Images of Old Hawaiʻi

by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Anuenue

It was created by the filling of the reef flats during incremental dredging of Honolulu harbor and Ke‘ehi lagoon. The village of Kou, inland of it, had a long history of settlement.

It originally consisted of marginal sandy lands on an elevated coral reef platform named Kahololoa. This reef was cut by stream channels on the west and east which were later developed into the Kalihi channel and the Honolulu harbor channel on the east.

In the 1840s, there were several islands or dryland areas on the off shore reef flats. In late-1868 a visiting ship unloaded passengers who were exposed to smallpox on Kahololoa reef.

A few months later, in early 1869, a small island on the reef, Kamoku‘akulikuli, was leased by Kamehameha III’s government and used as a quarantine station. By 1888 the island which had been enlarged was known as Quarantine Island.

In 1902 title to Quarantine Island was transferred to the US after the establishment of a marine hospital by the US Public Health Service. Over the next few years dredged materials from improvements to Honolulu harbor had enlarged the island again and by 1906 the island was encircled by a seawall.

In 1916, Sand Island Military Reservation was established on the reclaimed land of the quarantine station. Subsequent episodes of harbor improvements resulted in enlarging the island and, by 1925 the reef around Sand Island had been removed and the island was completely surrounded by water.

During the early 1940s, Sand Island became the headquarters of the Army Port and Service Command and in the early 1940s the island was further enlarged with fill materials from the dredging of the seaplane runway.

It is approximately 520 acres in area and shelters Honolulu Harbor from the open ocean. It is connected to the island of O’ahu by a bascule bridge at the western end of the island. (DLNR)

In 1959, by Executive Order 10833, the Department of the Army transferred the Island to the Territory of Hawaii. In 1963 ownership was transferred to the State of Hawaii (Star Bulletin, March 12, 1991). (Dye)

For a time it was called Anuenue Island. That changed in 1969 when a proclamation by memorandum of the Governor declared the Island shall be named Sand Island and that name is shall be used on all official state maps, documents and correspondence. (§6E-36)

One of the few lasting legacies of the Island’s former name is Anuenue Fisheries Research Center (AFRC,) a base yard, hatchery and culture center for DLNR’s Division of Aquatic Resources – it’s still operating on the Island.

The AFRC is involved in all aspects of our fisheries and aquaculture programs. Activity there involves the production of channel catfish and rainbow trout for stocking of public fishing areas at Nuʻuanu (Oʻahu) and Kokeʻe (Kauai.) Moi is also raised there and released at Waikīkī and elsewhere.

The physical facilities include: (1) an office complex; (2) a 7,000 square feet complex that houses a biological-chemical laboratory, freshwater fish hatchery, workshop and storage areas for fisheries survey gear, equipment and boats; (3) a 19,000 square feet thermos-controlled hatchery building; (4) the Chief Biologist’s residence; and (5) quarantine facility for aquatic animal disease studies. (DLNR)

The Anuenue Fisheries facility served to help battle the invasive seaweeds at Kāneʻohe Bay. Seaweed is threatening to smother coral patch reefs in the area; sea urchins eat seaweed.

AFRC reared 250,000-sea urchins that have been placed on selected reefs in the Bay. As a result of the urchins, “we are seeing a reduction of invasive alien seaweeds in the targeted areas.” (DLNR; KITV)

Alien invasive seaweed has plagued Kaneohe Bay for more than 30 years. While I was at DLNR, in 2005, DLNR, The Nature Conservancy and the University of Hawaiʻi developed a two-tier approach to the problem.

First they removed the algae, typically using the ‘Super Sucker’ (a mobile vacuum system that removes algae using suction generated from a pump system housed on a pontoon barge. Divers gently remove the invasive algae from reefs and feed it into a long hose attached to the pump.)

The pump sucks the algae back to the barge and onto a sorting table where it is bagged. Bags of algae are delivered to local farmers who use the nutrient rich algae as fertilizer on crops such as taro and sweet potatoes. Smothering Seaweed is high in potassium and is believed to repel insects from crops. (Super Sucker)

The Super Sucker has been working in the Bay since 2006. The pump system can remove hundreds of pounds of algae an hour, and in 2010 removed over 98,000 pounds of invasive algae.

Then, native sea urchins are placed on the cleared reef patches to eat and keep down the remaining seaweed as a biocontrol of invasive algae.

“These native, herbivorous urchins maintain the areas like ocean gardeners or little goats of the sea. They keep the seaweed in check and give the corals a chance to recover.” (David Cohen, DLNR; KITV)

Oh, some of the other names for what is now called Sand Island? … Anuenue; Akulikuli; Kahakaʻaulana; Kahololoa; Kamokuʻākulikuli ; Mauliola; Moku Akulikuli; Quarantine Island and Rainbow Island.

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by Peter T Young 3 Comments

Kazumura Cave

The ʻAilaʻau eruption is considered the longest memorable eruption of Kilauea.

(Before Pele, there was ʻAilaʻau (Ai means the ‘one who eats or devours.’ Laʻau means ‘tree’ or a ‘forest.’) ʻAilaʻau was, therefore, the fire-god devouring forests. When Pele came, she took over as fire goddess, ʻAilaʻau left.) (Westervelt)

The ʻAilaʻau eruption took place from a vent area just east of Kilauea Iki. The eruption built a broad shield. The eastern part of Kilauea Iki Crater slices through part of the shield, and red cinder and lava flows near the center of the shield can be seen on the northeastern wall of the crater.

The eruption probably lasted about 50-years, from about 1420 to 1470 AD. The large volume of lava covered a huge area, about 166 square miles (106,240-acres) – larger than the Island of Lanaʻi (140-square miles.)

Lava covered all, or most, of what are now Mauna Loa Estates, Royal Hawaiian Estates, Hawaiian Orchid Island Estates, Fern Forest Vacation Estates, Eden Rock Estates, Crescent Acres, Hawaiian Acres, Orchid Land Estates, ʻAinaloa, Hawaiian Paradise Park and Hawaiian Beaches.

The pahoehoe flows did leave rather large kipuka south of Keaʻau and in the forest southwest of ʻAinaloa, as well as small kipuka in Hawaiian Paradise Park and elsewhere.

This eruption and lava flow may be described in the Pele-Hiʻiaka chant. Hiʻiaka, late on returning to Kilauea from Kauai with Lohiau, sees that Pele has broken her promise and set afire Hiʻiaka’s treasured ʻohiʻa lehua forest in Puna.

Hiʻiaka is furious, and this leads to her love-making with Lohiau, his subsequent death at the hands of Pele, and Hiʻiaka’s frantic digging to recover the body.

The ʻAilaʻau flows seem to be the most likely candidate to have covered so much of Puna that they were worthy of commemoration in the chant.

The timing seems right, too – after the Pele clan arrived from Kahiki, before the caldera formed (Hiʻiaka’s frantic digging may record this), and before the encounters with Kamapuaʻa, some of which probably deal with explosive eruptions between about 1500 and 1790. (USGS)

Reminders of past eruptions are lava tubes. Lava tubes are natural conduits through which lava travels beneath the surface of a lava flow. Tubes form by the crusting over of lava channels and pāhoehoe flows.

When the supply of lava stops at the end of an eruption or lava is diverted elsewhere, lava in the tube system drains downslope and leaves partially empty conduits beneath the ground. (USGS)

One such, as a result of the ʻAilaʻau eruption, is Kazumura Cave – it has been called the longest (over 40-miles) and (to some) deepest lava tube in the world and the deepest cave in the US. (Cultural Surveys)

According the Hawaiian Government Surveyors in 1891 (related to ‘The New Puna Road:’) “An interesting feature of this locality is the large number of lava caverns and long subterranean passages abounding upon it, especially between the 9th and 11th miles, in fact this whole tract is so thoroughly penetrated by caverns that hollow sounds are often heard beneath ones footsteps when traversing the region.”

“These subterranean passages are generally entered through some opening made by the falling in of the roof and prove to be regular arched ways, ranging as much as 25 feet in width and 15 feet high and extending for long distances.”

“The floors have that corrugated ropy appearance such as are seen on any viscid mass if drawn out as it hardens. The roofs and sides are covered with stalactites, the whole producing a wonderful effect when lit up.”

“These caverns evidently served as burial places in ancient and comparatively modern times in view of the fact that the benches here and there were covered in human remains.” (Cultural Surveys)

“Its average inclination was found to be 1.75 degrees, less in its lower section and considerably more in the upper sections. Passage cross-sections also were found to be different in the different areas.”

“While considerable local variation exists, its lower end tends to be wide and comparatively low while the upper section tends to be high and narrow. Locally, slip slopes and cut banks were found at sharp bends. Lavafalls up to about 15 m are numerous, especially in the upper sections.” (Halliday)

I have asked everyone who I thought should know who Kazumura was (the apparent namesake of the cave/lava tube.) Any insight into who Kazumura was is appreciated.

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

Isaac Davis

It’s hard to tell the story of Isaac Davis without including John Young.  They arrived in Hawai‘i at the same time (on different boats) and they served Kamehameha I as co-advisors.  I’ll try to keep the focus on Davis, here (but remember, their roles in Hawai‘i are pretty much the same.)

Isaac Davis (c. 1758–1810) (Welsh) arrived in Hawaii in 1790 as the sole survivor of the massacre of the crew of The Fair American.  He became one of the closest advisors to Kamehameha I. 

He and co-advisor John Young were instrumental in Kamehameha’s military ventures and his eventual conquest and unification of the Hawaiian Islands. 

Davis became a respected translator and military advisor for Kamehameha.

Davis brought western military knowledge to Hawai‘i and played a big role during Hawaii’s first contacts with the European powers.  His skill in gunnery, as well as the cannon from the Fair American, helped Kamehameha win many battles.

Isaac Davis resided entirely with Kamehameha (note that his home is near the King’s at Pākākā (see my post on March 15, 2012, noting the map of Honolulu in 1810.))

Davis had the King’s “most perfect confidence” and he attended to Kamehameha’s needs on all travels of business or pleasure – and ventured with him during times of war.

Davis earned Kamehameha’s “greatest respect and the highest degree of esteem and regard.”

He became one of the highest chiefs under Kamehameha the Great, and was Governor of Oʻahu during the early-1800s.  Isaac Davis had been one of Kamehameha’s closest friends and advisors.

An observer noted in 1798 that, “On leaving Davis the king embraced him and cried like a child. Davis said he always did when he left him, for he was always apprehensive that he might leave him, although he had promised him he would never do it without giving him previous notice.”

Davis was known among the Hawaiians as “Aikaka.”

Davis married twice. His blood survives to this day; the Davis family is reportedly the oldest foreign family in the Hawaiian Islands.

His daughter Betty married Humehume (George Prince Kaumuali‘i, the son of King Kaumuali‘i of Kauaʻi.)  His grandson was the second husband of Princess Ruth Keʻelikōlani.

When Kamehameha sought to negotiate with King Kaumuali‘i of Kaua‘i, Kamehameha summoned Isaac Davis to escort Kaumuali‘i to O‘ahu.

At Pākākā (at Honolulu Harbor, in 1810,) it was agreed that Kaua‘i would join with the rest of the archipelago, but that Kaumuali‘i would continue to rule that island while acknowledging Kamehameha as his sovereign – reportedly, Isaac Davis assisted in the negotiations, on behalf of Kamehameha.

Several chiefs opposed this agreement and wished that Kaumuali‘i be put to death and plotted a secret plan to poison him.

Isaac Davis learned of the plot and warned Kaumuali‘i – then, Kaumuali‘i fled back to Kaua‘i.

Isaac Davis suddenly died in April, 1810.

Apparently, the poison that was intended for Kaumuali‘i was given to Davis.

When Isaac Davis died, it was a shock to Kamehameha and a “dark day” in the life of the king.

Davis was buried in Honolulu, in “The Cemetery for Foreigners”; however, the exact burial location is not known.

After his death, his friend and co-advisor to Kamehameha, John Young, looked after Davis’ children. In addition, Young’s will, dated 1834, stated:

“I give and bequeath to be equally divided between my surviving children and the surviving children of my departed friend the late Isaac Davis of Milford in England, in such manner as it shall please His Magesty the King and his Chiefs.”

The image is a memorial in O‘ahu Cemetery to Isaac Davis and his descendants.

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

An Extraordinary ‘Happening’ – a Pre-Bicentennial Event in Hawai‘i

“Nichiren Shoshu Academy is a branch of Soka Gakkai of Japan, a lay organization made up of followers of a Japanese Buddhist sect called Nichiren Shoshu, whose own roots go deep into Japanese culture.”

“Soka Gakkai was founded as an educational society prior to World War II and after the war experienced a period of rapid growth. “In 1979, it claimed a membership of 7,880,000 households (Japan Times Weekly, May 12, 1979). It is not only the largest religious organization in Japan today, but the largest organization of any kind.” (Yoko Yamamoto Parks, 1980)

“Around 1970 NSA leaders adopted a further ‘Americanizing’ strategy by presenting the movement as a force for the revitalization of American revolutionary ideals. On the one hand, the American Revolution of 1776 was defined as an ‘ideal,’ conducted in a true ‘spirit of democracy’ and a ‘pioneer spirit.’”

“But on the other, NSA contended, this tradition of a democracy at the service of the interests of every individual had collapsed in America under the weight of problems of war, drugs, racial discrimination, and a pervasive sense of anomie.”

“NSA was presented as a movement to bring America back to the spirit of democracy, freedom, and happiness (NSA Quarterly, 1975 Special Summer Issue).” (Yoko Yamamoto Parks)

NSA “calls itself: ‘A non-profit organization aimed at building better communities through restoring hope and confidence among individual citizens, who often are discouraged and disillusioned by the complex problems facing modem society …’”

“‘NSA’s many activities are all an expression of renewed courage, determination and happiness in meeting the challenge of modem times.’” (Smyser, Star Bulletin)

“In 1969 the ‘Spirit of 1776’ was chosen as the theme of the NSA National Convention for that year.” (Yoko Yamamoto Parks)  Then, in 1975, as part of Pre-Bicentennial activities, “A ‘HAPPENING’ took place in Waikiki last weekend that deserves understanding, but may defy it.”

“Twenty thousand white. black and yellow members of Nichirenshoshu Sokagakkai Academy (NSA for short) put on:

  • The most fantastic parade Kalakaua Avenue has ever seen.
  • From an offshore floating stage, a daytime International Show and Water Festival, and a dramatic nighttime Spirit of ‘76 Pre-Bicentennial Pageant.
  • Three nights of gigantic fireworks displays.
  • Three days of a Polynesian Village exhibit at Fort DeRussy.”

“They called their gathering a convention, but there were no business sessions, or debates, or resolutions, just the events staged and prepared by the members themselves, and free to the public as NSA’s ‘Bicentennial gift to the people of Hawaii.’” (Smyser, Star Bulletin)

On Saturday, July 26, 1975, Waikiki Beach became an outdoor arena for thousands of spectators attending the SGI-USA’s Twelfth US Nationwide General Meeting.

“Among the highlights for the 20,000 members were the International Show and Water Festival and the Spirit of ’76 Pre-Bicentennial Pageant, both held on an offshore floating stage.” (Star Adv)

There was entertainment from a floating island stage anchored in waters off Waikiki opposite the Surfrider Hotel. “The Multi-Million-dollar stage measures 100 by 150 feet and the volcano backdrop with its rear projection screen stands as high as a five-story building. The stage weighs more than 2,500 tons in addition to 20 tons of props.”

“Hidden behind the floating stage is a smaller barge area with a fresh water supply, dressing rooms, toilets, and rest areas for the several thousand performers and crew members.”  (Hnl Adv, July 25, 1975)

“The floating stage was an amazing engineering challenge as fireworks were shot off from the volcano, there was a rear projection screen and hundreds of performers were shuttled by boat at night to perform on stage.”

“It was quite an amazing production to say the least. To bring a floating stage in required the EPA’s and Hawaiian Government’s approval.”  (James C. Stephens)

“A Polynesian Village we constructed in the warehouse and moved in the middle of the night from the old Dole Pineapple warehouse to Fort DeRussy in downtown Waikiki.”  (James C. Stephens)

“The Polynesian Village requires one hell of a lot of bamboo. I’m sure we’ve used well into 14,000 pieces of bamboo. Well, the Ranger let’s us cut in the bamboo forest reserve. They wouldn’t even let the Boy Scouts cut any during the big Jamboree.” (James C. Stephens)

“Virtually every aspect of the convention – from building the stage and props to writing the shows’ songs and dances to moving members’ luggage to the hotels – has been planned, organized and carried out by NSA members themselves.”

“Convention planners estimate that about 350,000 work hours – almost all voluntary – have gone into the design and production of the stage. Hundreds of members have been working for months in Hawaii and elsewhere”.

“In this way NSA members believe the convention serves to ‘tap the unknown potential’ in themselves. Or, as the convention booklet says: …”

“‘In challenging themselves to do what’s never been done before, people find that by working together they can conquer their limitations and discover new capabilities.’” (Hnl Adv, July 25, 1975)

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by Peter T Young Leave a Comment

‘Where America’s Day Really Begins’

An island is a body of land surrounded by water.  (Continents are also surrounded by water, but because they are so big, they are not considered islands.) An atoll is a ring-shaped coral reef, island, or series of islets. The atoll surrounds a body of water called a lagoon. (National Geographic)

Wake is a small tropical coral atoll in the Pacific Ocean consisting of three islands (Peale, Wake, and Wilkes) enclosing a shallow, central lagoon and surrounded by a narrow fringing reef.

From reef to reef, the atoll is approximately 5 miles long and 2.5 miles wide.  The atoll is about 2,460-miles west of Hawaiʻi, 1,600-miles east of Guam and 700-miles north of Kwajalein in the Marshall Islands.

Oral traditions claim that the Marshallese knew of Wake Atoll prior to contact with European navigators. The Marshallese name for the atoll was Eneen-Kio or Ane-en Kio, “Island of the kio flower.”

The atoll was a source of feathers and plumes of seabirds. Prized were the wing bones of albatross, from which tattooing chisels could be made.  In addition, the rare kio flower grew on the atoll.

Bringing these items to the home atolls implied that the navigators had been able to complete the feat of finding the atoll using traditional navigation skills of stars, wave patterns and other ocean markers.  (Spennemann)

Today, it is more commonly referred to as ‘Wake Island’ or ‘Wake Atoll’ (rediscovery of Wake and its naming is usually credited to Captain William Wake of the British trading schooner Prince William Henry, enroute from Port Jackson, Australia to Canton in China in 1792). (NPS)

Wake, to the west of Honolulu, Hawaii, is the northernmost atoll in the Marshall Islands geological ridge and perhaps the oldest living atoll in the world. Wake Atoll was claimed by the United States in 1898; formal possession of Wake was made by the US on January 17, 1899.

Pan American Airways applied in 1935 for permission to establish a seaplane base at Wake for its “Clipper” flying boats, the pioneer trans-Pacific air route: San Francisco, Hawaii, Midway, Wake, Guam, Manila, and later, Hong Kong.

Pan Am commenced its profitable transpacific airmail delivery service on November 22, 1935, and its transpacific passenger service nearly a year later on November 4, 1936.  (HALS UM-1)  The flight across the Pacific then took six days. (NPS)

Pan Am the blasted over one hundred coral heads from within Wake’s lagoon to prepare a suitable landing area for its “Clippers”. Pan Am passengers debarked at the lagoon-end of a long docking pier and passed through a pavilion on the shore side of the pier on their way to the Pan Am hotel. (HALS UM-1)

Just as a prefab hotel was built on Midway, a prefabricated hotel building was built on Wake.  The hotel was Y-shaped, with the lounge and dining room in the center and 20 rooms in each of the two flanking wings.  It was sited to take advantage of views across the lagoon.

Between 1935 and 1941, the Pan Am seaplane station on Peale Island consisted of a landing docking and shelter, a single-story hotel, crew and personnel quarters, recreation building, sick bay, shop and warehouse buildings, utility structures and communication facilities. (HALS UM-1)

The location of Wake Island made it a strategic location for both the US and Japan. It was recognized that if war broke out between Japan and the US, Wake could: …

… provide for a defensive outpost; enable long range reconnaissance deep into enemy territory; enable the disruption of shipping; serve as staging ground for offensive operations; and be utilized as an emergency air station.  (Butowsky)

Wake was substantially modified by the US to create a military base before WWII.  As part of the WWII build-up, by mid-1941, construction of the Naval Air Station seaplane base included a seaplane ramp and parking area on the lagoon side of central Peale Island.

The Japanese declared war on the US with its attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941, and the same day in another time zone attempted to seize Wake Island.

The Japanese opening attack of Wake came swiftly by air at 11:58 am (local time) on December 8, 1941; Wake was defended by about 500-military personnel (about one-quarter of its intended size.)  In addition, there were about 1,200-civilian workers on the atoll.

Despite the earlier preparations, none of the defensive installations were sufficiently completed by the time of the Japanese attack.  (The facilities were estimated to have been only 65-percent finished.)

The island finally fell on December 23, 1941; with the fall of Wake Island to the Japanese in late-December 1941, Midway became their westernmost US outpost in the central Pacific.  More than 700-Japanese were killed during the attacks, while only 52-US military personnel lost their lives.

The Japanese took approximately 1,600 prisoners of war (POWs), 450 of whom were military personnel. The American POWs were sent to Japanese prison camps, mostly in China but some in Japan. Of these 1,600, 360 were retained by the Japanese to work as forced laborers for the Japanese.

In September, 1942, all were removed from the island except for ninety-eight of the prisoners (all civilian heavy equipment operators, except for one doctor) who were kept on Wake to assist the Japanese in developing their defensive positions on the atoll. (HALS UM-1)

(A sad side story notes that on October 7, 1943 when the Japanese saw subsequent invasion of Wake, Rear Admiral Shigematsu Sakaibara ordered the execution of the 98-American civilian prisoners. They were taken to one side of the island and shot with machine guns.)

(One prisoner escaped and carved a memorial into a large rock “98 US PW 5-10-43;” it’s still there. This prisoner was caught and also executed shortly after.  After the war, Sakaibara and his subordinate, Lieutenant-Commander Tachibana, were sentenced to hang for this massacre.) The memory of their sacrifice is sustained by the inscription on “POW Rock” on Wilkes Island.

During their almost 4-year occupation of Wake, the Japanese constructed elaborate shoreline defenses. The Japanese widened and lengthened the US-built runway on the eastern side of the south arm of Wake Island and built two additional runways.

From 1941 to 1945, the Japanese stationed as many as 4,000 troops on the atoll at any given time, and they continued their development of Wake Island unabated until June of 1943.

In July of 1943, American bombers, who had begun bombing and shelling Wake since February of 1942, attacked Japanese coastal defense positions. On August 13, 1945, Marine planes conducted their last attack on Japanese positions on Wake, and on September 4, 1945, Admiral Sakaibara surrendered Wake Island back to the US.

Today, Wake serves as a trans-Pacific refueling stop for military aircraft and supports Missile Defense Agency test activities. Wake is currently managed by the Pacific Air Force Support Center located at Joint Base Elmendorf-Richardson, Anchorage, Alaska, and falls under 11th Air Force.  (15th Wing)

https://api.dvidshub.net/hls/video/536620.m3u8?api_key=key-55f197190d6a3

A little personal side story … When Pan Am used Midway and Wake as stopping points for flights across the Pacific, my grandmother (Laura Sutherland) was Assistant Head Librarian for the Library of Hawai‘i in charge of the “Extension Department.”

My grandmother took advantage of these flights and expanded the reach of her “Extension Department” by supplying reading material to residents on Midway and Wake, with the cooperation of Pan Am.  Each week, a new supply of books was added to the flights in what is believed to be America’s only Flying Library Service.

Oh, the title to this piece? … Guam, a US Territory, adopted a de facto motto is “Where America’s Day Begins”; but that’s not technically true.  Wake is 1,500-miles further east, right next to and west of the International Date Line. Given that placement with the Dateline, while most in America are experiencing a new day, folks on Wake are already into tomorrow.

“The dawn’s earliest light — the first rays of sun on US soil – shine upon Wake Island. Every morning America wakes up on Wake Island.” The sign on the Wake airstrip terminal building reads “Where America’s Day REALLY begins.” (CBSNews)

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