Mahiole | Images of Old Hawaiʻi

August 27, 2025 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Mahiole v Tibetan Monk Hat

On a visit to the Hawaiian Islands, the Dalai Lama XIV “was presented with a traditional ceremonial hat [mahiole] (which he wore on his head mentioning that it seemed similar to Tibetan monastic hats)”. (Central Tibetan Administration)

The Tibetan monk’s hat was made of wool over a cotton interior; different sects had different colors (red or yellow). Hawaiians did not have wool or cotton cloth; they had ‘ie‘ie and ‘olonā fibers and feathers, typically, red and yellow to make their mahiole.

In Hawai‘i, feathered garments denoted status and as such could be worn only by the elite. The ‘ahu ‘ula (cape) and mahiole (helmets) were worn by the most powerful chiefs, or ali’i, and were sometimes given as gifts.

Mahiole were constructed of the aerial roots of the ʻieʻie vine, woven into a basketry frame. They were perfectly fitted to an individual, and protected the most sacred part of the body, the head.

A net of olonā fibers was laid over the framework, and feathers attached in bundles in the same way as for the cloaks. The featherwork starts from the bottom, so each new row conceals the quills of the feathers below. (Museum of New Zealand)

“It was probably the cherished armor of a king as noble as any of the Hawaiian line. and yet it is not all yellow, as one or two authors claim that the helmet of a king should always be: it is of red, as are the most of those which retain any of their original feathers, and not a single one of all is exclusively yellow.”

“It may seem strange that articles so highly valued should have so little history connected with them … it would add greatly to the interest which must ever attach to these beautiful examples of patient and long-continued work by a primitive people if we knew …”

“… what chief first ordered the construction, how long the hunters collected, how many years the deft fingers of the high chiefesses plaited the precious feathers into the network, what rejoicings at the completion of the long task, in what battle it first was worn, and then the changing ownership when murder, fraud, or theft transferred the garment …” (Brigham)

“Feathers were important symbols of power for Polynesians; in Hawai‘i, feathers were more highly prized than other types of property.”

“Feathers used for crafts were obtained from at least 24 bird species, however, the golden feathers of ‘ō‘ō and mamo birds made them primary targets for birdhunters; both birds became extinct by the late 1800s.”

“Feathers were utilized for many items, including ‘ahu‘ula [cloaks], mahiole [war helmets], and kāhili [standards]. Most garments utilized a considerable number of feathers; a cloak for Kamehameha consumed the golden feathers of 80,000 mamo birds.” (Perez)

“The feathers of birds were the most valued possessions of the ancient Hawaiians. The feathers of the mamo were more choice than those of the oo because of their superior magnificence when wrought into cloaks (ahu). The plumage of the i‘iwi, apapane and amakihi were made into ahu-ula, cloaks and capes, and into maho-ole, helmets.”

“The ahu-ula was a possession most costly and precious (makamae), not obtainable by the common people, only by the alii. It was much worn by them as an insignia in time of war and when they went into battle. The ahu-ula was also conferred upon warriors, but only upon those who had distinguished themselves and had merit, and it was an object of plunder in every battle.”

“Unless one were a warrior in something more than name, he would not succeed in capturing his prisoner nor in getting possession of the ahu-ula and feathered helmet of a warrior. These feathers had a notable use in the making of the royal battle-gods. They were also frequently used by the female chiefs in making or decorating a comb called huli-kua, which was used as an ornament in the hair.”

“The lands that produced feathers were heavily taxed at the Makahiki time, feathers being the most acceptable offering to the Makahiki-idol. If any land failed to furnish the full tale of feathers due for the tax, the landlord was turned off (hemo). So greedy were the alii after fathers that there was a standing order (palala) directing their collection.” (Malo)

There are many different kinds of mahiole that can be seen today found in museums around the world from the mahiole haka (short crested helmet,) mahiole pōheoheo (knobbed helmet,) mahiole haka kahakaha (striped short crest helmet,) spoked crescent helmet and others.

In Tibet, regarded as the manifestation of Bodhisattva of Wisdom, Jampelyan (Manjushri), Tsongkhapa’s followers built him the Ganden Monastery in Netang near Lhasa in 1409. After his death, Tsongkhapa’s students built a new school of Tibetan Buddhism based on his teachings and named it ‘Gelug’ which means virtuous tradition. (TibetPedia)

Among his known disciples were Gyaltsab (1364-1431), Jamchen Chojey (1355-1435), Khedrub (1385-1438), and Gendun Drupa (1391-1474). His disciples founded the great monasteries of the Gelug Sect such as Sera monastery of Lhasa, Drepung and Tashillhunpo monasteries, and introduced the tradition of wearing yellow hats to distinguish them from Sakya lamas, who wore red hats.

The Gelugpa Sect of Tibetan Buddhism, despite being the youngest, is the largest and most important school of thought. Having emerged in the 15th Century through the reforming efforts of Tsongkhapa, adherance to the Gelugpa sect is considered to be purest form of Tibetan Buddhism.

The sect achieved its peak in the 17th Century with huge support from Mongols and Tibetans inspired by the enigmatic 5th Dalai Lama. The Gelugpa Sect remained in power in the Central Tibetan Plateau until Chinese invasions of Tibet in the 1950s. (TibetPedia)

Hmmm …

September 3, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kia Manu

“Feathers from certain birds were made into the highly-prized feather work artifacts of the alii – capes, cloaks, helmets, kahili, etc.” (Holmes)

“The plumage-birds, like everything else in Hawaii, were the property of the alii of the land, and as such were protected by tabu; at least that was the case in the reign of Kamehameha I, and for some time before.”

“The choicest of the feathers found their way into the possession of the kings and chiefs, being largely used in payment of the annual tribute, or land tax, that was levied on each ahupuaa.”

“As prerequisites of royalty, they were made up into full length cloaks to be worn only by the kings and highest chiefs. Besides these there were capes, kipuka, to adorn the shoulders of the lesser chiefs and the king’s chosen warriors, called hulumanu, not to mention helmets, mahiole, a most showy head-covering.”

“The supply needed to meet this demand was great, without reckoning the number consumed in the fabrication of lei and the numerous imposing kahili that surrounded Hawaiian royalty on every occasion of state.”

“It is, therefore, no surprise when we learn that in the economic system of ancient Hawaii a higher valuation was set upon bird feathers (those of the mamo and o-o) than upon any other species of property, the next rank being occupied by whale-tooth, a jetsam-ivory called palaoa pae, monopolized as a prerequisite of the king.” (Emerson)

“Bird-catching and feather gathering were frequently done by commoners in their ahupua‘a. These were people who were also farmers and fishermen, and not full-time specialist bird-catchers.” (Cordy)

“[M]en and women … are joined together in great numbers in climbing into the forests to snare birds [kapili manu; kawili manu]. And the number of birds caught by a person in a day is from six to thirty. The bird being caught is the Oo of the forests.” (Kuokoa, Mar 17, 1866) The bird-catchers were known as lawai‘a manu (those people who ‘fished for birds’) or kia manu.

“Initial bird-catching or feather-gathering was probably conducted by commoners (maka‘āinana) of each community land (ahupua‘a) as part of their tribute to chiefs, rather than exclusively by a special class of chiefly retainers (bird-catchers).”

“Wives of bird-catchers sometimes accompanied their husbands and plucked, sorted and fastened together feathers. Women probably wove the helmet and cloak fibre frameworks and nets (of ‘ie‘ie and ‘olonā fibers).”

“Women may have attached the feathers to cloaks and helmets – manufactured the cloaks and helmets. These cloaks and helmets were probably made in chiefly households by skilled female retainers.”

“Capes (cloaks) and helmets were probably not sacred and kapu until the finished products became identified with certain wearers.” (Cordy)

“The methods used by one hunter in the capture of the birds differed from those used by another. They also varied somewhat, no doubt, in different district, on the different islands, at different seasons of the year and seen in the different islands, at different hours of the day.”

“There could be nothing stereotyped in the way the hunter of birds practiced his art. While the method might remain essentially the same, it was necessarily subject to a wide range of modification, to suit the skill and ingenuity of each hunter in his efforts to meet the habits and outwit the cunning of the birds themselves.” (Emerson)

“A bird-hunting campaign was not an affair to be lightly entered upon. Like every other serious enterprise of ancient Hawaii, a service of prayer and an offering to the gods and aumakuas, must first be performed….”

“Having selected a camp, he erects the necessary huts for himself and his family. His wife, who will keep him company in the wilderness, will not lack for occupation. It will be hers to engage in the manufacture of kapa from the delicate fibers of the mamake bark, perhaps to aid in plucking and sorting the feathers.”

While some suggest, “‘When you take a bird do not strangle it, but having plucked the few feathers for which it was sought, set it free that others may grow in their place.’ They inquired, ‘Who will possess the bird set free? You are an old man.’ He added, ‘My sons will possess the birds hereafter.’” (Brigham)

Perez, however, notes. “Some authors prefer to disingenuously believe that birdcatchers plucked only a few feathers from each bird, then ‘set it free to raise its family and grow a new crop of feathers.’” (Perez)

This is substantiated in the first writing of Hawai‘i; Captain Cook’s Journal notes, “Amongst the articles which they brought to barter this day, we could not help taking notice of a particular sort of cloak and cap, which, even in countries where dress is more particularly attended to, might be reckoned elegant.”

“The first are nearly of the size and shape of the short cloaks worn by the women of England, and by the men in Spain, reaching to the middle of the back, and tied loosely before.”

“The ground of them is a network upon which the most beautiful red and yellow feathers are so closely fixed that the surface might be compared to the thickest and richest velvet, which they resemble, both as to the feel and the flossy appearance. …”

At the time of ‘Contact’, it was clear that when collection feathers birds were killed, as Cook’s Journal goes on to note, “We were at a loss to guess from whence they could get such a quantity of these beautiful feathers; but were soon informed as to one sort …”

“… for they afterward brought great numbers of skins of small red birds for sale, which were often tied up in bunches of twenty or more, or had a small wooden skewer run through their nostrils.”

“At the first, those that were bought consisted only of the skin from behind the wings forward; but we afterward got many with the hind part, including the tail and feet. The first, however, struck us at once with the origin of the sable formerly adopted, of the birds of paradise wanting legs, and sufficiently explained that circumstance. … (Cook’s Journal, Jan 1778)

June 2, 2024 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Feathers

“Feathers were important symbols of power for Polynesians; in Hawai‘i, feathers were more highly prized than other types of property.”

“Unless one were a warrior in something more than name he would not succeed in capturing his prisoner nor in getting possession of the ahu-ula and feathered helmet of a warrior. These feathers had a notable use in the making of the royal battle-gods. They were also frequently used by the female chiefs in making or decorating a comb called huli-kua, which was used as an ornament in the hair.”

In the first writing of Hawai‘i, Captain Cook’s Journal notes, “Amongst the articles which they brought to barter this day [Jan 21, 1778], we could not help taking notice of a particular sort of cloak and cap, which, even in countries where dress is more particularly attended to, might be reckoned elegant.”

“The first are nearly of the size and shape of the short cloaks worn by the women of England, and by the men in Spain, reaching to the middle of the back, and tied loosely before.”

“The manner of varying the mixture is very different, some having triangular spaces of red and yellow alternately; others a kind of crescent, and some that were entirely red, had a yellow border which made them appear, at some distance, exactly like a scarlet cloak edged with gold lace.”

“The brilliant colours of the feathers, in those that happened to be new, added not a little to their fine appearance, and we found that they were in high estimation with their owners, for they would not, at first part with one of them for anything we offered, asking no less a price than a musket.”

“Capes (cloaks) and helmets were probably not sacred and kapu until the finished products became identified with certain wearers.” (Cordy)

Vancouver notes in his journal, “Tamaahmaah (Kamehameha) conceiving this might be his last visit, presented me with a handsome cloak formed of red and yellow feathers, with a small collection of other native curiosities; and at the same time delivered into my charge the superb cloak that he had worn on his formal visit at our arrival.”

“This cloak was very neatly made of yellow feathers; after he had displayed its beauty, and had shewn me the two holes made in different parts of it by the enemy’s spears the first day he wore it, in his last battle for the sovereignty of this island, he very carefully folded it up, and desired, that on my arrival in England, I would present it in his name to His Majesty, King George …”

“… and as it had never been worn by any person but himself, he firmly enjoined me not to permit any person whatever to throw it over their shoulders, saying, that it was the most valuable thing in the island of Owhyhee (Hawai‘i), and for that reason he had sent it to so great a monarch, and so good a friend, as he considered the King of England.”

“This donation I am well persuaded was dictated by his own grateful heart, without having received the least hint or advice from any person whatever, and was the effect of principles, highly honorable to more civilized minds. The cloak I received, and gave him the most positive assurance of acting agreeably with his directions.” (Vancouver, March 1793)

August 10, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

George Washington’s Mahiole

“The little ship ‘Columbia’ of Boston, only eighty-three feet long, was the first American vessel to circumnavigate the globe, and a few years later was also the first to visit our Northwest Coast.”

“This last voyage was perhaps the most famous one ever undertaken by an American merchant ship, and its consequences were everlasting. A young American seaman first called attention to the importance of the fur trade of the Northwest.”

“He endeavored to influence English and New York merchants, but with no success until he reached Boston, where he succeeded in interesting six men …”

“… Joseph Boswell, a recent graduate of Harvard; Bulfinch, the architect; Captain John Derby of Salem; Samuel Brown; Captain Crowell Hatch of Cambridge; and J. W. Pintard of New York. These six enterprising merchants subscribed $50,000, which was a very large sum in those days.”

“The little ‘Columbia,’ which was built on the North River in Scituate, where over a thousand seagoing ships have been launched, was selected for the long voyage, and as her consort an even smaller craft, a ship of ninety tons, called the ‘Lady Washington,’ was chosen.”

“The commander of the ‘Columbia’ was John Kendrick of Wareham, the captain of the other vessel being Robert Gray of Boston. To the latter was really due the success of the expedition.”

“The State and Federal Governments were especially interested in the undertaking, and many special medals were struck off and distributed at the ports where the vessels touched.”

“Hundreds of these medals were later found among the Spaniards in South America, throughout the Sandwich Islands, and Oregon.”

“The two vessels sailed from Boston on September 30, 1787, amid a tremendous demonstration. They encountered heavy gales off Cape Horn, and only the determination of Kendrick and Gray enabled them to reach their destination.”

“The smaller of the two, the ‘Lady Washington,’ arrived first, and while waiting, Captain Gray and his brave crew were attacked by the Indians, and some of his men killed. This place was therefore named ‘Murderers’ Harbour.’”

“The ‘Columbia’ arrived a week later, her crew suffering frightfully from scurvy, the voyage having consumed one whole year.” (Old Shipping Days in Boston, 1918)

“When the expedition arrived on the northwest coast, captain Kendrick turned his back on his country—prevailed on a number of the seamen to join him, took possession of the sloop Washington, and refused to return. Capt. Robert Gray then took command of the Columbia, and continued the voyage.” (Niles National Register, November 25, 1837)

“The cargo of hardware, tools, toys, beads, etc, brought from Boston was gradually exchanged during the long winter for furs, which were taken to Canton, the two captains then exchanging commands. The proceeds of the skins were used to purchase tea, which was brought back to Boston.” (Old Shipping Days in Boston, 1918)

“On his return (Gray) called at the different clusters of islands in the South seas, and among the rest at the Sandwich, where, as well as in other places, he met with the most friendly attentions from the natives, go at Owyhee, where their king resided.” (Niles National Register, November 25, 1837)

“The ‘Columbia’ … spent three weeks at the Hawaiian Islands, laying in a store of fruits, yams, potatoes, and hogs. They were kindly received there”. (Porter)

“Such was the confidence placed in captain Gray, both by king and people, that they permitted him to bring away with him to Boston their crown prince (Attoo), fully relying on his promise to return him to them.” (Niles National Register, November 25, 1837)

“Gray’s discoveries of Gray’s Harbor and the Columbia River were witnessed by Attoo before the Hawaiian completed his circumnavigation on Columbia in 1792.” (Mockford)

“From China the ship, loaded with teas, sailed for home by way of the Cape of Good Hope. In August of 1790 she dropped anchor in Boston harbor, the first American vessel to circumnavigate the earth.”

“The ship was absent upwards of three years, and had not been heard from for a large portion of the time, when, in the summer of 1790, in a fine afternoon, we had just arrived in Boston, from Worcester, when a strange ship, bearing the stars and stripes of our country, arrived abreast of the castle, and fired a national salute, which was promptly returned by that fortress.”

“The firing was distinctly heard and seen from Boston, but no one could imagine what ship it was, bearing our country’s flag, and doing and receiving such high honor. The inhabitants were all in motion, and coining to the long wharf by thousands; in the interim, the ship was recognized, the artillery were ordered out.”

“As she came to anchor off the end of the wharf, the delighted multitudes rent the air with joyful acclamations, while salvos of artillery shook the neighboring hills, and the astonished people hurried into the city to join in the general joy.”

“The ship having returned the salute of the city, the custom house barge was manned, when the venerable general Lincoln, collector of the port, with the owners of the Columbia, repaired on board …”

“… and after bidding a hearty welcome to captain Gray and his princely passenger, they all returned to the wharf together, when the air again rang, with loud acclaim, and the artillery again poured forth its thunder.”

“The prince, who was an Apollo in personal symmetry and beauty, was dressed in a helmet of the ancient roman form, covered with small feathers of the most beautiful plumage, which glittered in the sun …”

“… while on his body he wore a close dress, not visible except the sleeve, and over it a large and flowing robe, in the form of the toga, made of cloth, covered with feathers precisely like the helmet. In this splendid costume, he took the arm of captain Gray, and a procession being formed, they marched to governor Hancock’s, who sent his adjutant general to bid them welcome.”

“After a residence of some months, the ship was refitted, and, with the same commander, returned the prince in safety to his country and friends (“The Hawaiian, Jack Attoo, went back as cabin-boy.” (Porter)) …”

“… from thence sprung all that friendly intercourse between those happy islanders and the United States, to whom they are indebted for civilization and the useful arts which are making such progress among them. (Niles National Register, November 25, 1837)

“(T)hat helmet of the ancient roman form, covered with small feathers” (Mahiole) was given to (Governor John Hancock) of Massachusetts, and it was then given to President George Washington. (Peabody Museum)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2oRFhujeu5o&t=19s

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Mahiole-feather helmet-Gray-Washington-WC

May 22, 2018 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

500,000 Feathers

In the dawn hours of January 18, 1778, on his third expedition, British explorer Captain James Cook on the HMS Resolution and Captain Charles Clerke of the HMS Discovery first sighted what Cook named the Sandwich Islands (that were later named the Hawaiian Islands.)

Cook continued to sail along the coast searching for a suitable anchorage. His two ships remained offshore, but a few Hawaiians were allowed to come on board on the morning of January 20, before Cook continued on in search of a safe harbor.

On the afternoon of January 20, 1778, Cook anchored his ships near the mouth of the Waimea River on Kauai’s southwestern shore. After a couple of weeks, there, they headed to the west coast of North America.

After the West Coast, Alaska and Bering Strait exploration, on October 24, 1778 the two ships headed back to the islands; they sighted Maui on November 26, circled the Island of Hawaiʻi and eventually anchored at Kealakekua Bay on January 17, 1779.

At the time, the Hawaiian Islands were divided into four kingdoms: (1) the island of Hawaiʻi under the rule of Kalaniʻōpuʻu, who also had possession of the Hāna district of east Maui; (2) Maui (except the Hāna district,) Molokai, Lānaʻi and Kahoʻolawe, ruled by Kahekili; (3) Oʻahu, under the rule of Kahahana; and (4) Kauai and Niʻihau, Kamakahelei was ruler.

Kalaniʻōpuʻu was on the island of Maui. Kalaniʻōpuʻu returned to Hawaiʻi and met with Cook on January 26, 1779, exchanging gifts, including an ʻahuʻula (feathered cloak) and mahiole (ceremonial feather helmet.) Cook also received pieces of kapa, feathers, hogs and vegetables.

In return, Cook gave Kalaniʻōpuʻu a linen shirt and a sword; later on, Cook gave other presents to Kalaniʻōpuʻu, among which one of the journals mentions “a complete Tool Chest.”

“For Native Hawaiians, the ʻahuʻula, mahiole, and all other featherwork were reserved exclusively for the use of their ali‘i (royalty), symbolizing their chiefly divinity, rank and power.”

“It embodied the life essence of a thriving abundant environment which are the telltale signs of leadership, as it takes a healthy forest ecosystem to produce enough bird feathers and cordage to make these regal pieces.” (OHA)

The construction of featherwork in ancient Hawai‘i required an incredible amount of labor and craftsmanship. The ‘ahu‘ula of Kalaniʻōpuʻu has 500,000 feathers (lashed one-by-one) from about 20,000 birds.

“Skilled trappers caught the birds by employing various techniques such as snaring their prey midair with nets, or using decoy birds to lure them onto branches coated with a sticky substance.”

“They often harvested only a few feathers from each bird before releasing them back into the wild so they could produce more feathers. Skilled workers belonging to the aliʻi class crafted the olonā cordage backing, a netting used as the foundation for the cloak, onto which the bundles of feathers were attached, creating bold designs.”

“After the ‘ahu‘ula and mahiole left on Cook’s ship, both were taken to England and passed through the hands of various museum owners and collectors.”

“They eventually came under the care of the Lord St Oswald, who unexpectedly presented his entire collection in 1912 to the Dominion Museum in New Zealand, the predecessor of Te Papa Tongarewa. The cloak and helmet have been in the national collection ever since.”

“In 2013, discussions began among the Bishop Museum, Te Papa Tongarewa, and OHA to bring these treasures back to Hawai‘i, culminating in this significant homecoming.” (OHA)

In a partnership between the Office of Hawaiian Affairs (OHA), The National Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa, and Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, the ‘ahu‘ula and mahiole of Kalani‘ōpu‘u came back in March 2016 and are displayed at Bishop Museum on long-term loan.

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