fruits such as mangos and guava, and major protein sources, such as non-native earthworms, that would eventually support the large feral populations of pigs today.”

“Without such fodder, these early roaming populations would have been chiefly dependent on people for their survival.” (Maly, Pang & Burrows)

“Farmers raised hogs in domestication. Generally they were allowed to run about the kauhale (homestead) and gardens while they were young pigs, but when they were sizable and ready for fattening they were penned inside enclosures of heaped-up stones.”

“It is said that sometimes women suckled tiny pigs. Pigs and hogs were fed on scraps and peelings of taro, potato, yam, banana, and breadfruit, and on wild morning-glory roots and vines.”  (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

“Of animal food, they can be in no want; as they have abundance of hogs, which run, without restraint, about the houses”. (Cook’s Journal)

“Chickens and dogs lived near dwellings, the latter feeding on poi, breadfruit, and sweet potatoes. Pigs ranged more widely, rooting for food, but also living off sweet potato vine cuttings, taro leaves, sugarcane, and garbage.” (NPS)

“Mahina ‘ai, a contraction of mahi ana i ka ‘ai (cultivation of food), is not a land-division term, but merely designated land under cultivation, specifically taro, for ‘ai in this sense appears to refer particularly to taro, ‘the food,’ or staple. Apparently Mahina ‘ai also referred to dry-taro cultivation as well as wet.”

“The sweet-potato vines and foliage make excellent hog feed and have always been used for this purpose by the Hawaiians. Certain rapid-growing varieties are planted … especially for this purpose, and the foliage is regularly cut about once a month. The potatoes themselves are also fed to the hogs for fattening.”

“Some hogs were confined to stone pens. Some potato patches, or communities, were walled with stones, in areas where lava chunks were to be found scattered about.”

“But generally a potato patch was accessible to ranging domesticated hogs if they were hungry enough to root for raw potatoes; or to the wild boars and sows that roamed at large, especially at night.”

“The wild hogs in the uplands ate kukui nuts and mountain apples, seeds of various sorts, and parts of various ferns, and they grubbed for roots. Wild hogs also helped themselves from the sweet-potato plots”.

“A sow was a pua‘a wahine’; a boar, pua‘a ke‘a, or if the tusks were long, pua‘a puko‘a; a young pig was termed pua‘a ohi.”  (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

© 2024 Ho‘okuleana LLC

Filed Under: Hawaiian Traditions Tagged With: Hawaii, Puaa, Pig

August 4, 2017 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Puaʻa

It will be mixed, this taro of ours
And of Ku-of-joint-action.
Firewood will be chopped
The imu lighted,
The pig strangled,
The bristles of the pig singed off,
The pig disemboweled,
And our pig baked in the imu,
O Ku-of-joint-action.
When the pig is cooked it will be cut up;
Men, women and children will eat
Of the pig, of the poi, of our taro
The mighty planter’s and yours,
O Ku-of-joint-action.
(Kamakau; Kirch)

The Hawaiian Islands supported some edible land animals, such as birds and bats, when first settled. The settlers brought with them, however, domesticated land animals – pigs, dogs and chickens – that they carefully bred and raised as a supplementary food source. (NPS)

“This is the most extraordinary Hog Island we ever met with, take them for Number and size – in the course of this fore Noon my People have purchasʼd on board here 70 head weighing upon an average at least a 100 lb apiece.” (Charles Clerke, Commander of the Cook, off Kauaʻi, February 2, 1779; Mitchell)

“The Natives bring onboard so many Hogs we know not what to do with them, so are obligʻd to give up that trade for the present.” (Clerke; Mitchell)

“We could not indeed but admire the laudable ingenuity of these people in cultivating their soil with so much economy. The indefatigable labor in making these little fields in so rugged a situation, the care and industry with which they were transplanted, watered and kept in order, surpassed anything of the kind we had ever seen before.”

“It showed in a conspicuous manner the ingenuity of the inhabitants in modifying their husbandry to different situations of soil and exposure, and with no small degree of pleasure we here beheld their labor rewarded with productive crops. (Menzies; with Vancouver 1792-94)

These included taro, yams and breadfruit (not successfully transplanted until the 1200s); fiber plants like the paper mulberry whose bark could be manufactured into clothing and decorative items; medicinal plants of many varieties; and a few domesticated pigs, dogs and fowl.

However, careful tending of these food plants and domesticated animals for several years would have been necessary before they could provide an adequate food supply. (NPS) The linkage between pig husbandry and agricultural production is widespread in the Pacific. (Kirch)

Pigs were raised in great numbers for food and for religious and ceremonial purposes; they were used chiefly in important feasts (ʻaha ʻāina] or as offerings in religious rituals, as well as tribute from the makaʻāinana (commoners) to their chiefs. (Kirch)

Pua‘a (Pigs) constituted the male-associated, ‘higher’ category of sacrifice animal; dogs too had their role as offerings to the female deities. (Kirch)

Pigs were cooked and offered in large numbers at the dedication of important temples (heiau.) The gods which were honored or propitiated at these ceremonies were believed to accept the essence of the pork and, in most cases, the flesh was eaten by the chiefs and priests when the ritual was over. (Mitchell)

It was the pig that was the more highly valued item, most suitable for Hoʻokupu tribute to the chiefs and as sacrificial offerings from the chiefs to the gods. (Kirch)

More chiefs than commoners consumed pork and dog meat, the right to the fattest and largest number of pigs and dogs being a privilege of rank.

Taboos in eating (ʻai kapu) required that pork be restricted to men and to boys of 10 or 11 years who were old enough to eat in the menʼs eating house (hale mua).

Pigs to be cooked for food and for ceremonial offerings were killed by strangling. Most of the hair and bristles were singed off by dragging the carcass over rough hot stones. Any remaining hair was removed by scraping the skin with a rough lava stone (pōhaku ʻānai puaʻa).

Chickens and dogs lived near dwellings. Pigs ranged more widely, rooting for food, but also living off sweet potato vine cuttings, taro leaves, sugarcane and garbage. Captain Cook and other European navigators later introduced goats, cattle, sheep and horses.

Pigs were free to roam about the village and its environs. Some women and children took piglets as pets. Stone walls (pā pōhaku) and picket fences (pā lāʻau) kept these animals from areas where they were not wanted.

Mature hogs were penned in stone-walled enclosures and fattened. They were fed cooked taro (kalo), sweet potatoes (ʻuala), yams (hoi), bananas (maiʻa) and breadfruit (ʻulu).

Some pigs escaped to the uplands and fed on kukui nuts, mountain apples (ʻōhiʻa ʻai) in season and the trunks of several kinds of ferns. From time to time these wild pigs came down from the forests and raided the gardens, particularly the sweet potato plots. In the wild the old boars developed long, curved ivory-like tusks (kuʻi puaʻa).

Mature hogs weighed a hundred pounds. They had lean bodies with long heads and small erect ears. The color of the bristles were all black (hiwa), striped (olomea), spotted (pūkoʻa) and combinations of these. Some pigs were hairless (hulu ʻole). Ornamental and useful articles were fashioned from bones and tusks of the pig.

A small bunch of stiff black and white bristles formed the hackle (hulu) of the bonito (aku) fishhook. Shafts of the leg bones were shaped into fish hooks.

The most ornamental of the products from hogs were the pairs of long, curved ivory-like boarsʼ tusks (kuʻi puaʻa) or (niho puaʻa). Bracelets (kupeʻe hoʻokalakala) were made by drilling matching holes in two places in from 19 to 24 full length tusks, each 4 or 5 inches long.

These holes accommodated the olonā cords which held the tusks lengthwise around the wrists. Each man might wear a pair of them while dancing. (Mitchell) (Lots of information here is from Kirch, Mitchell and NPS.)

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Young men in malo with pig-PP-2-7-009-1939
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Filed Under: Hawaiian Traditions Tagged With: Hawaii, Pigs, Puaa, Ai Kapu

September 18, 2016 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Pig Hunting

Hānai Puaʻa Wahine, Maloko Ka Uku
Raise a sow, for her reward is inside of her
(A sow will bear young)

Pua‘a (pigs) are not native to Hawai‘i. The first pigs were brought to the Hawaiian Islands by the early Polynesians that came to the Islands (approximately AD 1000 and 1200.) (Kirch)

“Originally, pua‘a enjoyed a close relationship with their human families and rarely strayed far from the kauhale (family compound.)”

“Well-developed taro and sweet potato agriculture in ancient Hawai‘i was incompatible with uncontrolled pigs, and there is every indication that pigs were both highly valued and carefully managed sources of protein.”

“Pua‘a were an integrated part of Hawaiian households, and the common presence of pa pua‘a (pig pens) reflects the controlled, physically compartmentalized nature of pig management in traditional Hawai‘i.”

“Notwithstanding, small populations of loosely controlled and free-roaming animals existed in ancient times. Traditional and historic evidence indicates that these animals remained largely domesticated, living mainly on the periphery of kauhale and extending into lowland forests.”

They continued to rely largely on the food and shelter provided by the kauhale. This is because in pre-contact times, native Hawaiian forests were devoid of large alien fruits such as mangos and guava, and major protein sources (including non-native earthworms.) (Maly, Pang & Burrows, 2010)

“We believe that subsistence hunting of feral ungulates by native Hawaiians is NOT a traditional and customary right and therefore not protected under the state constitution or Hawai‘i Revised Statutes.”

“There is no evidence that pigs were hunted in ancient times. The Hawaiian diet was not dependent on pigs and they were only eaten for important occasions or as offerings to gods.”

“It is well documented that feral pigs ranging through Hawaii’s upland forests today bear little physical or cultural resemblance to the smaller, domesticated pigs brought to the islands by voyaging Polynesians.”

“It remains a popular misconception that pigs are native to Hawaiian forests and that pig hunting was a common practice in ancient Hawai‘i.” (Benton Keali‘i Pang, President of ‘Ahahui Mālama I Ka Lōkahi; Environment Hawaii, January 1997)

Hunting of ungulates was not in keeping with Hawaiian cultural traditions. Goats, sheep, European boar, and cattle are all “foreign to the native Hawaiian landscape and culture.”

The Hawaiians themselves used fences to create enclosures to protect native resources. The Hawaiian pig was traditionally raised and fattened in enclosures. (Kepa Maly; Environment Hawaii, January 1997)

“Domestication … is here confined to three species; the hog, dog, and cock; and secondly, it is in fact next to a state of nature in these isles: the hogs and fowl run about at their case the greatest part of the day; the last especially, which live entirely on what they pick up, without being regularly fed.”

“Now and then I observed the house open, but furnished below at the height of about one foot, with a fence of bamboos. Some small houses are likewise included in a kind of partition made of small sticks in the manner of hurdles.”

“The natives commonly keep their hogs during the night, in the house, and have in one corner of it contrived an inclusure (pa booa (pā puaʻa)) covered on the top with boards, on which they sleep.”

“As to animal food from hogs, dogs and fowls, I am certain that their meat is but sparingly eaten …” (Forster’s Observations in Polynesia, 1778)

“Pigs were raised in great numbers for food and for religious and ceremonial purposes. They were free to roam about the village and its environs. Stone walls (pā pōhaku) and picket fences (pā lāʻau) kept these animals from areas where they were not wanted.”

“Mature hogs were penned in stone-walled enclosures and fattened. They were fed cooked taro (kalo), sweet potatoes (ʻuala), yams (hoi), bananas (maiʻa) and breadfruit (ʻulu). Some of these foods were the scraps and peelings not suitable for human consumption.” (Mitchell)

“In contrast, current feral pigs are largely derived from animals introduced after western contact. Captain James Cook, for example, brought European pigs during his first voyage to Hawai‘i, and many other introductions of European and Asian swine followed. Over time, the Polynesian pua‘a interbred with and were mostly displaced by these larger animals.”

“As feral pig populations grew on all islands, they began ranging more freely in the forests. Concurrent but independent introductions of earthworms and introduced plant species, such as mango and guava, provided reliable protein and carbohydrate food sources and helped expand their range.”

“Omnivorous and without any non-human predators, pigs began to thrive in the native forest and successfully established large populations. Within only a few generations, any escaped domesticated pigs reverted to a feral form, retaining the large body size of European swine, but severing their dependence on human beings.” (Maly, Pang & Burrows, 2010)

“The custom of recreational hunting evolved over the last hundred fifty years as native Hawaiians assimilated western traditions in the context of these introduced game animals.”

“The earliest descriptions of western-style hunting occur in the opening decades of the 19th century, when outings were organized to control wild herds of cattle that threatened agriculture, residences, and forest resources.”

“The practice increased in frequency and in popularity, with island hunters playing a key role in the state’s response to the watershed crisis of the late 19th-century. These state-sponsored control efforts resulted in the removal of over 170,000 introduced mammals in the first half of the 20th century.”

“Although hunting is not widely practiced in contemporary Hawaiian society – only two percent of the state’s residents obtain a hunting license – it is a visible and common occurrence across the state.”

“Pig hunting, in particular, is a cherished modern practice for island sportsmen, including some whose subsistence depends to greater or lesser extent on wild game.”

“Pig hunting in heavy cover is usually accomplished with the use of dogs, and the required training, feeding and care for these animals can be a difficult and expensive task. The dogs locate, chase, grab, or bay the game, which is then typically dispatched by the hunter with a gun or knife.”

“These techniques are derived directly from western and European pig hunting practices, incorporated over the last 150 years in Hawai‘i, and passed down through family generations.” (Maly, Pang & Burrows, 2010)

While cultural authorities note that hunting of pigs is not a traditional and cultural practice, a recent Hawaiʻi Intermediate Court of Appeals decision (December 2015) notes pig hunting is a customary and traditional practice for Kui Palama on the Island of Kauai, prior to 1892.

But the Court noted, “there have been no Hawaiʻi appellate cases directly addressing whether pig hunting is a constitutionally protected traditional and customary practice, and for this reason, we reiterate that our decision here is confined to the narrow circumstances and the particular record in this case.”)

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Filed Under: General, Hawaiian Traditions, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Pigs, Puaa

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