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February 6, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

‘Akiapōlā‘au

The ‘Akiapōlā‘au, a species of honeycreeper endemic to (found only in) Hawai‘i. The ʻAkiapōlāʻau was fairly abundant and widely distributed on the island of Hawai‘i until the 1970s.

Since then, both its range and abundance have severely declined, and it is now only found in high-elevation forests. The species was listed as endangered in 1967 under the Endangered Species Act. (American Bird Conservancy)

The ‘Akiap̄olā‘au occurs as two disjunct populations in the windward and Kau regions on the Island of Hawai‘i and total population is approximately 1,900 birds (2009). Trend analysis indicates density is increasing in Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge in north windward Hawaii (2016). (FWS)

Their distribution occurs in forests dominated by koa and ‘ōhi‘a between 4,875 and 6,500 feet elevation on the Island of Hawai‘i. Their original range likely included all forested areas of the island.

Adult males have a bright yellow head and underparts, yellow-green back and wings, and a small, black mask. Adult females are olive above with grayish-yellow to yellow underparts. Males are larger than females and have longer bills. (DLNR)

Female ʻAkiapolaʻau show a strong preference for ‘ōhi‘a trees as nest sites. They build their nests using strips of ‘ōhi‘a bark, incorporating a unique “picket fence” rim. The strips of bark protruding around the perimeter may help camouflage the nesting female from hawks and other predators.

The ʻAkiapōlāʻau only lays one egg (rarely two) during its nesting season and then cares for its fledgling for at least 4 to 5 months. This low reproductive rate makes the species particularly vulnerable to threats and slow to recover. (DLNR)

Even though the ‘Akiapōlā‘au breeds any time of the year, this species is known as a slow reproducer, as breeding typically occurs only every other year. The peak of the breeding season is most commonly from early February to late July.

The ‘Akiapōlā‘au is monogamous. Once a pair is formed, the partners remain together for several seasons. During the breeding season, the male defends a small territory. (FWS)

‘Akiapōlā‘au are mainly insectivorous, with larva and spiders being the most important prey items; rarely takes nectar but takes sap from holes it excavates in ‘ōhi‘a trees. (DLNR)

The ‘Akiap̄olā‘au has evolved to fill the niche occupied by woodpeckers in many other parts of the world. (FWS) They have one of the most unusual bills in the Hawaiian honeycreeper family, with a long, downward-curving upper mandible, used for probing, and a shorter lower mandible that functions as a chisel.

This specialized bill allows the species to exploit the same niche occupied by woodpeckers in other parts of the world. ʻAkiapōlāʻau even make woodpecker-like tapping sounds as they forage along tree limbs in search of insects. (American Bird Conservancy)

Here are links videos of ‘Akiapōlā‘au by Jack Jeffrey:

https://www.facebook.com/jack.jeffrey.351/videos/761717921690744

https://www.facebook.com/jack.jeffrey.351/videos/1351613492271592

I am happy to be a member of the Board of the Friends of Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge (https://friendsofhakalauforest.org/).

The ‘Akiapōlā‘au is featured on the Friends’ logo. (Please consider joining the Friends of Hakalau Forest https://friendsofhakalauforest.org/membership/.

February 5, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Keʻeaumoku

Keʻeaumoku Pāpaʻiaheahe (c. 1736-1804) was married to Namahanaʻi Kaleleokalani; they had several children, Kaʻahumanu (favorite wife of Kamehameha,) Kalākua Kaheiheimālie (wife of Kamehameha, later known as Hoapili Wahine,) Kahekili Keʻeaumoku II (Governor Cox of Maui,) Kuakini (John Adams Kuakini, Governor of Hawaiʻi and Oʻahu) and Namahana Piʻia (wife of Kamehameha.) (kekoolani)

“Before the conquest of Kamehameha, the several islands were ruled by independent kings, who were frequently at war with each other, but more often with their own subjects. As one chief acquired sufficient strength, he disputed the title of the reigning prince.”

“If successful, his chance of permanent power was quite as precarious as that of his predecessor. In some instances the title established by force of arms remained in the same family for several generations, disturbed, however, by frequent rebellions … war being a chief occupation …” (Jarves)

At the period of Captain Cook’s arrival (1778-1779), the Hawaiian Islands were divided into four kingdoms: (1) the island of Hawaiʻi under the rule of Kalaniʻōpuʻu, who also had possession of the Hāna district of east Maui; (2) Maui (except the Hāna district,) Molokai, Lānai and Kahoʻolawe, ruled by Kahekili; (3) Oʻahu, under the rule of Kahahana; and at (4) Kauai and Niʻihau, Kamakahelei was ruler.

Keʻeaumoku became a staunch supporter and one of the great chiefs of the Kona district and the first among the war leaders of Kamehameha.

Following Kalaniʻōpuʻu’s death in 1782, the kingship was inherited by his son Kīwalaʻō; Kamehameha (Kīwalaʻō’s cousin) was given guardianship of the Hawaiian god of war, Kūkaʻilimoku.)

Dissatisfied with subsequent redistricting of the lands by district chiefs, civil war ensued between Kīwalaʻō’s forces and the various chiefs under the leadership of Kamehameha.

In the first major skirmish, Keʻeaumoku distinguished himself in the battle of Mokuʻōhai (a fight between Kamehameha and Kiwalaʻo in July, 1782 at Keʻei, south of Kealakekua Bay on the Island of Hawaiʻi.)

An ʻōlelo noʻeau notes, “Ka aku la kaʻu lāʻau i ka ʻaʻama kua lenalena.” (“My spear pierced the yellow-shelled crab.”) – a boast of a warrior who in the battle speared Keʻeaumoku (through his ʻahuʻula (cloak) – who survived.)

Keʻeaumoku killed Kiwalaʻo in a hand-to-hand combat; however, Keʻeaumoku’s mamo ʻahuʻula (feather cape – primarily of yellow feathers, named “Eheukani”) was bloodstained in that fight.

With the death of Kiwalaʻo, the victory made Kamehameha chief of the districts of Kona, Kohala and Hāmākua, while Keōua, the brother of Kiwalaʻo, held possession of Kaʻū and Puna, and Keawemauhili declared himself independent of both in Hilo. (Kalākaua)

From the first of Kamehameha’s battles Keʻeaumoku had not doubted the triumph of that chief over all adversaries in the end, and eagerly grasped at every circumstance calculated to strengthen the conviction. So believing, his way seemed to be clear. (Kalākaua)

Keʻeaumoku never doubted the success of Kamehameha, and once, when Kamehameha was discomforted, Keʻeaumoku smiled as he said to his chief: “Thus far you have only skirmished with your enemies; you will win when you fight battles!” (Kalākaua)

The remaining portion of Hāmākua, the district of Hilo, and a part of Puna, acknowledged Keawemauhili as their Moi; while the lower part of Puna and the district of Kaʻū, was under Keōua. (Fornander)

Kamehameha, through the assistance of the Kona “Uncles” (Keʻeaumoku, Keaweaheulu, Kameʻeiamoku & Kamanawa (the latter two ended up on the Island’s coat of arms;)) succeeded, after a struggle of more than ten years, in securing to himself the supreme authority over that island.

A later battle at ʻIao saw the Maui troops completely annihilated by Kamehameha’s forces, and it is said that the corpses of the slain were so many as to choke up the waters of the stream of lao, and that hence one of the names of this battle was “Kepaniwai” (the damming of the waters). (Fornander)

Then, a final battle of Kamehameha’s conquest took place on Oʻahu. Kamehameha landed his fleet and disembarked his army on Oʻahu, extending from Waiʻalae to Waikīkī … he marched up the Nuʻuanu valley, where Kalanikūpule had posted his forces. (Fornander)

In 1804, Kamehameha was preparing to invade Kauai – with the goal of uniting the Islands under single control. However, prior to the invasion, maʻi ‘ōkuʻu (believed to be cholera) struck the islands. It affected Kamehameha and his planned invasion of Kauai.

Keʻeaumoku, the slayer of princes and maker of kings, died peacefully as governor of the windward islands. (Kalākaua) It is believed maʻi ‘ōkuʻu was the cause of death of Keʻeaumoku, on March 21, 1804.

In the face of the threat of a further invasion, in 1810, at Pākākā on Oʻahu, negotiations between King Kaumuali‘i and Kamehameha I took place and Kaumualiʻi yielded Kauai to Kamehameha.

The agreement marked the end of war and thoughts of war across the islands. Although Kaumuali‘i had ceded Kauai and Niʻihau to Kamehameha I, he generally maintained de facto independence and control of the island following his agreement with Kamehameha.

February 4, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Dealing with Outcasts, Desperadoes and Debt

A February 4, 1845 report by US Naval Captain Thomas ap Catesby Jones (and accompanying documents) to the US House of Representatives tells us a lot about the situation in the Islands in the early stages of whaling in the Pacific.

This involves petitions from ship owners, business people and others in the community to Presidents James Monroe and John Quincy Adams and resulted in Captain Jones being sent to the Islands to help make things right.

Several merchants and others engaged in whaling wrote to President Monroe saying, “They are fully persuaded that a naval force, properly distributed there, will have a powerful tendency to prevent such fatal occurrences, by deterring from acts of violence the unprincipled, who are inseparably connected with such a multitude of men as are required to navigate their ships.”

“These, which have till within a short time been confined to a small portion of the Pacific, now traverse the greater part of that ocean, which has increased the danger of which they complain to a very considerable degree.”

“Hence, they feel the necessity of a naval force stationed there, that shall visit the remote parts of it, and occasionally touch at those islands to which their ships resort for refreshments, &c. …”

New Bedford wrote the President Adams, “in prosecuting whaling voyages into the most distant parts of the Pacific ocean, it becomes necessary for ships so employed to touch at islands in that ocean for purposes of supplies and refreshment …”

“that the Sandwich islands, as affording convenient opportunities for this purpose, have of late years being very generally resorted to; that very nearly one hundred American whaling ships may be estimated to visit Oahu (a port in the Sandwich islands) in the course of every year, and it is not unfrequent that over thirty American whalemen are lying at that portal one time …”

“Experience has shown that, since the introduction of foreign habits and foreign vices among those distant islanders, their characters have undergone an essential depreciation: the purity of intent which characterizes man in his state of natural simplicity, is now scarcely to be traced among them …”

“outcasts and desperadoes have mingled with them, carrying into their habitations the seeds of iniquity, inciting among them a spirit of evil, and diffusing a skill in the purposes of vice, at once to be deplored and dreaded.”

“Upon a population thus prepared for acts of violence and outrage, the mere influence of a pacific habit cannot be safely trusted to as a restraining motive. The distance, also, at which these people (thus attempered to evil design) are placed from the effective operation of civil power, is a circumstance truly calculated to inspire apprehension and alarm.”

A subsequent petition to President Adams noted that “there were over one hundred and fifty seamen (principally deserters from the whale ships) prowling about the country, naked and destitute … their number was constantly increasing, and serious apprehensions existed that necessity would induce those lawless deserters to commit some act of a piratical nature.” (Petitions to John Quincy Adams)

Mr. Bayly, from the US House Committee on Foreign Affairs, made the following remarks, “It appears, from memorials presented to Presidents Monroe and Adams by a large number of merchants and others, residents of Nantucket, engaged in the whale-fishery, that in 1824 and 1825 mutinies were taking place on board of American vessels …”

“and desertions of their crews, who took refuge in the Sandwich islands; which place, it was feared, would become, unless our government interfered, ‘a nest of pirates and murderers;’ and the government was asked to send a national vessel to apprehend the offenders, and to look generally after American commerce in the South Seas.”

In addition, there were debts due to our citizens by the people and government of the Sandwich islands … over $500,000 due by the late king Tamahamaha, of the Sandwich islands, to sundry citizens of the United States; (which debt the successors of Tamahamaha had refused to recognize)”.

“Captain Jones, upon his arrival at the Sandwich islands, found great obstacles to the success of his mission. The natives were a semi-barbarous people, just emerging from heathenism …”

“there were in the islands a great many lawless foreigners, long familiarized to living without the restraint of law, who insidiously opposed every effort to introduce law and order, and everything was in a state of great disorder and confusion.”

“In addition to this, the English government had contrived to possess itself of a very large share of the confidence of those islanders. … The influence thus acquired was not all which the British agents interposed to prevent Captain Jones’s success …”

“but the English consul general, residing at Oahu, in 1826, openly claimed for his king the right of sovereignty over those islands; and, in Captain Jones’s presence, at a general council convoked for conference with him, told the regency that they had no power to make treaties, or to enter into any stipulations with a foreign power, without the consent of Great Britain …”

“and even went so far as to warn the islanders that the steps they were then taking to establish a firm and lasting friendship with the United States, would assuredly bring upon them the wrath of the great and powerful nation which he represented.”

“In contrast with the exalted opinion which the Sandwich islanders held of the English nation, was the poor opinion which they had been taught to entertain of the United States.”

“[T]hey had been taught to believe ‘that the Americans were destitute of maritime force. The English,’ they say, ‘have men-of-war, but the Americans have only whalers and trading vessels.’”

“Under these circumstances, Captain Jones thought it indispensable to his success so to demean himself as to elevate, in the eyes of those islanders, the American character; and he was compelled to resort to expensive entertainments and presents, the invariable means of facilitating negotiations with an unlettered people …”

“Notwithstanding the difficulties which he had to encounter, Captain Jones was entirely successful. He negotiated a commercial arrangement with the authorities of the Sandwich islands, eminently beneficial to us, and he prevailed upon them to adopt a plan of raising a revenue to satisfy claims of our citizens, as novel and curious as it was successful.”

“These two measures were the first essay of those islanders in negotiation and legislation; and it is believed the success of them tended to no small extent to generate in them a feeling of independence and self-reliance; which alone, it is more than probable, has prevented these islands from being numbered, by this time, among the colonial possessions of Great Britain.”

“The one has ever been regarded by all nations having intercourse with these islanders as a solemn treaty; has been respected as such; and been made the basis of all similar arrangements entered into with them.”

“The other was so efficient as to secure to our citizens some $500,000, the recovery of which, until it was adopted, had been despaired of.”

(In an agreement between Jones and Kaahumanu (as Regent), Kalanimoku (as Prime Minister), Boki, Hoapili and Namahana, the debt was paid off via a tax where,

“Every man is to deliver half a pecul of good sandal-wood to the governor of the district to which he belongs [and] Every woman of the age of thirteen years or upwards, is to pay a mat, 12 feet long and 6 wide, or tapa of equal value, (to such a mat,) or the sum of one Spanish dollar”.

“After the public debts are paid, the remainder of the amount of this tax to be divided between the king and governors—one half to the regency, for the use of the king; and the other half to be divided between the governors, in proportion to the amount collected from each island.”)

“The importance of the Sandwich islands as a place of refuge for the refreshment and repair of our marine, is understood by all commercial men, and cannot well be overrated; and …”

“the services of Captain Jones, the pioneer in making those arrangements which have kept them open to our shipping, cannot be too highly estimated.”

“He deserves the gratitude of every man who values our South Sea commerce; and ought not to be permitted to suffer from pecuniary losses sustained in rendering such important services to his country.” (US House Committee on Foreign Affairs, 28^th Congress, 2d Session, Report No. 92)

He “secured for himself among the people the designation of ‘the kind-eyed chief’ – a compliment falling on the ear of many of different classes”. (Hiram Bingham)

February 3, 2024 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

William Charles Lunalilo

William Charles Lunalilo was born on January 31, 1835 in an area known as Pohukaina (now part of Honolulu) to High Chiefess Miriam ‘Auhea Kekauluohi (Kuhina Nui, or Premier of the Hawaiian Kingdom and niece of Kamehameha I) and High Chief Charles Kanaʻina.

Lunalilo’s grandparents were Kalaʻimamahu (half-brother of Kamehameha I) and Kalākua (sister to Kaʻahumanu). His great grandfather was Keouakupupailaninui (father of Kamehameha I).

He was declared eligible to succeed by the royal decree of King Kamehameha III and was educated at the Chief’s Children’s School, and at age four, became one of its first students.

He was known as a scholar, a poet and a student with amazing memory for detail. From a very young age, he loved to write, with favorite subjects in school being literature and music.

As a young man, he was courteous and intelligent, generous and friendly. His close friends affectionately called him “Prince Bill”. His native people called him Lokomaikaʻi (“merciful, gracious, generous or benevolent”.)

In the Constitutional Convention of 1864, Lunalilo strongly supported both the cause of the people against unnecessary interference by any ruler and a more democratic government with two houses of the legislature, a House of Nobles and a House of Representatives. He wanted a constitution that favored the people and gave less power to the king.

Kamehameha V had not named a successor to the throne before he died on December 11, 1872. Lunalilo wanted his people to choose their next ruler in a democratic manner and requested a plebiscite to be held on New Year’s Day following the death of Kamehameha V.

He therefore noted, “Whereas, it is desirable that the wishes of the Hawaiian people be consulted as to a successor to the Throne, therefore, notwithstanding that according to the law of inheritance, I am the rightful heir to the Throne, in order to preserve peace, harmony and good order, I desire to submit the decision of my claim to the voice of the people.” (Lunalilo, December 16, 1872)

Prince David Kalākaua and others not in the Kamehameha lineage chose to run against Prince Lunalilo. The people on every island chose William Charles Lunalilo as King.

At noon on January 8, 1873, the Legislature met, as required by law, in the Courthouse to cast their official ballots of election of the next King. Lunalilo received all thirty-seven votes.

The coronation of Lunalilo took place at Kawaiahaʻo Church in a simple ceremony on January 9, 1873. He was to reign for one year and twenty-five days, succumbing to pulmonary tuberculosis on February 3, 1874.

As a proponent of democracy and more freedom of choice for his people, he did not name a successor before his death because he believed that the people should, again, choose their leader. His trait of “Lokomaikaʻi” followed him in death, because of his desire to do what was best for the people.

Upon his passing, the Royal Mausoleum was the temporary resting place for Lunalilo. By birthright, his remains could have remained there with the other Aliʻi, however, his desire was to be among his people, and in 1875 his remains were moved to their permanent resting place in a tomb built for him and his father, Kanaʻina, on the grounds of Kawaiahaʻo Church.

His estate included large landholdings on five major islands, consisting of 33 ahupuaʻa, nine ‘ili and more than a dozen home lots. His will established a perpetual trust under the administration of three trustees to be appointed by the justices of the Hawaiian Supreme Court.

Lunalilo was the first of the large landholding aliʻi to create a charitable trust for the benefit of his people.

The purpose of his trust was to build a home to accommodate the poor, destitute and inform people of Hawaiian (aboriginal) blood or extraction, with preference given to older people. The will charged the Trustees to sell all of the estate’s land and to build and maintain the home.

In 1879 the land for the first Lunalilo Home was granted to the estate by the Hawaiian government and consisted of 21 acres in Kewalo, near the present Roosevelt High School.

The construction of the first Lunalilo Home at that site was paid for by the sale of estate lands. The Home was completed in 1883 to provide care for 53 residents. An adjoining 39 acres for pasture and dairy was conveyed by the legislative action to the Estate in 1888.

After 44 years, the Home in Kewalo had deteriorated and became difficult and costly to maintain. The trustees located a new 20-acre site in Maunalua on the slopes of Koko Head.

The Maunalua site was purchased by the Brown family (John Ii Estate, Ltd.) and given as a gift to Lunalilo Home in memory of their mother Irene Ii Holloway, daughter of John Ii, who was a close friend of Lunalilo’s father.

With Court approval in 1927, the Kewalo/Makiki property was subdivided and sold and the proceeds used to purchase and renovate the buildings on the site to accommodate 56 residents.

Lunalilo Home temporarily ceased operations from 1997 through 2001 to undertake major renovations to its structure. Upon re-opening, it was licensed by the State Department of Health as an Adult Residential Care Home (ARCH) to accommodate 42 residents.

February 2, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

William Ellis’ Account of ‘Contact’ and the Initial Days of Western Experiences in Hawai‘i

William Wade Ellis was a surgeon’s mate during Captain James Cook’s third voyage, first on the Discovery and later on the Resolution, and gives quite a good history of this expedition. Ellis wrote a book and added illustrations. Here is his account of ‘Contact’ and description of what he saw.

Just prior to reaching Hawai‘i, they landed at Christmas Island – Ellis reminds us of signs of land … “we observed a greater number of birds than usual, which increased as we continued our course; and most of them being such as never fly very far from land, we concluded ourselves to be in the neighbourhood of some.”

“Orders were given to keep a good look out; and we stood on, the birds (which were boobies, men of war birds, egg birds, and tropic birds) becoming more numerous … This place … we called Christmas Island (having spent that anniversary there)”.

They left Christmas Island and “Our course from hence was nearly north; we had a fine steady breeze, and the weather was fine and pleasant. … The next day (Jan. 18, 1778) … we saw land to the eastward … but night coming on, we tacked and stood off till morning (Jan. 19th), when we proceeded to trace the coast [of Kauai] in a SW and W direction.”

“The land at first presented rather a barren appearance, but upon a closer view it improved upon us, particularly on the western side, which consisted of a large tract of fine level plains, and beyond them a double range of hills, which were covered with trees.”

“Upon the shore we saw a few clusters of coco nut trees, but by no means so abundant as at the Society Isles. As we drew nearer in-shore, some of the inhabitants put off in their canoes, and very readily came along side.”

“Their colour was more of the copper cast than that of the natives of Taheitee, and they wore their hair long, and of different hues, like the people of the Friendly Isles. Their dress was nothing more than a narrow slip of cloth round their middle, and they were marked or tattowed in different parts of their body.”

“Their cloth was stamped or printed in various patterns, not much unlike our printed linens; their language nearly resembled that of Taheitee. They were easily persuaded to come on board, and, like all other Indians soon began to thieve, but nothing of any consequence was lost.”

“We saw no weapons among them, nor did they behave abruptly or disagreeably, but in their disposition seemed friendly and good natured. We purchased a few pigs and sweet potatoes of them, for which we gave them a hatchet or two, and a few small nails, with which they appeared very well satisfied. In the evening we stood off, intending to examine the place more closely the next day.”

“In the morning (Jan. 20th) at six, captain Cook made a signal for the Discovery’s fix-oared cutter, which, accompanied with the Resolution’s pinnace and large cutter, was sent to look for a safe place for the ships to anchor, and to try what soundings were to be found nearer in shore.”

“During their absence, we stood off and on, being fearful of venturing too near. The natives came off as yesterday, and we bought a few hogs, tarrow, sweet potatoes, and sugar cane, of all which they appeared to have plenty, and excellent of their kind.”

“At three in the afternoon the boats returned, having found a tolerable birth, and at four both vessels came to. Soon after captain Cook went on shore in the pinnace, attended by the Discovery’s cutter, both well-armed.”

“He was received on shore very cordially by the natives, who treated him during his stay with great respect and attention , and brought many small hogs, potatoes, tarrow, or eddoes, and sugar-cane, all which were purchased at a very easy rate.”

“The women were rather ordinary, and in general masculine, and will scarce bear a comparison with the fair dames of Taheitee.”

“Their dress is the same as that of the men, only the cloth is wider, and reaches down to the knees. Their hair is cut short behind, and long before, but turned back like our toupees, which mode of wearing it does not set them off to the greatest advantage.”

“Many, who were along-side in their canoes, pleaded hard to come on board, but captain Cook had given strict orders, previous to his anchoring, not to suffer a single woman to be admitted into the ships, as there were several people in both, who still had the venereal disease.”

“But, notwithstanding every precaution, many of our men contrived to have connexions with them, in consequence of which we found this terrible disorder raging among them when we arrived there the second time.”

“The next day (Jan. 21st), the launches were sent to fill water, which could be procured without much difficulty, from a fine river at no great distance from the ships, and parties were dispatched to the shore to trade with the natives, while others were to superintend the market on board the ships.”

“They supplied us with abundance of every thing the island produced, and in the evening our trading parties returned with abundance of fine hogs, potatoes, sugar-cane, &c.”

“The 22d was very windy, with much rain, which prevented our boats from landing, as a heavy surf broke upon the shore. Our friends however came off in the midst of it, and a brisk trade was carried on, on board.”

“We also purchased many of their ornaments, such as fans, necklaces, bracelets, cloaks, and caps, composed of red and yellow feathers, which were very curious, the latter being made in form of helmets.”

“They also brought off some spears, which were about ten feet long, admirably polished, and the end intended for execution was about eight or ten inches in length, had many barbs, and was pointed.”

“Early the next morning (Jan. 24^th,) … About nine, the king of the island came alongside in a double canoe; captain Clerke, understanding who he was, requested him much to come on board, which he appeared willing to do, but his attendants were so fearful of his receiving some hurt or other, that they intreated him not to do it.”

“He ventured however as far as the gangway, where he sat down, and presented the captain with a curious carved bowl; in return for which he received some large nails, a cut-glass bowl, and some other trifles, which pleased him exceedingly. After a short stay; his attendants bore him in their arms to his canoe, and he went ashore.”

“His name was Tomahana; he appeared to be about thirty years old, and was above the middle size; he was clothed in the same manner as the meanest of his subjects, and could only be distinguished by the great respect they paid him. Soon after his departure, the queen arrived in another canoe, and in the same manner was permitted to go no farther than the gangway.”

“She likewise made captain Clerke a present of some elegant ruffs made of various coloured feathers, for which he gave her some beads, looking glasses, and a piece of scarlet cloth; after which she was carried into her canoe, and proceeded to the shore. She was young, and had a pleasing countenance, but her dress was not remarkable.”

They then headed to Ni‘ihau. “This island was considerably smaller than the other, and had rather a wretched appearance; the south point of it is terminated by a high bluff rock, the interior parts are low, with here and there a small elevation, and not a tree is to be seen.”

“In the morning (30th), our new acquired friends came off with sweet potatoes, yams, and salt; in the two latter articles they seemed to abound. The yams were large, and the salt was equal to any we ever saw, both for colour and quality.”

“The boats were sent on shore to trade as usual, but they found the landing far more difficult than at the last place, on account of a very heavy surf, which, when the wind varies in the least to the westward, rolls in at so terrible a rate, as totally to cut off all communication with the shore.”

“In the evening, they brought off what few articles they conveniently could, but left two or three of the gentlemen behind, who superintended the market, till the weather should be more moderate.”

“This morning (Feb. 1st), the weather being more moderate, the boats were sent on shore, and in the afternoon brought off the gentlemen, with some yams and salt, but were obliged to leave the principal part of their purchases behind.”

“A number of the natives came off to the Discovery the next day (Feb. 2d), with their canoes laden with salt, yams, sweet potatoes, and fish dried and salted, of the roots, a sufficient quantity were purchased to supply the ship’s company two months at least.”

“A’towi, which is the name of the largest island, is composed, on the NW side, of a large tract of level land, the interior parts, as has been observed, before, consisting of a double range of hills.”

“The houses of the natives are in general situated near the shore, and placed in clusters, so as to form small towns or villages. Their external appearance greatly resembles the top of a barn placed upon the ground, with a small entrance in the middle.”

“Some of them were elevated upon posts about three feet high, particularly those nearest the sea; from which we may conclude, that they are, during some parts of the year, subject to inundations. They are well thatched on the outside with dry grass, so as totally to prevent the entrance of rain.”

“The floor is also well strewed with dry grass, upon which mats of various sizes and dimensions are placed. These mats are of a very close, compact texture, and made of different patterns, some of which are really elegant. They vary greatly in their degree of fineness.”

“Their canoes or boats are the neatest we ever saw, and composed of two different coloured woods, the bottom being dark, the upper part light, and furnished with an out-rigger.”

“Besides these, they have another mode of conveying themselves in the water, upon very light flat pieces of board, which we called sharkboards, from the similitude the anterior part bore to the head of that fish. Upon these they will venture into the heaviest surfs, and paddling with their hands and feet get on at a great rate. Indeed, we never saw people so active in the water, which almost seems their natural element.”

“O’neehow, which is the westernmost island, is very small, and rather low. It produces sugar-cane, plaintains, sweet potatoes, yams, and salt; in the two latter articles it exceeds A’towi. The inhabitants are not numerous; their houses, &c. are exacty like those of the above mentioned isle.”

“In the afternoon of the 2d of February, the Discovery joined her consort, and proceeded in a NNE and NE direction for the coast of America.”