Milolii | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

Kauai nui moku lehua pane‘e lua i ke kai
Great Kauai of the lehua groves which seem to move two-by-two to the shore (Maly)

Kauai is the oldest of the eight main Hawaiian islands, and the island consists of one main extinct shield volcano estimated to be about 5-million years old, as well as numerous younger lava flows (between 3.65-million years to 500,000-years old). The island is characterized by severe weathering. (DLNR)

Historically, it was divided into several districts and political units, which in ancient times were subject to various chiefs—sometimes independently, and at other times, in unity with the other districts. These early moku o loko, or districts included Nāpali, Haleleʻa, Koʻolau, Puna and Kona (Buke Mahele, 1848; May.)

Although Nāpali, on the northwestern portion of the Island, is remote and difficult to access, many may not realize that for about a thousand years, Hawaiians lived along the Nāpali coast, farming, fishing and worshiping. There are irrigation ditches, terraced fields, house platforms, heiau (temples and shrines) and graves.”

“The design of these places took into account the natural topography and environment, and as a result these ancient sites often blend into the landscape. … The aspects of the land that Hawaiians sought for their sites – level ground, ocean access and availability of fresh water (hold true today.)” (DLNR)

The Nāpali valleys were intensively cultivated and the larger valleys such as Kalalau were densely inhabited. Taro was raised in terraced loʻi along the streams and other crops such as bananas, sugar cane and sweet potato were grown above the loʻi.

Other plants including wauke and mamaki for bark cloth and kukui nuts for food and oil for light were grown in the gulches. There were overland trails connecting many of these valleys and these areas were also accessed via canoe. (Handy; Maly)

Land use records from 1856-1857 show that lands in Kalalau, Pohakuao and Honopu valleys were being used for the cultivation of kalo, olona and kula. In the late-1800s Hanakoa and Hanakāpīʻai were also used for coffee cultivation. Kalalau was abandoned in 1919 and then used for cattle grazing in the 1920 for a limited time. (DLNR)

“The mountains along the shore, for eight or ten miles, are very bold, some rising abruptly from the ocean, exhibiting the obvious effects of volcanic fires; some, a little back, appear like towering pyramids”. (Hiram Bingham, 1822)

“There is a tract of country on the west coast of the island, through which no road is practicable.” (Bowser, 1880; Maly) “For twenty miles along the northwestern coast of Kauai there extends a series of ridges, none less than 800-feet high, and many nearly 1,500-feet, terminating in a bluff that is unrivalled in majesty. Except for a very narrow, dangerous foot-path, with yawning abysses on each side, this bluff is impassable.” (The Tourist’s Guide, Whitney, 1895)

The trail was originally built around 1860 (portions were rebuilt in the 1930s) to foster transportation and commerce for the residents living in the remote valleys.

Local labor and dynamite were used to construct a trail wide enough to accommodate pack animals loaded with oranges, taro and coffee being grown in the valleys. Stone paving and retaining walls from that era still exist along the trail.

It traverses 5-valleys over 11-miles, from Hāʻena State Park to Kalalau Beach, where it is blocked by sheer, fluted cliffs (pali;) it drops to sea level at the beaches of Hanakāpīʻai and Kalalau. The first 2 miles of the trail, from Hāʻena State Park to Hanakāpīʻai Beach, make a popular day hike. (DLNR)

“Innumerable streams, forming wonderful cascades as they leap hundreds of feet in their tempestuous decent, pour over this bluff in the rainy season, and become mist before they reach the ocean. Beyond the raging surge, unbroken by any protecting reef, dashes against the precipitous walls of rock.”

“(T)he tourist can see all that has been described from Wednesday morning until Saturday evening, when the steamer returns to Honolulu. If, however, he has time and the inclination to remain another week, there are many points of interest that can tempt him to make a longer stay, sights and scenes that can never be forgotten…” (The Tourist’s Guide, Whitney, 1895)

“Here, about mid-way of what the natives call the Parre (Pali,) we landed, where is an acre or two of sterile ground, bounded on one side by the ocean, and environed on the other by a stupendous rock, nearly perpendicular, forming at its base a semicircular curve, which meets the ocean at each end. In the middle of the curve, a stupendous rock rises to the height, I should say, of about 1,500-feet.” (Bingham)

“Like Kalalau they had a trail from the table land above over the top of Kamaile and zigzagging down through the cliffs some 3,000-feet to the valley below but even this trail was difficult. At one place you have to jump a crevice only three feet wide but it goes down straight like a chimney and if you slipped you would only fall 800 feet to the rocks below. They call it the Puhi.” (Knudsen, late-19th-century)

“(At) Nuʻalolo Kai the fishermen built and kept their canoes and the beach must have been lined with them for the landing is most always safe as the channel is narrow and a big reef to the north protecting it.” (Knudsen)

“During the Māhele, the King granted lands to the Kingdom (Government), the revenue of which was to support government functions. In the Nāpali District, the ahupuaʻa of Kalalau, Pohakuao, Honopu, Hanakāpīʻai and one-half of Hanakoa were granted to the Government Land inventory.”

“Portions of the lands that fell into the government inventory were subsequently sold as Royal Patent Grants to individuals who applied for them. The grantees were generally long-time kamaʻāina residents of the lands they sought… Thirty grants were sold in the Nāpali District to twenty-seven applicants; the lands being situated in Kalalau and Honopu.” (Hawaiian Government, 1887; Maly)

The upper region of the area was put into Territorial Forest Reserve (Nā Pali – Kona Forest Reserve) for protection in 1907. Even before that time, the concern for native forest prompted cattle eradication activities in this area during 1882 and 1890.

For most backpackers in good condition, hiking the 11-miles will take a full day. Camping permits for the Kalalau Trail are only issued for Kalalau Valley however the permits allow for 1-night camping (each way) at Hanakoa. Hanakoa and Kalalau, are the only two authorized areas for camping along the Kalalau trail.

Hanakoa is roughly 6 miles from the trailhead. Hikers are encouraged to stop/camp at Hanakoa if they possess a permit for Kalalau and need a break or anticipate bad weather. A stopover at Hanakoa, counts as one night, and therefore reduces the total number of nights permitted at Kalalau.

DLNR State Parks does not offer stand alone “hiking permits.” In order to hike from Haena State Park to Hanakāpī‘ai Beach or Hanakāpī‘ai Falls visitors need to purchase Parking and Entry Reservations for Hā‘ena SP. Make parking and entry reservations at www.gohaena.com.

In order to hike past Hanakāpī‘ai Beach along the Kalalalau Trail a valid camping permit for Napali Coast State Wilderness Park is required whether or not you choose to camp.

Other than hiking the coast, the only way to legally access shore areas in Nāpali Coast State Wilderness Park is by boat. Personal or rented kayaks and guided kayak tours may land at two permitted areas, and motorized raft tours take passengers on shore at Nu’alolo Kai. These zodiac tours enjoy a scenic view of the coast, with snorkeling, lunch and guided tour through an archaeological complex.

One of the nicest ways to see Nāpali Coast is by paddling down the coast. This activity is permitted only during the summer months, between May 15 and September 7. Unpredictable sea conditions make it potentially unsafe during the remainder of the year. The most popular way to travel by kayak is to start from the Ha’ena (eastern) end of the coast and pull out at Polihale Beach, on the western end of the coast. This takes advantage of the prevailing currents and trade winds

Day use landings are allowed at Miloliʻi during the summer (May 15 through Labor Day) without a permit. No other boat landings are permitted within the park. Kayak landings are prohibited at all other beaches in the park, including Hanakāpīʻai, Honopu and Nuʻalolo Kai. (This only summarizes some of DLNR’s rules; review and know the rules before you go.)

La ʻelima o Pepeluali (pēpē lua lī)
Waimaka helele (heʻe nei) i ke alanui
Paiki puʻolo paʻa i ka lima
(Maika pu olo aʻa ika lima)
Waimaka helele ʻi i ke alanui!
(Ae maka hele heʻe nui ike alanui

Hui:
Penei pepe ʻalala nei
(He nei pepe alaʻa nei)
He huʻi maʻeʻele kou nui kino
(Eʻu ima e hele kou lui kino)

Haʻina ʻia mai ana ka puana
He mele he inoa no Miloliʻi
(E mele he noe no Milolʻ`i)

The fifth day of February
Tears fell along the roadway
(Tears scattered in the street)
Bags and bundles held tightly
Tears fell along the roadway

Chorus:
The babies cry
(You there Baby Crying here)
Numbing to the body
(Your whole body will ache with chills)

Tell the refrain
(The refrain is told)
A name song for Miloliʻi
(A song, a name song for Miloliʻi)

“John D. Paris came to Hawaii in 1841 as a missionary. He was not originally supposed to come to Hawai‘i. He was on his way to the Oregon territory.”

“But the boat they were on brought some of the missionaries who were to join the mission here in Hawai‘i. They were going to drop them off, then proceed on to Oregon.”

“But they’d had an uprising in the Oregon territory, and the mission there was massacred and all the people were killed. So, with the unrest in the territory at that time, they prevailed upon him to stay in Hawaii, which he did.”

“And he was assigned to Ka‘u. He established the church – the Congregational church – there in Ka’u, and he stayed there until 1849.”

“At this time, his first wife had died, and he had two daughters. So, he felt, for the well-being of the daughters, he should go back to the United States. And he did.”

“However, while he was back there, he met a person that he had known, another woman, a Mary Carpenter. He was married to her. And then, they started back to Hawaii in 1851.”

“When he arrived here in the mission, they said the field in South Kona had deteriorated and they had nobody really there. So, they prevailed upon him to take the assignment in South Kona, which he did.”

“He was very active here. He built nine churches throughout Kona, mostly in South Kona, the first of which is the old church Kahikolu above Napo‘opo‘o”. (Billy Paris)

Another Paris church was at Miloli‘i.

“At Miloli‘i. We have some good people & some of whom we stand in doubt. A few living epistles known & read of all men — some whose light shines more dimly & through many clouds & others whose light is darkness…” (Paris, 1855; Maly) Paris built the Hau‘oli Kamana‘o Church.

The Miloli‘i community lies in the shadow of its most dominant geologic feature, the vast southwest slope of the 13,000-foot Mauna Loa volcano. Eruptive lava flows from Mauna Loa have continually influenced the area.

Since 1832, the volcano has erupted forty times. Eight flows have traversed the slopes into North and South Kona, and four reached the ocean (1859, 1919, 1926, and 1950). (PaaPonoMilolii)

Hawai‘i also has a long history of damaging tsunami. The earliest record of a tsunami is April 12, 1819, when a wave from Chile reached a height of 2-meters somewhere along the west coast of the Island of Hawai‘i. Since then, 112 tsunamis have been observed in Hawaii; 16 of these have resulted in significant damage. (World Data Center A; NAS)

On March 27, 1868, whaling ships at Kawaihae on the west coast of Hawaiʻi observed dense clouds of smoke rising from Mauna Loa’s crater, Mokuʻāweoweo, to a height of several miles and reflecting the bright light from the lava pit.

Slight shocks were felt at Kona on the west coast and Kaʻū on the flanks of the volcano. n the 28th, lava broke out on the southwest flank and created a 15-mile flow to the sea. Over 300 strong shocks were felt at Kaʻū and 50 to 60 were felt at Kona.

“Thursday, April 2d (1868,) at a few minutes past four, pm, the big earthquake occurred, which caused the ground around Kilauea to rock like a ship at sea.”

“At that moment, there commenced fearful detonations in the crater, large quantities of lava were thrown up to a great height; portions of the wall tumbled in. This extraordinary commotion, accompanied with unearthly noise and ceaseless swaying of the ground continued from that day till Sunday night, April 5th”. (Hawaiian Gazette, May 6, 1868)

A magnitude of 7 ¾ was estimated for this earthquake (by Augustine Furumoto in his February 1966 article on the Seismicity of Hawaii in the Bulletin of the Seismological Society of America) based on the extent of intensity reports. (Instrumental recordings, the usual basis for computing magnitudes, were not available at this early date.)

A tsunami struck the coast from Hilo to South Cape, being most destructive at Keauhou, Puna and Honuʻapo; a 10-foot-high wave carried wreckage inland 800-feet. Not a house survived at Honuʻapo. A stone church and other buildings were destroyed at Punaluʻu. Maximum wave heights were 65 feet, the highest observed on Hawaiʻi to date.

The Hauʻoli Kamana’o Church was pushed about 300 yards inland by the rushing sea, with little or no damage. The original location of the church is now underwater.

Written and oral history about and from Miloliʻi confirm there was no loss of life, missing children were led to safety in caves and rescued 5 days later. (Huapala)

Villagers later moved the church to its present-day site using palm trunks to roll it into place. Although other areas were destroyed, somehow Milolii was spared the misery experienced elsewhere.

The kupuna from other South Kona communities joined the village in thanksgiving, which lasted several days. The story of that day has become immortalized in the mele Lā ʻElima, sung by Israel Kamakawiwo‘ole and others but composed by Miloliiʻs Elizabeth Kuahuia (suggesting the day was February 5.) (PaaPonoMilolii)

La ʻElima sung by Diane Aki, music by Israel Kamakawiwo‘ole:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=v3kIsPWllbM

Follow Peter T Young on Facebook

Follow Peter T Young on Google+

Follow Peter T Young on LinkedIn

Follow Peter T Young on Blogger