Images of Old Hawaiʻi

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Early Sugar Use … Rum

The early Polynesian settlers to Hawaiʻi brought sugar cane with them and demonstrated that it could be grown successfully.  In 1802, sugar was first made in the islands on the island of Lānai by a native of China.

He came here in one of the vessels trading for sandalwood, and brought a stone mill and boilers and, after grinding off one small crop and making it into sugar, went back the next year with his fixtures, to China.

But it wasn’t development of a sweetener that was one of the first popular uses of the canoe crop (that later ended up changing the landscape and social make-up of the Islands.)

“In short it might be well worth the attention of Government to make the experiment and settle these islands by planters from the West Indies, men of humanity, industry and experienced abilities in the exercise of their art would here in a short time be enabled to manufacture sugar and rum from luxuriant fields of cane equal if not superior to the produce of our West India plantations.”  (Menzies, 1793)

Rum is a beverage that seems to have had its origins on the 17th century Caribbean sugarcane plantations and by the 18th century its popularity had spread throughout world.  Rum is a distilled alcoholic beverage made from sugarcane byproducts by a process of fermentation and distillation.

The origin of the word ‘rum’ is generally unclear. In an 1824 essay about the word’s origin, Samuel Morewood suggested the word ‘rum’ might be from the British slang term for ‘the best,’ as in “having a rum time.  … it would be called rum, to denote its excellence or superior quality.” (Samuel Morewood, 1824)

According to Kamakau, “The first taste that Kamehameha and his people had of rum was at Kailua in 1791 or perhaps a little earlier, brought in by Captain Maxwell. Kamehameha went out to the ship with (John) Young and (Isaac) Davis when it was sighted off Keāhole Point and there they all drank rum.”

“Then nothing would do but Kalanimōku must get some of this sparkling water, and he was the first chief to buy rum.”

Shortly thereafter, while in Waikīkī, after having tasted the “dancing water,” Kamehameha I gained the apparent honor of having spread the making of rum from Oʻahu to Hawaiʻi island. (Kanahele)

After he saw a foreigner make rum in Honolulu, he set up his own still. Spurred by his own appetite for rum, he soon made rum drinking common among chiefs and chiefesses as well as commoners. (Kanahele)  Many of the subsequent royalty and chiefs also drank alcoholic beverages (several overindulged.)

Within a decade or so, Island residents were producing liquor on a commercial basis. “It was while Kamehameha was on Oʻahu that rum was first distilled in the Hawaiian group,” wrote Kamakau.

“In 1809 rum was being distilled by the well-known foreigner, Oliver Holmes, at Kewalo, and later he and David Laho-loa distilled rum at Makaho.”  Several small distilleries were in operation by the 1820s.

By November 1822, Honolulu had seventeen grog shops operated by foreigners.  Drinking places were one of the earliest types of retail business established in the Islands.

“For some years after the arrival of missionaries at the islands it was not uncommon in going to the enclosure of the king, or some other place of resort, to find after a previous night’s revelry, exhausted cases of ardent spirits standing exposed and the emptied bottles strewn about in confusion.” (Dibble)

In 1825 an English agriculturist named John Wilkinson, who in his younger years had been a planter in the West Indies, arrived at Honolulu on the frigate Blonde. He had made some arrangement with Governor Boki, while the latter was in England, to go out and engage in cultivating sugar cane and coffee and in making sugar and, probably, rum.  (Kuykendall)

A plantation was established in the upper part of Mānoa valley. Six months after beginning operations Wilkinson had about seven acres of cane growing, Untimely rains raised the stream and destroyed a dam under construction at the mill site. (Kuykendall)  His partners constructed a still and began to make rum from molasses.  (Daws)

Boki’s trade in entertaining the visiting ships and distilling liquor ran him afoul of the missionaries and Kaʻahumanu.   Kaʻahumanu had him fined in 1827 for misconduct, intemperance, fornication and adultery, apparently in connection with his brothels and grog-shops.  (Nogelmeier)

Kaʻahumanu ordered the sugar cane on his Mānoa plantation to be torn up when she found it was to be used for rum.  When Boki could no longer provide the cane for distilling and Kaʻahumanu had the sugar crop destroyed, Boki turned to distilling ti-root.    (Nogelmeier)

In March 1838, the first liquor license law was enacted, which prohibited all selling of liquors without a license under a fine of fifty dollars for the first offense, to be increased by the addition of fifty dollars for every repetition of the offense.  (The Friend, December 1887)

All houses for the sale of liquor were to be closed at ten o’clock at night, and from Saturday night until Monday morning.  Drunkenness was prohibited in the licensed houses under a heavy fine to the drinker, and the loss of his license to the seller.  (The Friend, December 1887)

In 1843, the seamen’s chaplain, Samuel C. Damon, started ‘The Temperance Advocate and Seamen’s Friend;’ he soon changed its name to simply “The Friend.”   Through it, he offered ‘Six Hints to seamen visiting Honolulu’ (the Friend, October 8, 1852,) his first ‘Hint,’ “Keep away from the grog shops.”

However, that was pretty wishful thinking, given the number and distribution of establishments in the early-years of the fledgling city and port on Honolulu.

In 1874, a legislative act was passed that allowed distillation of rum on sugar plantations.  According to a report in ‘The Friend,’ “the only planter in the Legislature voted three times against the passage of the Act.”  The first export of Hawaiian rum was made on May 15, 1875 – the product of Heʻeia Plantation.  (Today, others are making a comeback.)

The sweetener production focus of sugar caught hold. The first commercially-viable sugar plantation, Ladd and Co., was started at Kōloa on Kaua‘i.  On July 29, 1835 (187 years ago, today,) Ladd & Company obtained a 50-year lease on nearly 1,000-acres of land and established a plantation and mill site in Kōloa.

Hawai‘i’s economy turned toward sugar in the decades between 1860 and 1880; these twenty years were pivotal in building the plantation system.  A century after Captain Cook’s arrival in Hawaiʻi, sugar plantations started to dominate the landscape.

At the industry’s peak in the 1930s, Hawaii’s sugar plantations employed more than 50,000 workers and produced more than 1-million tons of sugar a year; over 254,500-acres were planted in sugar.  That plummeted to 492,000 tons in 1995.

With statehood in 1959 and the almost simultaneous introduction of passenger jet airplanes, the tourist industry began to grow rapidly.  A majority of the plantations closed in the 1990s.  As sugar declined, tourism took its place – and far surpassed it.  Like many other societies, Hawaii underwent a profound transformation from an agrarian to a service economy.

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Orteric

A century after Captain James Cook’s arrival in Hawaiʻi, sugar plantations started to dominate the landscape.  What encouraged the development of plantations in Hawaiʻi?

For one, the gold rush and settlement of California opened a lucrative market.  Likewise, the Civil War virtually shut down Louisiana sugar production during the 1860s, enabling Hawai‘i to compete with elevated prices for sugar.

In addition, the Treaty of Reciprocity-1875 between the US and the Kingdom of Hawai‘i eliminated the major trade barrier to Hawai‘i’s closest and major market.  Through the treaty, the US gained Pearl Harbor and Hawai‘i’s sugar planters received duty-free entry into US markets.

However, a shortage of laborers to work in the growing (in size and number) sugar plantations became a challenge.  The only answer was imported labor.

Starting in the 1850s, when the Hawaiian Legislature passed “An Act for the Governance of Masters and Servants,” a section of which provided the legal basis for contract-labor system, labor shortages were eased by bringing in contract workers from Asia, Europe and North America.

There were three big waves of workforce immigration: Chinese – 1852; Japanese – 1885 and Filipinos – 1905.  Several smaller, but substantial, migrations also occurred: Portuguese – 1877; Norwegians – 1880; Germans – 1881; Puerto Ricans – 1900; Koreans – 1902 and Spanish – 1907.

Reasons why people left their homeland to come work in the Hawai‘i sugar plantations varied: some were looking for opportunity and a better life; some were looking for work (there was economic turmoil in their homeland); some left because of political strife … some thought they could make/save some money and return.

An often-overlooked issue with the emigration of these foreign workers to the Islands was the means of getting there.  Many sugar workers came in groups.  One such (and not necessarily the norm) was the sailing of the Orteric.

Of British registry, “The Orteric is a large vessel, fitted with accommodations for about twenty cabin passengers. And is a large cargo carrier, being able to accommodate 10,000 tons dead weight. She can steam twelve to thirteen knots an hour and has 3000 indicated horsepower.”

“She belongs to the Weir line and is on her maiden voyage, having been launched at Greenock, England, on January 28, 1911.  She will probably join other Weir liners, which operate between Seattle and Orient ports.”

“She has a length of 460 feet and is fifty seven feet breadth. … The Orteric sailed from London on February 16 [1911] and at Oporto picked up a batch of immigrants, taking on 305 there. At Lisbon 260 people were taken on, and at Gibraltar 960 Spaniards were sent on the vessel.”

“‘They appear to be a fine lot of people,’ said Secretary of the Territory Mott-Smith, when he went among them.  Dr Victor Clark head of the territorial immigration board agreed with him. The doctor stated that the Portuguese came from agricultural districts back of Lisbon, while the Spanish came from the districts of Seville land mountain districts.” (Hawaiian Gazette, April 14, 1911)

“The immigrants are decidedly glad that their journey has ended.  ‘Vive la Republique’ shouted one husky looking Spaniard, as he fairly leaped from the gangway of the steamer to the wharf.”

“He shouted so that the shed resounded with his exultation.  He leaped as he sped through the shed and when he reached the open air and felt the soil of Hawaii under his feet he waved his hat.” (Hawaiian Gazette, April 14, 1911)

But the arrival was about the only good news about their voyage to Hawai‘i.

“Death stalked among the fifteen hundred Spanish and Portuguese Immigrants aboard the British immigrant steamer Orteric, which arrived yesterday after its long voyage from Spain and Portugal. Fifty eight deaths were recorded among the children during the voyage.”

“Measles was the cause as entered on the ships log and in all but one instance the bodies were consigned to the sea for burial but the federal quarantine officers detected evidences of scarlet fever …”

“… and the territorial board of health, which looked after the body of the child who died just as the steamer was about to enter the harbor announced last evening that death was due to scarlet fever and the immigrants were ordered sent to quarantine Island.” (Hawaiian Gazette, April 14, 1911)

“[A] Portuguese middle aged and carrying heavy bundles ran down the gangway his eyes almost glittering as he ran through the shed knocking his countrymen right and left shouting: ‘Away from that jail away from that jail!’”

“He turned a look of disgust upon the ship and it is little wonder he wished to leave it for death and filth had full sway upon the vessel for nearly fifty days.”  (Hawaiian Gazette, April 14, 1911)

“Upon the arrival of the vessel at Honolulu an inspection thereof was made by the customs officers under the direction of the Collector of the Port, who thereafter rendered a report to the Collector of the Port, wherein they found that the master of the vessel, James F. Findlay, had violated the … Passenger Act of Aug. 2, 1882”. (US Court of Appeals, Ninth Circuit, July 12, 1915))

The Passenger Act was implemented to address reforms to passenger conditions on board ships and set minimum standards for berths, light and ventilation, food, hospitals, discipline and cleanliness and reporting requirements upon entering US ports.

“Owing to the great number of deaths, the grand jury, which was in session at the time, went on board and made an exhaustive examination of the vessel.”

“On the lower deck on which passengers were berthed neither latrines nor conveniences were provided for the passengers, in many instances empty meat cans being used; all of the latrines were on the upper deck and could be used only by passengers able or willing to climb there, and they were flushed but twice a day.”

“No proper method was adopted to protect the vessel against the filthy conditions which were thus necessarily created; the decks were not washed and the filth apparently was permitted to remain, in alternate layers of filth, sawdust and disinfectants …”

“… the result was an almost intolerable stench which filled the dark and poorly ventilated compartments and existed even up to the day when the vessel was examined by the grand jury. No conveniences were originally provided for the use of children and such as were provided were improvised after the vessel commenced her voyage, and were wholly unfit from all standpoints.”

“Although the vessel crossed the equator twice on the voyage, no bathrooms were provided, and up to within a few weeks of the completion of the voyage the only way in which a bath of any kind could be taken was in the public washroom.”

“No attempt appears to have been made to muster the passengers on deck when weather permitted as required by law; or to air or clean the bedding during the entire voyage, and when the vessel arrived at Honolulu it became necessary to burn all the mattresses.”

“The grand jury stated that no opportunities were afforded the passengers for keeping clean and that it is to be wondered no more deaths occurred than actually took place.” (American Marine Engineer, Jan 1912)

“Charged with the worst case of neglect of steerage passengers on record under the Passenger Act of 1882, the owners of the British steamer Orteric have been fined $7,960 by Acting Secretary Cable of the Department of Commerce and Labor.”

“Among her 1,242 passengers there were in the eight weeks of her voyage fifty-eight deaths, being children; the births numbered fourteen; the sexes were not properly segregated during the larger part of the time …”

“… the ventilation of the ship was inadequate and greately increased the mortality rate; the hospital facilities were and without proper equipment, while the sanitary conditions of the vessel were almost beyond belief.”

“Acting Secretary Cable, after giving ample opportunity for the ship’s agent to make a defense, directed today that the full penalties be imposed.” (New Mexico Review, Dec 14, 1911)

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Palapala Kila Nui

“Under the ancient feudal system the allodium of all lands belonged to the King, not however, as an individual, but ‘as the head of the nation, or in his corporate right,’ to quote the language of the land commission.”

“The constitution of 1840 declared that the land of the Kingdom was not the private property of Kamehameha I. ‘It belonged to the chiefs and people in common, of whom Kamehameha I was the head, and had the management of the landed property.’” (Alexander)

“[I]n 1848 a committee was appointed to effect the division between the King as feudal suzerain and the chiefs, his feudatories, which completed its work in forty days. Partition deeds were signed and sealed by the King on one side and the several chiefs on the other side, who were then entitled to receive awards from the land commission for the lands thus partitioned off to them.”

“[T]he lands held by the King at the close of the Mahele were not regarded as his private property, strictly speaking. Even before his division with the landlords a second division between himself and the Government was clearly contemplated …”

“Accordingly, on the very day after the Mahele, or division with his chiefs, was closed, viz, the 8th day of March, 1848, he proceeded ‘to set apart for the use of the Government the larger part of his royal domain, reserving to himself what he deemed a reasonable amount of land as his own estate.’”

“This latter class of lands ‘he reserved for himself and his heirs forever’ as his own private estate, and they are now known as Crown Lands.”

“On the 7th day of the following June, 1848, the legislative council passed the ‘act relating to the lands of His Majesty the King and of the Government,’ which confirms and ratifies the division which had already been made by the King, thus making it an act of the nation through its representatives.”

“In this act the said lands are designated by name, and declared ‘to be the private lands of His Majesty Kamehameha III, to have and to hold to himself, his heirs, and successors forever; and said lands shall be regulated and disposed of according to his royal will and pleasure, subject only to the rights of tenants.’” (Alexander)

“Government lands were administered by the Minister of the Interior who was empowered by law to sell and lease. As the Land Commission could only consider claims to farms and building lots arising prior to December 10, 1845, many of the people were deprived of the opportunity to secure lands for themselves.”

“So to provide for this class the Minister of Interior was authorized in the early days of the new regime to sell building lots and tracts of land from a fraction of an acre to several hundred acres, at prices ranging from twenty-five cents to one dollar an acre.”

“The Minister of Interior was also authorized to dispose of government lands by sales for many other purposes.” (King)  On July 11, 1851, an Act was passed confirming certain resolutions of the Privy Council of the previous year, which ordered …”

“‘.. that a certain portion of the Government lands on each island should be placed in the hands of special agents to be disposed of in lots of from one to fifty acres in fee simple, to residents only, at a minimum price of fifty cents per acre.’”  (Interior Department, Surveyor’s Report, 1882)

Between the years 1850 and 1860, nearly all the desirable Government land was sold, generally to Hawaiians. The portions sold were surveyed at the expense of the purchaser.  (Interior Department, Surveyor’s Report, 1882)

“Following the division of the lands into Crown, Government, and Konohiki Lands, from time to time portions of the Government Lands were sold as a means of obtaining revenue to meet the increasing costs of the Government.”

“Purchasers of these lands were issued documents called ‘Grants’ or ‘Royal Patent Grants.’ These differed from the Royal Patents issued upon Land Commission Awards.” (Chinen)

These Land Grants were given for lands that were purchased by individuals from the Hawaiian Kingdom when they were made available for purchase in mid-1800s. (UH Mānoa Library) The term used for these was Palapala Kila Nui (also Palapala Sila Nui, aka Government Grant; Royal Patent).

Royal Patent Grants (until 1893) and Land Patents conferred fee simple title to a Government land. This was an outright purchase of Government land, and not a commutation of the Government’s interest in land. The last Royal Patent was number 7992. (UH Manoa Library)

“This class of conveyance is designated a Royal Patent (Grant) and since the overthrow of the monarchy, as Land Patent (Grant). It is more commonly known as a Grant and so designated on most of the title maps.”

“These grants are recorded in a series of books now deposited in the office of the Commissioner of Public Lands. Many conveyances by the Minister of Interior were by the ordinary deed method which deeds were recorded by the grantees in the Bureau of Conveyances.”  (King)

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Public Baths

In the late-19th Century, Waikīkī’s shoreline was mostly a day-use beach; overnight accommodations were scarce.  Visitors, usually residents of Honolulu, would arrive via horse-drawn carriage, on horseback or in a canoe.  (White)

“The most popular resort of the people of Oʻahu is the famous Waikīkī … Waikīkī is the seaside and pleasure-resort of the island. … There are a number of private residences, picturesque-looking bungalows and cottages, but all airy, comfortable, and close to the murmuring sea. A beautiful grove of towering coconut-trees adds to the tropical charm of the place.”  (Musick, 1898)

“The sea bathing is simply perfection. The water is never chilly; and yet it is most healthful and invigorating. The bottom is of nice smooth sand, always warm and pleasant to the feet. There is no fear of undertow or of any finny monsters. Not only is it pleasant to bathe here during the day, but moonlight bathing is indulged in. … It is a novelty, worth seeing, if not worth trying.  (Whitney, 1895)

Just as “sea bathing” were gaining popularity on the American and European continents, private bathhouses, like the Long Branch Baths, Ilaniwai Baths and Wright’s Villa, began to appear in Waikīkī.  (White)

Bathhouses began to appear along Waikiki Beach during the last quarter of the 19th Century. As early as the 1870s, for example, the Hawaiian Hotel “provided a cottage on the sea-shore at Waikiki, some three miles distant, where guests can . . . enjoy a morning or evening bath in the ocean.”

During the early ’90s, beachgoers patronized the Long Branch Baths with its “comfortable dressing rooms, fresh water douches, etc.” and the Waikiki Villa’s “commodious bath house” with “fresh water shower baths.” *Schmidt

“Bath-houses that equal those in Long Branch (New Jersey) are found here, and sea-bathing in January is as pleasant as in July. There is no clearer water, no finer beach, no smoother bottom in any of the many famous watering-places than are found at Waikīkī.”  (Musick, 1898)

Bathhouses served customers with bathing suits and towel rentals, dressing rooms and each access to the beach.  Initially, bathhouses served only day-use recreation of visitors, but eventually some of them began to offer overnight rooms.

The creation of the Public Baths alongside the aquarium in 1907 made it so there was a public beach for the first time in the park’s history.  (Reynolds)

An August 1907 news report stated, “The public bath house at the beach will be finished inside of the next two weeks. There are other conveniences aside from the large number of dressing rooms.  There is a large lounging room for ladles and their families, and a large dancing pavilion will soon be completed.”

In the men’s department there are thirty-five large dressing-rooms and six showers, In the ladles department there are accommodations for twenty bathers, with shower.” (Evening Bulletin, August 10, 1907) The City-owned public bathhouse was near Queen’s Surf Beach, in Kapiolani Park.

“When the moon become full Honolulu will see the opening of its first public dance pavilion. The building at the Kapiolani park bath-house has been put in shape for such dances … The Hawaiian band will be present to blow and beat the music for dancing.” (Star Bulletin, Dec 5, 1913)

“Twenty-five cents is the charge for use of a suit.  No charge is made to those who bring their own suits and use the lockers. The money taken is dropped in a box at the bath house window”. (Honolulu Advertiser, Sep 20, 1924)

Then City officials were urging the construction of “a better bathing house . . . more attractive and sanitary.” Subsequently denounced as “unsanitary” and “an eye-sore to the community for many years.” (Schmidt)

In 1930, “Plans for the new public building to be constructed soon … on the site of the present frame structure next to the memorial natatorium, will be completed within the next two weeks … The new bath house will be a long, narrow, one-story structure paralleling Kalakaua Ave.”

“The main room will be a large lounge, 96 feet long facing the sea and opening onto a stretch of turf through several tall archways. … On either side of the main lounge, which will be furnished with comfortable chairs and tables, will be situated the ample locker rooms …”

“… the men’s dressing quarters will be fitted with 280 lockers and nine showers. The women’s dressing room will contain 128 lockers, 52 dressing booths and seven showers.” (Star Bulletin, Jan 7, 1930)

In 1957 the Park Board changed the name of the Kapiolani Public Baths (aka Waikiki Public Baths) to the Kapiolani Beach Center. (Advertiser, Nov 5, 1957)

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

The Land Between

What does that mean?

It’s the uses between “urban” and “agriculture” – it’s not really urban and it’s not really agriculture.  It’s between the two and has the kind of land uses that share characteristics of each.

And, it’s generally what folks on the neighbor islands and parts of O‘ahu call their hometown areas.

For most places on the neighbor islands and many parts of Oʻahu we call this land use “Country” or “Rural” – it’s how the residents describe their communities and neighborhoods.  But it is a lost land use.

Here’s the math: out of over 4-million acres of land in the State, only 11,602-acres (less than 1/3 of 1% of the total land area) is “Rural.”

“Urban” has only 198,600 acres (less than 5% of the total;) and the balance is split pretty evenly between Agricultural (47%) and Conservation (48%) (about 1.9-million acres, each.)

Why is so much of the state considered by its residents as “rural” or “country,” but State planning has so little land area designated as such?

We are living with a land use regulatory process that was written and mapped 50-years ago.  Times have changed, yet the required updates to the mapping and associated regulations have not kept up with the times.

While the communities and Counties are more aware, sophisticated and up-to-date with their regional and locational planning, the State continues to look at land use with half-century old eyes.

Let’s correct this and call this regional land use what the people call it – Rural (Better yet, what about “Country?”) – and , let’s also update and improve on “Rural” use standards.

Uses in the Rural district cannot simply and only be ½-acre minimum lot size home-site development projects (as they are limited to, today.)

Rural communities are “communities.”

There are community centers, houses, stores, schools and parks – where there are places where people interact, live, work, learn and play.  They are not simply home-sites.

The Rural Land Use Designation does not presently permit these small town and diverse uses … it should.

Many Rural communities, whether primarily Ag-based or simply “country,” don’t want urban design standards – they want characteristics that reflect their relaxed lifestyle.

We need to amend the State planning maps to accurately reflect these uses, broaden the uses permitted in the Rural district and finally define what has been and is actually happening.

Again, let’s not let Honolulu bias impose upon or dictate to others.

Honolulu urban design standards are not the be all and end all across the state.

I remember when Waimea on the Big Island got its first traffic signal in the middle of town.  For a few years, cowboys and others on horseback going through town would lean down and press the “walk” button to cross the street.

They are gone now, because the grass shoulders have been taken over by curbs, gutters and sidewalks – not very friendly to rural lifestyles.

For some reason, the initial land use mapping and permitted uses of the early 1960s left out Rural – even though that’s what a lot of people called their lifestyle.

It’s time to correctly map and expand our land uses (even rethink the need to have the State tell the neighbor island communities how they should look) … that means a generous amount of land should be in the “Rural” district with uses that fit the rural/country lifestyle – for now and into the future.

The image shows a friendly reminder of how life once was in Waimea on the Big Island.

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