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June 9, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Ni‘ihau Lakes

Ni‘ihau was formed from a single shield volcano approximately 4.89-million years ago, making it slightly younger in age than Kaua‘i.

It is approximately 70-square miles or 44,800-acres, and sea cliffs are a prominent feature of the eastern coast. Approximately 78-percent of the island is below 500-feet in elevation.

Ni‘ihau has no perennial streams. Among Ni‘ihau’s most unique natural features are several intermittent lakes.

Halulu Lake is a natural freshwater lake covering approximately 182 acres and Halāli‘i Lake is an intermittent lake covering approximately 841 acres (considered the largest lake in Hawai‘i.)

These lakes are sometimes called “playa” or “intermittent lakes.” This is because the water comes from rainfall, which only averages between 20 to 40 inches per year on Ni‘ihau. During dry years, the lakes are typically dry.

The lakes provide habitat for ‘alae ke‘oke‘o (Hawaiian coot), ae‘o (Hawaiian stilt) and koloa maoli (Hawaiian duck).

The lakes and island fit into a story about the 1941 Pearl Harbor attacks.

As early as 1924, it was reported that the military had predicted a possible attack by the Japanese on Pearl Harbor.

Back then, they even suggested that the remote and relatively vacant island of Niʻihau might be used as a staging area for the attack.

The obvious concern was that Japanese could land their attack planes on the open and level areas on the island.

Niʻihau owner, Alymer Robinson, took it upon himself to take precautions against the Japanese landing on Niʻihau by plowing trenches in the dry lake bed to preventing planes from landing and taking-off.

Plowing using mules began in 1933. In 1937, a small tractor was purchased to expedite the furrowing. Reportedly, they had crisscrossed the island with over 5000 miles of furrows.

The tractor continued to be used as a farm implement until around 1957.

On December 7, 1941 a Zero did crash land on Niʻihau, changing the lives of those who lived there and the lives of thousands of American citizens of Japanese descent.

(In 2004, I had the opportunity to visit Niʻihau (landing at a Navy facility at the top of the pali, as well as circling most of the island by helicopter.)

I saw the still-remaining furrow-work throughout the Niʻihau lakes. The image shows one of the lakes and you can see the patch-work furrows cut into the lake bottom.

The tractor used by the Robinsons is on display at the Pacific Aviation Museum Pearl Harbor. (Some photos and portions of this text are from information from pacificaviationmuseum-org newsletter and on flickr-com (WallyGobetz.))

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Niihau_Lake_criss-cross_furrows
Niihau_Lake_criss-cross_furrows
Niihau_Lake_criss-cross_furrows
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Niihau_lake-GoogleEarth
Niihau_lake-GoogleEarth

Filed Under: Military, Place Names Tagged With: Hawaii, Niihau, Pacific Aviation Museum

June 8, 2019 by Peter T Young 1 Comment

Ahuʻena Heiau

After uniting the Hawaiian kingdom, King Kamehameha the Great returned from Oʻahu to Historic Kailua Village in 1812 to rule from his compound at Kamakahonu.

Here, he could see the vast upslope crops known as the Kona Field System as well as the strategic positioning of Kailua Bay.

Reconstructed by King Kamehameha the Great between 1812 – 1813, the Ahuʻena Heiau (“red-hot heap” “burning altar”) is on the register of National Historic Landmarks as one of the most important of Hawaii’s historic sites.

This was the center of political power in the Hawaiian kingdom during Kamehameha’s golden years and his highest advisors gathered at Ahuʻena Heiau nightly.

Many descriptions and illustrations of the impressive Ahuʻena Heiau, the religious temple that served Kamehameha, were done by early voyagers. The distinctive anuʻu (oracle tower) indicated a heiau of ruling chiefs.

As Kamehameha rose to power, Ahuʻena was deemed among the most powerful heiau of the island of Hawaiʻi.

Ahuʻena Heiau served his seat of government as he ruled the Kingdom of Hawaiʻi.

It was a luakini or a temple where human sacrifice was conducted. Upon this temple was the Lana Nuʻu Mamao (Oracle Tower) a feature not a part of every heiau of that period.

As the King returned to Kailua in 1812, Kona was suffering from famine. Kamehameha directed his attention towards food production and care of the land.

He dedicated Ahuʻena Heiau to Lono, god of healing and prosperity of the land.

Ahuʻena became a heiau māpele, a thatched temple for the worship of Lono and the increase of food, concerned with success of crops. It was also used for the training of Liholiho as a future heir and for many political purposes.

Three momentous events occurred here that established Ahuʻena Heiau as the most historically significant site in Hawaii:
• In the early morning hours of May 8, 1819 King Kamehameha I died here.
• A few months after the death of his father, in a time of political consternation and threat of civil war, Liholiho (Kamehameha II) broke the ancient kapu system, a highly defined regime of taboos that provided the framework of the traditional Hawaiian government.
• The first Christian missionaries from New England were granted permission to come ashore here on April 4, 1820.

In August of 1823 when the Reverend William Ellis visited the area he observed that Ahu`ena had been converted into a fort:
“Adjacent to the governor’s house stand the ruins of Ahuena, an ancient heiau, where the war-god was often kept, and human sacrifices offered.”

“Since the abolition of idolatry, the governor has converted it into a fort, has widened the stone wall next the sea, and placed upon it a number of cannon.”

“The idols are all destroyed, excepting three, which are planted on the wall, one at each end, and the other in the centre, where they stand like sentinels amidst the guns, as if designed, by their frightful appearance, to terrify an enemy.”

The present Ahuʻena was rebuilt in the 1970s as an accurate 2/3-scale model replica and continues to be restored and maintained.

The current restored Ahuʻena Heiau is more properly a restoration of Ahuʻena House, a personal/residential heiau built by Kamehameha sometime around 1813.

Today, beside the Heiau and the Hale Lua, the King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel holds their nightly lūʻau and Polynesian entertainment. Ahuʻena Heiau Inc., formed in 1993 to permanently guide the restoration and maintenance of the property.

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Temple_on_the_Island_of_Hawaii_by_Louis_Choris_ink,ink_wash_and_watercolor_over_pencil_1816
Temple_on_the_Island_of_Hawaii_by_Louis_Choris_ink,ink_wash_and_watercolor_over_pencil_1816
Kamakahonu_Cove-1954 (Ahuena Heiau Inc)
Kamakahonu_Cove-1954 (Ahuena Heiau Inc)
The platform of the Ahu'ena Heiau was restored by Amfac in 1950 using visible alignments for the foundation-(Ahuena Heiau Inc)
The platform of the Ahu’ena Heiau was restored by Amfac in 1950 using visible alignments for the foundation-(Ahuena Heiau Inc)
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Kamehameha_at_Kamakahonu-(HerbKane)
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King_Kamehameha_Hotel-(the_former_hotel)-1960s-1970s
Ahuena Heiau
Ahuena Heiau
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Kamakahonu-Kekahuna-Map
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Ahuena_Heiau-Kekahuna_Map-(BishopMuseum)-SP 201857

Filed Under: Hawaiian Traditions, Place Names Tagged With: Ahuena Heiau, Liholiho, Kamehameha, Hawaii, Missionaries, Kamakahonu

June 6, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Waiola Church

For several years after the American Board missionaries reached Lahaina in 1823, church services were held in temporary structures.

The first mission to Maui was founded by Reverend William Richards at that time. For a few years, temporary structures made from wooden poles with a thatched roof were used.

The church started under the name Waine‘e Church (“Moving Water.”) In 1826, it was blown down by wind and replaced by stone and wood.

In 1828, the chiefs, led by Ulumāheihei Hoapili, proposed to build a new stone church. The cornerstone was laid on September 14, 1828, for this ‘first stone meeting-house built at the Islands’; it was dedicated on March 4, 1832.

Waine‘e served as the church for Hawaiian royalty during the time when Lāhainā was effectively the Kingdom’s capital, from the 1820s through the mid-1840s.

In 1858, a whirlwind ravaged the roof and church steeple, but was repaired without too much trouble. The church stood safely for another 36 years, until it was destroyed by fire in 1894.

A new church building was built, a gift from Henry P. Baldwin, and that lasted another 50 years until it was partially destroyed by fire again. It was restored and re-dedicated only to be completely destroyed by a Kaua‘ula wind (a strong wind, especially in Lāhainā, that shifted from one point to another) three years later.

The Church finally changed its name from Waine‘e Church, to Waiola Church (“Water of Life”) in 1954, and has been safely and well taken care of since. The materials changed over time from grass, to coral, then to stone and wood, and then to the stronger materials such as brick.

The present church structure and the old cemetery occupy a tract of 2.45-acres on Waine‘e Street, between Chapel and Shaw Streets. The property is owned by the Waiola Protestant Church.

The priesthood at the church has changed multiple times since the original establishing of the church, and some reputable and well-known priests and preachers including, Dwight Baldwin, who preached from 1837 to 1868.

Waiola Church has extremely strong cultural ties to the people and land of Hawaiʻi. Waiola church served royalty for years, as Lāhainā was the capital of the Kingdom.

Waiola Church is one of the few still-standing buildings and monuments of the Hawaiian royalty long ago, and the great changes that Hawai‘i and its people went through in the 19th century.

Rev. Ephraim Spaulding joined with his wife Juliet Brooks from 1832 to 1836. Missionary Rev. Dwight Baldwin transferred here in 1836, and served as physician. The Baldwins rebuilt the house of the Spaulding’s.

Reportedly, the church is immortalized in James Michener’s Hawai‘i (as Reverend Abner Hale’s church in Lāhainā.)

The adjoining cemetery is said to date from 1823. Several members of the royal family were buried in the cemetery. A notable aspect of the cemetery is that the missionaries and native Hawaiians were buried side by side.

It contains the body of Keōpūolani (“Gathering of the Clouds of Heaven”), wife of Kamehameha the Great and mother of Kamehameha II and Kamehameha III.

She and Ka‘ahumanu were largely responsible for the abolition of the kapu system. Keōpūolani is said to have been the first convert of the missionaries in the islands, receiving baptism from Rev. William Ellis in Lāhainā on September 16, 1823.

Other prominent Hawaiian nobles interred there include King Kaumuali‘i, Queen Kalākua, Princess Nahiʻenaʻena, Governor Hoapili and Governess Liliha. Here, too, is buried the Rev. William Richards, a pioneer missionary and advisor to the Hawaiian monarchy.

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Wainee_Church-Mokuula in foeground-1851
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Wainee_Church-1840
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Coral_Tomb_of_Keopuolani-Wainee-Waiola_Church-Lahaina_Maui-(EngravedAtLahainaluna)
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ATTACHMENT DETAILS Brick-tomb-Waineʻe-now-Waiola-Church-Cemetery
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Wainee_Church-destroyed by winds-1951
Waiola Church (formerly Waineʻe Church), Lahaina Historic District, Lahaina
Waiola Church (formerly Waineʻe Church), Lahaina Historic District, Lahaina
Waiola Church (formerly Waineʻe Church), Lahaina Historic District, Lahaina
Waiola Church (formerly Waineʻe Church), Lahaina Historic District, Lahaina

Filed Under: Missionaries / Churches / Religious Buildings Tagged With: Wainee, Dwight Baldwin, William Richards, Nahienaena, Hoapili, Keopuolani, Kaumualii, Kalakua, Hawaii, William Ellis, Maui, Lahaina, Waiola

June 5, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Grapevine

“In reporting to the Society on the subject of the grape-vine, it is gratifying to feel, that in this body, at least, its value, as well as its suitableness, to the soil and climate of these islands, is conceded … “

“… and that we have no longer to combat the hostility of some, who on former occasions, sought to discourage its culture, on the ground that we are ‘too far South,’ and that ‘grapes cannot be profitably grown in the tropics’ and so forth.”

“The cumulative experience of each succeeding season, goes incontrovertibly and conclusively to negative such obsolete theories, which cannot hold their ground against the every day evidence of our senses.” (John Montgomery, Report to Royal Hawaiian Agricultural Society, June 1, 1854)

Don Francisco de Paula Marin (known to the Hawaiian as ‘Manini’), a Spaniard who arrived in the Hawaiian Islands in the 1790s (at about the age of 20), is credited with introducing and/or cultivating in Hawai‘i: pineapple, coffee, avocado, mango and grapes.

He fermented the first wine in Hawai‘i and distilled brandy. He also made rum from sugarcane and brewed beer, all of which he sold at his boarding house-saloon near the waterfront.

His ‘New Vineyard’ grapevines were located Waikiki side of Nu‘uanu Stream and makai of Vineyard Street; when a road was cut through its mauka boundary, it became known as Vineyard Street.

“‘The Doubter’ … asserted that the grape could not be profitably grown in the tropics, and which I rebutted by an array of facts, proving that grapes are grown and good wine made in large quantities, in much lower latitudes than ours.”

“The suitableness of our climate for vine-culture, being conceded, the next most important consideration in connection with the subject, is the selection of the best soil and situation for the full development of the fruit.”

“It is generally known that volcanic countries are those in which the vine flourishes most and produces the best and most abundant crops. The best wines of Italy are yielded by grapes grown in the vicinity of Vesuvius, and large quantities are grown in the neighborhood of Aetna; both Tokay and Hermitage, are the produce of volcanic regions.”

“I entirely concur in the remark of Dr. Baldwin in his report on this subject, last year, that so far as our observation goes, we should expect that the grape would flourish in every part of the islands where there is sufficient depth of soil, not too dry, well exposed to the sun, and where they are protected from the trade-winds.”

“That the alluvial soil of the valleys, formed by deposits of the disintegrated and decomposed volcanic rocks which form the basis of our mountains, combined with decomposed vegetable matter, is admirably adapted for vine-culture, no one who has visited Lahaina, on Maui, or Waimea valley, on Kauai, can doubt …”

“… and I presume many others of our sheltered valleys would be equally productive. But our valleys form only a small fraction of the entire surface, and besides are so very valuable for the raising of other important crops, which cannot be well grown elsewhere …”

“… that it becomes the more important to investigate with care, the other portions of the surface, with a view to finding localities, less valuable for other purposes, where the grape can be profitably grown, and whether the rocky hill-sides which in other volcanic countries produce grapes in abundance, cannot here also be made available for the purpose.”

“A soil abounding in rocks and stones, is that in which the vine flourishes most, in the majority of wine-making regions ; and the rocky and precipitous hill-sides of Madeira, Teneriffe, the Azores and other similar countries where wine of high character is largely made for export, closely resemble our own barren mountain slopes.”

“In these countries, the earth found in the interstices of the rocks, is stirred up to a sufficient depth to receive the young plant, which finds usually sufficient moisture and shelter, to induce its rapid vegetation …”

“… and in the course of time its erratic shoots deposit and dispere themselves over the intervening rocks, where they find abundant heat and light to encourage the growth and the full development of their fruit, which in such a position matures with much rapidity, to great perfection.”

“That the same result will follow in similar localities on these islands has been already proved by several parties, one of whom, Mr. Cummins, of Kealakeakua, has at present a flourishing and highly promising little vine-yard on the stony surface of Kona, on Hawaii, a district which I apprehend, offers unmistakable evidence of its entire adaptation to vine-culture on a vastly extensive scale.”

“The elevation at which the vine will flourish and produce large and remunerative crops of fine fruit, is much higher than many imagine, and it is a great error to suppose, that it requires the high temperature of Lahaina to bring it to perfection.”

“Dr. Baldwin states in his report of last year, that he has seen ‘the finest grapes, produced too, in great abundance, in Kuapehu, on Hawaii, at an elevation of 1,500 feet,’ and adds that his impression is that the vine-growing regions are of great elevation, in which opinion he is fully sustained by facts.”

“On the same island, in Hāmākua, and at about the same elevation, another of our enterprising settlers, Robert Robinson, has produced enormous crops of excellent grapes this season; but it is unnecessary to multiply evidence on the subject.”

“Next in importance, after the selection of suitable soil, for a vineyard, is to secure a situation, either naturally sheltered from the trade-winds, or on which artificial shelter can be cheaply and easily made. “

“The mode of training the vine is also an important consideration. The object sought to be obtained by training, is to secure the largest crop of grapes of the best quality, and for the latter, an abundant exposure to the direct rays of the sun, both for heat and light, seems to be indispensable.”

“In extensive vine-yards, the more usual plan is, to train each plant to a single pole, the plants being set in rows 3 or 3 ½ feet apart, each way, and this method seems to answer the purpose admirably, and at a small cost.”

“Another method, perhaps best adapted for gardens, is to train the shoots on lateral trellices, about 6 feet high, but avoiding all top shade, which is always injurious to the quality and flavor of the fruit.”

“Humidity of climate, so far from being beneficial, is decidedly injurious to it, and in damp countries, grapes seldom come to perfection …”

“… whereas, in some countries, where it never rains, as in Guayaquil, in Bolivia, and other parts of the South American continent, excellent grapes and good wines are produced in abundance, a sample of which wine I have had the pleasure to taste at the hospitable board of HBM’s Consul-General in this city.”

“In discussing the important subject of vine-culture, I have hitherto gone on the assumption that it is desirable to be carried on, on an extensive scale …”

“… but if our present system is to be perpetuated, and that we are to be prohibited from using the fruit for any other purposes than eating only, it is idle to think of converting our now barren wastes into vine-yards, which could serve no useful purpose, or compensate for the cost of their formation.”

“The application of a crop, for the encouragement of the culture of which, this Society awards annual premiums, I take to be within the scope of a report, and as such I would take leave to say that I trust and hope the time has gone by when the manufacture of wine for export will be opposed by any important sections of this intelligent community.” (John Montgomery, Report to Royal Hawaiian Agricultural Society, June 1, 1854)

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Maui-Lahaina-Baldwin_House-Grapes
Grapes in Honolulu
Grapes in Honolulu

Filed Under: General, Economy Tagged With: Hawaii, Don Francisco de Paula Marin, Grapes, Vineyard

June 4, 2019 by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Waipā

Waipā, at 1,600-acres, is one of the smallest in a series of nine historic ahupuaʻa within Kauai’s moku (district) of Haleleʻa. Located along the north coast of Kauai, Haleleʻa today is commonly referred to as the Kauai “north shore”.

Haleleʻa is a historic moku, which today encompasses the communities of Kilauea, Kalihiwai, Wanini/Kalihikai, Princeville, Hanalei/Waiʻoli, Wainiha, and Haʻena. Waipā is located between the ahupuaʻa of Waiʻoli and Waikoko.

What started as a fight in 1982 to preserve the valley and stop a development, the Waipā Foundation of Hanalei Valley and Kamehameha Schools (land owner) are now partnering in restoring the ahupuaʻa of Waipā as a cultural complex.

The Waipā Foundation is a community-based 501 (c) (3) nonprofit, whose mission is to restore the health and abundance of the 1,600-acre Waipā watershed, through the creation of a Hawaiian community center and learning center.

The Foundation, and its predecessor The Hawaiian Farmers of Hanalei, have been implementing this mission in their management of the valley since 1986.

One of Waipā Foundation’s core goals is to empower and enrich the communities along Kauai’s Haleleʻa district – with a special focus on the Hawaiian, low-income and at-risk communities.

This is accomplished through the creation of community assets, development and implementation of programs focusing on culture, enrichment, education and leadership and that foster a strong connection with, and love of, the land and resources.

Waipā is a living learning center that hosts organized groups from Hawaiʻi and beyond that are interested in contributing to the work at Waipā, and learning about the Hawaiian culture and environment – and the relationships between the two – through hands-on experiences.

Two of Waipā Foundation’s long-range goals are:
• To restore the health of the natural environment and native ecosystems of the ahupuaʻa, and to involve our community in the stewardship, restoration, and management of the land and resources within the ahupuaʻa of Waipā.
• To practice and foster social, economic and environmental sustainability in the management of Waipā’s natural and cultural resources.

In the mauka area, restoration of the native forest has been an important priority. Upper Waipā was historically deforested by the Sandalwood trade, cattle ranching and forest fire; and today is overrun by non-native grasses, shrubs and trees.

In the past few years, over 2,000 native trees and shrubs have been established in a network of planting sites in the mauka riparian zone at Waipā. Most of the seed for the outplantings was collected from within Waipa, and the surrounding areas.

In the ‘kula’ zone of the ahupuaʻa (where in ancient times was the area for growing food and living,) Waipa Foundation has been creating and restoring wetland and dryland farming areas, for kalo and other food crops.

Waipā’s lo’i is a 2-acre area that is farmed by staff, volunteers and program participants, as a learning site and for kalo production through experimenting with more organic and sustainable approaches.

Waipā hosts a farmers market which makes fresh, local produce and food available to community and visitors. They also grow, make and distribute produce (grown at Waipā) and poi to community and ohana, on a weekly basis.

In the makai area, work has been ongoing to restore the muliwai (estuary,) as well as the Halulu fishpond. Likewise, with restoration and native plant planting along the stream bank, efforts are underway to protect Waiʻoli Stream.

Lots of good stuff is going on at Waipā.

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Waipa
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Filed Under: Place Names Tagged With: Hawaii, Kamehameha Schools, Kauai, Hanalei, Waipa

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People, places, and events in Hawaiʻi’s past come alive through text and media in “Images of Old Hawaiʻi.” These posts are informal historic summaries presented for personal, non-commercial, and educational purposes.

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