Wine | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

February 9, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Grace Family

“Grace Brothers has come to be a strong entity in the building and development of Hawaii, but their early years were on a much more modest scale when John and Walter Grace started the business”.

“They were local boys whose father managed the Ben F Dillingham ranch in Nuʻuanu. When he was killed in a ranch accident, his widow, left with thirteen children and a small dairy, managed to carry on and educate all thirteen, two of whom were John and Walter Grace.”

In 1920, these two opened their doors primarily as suppliers of construction equipment and materials. They operated as factors of commission merchants.”

“That is, they represented factories as sales agents, made the sales as brokers, and manufacturers billed direct to the customer, paying a commission to the partnership.”

“The incorporated in 1931, and were located at 770 Ala Moana Blvd. The older brother, John, became president and motivating force for the new firm.”

“Everything from moving porpoises – to moving mountains, providing construction equipment and materials as well as paving and repairing the roads to get there – is the business of Grace Brothers, Ltd and its associate company Nanakuli Paving & Rock.”

“If a contractor requires cranes, bulldozers, backhoes, loaders, pumps, compressors, trac-drills, rollers, compactors and/or air tools – they have them for sale or rent, and operators are provided on the large equipment.”

“Unusual facet of the hauling business is the transportation of porpoises for Sea Life Park, when these sea-going mammals must go back to the sea for further schooling, or when they are newly caught and must be taken to their new home. The ‘taxi’ is a large flatbed Grace Brothers truck with hydraulic crane.”

“The stretcher-borne ‘passenger’, tranquilized if necessary, is hoisted into a container, packed with wet cloths for his protection and comfort and is taken to his destination”. (Advertiser, September 26, 1967)

The company continued to grow and eventually represented more than 50 agricultural, construction and industrial equipment manufacturers, distributing its products throughout the Pacific.

Prompted by statehood in 1959, the ensuing construction boom of the 1960s and the record number of tourists in the 1970s resulted in major airport and freeway construction in the islands.

Grace Brothers entered the paving industry at an opportune time in 1973, purchasing the paving operations and hot mix asphalt plants at Halawa and on Molokai from Nanakuli Paving and Rock Company.

In 1984, Grace Brothers acquired Pacific Concrete & Rock, a quarry and ready-mix operator on Oahu, and renamed the combined operations Grace Pacific Corporation.

The company expanded its product line to include the manufacturing of hot mix asphalt and the production of crushed basalt, limestone and sand aggregate. Operations grew with the establishment of hot mix asphalt plants and paving operations on Maui and the Big Island in 1988 and again with the purchase of the quarry on Molokai in 1994.

Recent acquisitions that have solidified Grace Pacific’s reputation as a leader in the paving industry include its purchase of Hawaiian Bitumuls Paving & Precast, a highly respected islandwide paver since the 1930s; …

… Niu Construction, a paving contractor on Kauai for the more than 25 years; and SUN Industries, a provider of roadway safety products and services. Grace Pacific continues to diversify its lines of business, featuring more construction services than ever before.

During its rise to the top of the paving industry, Grace Pacific has worked on virtually all of the streets and highways throughout the state of Hawaii.

Recent projects on Oahu include preventive maintenance work on Kamehameha and Nimitz Highways and innovative improvements on the Moanalua Freeway. On Maui, they resurfaced the Haleakala Crater Road and completed guardrail and shoulder improvements along Hana Highway.

On the Big Island, Grace Pacific has worked on Saddle Road and been involved with numerous large projects on Queen Kaahumanu Highway and Mamalahoa Highway.

Grace Pacific, the largest general contractor in Hawaii, was acquired by A&B in 2013; on August 19, 2013, Grace Pacific Corporation changed its name to Grace Pacific LLC. (Grace Pacific)

Hawai‘i born Dick Grace continues a different family tradition. He is son of Guy Grace and grandson of Grace Brothers’ co-founder John Grace. Dick Grace is credited with creating California’s first cult Cabernet.

In 1976, the former Marine and then stockbroker, bought some Napa Valley land and planted 1,100-grape vines on the front acre. By 2000, they had 3.5 acres of vines, which yields roughly 500 cases of wine annually.

Caymus bottled the first Grace vintage (1978) with a Caymus label, noting the Grace Family Vineyards (some suggest that was the beginning of the Caymus Special Selection). In the mid-1980s, they doubled the size of the vineyard and started their own production in 1987.

Hawaiian Bitumuls-1950

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In this 2010 file photo, Grace Pacific Corp. workers repave Wilder Avenue near Punahou Street. (Star-Advertiser archive)

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Grace Family Vineyards

Grace Family label

Grace Family

September 25, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Wine Business

It was supposed to be a hobby, a small wine wholesaler representing maybe 5 different wineries.

As it turned out, I formed a wine wholesaling business and ended up representing over 40-wineries, with a focus on small and family-owned operations, mostly Napa Valley-based.

The company was called The Wine Collection; I represented small, hard to get wineries – all with great wine.

I had been “collecting” wine over prior years (that really means, drinking some, but storing more for future consumption – which I am enjoying now, by the way.)

As the passion turned to obsession, I wanted to somehow get into the business. By that time, I had been meeting with winemakers, getting back room tours and seeing (and tasting) the business.

Wholesaling seemed the logical option, since I wasn’t about to give up the real estate consulting business.

I found that folks in the wine business were a different breed – they shared an ‘abundance’ mentality, rather than one based on ‘scarcity.”.

Direct competitors were helping each other. They had a collective positive attitude, recognizing that a successful competitor also meant opportunities of success for themselves.

I liked the way they were thinking. These were people I wanted to be around.

Too often, people think someone else’s success means their own failure.

Life is not a zero-sum game.

Each of us has the opportunity to succeed. We just need the initiative and commitment to try.

Each can win, and it’s even OK if someone is more successful than you – that can even serve as a motivator.

Then, after about 5-years in the business, one day, out of the blue, I received a call from Paradise Beverages; they wanted to buy my business. Surprisingly, I talked with them and eventually sold.

I *loved* the wine business, why would I sell?

The answer came to me a few months later.

I took the opportunity to get into public service, first as Hawaiʻi County Deputy Managing Director, then as Director of Hawai‘i State Department of Land and Natural Resources (DLNR).

Having the responsibility of the wine business would not have let me do either of these.

It’s interesting how things work out.

The image is my company logo – a bottle and two glasses.

Wine is best when shared.

Good Friends, Good Food, Good Wine … waaay cool.

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Wine Bottle -Two Glasses

July 23, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Holding the Bottle for Later

A little deviation from the typical passage of time story … Before we really get into this, I want to address the not-so-fine line between “storing” and “collecting” wine.

Those who plan to eventually drink the stuff (like you and me) are wine storers. What we are doing is aging wine and letting it evolve for later drinking enjoyment.

Wine collectors may never drink their wines and either plan to resell it (check your local liquor laws prior to negotiating) or make empty boasts about the ‘names’ they have in the ‘cellar’. (OK, I sometimes refer to myself as a collector; but now you know I really mean I am a storer.)

People store wine because they like how an aged wine tastes. Bottled wine is like a living thing – it goes through changes over time. Aged wine generally softens in “mouth-feel” and flavors become more subtle and subdued.

Red wine usually starts with some tannins when young (an aging enhancer that gives the mouth puckering sensation when you drink a young wine.) After additional years in the bottle, the wine softens and the puckering sensation diminishes.

A good experiment to see how wine ages is to buy a case of wine and drink a bottle now, note what it is like, and store the rest. Periodically, drink the other bottles and experience the changes. (You really need to wait a few years for this. I have to agree, it is hard to do in the beginning – you are tempted to drink it all.)

If you find you like older wines better than younger ones, you could be on your way to an organized storing regime (your own tastes will determine the ‘right’ wine-age for you.)

Next time you go to the store to get a bottle for dinner, buy two – have one with dinner, put the other away for later. Keep this up and you will find you are becoming a serious wine storer.

I started storing wine on the floor of an interior closet. It was an out-of-the-way dark place with relatively constant, cooler temperature, (key components for better storage.) Lay the bottles flat to keep the corks moist.

In Waimea, I used to have an insulated and refrigerated wine storage room (~55° F) in Waimea (Actually, I had two rooms – and thousands of bottles.) Now, the bottles are stored in several wine refrigerators in the garage (a less expensive and more practical way to store wine in Hawaiʻi – Costco has several options.)

But, remember, you can start as I did, with boxes at the bottom of a closet.

And don’t get tense when the ritual at the table takes place.

You are at a restaurant, you have ordered your wine and your sommelier/waiter is about to return with the bottle. This is a time to anticipate the pleasure of the bottle soon to be opened, not a time for panic or despair.

The ‘ritual’ that follows the waiter’s arrival is unique among the beverages; only with wine do you get to test for quality prior to purchasing.

The cork pulling, presentation and wine sampling ceremony gives you an opportunity to verify that the wine is ‘good.’ It is not a tasting to see if you ‘like’ the wine; rather, it’s a confirmation that it’s the wine you ordered and some evidence of its condition.

Relax, this is a time for enjoyment — remember you are out to dinner — have a good time.

When the waiter presents the bottle and then pulls the cork he’ll offer it to you for your inspection and review.

Many people will next want to smell the cork – you do not have to smell the cork. A cork will usually smell like … cork. I usually just squeeze the cork to see if it is relatively firm.

The waiter will offer you a taste of the wine. Your nose is the best friend you have right now; if there is a serious problem with the wine, your friend will soon tell you.

Sniff, you really don’t have to taste. A ‘bad bottle’ smells like a bad bottle. If you think there is a problem, have the waiter confirm it; many restaurants will offer you another bottle for consideration.

Sometimes, I wish we would drop this ritual – it makes wine look like some elitist drink, rather than a beverage of choice.

Fortunately, the typical wine bottle is 750-ml (about 25 ounces) – around four glasses of wine; perfect for two to share over a meal.

Good Friends, Good Food, Good Wine … waaay cool.

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Wine-Holding the Bottle for Later

April 2, 2012 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Liquids Coordinator

The Ironman Triathlon World Championship is the initial and ultimate Swim – Bike – Run event.

This type of race (tri-sport) was stated in Hawai‘i and was essentially created for bragging rights by combining the 2.4-mile Waikiki Roughwater Swim, 112-miles of the Around-Oahu Bike Race, followed by the 26.2-mile run of the Honolulu Marathon.

It started on O‘ahu, but its home is now in West Hawai‘i on the Big Island.

For 13-years, I was its Director of Aid Stations (1990-2002.) We had about 4,000 volunteers and over 30 bike and run aid stations for the 1,200 contestants. We also had a cadre of coordinators to help oversee the operations.

Each year, I made a point of trying to add another coordinator to my list. It was more of a challenge and game to think up new ideas for “coordinators.”

This was not only to help spread out the work load, but, more importantly, it was a way to get some of the race swag to more people (coordinators received a special race shirt, had full access to all areas of the race and were invited to special parties.)

Speaking of parties, in the early years it was like pulling teeth to get coordinators to a race planning meeting.

Then, I finally got it.

I started to have wine tasting as a part of the planning meeting. Not only did everyone show up (early,) they all asked when the next party, errr … meeting was.

This led to my attempt to get a wine person listed as a coordinator for the race (adding coordinators was a big deal to the race (given cost, etc,) so nothing was taken for granted.)

After extensive explanation of the importance of proper hydration in the race, etc, etc, etc, ultimately, the race director agreed to add a “Liquids Coordinator” to the Aid Stations roster.

However, little did they know that these “liquids” were meant for us, not the contestants. We had a perfect person for the job, Jack Squires, who lives in Napa Valley and managed a cork company.

However, in offering Jack the job, little did he know I had devised an elaborate practical joke for his initiation.

I worked with the race Medical Director, Bob Laird, on “including” Jack into a series of medical meetings Bob has with his medical crew prior to the race. They had some seminars dealing with medical concerns related to hydration, etc.

Bob agreed to sign a letter I wrote inviting Jack to the seminars – we also included reams of medical reports and other paperwork for Jack to review prior to the meetings.

Little did Jack know that I arranged all this with Bob.

Jack diligently reviewed the paperwork prior to getting to Kona. I recall several phone conversations with Jack after the invitation, where he questioned whether he wanted to participate, or not.

When Jack arrived, we let him in on the joke and told him there were no seminars to attend and he really had only two rules to follow in the Aid Stations Operating Manual, (1) make sure there is plenty of wine for the Aid Stations Coordinators and (2) never forget rule #1.

Of course, we snuck in our own wine into various race parties (some were “alcohol-free.”) Carbo-loading party is Thursday night of race week – it also was the beginning of our major Aid Stations party.

We’d pre-party at Carbo; then, leave early to go to the Liquids Coordinator’s Party. Jack did waaay good with those – lots of Napa’s finest.

As a payback to the early prank I played on Jack, over the years those parties also turned into a series of gag-gifts giving to me.

I have to admit, I was particularly fond of the blow-up doll and shark hat given to me at those parties (I still have the hat, but ditched the doll.)

I had a call from Jack a few weeks ago. He is now vacationing on Moloka‘i. He returns home today and I will be meeting him at the Honolulu Airport, during a long layover on his return flight.

March 13, 2012 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Riddling

Riddling – no, it’s not telling tough, puzzling stories with veiled double meanings. It’s a process used in the making of sparkling wine (champagne – under the traditional “Methode Champenoise”.)

First, some very basics in wine making.

Grape juice has sugar; yeast is added and it ferments the juice, consuming the sugar – producing alcohol, carbon dioxide and heat. Made in unsealed containers, ‘still’ wine has no bubbles.

In making a sparkling wine, first the winemaker makes a still wine (no bubbles) and puts it into a champagne bottle.

Then, to make the bubbles, a small amount of sugar and yeast is added to the wine in the bottle.

A bottle cap (like a Coke bottle cap) seals the bottle and it is set aside to referment; this traps the carbon dioxide bubbles produced by the fermentation of the added sugar and yeast. This process also traps the dead yeast cells in the bottle.

After appropriate rest, it’s time to remove the yeast residue. The bottles are put in A-frame holders and the riddling process begins.

Over several weeks of periodic turning and tapping of the bottle, the yeast residue slowly moves toward the cap. (The video shows the riddling process.)

Now it’s time to disgorge the residue. The bottles are set upside down in a freezing brine solution to freeze the yeast sediment and form a “plug” near the cap. The bottles are turned upright, the cap is removed and the trapped gas shoots the frozen plug (with the spent yeast) out of the bottle.

Some extra sparkling wine tops off the bottle and a cork is added to seal the bottle.

The cork seal keeps the carbon dioxide in the sparkling wine (the wire cage over the cork prevents any possible premature decorking from the high pressure contained in the bottle.)

Chill your sparkling wine prior to serving.

To remove the cork, keep the cork pointed in a safe direction and remove the foil around the cork and wire cage (keep a thumb on the cork, just in case.)

With the cage removed, hold the cork in one hand (usually under a towel) and the base of the bottle in the other.

Turn the bottle, not the cork, slowly and gently. You want the cork to ease off with a soft “whoof” (with the cork in your hand,) not with a “pop” – and the cork sailing across the room.

Usually, a tall, thin sparkling wine glass is best to extend the life of the bubbles in the wine (the flat, broad glass allows the gas to escape faster.)