Images of Old Hawaiʻi

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Christian Jacob Hedemann

Christian Jacob Hedemann was born at Flensborg in the Dukedom of Slesvig, Denmark on May 25, 1852; he was the son of a military surgeon Christian August Ferdinand Hedemann, 1810-1879, and his wife Caroline Amalie Cloos, 1824-1867.

Christian Jacob Hedemann married Meta Marie Magdalene Nissen in Denmark October 27, 1877; she was born at Copenhagen June 23, 1850.

Christian Jacob Hedemann was educated at the famous boarding School Herlufsholm (founded 1565), and at the Danish Technical University from which he graduated. In 1870-1878 he served as a draughtsman and constructor of machinery at Burmeister & Wain at Copenhagen. (Wangel)

“A friend of his father, August Unna, a Danish sugar plantation owner on Hana, Maui an isolated part of the islands, offered Christian Hedemann a position as chief engineer.” (Davis)

In 1878 he came to Hawaii and became factory manager and engineer on the Hana plantation. (Nellist) Hedemann was responsible for the construction of sugar mill machinery to be delivered to Hana.

This appointment turned out to become a 6-years employment, and a life-long friendship. In 1884 he came to Honolulu Iron Works in order to construct machinery for sugar cane industry. (Wangel)

When Mr. Hedemann joined the Honolulu Iron Works in 1884, it was little more than a repair shop. With the development of the sugar industry on a large scale in Hawaii, the plant began the manufacture of sugar mill machinery and the furnishing of complete sugar factories. It has constructed most of the modern sugar mills in the Territory. (Nellist)

As a manufacturer of sugar cane factory equipment he got Honolulu Iron Works to become leading in the world. 1904 he was appointed general manager of Honolulu Iron Works. (Wangel)

In 1905, Mr. Hedemann realized the need for a New York branch and, against the advice of many leading business men of Honolulu, an office was opened in small quarters at No. 11 Broadway, New York City.

All purchasing for the iron works was then done directly through this office, thus dispensing with Eastern agents, and contracts for the furnishing of sugar factories and equipment in Puerto Rico, Cuba, Mexico and Louisiana were obtained. One of these was for the largest sugar factory in the world, located in Cuba, having a daily grinding capacity of 9,000 tons of cane.

Hedemann also went to Japan and Formosa and secured contracts for the building of seven large sugar mills, all of the machinery being built at the Honolulu works, and later fifteen sugar factories were constructed in the Philippines.

The Honolulu Iron Works had a plant in Manila where the requirements of the Philippines are met and two dry docks for the repairing of local ships. The New York office of the Honolulu Iron Works Co. became a large division and occupied a large portion of two floors in the famous Woolworth Building, besides operating a branch engineering office in Havana, Cuba. (Nellist)

1917 he retired from Iron Works Management, retained as Advisory and Technical Director, 3rd Vice President of the firm. (Wangel)

Hedemann was also a noted, although amateur, photographer. “Hedemann carried a camera with him, having taken up photography as a natural extension of his fascination with mechanical developments.”

“He made a visual record of his experience in the islands, photographing the family’s exotic surroundings and providing evidence of its well being, that could be kept for posterity and shared with his relatives in Denmark.”

“He created a virtually unrivalled view of 19th century Hawaii, highlighting change and industrial development in the islands. … Hedemann’s first dated photograph, a view of his house with a Danish flag flying gaily overhead was taken February 1, 1880.” (Davis)

“Early in 1883 Hedemann went to considerable trouble to convert his carriage shed into a small studio where he could take portraits. To illuminate the room, he made sections of the roof removable, creating a makeshift skylight.”

“Using plans from early photo journals, he had a portable reflector and head rests made in the blacksmith and carpenter shops at the mill.”

“In this ‘Big Photo Studio in Hana, Sandwich Islands’, as he jokingly called it, Hedemann executed a body of work of lasting importance.”

“Opening the studio not only enhanced his ability to control the photographic environment but also created a neutral location where the haole (Caucasian) photographer could establish a formal relationship with unfamiliar sitters.”

“Before starting the studio, Hedemann’s portraits were limited to family members and fellow Danes; now he proceeded to produce a remarkable visual inventory of the growing ethnic diversity in Hana.”

“Photographs he took there, as Meta noted later, depict ‘the many different people who came around to work in the fields from time to time … Southern Islanders, Chinese, Portuguese, and even a small colony of Scandinavians.’” (Davis)

“Hedemann took his camera inside sugar mills, and the Honolulu Iron Works. His photographs of the mills reflect personal pride in his accomplishments as well as the prevailing fervor of the steam age and Hedemann’s love of ‘beautiful things for the sake of their perfection of design and intricate workmanship.’”

“The gleaming sugar mill machinery of Hana Plantation provided forms pleasing to the photographer’s eye but also emblems of the industrial era.”

“Hedemann helped organize the Hawaiian Camera Club, drawing amateur photographers he knew in Honolulu together with others he had met during his travels around the islands on Iron Works business.”  (Davis)

In March, 1917, he was decorated by the King of Denmark as a “Knight of Dannebrog.” He became an American citizen in 1903. (Nellist)

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Hilo Country Club

“For years Hilo has had no golf course.  A links  at the Volcano and the residents of Hamakua coast and of the Kohala region can get a round or two whenever they desire.” (HTH, Sep 23, 1925)

“The Hilo Country Club was the name chosen for Hilo’s new golf club which has purchased 123 acres of excellent golf land in Kaumana, … at a meeting of the members of the organization held Monday evening in the Chamber of Commerce rooms.”

“The course will be a regulation nine hole course, capable of accommodating-more than 150 golfers at one time. …  The club has more than enough land so that when Hilo needs an 18-[hole] course it will be an easy matter to enlarge the nine-hole course.” (HTH, Sep 2, 1925)

“The Hilo Country Club golf course in Kaumana is now complete and will be ready for play in July or August … The course in the estimation of many prominent golfers is the best in the Territory.” (HTH, Apr 16, 1926)

“The Hilo Country Club’s new golf course will be informally opened on August 22, when members of the club are allowed to use the links”. (HTH, Aug 10, 1926)

“[T]hat golf course was put up by the plantations, all the C. Brewer and all the big fives. All the plantation managers were the members and directors so whenever we want something like fertilizer, we got it from the plantations.”

“That’s the only way we could have survived then. Mostly it was managers and the bank, the judges, the police chief and all those. … “ (Susumu Tanimoto, oral history Pili Productions)

“[A]ll the functions like socializing was done at the Yacht Club, the same members. That Country Club was mostly for golf. And all the social gatherings, the same group, they all belonged to the Yacht Club.”

“It was quite a big club house though. We could seat 250 for dinner, upstairs and one open floor you know. We could seat 250. … We had catered to some you know class reunions and some weddings and things like that.” (Susumu Tanimoto, oral history Pili Productions)

“[W]hen I first there they won’t take any Orientals or any other nationality.”  (Susumu Tanimoto, oral history Pili Productions)  Susumu Tanimoto joined the Hilo Country Club in 1945.

“Well I first went to the Country Club as a custodian and during that time there were nobody around. Everybody was drafted or either volunteered.”

“So they didn’t have any guy, any custodian. And for me it was lucky because my wife could be in the kitchen and I could take over the rest of the janitorial job and everything. That’s how we started.”

“[T]hat was one of the nicest club house. Too bad though. And we had a bar. … All with hard wood, koa. Oh one of the best. Real, real old timer. … [the clubhouse as] Two story, like this basement. That’s where we had all our everyday doing. You know golf, golf shop, lunch. We serve lunch on the, upstairs was purely for big gatherings, dance.”

“But working there for couple of years then I took up golf cause I was on the golf course. … after I became pro. That’s why they made me the pro, to get all Orientals, all the doctors and lawyers and all the Oriental businessmen.”

“So I did went out and I got a lot of the businessmen and professional men to join the club. And we were doing fine.”  (Susumu Tanimoto, oral history Pili Productions)

“[W]e had the Hilo Open, we had the Island Champion, four or five big ones through the year. Cause we were the only golf club then, before the Muni came.”

Then, the “Hilo Municipal [Golf Course] opened up 1958 or ’59. And from there on the membership became low because they could play golf cheaper. So then we start struggling.” (Susumu Tanimoto, oral history Pili Productions)

Tanimoto “wasn’t happy with the club so I just resigned and… They hired another pro while I was still working there. That got me mad you know so I quit. And after I quit all the boys that I have brought them to the club, to let them join, they all resign too.”

“So right off the bat gone. They had no income then. All the guys that I had recruited, they all resign when I resign and left the club. I think they operate about six months after I left.”  Tanimoto opened a pro shop in Hilo.  (Susumu Tanimoto, oral history Pili Productions)

“[S]ale of the {Hilo Country] club had been considered for several months. The club has bank debts, and other outstanding bills totalling approximately $150,000.” (HTH, Nov 4, 1973)

“[T]he vote for approval of the sale was 266 to 2. A vote of 224, or 75 per cent of the 297 club stockholders, was needed for approval of the sale.”

“Originally, three offers were received, one for $800,000 and two for $850,000. All three were rejected by the Country Club board of directors because of the wide variation of sale conditions.”

“Uniform sale conditions were then laid down by the directors and the firms were invited to submit offers. The firm with the $800,000 offer upped it to $850,000. One of the firms offering $850,000 re-submitted the offer and the other withdrew.” (HTH, Jan 1, 1974)

The property was deeded to Obata Pacific Inc on March 7, 1974. (HTH, Sep 16, 1974)  Obata Pacific intended to expand the nine hole course to 18 holes and develop other recreational facilities.  (HTH, Jan 1, 1974)

Things got worse … “Obata Pacific, a Hawaii corporation owned by Mr. and Mrs. Minoru Obata of Tokyo, took title to the 63-acre, nine-hole Kaumana course and clubhouse last March, putting down 10 per cent of the $855,000 sale price.”

“A spokesman for Obata in Hilo confirmed to the Tribune-Herald this week that the firm is nearly two months late in making a final balloon payment. … planning work on renovation of the facility has been suspended. A December reopening date for the club has been postponed by Obata indefinitely”. (HTH, Sep 1, 1974)

The property went into foreclosure and the golf course never reopened.

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Captain George Gilley

“Word of the Bonin Islands had reached Hawaii, and there were already one or two of the chance residents in Oahu who were entertaining the idea of going to these newly-discovered islands and trying their fortune there as colonists.”

“In [1830] Captain Samuel H Dowsett, father of Mr JI Dowsett of this city, look in the schooner Unity the first inhabitants and colonists to the Bonin Islands.”

“The members of the expedition were almost all foreigners married to Hawaiian women, under the leadership of one Mazarro, an Italian. Others were Millinchamp … Savory and Gilley …” (Daily Bulletin, Aug 23, 1883)

“By 1835, their grass-hut settlement attracted at least six more enterprising wāhine and several other disaffected Westerners, including Englishman William Gilley. One of the colony’s 16 wāhine bore children who took his name – among them William Jr., Michael, Lizzie, and around 1840, George.” (Hancock)

“[S]upplies came by way of roving whalers that occasionally appeared on the eastern horizon. As a teenager, George Gilley jumped at the first opportunity to leave on one, arriving in Hawai‘i via a whaling ship and sticking around.”

“An 1855 letter, sent to the Bonin Islands from a family friend in Honolulu, mentioned that ‘George has been here 2 or 3 times but I could not persuade him to go home and see his mother. He seems to like this place so much.’” (Hancock)

Historians suggest “that young Hawaiian males left Hawai’i as workers on whaling ships and traveled to China, Europe, Mexico, and the U.S. mainland. In addition, many ventured into the Pacific Northwest territory, worked in the fur trade, and ended up settling in those areas.” (pbs-org)

“Hawaiian sailors were known for their seamanship and swimming abilities and made desirable recruits for the whaling captains, so much so that the Hawaiian government began to regulate this recruitment and passed laws requiring bonds to ensure the sailors’ return to the islands as early as the 1830s.”

“The demographic decline due to foreign diseases (an additional import of the early western whalers) made it all the more important to ensure the return of local sailors to Hawai‘i. Nonetheless, the role of Kānaka maoli in the American whaling fleet continued to increase.”  (NOAA)

“Sandwich Island crew … are complete water-dogs, therefore very good in boating. It is for this reason that there are so many of them on the coast of California; they being very good hands in the surf.”

“They are also quick and active in the rigging, and good hands in warm weather; but those who have been with them round Cape Horn, and in high latitudes, say that they are useless in cold weather. In their dress they are precisely like our sailors.”  (Dana, 1840)

“Gilley is described as ‘one of Hawaii’s own children’ and many of the crew also are reported to be from Hawai’i. This portrayal dovetails with other narratives about Captain Gilley’s Kanaka heritage and the vessel’s primarily Native Hawaiian crew.” (Lebo)

“Many thousands of Native Hawaiian seamen took whaling cruises beginning with four young men who left in 1819 aboard the American whaleship Balaena. … over 7,000 native seamen … shipped aboard foreign whaling vessels between 1859 and 1867.” (Lebo)

Of all of those Hawaiians that set sail, George Gilley is “the only known Native Hawaiian whaling captain in history”. (Hancock) (Lebo)

“Gilley navigated Arctic storms and treacherous fields of coral, ice, and thrashing leviathans that shivered the timbers of all who braved the North Pacific in the great blubber rush of the 19th century.”

“Propelled by a jetstream of sheer talent, Gilley was an exemplar of the Native Hawaiian initiative, skill, and fearlessness that rendered a small island kingdom a player in the global economy.” (Hancock)

Gilley, as Captain of the William H Allen, was involved in a couple notable, fateful voyages in the north Pacific … there was an Arctic whaling disaster that included “the loss of 11 whaling vessels, including the Desmond, all of which were abandoned in the ice near Point Tangent, Alaska, on September 5, 1876.” (Lebo)

“The [William] H Allen. This Honolulu whaler and trader returned from the Arctic on Thursday last, have done very fairly. She brings two survivors of the wrecked crews of last season, the only ones, so far as at present known, remaining out of the sixty men who elected to stay by the ships.”

One of these is a Hawaiian and the other a Tahitian. They report that one of the ships – the Acors Barnes – could have been got out last fall, but that the Tahitians on board found some rum, got drunk, and run her ashore. The two [survivors] lived among the Indians during the winter.” (PCA, Oct 27, 1877)

Then, “At East Cape, the crew of the [William] H Allen had a fight [some called it a massacre] with the Indians, who boarded her and demanded rum. This being refused the Indians began an [assault] upon the crew, which ended in the killing of some fifteen of the former.”

“The Indians of that locality have long been reputed to be a bad lot. In the attack, one Hawaiian seaman lost his life [Honuailealea (Lebo)], and two were wounded.” (PCA, Oct 27, 1877)

“[T]he trading conflict revolved around liquor, a commodity the whalers often traded to Siberian and Alaskan natives for ivory, furs, and other local articles. … The traders included several chiefs, numerous young men, a few women, and several elderly men.”

“They came from one of several villages at Cape Prince of Wales, Alaska. They frequently traded with whalers and with native communities on both sides of the Bering Strait as well as those who lived on the intervening islands.” (Lebo)

“[A]t 4 o’clock in the afternoon on the 4th of July, 1877, a canoe drew abreast of us, and then left; after that, another canoe pulled up, with thirty or more men aboard, along with two women. When they approached the ship, two chiefs boarded, along with the men, while the women remained on the canoe.” (Polapola; Lebo)

“[O]ne of the chiefs was caught stealing liquor and that the skirmish erupted when that chief and another native assaulted the captain and first mate.” (Lebo)  “After our battle, the Hawaiians were victorious”. (Polapola; Lebo)

“Gilley and his crew of Hawaiians, African Americans, and Cape Verdeans killed thirteen Alaska Natives … The episode reverberated for years, and trust between the whalers and the Native population around Cape Prince of Wales never recovered.”  (NPS)

“Sometime around Kalākaua’s birthday race in 1880, Gilley registered a home address in Pauoa, O‘ahu, but he did not stay there long. He followed the whaling industry to San Francisco, where he became captain of the bark Eliza until at least 1884, touching at Honolulu occasionally.”

“By 1886, the middle-aged whaler downgraded station but upgraded technology, becoming first mate on the steam-powered Grampus. No longer captain, Gilley lost regular listing in whaleship reports.” (Hancock)

“In 1899, gold was discovered at the coastal settlement of Nome, Alaska, drawing thousands of prospectors and, apparently, George Gilley, who arrived via the bark Alaska in the spring of 1900.”

“In August, he sailed over to the Siberian coast, and anchored near the shore. … As the ship approached Sledge Island, about 20 miles offshore, Gilley took a seat on the ship’s rail and looked across the blue at the coast of stone gray and green.”

“Then the wind shifted, and for once in his life, he did not rise to meet its force. The boom swung around and knocked George Gilley into the frigid sea. His men raced astern as the ship grazed onward, only to watch him drown.”

“The crew worked like whalers, and not without difficulty, to hoist Gilley’s lifeless body out of the water, back into the crisp morning air. They took him on to Nome. … His death was not evidently reported in Hawai‘i.” (Hancock)

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Rodney James Tadashi Yano

Born December 13, 1943 on Hawaii’s Kona coast, Rodney James Tadashi Yano’s ancestry included Japanese, Hawaiian and Portuguese. He attended Konawaena High in his hometown of Kealakekua. (Vachon)

“His father, a commercial fisherman for more than 20 years, [grew] coffee on acreage near Kealakekua Bay. Rodney graduated from Konawaena High School in 1961, and while in school served as president of the Konawaena chapter of the Future Farmers of America.”

“Rodney’s school records show that his longtime ambition was to be a soldier, and he volunteered in the Regular Army following his graduation from high school in 1961.”

Mr. Ichiro Shikada, one of his former teachers at Konawaena High School, described young Yano as a student who showed signs of both leadership and courage when he was in school. He recalled that even then Rodney “had the habit of coming through when the chips were down.” (Tribute by Spark Matsunaga)

In 1961 Rodney joined the Army; he was affectionately called ‘Pineapple’ by his fellow soldiers. Known as a fun-loving guy with a serious side, Yano rose to the rank of Sergeant First Class.

Rodney’s younger brother Glenn had later enlisted with the Hawaii National Guard. They mobilized 4,000 men for Vietnam in early 1968, becoming one of the few National Guard units to participate in the war. Army policy at the time prohibited the involuntary simultaneous deployment of immediate family members to the war.

Rodney spent a year in Vietnam, but then volunteered to extend. Glenn said, “Rodney felt that since he had just completed a year in Vietnam he was more experienced than me. He said his chances were better than mine.”

“Sergeant Yano was only a few days away from completing his second voluntary year of combat in Vietnam [when tragic events occurred. Because of his heroism] Rodney [was] the second serviceman from Hawaii to receive the Medal of Honor in the Vietnam war”.   (Tribute by Spark Matsunaga)  (The Medal of Honor was presented posthumously to parents, Mr and Mrs Richard Yano, by President Nixon, April 7, 1970.)

On January 1, 1969, Yano was out on the flight line at Bien Hoa, Vietnam. One of the unit’s helicopters was supposed to make an easy run to pick up an officer in Saigon and return to base. It’s roughly a 70 km trip over the calmest part of South Vietnam.

SP4 Carmine Conti, a crewman on the Huey, said that Yano picked up that Conti’s door gunner was nowhere to be found. Yano immediately ran over and volunteered. Conti said, “Yano loved to fly but, as a technical inspector, wasn’t getting much time in the air. . . . like everyone else in the troop, I liked the guy…a lot. He didn’t have to ask twice.”

Yano performed his duties of crew chief aboard the command and control helicopter.  The aircraft commander was then-Major John “Doc” Bahnsen.  Bahnsen was alerted to a nearby friendly force that was attacking a well-entrenched enemy position.

Bahnsen was diverted to provide fire support, to mark the enemy positions for other close air support aircraft and artillery, and act as the airborne command and control element.

Arriving over the fighting on the ground, the crew went to work. Yano, from his position at the door gun on the side of the aircraft, fired the machine gun and was tossing smoke grenades out the door onto the enemy positions. Once marked, Major Bahnsen could then call-in supporting fire more accurately. (Valor Guardians)

“While marking enemy positions with smoke and white phosphorous grenades for field artillery units, a grenade went off prematurely inside of the helicopter, covering Yano with burning phosphorous and leaving him severely wounded. Ammunition and other supplies began to ignite, and white smoke began filling the helicopter.”

“Although partially blind and unable to use of one of his arms, Yano displayed extreme bravery by hurling blazing ammunition from the helicopter. In taking such action, Yano inflicted additional wounds upon himself to protect his crew from further injury and avert any deaths.” (Veterans Memorial Court Alliance)

Conti said immediately after the explosion, “I tumbled to the cabin floor, unable to hear or see anything but white smoke. I thought I was dead.” Yano was covered in burning White Phosphorus, his left hand nearly blown completely off.

Yano didn’t miss a beat though, he grabbed a first aid kit, pulled out a tourniquet and told Conti that he should tie his left arm off above the elbow.  “By all rights,” Conti recalled, “Yano should have sat down and remained still to avoid aggravating his ghastly wounds. He didn’t.”

Yano, partially blinded by the initial explosion, had his vision fully obscured by the resultant smoke, with the use of only one arm and despite unimaginable pain, started tossing and kicking out munitions that were still exploding unpredictably. (Valor Guardians)

“Fire was burning all around him and the cabin was still full of white smoke,” Conti described. “It was a surreal sight but the most selfless and courageous act of heroism that I saw during the war, and I saw a lot of heroic actions.”

The aircraft’s pilot recovered control and immediately flew Yano to a nearby medical evacuation hospital, where they landed safely. “Our survival that day,” Conti concludes, “was assured only by Yano’s extraordinary courage and calm amid crisis while he personally teetered on death’s door.” (Valor Guardians)

Yano’s colleagues were not surprised that he died putting others before himself. During his second tour in Vietnam, Yano was served as a crew chief in the Air Cavalry Troop, 11th Armored Cavalry, the famed Blackhorse Regiment. (Veterans Memorial Court Alliance)

“SFC Yano distinguished himself while serving with the Air Cavalry Troop. SFC Yano was performing the duties of crew chief aboard the troop’s command-and-control helicopter during action against enemy forces entrenched in dense jungle.”

“From an exposed position in the face of small-arms and antiaircraft fire he delivered suppressive fire upon the enemy forces and marked their positions with smoke and white phosphorous grenades, thus enabling his troop commander to direct accurate and effective artillery fire against the hostile emplacements.”

“By his conspicuous gallantry at the cost of his life, in the highest traditions of the military service, SFC Yano has reflected great credit on himself, his unit, and the US Army.” (Medal of Honor Citation)

Yano’s other awards include a Bronze Star Medal, Air Medal (11th award), Army commendation medal, Purple Heart, good conduct medal, Vietnam service medal and Vietnam campaign medal. (Pacific Citizen, JACL)

Rodney Yano is the namesake of the USNS Yano (T-AKR-297), a Shughart class cargo ship. She is a ‘roll-on roll-off’ non-combat United States Navy designated a “Large, Medium-speed, roll-on/roll-off” (LMSR) ship.

Yano Multipurpose Range at Fort Knox, Yano Fitness Center at Camp Zama, Japan, Sgt. Yano Library at Schofield Barracks, Hawaii and Yano Hall Helicopter Maintenance Facility at Fort Novosel, Alabama, Yano Street, Fort Carson, Colorado and Yano Hall Recreational Public Facility (that opened in December 1970), Captain Cook, Kona, Island of Hawaii are also named in his honor.

Sergeant First Class Rodney JT Yano is buried in the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific, Honolulu, Hawaii section W plot 614.

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Hualālai (as viewed by Isabella Bird)

“If all Hawaii, south of Waimea, were submerged to a depth of 8000 feet, three nearly equidistant, dome-shaped volcanic islands would remain, the highest of which would have an altitude of 6000 feet.”  (Isabella Bird)

Hualālai (“the offspring of the shining sun”) is the third youngest and third-most historically active volcano on the Island of Hawai‘i. (USGS)

It is considered to be in the post-shield stage of activity. Six different vents erupted lava between the late 1700s and 1801, two of which generated lava flows that poured into the sea on the west coast of the island.  (USGS)

The Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport at Keāhole, located only 7 miles north of Kailua-Kona, is built atop the larger flow. The oldest dated rocks are from about 128,000 years ago and it probably reached an elevation above sea level before 300,000 years ago. (USGS)

“I very soon left the languid life of Kona for this sheep station, 6000 feet high on the desolate slope of the dead volcano of Hualalai, (“offspring of the shining sun,”) on the invitation of its hospitable owner, who said if I ‘could eat his rough fare, and live his rough life, his house and horses were at my disposal.’”

“This house is in the great volcanic wilderness of which I wrote from Kalaieha, a desert of drouth and barrenness. There is no permanent track, and on the occasions when I have ridden up here alone, the directions given me have been to steer for an ox bone, and from that to a dwarf ohia.”

“There is no coming or going; it is seventeen miles from the nearest settlement, and looks across a desert valley to Mauna Loa. … A brisk cool wind blows all day; every afternoon a dense fog brings the horizon within 200 feet, but it clears off with frost at dark, and the flames of the volcano light the whole southern sky.”

“I came up to within eight miles of this house with a laughing, holiday-making rout of twelve natives, who rode madly along the narrow forest trail at full gallop, up and down the hills, through mire and over stones, leaping over the trunks of prostrate trees, and stooping under branches with loud laughter, challenging me to reckless races over difficult ground …”

“… and when they found that the wahine haole was not to be thrown from her horse they patted me approvingly, and crowned me with leis of maile. I became acquainted with some of these at Kilauea in the winter, and since I came to Kona they have been very kind to me.”

“I thoroughly like living among them, taking meals with them on their mats, and eating ‘two fingered’ poi as if I had been used to it all my life. Their mirthfulness and kindliness are most winning; their horses, food, clothes, and time are all bestowed on one so freely, and one lives amongst them with a most restful sense of absolute security.”

“They have many faults, but living alone among them in their houses as I have done so often on Hawaii, I have never seen or encountered a disagreeable thing.”

“But the more I see of them the more impressed I am with their carelessness and love of pleasure, their lack of ambition and a sense of responsibility, and the time which they spend in doing nothing but talking and singing as they bask in the sun, though spasmodically and under excitement they are capable of tremendous exertions in canoeing, surf-riding, and lassoing cattle.”

“I sat for an hour on horseback on a rocky hill while they hunted the woods; then I heard the deep voices of bulls, and a great burst of cattle appeared, with hunters in pursuit, but the herd vanished over a dip of the hill side, and the natives joined me. …”

“I have made the ascent of Hualalai twice from here, the first time guided by my host and hostess, and the second time rather adventurously alone.”

“Forests of koa, sandal-wood, and ohia, with an undergrowth of raspberries and ferns clothe its base, the fragrant maile, and the graceful sarsaparilla vine, with its clustered coral-coloured buds, nearly smother many of the trees, and in several places the heavy ie forms the semblance of triumphal arches over the track.”

“This forest terminates abruptly on the great volcanic wilderness, with its starved growth of unsightly scrub. But Hualalai, though 10,000 feet in height, is covered with Pteris aquilina, mamane, coarse bunch grass, and pukeave to its very summit, which is crowned by a small, solitary, blossoming ohia.”

“For two hours before reaching the top, the way lies over countless flows and beds of lava, much disintegrated, and almost entirely of the kind called pahoehoe.”

“Countless pit craters extend over the whole mountain, all of them covered outside, and a few inside, with scraggy vegetation. The edges are often very ragged and picturesque. The depth varies from 300 to 700 feet, and the diameter from 700 to 1,200.”

“The walls of some are of a smooth grey stone, the bottoms flat, and very deep in sand, but others resemble the tufa cones of Mauna Kea. They are so crowded together in some places as to be divided only by a ridge so narrow that two mules can scarcely walk abreast upon it.”

“The mountain was split by an earthquake in 1868, and a great fissure, with much treacherous ground about it, extends for some distance across it. It is very striking from every point of view on this side, being a complete wilderness of craters, and over 150 lateral cones have been counted.”

“The object of my second ascent was to visit one of the grandest of the summit craters, which we had not reached previously owing to fog.”

“This crater is bordered by a narrow and very fantastic ridge of rock, in or on which there is a mound about 60 feet high, formed of fragments of black, orange, blue, red, and golden lava, with a cavity or blow-hole in the centre, estimated by Brigham as having a diameter of 25 feet, and a depth of 1800.”

“The interior is dark brown, much grooved horizontally, and as smooth and regular as if turned. There are no steam cracks or signs of heat anywhere. Superb caves or lava-bubbles abound at a height of 6000 feet. These are moist with ferns, and the drip from their roofs is the water supply of this porous region.”

“Hualalai, owing to the vegetation sparsely sprinkled over it, looks as if it had been quiet for ages, but it has only slept since 1801, when there was a tremendous eruption from it, which flooded several villages, destroyed many plantations and fishponds, filled up a deep bay 20 miles in extent, and formed the present coast.”

“The terrified inhabitants threw living hogs into the stream, and tried to propitiate the anger of the gods by more costly offerings, but without effect …”

“… till King Kamehameha, attended by a large retinue of priests and chiefs, cut off some of his hair, which was considered sacred, and threw it into the torrent, which in two days ceased to run. This circumstance gave him a greatly increased ascendancy, from his supposed influence with the deities of the volcanoes.”

“I have explored the country pretty thoroughly for many miles round, but have not seen anything striking, except the remains of an immense heiau in the centre of the desert tableland, said to have been built in a day by the compulsory labour of 25,000 people …”.

“I left Hualalai yesterday morning, and dined with my kind host and hostess in the wigwam. It was the last taste of the wild Hawaiian life I have learned to love so well, the last meal on a mat, the last exercise of skill in eating ‘two-fingered’ poi.”

“I took leave gratefully of those who had been so truly kind to me, and with the friendly aloha from kindly lips in my ears, regretfully left the purple desert in which I have lived so serenely, and plunged into the forest gloom.”

“Half way down, I met a string of my native acquaintances, who, as the courteous custom is, threw over me leis of maile and roses, and since I arrived here, others have called to wish me good bye, bringing presents of figs, cocoa-nuts and bananas.”  (Isabella Bird, 1894)

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