Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks | Page 32

February 10, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Lighting Strikes Twice

Hawai‘i’s whaling era began in 1819 when two New England ships became the first whaling ships to arrive in the Hawaiian Islands.

At that time, whale products were in high demand; whale oil was used for heating, lamps and in industrial machinery; whale bone was used in corsets, skirt hoops, umbrellas and buggy whips.

In the early 19th century, whaling voyages often took two years or more.

George Pollard was captain of the Essex, a Nantucket whaling vessel that sank in 1821 after being rammed by a sperm whale in the South Pacific.

The Essex’s epic tale inspired Herman Melville’s classic novel “Moby-Dick;” however, the author isn’t believed to have used Pollard as the basis for the book’s notorious Captain Ahab.

After the tragedy of the Essex, Captain George Pollard and other survivors endured a 95-day journey in small boats that resulted in sickness, starvation, and, ultimately, cannibalism. However, this dramatic experience was not the final chapter in Pollard’s career as a whaling captain.

Despite the Essex tragedy, Pollard was offered another captaincy soon after, this time of the Two Brothers; before departing, Pollard had said he believed “lightning never strikes in the same place twice.”

Such was not the case.

The Two Brothers set sail for the Pacific, leaving Nantucket on November 26, 1821. By winter 1822, the ship had rounded the tip of South America. The crew was on its way to newly discovered whaling grounds near Japan; she made her way around Cape Horn, then up the west coast of South America.

On the night of February 11, 1823, the Two Brothers hit a shallow reef at French Frigate Shoals (nearly six hundred miles northwest of Honolulu in what is now the Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands.)

The ship broke apart in the heavy surf. Stunned by the disaster and by his horrible misfortune, Captain Pollard was reluctant to abandon the ship. The crew pleaded with their captain to get into the small boats, to which they clung for survival throughout the night.

The entire crew of Two Brothers was rescued by an accompanying ship, the Martha, and they headed back to Oʻahu.

In 2008, a team of NOAA maritime archaeologists made an exciting discovery at French Frigate Shoals. Following over three weeks of successful survey in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, the team began to explore for new shipwreck sites at French Frigate Shoals using tow board surveys in an area near a historic anchorage.

Within minutes of the first tow, the divers spotted a large anchor in approximately 15-feet of water. The age and size of this anchor gave the impression that it was not simply left as a mooring in an anchorage.

After snorkeling around in the area, the team came across the first clue that this site was more than a lone anchor: a blubber pot set into a hole in the reef top. This discovery initiated a larger survey of the area, and soon two more was found.

At the time, researchers did not know the identity of the find. Three whaling ships, all American vessels, have been reported lost at French Frigate Shoals: the South Seaman, wrecked in 1859; the Daniel Wood, wrecked in 1867; and the Two Brothers.

It wasn’t until May of 2010 when a small team was able to return to the site that maritime archaeologists began to believe they were indeed looking at the scattered remains of the Two Brothers.

During the 2010 inspection, the team uncovered more tools of whaling on the seafloor, including four more whaling harpoon tips (for a total of five), four whaling lances, ceramics, glass, and a sounding lead (among dozens of other artifacts) all dating to an 1820s time period.

The preponderance of evidence suggested to the team that they were looking at the Two Brothers, the only American whaler lost at French Frigate Shoals in the 1820s.

Pollard gave up whaling, though he was just in his mid-30s, and returned to Nantucket, Mass., where he became a night watchman – a position of considerably lower status in the whaling town than captain.

This and other American whaling ships lost in Papahānaumokuākea are the material remains of a time when America possessed over 700 whaling vessels and over one fifth of the United States whaling fleet may have been composed of Pacific Islanders.

The whaling shipwreck sites in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands help tell this part of Hawaiian and Pacific history, and remind us about the way that this remote part of the United States is connected with small communities in New England half way around the world.

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A sketch by Thomas Nickerson depicting the attack and sinking of the ship Essex-(NOAA)

Two-Brothers-Ginger-Jar-(NationalGeographic)

Two-Brothers-Cooking-Pot-(NationalGeographic)

Two-Brothers-Blubber-Hook-(NationalGeographic)

Two-Brothers-Anchor-(NationalGeographic)

The sinking of the Essex was the inspiration for Melville’s Moby-Dick

Two_Brothers-(sott-net)

French_Frigate_Shoals-(NOAA)

Site plan of the southern section of the Two Brothers shipwreck site completed 2010-(NOAA)

February 7, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Father Damon

“Samuel Damon … was known to sailors from all the Four Seas as Father Damon, pastor of the Seaman’s Bethel of Honolulu. The wife of Father Damon was the daughter of Samuel Mills of “Haystack Meeting” fame …”

“… one of the five young men who met and decided that they should go out into the world to advance the cause of Christianity among heathen people.” (Honolulu Times, December 1, 1909)

“Beloved by all – he and his wife always collecting & caring for the poor. Old whalers like him.” (Twain)

“Samuel Chenery Damon, chaplain of the American Seamen’s Friend Society and pastor of Bethel Union Church at Honolulu. His (wife) Julia Sherman Mills Damon, no less a tireless worker in Christ’s service, was first president of the Stranger’s Friend Society.” (Dye)

Damon came of Hawaii in 1842. On January 1, 1843 he began publication of the American Temperance Advocate, briefly called The Friend of Temperance & Seamen and then simply The Friend. (Twain)

Damon served as the chaplain at O‘ahu Bethel Church (Seamen’s Bethel) for 42 years, serving the sailors of vessels who entered the port of Honolulu.

“Beth-el” was designated as a refuge for sojourners. At that time more than 100 whaling vessels with approximately 6,000 sailors aboard entered the port of Honolulu annually.

Materials for the building had been contributed by several ship owners in Norwich and New London, Connecticut. A residence for the chaplain was also built nearby.

The chapel was of average size, measuring 48 feet by 30 feet. The main hall seated 300 persons; the basement had a reading room, a book depository, and a marine museum. Dedicated in 1833, the chapel stood until 1886. (Watson)

“Father Damon’s chief life-work has flowed in a different channel … Whereas their mission was emphatically to those Islanders who had never before heard the Gospel message, his was distinctively to the white settlers at Honolulu …”

“… but especially to the multitude of sailors from all lands who forty years ago flocked to the Hawaiian isles in very far larger numbers than at the present day, and many being wild and reckless, proved far more serious foes to mission-work than any which arose from mere indigenous heathenism.”

“In those days Honolulu was the winter rendezvous for the American whaling fleet, and about a hundred and fifty ships sometimes assembled here; bringing, of course, an immense influx of wild, undisciplined men.”

“Of those days Dr. Damon himself has said: ‘During the years between 1842 and 1867, at the lowest estimate, six thousand sailors annually entered the port, sometimes far more.’”

“‘I recollect one Sunday morning over thirty whale-ships and sixteen vessels of war rounded Diamond Head, besides all the merchant vessels. There could not have been less than ten thousand seamen during that year in the port of Honolulu.’”

“‘The Rev. S. E. Bishop reports from three to four thousand as visiting Lahaina, while the Rev. Titus Coan reports as many more, calling at Hilo.’” (Wesleyan-Methodist Magazine, August 1886)

“Leaving New York in March, 1842, he and his bride sailed for Honolulu, where he at once commenced work as pastor of the Bethel Chapel, which had been erected in 1833, and was the only place of worship for the English-speaking community.”

“Busy as was his life, he yet found time to care for all. Every traveller who has visited the isles can tell the same tale, of how ‘Father Damon’ was the first to welcome the coming, the last to speed the parting guest …”

“… and so he remains linked in the first and last Hawaiian memories of many a wanderer in distant lands, all of whom will assuredly endorse words spoken concerning him:”

“‘All will feel that the Honolulu they have known will not be Honolulu to them without Dr. Damon’s genial cordiality to give warmth and brightness to their enjoyment of its sunshine, and memories of bis courteous friendliness.” (Wesleyan-Methodist Magazine, August 1886)

“After a short but severe illness he passed away on the 7th of February (1885), carried off by inflammation of the brain, when within eight days of completing his seventieth year.”

“I believe that to many besides myself, it must have been a surprise to learn that he had so nearly attained the three-score years and ten …”

“… for he was so young-looking, and so full of unbounded energy, both physical and mental, and so eager to enlarge his work in a new field of usefulness, that, though he likewise was honoured with the affectionate title of ‘Father,’ it seemed as though he must belong to a younger generation than those of whom I have hitherto spoken.”

“His funeral was attended by His Majesty King Kalākaua, and various members of the Royal Family; also by the Anglican bishop and the majority of the Anglican congregation; for all the community have good reason to mourn the death of one of Honolulu’s noblest citizens.” (Wesleyan-Methodist Magazine, August 1886)

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Samuel_C._Damon_(PP-70-7-001)

Julia_Sherman_Mills_Damon_son_Samuel_Mills_ Damon_and_Samuel_Chenery_Damon-1850

The Seamen’s Bethel Chapel-1896

Bethel’s Church, Honolulu, Hawaii, founded in 1833 as Seamen’s Bethel Church

The_Friend_Building-approximate_location_of_Bethel_Chapel-926_Bethel_Street

January 31, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Keeping Up With The Joneses

In the 1820s, two notable men with the last name Jones were in the Islands. John Coffin Jones Jr (US Agent for Commerce and Seamen) and Thomas ap Catesby Jones (of the US Navy).

The first to arrive was John Coffin Jones Jr; he was appointed US Agent for Commerce and Seamen on September 19, 1820 and began to serve in October of 1820, at the port of Honolulu.

John Coffin Jones Jr was the only son of a prominent Boston businessman (in mercantile and shipping business) and politician. (John C Jones Sr served as speaker of the Massachusetts House of Representatives and was legislative colleague of John Quincy Adams (and one of the signors for Massachusetts of the Ratification of the US Constitution for that State.))

This Jones (also known in Hawaiian documents as John Aluli) became the ﬁrst ofﬁcial US representative in the Hawaiian Islands. His role was to help distressed American citizens ashore, both seamen and civilians, serving without salary from the US government and required to report on commerce in Hawai‘i.

(The post of commercial agent was raised to Consul effective July 5, 1844, and held by Peter A. Brinsmade, who had already been appointed commercial agent on April 13, 1838.)

Jones was already agent for the prosperous Boston firm of Marshall and Wildes (one of four American mercantile houses doing business in Honolulu,) and by accepting the additional responsibility from his country, the firm and he might hope that through his reports to Washington the voice of commerce in the Pacific would be heard more clearly by the US Government. (Hackler)

When Jones arrived, the sandalwood trade with China was still thriving. King Kamehameha I had monopolized, the cutting and exporting of sandalwood during his reign, but after his death in 1819, Kamehameha II was unable to enforce the conservation policies of his father, and unrestricted cutting of sandalwood soon threatened to deplete the hillsides of this rare wood.

But, while the wood lasted and the market held up in Canton, the American merchants in Honolulu competed fiercely with each other for the valuable cargoes, and pressed on the Hawaiians all sorts of goods which were to be paid for in sandalwood. (Hackler)

He was considered an advocate for commercial interests in Hawaiʻi and immediately collided with the missionary group led by Rev. Hiram Bingham. For the next couple of decades he contended for commercial advantages for the US. He set up his own trading firm in 1830 and made many voyages to California during the next ten years. (Kelley)

“Since the discovery of the whale fishery on the coast of Japan, and the independence of the republics of the western coasts of North and South America, the commerce of the United States at the Sandwich islands has vastly increased.”

“Of such importance have these islands become to our ships which resort to the coast of Japan for the prosecution of the whale fishery, that, without another place could be found, possessing equal advantages of conveniences and situation, our fishery on Japan would be vastly contracted, or pursued under circumstances the most disadvantageous.” (Jones, to Captain Wm B Finch, October 30, 1829)

As US Agent for Seamen, Jones had a burdensome responsibility. Many seamen were put ashore because of illness, and they became the special concern of Jones. This was a responsibility and an expense.

In his first report to the Secretary of State on December 31, 1821, Jones complained of the commanders of American ships who were in the habit of discharging troublesome seamen at Honolulu and taking on Hawaiian hands. (Hackler)

In addition, Jones reported to the Department that 30,000 piculs of sandalwood were sent to China in American ships that year, and estimated that the price for this wood in Canton should be about $300,000. The Hawaiian chiefs were becoming increasingly indebted to the American merchants in Honolulu and payment was slow in coming.

He wrote that the only solution was the posting of a US naval vessel at Honolulu, at least during the periods between March and May, and October and December, when the whalers gathered at the port. (Hackler)

The desertions, debt and disorder led to the arrival of the second Jones, Thomas ap Catesby Jones (the ‘ap’ in his name is a Welsh prefix noting he is ‘Thomas, the son of Catesby Jones.’)

Thomas was a Navy man; he received an appointment as a midshipman and joined the US Navy (at the time, 1805, it had only 29-vessels.) He moved up through the ranks. (Smith) He later fought in the War of 1812.

Growing concerns over treatment, safety and attitudes toward American sailors (and therefore other US citizens in the Islands) led the US Navy to send Jones to the Islands, report back on what he learned, banish the bad-attitude sailors and maintain cordial relations with the Hawaiian government.

“The object of my visit to the Sandwich Islands was of high national importance, of multifarious character, and left entirely to my judgment as to the mode of executing it, with no other guide than a laconic order, which the Government designed one of the oldest and most experienced commanders in the navy should execute”. (Jones, Report of Minister of Foreign Affairs)

“Under so great a responsibility, it was necessary for me to proceed with the greatest caution, and to measure well every step before it was taken; consequently the first ten or fifteen days were devoted to the study and examination of the character and natural disposition of a people who are so little known to the civilized world, and with whom I had important business to transact.”

“The Sandwich Islanders as legislators are a cautious, grave, deliberate people, extremely jealous of their rights as a nation, and are slow to enter into any treaty or compact with foreigners, by which the latter can gain any foot-hold or claim to their soil.”

“Aware of these traits in the character of the Islanders with whom I had to negotiate, I determined to conduct my correspondence with them in such a manner as at once to remove all grounds of suspicion as to the object and views of the American Government, and to guard against misrepresentation and undue influence”.

“(I also wanted to) give the Chiefs and others in authority, the means of understanding perfectly the nature of my propositions, I took the precaution to have all official communications translated into the Oahuan language, which translation always accompanied the original in English”.

“(B)y giving them their own time to canvass and consult together, I found no difficulty in carrying every measure I proposed, and could I have been fully acqainted with the views of my government, or been authorized to make treaties, I do not doubt but my success would have been complete in any undertaking of that character.” (Jones Report to Navy Department, 1827)

Jones resolved the sailor desertion issue, the chiefs agreed to pay in full the debts and then Jones negotiated ‘Articles of Arrangement’ noting the “peace and friendship subsisting between the United States and their Majesties, the Queen Regent and Kauikeaouli, King of the Sandwich Islands, and their subjects and people,” (later referred to as the Treaty of 1826, the first treaty signed by the Hawaiians and US.)

“Capt (Thomas ap Catesby) Jones, as a public officer, carefully sought to promote the interests of commerce and secure the right of traders, pressed the rulers to a prompt discharge of their debts, and negotiated articles of agreement with the government for the protection of American interests …”

“… in which Kaahumanu, as regent, is conspicuous; and secured for himself among the people the designation of ‘kind-eyed chief’ – a compliment falling on the ear of many of different classes”.

In contrast, by 1829, John Coffin Jones Jr seemed to have fallen out of favor with the Hawaiian rulers. At that time the King and the principal chiefs addressed a protest to Captain Finch of the USS Vincennes, accusing Jones of maltreating a native and lying about royal morals. (Hackler)

John Jones’ several marriages caused additional concern. He married Hannah Jones Davis, widow of his partner, William Heath Davis Sr, in 1823. Jones continued to live with Hannah but also lived with Lahilahi Marin, daughter of Don Francisco Marin, and had children by both. In 1838, he married Manuela Carrillo of Santa Barbara, California and deserted Hannah and Lahilahi.

In December, 1838, returning from one of his periodic business trips to California, he introduced Manuela as his wife. This apparently enraged Hannah Holmes Jones, who promptly petitioned the Hawaiian Government for a divorce on grounds of bigamy.

The charge was upheld by the King and led to his writing Jones on January 8, 1839, that “… I refuse any longer to know you as consul from the United States of America.” (Kamehameha III; Hacker)

John Jones left the Islands and settled in Santa Barbara in 1839 and continued as a merchant both in California and Massachusetts. He died on December 24, 1861, leaving his wife and six children. (Kelley)

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Honolulu_Harbor-USS_Dolphin-(Massey)-1826

January 2, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Marine Railway

“In September the Government granted to A. G. Benson, of New York, a contract to build a Marine Railway at Honolulu, to cost from $75,000 to $100,000, to take up ships of 800 tons burthen, in ballast. The monopoly was to continue for twenty years.”

“The site of the proposed railway, which was given by government to Benson, was at the foot of Maunakea street, now the fish market. But nothing was ever done, beyond signing the contract, it was understood for the want of funds”. (Saturday Press, April 22, 1882; Maly)

“Of the industries of Honolulu the operation of the Marine Railway is one of the most important in a variety of ways. It gives employment to much skilled labor, thus helping to keep a good class of people in the city. By a large consumption of shipbuilding material, the railway adds much directly to local trade”

“Its existence is a powerful inducement for shipping in these seas to call at this port for needed repairs; also for vessels trading between this and foreign ports to have works of renovation done here that, without such a convenience, they would require to go to San Francisco or elsewhere to have accomplished.”

“When it is considered that vessels while waiting for repairs are the means of circulating money from outside sources, in addition to the expenditure of the railway workmen’s wages in the shops, the importance of the work, in that respect alone, to the city needs no magnifying.”

“As a convenience for inter-island shipping, which was one of the main objects held in view by the projectors of the enterprise, the railway has been a boon of incalculable value. It would be needless to go into particulars to prove this manifest advantage of having such a work established in the chief port of the kingdom.”

“The Honolulu Marine Railway is a monument to the statesmanlike forethought, public spirit and enterprise of the Hon. Samuel G. Wilder.”

“In the year 1880 the Government of this kingdom, of which Mr. Wilder was Premier and Minister of the Interior, advertised in England, America, France and Sweden, for estimates from engineers for either a dry dock or marine railway at Honolulu.”

“Of all the responses received the estimates of Mr. Horace I. Crandall, forwarded through the Hawaiian Consulate of Boston, were accepted. In April, 1881, Mr. Crandall arrived here to make the necessary surveys.”

“After an examination of the harbor and its bottom he reported to the authorities that a stationary dry dock was impracticable, on account of the coral formation, that would form its floor, being so porous that it would be impossible to keep it dry, even at an enormous expense for pumping.”

“A floating dry dock was also out of the question on account of the circumscribed limits of the harbor. A marine railway was therefore decided upon by the Government, and Messrs. Wilder & Co. contracted to build it, the head of the firm having in the meantime retired from His Majesty’s Cabinet.”

“Of course, Mr. Crandall was selected as engineer, and in view of his record, particularly as a submarine engineer, it would indeed have been difficult to have found a better man.”

“In the year 1854, while living at New Bedford, Massachusetts, he invented an improved style of marine railway, since known as ‘Crandall’s Patent Marine Hallway.’”

“Up to the time he became known here, Mr. Crandall had built no less than twenty-three of these railways on the coasts of North and South America, from North Sydney in Nova Scotia to Buenos Ayres, Argentine Republic.”

“In addition to these works, he had built an important bridge on one of the Pacific Railway lines, and was for a time proprietary manager of a coal mine in Cape Breton, N. S.”

“He was also the author of many mechanical inventions of great utility, and is a relative of Mr. James Crandall, of the United States, the inventor of the famous and ingenious ‘Crandall’s Toys.’”

“The work of construction was begun on the railway on February 11th, 1882. A large amount of material for filling up the ground on the site being required, it was necessary to build a land railway from the spot to the base of Punchbowl.”

“This work was accomplished under the mechanical superintendence of Mr. James Lyle, who had been employed as foreman of the works.”

“He had been Mr. Crandall’s foreman, many years previous, in the construction of the Buenos Ayres marine railway, and also in later works of the same kind at other places.”

“Mr. Crandall came out in the same season from Canada, with a brigade consisting of two skillful divers, thirteen shipwrights accustomed to marine railway work, and one mechanical engineer. So expeditiously was the work forwarded that on the first day of January, 1881, the railway was ready for business.”

“The engines for the railway were made at Geo. Forester & Co.’s works. Liverpool, England, and all the wrought iron work, chains, etc., were made by Henry Wood & Co., Liverpool. Oregon forests provided the wood, the native woods being too heavy, as well as difficult to get and work.”

“The railway has a capacity for vessels of fifteen hundred tons with ballast. It cost in the neighborhood of one hundred thousand dollars to build.”

“Upon the completion of the railway it was leased for fifteen years from the Government by the Hon. Mr. Wilder. lie operated it successfully until Feb. of the present year, when, with the permission of the Government, he made a transfer of the lease to Messrs. Sorenson & Lyle, the latter having been superintendent of the works from the start.”

“Mr. Sorenson is the veteran master shipwright of this port, having been engaged in that business here for about 27 years. Many a gallant craft has he ‘hove down,’ when that was the only method in vogue here, and transformed from the condition or a more or less battered and fouled hulk to her original seaworthiness.”

“Mr. Lyle, his partner, has spent his whole life in shipyards and on dry-docks and marine railways. His father was a leading ship-builder in Nova Scotia, a country second to none for the class of wooden ships it sends forth, whoso sails speck every sea with whiteness.”

“Shipbuilding is therefore second nature to both members of the firm now operating the Honolulu Marine Railway.”

“Ample stocks of material are always at hand, and shipowners and masters sending vessels away from here for rehabilitation cannot possibly fare any better in obtaining the required services elsewhere.”

“Every facility is here provided for ship and boat building and repairing. As no slight guarantee to the safety of the works and the assurance of prompt service thereupon, the fact may be stated that from the beginning of operations to the present time there has been no mishap of any kind on the railway.”

“A thorough ship’s blacksmith, in the person of Mr. Hugh Munro, is employed at the works constantly, and his execution of any kind of ship’s forging cannot be excelled in workmanship. Then the Honolulu Iron Works can always, in an emergency, provide any ordinary metallic fittings of a ship, so that on the whole this port is exceedingly well equipped for repairing ships.”

A ‘Marine Railway’ “is an inclined railway, descending from a repairing shipyard into deep water. A heavy platform with high frames at the sides, called the cradle, slides upon series of rollers running in grooves in ironclad timber rails.”

“A system of chains connected with powerful steam winches is employed to let the cradle down into deep water and haul it up again. When the cradle is run out into a sufficient depth, the vessel to be hauled up is floated between the arms of the cradle.”

“Then a system of movable blocks, worked by cranks from the tops of the cradle frames, grasps the hull of the vessel, and the cradle and its burthen are drawn up high and dry.” (Daily Bulletin, August 14, 1885)

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Lyle and Sorenson’s ‘Marine Railway’-north_end_of_Kakaako-1885

Marine Railway-Bertram

December 26, 2018 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

Kauō

Kauō (Laysan Island) is the second largest land mass in the NWHI (1,015 acres) just behind Sand Island at Midway Atoll. It is about 1 mile wide and 1-1/2 miles long and roughly rectangular in shape (shaped like a poi board).

Laysan Island is a member of the Hawaiian archipelago situated 790 sea miles to the northwest of Honolulu, latitude 25” 2’ 14” N, longitude 170” 44’ 06” W.

The island has a maximum elevation of about 30 feet. A fringing reef surrounds the island protecting its shores from violent wave action. (Baldwin)

Kauō (egg) describes both the shape of this island and, perhaps, the abundant seabirds that nest here. The island also previously harbored five Hawaiian endemic land birds, of which two, the endangered Laysan finch and the endangered Laysan duck, still survive. (PMNM Management Plan)

The Laysan Millerbird, along with the Laysan Rail and Laysan Honeycreeper, went extinct in the early 20th century when Laysan Island was denuded by non-native rabbits. (PMNM)

The island’s easy access and large number of seabirds made it a base for traders of guano (bird droppings used as fertilizer) and feather harvesters in the late 1800s and early 1900s.

Although the practices were declared illegal, poachers killed hundreds of thousands of birds and caused dramatic changes in the island’s ecosystem. Remnants of guano piles remain from this era.

Rabbits released in the early 1900s devastated the island’s vegetation. These events caused a public outcry which led to the creation of the Hawaiian Islands Bird Reservation by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1909. (Dill)

The endangered Laysan duck, is the rarest waterfowl in the Northern hemisphere and has the smallest geographic range of any duck species in the world.

It once lived throughout the Hawaiian Archipelago but vanished from the main Hawaiian Islands with the arrival of rats around 800 years ago. They later disappeared from the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands except for a small population that existed in isolation on Laysan Island for more than 150 years.

In 1911, only 11 ducks were observed on Laysan Island. Today, under present management operations, there are over 707 Laysan ducks – 40 on Kure, 290 on Midway and 377 on Laysan Island. (PMNM)

In addition, approximately two million seabirds nest here, including boobies, frigatebirds, terns, shearwaters, noddies, and the world’s second-largest black-footed and Laysan albatross colonies. (PMNM Management Plan)

Laysan has a large saltwater lagoon occupying about one-fifth of the island’s central depression. It is well vegetated (except for its sand dunes) and contains a hyper-saline lake, which is one of only five natural lakes in the State of Hawai‘i. (PMNM)

Laysan has been protected as a bird reserve since 1909, introduced mammals have been extirpated, and the island has no infrastructure besides a small field camp. (USGS)

“The Hawaiian Islands Reservation was established by Executive order in 1909 to serve as a refuge and breeding place for the millions of sea birds and waders that from time immemorial have resorted there yearly to raise their young or to rest while migrating.”

“In 1909 a party of feather hunters landed on Laysan, one of the twelve islands comprising the reservation, and killed more than 200,000 birds, notably albatrosses, for millinery purposes.”

“Through the prompt cooperation of the Secretary of the Treasury, the revenue cutter Thetis, under the command of Capt. W. V. E. Jacobs, was dispatched to the island and returned to Honolulu in January, 1910, with 23 poachers and their booty, consisting of the plumage of more than a quarter of a million birds.”

“In the spring of 1911 a cooperative arrangement was effected with the University of Iowa … whereby an expedition was sent to Laysan, the largest and most important island of the group, to ascertain the present condition of the bird rookeries and to collect a series of birds for a museum exhibit.” (Wilson & Henshaw, Expedition 1911)

Here’s a link to the Google ‘Street View’ on Laysan Island.

https://goo.gl/63WGFK

While I was Chair at DLNR, we created State Refuge rules whose intent is “To establish a marine refuge in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands for the long-term conservation and protection of the unique coral reef ecosystems and the related marine resources and species, to ensure their conservation and natural character for present and future generations.” Fishing is prohibited.

This started a process where several others followed with similar protective measures. The BLNR unanimously adopted the State’s Refuge rules, President Bush declared it a Marine National Monument and UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site.

Some ask why we imposed such stringent limitations on use in this area. For me, it ended up being pretty simple; it is the responsibility we share to future generations, to allow them to see what it looks like at a place in the world where you don’t take something.

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