Images of Old Hawaiʻi

by Peter T Young 7 Comments

Club Jetty

“No Tank Tops, No Shorts, No Bare Feet.”

“Club Jetty resembles the scene from an old Bogie flick. There are places like it in Singapore and Hong Kong and Macao. Fans spin overhead. Guests dine of Formica-topped tables.”

“And once a week when the liner Oceanic Independence tied up outside, Mama’s cafebar is swamped.” (Sarasota Herald-Tribune, November 1, 1981)

Club Jetty opened in 1946; it evolved from ‘Hale Aina’ (Kauai’s first steak house,) a restaurant located a Nāwiliwili Transportation Company building at the bottom of the hill that leads up to Kaua‘i High School.

The restaurant moved to a Nāwiliwili Yacht Club building in about 1950 in part to help cater meals for “Pagan Love Song,” Kaua‘i’s first color feature Hollywood film.

Later Tom King of the Territorial Harbors Division moved it to a larger building along the jetty at Nāwiliwili Harbor … it became Club Jetty. (TGI)

“Mama” Emma Ouye started it; she was born in Hanalei on October 13, 1907, to Chee Chong Hing and Pepe Malia.

Ouye graduated from Kaua‘i High School and was helped in gaining an education through the support of GN Wilcox, a friend of her father. She married Manji James Ouye in 1927. (TGI)

Club Jetty became a leading Kaua‘i night spot, with entertainers coming from Las Vegas, Honolulu and other locales to perform, in addition to Hawaiian, jazz and rock musicians from Kaua‘i during several eras from the 1950s through the 1980s when Nāwiliwili served as the center of nightlife in Līhuʻe and the rest of Kaua‘i.

One notable, Kui Lee, who had been performing on the mainland for about 10-years, returned to Hawaiʻi and came to Club Jetty, in 1961. Then, he became a part-time performer and doorman at Honey’s nightclub in Kaneohe (owned by Emily “Honey” Ho, mother of Don) – launching pad of Don Ho.

Besides a local favorite, Club Jetty also attracted notable celebrities.

One time, in the early 1960s, filming was going on for John Ford’s Donovan’s Reef, with John Wayne, Lee Marvin and others.

During filming of Donovan’s Reef on Kauai the cast stayed at the Kauai Inn on Nāwiliwili Bay. John Ford also had his yacht anchored in Nāwiliwili Harbor. John Wayne and Lee Marvin were reported to be bunking on the yacht.

“John Wayne would swim in, and try to hide the fact that he was all dripping wet. Grandma said she was trying to stop him from doing that.”

“She had him come by when she fed the shark (who frequented the waters off the club.) She would chant at night, to attract shark. John Wayne saw the shark, he was petrified and never swam into the club again.” (Pono Ouye; TGI)

Club Jetty “became a must for visiting celebrities from Washington, DC, to Hollywood and beyond. They were all charmed by Mama and her casual Aloha, returning again for the wonderful food and the good times.” (KHS;TGI)

“If you help people with their life, you will receive help with yours.” (Ouye; TGI)

Unfortunately, like other iconic remnants of the past (as in Coco Palms,) Club Jetty was destroyed in 1992 by Hurricane Iniki.

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The Donna

“Honolulu is to have a new family hotel – ‘The Donna’ – at Beretania and Piikoi streets. The four cottages owned by Col CJ McCarthy are to be made into a hotel, having about thirty rooms, and the opening will take place next month. Mrs CJ McCarthy will manage the enterprise.”

“During recent months there have been many visitors unable to get the sort of accommodations they wanted. Several of the local hostelries have had the experience recently of turning away applicants for room and board, and visitors have had difficulty in finding places at all suited to them.”

“The McCarthy cottages are located in a fine residence district and have attractive grounds.” (Hawaiian Star, Feb 17, 1910)  “It was run by the McCarthy family and Mr. [Charles J] McCarthy at one time was governor of Hawai’i. [1918-1921] Mr. and Mrs. McCarthy ran this hotel.” (Nell Kahululani Conant Porter, Watumull Oral History)

Charles James McCarthy “was born in Boston, August 4, 1861, and came to San Francisco with [his] parents in 1866. [He] was educated in the grammar schools of that city also attended the Pacific Business College. [He came] to Hawaii in March, 1881, as an employee of a wholesale fruit house, which shipped tropical fruits to San Francisco .”

In 1889 he married Margaret Teresa Morgan. “Mrs. McCarthy was born in Honolulu on October 30, 1865, the daughter of Robert Dalton Morgan and Catherine Ward Morgan. Both her parents were born in Dublin, Ireland, and had lived in New York City before coming to Hawaii. Her father came to the islands three years before his wife and family followed”.

“A native of Honolulu, Mrs. McCarthy was intensely interested in the islands and beloved by the Hawaiian people of whom she was a true and understanding friend. She spoke Hawaiian fluently and did much in the interests of these people.”

“As a member and for several years an officer of the Outdoor Circle se took a leading part in the organization’s work to preserve the natural charm of the islands. She was also a member of the Sons and Daughters of Warriors, the Daughters of Hawaii and the Guild of Francis Hospital.”  (Hnl Adv, March 19, 1934)

After several elected public service positions, CJ McCarthy “was appointed Governor of Hawaii on April 18, 1918, for a term of four years. On March 4th, 1921 , [he] tendered [his] resignation to President Harding to take effect June 1st, [1921, because he had] been appointed by the Honolulu Chamber of Commerce to represent them in Washington, DC.”  (Charles J McCarthy Autobiographical Sketch, American Irish Historical Society)

“Mrs. McCarthy’s life was a busy one.  In addition to the task of rearing her family of five daughters and seconding her husband’s public activities, she successfully established and maintained the Donna Hotel on Beretania street and also managed other apartment holdings at Waikiki.” (Hnl Adv, March 19, 1934)

[T]here was a large house, two or three stories high, and it was the home of Governor [Charles J] McCarthy. He was governor here [June 22, 1918 to 1921.] And his wife had the hotel and it was her private project.”

“He had nothing to do with it and she wanted it understood that it was hers and she ran it and they had the best food in the city that you could buy, you know, at a restaurant and she did catering for big parties if the people wanted to pay for really nice food, nice catering. And the rooms weren’t so good.”

“She owned, I think, three buildings – could have been only two – there on Beretania and they owned the land right straight through to the street behind it, Kinau.”

“Their big house was where Schuman Carriage Company is and then these smaller houses, where they had roomers, were Waikiki side. And then they had the dining room–main dining room. That was the style of practically all the hotels here then.” (Margaret Way, Watumull Oral History)

It was originally advertised as “Home-Like in its surroundings and comforts and with all the conveniences and ease of the most approved hotel” “The Donna The new Apartment Hotel” at “1262-70-76-86 Beretania Avenue” ((PCA, Jun 1, 1910)

“The Donna Hotel, 1286 S. Beretania, is delightfully situated within ten minutes’ ride from the center of Honolulu. Here, amidst the surroundings of a subtropical park, one may enjoy all the comforts of home.”

“The rooms in the main buildings or in one of the attractive screened cottages are cheery, well-furnished, and have hot and cold running water. The delicious home cooked meals are served at little cozy tables which are grouped about an artistically decorated open lanai. Permanent rates are $65 a month or $3.00 a day and up.” (Mid-Pacific Magazine, Feb 1928)

“Although located amidst quiet and restful surroundings, The Donna is only a few minutes’ walk from the business portion of the city. Electric cars, which transfer to all parts of the city and the beach, have a station in front of the house.  The Donna has many unique and pleasing features that will irresistably appeal to visitors to Honolulu.” (The Courtland Guide, Jan 1917)

“C. & M. McCarthy, Ltd., was a corporation organized under the laws of the Territory of Hawaii. In 1944 it owned (and presumably operated) in Honolulu the Donna Hotel and the Waikiki Apartments.” The company was dissolved on February 15, 1945.  (US Court of Appeals, Ninth Circuit, Oct 10, 1957, 248 F.2d 765)

The hotel operation and apartment rentals “was her business. She may have had it before he was governor and she kept it quite a long time afterward too.” (Margaret Way, Watumull Oral History) The Donna Hotel was situated on property now occupied by Times Super Market. (Yardley, Hnl Adv, Apr 10, 1985)

“The home and the hotel properties ran back to Kinau Street, but a high wooden fence separated the rear part of the hotel grounds. Behind the fence were the staff quarters, known as Japanese Camp.”

“It was a community unto itself with its own stores and baths. The waiters, maids, dish washers, cook, yard men and laundresses all lived there and to and from work through a door in the fence.”

“The hotel building on the on the Kaimuki end consisted of rooms upstairs and the office, parlor, public rooms and a dining room on the lanai of the first floor. An inviting lanai with rockers ran the length pf the front of the building.”

“The rooms were simple, clean and always cool. Floors were covered with sturdy lauhala mats, the dining tables covered with white linen cloths (with linen napkins tucked in the guest’s own napkin ring), and the quest rooms had comfortable iron and brass bedsteads covered with heavy white counterpanes.”

“Mrs McCarthy was a fabulous Island cook and her recipes and menus were referred to as the Kitchen Bible. … Unfortunately, the era of boarding houses in lovely residential districts is a thing of the past, but how nice it would be to have them revived.” (Yardley, Hnl Adv, Apr 10, 1985)

An interesting aside … “Governor McCarthy was the fifth territorial governor but the first to live at Washington Place. In 1918, he leased Washington Place privately. In 1921, the Territorial government purchased Washington Place from the Liliʻuokalani Estate.” (Washington Place)

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Lusitana Society

On September 30, 1878, a pioneer band of 180 Portuguese landed in Honolulu.  The Portuguese entered Hawaiian society in large numbers between 1878 and 1913, predominantly, although not exclusively, to join the sugar plantation workforce. (Bastos)

“About 65 per cent of the Portuguese, who formed the bulk of the assisted Caucasian immigrants, were women and children, as against 19 per cent of the Japanese.”

“Therefore at a time when it cost but $87.75 to bring a Japanese laborer to the islands, it cost $266.15 to bring a Portuguese, including the passage of the nonproducing members of his family.” (Report of the Commissioner of Labor, 1902)

“In the long run the discrepancy in cost was not so great, because the Portuguese settled in the country and raised up children there, so that they and their families were a permanent increment to the working population”.

“The Portuguese are largely employed in the semi-skilled occupations of the plantation … These people are an exceedingly hopeful element of the population. They are both industrious and frugal, and their vices are not of a sort to injure their efficiency as workers.”  (Report of the Commissioner of Labor, 1902)

Few returned to the Portuguese islands, and to the disappointment of the planters, very few renewed their contracts. (Portuguese Historical Museum)

On O‘ahu, they followed the classic pattern: when their contracts expired, they moved to town, concentrating in the Punchbowl and Pauoa districts. (Jardine)

“Around the base of Punchbowl is to be found a colony of Portuguese, who naturally draw together in this strange land, and there they distinguish themselves by the neatness of their dwellings, the growth of pretty (if common) flowers, and a general air of thrift is lacking on the part of many of their neighbors.” (PCA, Sep 23, 1884)

Here, street names commemorate famous Portuguese people and the areas from which they came: Lusitana, Funchal, Lisbon and Azores; Alencastre, Madeira, Morreira and Magellan; Correa, Enos and Osorio. (Jardin)

Lusitana Street was named for the Lusitana Society (sometimes referred to as Lusitania Society), although two with that name existed: the Sociedade Lusitana Beneficente de Hawaii, and the União Lusitana Hawaiiana, founded in 1882 and 1892, respectively. (Bastos)  (Lusitania is the ancient name of West Hispania, and now a poetic name for Portugal. (Hawaiian Dictionary))

“Like most other immigrant groups with little or no access to established sources of capital, the Portuguese fostered accumulation of savings among their number.”

“But the Portuguese Benevolent Society was formed in order to be able to help individuals hit by adversity – invalids, widows, and orphans, for example.” (Correa & Knowlton)

“The remarkable financial results achieved by our Portuguese immigrants grow more apparent still in their Benevolent Societies, of which there are four in Honolulu – the Lusitana (1,900 members), the San Antonio (2,100 m), the Patria (125 m) and the San Martino (200 m), to which must be added the Camoes Court of Foresters, with two societies in Hilo.” (Thrum)

“Of all these, the ‘Lusitana’ is the only one which possesses a complete financial statement from its incipiency; it was created in 1882, especially to help the newly-arrived plantation laborers, and has been, for the greater part of its existence, sustained nearly exclusively by such laborers from savings out of their meager wages”.

“Moreover, the ‘Lusitana’ owns its own premises, has $53,000 safely invested, thereby helping members in mortgages, and it keeps an emergency fund of about $9,000.” (Thrum)

“This shows on the part of the members of this Association a very laudable spirit of providing for the future, as well as a pride to prevent themselves from becoming helpless objects of charity during sickness or accidents, which might well be imitated by other nationalities in this Territory.”  (Thrum)

“It is no small accomplishment for a few thousand imported plantation laborers, mostly driven to Hawaii by distress in their own country and arriving in a nearly indigent condition …”

“… to have insured themselves and their families against the worst economic consequences of illness and death, and to have accumulated so large an amount of collective funds during the two or three decades that they have been settled in the Territory.” (Report of the Commissioner of Labor in Hawaii, Sep, 1906)

The Lusitana Society building was at the intersection of Alapai and Lunalilo. It was later used as a dance hall and academy, and as the home of the Independent Order of Odd Fellows. The site was later run over by the H1 freeway.

The Portuguese population all over Hawai‘i declined significantly in the early 1900s. Partially due to the Gold Rush in California and the 1906 San Francisco fire, many moved to California to help rebuild or to find their fortune. (NPS)

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Malukukui

“The Kukui Tree would pay big in the hands of anyone who could got a liquor license, or who would run a blind pig. … EP Irwin has decided to close the Kukui Tree, at Wahiawa. …”

“The place has not been paying. Mr. Irwin will devote all his attention now to his Waikiki place, the well known Hau Tree.” (Hawaiian Star, July 17, 1911)

Let’s look back …

Mr and Mrs Henry C Brown converted their Wahiawa home into the “Malukukui, their home-hotel among the pineapples at Wahiawa.” (Hawaiian Gazette, September 29, 1909)

“(I)ll health sent them to seek a quiet country life. They settled in Wahiawa, the largest pineapple country in the world, where they bought several acres of ground and built their home, evolving from it a small country inn in which they are now able to accommodate some fifty guests.”

“The house was built by Japanese carpenters and has some Japanese features; for example, the bedrooms on the sheltered side of the house have no glass in the windows, but only sliding screens and shutters which fold up on the outside to be used in the case of heavy rain.”

“The house is built of matched boards left rough on the outside but planed within, and over each joint, both inside and out, three-inch battens are laid. The roof is of galvanized iron, roofing much used in this district, and the whole is stained a dark moss green with white trimmings about the windows and doors.”

“Every room has a fine view either over the restful pineapple fields or down the deep ravine on the edge of which the house is built. In the distance can be seen magnificent mountain ranges and glimpses of the Pacific ten miles distant.”

“The house is of significance to us, not alone because of its attractiveness or the fact that many of the ideas for which we stand have been put into practice within it; but as an example of what can be done in a country where there are few resources, by people who really desire to build a home after their own hearts.” (The Craftsman, 1909)

Wahiawa Hotel operated under the American plan, $2.50 upward per day; $15 upward per week; $45 upward per month. (Aloha Guide, 1915)

“Wahiawa is 25 miles from town by rail. It is the original pineapple district founded by a colony of American agriculturists in 1899. It is a small village surrounded by pineapple fields, and being of an elevation of 1000 feet offers to pleasure-seekers and those seeking the cool atmosphere, recreation and rest.” (Aloha Guide, 1915)

It “also (has) several stores, markets, shops, laundry, etc., and two pineapple canneries. Now that the mails come twice a day by rail instead of twice a week by stage from Pearl City, as was the case formerly, a number of Honolulu people have built country houses.” (Paradise of the Pacific, Oct/Nov 1905)

“The Hawaiian Islands Pineapple cannery is located here and may be inspected whenever it is running, the height of the canning season being from July to September.”

“Oahu Railway & Land Co … which obtained its franchise in 1888 operates a narrow gauge railway from Honolulu as far as Kahuku, a distance of 71 miles with a branch line to Wahiawa (13 miles), the pineapple district and to Leilehua, the army post.” (Aloha Guide, 1915)

“A large dam has been constructed here for the purpose of storing up water for the Waialua Sugar Plantation.” (Aloha Guide, 1915) “Motor-boating on fresh water is one of the attractions of Wahiawa.”

“The Wahiawa Water Company, desiring to conserve the ten billion gallons of water which annually flowed through the Kaukonahua streams, for use on Waialua sugar-cane lands, spent over a quarter of a million dollars building a dam and system of ditches and tunnels.”

“Forty-seven million gallons was Waialua’s daily allowance recently during the planting season—a good help to dividends. The dam backs water three and one-half miles up one branch and four and one-half of the Wahiawa Colony, whence it passes through the holdings of all the colonists, giving them means of irrigating at moderate rates. Recently a pipe system has been installed, removing all fears of dry weather.” (Paradise of the Pacific, Oct/Nov 1905)

“The lease giving EP Irwin the control of the Wahiawa country resort formerly the Malukukui Hotel was signed yesterday by the trustees of the Atherton estate and the new proprietor took possession at once.”

“Numerous expensive additions and repairs about the place have been already planned and will be immediately executed increasing the capacity of the hotel and making it cosier and nearer the standards of the comfort in city hostelries.”

“An automobile will meet the trains at Wahiawa from the hotel and in its off moments act as a link between the Hau tree Irwins Waikiki Hotel and his new Wahiawa enterprise.” (Hawaiian Gazette, March 7, 1911)

“The Kukui Tree, formerly known as Malukukui, at Wahiawa, is now open and ready to receive guests. Extensive Improvement are under way and will soon be completed. No place in Hawaii is as suitable to spend a week end at as the Kukui Tree.”

“Run up today or tomorrow and stay over Sunday and see if this is not true. If you try it once, The Kukui Tree will become a habit with you. The table is excellent, as are the accommodations. Inquiries may be made of EP Irwin, at the Hau Tree, phone 1389.” (Hawaiian Star, March 24, 1911)

“The necessity for a place such as Mr Irwin has reopened exists and he deserves all the patronage his enterprise should bring him. As managers of the Hau Tree at Waikiki, Mr and Mrs Irwin have demonstrated the fact that they know how. (Hawaiian Gazette, March 24, 1911)

However, as noted in the initial quote, “The place has not been paying (and) EP Irwin has decided to close the Kukui Tree, at Wahiawa.” There is limited mention of the Malukukui or the Kukui Tree after that.

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Kilauea Masonic Lodge

Hawai‘i was first visited by Freemasons as early as the early-1790s, with the visit of George Vancouver (however, some suggest Captain Cook was a Freemason, but the records don’t substantiate that.) Over time, other Freemasons (mariners, merchants and professionals) visited the Islands.

However, it was a French mariner who introduced this British cultural export into Hawai‘i at a time when the Union Jack flew over the kingdom’s capital. On April 8, 1843, during the reign of King Kamehameha III (Kauikeaouli,) Freemasonry was formally established in Hawai‘i by Joseph Marie Le Tellier, Captain of the French whaling barque “Ajax” when he warranted Lodge Le Progres de l’Oceanie No. 124, of the Ancient and Accepted Scottish Rite of the Supreme Council of France.

This was the first Masonic Lodge to be instituted in the Islands; with it, Freemasonry became firmly established in the Sandwich Islands. In Honolulu, the original lodge members were European and American mariners, shopkeepers and farmers.

Membership in Masonic lodges has always served to facilitate business contacts, as well as social ones. By the late-1840s there were about thirty-five merchants and storekeepers in Honolulu, of whom about one third were Masons. Similar ratios existed for the other 150 skilled “mechanics” and professionals in town.

Later, in 1879, King Kalākaua (one of the most active members of the Craft in the Island Kingdom,) conducted a grand Masonic ceremony at the site of the new ‘Iolani Palace, using Masonic silver working tools specially crafted for the occasion.

Then, on the evening of Thursday, December 3, 1896, an informal meeting was held at the home of William Whitmore Goodale, at Papaikou, on the Island of Hawaiʻi. The needs were discussed and it was decided to take the necessary steps for a Masonic Lodge on the Island of Hawaiʻi.

On February 4, 1897, the Grand Master of Masons in California, Thomas Flint, Jr., issued a dispensation to open and hold a Masonic Lodge to be called, “Kilauea Lodge.” The Lodge, with a membership of 16, was granted its charter on October 15, 1897, and was constituted as Kilauea Lodge No. 330, F&AM (Free & Accepted Masons.) (Chausee)

“Andrew Brown, District Inspector, Jos. Little, Arch. Gilfillan and half a dozen other prominent Masons will leave by the next Kinau for Hilo to some work for the order at that place. Mr. Brown will deliver to Masonic Lodge at Hilo, its charter and will direct the installation of officers. The lodge there has been working under dispensation for a year, but will now be firmly attached the Grand Lodge of California.” (Hawaiian Gazette, February 11, 1898)

Kilauea Lodge became “a full fledged lodge, peaceful, prosperous, progressive, and is ably and faithfully fulfilling its mission of brotherly love, relief and truth. They have recently purchased a large lot on Waianuenue street and hope at an early date to see their way clear to follow in the footsteps of Hawaiian Lodge and build for themselves a suitable and comfortable home.” (Freemasons)

“The Masonic Hall Association at its meeting Saturday last decided definitely to built a fine brick and stone building upon their lot recently purchased of the Territory at the corner of Waianuenue and Bridge streets.”

“The building will be two stories in height with basement … The upper story will be used for lodge purposes, while the lower will be constructed for the use of business houses, etc”. (Evening Bulletin, January 18, 1906)

At about this time (1908,) Teddy Roosevelt who was a Freemason was President of the United States; the US Congress authorized the construction of Naval Station at Pearl Harbor; and the Navy’s sixteen new battleships made up the “Great White Fleet” and sailed.

In the local community, the simultaneous event of the completion of the rail link to Honokaʻa, connecting the sugar plantations, their products, and their large working population to Hilo and its port, and the completion of the new breakwater allowing all-weather use of Hilo harbor, provided an expansive business environment for entrepreneurs In the community and across the Island Territory.

Then, the Hilo Masons dedicated their new building. “We have met here today for a specific purpose, namely to solemnly dedicate our masonic hall. Ten or more years ago the Hilo Masonic Hall Association was formed and later on a site purchased, which was farther up Waianuenue street than we are today.”

“Still later negotiations were entered into with the then Governor of the Territory, George B Carter, with a view to making an exchange of sites, the government requiring our uptown lot for school purposes, and giving us in exchange the site that this building now stands on”. (Hawaiian Gazette, March 1, 1910)

“It was finally decided to accept the plans of HE Starbuck, of Oakland. … The cornerstone was laid February 18, 1909. We started out to build a $40,000 building, and have ended up by having one costing double the amount, as nothing but the best of everything would satisfy the boys.”

The structure, which occupies the entire site, consists of three floors and a full basement. The street-level commercial spaces have a reinforced concrete floor, sidewalk freight elevators into the basement and an ingenious natural ventilation system which carried throughout the building.

Though altered in most areas the interiors remaining indicate a high level of decoration, with arched column bays, decorative cast concrete and plaster ceilings and high display windows with operable transoms above. (NPS)

The extensive unbroken tenancy by the Masonic Order (1909-1985) resulted in the second and third floors remaining virtually unchanged (a fire stair was added in 1986.) From the Waianuenue Avenue level lobby an elaborate granite stair with its ornate grained Oak balustrade ascends to the second floor foyer, on to the third level offices, and on again to the former Roof Garden, lauded for its panoramic view of the City of Hilo. (NPS)

The Temple room was two-stories in height with coved ceiling, wainscot, extensive paneling and moldings surrounding the large arch-topped windows, and an Organ Gallery overlooking the room through arched openings; the original suspended lighting fixtures with faceted globes were encased and formed brass frames.

Though ownership of the building has changed hands several times since its construction, the Masonic Order retained its occupancy of the second and third floor spaces until about 1985 when the Issuance of a liquor license to a ground floor tenant forced them to vacate under the rules of the Order which does not allow joint occupancy with liquor establishments.

The Hilo Masonic Temple is among the Hilo’s most substantial and best preserved historic structures. Constructed in 1908-10 in the Renaissance Revival style of reinforced concrete and steel, the building was clearly intended to be a lasting monument to the Masonic Order whose dramatic Lodge Hall and Temple facilities were located on the second and third floors.

The Masonic Temple construction came to completion about the same time as the new Hilo Hotel building was completed, the Hackfeld building nearing completion and with the Volcano Block and S Hata buildings in the planning stages.

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