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March 21, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Before the Ala Wai

Waikīkī was once a vast marshland whose boundaries encompassed more than 2,000-acres (as compared to its present 500-acres we call Waikīkī, today).

The name Waikīkī, which means “water spurting from many sources,” was well adapted to the character of the swampy land of ancient Waikīkī, where water from the upland valleys would gush forth from underground.

Three main valleys Makiki, Mānoa, and Pālolo are mauka of Waikīkī and through them their respective streams (and springs in Mānoa (Punahou and Kānewai)) watered the marshland below.

As they entered the flat Waikīkī Plain, the names of the streams changed; the Mānoa became the Kālia and the Pālolo became the Pāhoa (they joined near Hamohamo (now an area mauka of the Kapahulu Library.))

While at the upper elevations, the streams have the ahupuaʻa names, at lower elevations, after merging/dividing, they have different names, as they enter the ocean, Pi‘inaio, ‘Āpuakēhau and Kuekaunahi.

The Pi‘inaio (Makiki) entered the sea at Kālia (near what is now Fort DeRussy as a wide delta (kahawai,) the ‘Āpuakēhau (Mānoa and Kālia,) also called the Muliwai o Kawehewehe (“the stream that opens the way” on some maps,) emptied in the ocean at Helumoa (between the Royal Hawaiian and Moana Hotels).

The Kuekaunahi (Pālolo) once emptied into the sea at Hamohamo (near the intersection of ‘Ōhua and Kalākaua Avenues.) The land between these three streams was called Waikolu, meaning “three waters.”

The early Hawaiian settlers gradually transformed the marsh into hundreds of taro fields, fish ponds and gardens. Waikiki was once one of the most productive agricultural areas in old Hawai‘i.

Beginning in the 1400s, a vast system of irrigated taro fields and fish ponds were constructed. This field system took advantage of streams descending from Makiki, Mānoa and Pālolo valleys which also provided ample fresh water for the Hawaiians living in the ahupua‘a.

From ancient times, Waikīkī has been a popular surfing spot. Indeed, this is one of the reasons why the chiefs of old make their homes and headquarters in Waikīkī for hundreds of years.

Waikīkī, by the time of the arrival of Europeans in the Hawaiian Islands during the late eighteenth century, had long been a center of population and political power on O‘ahu.

The preeminence of Waikīkī continued into the eighteenth century and is illustrated by Kamehameha’s decision to reside there after taking control of O‘ahu by defeating the island’s chief, Kalanikūpule.

Following the Great Mahele in 1848, many of the fishponds and irrigated and dry-land agricultural plots were continued to be farmed, however at a greatly reduced scale (due to manpower limitations.)

In the 1860s and 1870s, former Asian sugar plantation workers (Japanese and Chinese) replaced the taro and farmed more than 500-acres of wetlands in rice fields, also raising fish and ducks in the ponds.

By 1892, Waikīkī had 542 acres planted in rice, representing almost 12% of the total 4,659-acres planted in rice on O‘ahu.

However, drainage problems started to develop in Waikīkī from the late nineteenth century because of urbanization, when roads were built and expanded in the area (thereby blocking runoff) and when a drainage system for land from Punchbowl to Makiki diverted surface water to Waikīkī.

Nearly 85% of present Waikīkī (most of the land west of the present Lewers Street or mauka of Kalākaua) were in wetland agriculture or aquaculture.

During the first decade of the 20th century, the US War Department acquired more than 70-acres in the Kālia portion of Waikīkī for the establishment of a military reservation called Fort DeRussy.

The Army started filling in the fishponds which covered most of the Fort – pumping fill from the ocean continuously for nearly a year in order to build up an area on which permanent structures could be built. Thus the Army began the transformation of Waikīkī from wetlands to solid ground.

In accordance with the law, a reclamation project was proposed and conducted under the pretext of doing sanitation. This project aimed to dig a canal (Ala Wai Canal of today) in the center of Waikiki and reclaim all these swamps by earth and sand dug out from the construction of the canal.

During the 1920s, the Waikīkī landscape would be transformed when the construction of the Ala Wai Drainage Canal, begun in 1921 and completed in 1928, resulted in the draining and filling in of the remaining ponds and irrigated fields of Waikīkī.

Soon after, in 1928, the construction of the Royal Hawaiian Hotel was completed (joining the Moana Hotel (1901,) marking the beginning of Waikīkī as a world-class tourist attraction.

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1893_over_GoogelEarth-Streams_Ponds_Taro-Waikiki-broader
1893_over_GoogelEarth-Streams_Ponds_Taro-Waikiki-broader
'Diamond_Head_from_Waikiki',_oil_on_canvas_painting_by_Enoch_Wood_Perry,_Jr.,_c._1865
Waikiki_and_Helumoa_Coconut-(from_Ewa_end_of_Helumoa)-1870
Waikiki-1868
Waikiki-1868
Helumoa_with_the_Apuakehau_stream_in_the_foreground
Helumoa_with_the_Apuakehau_stream_in_the_foreground
Helen_Whitney_Kelley_-_'Rice_Paddies',_watercolor,_1890
ʻApuakehau_Stream,(WC)_ca._1890
ʻApuakehau_Stream,(WC)_ca._1890
Manoa_Valley_from_Waikiki,_oil_on_canvas_by_Enoch_Wood_Perry_Jr.-1860s
Manoa_Valley_from_Waikiki,_oil_on_canvas_by_Enoch_Wood_Perry_Jr.-1860s
Waikiki-Kalia_to_Moana-1920
Waikiki-Kalia_to_Moana-1920
Waikiki-Moana_Hotel-1920
Waikiki-Moana_Hotel-1920
Honolulu_Harbor_to_Diamond_Head-Wall-Reg1690-1893-Waikiki_portion-note_fish_ponds-rice_fields_-formerly_used_as_taro_loi-
Ala Wai Dredging-HSA
Ala Wai Dredging-HSA
Ala_Wai_Dredging-(hdcc-com)
Ala_Wai_Dredging-(hdcc-com)
Ala_Wai_Dredging-(hdcc-com)
Ala_Wai_Dredging-(hdcc-com)
Ala_Wai-Channel_being_dredged-UH_Manoa-(2411)-1952
Ala_Wai-Channel_being_dredged-UH_Manoa-(2411)-1952

Filed Under: Place Names Tagged With: Makiki, Ala Wai Canal, Piinaio, Hawaii, Apuakehau, Waikiki, Kamehameha, Oahu, Mailikukahi, Kuekaunahi, Palolo, Manoa, Fort DeRussy

March 12, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Entering Honolulu Harbor

There are certain things you should not or cannot do into the wind.

Tradewinds blow from the Northeast, the channel into Honolulu Harbor has a northeasterly alignment. Early ships calling to Honolulu were powered only by sails.

The entrance to the harbor was narrow and lined on either side with reefs.

Ships don’t sail into the wind.

Given all of this, Honolulu Harbor was difficult to enter.

The first European entry of Honolulu Harbor is credited to Captain Brown of the British schooner Jackal, accompanied by Captain Gordon in the sloop tender Prince Lee Boo.

They called the harbor “Fair Haven” which may be a rough translation of the Hawaiian name Honolulu (it was also sometimes called Brown’s Harbor.)

Following this, boats either anchored off-shore, or they were pulled, warped or tracked into the harbor (this was done with canoes; or, it meant men and/or oxen pulled them in.)

This might take eight double canoes with 16-20 men each, working in the pre-dawn calm when winds and currents were slow. Otherwise you had to contend with tradewinds blowing out of the harbor.

It was a narrow with reefs, but it was the only deep water harbor in the central Pacific.

In 1816 (as stories suggest,) Richards Street alignment was the straight path used by groups of men, and later oxen, to pull ships through the narrow channel into the harbor.

(Later, downtown’s Richards Street was named for a man who had a store on the street selling luggage to tourists.)

A few years after, in 1825, the first pier in the harbor was improvised by sinking a ship’s hull near the present Pier 12 site.

In 1854 the first steam tug was used to pull sail-powered ships into dock against the prevailing tradewinds.

Between 1857 and 1870, about 22-acres of reef and tideland was filled through a combination of fill and dredging, forming the “Esplanade” between Fort and Merchant Streets.

This created the area where Aloha Tower and Aloha Tower Marketplace are now located (prior to this, the waterfront was near Queen Street.)

In 1889, the Honolulu Harbor was described as “nothing but a channel kept open by the flow of the Nuʻuanu River.” In 1890-92 the channel was widened and deepened by dredging.

A channel 200 feet wide by 30 feet deep was dredged for about 1,000-feet through the sand bar which had limited depth to as shallow as 18 feet, restricting entry of the largest ocean vessels.

A series of new piers were constructed at the base of Richards Street in 1896, at the site of Piers 17 and 18 in 1901 (to accommodate sugar loading) and then at Piers 7 and 12 in 1907.

Today, Honolulu Harbor continues to serve as Hawai‘i’s commercial lifeline to the rest of the world.

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Honolulu Harbor-Ships pulled by canoes-Henry Walker-1843
Honolulu Harbor-Ships pulled by canoes-Henry Walker-1843
Honolulu_Harbor-Choris-1822
Honolulu_Harbor-Choris-1822
View_of_Honolulu_Harbor_and_Punchbowl_Crater._(c._1854)
View_of_Honolulu_Harbor_and_Punchbowl_Crater._(c._1854)
Honolulu_Harbor-USS_Dolphin-(Massey)-1826
Honolulu_Harbor-USS_Dolphin-(Massey)-1826
Honolulu_Harbor_Kotzebue-Map-1816
Honolulu_Harbor_Kotzebue-Map-1816
Honolulu-South_Shore-Pearl_Harbor-to-Diamond_Head-Kotzebue-1817-portion-400
Honolulu-South_Shore-Pearl_Harbor-to-Diamond_Head-Kotzebue-1817-portion-400
Honolulu_Harbor_to_Diamond_Head-Wall-Reg1690-1893
Honolulu_Harbor_to_Diamond_Head-Wall-Reg1690-1893
Honolulu Harbor Light - Harbor Wink -DAGS Honolulu (1887) GoogleEarth-1869
Honolulu Harbor Light – Harbor Wink -DAGS Honolulu (1887) GoogleEarth-1869

Filed Under: Economy, Place Names, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks Tagged With: Hawaii, Esplanade, Honolulu Harbor, Historic Maps

March 1, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Hawai‘i’s 5th County

Kalawao, encompassing the Kalaupapa Peninsula (also known as the Makanalua Peninsula,) is midway along the North Shore of Molokai.

Archaeological evidence suggests the earliest settlers in the peninsula probably lived in the Waikolu Valley in the A.D. 1100-1550 timeframe. At that time, people had been living in the windward Hālawa Valley for hundreds of years.

The Kalaupapa Peninsula, however, was probably not occupied until slightly later, perhaps around 1300-1400 A.D.

On the peninsula where it is dry and there are no permanent streams, people built field walls to protect crops like sweet potato (‘uala) from the northeast tradewinds. The remnant field walls can be seen from the air as one arrives at Kalaupapa Airport.

In wetter areas near the base of the cliffs, people built garden terraces. True pond field agriculture may have only been practiced in the Waikolu Valley or at the mouth of the Waihanau Valley.

The first peoples of Kalaupapa also collected marine resources along the shore, the reef, and offshore except when strong winter storms prevented it. People visited other parts of the island both by canoe and by trail over the cliffs.

In 1905, the Territorial Legislature passed a law that formed the basis of modern government in Hawaii, the County Act, forming local County governance.

While we easily recognize the four main Counties in Hawai‘i: Kauai, O‘ahu, Maui and Hawai‘i; we often overlook the County of Kalawao, Hawai‘i’s 5th County (encompassing the Kalaupapa Peninsula and surrounding land.)

The four main Counties are governed by elected County Councils. Kalawao is under the jurisdiction of the state’s Health Department; the director of Health serves as the Kalawao County ‘Mayor.’

State law, (HRS §326-34) states that the county of Kalawao consists of that portion of the island of Molokai known as Kalaupapa, Kalawao and Waikolu, and commonly known or designated as the Kalaupapa Settlement, and is not a portion of the County of Maui, but is constituted a county by itself.

This area was set aside very early on as a colony for sufferers of Hansen’s disease (leprosy.) The isolation law was enacted by King Kamehameha V; at its peak, about 1,200 men, women and children were in exile at Kalaupapa.

The first group of Hansen’s disease patients was sent to Kalawao on the eastern, or windward, side of the Kalaupapa peninsula on January 6, 1866.

The forced isolation of people from Hawaiʻi afflicted with Hansen’s disease to the remote Kalaupapa peninsula lasted from 1866 until 1969. This is where Saint Damien and Saint Marianne spent many years caring for the lepers.

On January 7, 1976, the “Kalaupapa Leprosy Settlement” was designated a National Historic Landmark to include 15,645 acres of land and waters.

On April 1, 2004, the NPS renewed its cooperative agreement with the State of Hawai‘i, Department of Health for an additional twenty years, entitled “Preservation of Historic Structures, Kalaupapa.” The NPS is maintaining utilities, roads and non-medical patient functions and maintenance of historic structures within the park.

Access to Kalaupapa is severely limited. There are no roads to the peninsula from “topside” Molokaʻi. Land access is via a steep trail on the pali (sea cliff) that is approximately three miles long with 26 switchbacks.

Air taxi service by commuter class aircraft provides the main access to Kalaupapa, arriving and departing two to four times a day, weather permitting.

Mail, freight, and perishable food, arrive by cargo plane on a daily basis. The barge brings cargo from Honolulu to Kalaupapa once a year, during the summer months when the sea is relatively calm.

While at DLNR, I had the opportunity to visit Kalaupapa on two occasions: once on a visit to the peninsula to review some of its historic buildings, the other as part of a planning retreat/discussion with the National Park Service.

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Kalawao,_Molokai,_(WC-Starr)
Kalawao,_Molokai,_(WC-Starr)
Beginnings of the Kalaupapa Leprosy Colony
Beginnings of the Kalaupapa Leprosy Colony
Kalaupapa peninsula on the island of Molokai
Kalaupapa peninsula on the island of Molokai
Kalaupapa, Molokai-Bertram
Kalaupapa, Molokai-Bertram
Kalaupapa Molokai-Bertram
Kalaupapa Molokai-Bertram
Siloama Protestant Church-general view, Moloka'i Island, Kalaupapa, Kalawao County, HI-LOC
Siloama Protestant Church-general view, Moloka’i Island, Kalaupapa, Kalawao County, HI-LOC
Kalawao-Kalaupapa
Kalawao-Kalaupapa
Edward_Clifford-E2-80-93View_of_the_Kalaupapa_Settlement-1880s
Edward_Clifford-E2-80-93View_of_the_Kalaupapa_Settlement-1880s
Charles R Bishop Home for Unprotected Girls and Women-Kalaupapa, Molokai-1900
Charles R Bishop Home for Unprotected Girls and Women-Kalaupapa, Molokai-1900
Sisters (Mother Marianne center) and patients at the Bishop Home in Kalaupapa
Sisters (Mother Marianne center) and patients at the Bishop Home in Kalaupapa
Kalaupapa home for unprotected girls
Kalaupapa home for unprotected girls
Father_Damien_the year he went to Kalaupapa-in_1873
Father_Damien_the year he went to Kalaupapa-in_1873
Mother_Marianne_Cope,_Kalaupapa,_1899
Mother_Marianne_Cope,_Kalaupapa,_1899

Filed Under: Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance, Place Names Tagged With: Hawaii, Molokai, DLNR, Kalaupapa, Kalawao, North Shore Molokai

February 26, 2019 by Peter T Young 2 Comments

The Queen’s Retreat

It’s in Maunawili and is referred to as the Boyd/Irwin/Hedemann house, due to the subsequent list of owners of the property.

Major Edward Boyd and his wife bought the land in 1869, it served as their estate.

Sugar baron William G. Irwin next purchased the estate in 1893, starting up a coffee mill, there.

C. Brewer owned the estate in the 1920s and 1930s, using it as a retreat. Kāne‘ohe Ranch bought it in 1941, when the military used it as a headquarters and rest area.

Even the Girl Scouts used it as a camp in the late-1940s.

The Hedemann family was the last to live there, until 1985, when the estate was purchased by a Japanese investor, who developed much of the surrounding area as the Luana Hills Country Club.

Since 2000, the property has been owned by HRT Ltd., the for-profit arm of the Jeanette and Harry Weinberg Foundation.

Why is it important?

The property is also referred to as the Queen’s Retreat.

King David Kalākaua and his sister, Lili‘uokalani, attended parties or simply came here to rest.

Guests would walk between two parallel rows of royal palms, farewells would be exchanged, then they would ride away on horseback or in their carriages.

Lili‘uokalani wrote “Aloha ‘Oe” after an 1878 visit to the estate.

When leaving, she witnessed a particularly affectionate farewell between a gentleman in her party and a lovely young girl from Maunawili.

As they rode up the Pali and into the swirling winds, she started to hum this melody weaving words into a romantic song. The Queen continued to hum and completed her song as they rode the winding trail down the valley back to Honolulu.

Uninhabited since about 1985, the structures and grounds of the estate are rapidly being destroyed and absorbed by the rain forest of Maunawili.

In 2005, Historic Hawai‘i Foundation put it on its Most Endangered list – the property may be lost due to lack of maintenance.

I had a chance to visit the site a few years ago. It brought back old memories. I had visited it many times before.

As a kid, I used to go to school with the Hedemanns and visited their home several times, decades ago. Back then, I never knew what the place was all about; it was merely the Hedemann’s house.

When I saw the property, again, a few years ago, I learned the stories of the place. I had a chance to see the palm-lined walkway leading to the house.

This is a very special place.

I am hopeful that the property can be maintained and access made public, so people can see and feel what inspired the Queen to write Aloha ‘Oe.

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Aloha_Oe-Hawaiian-English
Aloha_Oe-Hawaiian-English
Crown Princess Liliuokalani of Hawaii photographed in London during Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee-(WC)-c._1887
Crown Princess Liliuokalani of Hawaii photographed in London during Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee-(WC)-c._1887
Aloha_Oe-Sheet_Music-Cover
Aloha_Oe-Sheet_Music-Cover
Palm lined path
Palm lined path
Palm lined path
Palm lined path
Queen's-Retreat-(historichawaii)
Queen’s-Retreat-(historichawaii)
Queen's_Retreat-(historichawaii)
Queen’s_Retreat-(historichawaii)
Trail up the windward side of the Pali, Honolulu Hawaii-(BishopMuseum) ca. 1890
Trail up the windward side of the Pali, Honolulu Hawaii-(BishopMuseum) ca. 1890
Driving Cattle up Pali Trail to Market - 1887
Driving Cattle up Pali Trail to Market – 1887
Old_Pali_Road._Building_of_the_New_pali_Road_1900._Wilson_&_Whitehouse_contract
Old_Pali_Road._Building_of_the_New_pali_Road_1900._Wilson_&_Whitehouse_contract
Nuuanu_Pali-Koolau_Range-1889
Nuuanu_Pali-Koolau_Range-1889

Filed Under: General, Buildings, Place Names Tagged With: Maunawili, Hawaii, Oahu, Queen Liliuokalani

February 24, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Humu‘ula Sheep Station

Historically, sheep-raising was one of the oldest introduced agricultural pursuits in Hawai‘i. Sheep were originally introduced to the Big Island by Capt. George Vancouver in 1793, when he left two ewes and a ram at Kealakekua.

Sheep were being raised for export by 1809 and flourished through the early part of the 20th century. Most meat was consumed locally and wool was supplied to mainland US buyers. Wool production reached its peak in 1875 when 565,000-pounds were sent overseas.

A visible remnant of the sheep industry is the Humu‘ula Sheep Station, situated at the junction of Saddle Road and Mauna Kea Access Road on the lower slopes of Mauna Kea.

The Sheep Station has historical and architectural interest because sheep raising, although never a major industry, was carried on until the last large flock in the Islands, located at Humu’ula, was phased-out in the early 1960s.

The Humu‘uIa Sheep Station Company chartered by the Hawaiian Government in 1883, was an operation of H. Hackfeld and Company.

By 1894, the company had erected large and extensive paddocks at Kalai‘eha (named for the pu‘u (cinder cone) near the site) and also had a station at Keanakolu (near where DLNR has some cabins and other facilities on the Mana-Keanakolu Road that skirts the east and north side of Mauna Kea.)

Ownership of the station then came under Parker Ranch and operations continued for years, often little known by Hawai’i residents due to its comparatively isolated location.

Sheep raising at Humu‘uIa was given‐up in 1963 and although abandoned as a sheep station, cattle ranch support activities continued until 2002, when the Parker lease expired.

The Sheep Station site contains a mix of structures and artifacts with varying degrees of historic, architectural and aesthetic significance.

Existing structures include offices, living facilities, outbuildings, work sheds, shearing sheds, holding pens and catchment facilities.

Buildings and artifacts tell an interesting architectural story and provide a historic backdrop for a contemporary rustic experience.

The site was assessed by the State Historic Preservation Division for placement on the Hawai’i Register of Historic Places.

The historian determined that the site’s architectural interest and merit lie in “structures (c. 1900) [that] are typical ranch house style but are particularly interesting for their ‘homemade’ contrived plans and arrangements, both functional and picturesque.”

The main historic building on site consists of an office and dwelling which was part of a cluster that represents the property’s rustic character. It was originally built as a men’s living cottage and, over time, converted to office and residential use.

The structure was built in stages and consists of two distinct wings, both with gable roofs. The 1973 SHPD assessment refers to the elaborate decoration of the living room with skylight, wainscoting and carved scrollwork.

Unfortunately, the building has deteriorated from neglect and lack of maintenance. A preliminary architectural inspection indicates that the building will require extensive structural rehabilitation to meet current health and safety standards for occupancy.

The good news is DHHL, owner of the site, adopted the ‘Āina Mauna Legacy Program. One of the actions called for in that Plan and its accompanying Environmental Assessment is the restoration and adaptive reuse of the Humu‘ula Sheep Station.

We are honored and proud to have prepared the ʻĀina Mauna Legacy Program planning document, Implementation Strategy and Work Plan, Cultural Impact Assessment and Environmental Assessment for DHHL.

We are equally proud the ʻĀina Mauna Legacy Program was unanimously approved by the Hawaiian Homes Commission and was given the “Environment/Preservation Award” from the American Planning Association‐Hawaiʻi Chapter and the “Koa: Standing the Test of Time Award” by the Hawaiʻi Department of Agriculture and the Hawaiʻi Forest Industry Association.

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Humuula Sheep Station-1892
Humuula Sheep Station-1892
Humuula Sheep Station
Humuula Sheep Station
Humuula Sheep Station
Humuula Sheep Station
Humuula Sheep Station
Humuula Sheep Station
Humuula Sheep Station
Humuula Sheep Station
Humuula Sheep Station
Humuula Sheep Station
Humuula Sheep Station
Humuula Sheep Station
Humuula Sheep Station
Humuula Sheep Station
Humuula Sheep Station
Humuula Sheep Station
Humuula Sheep Station
Humuula Sheep Station
Humuula-Register_Map-668-SC_Wiltse-1862
Humuula-Register_Map-668-SC_Wiltse-1862
Aina_Mauna_Legacy_Program-Map
Aina_Mauna_Legacy_Program-Map

Filed Under: Economy, General, Place Names Tagged With: Department of Hawaiian Home Lands, Mauna Kea, Humuula Sheep Station, Hawaii, DHHL, Aina Mauna Legacy Program

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Images of Old Hawaiʻi

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