Images of Old Hawaiʻi

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Wahaʻula Heiau

No keia heiau oia ke kapu enaena.
(Concerning this heiau is the burning tabu.)

‘Enaena’ means ‘burning with a red hot rage.’ The heiau was so thoroughly ‘tabu,’ or ‘kapu,’ that the smoke of its fires falling upon any of the people or even upon any one of the chiefs was sufficient cause for punishment by death, with the body as a sacrifice to the gods of the temple.  (Westervelt)

Oral traditions trace the origin of Hawaiian luakini temple construction to the high priest Pā’ao, who arrived in the islands in about the thirteenth century. He introduced several changes to Hawaiian religious practices that affected temple construction, priestly ritual, and worship practices.

Prior to his coming, the prayers, sacrifices, and other ceremonial activities that the high chief and his officiating priest performed could be observed by the congregation, who periodically responded as part of the ceremony.

After Pā’ao’s arrival, temple courtyards, which were sometimes built on hillsides to add to their massiveness, were enclosed with high stone walls, preventing the masses from participating as freely in the worship ceremonies.

In addition, new gods; stronger kapu; an independent, hereditary priesthood; wooden temple images; and human sacrifices became established parts of the religious structure. Pā’ao erected the first luakini (Wahaula) at Puna, Hawaiʻi, followed by Moʻokini Heiau at Kohala. These structures signaled a new era in Hawaiian religious practices.  (NPS)

On the southeast coast of Hawaiʻi near Kalapana is one of the largest, oldest and best preserved heiau. Its walls are several feet thick and in places ten to twelve feet high. It is divided into rooms or pens, in one of which still lies the huge sacrificial stone upon which victims – sometimes human – were slain before the bodies were placed as offerings.  (Westervelt, 1915)

“At our visit to the scene we were shown the small cove, deep down the jagged bluffs of Puna’s coast line, at the southern end of Wahaʻula premises, where the bones of the slain were washed, and to this day is known as Holoinaiwi.”  (Thrum, 1904)

This heiau is now called Wahaʻula (red-mouth). In ancient times it was known as Ahaʻula (the red assembly), possibly denoting that at times the priests and their attendants wore red mantles in their processions or during some part of their sacred ceremonies.  (Westervelt)

“The Heiau of Wahaʻula is built on an ʻaʻa flow, and the ascent to it is by terraces. Upon the first terrace the female members of the royal family brought their offerings which were taken by the priests. Beyond this first terrace no female was allowed to pass.”

“Two more terraces brings one to the enclosure or temple, in the shape of a quadrangle 132 feet long, by 72 feet wide. A stone wall encloses the temple, 6 feet high and 4 feet wide. The main entrance faces the East, flanked on either side by two smaller entrances. Immediately in front of this entrance stand the remains of the old temple, which was destroyed by the ʻaʻa flow on which the present one stands.”

“Across the southern end extends a stone platform some 3 feet high built in the shape of two semi-circles connected by a straight platform. Between these semi-circles was placed the presiding deity, and on either hand were placed the offerings of fruits, etc., while immediately in front, on a small raised platform were placed the human sacrifices, which were always slain in the main entrance to the heiau.”

“Immediately in front of this altar for human sacrifices, and extending across the enclosure, stood the priests’ house. sacred to them alone. In the rear of this was the royal house, where the members of the royal family assembled during the days devoted to the sacrifices. The rest of the enclosure was paved.”  (Thrum)

“Water-worn pebbles were carried from the beach and strewn over the floor, making a smooth place for the naked feet of the temple dwellers to pass without injury from the sharp-edged lava. Rude grass huts built on terraces were the abodes of the priests and high chiefs who visited the places of sacrifice.”

“Elevated, flat-topped piles of stones were built at one end of the temple for the chief idols and the sacrifices placed before them. Simplicity of detail marked every step of temple erection.”  (Westervelt)

“(I)in the original enclosure of the heiau of Wahaʻula was a sacred grove, said to contain one or more specimens of every tree growing on the Hawaiian group, a number of which, or their descendants, had survived when he visited the place in 1869. … It was built in the quadrangular or parallelogram form which characterized all the heiaus built under and after the religious regime introduced by Pāʻao.”  (Fornander)

Beyond the heiau, on the makai side of the trail, is pointed out the footprint of Niheu, a demi-god, as well as the mark of an arrow which he shot at another demi-god who came to fight him. Further west, makai of the place where the trail turns mauka, is Kamoamoa, where the ranch driving pens are.

Here are two wells with fair water, and also a fine natural arch by the sea. Here are also a few interesting rock carvings. The most easily found of these is about a hundred yards from the paddock extension towards Kalapana, and may be located by following the line of this extension’s makai wall in an easterly direction.

The trail is straight, with a bad grade, but paved, until it has reached well up the bluff, where it passes the Pea house, the last habitation before the Crater Hotel is reached. From Pea’s it is a good eight miles to the Makaopuhi crater. The trail is narrow, passes through splendid forest, and is, though seldom used, quite easily followed.  (Kinney, 1913)

“Tradition credits a rebuilding of the temple to Imaikalani, a famous chief of Puna, and Kaʻū, in the time of Keawenui-a-umi, in the sixteenth century. It was repaired again in the time of Kalaniʻōpuʻu, about 1770, and in the time of Kamehameha I, it had its final renovation.”  (Thrum)

“This was the last heiau destroyed when the ancient tabus and ceremonial rites were overthrown by the chiefs just before the coming of Christian missionaries. At that time the grass houses of the priests were burned and in these raging flames were thrown the wooden idols back of the altars and the bamboo huts of the soothsayers and the rude images on the walls, with everything combustible which belonged to the ancient order of worship. Only the walls and rough stone floors were left in the temple.  (Westervelt)

Kīlauea’s ongoing Puʻu ʻŌʻō eruption started on January 3, 1983 when ground fissures opened up and “curtains of fire” (long thin fountains of molten lava) issued from a 3½-miles long discontinuous fissure system in the remote rainforest of the middle east rift zone of the volcano.

Since then, about 500-acres have been added to the Big Island (that volume of lava could have filled 1.5-million swimming pools. The coastal highway has been closed since 1987, as lava flows covered 8 miles to as great a depth as 80 feet. 214-homes were destroyed.

“The apprehensions uniformly entertained by the natives, of the fearful consequences of Pele’s anger, prevented their paying very frequent visits to the vicinity of her abode; and when, on their inland journeys, they had occasion to approach Kirauea, they were scrupulously attentive to every injunction of her priests, and regarded with a degree of superstitious veneration and awe the appalling spectacle which the crater and its appendages presented.”

“The violations of her sacred abode, and the insults to her power, of which we had been guilty, appeared to them, and to the natives in general, acts of temerity and sacrilege; and, notwithstanding the fact of our being foreigners, we were subsequently threatened with the vengeance of the volcanic deity, under the following circumstances.”  (Ellis, 1831)

The Wahaʻula Heiau was threatened three times in 1989 and once in 1990, but the lava flowed only up to the walls before diverting around them, but destroyed the visitor center and related facilities (built by the National Park Service in 1964, was destroyed by lava in June 1989.)  However, a subsequent 1997 flow breached the walls and covered the heiau. (star-bulletin)

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Mr Takashiba

When we were kids, during the summers, we used to load the jeep and trailer on a Young Brothers’ barge and head to different neighbor islands to camp. After a while, we ended up repeatedly coming to Kona.

On one of those Kona trips, sixty years ago, we headed up mauka and our father got us all out and said we were going to build a house here.  It turns out we ended up building on a different lot, up Donkey Mill Road, the first left after the dip.  We planted macadamia nuts on a 20-acre KSBE lease.  Well, ‘we’ didn’t do the planting, it was all arranged through Mr Takashiba.

Yoshitaka Takashiba was “the son of immigrants from Fukui-ken, Japan, was born on May 23, 1913, in Captain Cook, Kona, Hawaii.”

His father, Koshu Takashiba, a rice farmer in Fukui-Ken, left Japan in about 1909, in search of work, and had intended to go to Canada; rather, they stopped and stayed in Kona.

Koshu Takashiba was Issei (first generation) – born in Japan and emigrated to the Islands from 1885 to 1924 (when Congress stopped all legal migration).   The term Issei came into common use and represented the idea of a new beginning and belonging.

The children of the Issei, like Yoshitaka Takashiba, were Nisei, the second generation in Hawaiʻi and the first generation of Japanese descent to be born and receive their entire education in America, learning Western values and holding US citizenship.

Yoshitaka was the eldest of five children.  In Kona, the family was engaged in coffee farming.  “As a youth, Yoshitaka helped on the family coffee farm and attended Konawaena School.  In 1927, at the age of 14, he quit school to assume more responsibilities on the farm.”

“In 1933, he married Chiyoko, and three years later, began growing and marketing tomatoes to supplement their [coffee] income.  In 1945, he started macadamia nut seedlings which he eventually planted in the fields three years later.”

Mr Takashiba was a man with only an eighth grade education but was a patient pioneer in the macadamia nut industry in Kona and a leader of several agricultural cooperatives.  I learned a lot from him – I suspect to his dismay, though, one of the things I learned was that when I grew up, I was not going to be a farmer.

But Mr Takashiba was a great farmer, friend, and contributor to the future of Kona that we live in now.  He did an oral history interview for the ‘Social History of Kona’ project – I’ll let him tell some more of his story …

“At the time that I was growing up it’s not like now, you can see all the opportunities and you can see what [is available]. Even at the local you can see the mechanics and carpenters, electrician, all that kind.”

“I don’t know how the teenagers now feel but we were not exposed in that kind of opportunities so we didn’t have any idea what our future will be and we weren’t thinking about our future, it’s just day by day.”

“So we weren’t thinking what I will be in the future.  In general, I kind of like growing things so I didn’t think too much about feeling that I want to get out of farming or that sort. … [and] my parents insisted that I should take care of the farm.”

“[T]he coffee was the main production so most of the local farmers were Japanese and like I’m nisei, I was brought up in such that my family came from Fukui-ken and they were farming and they were real conservative.”

“Every inch of the farm was put in production so I was trained in such that every inch of the soil is valuable and most of the farmers, the nisei farmers were taught in such that they were reluctant in cutting any coffee trees.”

“So even how narrow [the farm road] is, even the two coffee trees touched the jeep or whatever the vehicle is, they are forced to go through that line without cutting the coffee trees.”

“[M]ainly the object was to keep the families’ children in the farm. Not as of employing the children. So the families’ children did a lot of work. In fact they did better than the adults did.”

“[I]f you have a teenager then they will start working at the time that their parents start working and they would end up at the time that the parents end up. So in other words, if you work 12 hours then the teenager will work 12 hours, whereas a hired hand will only work eight hours.”

“[W]e were brought up in that locality that most of the farmers, in fact, all of the farmers were Japanese. After we left school our conversation was in Japanese mostly so actually when I went to school the English was not as fluent as of what we spoke Japanese.”

In 1945, Mr Takashiba started getting into macadamia nuts … by 1947 he stopped coffee farming – “Too much labor in picking.”

“[M]y friend coached me that in the future, macadamia nuts might be one of the important product in Kona. So with that two things, sort of encourage me to plant the macadamia nuts.”

“At that time the university, the university experiment station was doing some research on macadamia nuts and they were collecting various variety that were grown in Kona and elsewhere in the state of Hawaii.”

“I was told that the macadamia nuts would not germinate too fast so I had a patch of tomatoes growing and under the tomatoes I started the seedling of macadamia nuts. In other words, I planted the tomatoes and macadamia nut seed at the same time.”

“While the tomatoes were growing, the macadamia nuts were ready to germinate and then it germinated about four months after I planted the seed. So by the time the tomatoes were out of production the macadamia nut plant was just ready to sprout or some were couple inches grown up.”

“Some of [his friends] said, ‘Oh, you damn fool.’ … After I planted my macadamia nut and the university felt that macadamia nuts would be one of the industries for Kona they [university] were propagating a lot of grafted macadamia nuts.”

“And at the start they were selling for $1.50 per plant which was about three to four years old. Some of them bought and planted at that time but at that time that the university was selling the seedlings, I had already planted in my orchard so I didn’t go and buy them.”

“But at the time that they had this macadamia nut grafted and ready to be planted in the orchard, some of them were sold but some were start getting overgrown so they used to give the farmers free. And that’s when quite a number of the farmers planted the macadamia nut because they were getting the plant free.”

“But some of them planted macadamia nut free and as the trees started producing, they weren’t too strong market so they cut all the trees. So when I visit those farmers, they said, ‘Gee, Takashiba, if I had that macadamia nuts I think I would be in the same category with you but damn fool me, I cut the tree. ‘  I think there were a couple of farmers that had cut the trees.”

He got involved with the Kona Macadamia Nut Club that evolved into the Kona Macadamia Nut Cooperative, an organization he later led. (The duty of the cooperative “was to get the farmer’s macadamia nut together and sell to the buyers as a cooperative”.)

“From the very young stage I was real interested in cooperative, I know once I went to a gathering where at that time Japan was real active in cooperatives. … so, I was from the very kid days, I was interested in getting the farmers together and marketing together.”

“For that reason I was real active in this cooperative so I did a lot of sacrificing job. I had a truck, I went out to collect the nuts with my own expense and then market it together to whoever bought the nut from us. That’s how I was involved in that supervisor/manager at the same time.”

“The macadamia nut, we don’t have that world market price [Kona coffee prices were based on Brazilian and Columbian coffee prices] so the [macadamia nut] price was sort of controlled by the buyer. Hawaiian Host is one of the buyer and we have Menehune and Honokaa and Keaau. But the  biggest buyer is Hawaiian Host, Honokaa and Keaau.”

As for his vision of the future … “the Japanese style is that, what do you call, you leave everything for the children. They try work hard and they leave for the children. They wish that, or they try to train the children in such that in the future it will be [a certain way].”

“But I feel that you cannot control the children as much as what you think you’d like to control. And then even you want them to be in a good position, if you cannot support them to get into that position it’s your ability.”

“So my thinking is you should worry about that but I think the main thing is to have them well educated. Then the thing is, if you educate the children as of what you should and from there on I think it’s their ability or their responsibility to get whatever they want to.”

“If they want to be lazy and they have the education and if they don’t want to use the education to get some money then that’s their business not the parents. You cannot tell them you should do this, you should do that and if they don’t do, then how can we control it.”

“So I think beyond that is, we’d like to see them in successful position but I think you cannot push them to do this or to do that.  I think as long as we give them the education then from there on it’s their kuleana.” (Yoshitaka Takashiba)

A successful man, with an eighth-grade education, gets it … the future is framed by working hard and getting an education, and taking personal responsibility for your actions (and occasionally taking some risks).  Yoshitaka Takashiba passed away on August 22, 2011 at the age of 98.

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Pi

Pi – which is written as the Greek letter for p, or π – is the ratio of the circumference of any circle to the diameter of that circle. Regardless of the circle’s size, this ratio will always equal Pi.

Babylonians and Egyptians had rough numerical approximations to the value of Pi, and later mathematicians in ancient Greece, particularly Archimedes, improved on those approximations. By the start of the 20th century, about 500 digits of Pi were known.

The most accurate value for Pi, according to Guinness World Records, is more than 62 trillion digits (62,831,853,071,796 to be precise), by University of Applied Sciences of the Grisons (Switzerland) in Chur, Switzerland, on August 19, 2021. (Guiness World Records) (Others have since computed beyond this.)

In decimal form, the value of Pi is approximately 3.14 – thus the expression that today, March 14, is Pi Day.

But Pi is an irrational number, meaning that its decimal form neither ends (like 1/4 = 0.25) nor becomes repetitive (like 1/6 = 0.166666…). (To only 18 decimal places, Pi is 3.141592653589793238.)

Hence, it is useful to have shorthand for this ratio of circumference to diameter. According to Petr Beckmann’s A History of Pi, the Greek letter π was first used for this purpose by William Jones in 1706, probably as an abbreviation of periphery, and became standard mathematical notation roughly 30 years later.

Try a brief experiment: Using a compass, draw a circle. Take one piece of string and place it on top of the circle, exactly once around.  Now straighten out the string; its length is called the circumference of the circle. Measure the circumference with a ruler.

Next, measure the diameter of the circle, which is the length from any point on the circle straight through its center to another point on the opposite side.

If you divide the circumference of the circle (distance around the perimeter of the circle) by the diameter (distance across the circle through the center), you will get approximately 3.14 – no matter what size circle you drew (every circle has the same ratio of circumference to diameter).

In addition, Pi also connects the radius of a circle (half the diameter) with the area of that circle by the formula: the area is equal to Pi times the radius squared. Additionally, Pi shows up often unexpectedly in many mathematical situations.

(For example, the sum of the infinite series uses Pi (it’s a Basel problem concerning an infinite sum of inverse squares … (the series is the sum of 1/n2, as in 1/12 + 1/ 22 +1/32, etc)) that is represented as, 1 + 1/4 + 1/9 + 1/16 + 1/25 + … + 1/n2 + … is π2/6) (Scientific American) (Don’t you just love math?)

Why else is Pi important?  Pi is key to accurately pointing an antenna toward a satellite. It helps figure out everything from the size of a massive cylinder needed in refinery equipment to the size of paper rolls used in printers.

Pi is also useful in determining the necessary scale of a tank that serves heating and air conditioning systems in buildings of various sizes.

NASA uses Pi on a daily basis. It’s key to calculating orbits, the positions of planets and other celestial bodies, elements of rocket propulsion, spacecraft communication and even the correct deployment of parachutes when a vehicle splashes down on Earth or lands on Mars.

Using just nine digits of Pi, scientists say it can calculate the Earth’s circumference so accurately it only errs by about a quarter of an inch (0.6 centimeters) for every 25,000 miles (about 40,000 kilometers). (WBUR, NPR)

How’s this about Pi? … Possibly the world’s best-known scientist, and one of the greatest and most influential scientists of all time, Albert Einstein was born on March 14, 1879, in Germany.  Oh, and famed physicist Stephen Hawking died on March 14, 2018.

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Richard Henderson Trent

“During [WW I], Richard Henderson Trent was the local representative of the Alien Property Custodian and his responsibility, of course, was to take over property owned by German interests here in the Islands.” (Theodore Frederick Trent, oral history)

“Ready to stir the cauldron which was now bubbling nicely was Dixie Doolittle, whose paid advertisements appeared from November, 1917, to February, 1918. Dixie made it his practice to attack Germanism wherever he found it.”

“One day he found it in the Elks Lodge, and the ensuing libel trial unveiled Dixie Doolittle as none other than Richard H. Trent, president of Trent Trust Company, of whom more will be said later.”

“Trent had attacked the Elks, because their club served liquor, and he considered liquor a German weapon. … The editorial response of the Honolulu Star-Bulletin drove home the point that ‘nothing but the most ceaseless vigilance will serve to protect Hawaii . . . from the ceaseless conspiracies of the enemy.’”

“Everyone now knew the ‘faithlessness of the German word.’  “J. F. Brown in a letter to the Bulletin added the thought that ‘Americans must regard every German as a potential spy unless loyalty proven beyond doubt.’” The court acquitted Trent of the charges, but the advertisements did not reappear.” (Wagner-Seavey)

Born September 11, 1867, in Somerville, Fayette County, Tennessee, Richard Henderson Trent was the son of William Clough and Mary Virgin (Bonner) Trent.

Trent only attended public school until he was 12-years of age, and was a self-educated and self-made man.  He arrived in the Islands in 1901, and almost immediately joined the staff of the Evening Bulletin, but left after several months to become bookkeeper for Henry Waterhouse & Co., and later treasurer of the Henry Waterhouse Trust Co., Ltd.  (Men of Hawaii)

Trent Trust Company, Ltd was  formed on June 20, 1907 (Hawaiian Star, Jul 1, 1907); Town and Country Homes was formed by Trent and others in November 1924, “the purpose of which is to acquire and develop lands and build houses and roads”. (SB, Nov 13, 1924)

“With the Incorporation came an even greater growth, both in the amount, of business and in the number of departments handled by the concern. … Trent Trust Company handles real estate, insurance, stocks and bonds, renting, building, loans and mortgages, and its trust department has well equipped safe deposit vaults.”

“Every department has men who are experts in their line, as efficiency is the keynote of the firm and to which it owes Its rapid growth. It has a very loyal body of clients and good will is one of its biggest assets.” (SB, Jun 30, 1917)

Charles Russell Frazier (the head of Town and Country Homes, Ltd., which was the real estate division of the Trent Trust Co.)  was primarily a marketing man, but was also developer and chief promoter).

In 1924, Harold Kainalu Long Castle sold land on the Windward side to Trent and Frazier and they developed what we call “Lanikai”.  As a marketing ploy to entice wealthy buyers looking for a vacation home at the development they also referenced is as the “Crescent of Content”.

In naming it Lanikai they believed it translated ‘heavenly sea;’ however, they used the English word order.  In Hawaiian the qualifier commonly follows the noun, hence Lani-kai means ‘sea heaven,’ ‘marine heavenʻ.  (Ulukau)

Trent’s company was publisher of TrenTrusTics, a financial journal much in demand by investors and others interested in Hawaiian industries and securities; was first treasurer of County of Oahu and twice re-elected, serving three terms from 1905-1910; president Honolulu Y. M. C. A., 1908-1915, member Territorial Board of Public Lands, 1910-1914. (Men of Hawaii)

Trent was a member of the Board of Regents, University of Hawaiʻi, for several years, as well as served as a trustee of the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Estate and the Bishop Museum.

In 1928, while Trustee of the Kamehameha Schools (1917-1939,) a junior division was created for the Kamehameha School for Boys annual song contest; Trent donated the contest trophy.  The original school for boys contest cup, the George A Andrus cup, was designated as the trophy for the senior division winner and the Richard H Trent Cup for the junior division winner.

Trent was also owner of the only private zoo in the Territory. (Men of Hawaii)  “Mr. Trent’s zoo is practically a public institution, maintained at his personal, private expense for the public’s pleasure.” (PCA, 8/21/1916)  At one point, it appears the zoo was a little too ‘open.’

“Dogs frightened the two animals brought from Australia for Trent’s private zoo and they jumped against their cage with enough force to break through it … A young one, thrown from its mother’s pouch, was killed by the dogs, but the pair of old ones managed to get away and have not been seen since.”  (Star-Bulletin, August 21, 1916)

 “Richard H. Trent, Honolulu’s animal impresario, issues a call to all citizens of Oahu today to join in a mammoth, personally conducted wallaby hunt, the first of its kind ever held in the Hawaiian archipelago.”

“Two of the three small kangaroos which he obtained last week from Australia, at great trouble and expense, escaped from the Trent zoological gardens on Alewa Heights Saturday night and at latest reports last night were roaming at will in the Oahu forests.”

“Inhabitants are warned hereby that the animals positively are not dangerous; will not bite anything more meaty than grass, leaves or succulent forest shrubbery. The unfortunate owner offers a reward of twenty-five dollars for their capture and return alive.”

“Unless the animals are caught they may be come permanent denizens of the mountain districts and, like their distant cousins, the Australia rabbits, may propagate and produce eventually a breed of Hawaiian wallabies.”

“But meantime the public would be deprived of gazing upon them at close range and observing the peculiarities of the unusual, antipodean animals. … The wallabies are perfectly harmless, it is said, but they may prove exceedingly difficult to capture.” (PCA, 8/21/1916)

While the wallabies once roamed from Nuʻuanu to Hālawa, they are now known to live in only one valley, the ʻEwa side of Kalihi Valley, which has a series of sheer cliffs and narrow rocky ledges.  (earlham-edu)

The Department of Land and Natural Resources (DLNR) Division of Forestry and Wildlife (DLNR-DOFAW) no longer keeps track of the population, since they believe the animals are nonthreatening.

Wallabies are designated as protected game mammals by DLNR (§13-123-12,) which means no hunting, killing or possessing, unless authorized.  (The same rule applies to wild cattle.) In 2002, a wallaby was captured in Foster Village; DLNR released it back into Kalihi Valley.

The last state survey of Kalihi wallabies was in the early-1990s; at the time, the estimated population was as high as 75-animals.

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Mōkapu Peninsula

“I learnt, that their present king’s name was Taheeterre [Kahekili], and that he was also king of Morotoi [Molokai] and Mowee [Maui]. The old man informed me, that his residence was in a bay [Kāne‘ohe Bay] round the West point, and importuned me very much to carry the ships there, as that place, he said, afforded plenty of fine hogs and vegetables.”

“Indeed, I had some reason to think, that the inhabitants on that part of the island were more numerous than in King George’s Bay [Maunalua Bay], as I observed most of the double canoes came round the West point; but as the people now brought us plenty of water, I determined to keep my present situation, it being in many respects a very eligible one …”

“… for we hitherto had been favoured with a most refreshing sea breeze, which blows over the low land at the head of the bay; and the bay all round has a very beautiful appearance …”

“… the low land and vallies being in a high state of cultivation, and crowded with plantations of taro, sweet potatoes, sugarcane, &c. interspersed with a great number of cocoa-nut trees, which renders the prospect truly delightful. …”

“Potatoes and taro are likewise met with here-in great plenty, but I never observed any bread-fruit, and scarcely any yams; so that there is reason to suppose they are not cultivated by the inhabitants of Woahoo [O‘ahu].” (Capt Nathaiel Portlock, June 1786)

Mōkapu received its basic formation when volcanic eruptions of the southeast end of the Ko‘olau mountain range produced many lava flows and much falling rock. These same eruptions produced secondary tuff cones now known as Diamond Head, Koko Head and Punchbowl. (Steele, MCBH)

 Like Lē‘ahi (Diamond Head), Ulapa‘u tuff is a volcanic rock made up of a mixture of volcanic rock and mineral fragments (they were likely explosive volcanic eruptions).  (SOEST)

“The ahupua‘a of Heeia and its sources of foods such as the sea pond of Heeia, the large mullet of Kalimuloa and Kealohi, the reef of Malauka‘a where octopus were found, the travelling uhu and ohua fishes, and the wooden bowls of Mokapu, belonged to Maui-kiikii (Top-knot Maui).” (Kamakau in Sterling & Summers)

Mōkapu Peninsula encompasses portions He‘eia and Kāne‘ohe – these are extensions of the ahupua‘a across the large basin of Kāne‘ohe Bay.  Mōkapu peninsula is further sub-divided into six sections.

The tip of the left lobe of the peninsula was called Mōkapu and was in the He‘eia section, while Heleloa, Kuwa‘aohe, Ulupa‘u, Halekou-Kaluapuhi, and Nu‘upia, rested in the Kāne‘ohe district. (Sterling & Summers)

“The two divergent lobes of Mo-kapu possess distinctive features. The left lobe … is marked by Hawaii Loa crater, the coral bluffs, lava sheets, Pyramid Rock, and stone ruins.  The right lobe is dominated and terminated by the Ulu-pa‘u crater. This is a broad, shallow, saucer-shaped vent, a truncated hollow cone, very similar in appearance and structure to Le-ahi.” (MacCaughey, 1917)

‘Mōkapu’ is the contraction of ‘Mōku Kapu’ … ‘mōku’ (island) and ‘kapu’ (sacred or restricted),  which means “Sacred or Forbidden Island.”

The sea and bays around Mōkapu were kapu in pre-contact days. The right to fish in the surrounding waters was granted only to the high chiefs and servants of the king. These fishing grounds were called ko‘a.  (Steele, MCBH)

Fishing was confined to certain types of fish native to certain sections of the ocean. Persons were assigned to areas with the task of feeding the fish two or three times a week.  (Steele, MCBH)

Though Mōkapu Peninsula had only limited fresh water, ‘uala (sweet potatoes) and ipu (gourds) were cultivated there. It is also likely that other mulched dryland crops such as kalo (taro), ko (sugar canes), niu (coconuts), ‘ulu (breadfruit), and the pia (arrow root) also grew there.

However, the most important resource of the peninsula were its loko i‘a (fishponds). There were at least five loko i‘a on Mokapu Peninsula, including Ka-lua-puhi (literally: The eel pit), Nu‘u-pia (interpretively: arrow root mound) …

… Hale-kou (interpretively: House surrounded by kou trees), Hele-loa (literally: Distant travel), Muli-wai-‘olena (interpretively: Turmeric [yellowish] estuary), and Pa-‘ohua (literally: Fish fry enclosure). (Maly)

Prior to Polynesian settlement, the ponds were thought to be a shallow open channel between Kāneʻohe and Kailua Bays, making Mōkapu an island, connected to Oʻahu by a thin coastal barrier dune.

Kaneohe Ranch began in 1893, when Nannie Rice leased 15,000 acres to JP Mendonca and C Bolte for cattle ranching.  Incorporated as Kaneohe Ranch Company, Ltd. in 1894, the lands were leased and primarily used for raising pineapple, processing sugar, and cattle operations.

In 1905, James Bicknell Castle acquired the cattle ranching interest of Mendonca and Bolte, and in 1907 he purchased large blocks of shares in the cattle operations of the Kaneohe Ranch Company.

In 1917, Harold Kainalu Long Castle, son of James B Castle, purchased the title to 9,500 acres of land from Mrs. Rice, which included the ‘iii of Heleloa. (HABS No. HI-311-L)

The United States’ military presence on the Mōkapu Peninsula area initially began in 1918. It was through President Woodrow Wilson’s Executive Order No. 2900 that the Kuwa‘aohe Military Reservation was established. (HABS No. HI-311-L)

Use and ownership has been shared and alternated between the Army and Navy over the years. Following the Base Realignment and Closure Committee’s decision to close NAS Barbers Point, the Kāne‘ohe base acquired 4 Navy P-3 patrol squadrons and one SH-60 Anti-Submarine squadron in 1999.

Today, there are almost 10,000 active-duty Navy and Marine Corps personnel attached to the base.  The Marine Corps Base Hawai‘i (MCBH) on Mōkapu maintains and operates the airfield and other training facilities in support of the readiness and global projection of DoD and military operating forces. (MCBH)

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