Images of Old Hawaiʻi

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Six Active Volcanoes in Hawai‘i

The Hawaiian Islands are at the southeast end of a chain of volcanoes that began to form more than 70 million years ago. Each island is made of one or more volcanoes, which first erupted on the floor of the Pacific Ocean and emerged above sea level only after countless eruptions.

Hawaiʻi sits over a ‘hot spot,’ the Hawaiian hot spot.

It’s one hot spot, but lots of volcanoes have formed over it.  The Islands are above a moving sea floor of the North Pacific Ocean (the Pacific Ocean is mostly floored by a single tectonic plate known as the “Pacific Plate.”)

The Pacific Plate is moving over the layer in the Earth known as the Asthenosphere. This movement takes it to the northwest.  As the plate moves over a fixed spot deeper in the Earth where magma (molten lava) forms, a new volcano can punch through this plate and create an island.

As the plate moves away, the volcano stops erupting and a new one is formed in its place. With time, the volcanoes keep drifting westward and getting older relative to the one active volcano that is over the hot spot.

As they age, the crust that they sit on cools and subsides. This, combined with erosion of the islands, once active volcanism stops, leads to a shrinking of the islands with age and their eventual submergence below the ocean surface.

Each island is made up of at least one primary volcano, although many islands are composites of more than one. The Big Island, for instance, is constructed of 5 major volcanoes: Kilauea, Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea, Hualālai and Kohala (the island is still growing, but is basically about 400,000-years old.)

About 40-million years ago, the Pacific Plate changed direction from north to northwest – so the Emperor Seamounts run more north-south, the Hawaiian Ridge north-westerly.

Midway Island is 27.7-million years old; Meiji Seamount the northern part of the Emperor Seamount (near the end of the Aleutian chain) is about 80-million years old.

All of these are still youngsters, when you look at the perspective, say, of the dinosaurs.  The Islands weren’t even a glimmer in anyone’s eyes when dinosaurs walked the Earth; sixty-five million years ago the last of the non-avian dinosaurs went extinct, after living on Earth for about 165-million years.  (USGS)

If all of Earth time from the very beginning of the dinosaurs to today were compressed into 365 days (1 calendar year), the dinosaurs appeared January 1 and became extinct the third week of September.

Using this same time scale, the Earth would have formed approximately 18.5-years earlier. By comparison, people have been on earth only since December 31 (New Year’s eve.)  (USGS)

While we typically think of and/or hear news reports of eruptions on Kilauea and Maunaloa, presently, the US Geological Survey (USGS) Hawaiian Volcano Observatory  (HVO) monitors the six currently active volcanoes in Hawai‘i.

The Island of Hawai‘i, with four active volcanoes, is liveliest. Between 1912 and 2012, there were nearly 50 Kīlauea eruptions, 12 Mauna Loa eruptions, and one Hualālai intrusion of magma.

Kīlauea, the youngest and most active volcano on the Island of Hawai‘i, erupted almost continuously from 1983 to 2018 at Pu‘u‘ō‘ō and other vents along the volcano’s East Rift Zone. Since then, there have been periodic eruptions in and nearby Halema‘uma‘u crater at the volcano’s summit.

In 2018, Kīlauea experienced the largest lower East Rift Zone eruption and summit collapse in at least 200 years. Several summit eruptions since December 2020 have generated lava lakes that have been slowly filling in the collapsed area, including Halema‘uma‘u crater. About 90 percent of the volcano is covered with lava flows less than 1,100 years in age.

Mauna Loa, the largest volcano on Earth, has erupted 34 times since 1843. An eruption 1984 lasted 22 days and produced lava flows which reached to within about 4.5 miles of Hilo, the largest population center on the Island of Hawai‘i.

The most recent eruption in 2022 lasted two weeks and erupted lava flows that came to within 1.7 miles of the Daniel K Inouye Highway (Saddle Road). Lava flows less than 4,000 years old cover about 90 percent of the volcano.

Hualālai, the third most active volcano on the Island of Hawai‘i, has erupted three times in the past 1,000 years and eight times in the past 1,500 years.

The most recent eruption in 1801 generated a lava flow that reached the ocean and now underlies the Kona International Airport. Lava flows less than 5,000 years old cover about 80 percent of the volcano.

Mauna Kea, the highest volcano on the Island of Hawai‘i, erupted most recently between about 6,000 and 4,500 years ago from at least seven separate summit-area vents, producing lava flows and cinder cones. Glaciers covered parts of the volcano’s summit area during the recent ice ages, the only Hawaiian volcano known to have been glaciated.

Kama‘ehuakanaloa (formerly Lō‘ihi Seamount), the only known active Hawaiian submarine volcano, erupted most recently in 1996 during an earthquake swarm of more than 4,000 events that were recorded by the HVO seismic network. The volcano’s summit is about 3,179 ft below sea level, located 22 miles southeast of the Island of Hawai‘i.

Haleakalā, the only active volcano on the Island of Maui, erupted most recently between about 600 and 400 years ago. In the past 1,000 years, at least 10 eruptions produced lava flows and tephra cones from the rift zone that crosses the volcano from southwest to east and through Haleakalā Crater. (All here is from the US Geological Survey (USGS.))

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Mokihana Club

In 1903, the first Lihue Public Hall was built and a group of enthusiastic and resourceful young women undertook to assume the debt of $1,400.  “The ladies of Lihue and Hanamaulu met at the Social Hall … to prepare for the Fair, proposed for the benefit of the hall … They were busy in sewing and making articles to be sold at the fair.” (Evening Bulletin, Feb 15, 1905)

“Saturday, June 17th, the Day of the Fair, will be a red letter day long to be remembered in the annals of Lihue. … On that day all roads led to the Fair, and every road was astir with travelling feet.”

“The Hall debt of $1400 has been paid off and there is money left in the treasury. Great credit is due the ladies of Lihue and elsewhere for their untiring, enthusiastic work in the preparation and conduct of the Fair.”  (Pacific Commercial Advertiser, July 26, 1905)

The women were convinced of the need on Kauai for a group who would be a force for social and cultural stimulation that would undertake civic development and improvements. (Mokihana Club)

On November 5, 1905, twenty-six young women – under the leadership of Dora Isenberg – met at Nawiliwili and formed the Mokihana Club.

At the first regular meeting, Elsie Wilcox was elected president; Mrs. Sweetser, Vice President; Mrs. Carter, secretary; and Kate Christian, treasurer. Meetings were to be held on the first Wednesday of each month at 3 pm and dues were set at $1 per year.

The first civic project undertaken was to pioneer for a public library, and the Mokihana Club committee shared in establishing the Kauai Library Association.

As membership grew, the Club developed a new interest: a garden club and a beautification program.  The  group was responsible for much of the roadside and park planting that exists today. The Garden Club was one of the early committees whose function was to encourage the development of gardens.

The Club’s Beautification Committee, also called Garden Club Committee, Outdoor Improvement Committee and/or Village Improvement Committee, worked closely with the Outdoor Circle of O‘ahu, which consequently led to the formation of the Kauai Outdoor Circle in 1975. (Kauai Historical Society)

In 1916, the membership of the Club brought attention to the pressing need for health services, and appointed Mabel Wilcox, a registered nurse, as chairman of the Health Committee. Miss Mabel hired the first public health nurse, making possible the services of the Territorial Board of Health.

The Public Health Committee was established in October 1916 and it “was immediately successful in fulfilling that need.” The Committee raised funds for a nurse’s salary and provided her with lodging and a car.

A list of rules included a salary of $100 per month, and an auto plus $25 per month for auto expenses. Responsibilities included pre-natal care, well-baby clinics, nutrition guidance, and dental checks.

For the past two decades, Mokihana Club has presented scholarships to students in the Kauai Community College (KCC) Nursing Program.

The first chair of the Nursing Scholarship Committee, Marie Ryan Pietro, which appears relevant 20 years after the club’s first scholarship presentation said,

“We look forward to an ever-increasing program directly connected to one of the Mokihana Club founders, Miss Mabel Wilcox who graduated from the R.N. program at John Hopkins University, and was responsible for many of the local health decisions made those many years ago.” (The Garden Island)

The nursing students continue to remember and honor Miss Mabel Wilcox by hosting their traditional Pinning Ceremony following graduation on the grounds of the Grove Farm Museum, which was Wilcox’s residence. (The Garden Island) 

The Community Entertainment Committee was responsible for the planning of all entertainment given under the auspices of the Club.

Until about the 1940s, this consisted primarily of Christmas activities – the Community Christmas tableaux held for the enjoyment of the public at the Lihue Armory, the delivery of Christmas trees to schools, and candy to school children for example.

The Community Education Committee was formed to take an active interest in the betterment of educational conditions existing in the community. A 1925 annual committee report mentions developing a League of Women Voters on Kauai, but notes that the Club would “let our successors undertake that project.”

This committee later became the Social Service Committee. A 1966 Community Service report notes that the “Club has been inactive.” It is possible that members felt that other organizations were filling the educational needs of the community.

In 1955, The Mokihana Club sponsored the first performance of the Honolulu Symphony Orchestra on Kauai. In the ensuing years, the Symphony introduced island students to music through concerts and classroom visits by orchestra members.

The Mokihana Club gives music scholarships to graduating seniors of voice or instruments to continue their music studies after high school.

The scholarship funding for nursing and music awards is generated by concerts featuring Hawaiian artists (recently, Kalani Pe‘a (2023) and Jeff Peterson and Keola Beamer (2024)), golf tournaments, wine tastings, and other programs and events.

Membership in The Mokihana Club is open to all interested women who is a resident of Kauai or regular visitor, and who is willing to cooperate in the work of the Club; to become a member you must be sponsored by two other members and voted on by the Board of Directors.

Annual dues are $25 which covers membership from October through June, the yearbook with the Club Constitution and Bylaws, and the Membership Directory. If you are interested in joining please contact at info@TheMokihanaClub.org.  (Information here is from Mokihana Club and Kauai Historical Society.)

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Kapuanoni

“The village with the walled pond and grove of hau and coconut trees was Kahalu‘u, and Kahalu‘u-kai-ākea was the chief who controlled the ahupua‘a which bears his name.”

“He was the father of the beautiful, glowing-skinned chiefess, Mākole‘ā. The beauty of Kahalu‘u is described with the saying “Kahalu‘u ua ‘āina ala i ka wai puka iki o Helani” (Kahalu‘u is the land [known for] the small rising waters of Helani.)”

“At Kahalu‘u, Hale‘ōpele was the āhua (hillock-agricultural feature) covered with coconut trees…”

“…A hō‘ea i ke kuono iloko he ‘ili‘ili wale no ke one, a ke kai e po‘i ana me ka ho‘omaha ‘ole o nā Keauhou ia — And when you arrived at a bay with pebbly sand, where the ocean continuously laps upon the shore it was Keauhou…”

“A komo mai la ‘olua i ka ulu ‘ōhi‘a o nä Keauhou ia, o ka ulu ‘ōhi‘a o Moku‘aikaua — and when you entered the ‘ōhi‘a grove in the lands of Keauhou, it was the ‘ōhi‘a grove of Moku‘aikaua…” (Ka Hōkū o Hawai‘i, April 9, 1914, Maly)

At Kahalu‘u is Kapuanoni Heiau … “Only portions of walls could be traced, 97 feet apart; one of them, a wall foundation, could be followed for 40 feet, and the other, a standing wall 4.5 feet wide, was distinguishable for 34 feet. The place had the appearance of having been much disturbed in early times.”

“It is now overgrown with hau. Local information, from the grandson of its last priest, was that the heiau was built by Kalani‘ōpu‘u and that it was for prayers in general.” (Stokes, 1906) It was “a temple dedicated to agricultural and fishing success.” (NPS)

Thrum (1908) describes Kapuanoni as “a large heiau of Kahaluu, described as an ancient puuhonua and luakini, built in the time of Lono.”

“Tradition has it that when Malaihi was its kahu (or keeper), a native fled to it from Pahoehoe and was followed in by his pursuers, seized, and taken away without remonstrance, which violation coming to the ears of the king he had the keeper slain and sacrificed on the altar of Ohiamukumuku.”

The name “ka pua noni” can be translated literally as ‘the’ (ka) ‘noni flower’ (pua noni). The deeper kaona (meaning) behind this place name has not been passed on. (SWCA)

Kapuanoni is situated on the promontory that forms the southern headland of Kahaluʻu Bay and is surrounded by water on three sides. The heiau formed an integral component of the chiefly and religious compound of coastal Kahalu‘u during the traditional period. (SWCA)

Subsequent to c. 1730s, the chiefs Alapa‘i, Kalani‘ōpu‘u, and Kamehameha I, are all associated with residency and activities in this region of Kona, with specific references to Kahalu‘u and Keauhou. (Maly)

“The years 1775, 1776, 1777, 1778, and 1779. Kalaniopuu went to war at Kaupo on Maui, with his Alii, his war Officers, and his soldiers. Kalaniopuu first went to war at Kaupo …” (Kuakoa, Dec 8, 1866)

“Ka-lani-‘opu‘u returned to Hawaii embittered against Ka-hekili by the realization of his defeat, and spent a year in preparing an army made up of a body or men from each of the six districts of the island, each division led by a warrior chief.” (Kamakau)

“Six army corps or brigades were organised, and became known by the names of I, Ahu, Mahi, Palena, Luahine, and Paia; the members of the royal family were formed into a life-guard, called Keawe; and the Alii-ai-alo – the nobles who had the privilege of eating at the same table with the Moi – composed two regiments called Alapa and Piipii.”

“While thus preparing material resources, Kalaniopuu was not forgetful of his duties to the god whom he acknowledged and whose aid he besought. This god was Kaili – pronounced fully ‘Ku-kaili-moku’ – who, from the days of Liloa, and probably before, appears to have been the special war-god of the Hawaii Mois.” (Fornander)

“[H]e repaired and put in good order the Heiaus called ‘Ohiamukumuku’ at Kahaluu, and ‘Keikipuipui’ at Kailua, in the Kona district, and the high priest Holoae was commanded to maintain religious services and exert all his knowledge and power to accomplish the defeat and death of the Maui sovereign.” (Fornander)  Kalani‘ōpu‘u is also credited with building the heiau of Kapuanoni, presumably during this time. (Maly)

At the time of Captain James Cook’s arrival (1778-1779), the Hawaiian Islands were divided into four kingdoms: (1) the island of Hawaiʻi under the rule of Kalaniʻōpuʻu, who also had possession of the Hāna district of east Maui; (2) Maui (except the Hāna district,) Molokai, Lānai and Kahoʻolawe, ruled by Kahekili; (3) Oʻahu, under the rule of Kahahana; and at (4) Kauai and Niʻihau, Kamakahelei was ruler.

When Cook arrived on the Island of Hawai‘i (1779), Kalaniʻōpuʻu was on the island to Maui to contend with Kahekili, king of Maui. The east side of Maui had fallen into the hands of Kalaniʻōpuʻu and Kahekili was fighting with him to gain control.

Kalaniʻōpuʻu returned to Hawaiʻi and met with Cook on January 26, 1779, exchanging gifts, including an ʻahuʻula (feathered cloak) and mahiole (ceremonial feather helmet.)   Cook also received pieces of kapa, feathers, hogs and vegetables.

“After Captain Cook’s death [in 1779] Kalaniopuu dwelt some time in the Kona district, about Kahaluu and Keauhou, diverting himself with Hula performances, in which it is said that he frequently took an active part, notwithstanding his advanced age. “

“Scarcity of food, after a while, obliged Kalaniopuu to remove his court into the Kohala district, where his headquarters were fixed at Kapaau.” (Fornander)

“During the period of his rule, between c. 1782 to 1819, Kamehameha I was noted for his dedication to his gods and their kapu. Kamakau records that Kamehameha I dedicated the heiau of Kama-i-ke‘e-kū and ‘Ōhi‘a-mukumuku in Kahalu‘u to his war god.”

“In Thrum’s account of Hawaiian temples, readers are told that Kamehameha also built the heiau named Hāpaiali‘i shortly after the battle at Moku‘ōhai in c. 1782. It was through the battle of Moku‘ōhai at Ke‘ei, that Kamehameha I secured a portion of the island of Hawai‘i under his rule.”

“Also, following the death of Kalani‘ōpu‘u the lands of Kahalu‘u and the “two Keauhou” were among those divided between the chiefs.”

“Among the most important ali‘i of the Kamehameha I period associated with Keauhou and Kahalu‘u, was the chiefess Keōpūolani, known in her youth as Wahinepio. She was raised at Keauhou, where she lived until ca. 1795.”

“The daughter of Kïwala‘ō, she was also the sacred wife of Kamehameha I, and mother of the children who succeeded him in rule.” (Maly)

“Kuakini was born in 1791, while his parents lived at Kahalu‘u and Keauhou. Kuakini was a younger brother of Ka‘ahumanu, the favored wife of Kamehameha I, and regarding the birth of Kuakini, and his tie to the lands of Kahalu‘u and Keauhou, Kamakau, recorded that:”

“At the birth of the child [Kuakini] there was a great hula at Kaha-lu‘u, and the name hula (hula inoa) was being danced for the birth of the new son to Na-mahana and Ke‘e-aumoku.”

“Visitors came to bring gifts (ho‘okupu), and among them was Ka-mehe-‘ai-ku who had gone away and hidden in the country and slept with a man and given birth to a child.”

“She was a cousin of Ke‘e-au-moku, and when she was discovered among the spectators at the hula Ke‘e-au-moku gave the child to her to suckle and gave with him the land of Keauhou; and Ka-mehe-‘ai-ku took the little chief to Keauhou and there nourished him until he was grown…” (Kamakau, Maly)

“In 1931, a visitor to nearby Keauhou Bay described Kahalu‘u as ‘miles off the beaten path … a place where people used to live in numbers and now live no more’ (Schench). By the 1950s, the area was mostly abandoned and heavily overgrown”

“In 1970, the Outrigger Keauhou Beach Hotel was constructed just inland of Kapuanoni Heiau. The heiau was situated directly adjacent to the hotel pool.” (SWCA) (The demolition of the Keauhou Beach Hotel was completed in August 2018.) (KSBE)

While some of the walls of the heiau complex remain, the seaward edges of the structure have been badly damaged by high surf events while its interior has been modified by various additions and reconstruction efforts undertaken when it formed part of the grounds of the Outrigger Keauhou Beach Resort.

In 2005, the trustees of Kamehameha Schools decided to restore the five coastal heiau of Kahalu‘u, including Kapuanoni.  Restoration of two heiau (Ke‘ekū and Hāpaiali‘i) was completed in 2009.  Restoration of Makoleā followed that and planning and activities to restore Kapuanoni and Po‘o Hawai‘i pond are underway.

Drone flyover of Kapuanoni: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxsRxa1pimA&t=1s (SWCA)

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Alāla

Alāla (lit., awakening) is a point at the south end of Kailua Beach that separates Kailua Beach and Kaʻōhao (an ʻili in the Kailua ahupuaʻa – the area is now more commonly called Lanikai) on Oʻahu.

The point takes its name from the fishing shrine, a natural stone formation, on the ridge above. Wailea, a companion fishing shrine (and point,) is located at the south end of Lanikai.  (Ulukau)

In 1920, a bridge was constructed across Kaʻelepulu Stream, giving better access to the area.

Shortly after, Harold Kainalu Long Castle sold land to developer Charles Russell Frazier (the head of Town and Country Homes, Ltd., which was the real estate division of the Trent Trust Co) to create what Frazier and Trent called Lanikai (a name they made up.)

They laid out the subdivision and the first permanent homes in the area were constructed in 1924. Development began at the northern end of the neighborhood and moved further south along the beach.

The area was initially considered a remote country location for weekend getaways or vacations at the beach for swimming, fishing, boating and hiking.

The construction of the Lanikai streets was completed by October 1925. Included in the deeds for the Lanikai subdivision were restrictions that remained in effect until 1950, against building within 18-feet of the property boundary line along the street or using the property for anything other than residences.

At about the same time, Frazier leased a couple-hundred acres of neighboring land from Bishop Estate.  He persuaded sixty-five men, many of whom were purchasing his lots and cottages at Lanikai, to commit to a country club project (Kailua Country Club; the name quickly changed to Mid-Pacific Country Club.)

In 1926, the development doubled in size and Frazier added the now-iconic monument at the entrance to the development.

It was designed by the famed local architect Hart Wood.  (Wood, known for residential and commercial structures (including Alexander & Baldwin Building and Honolulu Hale,) designed the also-iconic “Hawaiian” double-hipped roof pattern and “lanai” or broad roofed-in patio with open sides.)

The Lanikai Monument’s use of rough concrete and stone is in keeping with Wood’s experiments with natural stone indigenous to the structure’s site, an example of which is his Makiki Christian Science Church.

The Lanikai Monument is a simple pillar located on a narrow strip of land that is a high point next to the road; it’s there to mark the boundary and entry point of the subdivision and golf course. It is still in its original location and its original design remains almost intact.

The tapered concrete base structure is 40-feet in circumference and 56 inches high. The pillar is made of concrete and stone.

The 16 foot tall pillar has a gentle taper from its 5-foot-diameter lower portion to a slightly narrower and rounded concrete top that is capped with a conical concrete cap. Two curved metal plates near the top bear the name, “Lanikai.”  (NPS)

For decades, beach houses in Lanikai were mainly used as a retreat from Honolulu; however, in the 1950s, the area began to develop into a more suburban residential area.  (The Pali Highway and its tunnels opened in 1959; that helped spark the change.)

Lanikai Beach had a white sandy beach approximately one mile long (about half of this has disappeared over the years due to erosion and seawalls along the shore.)

During cleaning of the monument in 2001, it lost its pointed metal spear at the top, as well as the heavy chain that surrounded the monument and draped from four metal rings.

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Keanianileihuaokalani – Healing Stone of Wahiawa

Cultures collided at Keanianileihuaokalani.

Keanianileihuaokalani was a large tongue-shaped stone that has since been split into three pieces. Hawaiians view it as a healing stone; Hindus see it as an embodiment of the god Shiva.  (According to reports, they appear to have worked (working) out how they work together.)

Reportedly, originally found in Kaukonahua gulch by a Waialua Sugar worker, the 6-foot stone broke when it fell off a wagon while being moved.  (They are now situated at the lower end of California Avenue in Wahiawa.)

Hawaiians believe that the stone has sacred healing properties. It was believed that all children of royal lineage were thrice blessed and elevated to a higher status if born at nearby Kūkaniloko, the center of the earth.  (Reveria)

After childbirth, the new mothers would bath in the cool springs of Helemano. It was this mingling of blood and water that culminated into the healing mystic rains that fell upon the land, people and most importantly Keanianileihuaokalani giving the healing stone its healing powers.  (Reveria)

On the day of a royal birth, all work stopped in anticipation of the first healing rains generated from the blessed event. These rains were Waiʻihiawa, mystical rains tainted with the blood of royalty. This healing rain fell freely on the people who lived and worked in Kūkaniloko.  (Reveria)

“This rock being visited by people to worship these days is becoming something that truly is stirring the thoughts of some people here in Honolulu, and some who are living near Wahiawa are appealing to the Government and to the power of the Board of Health to move that rock from where it first stood, because in their opinion, this action by the people will cause an epidemic to grow here where all ethnicities are going and touching themselves against the bodies of others, and this will perhaps cause sicknesses to spread from one to another.”

“The Board of Health refused to step in and block this action by people who believe their ailments will be healed by touching the sick area to that rock of Wahiawa, and the birthing stones of the High Chiefs of this land in ancient times.”

“Some people have said that their weakness due to rheumatism by them going there and touching their areas of pain to that rock. Some say that their weak areas were not cured by touching the rock.”  (Hoku o Hawaiʻi, November 1, 1927)

According to practitioners, the stone should be anointed with Waiʻihiawa rainwater.  Appropriate and appreciated gifts are awa root, olena sprigs, herbs, lei and flowers.  (Reveria)

In 1971 the Wahiawa Community and Businessmen’s Association asked the Hawaii Visitors Bureau to put up a sign to again call public attention to the “Healing Stone of Wahiawa.”

Hindu, who assumed a caretaker role for the stone also revere it as a manifestation of their deity, Shiva (it is interpreted to have a phallic shape.)

The Hindu recognized it as a Shiva image in 1988.  At the time, the structure that enclosed the stones on three sides was a dilapidated concrete shed; a Hindu family turned the shed into a white marble shrine.

Hindus anoint themselves with smoke from sacred candles, part of the ceremonial cleansing of the stones.  In their ritual, the stone is bathed in milk, rubbed with honey and draped with lei.  (Reportedly, contrary to some claims, Hindus do not put oil or candle wax on the stone.)

The “healing stones” of Wahiawa drew hundreds of pilgrims in the 1930s, but few local people or tourists find their way to the off-the-beaten-path location these days.   (star-bulletin)

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