Place Names | Page 111 | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

March 31, 2018 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Kalanimōku Meets the Missionaries

“On the 31st of March (1820), a considerable number of the natives came off to our vessel, from the shores of Kohala, to dispose of their little articles of barter, and to look at the strangers.”

“Their manoeuvres in their canoes, some being propelled by short paddles and some by small sails, attracted the attention of our little group, and for a moment, gratified curiosity”.

“On the 1st of April, as we were abreast of Kawaihae, Kalanimōku and his wives, and Kalākua (subsequently Hoapiliwahine) and her sister Nāmāhāna (sometimes Opi‘ia), two of the widows of the late king, came off to us with their loquacious attendants, in their double canoe. It was propelled with spirit, by eighteen or twenty athletic men.”

“Having over their heads a huge Chinese umbrella, and the nodding kahilis or plumed rods of the nobility, they made a novel, and imposing appearance as they drew near our becalmed Mission Barque, while we fixed on them, and their movements, our scrutinizing gaze.”

“As they were welcomed on board, the felicitous native compliment, aloha (good-will, peace, affection), with shaking hands, passed between them, and each member of the mission family, Captain Blanchard and others.”

“Their tall, portly, ponderous appearance seemed to indicate a different race from those who had visited the vessel before, or a decided superiority of the nobility over the peasantry. Their weight has I think been overrated.”

“The younger brother of these queens, on coming to maturity, balanced in the scales two peculs of their sandal wood, 266 2/3 lbs. – This was about the weight of Kalanimōku, and may be regarded as the average weight of the chiefs of the islands, male and female.”

“Kalanimōku was distinguished from almost the whole nation, by being decently clad. His dress, put on for the occasion, consisted of a white dimity roundabout, a black silk vest, yellow Nankeen pants, shoes, and white cotton hose, plaid cravat, and fur hat.”

“One of the bare-footed females of rank, soon threw off her printed cotton gown, to which she was unused, retaining a gingham shirt, and the customary Hawaiian robe for a female of rank.”

“This consisted of ten thicknesses of thin unwoven bark cloth, three or four yards in length, and thirty inches in breadth, laid together, and tacked by single stitches, at several places, through the upper edge.”

“It is worn by being wrapped several times round the middle, and having the upper or stitched edge turned over a little on the hip, to confine the outer end, and keep the whole from falling off. It would be difficult to say which party was most impressed with the novelty of the objects they beheld.”

“Kalanimōku was much attracted by the kamali‘i keokeo [white children], and all were struck with the first appearance of civilized women.”

“Happy in so early and pleasant an introduction to personages of so much influence, we were assiduous in our efforts to impress them favorably, making them acquainted with our business, and our wish to reside in the country.”

“But, notwithstanding our solicitude to obtain Kalanimōku’s assent at once, he referred us to the king. As a token of friendship and confidence, he presented us a curiously wrought spear, a signal, we hoped, that their weapons of war were soon to be converted into implements of husbandry, and their warriors enlisted as soldiers of the Lord Jesus Christ.”

“Near sunset, our distinguished guests took leave and returned to the shore on their state vehicle – their double canoe, seated on a light narrow scaffolding which rested on the semi-elliptical timbers by which two large parallel canoes, each neatly carved from a tree, are yoked together, five or six feet apart. …”

“The next morning our brig being in Kawaihae bay, I made my first visit on shore, landed on the beach near where Keōua and his companions had been murdered, and called on Kalanimōku at his thatched hut or cottage in that small uninviting village.”

“With him, I visited Puukahola, the large heathen temple at that place, a monument of folly, superstition and madness, which the idolatrous conqueror and his murderous priests had consecrated with human blood to the senseless deities of Pagan Hawaii.”

“This monument of idolatry, I surveyed with mingled emotions of grief, horror, pity, regret, gratitude, and hope; of grief and horror at the enormities which men and devils had perpetrated there before high heaven;”

“… of pity and regret that the victims and many of the builders and worshippers, had gone to their account without the knowledge of the Gospel, which ought to have been conveyed to them;”

“… of gratitude, that this strong-hold of Satan had been demolished and the spell around it broken; and of hope, that soon temples to the living God would take the place of these altars of heathen abomination.”

“After this brief survey of this part of the field, Kalanimōku, his wives, and two of the widows of Kamehameha, embarked with us; and as we together proceeded toward Kailua, the residence of the king …”

“… we engaged in public worship, and dwelt with pleasure on the glorious theme, the design of the Messiah to establish his universal reign, and to bring the isles to submit to him, and rejoice in his grace, as indicated by the language of the Prophet Isaiah, ‘He shall not fail nor be discouraged till he have set judgment in the earth, and the isles shall wait for his law.’” (Hiram Bingham)

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March 30, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Snow Play

“(A)t early morning, March 30th (1820), to the joy of our expecting little company, the long looked for Hawaii appeared in the West. The lofty Mauna Kea lifted its snow crowned summit above the dark and heavy clouds that begirt its waist.”

“As we approached, we had a fine view of about sixty miles of the NE coast of the island – the districts of Hilo, Hāmākua, and part of Kohala; and as the sun shining in his strength dissipated the clouds, we had a more impressive view of the stupendous pyramidal Mauna Kea …”

“… having a base of some thirty miles, and a height of nearly three miles. Its several terminal peaks rise so near each other, as scarcely to be distinguished at a distance.”

“These, resting on the shoulders of this vast Atlas of the Pacific, prove their great elevation by having their bases environed with ice, and their summits covered with snow, in this tropical region, and heighten the grandeur and beauty of the scene …”

“… by exhibiting in miniature, a northern winter, in contrast with the perpetual summer of the temperate and torrid zones below the snow and ice.” (Bingham)

Such was the first impression of Hiram Bingham as the Pioneer Company of American Protestant missionaries first approached and landed in the Islands. He later (September, 1830) visited the summit region with Kauikeaouli, King Kamehameha III.

“(T)he king set out with a party of more than a hundred, for an excursion further into the heart of the island, and an ascent to the summit of Mauna Kea. To watch over and instruct my young pupil, and to benefit my health, I accompanied him.”

“(C)rossing over to Kawaihae with my family, we ascended at evening to the new inland station. When we had escaped from the oppressive heat on the shore, and reached the height of about 2000 feet, we were met by a slight rain and a chilly wind, which made our muscles shiver, though covered with a cloak, as we came within some twenty-five miles of the snows of the mountain.”

“The rain and clouds passed away as we approached the place of the sojourn of Mr. Ruggles and Dr. Judd. The full-orbed moon looked serenely down from her zenith upon the hoary head of Mauna Kea, and the ample and diversified scenery around.”

“The babbling brook, the sound of a small cataract in a glen, the rustling in the tops of the trees, at a little distance, the scattered huts of the natives in the settlement, while their occupants were hushed at midnight …”

“… and the hospitable light of a fire and lamp, beaming from a glass window of the missionary cottage pitched near the north side of the plain, over against Mauna Kea, which appeared in its grandeur …”

“… all contributed to awaken peculiar emotions, and called forth the aspiration, ‘May the Gospel and the Spirit of God dwell here, and the wilderness and the solitary place be glad for them.’”

“The excursion occupied nearly five days, though it might have been accomplished much sooner. Crossing in a southerly direction the plain of Waimea, some on horseback and some on foot, the party ascended a small part of the elevation of the mountain, and being in the afternoon enveloped in dense fog, they halted and encamped for the night.”

“The next day they passed over the western slope of the mountain to the southern side thence eastward along a nearly level plain, some seven thousand feet above the level of the sea, to a point south of the summit, and encamped out again, in the mild open air.”

“In the course of this day’s journey, the youthful king on horseback, pursued, ran down, and caught a yearling wild bullock, for amusement and for a luncheon for his attendants. A foreigner lassoed and killed a wild cow.”

“The next day was occupied chiefly in ascending in a northerly direction, very moderately. Our horses climbed slowly, and by taking a winding and zigzag course, were able, much of the way, to carry a rider.”

“Having gained an elevation of about ten thousand feet, we halted and encamped for the night, in the dreary solitudes of rocks and clouds. When the night spread her dark, damp mantle over us, we found ourselves in the chilly autumnal atmosphere of the temperate zone of this most stupendous Polynesian mountain.”

“Below us, towards Mauna Loa, was spread out a sea of dense fog, above which the tops of the two mountains appeared like islands.”

“We found it a pretty cold lodging place. … In the morning we proceeded slowly upwards till about noon, when we came to banks of snow, and a pond of water partly covered with ice.”

“In his first contact with a snow bank, the juvenile king seemed highly delighted. He bounded and tumbled on it, grasped and handled and hastily examined pieces of it, then ran and offered a fragment of it in vain to his horse.”

“He assisted in cutting out blocks of it, which were wrapped up and sent down as curiosities to the regent and other chiefs, at Waimea, some twenty-eight miles distant.”

“These specimens of snow and ice, like what are found in the colder regions of the earth, excited their interest and gratified their curiosity, and pleased them much; not only by their novelty, but by the evidence thus given of a pleasant remembrance by the youthful king.”

“After refreshing and amusing ourselves at this cold mountain lake, we proceeded a little west of north, and soon reached the lofty area which is surmounted by the ‘seven pillars’ which wisdom had hewed out and based upon it, or the several terminal peaks near each other, resting on what would otherwise be a somewhat irregular table land, or plain of some twelve miles circumference.

“Ere we had reach’d the base of the highest peak, the sun was fast declining and the atmosphere growing cold. The king and nearly all the company declined the attempt to scale the summit, and passing on to the north-west crossed over, not at the highest point, and hastily descended towards Waimea.” (Hiram Bingham)

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March 29, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Wai‘oli Mission

In 1834, the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions (ABCFM) sent Reverend William P Alexander to scout the north coast of Kauai for a suitable location for a second station (the first started in 1820 at Waimea.)

A pole and thatch meetinghouse was constructed by Hawaiians on the Mission Hall site, in anticipation of the arrival of the missionaries.

Alexander chose the Hanalei area because of its harbor, fertile soil, and needs of the people. The site was called Waioli, ‘Singing Waters.’

Deborah Kapule, the dowager Queen of Kauai and earnest convert, assisted in establishing the Mission. Governor Kaikioewa of Kauai provided the land, and encouraged the Mission in many ways.

The first thatch church was destroyed by fire in 1834, just prior to the arrival of the Alexanders. He immediately built another similar structure.

Alexander and his wife and son began work immediately, preaching to hundreds of islanders in a huge thatched meeting house while living in a small grass hut. They began their secular teaching also, and could soon report that 1,232 of their students could read and 257 could write.

The Alexanders carried on alone with their work until 1837 when the Board of Commissioners sent a teaching couple, Mr. and Mrs. Edward Johnson, to the mission. In the meantime, the Alexanders built a frame house for their growing family.

The Johnson’s took over the bulk of the teaching duties and began to place more of an emphasis on educating the children rather than the adults. (Alexander had earlier noted a drop in enthusiasm for schooling among the older parishioners.)

To help make ends meet, the mission planted crops in land donated by the Governor of Kauai. The students helped cultivate the crops, and by so doing, learned agricultural techniques. Cotton was tried without much success. Sugar cane proved much more suitable.

In 1838, a frame house was built for the Johnsons, as their grass hut had fallen victim to the elements. Plans were also made for the construction of a frame church/meeting house. Materials were collected, and the sugar crop was earmarked to help pay construction costs. (NPS)

In 1841, Rev. Alexander dedicated the present old Waioli Hui‘ia Church. Shortly after the church was dedicated, a belfry was constructed behind the main structure. Its architecture is similar, and it stands twenty-four feet in height.

The old Church is an imposing structure, with a main interior space of 35 by 70 feet. An open lanai (porch) surrounds the building on three sides, with wood posts supporting the eaves of the tall, high-pitched roof.

The pitch is broken over the plate line with a lesser slope above the lanai. This type of roof is a modified copy of the type of roof used in early Hawaiian structures. The original roof was thatch, later replaced by shingles then galvanized iron, then back to shingles, which now cover it.

In 1843, the Alexanders were transferred to the Lahaina station due to illness, and Rev. and Mrs. George Rowell took their place. In the meantime, Mr. Johnson, concerned about the slowness of the Lahainaluna High School in turning out native teachers, began classes of his own to train them.

Additional land was cultivated to meet expenses. Shortly after this, the Hawaiian government began to take more control of education, and Wai‘oli Mission School became a ‘select school.’

One feature of this was that the most promising students were taught English. Wai‘oli sent several students to the Lahainaluna High School for advanced education, and many trained by Mr. Johnson took over teaching duties in the common schools on Kauai.

In 1846, Rowell and his wife were transferred to Waimea and Johnson was licensed to become the minister at Wai‘oli. Mr and Mrs Abner Wilcox and their four boys were sent from O‘ahu to take over the teaching duties.

Wilcox was to “raise up teachers for the common schools of the island and to prepare those who may go from our Island to the High School”.

While carrying out his teaching duties, he also managed the growing agricultural enterprises of the mission, which by now included taro, yams, potatoes, beans, corn, and bananas. The produce was sold to passing vessels to help the mission meet expenses.

By mid-century, most of the people in the Islands had received some sort of Christian instruction, and they were further advanced in the eyes of the missionaries than any other Pacific islanders.

Because of this, the ABCFM began to withdraw support of the Hawaiian Missions. In 1863, they transferred the Sandwich Islands Mission to the Hawaiian Evangelical Association. (NPS)

As the center of mission activities on the Hanalei side of Kauai, Wai‘oli Church and Mission House played an important role in the history of that part of the island.

Presently, the old Waioli Church is the oldest (1841) church on the Island of Kauai and the whole mission complex is retained in excellent, livable condition despite its age and the deteriorating effects of the weather on Kauai. It was later used as a social hall.

In 1912, a new Wai‘oli Church building was given by three sons of Abner Wilcox; Sam, George and Albert. This shingled church, built in the American Gothic architectural style, has a belfry tower which houses the old Mission Bell.

This bell was rung throughout the years, calling people to worship. In 1921 the Wilcox descendants restored the Mission House and the Mission Hall.

The Wai‘oli Church grew under the guidance of the Hawaiian ministers. By 1945, the Wanini Church and the Ha‘ena Church had joined the Wai‘oli Church to form the Wai`oli Hui‘ia Church. (Hanalei Church)

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Old Waioli Church

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March 27, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Mokapu

The Hawaiian name for Mokapu is believed to be a contraction of Moku kapu, or ‘sacred island.’

Mokapu is a roughly 10-acre island located approximately 0.7 miles off the north coast of Molokai just east of the Kalaupapa Peninsula.

Mokapu rises steeply out of the water to 360-feet above sea level, ending in a narrow summit ridge.

Like the nearby islands of Okala and Huelo, Mokapu supports some of the most diverse native coastal plant communities in Hawai’i. For example, Mokapu contains 29 native plant species; several of these species are rare and vulnerable to extinction.

The island is dominated by native shrubs, but retains small groves of native lama trees, some native palm trees, which dominate
nearby Huelo, and 11 of the last 14 individuals of the shrub hoawa that is endemic to Molokai.

Mokapu is one of the many offshore islets that form the Hawai‘i State Seabird Sanctuary, created to protect the thousands of seabirds who seek refuge in and around the main Hawaiian Islands.

The majority of seabird-nesting colonies in the main Hawaiian Islands are located on the offshore islands, islets and rocks.

The sanctuary, administered by DLNR’s Division of Forestry and Wildlife, exists to protect not only seabirds but also endangered native coastal vegetation.

These sanctuaries protect seabirds, Hawaiian Monk seals, migrating shorebirds, and native coastal vegetation.

These small sanctuary areas represent the last vestiges of a once widespread coastal ecosystem that included the coastlines of all the main Hawaiian Islands. (DLNR)

“It is prohibited for any person to land upon, enter or attempt to enter, or remain in any wildlife sanctuaries …” Regardless, landing by boat is nearly impossible due to the lack of a safe beach.

Like the nearby islands of Okala and Huelo, Mokapu supports some of the best native coastal plant habitat in Hawai‘i, with 29 native plant species, several of which are rare and vulnerable. (DOFAW)

Historical uses of the island are unknown although rock mound structures are present on the ridgeline of Mokapu. However, the nature and source of these rock structures are unknown.

The difficulty of accessing Mokapu by water and the steepness of its slopes make it unlikely that it was visited often in the past and there are no known human uses of terrestrial areas today.

However, there is fishing along the north shore of Molokai, including areas near Mokapu. Fishing is primarily during the summer since winter seas are often very rough. (DOFAW)

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Mokapu (right)-AMNWR

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Mokapu AMNWR

Mokapu Island, Okala Island, and Leina o Papio Point (from left to right)-Suominen

Huelo Okala Mokapu Islets Waikolu Valley North Shore, Molokai-Forest & Kim Starr

Mokalu, Huelo Okala Islets Waikolu Valley North Shore, Molokai-Thomas

Mokalu, Huelo Okala Islets Waikolu Valley North Shore, Molokai-Forest & Kim Starr

March 21, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kahili

The legendary history of Kauai “is the most unsatisfactory to whoever undertakes to reduce the national legends, traditions, and chants to some degree of historical form and sequence. The legends are disconnected and the genealogies are few ….”

“That the ruling families of Kauai were the highest tabu chiefs in the group is evident from the avidity with which chiefs and chiefesses of the other islands sought alliance with them. They were always considered as the purest of the ‘blue blood’ of the Hawaiian aristocracy ….”

“But of the exploits and transactions of most of the chiefs who ruled over Kauai during this period, there is little preserved to tell.” (Fornander)

“Hilltops are favorable sites for making an imposing structure with the minimum of labor. The sides of the hill are usually faced to the desired height, and the top, possibly artificially leveled, is paved with stones.” (Bennett)

“A few miles to the west of Koloa is a mountain, called by the natives Kahili (feather standard, symbolic of royalty); why this name I know not, as the most imaginative fancy could not detect a resemblance in any particular between the two. In fact, it differs so little from its neighbors, that it would attract but a partial glance, or be noted only as an interesting feature in the general landscape. Then why all these words about it, one will be inclined to ask. … ”

“In fact, it differs so little from its neighbors, that it would attract but a partial glance, or be noted only as an interesting feature in the general landscape.”

“Then why all these words about it, one will be inclined to ask. I will tell.”

“Simply because it was my fortune one day to ascend it, in company with some friends; and being much gratified with the excursion, I wish to take the reader up with me, as well as pen and ink will allow.” (Jarves)

“On Kahili peak, on the ridge between Koloa and Lihue at an elevation of 3000 feet is a structure that may have served as a fort.” (Bennett)

Kikuchi “would suggest that this was a shrine of unknown function. Its position and elevation command a clear view of the southern shore of Kauai as well as the lands to the east. Its size would limit the number of people on the site and the posts may be an alignment for ‘astronomical’ and ceremonial determination.”

“Mouna Kahili, which we shortly reached, we ascended on foot, following up the back-bone of the spur which leads to the very summit. As it was steep and slippery, owing to the smooth grass, our progress at first was slow, and our knees soon began to tremble, and no doubt, as far as they were concerned, wished they had not come.”

“Ascending higher, the mountain gradually becomes more densely wooded, and the spur narrower, until its breadth is scarcely two feet, presenting a sharp ridge, bordered on either side by precipices of several hundred to some thousand feet in depth.”

“These precipices are overgrown with vegetation, sparse towards the top, where the banks are too steep for soil to accumulate, but gradually growing denser until it reaches the bottom, where they terminate in dells crowded with groves of dark-leaved hail, the silvery-leaved kukui, and the stately ohia with its beautiful red flowers, contrasting finely to the various shades of surrounding green.” (Jarves, 1841)

“After groping our way in this fashion for an hour or more, we reached the summit. It consisted of a small plot of earth about a rod square, bare in the centre, but overgrown with stout trees upon its sides.”

“Upon it were several large timbers, of a foot in diameter, standing perpendicular, and about twelve feet high, with notches for foot-hold cut in them.”

“These, as runs the legend, have stood from time immemorial, that is to say, some half century or more, and are the remains of a fortification which a chief erected, who lived on bad terms with his less elevated neighbors.”

“As the approaches to its site are a succession of narrow ridges, a few warriors were able to set a host of enemies at defiance, and make the place impregnable.” (Jarves)

“In 1915 this structure was examined by Mr. John FG Stokes and Mr Charles Dole in behalf of Bishop Museum. Mr. Dole reported that an area 12 feet by 27 feet has been leveled off the top of the peak at least to decomposed rock, but much cutting in solid rock is improbable.”

“Instead of several long posts, 1 foot in diameter, reported by Jarves, Stokes and Dole found one post 13 feet 2 inches high, and 11 inches in diameter, and smaller ones 3.5, 1.75, 1.2 5, and 0.75 feet high, and 6 to 8 inches in diameter.”

“The posts are of kauila wood which is said to have come from the mountains back of Waimea. If so, great labor must have been expended in dragging them up the steep ascent. The only artificial work mentioned are notches on the large post. Reports of carving were not substantiated. An adz and several waterworn stones (not sling stones) were found on this platform.”

“The function of this structure is uncertain as it is not mentioned in native traditions. As the position gives a commanding view in clear weather, Mr. Stokes suggests that it may have served as a lookout: but Mr. Dole reports that the peak is usually surrounded by clouds.”

“The suggestion of Jarves that the site was the home of a robber chief seems improbable in view of the climatic conditions.”

“By some it has been considered a funeral pyre on which the bodies of the chiefs were left to decompose. The difficulties attending the construction of such a site implies that it was built by some powerful chief who could command the labor.” (Bennett)

“The function of the site is not very clear from these descriptions. Jarves and Stokes’s suggestion that the site was the home of a robber chief or a lookout is improbable because of the harsh climate of the area. The site is often covered with clouds, drenched with rain, and in a very windy, cold place.”

“Could the site be the “funeral pyre” of a chief? Hawaiian custom prohibit cremation except for violators of certain taboos. A large fire at this location would have been a most difficult labor and if it did occur, the evidence of scorching of the posts would have been noted.”

“The use of the site as a funeral platform is a possibility, but nothing in the descriptions would point to this as a function. Such a use of the site would have been recorded in local legends.”

“One thing is sure: that the site was of importance and must have been ‘financed’ by a person of high status. The labor required to cut the kauila logs, to transport them up the steep slope to the site, and finally to place them into holes cut into the bedrock was most demanding.” (Kikuchi)

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