Images of Old Hawaiʻi

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Kahakuloa

There were several major population centers on the Island of Maui: Kahakuloa (West Maui) region; the deep watered valleys of Nā Wai ‘Ehā (Waiheʻe, Wai‘ehu, Wailuku and Waikapū;) the ‘Olowalu to Honokōhau region of Lāhainā; the Kula – ʻUlupalakua region and the Koʻolau – Hana region.  (Handy, Handy & Pukui)

Kahakuloa is a valley that sits between Nā Hono A Piʻilani, The Bays of Piʻilani (aka Honoapiʻilani – the six hono bays (uniting of the bays:) from South to North, Honokōwai (bay drawing fresh water), Honokeana (cave bay), Honokahua (sites bay,) Honolua (two bays), Honokōhau (bay drawing dew) and Hononana (animated bay) to the West) and Na Wai ʻEha to the East.

The importance of the region is reflected by the number of heiau that were reportedly present in precontact times.  There were a total of seven heiau that were recorded in the Kahakuloa area. These heiau included Hononana, Kaneaola, Kuewa, Keahialoa, Pakai, Waipiliamoo and Kukuipuka.  (Kukuipuka heiau was reported to have been a place of refuge for West Maui.) (Xamanek)

According to Handy the name Kahakuloa refers to a small and famous loʻi about one-half-mile inland in the bottom of Kahakuloa Valley.

This irrigated kalo patch belonged to the haku or lord of the land. Because of the isolation of the area, the haku became known as the “far away master” – ka haku loa.  Kahakuloa was “one of the most genuinely native communities still extant in the islands [with] a population of about 20 families, all Hawaiian and all taro planters.”   (Xamanek)

Descriptions differ on whether Kahakuloa is an ahupuaʻa or another type of land division.  The island (mokupuni that is surrounded by water) is the main division.  Islands were divided into sections within the island called moku; typically, there was a Kona on the lee side and one called Koʻolau on the windward side of almost every island.

These districts were further divided into ʻokana or kalana (smaller districts.)  The next subdivision of land is the ahupua’a, which has been termed the basic unit of land in the Hawaiian system.  Portions of ahupuaʻa were called ʻili.)

The region as Kahakuloa was known for extensive taro loʻi (irrigated taro cultivation.)  Here the taro that grew in the sacred patch of the aliʻi was reputed to be of great size. (Maly)  In addition, it was known for ʻUala (sweet potato cultivation.)

The Māhele land records indicate that much of the lands here were Crown lands with several properties going to Victoria Kamāmalu (daughter of Kīnaʻu, the wife of Kamehameha II) and a number of small awards were granted in the Kahakuloa Village region; many of these awards were granted for taro loʻi cultivation.

During the mid-1800s, a large portion of the surrounding region was used for sugar cane and macadamia nut agriculture, as well as extensive cattle grazing.

Haiku Fruit and Packing Co. utilized some lands in Kahakuloa to grow pineapple. Pineapple production in this part of Maui went into decline after the Great Depression in the 1930s and appeared to have ceased by the 1960s.

Kahakuloa is a small isolated village at the end of a valley – it is described to be a “cultural kīpuka that survived the onslaught of development after Hawaiʻi became a state.”  (McGregor)

Standing tall and overlooking the coastal shoreline is Kahakuloa Head, 636-feet high and known historically for a King Kahekili’s Leap.

During the late-18th century, Maui chief Kahekili, a rival of Kamehameha, was known for many legendary feats in the ancient Hawaiian sport of lele kawa (to leap feet first from a cliff into water without splashing.)  Legend says that in the early morning, the King would climb up the hill and “leap” into the ocean below from about the 200 foot height.

Access continues to be limited to this area (some suggest rental car agencies do not allow rentals to attempt to traverse the region.)

Coming from the West, you start on Honoapiʻilani Highway (Highway 30 – with ascending mile markers,) but as you travel through, the road transforms to Kahekili Highway (Highway 340 – with descending mileage markers.)

A lot of the way is single file on a single lane road – often without makai barriers.  There are hairpin turns, steep ocean-side drops and narrow one-lane sections.  Along the way are the Bell Stone, Olivine Pools and Nakalele Blowhole; in the valley is the Kahakuloa Congregational Church, founded in 1887.

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George Robert Carter

George Robert Carter was born on December 28, 1866 in Honolulu, his mother was Sybil Augusta Judd (1843–1906,) daughter of Gerrit P. Judd, and his father was businessman Henry Alpheus Peirce Carter.

“His grandfather was Oliver Carter, an American sea captain engaged in the whaling industry, who first came to Honolulu during one of his whaling voyages in the late twenties or early thirties of the last century, and settled here in the thirties.”  (Hawaiian Star, May 28, 1904)

“Carter went to school first in Nuʻuanu Valley … later he attended St. Alban’s College (forerunner to ʻIolani) and attended Fort Street School (which eventually became McKinley High School.)”  (Hawaiian Gazette, November 24, 1903)

From the Honolulu schools Carter went to Phillips Academy, Andover, Massachusetts, and graduating there in 1885, entered the Sheffield Scientific school of Yale University where he finished a three years’ course in 1888.”  (Hawaiian Gazette, November 24, 1903)

 “Carter, always took a healthy interest in athletic sports and while at Yale was a member of the Varsity football teams of ’86, ’87 and ’88 and was also a member of the Yale boat crews of ’87 and ’88.”  (Hawaiian Gazette, November 24, 1903)

He formed a rowing club with a few friends, including a friend from Hawaii Hiram Bingham III (my great uncle.) (Yale-edu)  (Hiram Bingham III married into the Tiffany fortune, taught history and politics, and on July 24, 1911 rediscovered the “Lost City” of Machu Picchu – and, reportedly, was the inspiration for the Indiana Jones character.)

Carter married Helen Strong, daughter of Eastman Kodak president Henry A Strong on April 19, 1892. They had four children: Elizabeth (born August 25, 1895), Phoebe (born September 27, 1897), a daughter who died on June 17, 1903, and George Robert, Jr. (born November 10, 1905).

In 1895 Carter returned to Hawaiʻi to become the cashier of C Brewer & Co., where his father had been a senior partner from 1862 to 1874. From 1898 to 1902, he helped organize and manage the Hawaiian Trust Company, and was managing director of the Hawaiian Fertilizer Company. In addition, he served as a director for Bank of Hawaii, C. Brewer and Alexander & Baldwin.

Carter was elected to the Hawaii Territorial Senate, representing Oʻahu, in 1901. While a territorial senator, he was sent to Washington as an unofficial agent to discuss territorial matters with President Teddy Roosevelt.

Roosevelt later appointed Carter Secretary of the Territory in 1902 and then Territorial Governor in 1903, succeeding Sanford B. Dole who resigned to become a federal judge (Carter was Governor from 1903 – 1907.)  (Yale-edu)

In 1905, during Carter’s administration, the current system of county governments was created; the five county governments (Oʻahu, Maui, Kauaʻi, Hawaiʻi and Kalawao) took effect on January 1, 1906. (Oʻahu County later became the City and County of Honolulu in 1909.)

In the late-1920s, Carter built ‘Lihiwai’ (water’s edge) with 26 major rooms and over 26,000-square feet under roof, it is reportedly “the largest and finest private residence ever constructed in Hawaiʻi (with the exception of ʻIolani Palace.)”  (NPS)

Two waterways (an ʻauwai and Nuʻuanu Stream) flow through the property, thus the property’s name.  You cross the ʻauwai over a coral bridge.

Completed in 1928 (and occupied by the Carters from 1928-1945,) the home was designed by Hardie Phillip (he was the architect for the Honolulu Academy of Arts (built at the same time (1927-28), and the C. Brewer and Co. Building (1929.))

The entire building is built of shaped bluestone set in concrete and steel reinforced cement, and all the perimeter walls are 2 – 3-feet thick with the exception of the end walls, which are 6-feet thick.

Originally, the building was connected to two smaller structures — by a breezeway on the eastern side and by the porte-cochere on the western side (these structures were separated in 1957.)

The roof over the front portion of the house is a double pitched hipped style roof made of flat Spanish terracotta tiles. The beams in the attic that support the roof are all steel I beams, and the hand carved eave beams (and supporting wood) are all teak. One concrete chimney rises from the roof and serves all 3 interior fireplaces.

The floors of the vestibule, downstairs foyer, upstairs foyer, upstairs hallways, and upstairs rear balcony are made of stone. The drawing room floors are ʻōhiʻa (ʻŌhiʻa lehua) parquet, and the formal dining room, music room, and upstairs bedrooms and guest suites have ʻōhiʻa strip flooring; slate is in other rooms.

The property was originally 10-acres, all professionally landscaped, but the estate was subdivided and sold in 1945 after the death of Helen Strong Carter. Today, the property includes the original house on a little over 1-acre.

Carter died February 11, 1933; he is buried at Oʻahu Cemetery.  (Lots of information from Yale-edu and NPS.)

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Maui, 1819

“We left Owhyhee on the 15th of August, at four in the morning, with a very light breeze, which, however, freshened up during the morning. We coasted along Taourae, a barren island, flat, and moderately elevated, on which was not the slightest appearance of vegetation.”

“The soil is reddish and furrowed at intervals. The island is desert and uninhabited; some breakers extend beyond its western point. On doubling this, we discovered the small rock of Morikini, from whose summit rises a lofty column of smoke, which would have induced us to suspect there was a volcano under it; the pilots on board, assured us, however; that this was not the case.”

“That part of the North-East coast of Mowhee which we were able to distinguish, appeared to me to be extremely barren; high mountains, separated by a neck of low land, divide it in two parts.”

“The Western coast is bold, and the volcanic rocks which rise above it are cut into sharp angles, forming deep ravines and frightful declivities.”

“When the clouds, which are driven by contrary winds rising from these caverns, and disputing their possession, float over the verdant summits of these mournful heights, the reflection of the light, and the lively tints bestowed on them by the sun, in contrast with the dark and stormy points of the horizon, form a landscape at once harmonious and terrific.”

“Some elevated springs, fed no doubt by the humidity contained in the surrounding vapours, give a degree of animation to these pointed rocks, which might almost be taken for the realm of the dead. The base of this mountain, which somewhat resembles our Canigou, is dry and barren, without the smallest trace of that verdure which crowns its summit.”

“As soon, however, as the South-West part of the island had been coasted for a little time, and we approached the North, a vigorous vegetation began to show itself, together with banana and other trees, which give life to the scene, and awaken pleasing sensations in the mind of the navigator.”

“From the perpendicular of the most lofty summit of the great mountain, to the North-West point of the island, and even beyond that, the country is quite delightful …”

“… so that it was with extreme pleasure we beheld the anchor drop in the harbour of Lahaina, that we might enjoy the prospect, which appeared the more brilliant, from the other objects that surround this part of Mowhee, as well as the isles which enclose its bay, being barren and repulsive.”

“A chain of breakers extends the whole length of the coast. The anchor is however cast at one or two cables’ length distance, without incurring the least danger, although sudden gusts of wind arise here frequently, and blow with great violence.”

“The group of islands which surrounds this bay will not permit the sea to run very high; and the bottom being very good, tends to banish every apprehension.”

“The observatory has been fixed on a small stone elevation, close to a house built of masonry, belonging to the King; richly tufted shrubs and beautiful cocoa-nut trees create an agreeable freshness.”

“While the astronomers are observing the heavens, let us range through the country; we shall certainly not find so much majesty there; but the variety and beauty of the scene will repay us with interest.”

“The environs of Lahaina are like a garden. It would be difficult to find a soil more fertile, or a people who could turn it to greater advantage; little path-ways sufficiently raised, and kept in excellent condition, serve as communications between the different estates.”

“These are frequently divided by trenches, through which a fresh and limpid stream flows tranquilly, giving life to the plantations, the sole riches of the country.”

“Hollow squares, of the depth of two, three, and sometimes four feet, nourish various sorts of vegetables and plants; amongst which we distinguish the Caribee-cabbage, named here taro; double rows of banana, bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, palma-christi, and the paper-mulberry trees intercept the rays of the sun, and allow you to walk at mid-day.”

“Every cabin has its enclosure, and every enclosure is well taken care of; it seems to suffice for the wants of the family.”

“Here, the father turns the ground with his long staff of red or sandal wood; there, the son clears the soil of weeds, and prepares the dinner; farther off the mother is seated at the door of her hut, and weaves the stuff with which she clothes herself, whilst her youthful daughter, unincumbered with drapery, is seated by her side, and tempts you by her unsophisticated caresses.”

“The space cultivated by the natives of Lahaina is about three leagues in length, and one in its greatest breadth. Beyond this, all is dry and barren; every thing recals the image of desolation.”

“Nevertheless, the soil and its resources are the same; whence therefore this apparently culpable neglect? It is a natural consequence of the mode of reasoning adopted by these people; they have all that is necessary at hand, what advantage would there be in seeking superfluities from afar? … Superfluities are thrown away on these people.”

“Twenty acres of land will not produce them a better dinner than their square of taro.”

“It is so rare to see ships put in here, that the hope of their arrival, and the ennui of disappointed expectation, would more than counterbalance all the advantages which they might procure by bartering.”

“Let us, therefore, leave these good people to their early habits and natural inclinations; why teach them desires and wants? If repose, comfort, tranquillity and pleasure constitute happiness, they are happy; what do they want more?”

“Would you propose to give them in exchange for these, interest, the love of glory, avarice, jealousy, and all the passions of which they are now ignorant, and which prevail in our wiser Europe? They will laugh at you, and, leaving you to your prejudices, return gaily to their own lowly huts.”

“I have here remarked the same customs, and the same tastes, the same gaiety and benevolence, as at Owhyhee. Are the natives of Woahoo equally happy?”

“During one of my late excursions, hearing loud cries proceeding from a small enclosure that I had just passed, several of my companions hastened with me to the spot, where we saw a young female seated on the ground, surrounded by about fifteen women, who were rubbing her with great violence, breaking forth at the same time into loud cries …”

“… approaching, with an air of sympathy, we inquired the cause of this general sorrow; their tears ceased, and they told us they were endeavouring to cure a sick person, whom these cries would restore to health: upon which, the lamentations recommenced with more ardour than ever.”

“With us, such a process would soon put an end to a patient; but here the louder the groans, the more efficacious the remedy. The most remarkable peculiarity in these scenes of desolation is, that when the parties are weary of crying, they become silent; then chat and laugh, and begin to roar in a moment after; such was the case in this instance.”

“These macerations, and some indigenous roots, are the only remedies in use here: surgery has not made greater progress than medicine; and I do not think the Bordeaux doctor will extend their progress greatly.”

“The tears shed for the restoration of this young sufferer, and for the death of Tammeamah, are the only ones I have seen flow in the Sandwich Islands. Have our own tears generally, or frequently, a source equally noble and innocent?”

All is from ‘Narrative of a Voyage Round the World’ by Jacques Arago (March 6, 1790 – November 27, 1855), a French writer, artist and explorer who joined Louis de Freycinet on his 1817 voyage around the world aboard the ship Uranie.

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Secret Mission on the Strategic Potential

In June 1872, Secretary of War William Belknap gave US Army Major-General John McAllister Schofield confidential instructions to investigate the strategic potential of having a presence in the Hawaiian Islands, and to examine its ports.

They “ascertained the defensive capabilities of their different ports, examined into their commercial facilities, and collected all the information in our power on other subjects in reference to which we ought to be informed in the event of a war with a powerful maritime nation”.

Schofield and Brevet Brig. Gen. BS Alexander left San Francisco on December 30, 1872 aboard the USS California and arrived in Honolulu on January 15, 1873. After having an audience with new King Lunalilo, the men examined the islands.

In Schofield and Alexander’s May 8, 1873 report, they found that, “There are many other so-called harbors, or places for anchorage, but they are mostly open roadsteads affording shelter only from certain winds, and they are all entirely incapable of being defended by shore batteries.”

“Even the harbor of Honolulu itself can not be defended from the shore. It is a small harbor lying seaward from the land and only protected from the sea by outlying coral reefs. “

“An enemy could take up his position outside of the entrance to the harbor and command the entire anchorage, as well as the town of Honolulu itself. This harbor would therefore be of no use to us as a harbor of refuge in a war with a powerful maritime nation.”

“With one exception there is no harbor on the islands that can be made to satisfy all the conditions necessary for a harbor of refuge in time of war.”

“This is the harbor of ‘Ewa,’ or ‘Pearl River,’ situated on the island of Oahu, about 7 miles west of Honolulu.” They went on to recommend that the US obtain a cession of Pearl Harbor, together with its shore for four miles back.

“From our examinations we are of the opinion that this island and the adjacent shore to the north and west of it afford the most advantageous location for a naval depot of supplies and equipment in all these waters. But there is not sufficient water at present for heavy vessels to enter this Pearl River harbor.”

“At the entrance to the harbor is a coral reef some 250 to 300 yards in width, with a depth of water of only 2 to 3 fathoms on the reef at low water.”

“This reef appears to extend around the island, being broken only at the entrance to Honolulu Harbor, and in fact we are informed that a platform of coral reefs fringe most of the shores of all the islands of the Hawaiian group, broken only in few places. “

“This coral found at the entrance to Pearl River is ‘dead;’ that is, it is not growing, and the reef is therefore not increasing in size. This ridge of coral forms a barrier or bar across the entrance to this harbor about 300 yards wide, measuring perpendicularly to the shore.”

“It is comparatively level on the top, from 2 to 3 fathoms of water over it at low tide. Its sides are vertical, or nearly so, the depth of water increasing in a few feet to 4 or 5 fathoms.”

“The outer, or sea side, then is found to be steeper than the inner, or shore side. At the distance of half a mile outside of the reef there is a depth of 15 fathoms, while at the same distance inside the reef the depth is only 8 fathoms.”

“If this coral barrier were removed Pearl River Harbor would seem to have all or nearly all the necessary properties to enable it to be converted into a good harbor of refuge.”

“It could be completely defended by inexpensive batteries on either or both shores, firing across a narrow channel of entrance. Its waters are deep enough for the largest vessels of war, and its ‘locks,’ particularly around Rabbit Island, are spacious enough for a large number of vessels to ride at anchor in perfect security against all storms.”

“Its shores are suitable for building proper establishments for sheltering the necessary supplies for a naval establishment, such as magazines of ammunition, provisions, coral, spars, rigging, etc., while the island of Oahu, upon which it is situated, could furnish fresh provisions, meats, fruits, and vegetables in large quantities.”

The report noted that while eager to open a free market for their sugar, the Hawaiian government and native Hawaiians were not interested in the US annexing the islands at that time.

They stated, “The cession of Pearl River could probably be obtained by the United States in consideration of the repeal of the duty on Sandwich Island sugar.”

“Indeed, the sugar-planters are so anxious for a reciprocity treaty, or so anxious rather for free trade in sugar with the United States, that many of them openly proclaim themselves in favor of annexation of these islands to the United States.”

“The members of the present Government of the Hawaiian Islands seem fully alive to the necessity of relieving their principal industry from the heavy burden under which it now suffers, and no other mode of relief seems possible but annexation or reciprocity.” (Schofield and Alexander, 1873)

In February 1873 the Honolulu Chamber of Commerce, representing the interests of the plantation owners among the Islands, petitioned King Lunalilo to negotiate a reciprocal treaty with the US mainland.

The suggestion was to offer to cede the Pearl River “lagoon” to the US as an inducement for reduced tariffs for Hawai‘i’s agricultural products. In July the American Minister notified Washington D.C. that the King had offered to negotiate a treaty on this basis.

However, four months later a notice appeared in the Hawaiian Gazette to the effect that the King was satisfied that “a treaty carrying with it the cessation of Pearl Harbor would not receive the legislative approval required by the Constitution of the Kingdom,” and hence the offer was withdrawn.

Apparently there was contention over the issue of “cessation” versus “lease” regarding access to Pearl Harbor. King Lunalilo died in February of the following year without an heir. At this point, politicians in Hawai‘i courted popularity with the masses by opposing any possible cession of territory to foreign powers. (Van Tilburg)

In 1875 the US signed a treaty with the Hawaiian government allowing the US free access to sugar and other Hawaiian products in return for land that eventually became the Pearl Harbor naval base.

The US later obtained exclusive use of the inlet and the right to maintain a repair and coaling station for ships. After the US annexed Hawaii in 1898, the US established a naval station at Pearl Harbor and began to build a naval ship yard.

John McAllister Schofield was a lieutenant general during the US Civil War who led his troops during such battles as Franklin and Nashville. After the war, Schofield served as Secretary of War under President Andrew Johnson and later served as Commanding General of the United States Army from 1888 to 1895.

After serving as Secretary of War, Schofield was promoted to major general in the Army, and then commander of the Military Division of the Pacific.

In 1908, Schofield Barracks was established next to the town of Wahiawā to provide defense of Pearl Harbor and the island of Oahu. Named in honor of John McAllister Schofield, it covers over 17,000 acres and is the largest Army post in Hawaii. Since 1941 it has been home to the 25th Infantry Division, known as the Tropic Lightning. (National Archives)

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Keaīwa Heiau

The name Keaīwa has been translated as mysterious or incomprehensible. Perhaps, this name refers to the fact that one could not explain the powers of the kahuna and the herbs used in healing.

“In this old society there was also a group of intelligentsia or experts. These were experts in all fields such as canoe-building, bird experts, fishing experts, etc. These experts were known as kahunas.”

“The top expert in the healing profession was known as the kahuna lapaau. He was the best-versed in herb knowledge and the most capable of alleviating suffering of people when they were sick. Recognized in the community as a man of parts, he was one of five chosen to be on the council of the top leader, the alii aimoku.”

“His training began in some instances at the time of his birth, when in some communities if certain things happened at the time of his birth, it was decided that the gods had decreed that this individual should become a kahuna lapaau.”  (John Desha; Larsen)

Keaīwa Heiau is a medicinal or healing heiau (temple) known as a heiau ho‘ola. At this site, the kahuna (priest, expert) specializing in healing would diagnose and treat various illnesses and injuries.

“The healing heiau was sacred above all others, for it gave life from God. Health was important, for without health the ‘land is worthless.’”

“The Hawaiians say that the art of the kahuna lapaau died out because ‘the sharp-tempered’ were never taught the art. Only the good and kind could be given the knowledge. There is no cure for a ‘sharp temper.’”

“The Hawaiians, in asking Ku and Hina to bless the plants being taken for medicine, always prayed aloud so the person for whom the medicine was intended would not become suspicious.” (George Kahoiwai; Larsen)

“The stones of the heiau lay in rows. Formerly the walls had measured nine feet high, but now they were only three to four feet in height and five to seven feet in width. The rocks, covered with verdant rust of time, were each a weathered gem. The time of the building of this ancient temple had long since disappeared in the mist of forgotten years.”

“The tall trees – mango, kukui, ironwood, Norfolk Island pine – stood up out of a jungled mass of hau trees like a close-formation honor guard. The rectangular enclosure of the shrine measured 168 feet in length and 94 in width. Across one end, and again along the south wall, were stone platforms about one foot high and six feet wide.”

“On these platforms had once stood certain structures, perhaps a tower, perhaps grass huts. The whole inner floor had been paved with flat stones, now showing only here and there.” (Larsen)

The kahuna would also train haumana (students) in the practice of la‘au lapa‘au, medicinal healing using plants, fasting, and prayers. Women were not allowed in the heiau but could receive training outside the heiau.

An apprentice learned the art of diagnosis by practicing on pebbles which a kahuna laid out on a mat in the form of the human body. Pupils learned in this way how to feel out with their fingers the symptoms of the various illnesses. It might take 15 years for a student to become fully trained in the art of healing.

Many of the plants and herbs were collected from the neighboring forest while others were planted around the heiau.

The heiau was badly damaged during World War II when soldiers camping nearby took many stones from the heiau to build a road. The heiau was “rededicated” in 1951 and an effort was made to re-establish the historical setting with plantings of medicinal plants.

“This medicinal temple known as Keaiwa Heiau at the top of Aiea Heights is so ancient that the history of its early construction is not known. It is called Keaiwa after the medicinal god of early times. The outer walls of the heiau were broken down when the adjacent land was subdivided into houselots. The stones were used for road-building and housebuilding.”

“Also the grass house where the god was placed was cut down for road development. What remains of this heiau is the inner platform. At one time this platform was over nine feet high. Again during World War II, much stone was removed from the heiau and used in various military constructions at that time.” (George Kahuiwai; Larsen)

Much of this area was replanted by foresters in the late 1920s. The lemon eucalyptus trees give the air a light citrus fragrance. Stands of Norfolk Island pine trees mark the lower end of the trail.

It is unknown when this heiau was built but one source suggests that it was constructed in the 16th Century by Kakuhihewa, an ali’i (chief) of Oʻahu, and his kahuna Keaīwa.

The 4-foot high stacked rock wall encloses the sacred area that measures 100 by 160 feet. Within the enclosure was a halau (large thatched structure) built for the master kahuna to store the medicinal implements and train the students. Other features might include hale (small thatched structure) and a puholoholo (steam bath).

The heiau is at the top of ‘Aiea Heights Drive at the Keaīwa Heiau State Recreation Area  and the ‘Aiea Loop Trail, a 4.8-mile trail that begins and ends in the park. This trail runs along the ridge on the west side of Halawa Valley and offers views from Pearl Harbor (Pu’uloa) and the Wai’anae Range to Honolulu and Diamond Head (Le’ahi).  (State Parks)

The following was published by Clarice B. Taylor in the 1950s; she got her information from several reliable sources, including Mary Kawena Pukui and Anne Peleioholani Hall.

Taylor wrote this entry entitled “Keaiwa Heiau, the Medical School.”  At the time the Keaiwa heiau at the top of Aiea Heights was discovered in 1951 to be the ruins of an ancient medical center, few Hawaiians knew of its ancient usage.

Eminent anthropologists acknowledged that they had never heard of such centers but were convinced when several Hawaiians independently told of them.

In telling of these centers, Mrs. Mary Kawena Pukui, associate in Hawaiian culture at the Bishop Museum, translated the name Ke-a-iwa as “Incomprehensible.”

The thought being that no one could explain the powers of the priests or the herbs used in healing.

She said Ke-a-iwa came from an obsolete word aiwa-iwa which means the mysterios or the incomprehensible.

Further confirmation of the use of Ke-a-iwa has lately been given to me by Paul Keliikoa, a Hawaiian livingin Aiea. Mr. Keliikoa has the story from his grandmother Kamoekai.

In her day Ke-a-iwa was interpreted as “a period of fasting and meditation” and the heiau was so named because novitiates in the art of healing spent long hours in fasting, praying and meditation.

Kamoekai also told her grandson that the very young were taken to Ke-a-iwa to be trained as kahuna lapaau. There they were taight the prayers needed to compound medicines and heal the sick. They cared for the great herb gardens which lay beyond the heiau walls.

After the novice learned his first steps in the art of the kahuna lapaau, he was sent out to other medicinal centers to learn the advanced art of diagnosis and other treatments.

Mr. Keliikoa’s interpretation of the name means a change in the pronounciation. Not Ke-a-iwa,but Ke-ai-wa. Ke-ai is the Hawaiian word for fasting. (Clarice B. Taylor, “Tales About Hawaii,” The Saturday Star-Bulletin, February 28, 1959) (KS) (Information is from State Parks, Larsen, Kamehameha Schools)

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