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October 26, 2015 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Prince and Princess de Bourbon

King Kalākaua was the first ruling Monarch to tour of the world; in doing so, he made good on his motto, and motivation, proclaimed at his accession, ‘Hoʻoulu Lahui!’- (Increase the Nation!)

“Since the concert of the morning stars, or the appearance of man on the globe, sovereigns have done many great and many small things; but not one of them, even in these later days, has had the audacity or pluck to circumnavigate this little planet.” (Armstrong)

“A deep feeling of anxiety and interest pervaded the community on the eve of the departure of the King, and all classes and races strove to outvie each other in their expressions of good-will and affection, in bidding adieu to His Majesty.” (PCA)

“(T)he King goes but for the good of his people, to make the country richer by getting more capital and people to come this way. … So the King this time takes with him a Commissioner to enquire into and bring other people of brown skins here to re-people these isles.” (Kapena)

The King and others were concerned about the declining Hawaiian population in the Islands. “The King himself would be only so in name if he had no people to rule. The King will not rest until his hope of re-peopling these isles has been fulfilled.” (Kapena)

Leaving January 20, 1881 on the Oceanic and arriving back in the Islands October 29, 1881 (nine months and nine days later,) Kalākaua travelled to the US, Japan, China, Siam, Burma, India, Egypt, Italy, Belgium, Germany, Austria-Hungary, France, Spain, Portugal and the United Kingdom.

Kalākaua wanted to gain recognition for his kingdom and learn how other monarchs ruled. He believed the best way to conclude diplomatic relations with foreign countries was to understand their customs. He met with the officials of the Austrian Empire, in the absence of the Emperor.

For the most part, the King travelled incognito (his trip was claimed to have “no official significance.”) At times his unannounced arrivals caused some confusion (and missed opportunities to meet with leaders (who were out of town.))

However, he was greeted and handled with stately attendance. He was royally entertained and decorated with the highest orders; armies were paraded before him and banquets held in his honor.

A few years later, another royal party toured the world, with a short visit in the Islands, “Among the passengers on the steamer Australia, which arrived yesterday from Honolulu, were Count de Bardi, an Austrian prince of royal blood, and his wife, the Countess de Bardi. They are accompanied by the Baroness Hertling, Count Luchesi, Count Zileri and Baron Heydebrand, all of the Austrian nobility.”

“Prince Henry of Bourbon, or Count de Bardi, is thirty-six years of age and is a son of the Duke of Parma, and is closely related to the royal family of Austria. The Countess is a daughter of HRH Prince Miguel of Braganza.”

“The royal pair, accompanied, by their retinue, started about two years ago on a tour around the world and are now on their way home. Since leaving home they have traveled in Africa, India, Borneo, Java, China, Japan and other places.”

“The Count did considerable hunting, shooting ten or twelve wild bison in Borneo and five tigers in Java. The party spent some time in Japan, visiting the principal points of interest. Baron Heydebrand is the Count’s chamberlain, and has charge of the distinguished party during their travels.”

“They will remain in San Francisco at the Palace Hotel four or five days, and will then go to New York over the Burlington route via Niagara Falls.”

“While at Honolulu King Kalākaua save a grand ball at the royal palace in their honor. The palace was beautifully decorated with festoons of Chinese lanterns, so thickly that it appeared to be almost covered with them.” (Daily Alta California, November 2, 1889)

“There was a great crush of people in the throne room and main hall at the height of the reception, yet the procession past the royal dais flowed on in remarkably good order, the return stream of observed ones mingling with the throng of observers round the apartment. The band played throughout the ceremony.”

“Every approach to the palace presented a scene of gorgeous resplendence. The illumination of the building and grounds has never been surpassed in style or degree. From basement to battlements on every side the noble pile was profusely hung with rows of colored lanterns, festooned and straight but never departing from artistic symmetry.”

“These myriad lights were interspersed with the glittering rays from the permanent rose-shaped incandescent lamps on the outer walls, every door and window poured forth a welcoming glow from the electric crystal chandeliers richly bestowed within.”

“The paths in the grounds were lined, the trees and shrubbery decked, with hundreds of colored lanterns closely ranged in right lines and curves, all with such consummate art as to yield an effect of exquisite harmony to every point of vision.”

“Inside the palace the decorations were simple but in good taste. In the throne room on either side of the dais were potted palms, pyramids of roses were at the bases of the large mirrors, and a grand feather kahili stood at each side of the throne canopy.”

“An immense pyramid of plants with floral insets made a strikingly beautiful object opposite the grand staircase in the middle of the main hall. At the head of the stairs under a permanent mirror appeared the device of a shield rimmed with white flowers and bearing across the face in red flowers the greeting, ‘Aloha.’”

“This piece was universally admired. Bunches of ferns and flowers were disposed on the hallway walls between the statuary niches. The dining-room and the blue room, besides their usual adornments of curios and plate, were further beautified with bloom and foliage artistically composed and arranged.”

“The Prince and Princess de Bourbon and party were seemingly intensely gratified with the entertainment. Mingling freely with their fellow guests, many of whom were is privately presented to them, they chatted with animation to individuals and groups.”

“They wore respectively the decorations conferred on them by the King during the day. The amiable princess remarked to the Chamberlain her delight with the event, comparing the whole scene to ‘fairyland.’ His Majesty the King expressed his great pleasure, to a Bulletin reporter at the palace with the enthusiastic response made by resident society to the invitation to do honor to the distinguished visitors.” (Daily Bulletin, October 24, 1889)

“An unusually large number of people assembled at the Oceanic wharf on Friday to see the SS Australia leave for San Francisco. The whole Circus outfit and troupe, as well as the Katie Putnam theatrical troupe, left by this vessel.”

“The Prince and Princess de Bourbon and suite, and Princes Kawānanakoa and Kalanianaʻole were also passengers. The Hawaiian band played appropriate selections, and the steamship left the wharf a few minutes after 12 noon with a very full complement of passengers.” (Hawaiian Gazette, October 29, 1889) (The image shows ʻIolani Palace at about the time the Austrians visited in 1889.)

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Iolani Palace, circa 1889
Iolani Palace, circa 1889

Filed Under: Ali'i / Chiefs / Governance, Prominent People Tagged With: Hawaii, King Kalakaua, Prince Henry of Bourbon, Count de Bardi

October 25, 2015 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Churchill

“Among the many tales of shipwreck on the Pacific few are more thrilling than that of the rescue of the captain and crew of the schooner Churchill on French Frigate shoals”. (Star-bulletin, October 31, 1917)

Whoa … let’s look back.

In 1850, Captain Asa Meade Simpson, a Maine shipbuilder, came west, drawn by the California Gold Rush. In 1855, he arrived at the “north bend” of the Coos Bay estuary, Oregon. Recognizing the value of the region’s coal and timber, he set up a sawmill; the businesses expanded and turned out a variety of wood products, from fruit boxes to fancy doors.

He also established a shipyard (the first in Oregon) and hired master craftsmen to build ships that would carry lumber products worldwide. Simpson’s son, Louis Jerome (LJ) Simpson, arrived in North Bend in 1899. He purchased the adjacent undeveloped town site of Yarrow, which he merged with his father’s land in 1903 to create the City of North Bend.

From 1859 to 1903, at this location he would have 56 ‘world class’ tall ships built for the growing lumber empire. (Tall Ships SFO) Large wooden schooners were the economic mainstay of American shipping between the Civil War period and World War I. They were the sailing workhorses of the Pacific. (NOAA)

One of them was the Churchill.

Launched on March 4, 1900, the 178-foot, 600-ton four-masted schooner Churchill was built by the Simpson Lumber Co for their own account. Later, the Churchill was owned by Charles Nelson & Co of San Francisco.

Then, the fateful voyage.

“The Churchill left Port Angeles on May 27 with a cargo of lumber for Sydney. After discharging at Sydney the vessel proceeded to Tongata, where a cargo of about 800 tons of copra was placed aboard. Her destination from there was Seattle.”

(Copra is the dried meat of the coconut. Coconut oil is extracted from it and has made copra an important agricultural commodity. Also coconut cake is extracted mainly used as feed for livestock.)

On board the Churchill were Captain Charles Granzow, his two sons Carl (age 7) and Loftus (age 14,) and nine other crew members (Chief Officer: Henry Anderson, Second Officer: Fred Wilson, Carpenter John Wessick, Seamen: A. Anderson, William Miller, Daniel Pinzoin, Pedro Romos, Sterling Jones and Hugo Munch.)

“Capt. Granzow has been master of the schooner Churchill for the past three or four years. She has called at Honolulu on infrequent voyages, but been chiefly in the lumber trade between the Northwest and Australia.”

“The Churchill was 27 days out from Nukualofa, Tongata, when she drifted upon a reef of the French Frigate shoals. This was after winds had carried her westward from her course and following a calm of several days. ‘Currents after that was the only reason for the wreck,’ declared Mate Anderson”.

Fortunately for them, some folks from the Islands were nearby fishing from the Makaiwa.

“The power sampan Makaiwa left Honolulu on Monday, October 22. In the party were Harold W Rice; Lieutenant KE Ferris, USN, formerly captain of the Kestrel; Arthur Rice, HL Tucker and the captain and crew of the sampan, as follows: William Feuerpeil, crew captain; Johnny Vasconcellos, chief engineer; Manuel Deponte, second engineer; Levi Faunfata, a Samoan seaman.”

“Arthur Rice, who had intended only to fish as far as Kauai and leave the party there, carried out his plan, so he was not with the sampan when it turned westward from the Hawaiian group. The party had fished on the way to Kauai and also after starting for Bird Island.”

Rice and the rest of the party “were bound for the Western Islands on a fishing trip when they sighted the Churchill … slowly pounding to pieces.”

“Captain Granzow told the Honolulans that the night before, that is the night of October 25, the schooner had struck the big reef about 9 o’clock. The vessel seemed to come off after striking, but then went on again and pounded heavily all night.”

“The Churchill was sighted in acute distress on the morning of Friday, October 26, by the fishermen and the sampan immediately went to her rescue. … Had it not been for the timely arrival of the sampan at French Frigate shoals, Captain Granzow and his men believe they would surely have perished by fire, water or sharks.” (Star Bulletin, October 30, 1917)

“That he was true to all the traditions of the sea is the tale told of Capt Charles Granzow, master of the wrecked schooner Churchill, by the members of his crew.”

“Unable or unwilling to relate their own experiences these sailors of the destroyed schooner tell how Capt. Granzow elected to remain aboard the doomed vessel while the only remaining hope of surviving the wreck was made by five others in a small lifeboat.”

“But while Capt. Granzow with other volunteers remained aboard the vessel as the water rose about her hulk he ordered his two sons into the lifeboat which he placed in command of his first mate, Henry Anderson, while they attempted a landing on the only promontory not washed by the ocean’s waves.” (All were saved)

In October of 2005, the Pacific Islands Fisheries Science Center’s Coral Reef Ecosystem Division reported a potential shipwreck site to NOAA’s Maritime Heritage Program after spotting anchors and scattered rigging at French Frigate Shoals.

In 2007, a team of NOAA maritime archaeologists were able to begin to investigate the site. The 2007 survey uncovered clues that may help solve the mystery of the unidentified shipwreck. Diagnostic artifacts at the site, anchors, rigging, pumps and deck equipment, all correspond to the Churchill’s size and construction.

In August of 2008, a team of NOAA maritime archaeologists returned to the site to complete documentation and interpretation of the shipwreck site. (Lots of information here is from NOAA, Oregon Historical Society and Star Bulletin, October 30 and 31, 1917)

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Churchill-NOAA
Churchill-NOAA
North_Bend_Docks
North_Bend_Docks
North_Bend_Mill
North_Bend_Mill
Simpson-Loco-North-Bend
Simpson-Loco-North-Bend
Tug_Tows_Churchill_Loaded_with_Lumber for Australia-NorthBend
Tug_Tows_Churchill_Loaded_with_Lumber for Australia-NorthBend
Ship-wrecked_crew-Churchill-SB-Oct_31,_1917
Ship-wrecked_crew-Churchill-SB-Oct_31,_1917
Churchill_02_noaa_casserley
Churchill_02_noaa_casserley
Churchill_05_noaa_casserley
Churchill_05_noaa_casserley
Churchill_06_noaa
Churchill_06_noaa

Filed Under: Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks Tagged With: Hawaii, Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, Papahanaumokuakea Marine National Monument, French Frigate Shoals, Shipwreck, Churchill

October 24, 2015 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

‘Hilo Walk of Fame’

It started on October 24, 1933 …

Filmmaker Cecil B DeMille was in Hilo filming scenes for ‘Four Frightened People.’ The Hilo Park Commission asked him and some of the actors from the film (Mary Boland, William Gargan, Herbert Marshall’s wife (Edna Best Marshall) and Leo Carillo) to plant trees to commemorate their visit. (Pahigian)

Shortly after (October 29, 1933,) George Herman ‘Babe’ Ruth added a tree; he was in town for an exhibition baseball game against the Waiākea Pirates. In an earlier game in Honolulu, “Babe Ruth hit the first ball pitched to him for a home run when the visiting major league players defeated the local Wanderers here yesterday, 5 to 1.” (UP, El Paso Herald, October 23, 1933)

He and the visiting All Stars weren’t as fortunate in Hilo. “One of the most entertaining games ever played in Hilo was a 1933 exhibition matchup between the Waiākea Pirates and an all-star team featuring Babe Ruth. Ruth dazzled the crowd with a pair of homers, including one that traveled 427 feet. The Pirates still prevailed, 7-6.” (Honolulu Star-Advertiser, March 15, 2013)

A little later, US President Franklin D Roosevelt (FDR) was visiting the islands and arrived in Hilo on July 25, 1934 he planted a tree, too. FDR traversed the Pacific aboard the USS Houston, debarked at both the ports of Hilo and Honolulu, and stayed in the Islands for several days (July 24-28, 1934) to tour both cultural landmarks and military areas.

The visit was a stopover on a cruise starting July 1, 1934 at Annapolis going on to Portland, with stops in the Bahamas, Haiti, Puerto Rico, St Thomas, St Croix, Columbia, Panama, Cocos Island and Clipperton Island.

“Commemorating King George V’s silver jubilee (grandfather of the present Queen Elizabeth II,) a banyan tree has been planted here near the tree planted last year to honor President Roosevelt’s visit here.” (AP, Evening Independent, July 8, 1935.)

Another notable planter was Amelia Earhart. “Over the Christmas holiday, Amelia Earhart and George Putnam, along with Mr. and Mrs. Paul Mantz, arrived in Honolulu on December 27 (1934,) having sailed on the Matson liner SS Lurline. … The group spent two weeks vacationing in Hawaiʻi.”

“Five days after planting the banyan tree, she hopped off from Honolulu in her Lockheed Vega to cross 2,408-miles of Pacific Ocean. Eighteen hours and sixteen minutes later, Amelia and her red Vega, ‘Old Bessie, the Fire Horse,’ made a perfect landing at Oakland Airport at 1:31 pm … the very first person, man or woman, to fly solo between Hawaii and the Mainland and the first civilian airplane to carry a two-way radio.” (Plymate)

The next year, on November 15, 1935, Attorney Gonzalo and Adela Manibog, prominent Hilo community leaders in the 1930s and 40s, were given the honor of planting a banyan tree commemorating the birth of a new nation, the Philippine Commonwealth (now a republic.)

President Franklin D Roosevelt signed into law the Tydings-McDuffie Act creating the semi-autonomous government of the Philippine Commonwealth, a US protectorate ceded by Spain after the Spanish American war in 1898. (Manibog)

David McHattie Forbes, botanist, ethnologist, sugar plantation manager and explorer on the island of Hawaiʻi planted a tree. He served as the first district forester of South Kohala in 1905, and twenty years later was appointed a judge in Waimea. He was the discoverer in 1905 of what became known as the Forbes Collection, the greatest collection of Polynesian artifacts ever found.

William Linn (Lincoln) Ellsworth, was an American explorer, engineer, and scientist who led the first trans-Arctic (1926) and trans-Antarctic (1935) air crossings – he added a tree to the growing number.

Later, “Louis (Satchmo) Armstrong planted a tree … in the ‘living memorial’ Banyan grove in Hilo, Hawaii. Reviving a custom dormant since 1952, the musician spaded earth around the roots of the Louis Armstrong tree. It stands a few feet from the Amelia Earhart tree, planted by the aviatrix who vanished on a Pacific flight in 1937.” (Park City Daily News, May 7, 1963)

The tree then-Senator Richard Nixon of California planted in 1952 was destroyed. His wife Pat returned to Hilo in 1972, the year of his presidential re-election, and planted two banyans, one replacing his senatorial specimen (the sign incorrectly notes 1962) and another in her own honor.

Initially, eight trees were planted in October 1933; there have been over 50-trees planted at what is now known as Banyan Drive on the Waiākea peninsula, traditionally known as Hilo-Hanakāhi.

At the time, Banyan Drive was a crushed coral drive through the trees. Forty trees were planted between 1934 and 1938, and five more trees were planted between 1941 and 1972. In 1991, a tree lost to a tsunami was replaced. (Hawaiʻi County)

Trees were typically planted by or for notable politicians, entertainers, religious leaders, authors, sports figures, business people, adventurers and local folks.

The trees now represent the ‘Stories of Incredible People,’ as described in a book by Ted Coombs of Kurtistown, Hawaiʻi.

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Banyan Drive Tree-Cecil_B_DeMille
Banyan Drive Tree-Cecil_B_DeMille
Banyan Drive Tree-FDR
Banyan Drive Tree-FDR
Banyan Drive Tree-FDR
Banyan Drive Tree-FDR
Banyan Drive Tree-Mr & Mrs Otto Rose, 1935
Banyan Drive Tree-Mr & Mrs Otto Rose, 1935
Banyan Drive Tree-Richard_Nixon
Banyan Drive Tree-Richard_Nixon
First Lady Pat Nixon given 'the key to the city' of Hilo, Hawaii, August 31, 1972 - planted 2-trees that day
First Lady Pat Nixon given ‘the key to the city’ of Hilo, Hawaii, August 31, 1972 – planted 2-trees that day
Banyan Drive Tree-King George V
Banyan Drive Tree-King George V
Banyan Drive Tree-Babe_Ruth
Banyan Drive Tree-Babe_Ruth
Babe Ruth and Waiakea Baseball Team-Oct_29,_1933-StarAdv
Babe Ruth and Waiakea Baseball Team-Oct_29,_1933-StarAdv
Babe_Ruth-Waiakea_Pirates-StarAdv
Babe_Ruth-Waiakea_Pirates-StarAdv
Banyan Drive Tree-Amelia_Earhart, 1935
Banyan Drive Tree-Amelia_Earhart, 1935
Flower leis drape Amelia Earhart in Honolulu on January 3, 1935-NatlGeographic
Flower leis drape Amelia Earhart in Honolulu on January 3, 1935-NatlGeographic
Banyan Drive
Banyan Drive
Banyan Drive
Banyan Drive
Some of the Planters of Trees on Banyan Drive (1)
Some of the Planters of Trees on Banyan Drive (1)
Some of the Planters of Trees on Banyan Drive (2)
Some of the Planters of Trees on Banyan Drive (2)

Filed Under: General, Prominent People Tagged With: Banyan Drive, Hilo Walk of Fame, Hawaii, Hawaii Island, Hilo

October 22, 2015 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

John Palmer

“Strictly speaking, there is no harbor at this island.”

“The anchorage is merely a roadstead, which is on the south side of it, and protects the shipping from the northerly gales, which are the most prevalent. In case of a sou’easter, however, ships must put to sea or be driven on the reef. We found about seventy sail at anchor, about sixty-five of them American whalemen.”

“The town of Lahaina is beautifully situated on the level land skirting the sea, and extends along the shore a distance of two miles. Back from the shore it reaches to the foot of the mountains, thus lying hemmed in, as it were, by the sea in front and the mountains in the rear.”

“The reef extends the whole length of the town, about forty rods from shore, and, but for a small opening or break in it, boats would be unable to land.”

“Seamen are obliged to be clear of the beach at drumbeat – eight o’clock in the evening. No person is allowed to remain on shore over night, unless furnished with a proper pass by the captain of the port …”

“… any one found on the beach, or in the town, with no pass, after the proper time, is marched to the calaboose, where he is kept in confinement till morning, and then muleted in a pretty round sum for breaking the laws. This is generally paid by the captain, and afterward, with pretty good interest, deducted from Jack’s pay.” (Jones, 1861)

Some didn’t like, nor follow, all of the rules …

“The main circumstances as related by eye-witnesses were as follows: The crew of the English whale ship John Palmer, Capt. Clark, enticed several base women on board.”

“Hoapili, the governor of the island, demanded of the captain that they should be delivered up to him according to the law of the nation. The Captain evaded and ridiculed the demand.”

“One day when the captain was on shore, the governor detained him and his boat, insisting that his demand should be complied with. The Captain sent orders, by the boats of other ships, to his men on board, to fire upon the town if he should not be released in an hour.”

“The excitement became very great and some foreigners who had formerly been favourable to the mission were gained over to take part in it.”

“He (Clark) soon, however, promised that if the Governor would release him, the women should be sent on shore.” (Dibble)

In October, 1827, an assault was made at Lahaina by the crew of the ‘John Palmer’ … the crew had opened fire on the village with a nine-pound gun, aiming five shots at Mr Richards’s house, which, however, did little damage.

Hoapili received the backing of Richards and other missionaries. As the guns of the whaler fired, the women took refuge in the cellar. No one was killed.

“The next morning, he sailed for Oahu, and as might be expected of such a man, without fulfilling his promise.” (Dibble)

A few days after this affair, December 8th, 1827, the first written laws were published against murder, theft, adultery, rum-selling, and gambling. (Alexander)

Likewise, the Lahaina Fort, originally built of mud and sand to protect the town from riotous sailors when Lahaina was used as an anchorage for the North Pacific whaling fleet, was reinforced and coral blocks added to the walls and canons, salvaged from foreign ships, were added to the armament.

“Immediately in front of the landing is a large fort, built of coral rock, yet not very formidable in its appearance. The black guns which peer over the dingy walls are of small calibre, and not capable of doing much execution. The site is a most excellent one, as the whole shipping lies within its range.” (Jones)

The old fort was demolished in 1854 and the coral blocks used in other construction projects in Lahaina. After the fort was demolished, a courthouse was built on the site. A portion of the old Lahaina Fort was reconstructed in 1964.

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Two cannon balls fired at the home of Rev. William Richards in Lahaina-HSA-PP-37-2-007
Two cannon balls fired at the home of Rev. William Richards in Lahaina-HSA-PP-37-2-007
Richards_House-Plaque
Richards_House-Plaque
Richards_House-Site
Richards_House-Site
Lahaina_from_the_Anchorage_by_Lossing-Barritt-1854 or older
Lahaina_from_the_Anchorage_by_Lossing-Barritt-1854 or older
Lahaina_illustration_by_Nordhoff
Lahaina_illustration_by_Nordhoff
Lahaina-1848-1854
Lahaina-1848-1854
Lahaina as seen from Lahainaluna
Lahaina as seen from Lahainaluna
Lahaina_Fort-(WC)
Lahaina_Fort-(WC)
Lahaina_Town-Map-Bishop-Reg1262 (1884)-portion
Lahaina_Town-Map-Bishop-Reg1262 (1884)-portion
Lahaina_Fort
Lahaina_Fort
Outer wall, Old Prison (Hale Paʻahao), Lahaina Historic District, Lahaina, Hawaii, built 1830s.
Outer wall, Old Prison (Hale Paʻahao), Lahaina Historic District, Lahaina, Hawaii, built 1830s.
Old Lahaina Fort plaque
Old Lahaina Fort plaque

Filed Under: Economy, Missionaries / Churches / Religious Buildings, Sailing, Shipping & Shipwrecks Tagged With: William Richards, Lahaina Roadstead, Lahaina, John Palmer, Hawaii, Maui

October 21, 2015 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Kaʻau

“Go hence to your father,
‘Tis there you find line and hook.
This is the hook-‘Made fast to the heavens’
‘Manaia-ka-lani’ – ‘tis called.
When the hook catches land
It brings the old seas together.
Bring hither the large Alae,
The bird of Hina.”

(Queen Liliʻuokalani, in a translation of the Kumulipo, Hawaiʻi’s creation chant, speaks of Hina’s advice to her son Maui.)

The demi-god Maui is the subject of extraordinary stories throughout Polynesia. In many of the accounts he is a mischievous trickster, stealing the secret of fire and helping his mother to dry kapa by lassoing the sun to slow its progression across the sky. (Bishop Museum)

“The most audacious terrestrial undertaking of the demigod Maui was his attempt to rearrange the Islands of the group and assemble them into one solid mass.”

“Having chosen his station at Kaʻena Point, the western extremity of Oʻahu, from which the island of Kauai is clearly visible on a bright day, he cast his wonderful hook, Mana-ia-ka-Iani, far out into the ocean that it might engage itself in the foundations of Kauai.”

“When he felt that it had taken a good hold, he gave a mighty tug at the line. A huge boulder, the Pōhaku O Kauai, fell at his feet.”

“The mystic hook, having freed itself from the entanglement, dropped into Pālolo Valley and hollowed out the crater, that is its grave.” (Manaiakalani, therefore, formed Kaʻau Crater.)

“This failure to move the whole mass of the island argues no engineering miscalculation on Māui’s part. It was due to the underhand working of spiritual forces.”

“Had Maui been more polite, more observant of spiritual etiquette, more diplomatic in his dealings with the heavenly powers, his ambitious plans would, no doubt, have met with better success.” (Emerson)

Another story of Kaʻau relates to how Helumoa at Waikiki got its name. It involves Kakuhihewa, Maʻilikukahi’s descendent six generations later, ruling chief of O‘ahu from 1640 to 1660 (Maʻilikukahi is honored as the first great Chief of O‘ahu and legends tell of his wise, firm, judicious government.)

It is said that the supernatural chicken, Kaʻauhelemoa one day flew down from his home in Kaʻau Crater in Pālolo and landed at Helumoa.

Furiously scratching into the earth, the impressive rooster then vanished. Kākuhihewa took this as an omen and planted niu (coconuts) at that very spot.

Helumoa (meaning “chicken scratch”) was the name he bestowed on that niu planting that would multiply into a grove of reportedly 10,000-coconut trees.

This is the same coconut grove that would later be called the King’s Grove, or the Royal Grove, and would be cited in numerous historical accounts for its pleasantness and lush surroundings.

Kamehameha and his warriors camped near there, when they began their conquest of O‘ahu in 1795. Later, he would return and build a Western style stone house for himself, as well as residences for his wives and retainers in an area known as Pua‘ali‘ili‘i.

Kamehameha I resided at Helumoa periodically from 1795 to 1809. He ended Waikīkī’s nearly 400-year reign as O‘ahu’s capital when he moved the royal headquarters to Honolulu (known then as Kou) in 1808 (to Pākākā.)

Here’s a little geological background on Kaʻau Crater …

The Hawaiian Islands were formed as the Pacific Plate moved westward over a geologic hot spot. Oʻahu is dominated by two large shield volcanoes, Waiʻanae and Koʻolau that range in age from two to four-million years old.

The younger volcanic craters formed after Oʻahu had moved well off the hot spot and the main shield volcanoes had gone dormant for at least two-million years.

Somewhat more than half of the craters of southeast Oʻahu are arranged in linear groups, those dominated by the craters Tantalus, Diamond Head and Koko Crater. In the Diamond Head group is the main Diamond Head vent, Kaimuki crater and Mauʻumae crater. Kaʻau is an extension of this line of craters up into the Koʻolau range.

The Koko group crater line extends for a distance of about six miles, through the Koko Crater vent and from Mānana Island to Koko Head. It includes no less than fourteen separate vents and dikes, of which most are distant from a straight line but a few yards. (Bishop Museum)

“The Kaʻau tuff and basalt flows were erupted during a high stand of the sea (probably during plus 95-foot (Kaʻena) stand of sea)” (about 1-million years ago – a ‘youthful’ volcanic outburst.) (USGS)

Rising magma encountered groundwater and generated steam explosions. Kaʻau crater was probably blasted out by the explosions. Its walls are Koʻolau basalt, overlain by tuff and mudflow debris.

Toward the end of the eruption, lava rose in Kaʻau crater, probably forming a lava lake. Slight recession of the lava in the crater at the end of the eruption left a poorly drained hollow forming a swamp that sometimes contains an open pond. (Volcanoes in the Sea)

(Kaʻau Crater is reached from the end of the Pālolo valley. The trail (muddy and wet) is a closed trail and is not open to the public – news reports note people are repeatedly rescued from there and a couple people recently died on the trail (portions of the trail involve ascending the waterfalls along the way.)

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Kaau-Crater-Kusko
Kaau-Crater-Kusko
Kaau-Crater-hpulamalama
Kaau-Crater-hpulamalama
Kaau-Crater-Waterfalls
Kaau-Crater-Waterfalls
Kaau-Crater-1st_Waterfall
Kaau-Crater-1st_Waterfall
Kaau-Crater-2nd_Waterfall
Kaau-Crater-2nd_Waterfall
Kaau-Crater-3rd_Waterfall
Kaau-Crater-3rd_Waterfall
Kaau_Crater-saito
Kaau_Crater-saito
Kaau_Crater-hikeclub
Kaau_Crater-hikeclub
Kaau_Crater
Kaau_Crater
Kaau_Crater_Trail-map
Kaau_Crater_Trail-map
Caldera and Rift Zones
Caldera and Rift Zones
Two_Parallel_Rift_Zones
Two_Parallel_Rift_Zones
Three types of cones - Cinder, Lava and Tuff
Three types of cones – Cinder, Lava and Tuff
Eruptive Features and Main Streams
Eruptive Features and Main Streams
Manaiakalani-PVS
Manaiakalani-PVS

Filed Under: Hawaiian Traditions, Place Names Tagged With: Hawaii, Oahu, Maui, Kaau Crater, Manaiakalani

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